Patent Application
20060037154
This disclosure relates generally to a method for selectively imparting multiple colors in a pattern configuration to a textile fabric having a multi-level pile or napped surface in which the surface pile or nap contains individual yarns comprised of two or more component yarns or fibers with different shrinkage and dyeing characteristics, and to the resulting multi-colored patterned fabric. In particular, this disclosure relates to a product and process in which the face of a pile or napped fabric is formed from yarns of at least two different types, having different shrinkage characteristics and different dyeing characteristics, and wherein one of the yarns is a textured yarn. The formed fabric is exposed to a shrinkage agent, such as heat, which can be applied uniformly or selectively (i.e., in a pattern). In either case, yarns of one type comprising the pile or nap are preferentially shrunk relative to yarns of the other type(s). Because of differences in dyeing characteristics, the yarns also dye differently when dye is applied to the fabric, which may also be done uniformly or selectively, and which may occur prior to or following the application of the shrinkage agent. By preferentially shrinking yarns of a given type, the height of such yarns is lowered, thereby allowing other yarns to become more exposed and therefore more visually prominent. In the finished product, such visually prominent yarns may have a different color, reflectivity, or other visually distinguishing characteristic as compared with the face yarns that are less exposed. It is contemplated that, where the shrinkage agent and the dye are both applied selectively in a pattern configuration, the different patterns may be in registry, if desired.
For convenience, the following is a brief summary of the Figures that will be referred to below.
As used herein, the following terms shall have the indicated meanings:
“Yarn” shall mean a continuous strand of textile fibers, filaments, or material in a form suitable for knitting, weaving, or otherwise intertwining to form a textile fabric, and especially to form the face yarns of a pile or napped fabric.
“Pile-like yarn” shall mean a single element comprising the face of a pile or napped fabric; a pile-like yarn may be comprised of two or more individual yarns in close physical association; a plurality of such elements collectively form the face of the fabrics contemplated herein (i.e., pile fabrics or napped fabrics). A pile-like yarn can be comprised of a number of fiber filaments commingled or twisted together or a number of filaments laid together, either with or without a degree of twist.
“Pile fabric” shall mean a fabric having a face comprised of pile-like yarns; the term is intended to include pile fabrics and napped fabrics, unless express wording or context indicates otherwise.
“Component yarn(s)” shall refer to the various individual yarns, each having a distinct shrinkage characteristic, that are physically combined (e.g., commingled, collaged, etc.) to form an individual pile-like yarn on the face of the patterned fabrics contemplated herein. As contemplated herein, such individual pile-like yarns will be comprised of at least one relatively low shrinkage yarn and at least one relatively high shrinkage yarn, at least one of which is textured.
“Bi-component pile yarn” shall mean a pile-like yarn comprised of one relatively high shrinkage component yarn and one relatively low shrinkage component yarn. Typically, but not exclusively, the component yarns will be distinguishable in at least one other visually apparent characteristic (e.g., different color, reflectivity, cross-section, etc.).
“Multi-component yarn” shall mean a pile yarn comprised of at least three component yarns, at least one of which is a relatively high shrink yarn and at least one of which is a relatively low shrink yarn. Other component yarns may have intermediate shrinkage characteristics, or may have similar high or low shrinkage characteristics, but be otherwise distinguishable. In either case, such component yarns typically will be distinguishable in at least one other visually apparent characteristic (e.g., different color, reflectivity, dyeability, etc.).
“Aesthetic characteristics”, as that term is applied to yarns, shall refer to those characteristics relating to the appearance, shape (overall or cross-sectional), or configuration of such yarns, including, but not limited to, their reflectivity, color, or capacity for being dyed using appropriate dyes.
“Shrinkage”, as that term is applied to fibers or yarns, shall refer to a lengthwise contraction or shortening of such fibers or yarns, as is associated with boiling water shrinkage or hot air shrinkage, for example. It is also specifically intended to include, without limitation, shortening due to the softening or melting of polymeric fibers or yarns.
“Low shrink yarns” shall refer generally to component yarns that, relative to other component yarns forming the pile-like yarn, exhibit low shrinkage when exposed to a shrinking agent. When the shrinking agent is heat and the yarns are polymeric, low shrink yarns are typically those having a relatively high melting point. Yarns that have been dyed prior to such heat treatment tend to become low shrink yarns, even if, in undyed form, the yarns exhibited significant shrinkage.
“High shrink yarns” shall refer generally to component yarns that, relative to other component yarns forming the pile-like yarn, exhibit high shrinkage when exposed to a shrinking agent. When the shrinking agent is heat and the yarns are polymeric, high shrink yarns are typically those having a relatively low melting point.
“Lengthwise-coupled yarn” shall mean yarn comprised of at least two separate component yarns that are physically associated with each other to the extent that they can be treated as a single yarn in a fabric forming machine to form the face of the pile or napped fabric contemplated herein.
“Collaged yarn” shall mean a lengthwise-coupled yarn in which the component yarns have been physically commingled or tangled along their length to form a bi-component or multi-component yarn.
The method and product that is the subject of this disclosure begins with the formation of a bi- or multi-component yarn that will form the individual pile-like elements on the face of a pile or napped fabric. A characteristic of the development disclosed herein is the use of component yarns containing yarns having significantly different shrinkage characteristics when exposed to similar shrinkage agents. For example, the pile or napped fabric may contain individual pile-like yarns that are comprised of two component yarns (e.g., the pile-like yarn is a bi-component yarn), in which the first such component yarn is of a type that exhibits a first type of shrinkage (e.g., relatively low shrinkage or relatively high melting point characteristics), and the second such component yarn is of a type that exhibits a second type of shrinkage different from the shrinkage of the first component yarn (e.g., moderate or high shrinkage or low melting point characteristics, relative to the first component yarn type). Preferably, at least one of the yarns is textured.
The objective when using a two component yarn is to construct a pile-like yarn which, under the influence of selectively applied streams of heated air or some other means to induce shrinkage of the component fibers (e.g., chemical means, steam, etc.), will cause yarns of the second type to shrink more than yarns of the first type, to a degree that imparts a perceptible visual effect to the face of a fabric containing such pile-like yarns. If the component yarns initially are about the same length, component yarns having the second characteristic will selectively shrink below the level of the component yarns of the first type, thereby exposing more of the latter yarns and causing those yarns to become more observable. If these component yarns of the first type are dyed a different color or are otherwise visually distinguishable (e.g., have increased or decreased reflectivity) from those component yarns of the second type, then the color or other visual effect (e.g., reflectivity) associated with these more observable component yarns of the first type likewise will become more observable. It should be noted that, while the component yarns used in the formation of the pile-like yarns may be either dyed or undyed prior to the fabric formation process, where the fabric is intended to have dyed pile-like yarns, generally at least one of the component yarns is dyed prior to the fabric formation process, and at least one is dyed following such fabric formation process.
It is contemplated that this concept can be applied to pile-like yarns containing more than two component yarn types (i.e., multi-component yarns) in which at least one of the component yarn types has a shrinkage characteristic different from the other component yarn types. For example, if a pile-like yarn comprised of three component yarns, each having about the same length but each having a different shrinkage characteristic, is exposed to an appropriate shrinking agent (e.g., selectively applied heated air streams of the proper temperature), the various component yarns will each shrink to a different degree. If each of the three component yarns is associated (either prior to or following the fabric formation process) with a different color or other visually distinguishing characteristic, a number of different complex visual effects may be generated, depending upon the visual characteristics associated with each of the respective component yarns (e.g., light vs. dark, complementary vs. non-complementary colors, etc.), the angle of the incident light, the angle of the applied heated air streams, the length and pile or nap density (i.e., yarns per substrate unit area) of the pile-like yarns, the direction and uniformity of pile lay, the nature and degree of reflectance associated with the various component yarns (which, in turn, may depend upon the composition, cross-sectional shape, surface smoothness, and color of the component yarns), the manner and extent to which the component yarns are length-wise coupled, and other factors.
It is also contemplated that, where three different types of component yarns are used, two of the component yarn types could have similar shrinkage characteristics, thereby providing for situations in which those yarns comprise a majority component. In such cases, if the minority component yarn type has relatively low shrinkage compared with the other component yarn types, it will provide a somewhat subtle visual contribution to the pile or napped face. Alternatively, if the minority component yarn type has relatively high shrinkage compared with other component yarn types, such shorter minority yarns will tend to recede into the pile or napped face and allow the visual contribution of the longer majority component yarns to dominate.
In similar fashion, fabrics having a pile or nap comprised of four (or more) component yarns can be used, with the resulting visual effects having a potential for a correspondingly higher degree of subtlety and complexity. Accordingly, where the following discussions of techniques and process steps refer to pile-like yarns comprised of bi-component yarns, such discussions generally are also applicable to situations in which the pile-like yarns are comprised of multi-component yarns. As discussed above, in most embodiments, at least one of the component yarns is dyed prior to the fabric formation process.
It is further contemplated that, in order to achieve certain visual effects, yarns of at least-one type may be different in length from other yarn types comprising the pile or nap even prior to the application of a shrinkage agent. For example, component yarns that are longer, but have a greater propensity to shrink, may be made to shrink below the level of shorter component yarns that have a lesser propensity to shrink. If the initially longer yarns have greater reflectivity, the areas in which shrinkage does not occur will exhibit higher luster, shine, or iridescence than the areas in which the higher reflectivity fibers are shorter or partially hidden by the lower reflectivity component yarns that were initially shorter. If, on the other hand, the higher-shrinkage component yarns were already shorter than other, relatively low shrinkage component yarns, the length differences between the two yarn types can be enhanced, causing the higher shrinkage yarns to recede further in the direction of the fabric base, with a corresponding increase in visual prominence of the lower shrinkage yarns and accentuation of the multi-level nature of the fabric.
By careful selection of the length and shrinkage characteristics of the component yarns, it is possible to construct pile or napped fabrics in which the relative length of the component yarns may be controlled, both in areas that are subjected to the application of a shrinkage agent as taught herein, and in areas, if any, in which such shrinkage agent is not applied. In each case, the resulting visual effect generally follows the principle that component yarns that are longer, more reflective, or more densely positioned or represented will dominate the overall appearance of the pile or napped fabric relative to similarly colored, but shorter, less reflective, or more sparsely positioned or represented component fibers.
One example of a process as described herein is diagrammed in
Yarns 1 and 2 may be dyed by any means suitable for the nature of the constituent fibers. For example, yarns comprised of polypropylene, polyester, or nylon fibers may be solution dyed or package dyed, but the use of disperse, cationic, acid, direct, reactive, or VAT dyes is also contemplated, as will be apparent to those skilled in the art, depending upon the composition of the fibers to be used. If polypropylene is used and is intended to carry a color, it is recommended that it be solution dyed for best results.
Yarn 1 and Yarn 2 may be individually or collectively dyed or undyed, but if one or both are undyed, then preferably at least one of the undyed yarn(s) is capable of being dyed using conventional dyeing techniques following the fabric formation step. It should be noted that, in the case of package dyed yarns, such yarns characteristically have little propensity to shrink. Accordingly, it has been found that package dyed yarns are better candidates to serve as Yarn 1 (relatively low shrinkage) rather than as Yarn 2.
Yarn 3, indicated as optional at 10C, depicts a situation in which a multi-component yarn comprised of Yarn 1, Yarn 2, and Yarn 3 is used to form the pile-like face. Yarn 3 may be dyed or undyed. The shrinkage characteristics of Yarn 3 most commonly will be different from either Yarn 1 or Yarn 2, i.e., it may be intermediate between the shrinkage characteristics of Yarns 1 and 2, or it may be even higher than that of Yarn 2. It should be noted that it is also contemplated that Yarn 3 may have a shrinkage characteristic that is substantially similar to either Yarn 1 or Yarn 2, or perhaps even less than that of Yarn 1, depending upon the nature of the visual effect to be achieved when a shrinkage agent is applied to the multi-component pile-like yarn. As suggested above, it is contemplated that additional yarns (e.g., a fourth yarn, a fifth yarn, etc.) of various types and having various shrinkage characteristics may be used to form multi-component yarns from which the pile or napped fabric is constructed. In such cases, the shrinkage characteristics of such additional yarns may be either similar or different from other yarns; the processing steps described herein apply regardless of the number of different component yarns used, except that separate dyeing steps may be necessary (depending upon the desired visual effect) following fabric formation if such yarns are undyed prior to the fabric formation process.
Step 20 of
Following this step, the length-wise coupled bi- or multi-component yarn is used in a conventional pile or napped fabric formation process, indicated at Step 50 of
In one embodiment, the pile fabric may be formed in a double needle bar knitting machine, which forms a fabric “sandwich”, in which the pile face is turned inward and spans opposing backing substrates. It should be noted that if the pile fabric is to be formed on a double needle bar knitting machine, then Yarn 1 and Yarn 2 can be combined by warping Yarn 1 and Yarn 2 individually, on separate beams, and threading an individual warp yarn from each beam through the same needle of the double needle bar knitting machine. This effectively combines the yarns at the same time the pile fabric is being formed and results in a bi-component pile without the need for a separate step to generate the bi-component yarn. Conversely, if the pile or napped fabric is woven, then physical commingling of Yarns 1 and 2 can be achieved by feeding respective warp ends of Yarns 1 and 2 through a common heddle, without the need for a separate step to generate the bi-component yarn. Where appropriate, similar approaches can be used involving multi-component yarns.
Individually optional processes that may be associated with the formation of the fabric having a pile-like face are indicated at Steps 30 and 40—one or the other steps may be used, as necessary, depending upon the processes used in the fabric formation Step 50. If the fabric formation process involves the formation of a “sandwich” fabric, Step 30 indicates a conventional process commonly associated with the manufacture of, for example, double needle bar fabrics, in which the “sandwich” is slit or split in half, parallel to the plane of the fabric. This process step forms two pile fabrics, each having a pile height corresponding to half the distance that separated the opposing backing substrates.
In the event the pile fabric formation process does not involve the formation of a “sandwich” fabric but instead involves the initial formation of a fabric with a loop pile face, optional Step 40 represents a process in which the loops are cut, thereby resulting in a fabric having a cut loop pile face, in which individual component yarns presumably are less constrained with respect to shrinkage. This can be achieved by napping, shearing, or any other process that effectively cuts the loops. If a loop pile fabric is to be used without such loop-cutting step, as shown in
As indicated at Step 60 of
In one preferred embodiment, the shrinkage agent is heated air that is applied to the surface of the fabric. Although the remaining description herein is directed to the selective application of such heated air, it is contemplated that other shrinkage agents, such as application of a laser (see below), steam, or a liquid shrinkage agent, can be used if desired, so long as the effect is to induce relative shrinkage to one set of yarns (e.g., Yarn 2) without inducing the same linear shrinkage to a second set of yarns (e.g., Yarn 1). As discussed elsewhere, the application of the shrinkage agent of choice may be done uniformly if a uniform effect is desired, but, perhaps preferably in most applications, may be done selectively, in accordance with pattern information, either to establish a pattern on the fabric or to enhance an existing pattern (e.g., a dyed pattern) by inducing shrinkage of component yarns in registry with selected elements of such existing pattern.
Where heated air streams are used, the temperature of the individually controllable streams of air, as they contact the surface of the fabric, is sufficient to cause localized shrinkage or melting of the high shrinkage or low melting point component yarns comprising the pile-like surface, and to cause significantly less shrinkage to other component yarns comprising the pile-like surface. This not only reduces the visual contribution of the shrunken component yarns in those treated areas, but, because the length of the component yarns have been reduced in such areas, the backing substrate may be less hidden by the pile-like surface, and may contribute to the overall visual effect of the fabric in those areas, depending upon the overall construction of the fabric. By adjusting the temperature of the heated air streams, it is possible to adjust correspondingly the degree to which the component yarns are subjected to shrinkage or melting—in general, higher temperatures, within a reasonable range, providing increased shrinkage or melting. Generally, melting points for the low shrinkage/high melting point component yarns will lie within the range of about 460° F. to about 750° F, and preferably between about 480° F. and about 500° F, while melting points for the high shrinkage/low melting point component yarns will lie within the range of about 280° F. to about 340° F, and preferably between about 300° F. and about 320° F.
In one embodiment, the pile-like face of the fabric, prior to the application of the heated air streams, will have uniform pile lay and a relatively uniform color and appearance—the product of the combination of the colors of Yarn 1 and Yarn 2 as they are distributed over the fabric surface during the fabric formation process. The heated air streams are applied selectively, in a pattern configuration, over the surface of the fabric. The effect is to induce selective shrinkage in the pattern areas of one type of component yarn (e.g., the “high shrinkage” Yarn 2), thereby making the visual contribution of another type of component yarn that is not shrunken to the same degree (e.g., Yarn 1) more visually prominent. Because Yarn 1 will now have more visual exposure, its visual characteristics such as color or reflectivity will tend to influence the overall appearance of the pile-like surface in those pattern areas. It is also contemplated that the heated air streams (or other shrinkage agent of choice) may be applied uniformly to the otherwise unpatterned pile-like surface, thereby generating a color formed primarily by the visual differences between component yarns that have been selectively shrunken and those that have not.
Step 70 of
Alternatively, it is contemplated that the pile-like surface can be selectively dyed in a pattern configuration following—or prior to—the selective application of the heated air streams. In the latter case, it is recommended that such selective dyeing be carried out without causing appreciable shrinkage of the selectively dyed yarns (or at least shrinkage that is visually similar to that brought about by the selective application of the selected shrinkage agent, e.g., heated air streams). This will then provide the opportunity to apply the heated air streams (or other shrinkage agent of choice) to the fabric in registration with certain elements of the dyed pattern, thereby creating a pattern in which the appearance of any given area within the pattern will depend not only upon the color of the surface as pattern dyed, but also upon the degree to which the various component yarns comprising the pile-like surface in that area have been selectively shrunken. Such selective dyeing may be achieved by any appropriate conventional means, such as screen printing or through the use of a metered jet patterning device such as described in commonly-assigned U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,984,169, 5,128,876, 5,136,520, 5,140,686, 5,142,481, 5,195,043, and 5,208,592, the teachings of which are hereby. incorporated by reference.
As suggested by the discussion above and depicted in
In
In
In
In
The nature of the visual effects obtained using the processes described above is dependent upon a variety of factors, including, importantly, the color of the component yarns, the configuration of the yarns in the tuft, the method of applying the shrinkage agent (e.g., if heated air, whether such air is applied to the face or back of the fabric, or both), and the relative length of the component yarns both before and after the application of a shrinkage agent. It has been found that if one or more of the component yarn types exhibit a significantly higher degree of light reflectivity than other component yarns (as, for example, flat or non-textured yarns), and those yarns are not obscured by other, less light reflective yarns, then these higher reflectivity yarns can provide a distinct and aesthetically pleasing iridescence that changes with pile lay and angle of observation.
Component yarns of the following exemplary types have been found to be suited to the development of pile or napped fabrics having an iridescent effect, although other component yarn types will be apparent to those skilled in the art. In each case, Yarn 1 represents a textured, relatively low shrinkage component yarn and Yarn 2 represents a component yarn capable of relatively moderate or high shrinkage and low or no crimp. Furthermore, it is preferred that either Yarn 1 or Yarn 2 be capable of being dyed following the fabric formation step, while the other of Yarn 1 or Yarn 2 is incapable of accepting the dyes to be used to dye the formed fabric. Excellent results have been achieved by using, as a Yarn 1, a piece-dyeable yarn. Examples of suitable candidate yarns are as follows:
Type 1 Yarns (relatively low shrinkage): (a) heat set nylon (preferably, textured) or heat set polyester (flat or textured), or (b) flat or spun cellulosic fiber (e.g., cupramonium rayon, rayon, acetate, cotton).
Type 2 Yarns (relatively moderate or high shrinkage): (a) flat polypropylene, (b) high-shrink nylon (preferably, flat) or polyester (preferably, flat).
If pile or napped fabrics having a pile-like face constructed of multi-component yarns are desired, combinations of three or more yarns from the above list can be used, as well as others that will be readily apparent to those skilled in the art. The effects obtained will depend upon the same general factors involved in the bi-component case, and are likely to depend heavily upon the relative ratio, distribution, and length of the various component yarns used.
The following are selected representative examples of the processes disclosed herein. Unless otherwise specified, the individual process steps are described briefly in the following table. As will be evident, some Steps, even if not noted as “Optional,” may not be used in each Example. Note that fabric dyeing can occur either prior to or following the application of the shrinkage agent, or both.
The abbreviations “CPI” and “WPI” mean, respectively, courses per inch and wales per inch. Unless otherwise specified, all length dimensions are in inches, and all temperature readings are in ° F. and are approximate.
Yarn 1: 150/36 flame red solution dyed flat polypropylene (round cross-section; nominal self-entanglement)
Yarn 2: 1/150/50 dark pewter package dyed textured polyester (octolobal cross-section; high self-entanglement).
Note: These yarns were combined, in accordance with the process described below, to form a pile fabric having pile tufts comprised of 2-ply Solution Dyed Polypropylene and 1-ply Textured Package Dyed Polyester.
Yarn
Entanglement: Collage, via processing on an RPR Collaging Machine
Warp: 1070 ends of collaged polypropylene/textured polyester on 1 Beam (Bar 3)
Fabric Formation: Knit: 32 GG Double Needle Bar Knit Machine
Slit: CPI (in): 29.0, CPI (out): 28.0, WPI (in): 33.0, WPI (out): 33.0, Width (in): 65.5″, Width (out): 65.00″
Brush/Heatset: CPI (in): 28.0, WPI (in): 33.0, Width (in): 65
The resulting fabric at this stage of processing is depicted in
Selective Application of Shrinkage Agent: Heated air streams (i.e., Millitex®) on fabric face.
RESULTS: Depicted in
The same starting yarns were used as in Example 1, but they were processed to form a pile fabric having pile tufts comprised of 2-ply Textured Package Dyed Polyester and 1-ply Solution Dyed Polypropylene, i.e., textured polyester yarns were package dyed and collaged with flat polypropylene yarns and yielded a streak-free fabric base. All processing steps were similar to those listed in Example 1, except the Millitex® treatment values. Because the relative proportion of lower melting point polypropylene to higher melting point polyester in the pile face is a factor in determining how much heat is required to create the patterns, the Millitex® treatment values were as follows:
Results were essentially as recited in Example 1, except there were no objectionable streaks.
The same starting yarns were used as in Example 1, but they were processed to form a pile fabric having pile tufts comprised of 2-ply Textured Package Dyed Polyester and 1-ply Cleartint® Solution Dyed Polypropylene (Cleartint® is a colorless polymeric colorant marketed by Milliken & Company, Spartanburg, S.C.). All processing steps were similar to those listed in Example 1, except the Millitex® treatment used the following process values:
Results were essentially as in Example 2.
Yarn 1: 150/72 Crimson Solution Dyed Polypropylene (delta cross-section); nominal entanglement
Yarn 2: (255)-100 56T POY Polyester (round cross-section), nominal entanglement, which was processed on an AFK-Barmag False Twist Texturing Machine by drawing at a 1.70 draw ratio across a contact heater maintained at 330° F. to yield a 1/150/100 56T Polyester, which was combined in a commingling jet at the end of the process with the 150/72 Crimson Polypropylene (Polypropylene bypassed texturing).
Yarn 3: (175)-150/48 full dull round warp drawn Polyester (warp made with a 1.25 cold draw ratio, followed by a 0.91 hot overfeed at 392° F. on a draw warper).
Warp: Yarns 1+2 (textured polypropylene/polyester) on 1 beam (Bar 3); Yarn 3 on 1 beam (Bar 4) at 1120 ends/beam
Fabric Formation: Knit on 32 GG Double Needle Bar Knit Machine
Runner Lengths: Bar 1/6: 125.40″, Bar 2/5: 85.5″, Bar 3/4: 320.00″
Slit: CPI (in): 28.0, CPI (out): 27.0, WPI (in): 33.0, WPI (out): 33.0, Width (in): 68.0″, Width (out): 67.5″
Brush Heatset: CPI (in): 27.0, CPI (out): 26.0, WPI (in): 33.0, WPI (out): 34.0, Width (in): 67.5″, Width (out): 65.5″
Brush Settings: No.1: 7.1 (UP), No.2: 1.2 (DOWN), No. 3: 7.1 (UP)
The resulting fabric at this stage of processing is depicted in
Selective Application of Shrinkage Agent: Heated air streams (i.e., Millitex®) on the fabric face
Dye: Dyed a light Beige color (using 1/2 the weight of the fabric to calculate the dye concentrations since the polypropylene will not accept disperse dyes)
Dry: Tumble Dried
RESULTS: As shown in
Yarn 1: a 150/72 Solution Dye (Crimson Red) Polypropylene (Doubled/non-commingled) yarn, (Delta Cross-section) high degree of texturing/self-entanglement
Yarn 2: a 1/150/50 242T Package Dyed (Dark Pewter) textured Polyester yarn (octolobal cross-section) high degree of texturing/post-entanglement (Milliken & Co. Fabric Style: CDY603)
Yarn entanglement
(Yarn 1/Yarn 2): None
Warp: 1540 ends of Polypropylene on 1 Beam (Bar 3)+1540 ends of Polyester on 1 Beam (Bar 4)
Fabric Formation: Knit—44 GG Double Needle Bar Knit Machine
Slit: CPI (in): 36.0, CPI (out): 33.0, WPI (in): 22.5, WPI (out): 23.0 in.,
Brush/Heatset: CPI (in): 33.0, CPI (out): 33.0, WPI (in): 23.0, WPI (out): 22.5, Width (in): 67.5″, Width (out): 65.8″
The resulting fabric of this stage of processing is depicted in
Selective Application of Shrinkage Agent: Heated air streams (i.e., Millitex®) on the fabric face
RESULTS: As shown in
Yarn 1: 150/36 Forest Green Solution Dyed Polypropylene (delta cross-section) (Doubled/non-commingled); (high entanglement)
Yarn 2: 1/150/36 Heatset Textured Polyester (round cross-section; high degree of self-entanglement; low shrinkage: 3% boiling water shrinkage)
Yarn Entanglement: None
Warp: 1540 ends of Polypropylene on 1 Beam (Bar 3); 1540 ends of Polyester on 1 Beam (Bar 4)
Fabric Formation: Knit: 44 GG Double Needle Bar Knit Machine
Runner Lengths: Bar 1/6: 91.10″, Bar 2/5: 74.10″, Bar 3/4: 313.00″
Slit: CPI (in): 37.5, CPI (out): 34.0, WPI (in): 22.5, WPI (out): 22.5, Width (in): 68.5″, Width (out): 67.00″
Sandwich Heatset: CPI (in): 36.0, CPI (out): 37.0, WPI (in): 22.5, WPI (out): 25.0, Width (in): 68.00″, Width (out): 65.00″
Slit: CPI (in): 37.5, CPI (out): 34.0, WPI (in): 22.5, WPI (out): 22.5, Width (in): 68.5″, Width (out): 67.00″
The resulting fabric at this stage of processing is depicted in
Selective Application of Shrinkage Agent: Heated air streams (i.e., Millitex®) on the fabric face
Dye: Dyed a Dark Shade (Royal Blue) and a Light Shade (Tan) (using 1/2 the weight of fabric to calculate dye concentration because disperse dye will not dye polypropylene.
RESULTS: As shown in
The same starting yarns and fabric preparation were used as in Example 6, except that the heated air streams were directed from the back of the fabric, rather than from the front.
Selective Application of Shrinkage Agent: Heated air streams (i.e., Millitex®) from the back of the fabric
RESULTS: As shown in
The same starting yarns and fabric preparation were used as in Example 4, except that the heated air streams were directed to both the face and the back of the fabric.
Selective Application of Shrinkage Agent: Heated air streams (i.e., Millitex®), applied to front and back of the fabric
RESULTS: As shown in
Yarn 1: 150/72 Cleartint® Orange Solution Dyed Polypropylene (delta cross-section); high entanglement
Yarn 2: 1/150/50 Dk. Pewter Package Dyed Polyester (octolobal cross-section); high entanglement
Yarn Entanglement: Collaged/Commingled on RPR Collaging Machine
Fabric Formation: Knit using 20 GG Monarch Circular Knitting Machine, forming a Low Loop to be processed uncut, followed by slitting to open the tubular circular knit to form a flat pile fabric. The resulting fabric at this stage of processing is depicted in
Tenter: Temperature: 300° F.
RESULTS: As shown in
Yarn 1: 150/40 Bright Acetate (Round cross-section; doubled but not commingled)
Yarn 2: 1/250/72 BCF Orange Cleartint Solution Dyed Polypropylene (delta cross-section); nominal entanglement
Warp: 1120 ends warped on each beam
Knit: 32 GG Double Needle Bar Knit Machine
Runner Lengths: Bar 1/6: 125.40″, Bar 2/5: 85.50″, Bar 3: 300.00″, Bar 4: 300.00″
Slit: CPI (in): 29.0, CPI (out): 29.0, WPI (in): 33.0, WPI (out): 33.0, Width (in): 68.00″, Width (out): 67.50″
Greige Brush Heatset: CPI (in): 29.0, CPI (out): 30.0, WPI (in): 33.0, WPI (out): 34.0, Width (in): 67.50″, Width (out): 64″
Brush Settings: #1: 7.1 (UP)
Dyed: 266° F. for 30 minutes, using disperse dyes, with a rate of temperature rise of 2° F./min.
Selective Application of Shrinkage: Heated air (i.e., Millitex®) on fabric face
Results: The polypropylene yarns receded into the ground due to their lower melting point, while the acetate fibers remained in the pile to achieve a two-color pattern effect resembling the visual effect achieved with other thermoplastic fibers (e.g., polyester and nylon).
The following is a description of one means, disclosed in the prior art, by which pattern-wise selective shrinkage of the kind discussed above may be imparted to various pile fabrics through the use of a plurality of individually controlled heated air streams.
As seen, the apparatus includes a main support frame including end frame support members, one of which 110 is illustrated in
As shown, textile fabric 10 from supply roll 118 passes over an idler roll 136 and is fed by a pair of driven rolls 134, 132 to a main driven textile fabric support roll 126 with the textile fabric 10 between drive roll 132 and textile fabric support roll 126 being overfed and slack, with a negative tension within a range of between two and twenty percent and within a preferred range of between two and twelve percent. The amount of negative tension or overfeed depends on the construction, fiber type, and other factors related to the textile fabric 10. The overfeed or negative tension must stop before the point at which puckering of the textile fabric 10 occurs. The surface of the textile fabric 10 passes closely adjacent to the heated fluid discharge outlet of an elongate fluid distributing manifold assembly 130 of treating unit 116. The treated textile fabric 4 thereafter passes over a series of driven guide rolls 122, 124 and an idler roll 120 to a take-up roll 114 for collection.
As illustrated in
Typically, for patterning textile fabrics, such as pile fabrics containing thermoplastic yarns, the heaters are employed to heat air exiting the heaters and entering the manifold assembly to a uniform temperature. The preferred operating temperature for any given textile fabric depends upon many factors, including the components of the textile fabric, the desired amount of linear shrinkage or melting effect, the speed of transport of the textile fabric, the pressure of the heated pressurized gas, the tension of the textile fabric, the proximity of the textile fabric to the treating manifold, and other factors. For a needle punched, textile fabric where the first fiber is polyester and the second fiber is polypropylene, the temperature can range between 300° Fahrenheit to 1,200° Fahrenheit with a more practical operating range of 375° Fahrenheit to 800° Fahrenheit and a preferred optimal range of 450° Fahrenheit to 500° Fahrenheit. This preferred optimal range will maximize the contrast between the color of the first, higher melting point fibers and the blend of higher and lower melting point fibers.
The heated fluid distributing manifold assembly 130 is disposed across the full width of the path of movement of the textile fabric and closely adjacent to the surface to be treated. Although the length of the manifold assembly 130 may vary, typically in the treatment of textile fabric materials, the length of the manifold assembly may be 76 inches or more to accommodate textile fabrics of up to about 72 inches in width.
Details of the heated fluid distributing manifold assembly 130 may be best described by reference to
As best seen in
The manifold housings 154, 156 are constructed and arranged so that the flow path of gas through the first housing 154 is generally at a right angle to the discharge axes of the gas stream outlets of the second manifold housing 156.
As best seen in
Baffle plate 192 serves to define a gas receiving chamber in the compartment 181 having side openings or slots 194 to direct the incoming heated air from the bank of heaters in a generally reversing path of flow through compartment 181. Disposed above channel-shaped baffle plate 192 is compartment 181 and between the fluid inlet openings 183 and fluid outlet passageways 186 is an elongate filter member 200 which is a generally J-shaped plate, with a filter screen disposed thereabout.
As seen in
Second manifold housing 156 is provided with a plurality of spaced gas inlet openings 218 (
The continuous slit 215 of the second manifold housing 156 which directs a stream of air into the surface of textile fabric 10 is provided with tubes 226 which communicate at a right angle to the discharge axis of continuous slit 215 to introduce pressurized cool air, i.e., air having a temperature substantially below that of the heated air in third gas receiving compartment 212, at the heated gas discharge outlet 216 to deflect selectively the flow of heated air through the continuous slit 215 in accordance with pattern control information. Air passing through the tubes 226 may be cooled by a water jacket which is provided with cooling water from a suitable source, not shown, although such cooling is not required.
As seen in
The foregoing details of the construction and operation of the manifold assembly 130 of the gas treating apparatus are the subject matter of commonly assigned U.S. Pat. No. 4,471,514 issued on Sep. 18, 1984 and U.S. Pat. No. 5,035,031 issued on May 18, 1993. The disclosures thereof are included herein by reference as if fully set forth herein.
Each cool air fluid tube 226 is positioned at approximately a right angle to the plane defined by slit 215 to deflect heated pressurized air away from the surface of the moving textile fabric 10 (
This configuration of tubes 226 provides sufficient volume of air, in combination with that from the continuous slit 215, to preheat the textile fabric 10 to a temperature preferably below that which causes permanent thermal modification.
It should be noted that, due to the insulation 108 generally surrounding manifold 154, preheating is not believed to be the result of heat radiation from the manifold, but is rather the result of the exposure of textile fabric 10 to the heated air issuing from continuous slit 215, as that air is diverted by the relatively cool air issuing from tubes 226. The heated air used for this purpose is air that has been diverted, in accordance with patterning instructions, after issuing from continuous slit 215, i.e., this air would be diverted whether or not preheating was desired. Therefore, preheating of the textile fabric is achieved as an integral part of, and is inseparable from, the patterning process, and requires no additional or separate heated air source. By so doing, not only is a separate preheating step and its attendant complexity unnecessary, but it is believed a separate preheating step would be incapable of imparting heat of sufficient intensity and directivity to maintain the textile fabric 10 at an effective preheated temperature at the instant the heated patterning air issuing from continuous slit 215 contacts the textile fabric, as shown in
This preheating may cause additional thermal modification during the patterning step. As can be seen in connection with
Additional information relating to the operation of such a pressurized, heated gas apparatus, including more detailed description of patterning and control functions, can be found in the following commonly-assigned issued U.S. Patents, the content of which are expressed incorporated by reference herein: U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,148,583 4,393,562 4,364,156, and 4,418,451.
In the alternative, another means of achieving the selective linear shrinking or melting of certain pile yarns is to subject the pile yarns to the heat of a laser. Referring now to
Laser unit 320 is preferable a 10.6 micron wavelength, eighty watt, carbon dioxide laser, although any of a wide variety of lasers will suffice. One typical laser of this type is manufactured by Laser Machining, Inc., located at 500 Laser Drive, MS 628, Industrial Park, Somerset, Wis. 54025. Although not specifically limited thereto, the preferred speed range for moving the textile fabric 10 is one hundred to two hundred inches per minute.
Other methods of selectively applying heat for selective shrinkage or melting include an infrared heater tube, microwaves, or other appropriate means of selectively applying heat by means of either convection or radiation.
As this invention may be embodied in several forms without departing from the spirit or essential character thereof, the embodiments presented herein are intended to be illustrative and not descriptive. The scope of the invention is intended to be defined by the following appended claims, rather than any descriptive matter hereinabove, and all embodiments of the invention which fall within the meaning and range of equivalency of such claims are, therefore, intended to be embraced by such claims.
