Biodegradable products and cosmetics.
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This invention is a makeup container or “empty” made from molded fiber (1), the base of the container (3) transitions via rounded corners (7) into drafted walls (4) that terminate in an outward-facing lip (5). The empty may be a single compartment (
Molded fiber was selected for this product due to its low environmental impact and superior adaptability. Its adaptability allows it to be engineered into shapes and structures that maximize the strength of the container, even though molded fiber is a very thin packaging material. Crucially, molded fiber is highly resilient, so it does not permanently deform or crack under the pressure conditions necessary for cosmetic powder compaction. It is commonly believed and asserted in the cosmetic industry that high rigidity and resilience (unless compensated by wall thickness) are both necessary properties of an empty.
However, the claimed invention defies this widespread industry belief. Despite molded fiber possessing a minimum degree of rigidity, the fiber’s extreme resilience allows it to withstand the compaction process without damage. This unexpected result of molded fiber’s resilience allows the molded fiber to make an effective cosmetic pan. Among the different types of molded fiber materials, thermoformed molded fiber, especially, is the most effective material for cosmetic pans due to its high strength, capability of precise structural features, low draft angle requirements, and minimal part volume constraints.
Cellulosic fiber is preferred because of its superior structural integrity. Natural sources of cellulosic fiber are preferred including but not limited to bagasse, bamboo fiber, wood fiber, coconut fiber, or wood fiber. These starting materials are obtainable from the waste of agro-industrial processes, decreasing the environmental cost of procurement. It is very important that any source of fiber be highly pure since chemical transfer from the fiber to the cosmetic via the binding agent is possible. The inclusion of any detectable contaminants not approved for cosmetic use by the FDA constitutes a potential hazard to the consumer.
Molded Fiber pans are more susceptible to forces causing flexion of their walls (4) than their metal counterparts. In extreme cases, this can cause cracking, chipping, or expulsion of the cosmetic powder from the pan (loss of pan integrity). For this reason, previous cosmetic companies have actively avoided using molded fibers in pans. We found that this problem is countered by texturing the interior surface of the molded fiber (
In addition to increasing surface friction between empty and pellet, the integrity of the pan is further improved by the interaction of the molded fiber empty with the binding agent included in the powder mix. Because the molded fiber is made from interwoven strands of cellulose, it is porous. Surprisingly, this property improves the integrity of the pan by allowing the binding agent to permeate the layers of the cellulosic fiber during compaction. This permeation-based strength is another unexpected reason molded fiber empty’s are able to hold cosmetic powders despite the cosmetic industry dismissal of molded fiber’s feasibility in making cosmetic pans.
This creates a three-phase model for superior adhesion of the pellet within the pan. The outer phase includes only molded fiber, allowing it to maintain its rigidity and clean feel. The second phase is constituted by molded fiber permeated with the binding agent. Their interaction forms a thin liquid-solid colloidal matrix that better maintains the dispersion forces between the cellulosic fibers of the empty and the carbon or silicone chains of the binding agent. The binding agent in the pellet itself (third phase) interacts with the binding agent in the second phase via dispersion forces to chemically bind the pellet to the empty. Importantly, this model makes no use of toxic adhesives, relying on the same binding agents employed in typical pressed powder manufacture.
The ideal binding agent mixture includes a high percentage of low-viscosity molecules that are able to permeate the molded fiber. Some such molecules include various myristic and palmitic acid derivatives, the 250-mer of polyisobutene, or a low-viscosity dimethicone. Natural oils such as jojoba oil or sunflower oil are also effective. Waxes and sterols, which naturally occur in many oils, are also desirable in binding agents, since their active groups can increase intermolecular cohesion within the pan. If a cosmetic formulation requires a low concentration of binding agent or one that has an unsuitably high viscosity, a “priming” step may be included. This step involves lightly spraying the inside of the empty with a binding agent prior to compaction.
Despite the remarkable benefits molded fiber’s permeability has for pan integrity, it also presents a problem for manufacturing due to unwanted staining of the product. The fibers naturally trap the highly pigmented cosmetic powder, producing a staining effect if the powder comes in contact with an unintended area of the cup. This requires the formulation of custom molds and handling protocols to maintain product quality.
Increasing the affinity of the powder for the molded fiber empty compensates for the manufacturing limitation of molded fiber requiring non-zero draft angles. Draft angles are required in molded fiber production, though thermoformed molded fiber technology is able to achieve low single-digit angles in some cases. Optimizing draft angles for each design proved crucial since low draft angles stabilize the pan against lateral forces without compromising the makeup pellet’s affinity for the empty. Although draft angles as high as 30 degrees were found to form stable pans under limited conditions, minimal angles, ranging from 0-5 degrees, were preferred. These minimal draft angles are achievable with thermoformed molded fiber, which was a major factor in its selection for this invention.
The structure of the invention was further stabilized by rounding all corners of the pan (7). The minimum bend radius that maintained the strength of the bend was selected. The bend at the base was selected from a range of 0.1-3 mm, in which 3 mm also represents half the height of the cup. Minimizing bends allowed the structural features to mesh more closely. This was especially crucial for the walls of the container (4), because of their role in maintaining pan integrity. Furthermore, the surface area of both the base (3) and walls (4) were kept low to minimize the risk of flexion of those faces. High area surfaces were strengthened by implementing grooves (8) into its face (
The lip (5) is necessary to maintain structural integrity and allow incorporation into a makeup palette or compact. This important feature is critical for lowering the rigidity requirement of the empty. Molded fiber is much more able to withstand forces perpendicular to its face. However, forces parallel to the face of molded fiber can cause it to buckle. By introducing the lip, no forces are applied to the edge of the molded fiber, which is its weakest point (
The most ideal form of the invention is a hexagonal shape (1a), which minimizes the surface area of each of the cup walls without sacrificing storage efficiency. However, a hexagonal shape is not the only form molded fiber can take to provide sufficient rigidity for a pressed-powder cosmetic cup. Further testing has shown that other geometric shapes like circles (1b), ovals, squares (1c), rectangles, and triangles are sufficiently strong to serve as cosmetic cups for this inventions’ purposes. However, supplementing these shapes with grooves (8) or other divots to break up high-area surfaces is recommended to maintain the strength of the pan. Pans with multiple subdivided compartments (
No federal-sponsored research or development was involved in this invention.