New heather yarns having pleasing aesthetics

Abstract

Flat heather polyester yarns that provide soft pleasing fabrics that can easily be brushed (or napped) to enhance their aesthetics, on account of their unusually low tenacity, that consist essentially of cationic dyeable polyester filaments with homopolymer filaments, and corresponding spin-oriented feed yarns that may be processed into such flat yarns by draw-warping.

Description

DESCRIPTION

TECHNICAL FIELD OF THE INVENTION

This invention relates to new heather (mixed filament) polyester Yarns having pleasing aesthetics, and is more particularly concerned with new mixed filament flat yarns that consist essentially of cationic dyeable polyester filaments mixed with homopolymer filaments, and that provide soft pleasing fabrics whose aesthetics can be further improved by napping, and to feed yarns containing such cationic dyeable polyester mixed with homopolymer spin-oriented filaments for processing into such new flat yarns by draw-warping.

BACKGROUND

Synthetic polyester filaments of poly(ethylene terephthalate) were suggested some fifty years ago by Whinfield and Dickson, U.S. Pat. No. 2,465,319, and have been produced commercially for some forty years, and have for many years been the most widely-used and manufactured synthetic polymer filaments, because of their advantageous properties. Currently, polyester textile yarns are used for many widely-differing articles of apparel requiring polyester yarns in several different forms, and correspondingly manufactured by different processing techniques. Broadly speaking, there are two main categories of polyester apparel yarns, namely spun yarns (from polyester staple fiber, with which the present invention is not concerned) and multifilament (continuous filament) yarns which, themselves, again comprise two main categories, i.e., textured yarns (whose filaments are crimped, usually by false-twisting, with which the present invention is not concerned) and flat (i.e., untextured) yarns. The present invention is concerned with flat multifilament polyester yarns.

Flat yarns are used in several different types of fabrics, e.g., in satins, which may be made by knitting. As was already explained some years ago by Knox, in U.S. Pat. No. 4,156,071, although the high strength of polyester filaments may be of advantage in many fabric applications, there are also certain applications for which it had previously been preferred to use yarns and filaments of lower modulus, such as cellulose acetate, in preference over conventional drawn polyester filament yarns. In other words, the high strength of conventional polyester filaments and yarns, that can be so advantageous for certain in end-uses, may have been a disadvantage for other specific end-uses.

Although many polyester polymers (including copolymers) have been suggested, the most widely manufactured and used polyester hitherto has been poly(ethylene terephthalate), which is often referred to as homopolymer. Homopolymer has generally been preferred over copolymers because of its lower cost, and also because its properties have been entirely adequate, or even preferred, for most end-uses. Homopolymer is often referred to as 2G-T. Poly[ethylene terephthalate/5-sodium-sulfo-isophthalate] copolyester has, however, also been manufactured and used commercially in considerable quantities for some thirty years, especially for staple, and such copolyester filaments and yarns were first suggested by Griffing and Remington in U.S. Pat. No. 3,018,272. A very desirable feature of this copolyester is its affinity for cationic dyes. Commercially, such copolyester, used for making continuous filaments as well as staple fibers, has contained about 2 mole % of the ethylene 5-sodium-sulfo-isophthalate repeat units, and such copolyester has often been referred to as 2G-T/SSI. An example of a prior suggestion for using spin-oriented multilobal filaments of this copolyester as a draw-texturing feed yarn is in Example VI of Duncan and Scrivener, U.S. Pat. No. 4,041,689.

Filaments of such 2G-T/SSI have also been melt-spun with 2G-T (homopolymer) filaments (referred to as cospinning) to make cospun heather yarns that can be differentially-dyed to give interesting mixed-color appearance and effects, as suggested by Reese in U.S. Pat. No. 3,593,513 and Cemel et al. in U.S. Pat. No 4,233,363. The present invention concerns new polyester heather yarns of these cationic dyeable copolymer filaments, sometimes referred to as (2G-T/SSI), mixed with the homopolymer filaments, sometimes referred to as 2G-T.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention provides, in one aspect, a flat multifilament interlaced textile yarn consisting essentially of approximately equal quantities of poly(ethylene terephthalate) filaments and of poly[ethylene terephthalate/5-sodium-sulfo-isophthalate copolyester filaments containing about 2 mole % of ethylene 5-sodium-sulfo-isophthalate repeat units, being of denier about 40 to about 150, boil-off shrinkage about 3 to about 12% and preferably about 3 to about 7%, and especially about 5 to about 7%, and preferably a dry heat shrinkage, measured at 160.degree. C., of about 4 to about 25%, and wherein the said copolyester filaments are of relatively low tenacity, about 2.7 to about 5 grams per denier, and elongation to break about 15 to about 50%, preferably about 20 to about 40%, and preferably of low modulus, as indicated. These new yarns have been knitted into fabrics having very pleasing aesthetics, especially satin fabrics, having a pleasing softness, and have proved remarkedly easy to nap (to improve their aesthetics, e.g , softness). It is believed that this advantageous property is a result of component filaments having unusually low filament strength, combined with low elongation, which is believed to be exceptional in contrast to commercially-available polyester filaments in flat textile yarns in current commercial use. For this reason, it is expected that yarns having relatively low denier per filament (dpf) below about 5 dpf will be especially useful, and particularly yarns of about 1.5 to about 3 dpf. Preferably, such flat yarns of the invention are prepared to have good uniformity, which can be indicated as a low standard deviation for the boil-off shrinkage (preferably less than about 1%, and especially less than about 0.25%) in contrast with prior flat heather yarns that have been available commercially, unless special measures are taken to improve this uniformity, which increases the cost.

These new flat yarns may be conveniently and advantageously prepared by draw-warping spin-oriented cospun copolyester and homopolymer filaments of high shrinkage, preferably about 40% or more, and high elongation, preferably about 80 to 180%, prepared by high speed spinning at speeds of the order of 3,000 yards per minute.

Accordingly, in another aspect of the invention, there is also provided an interlaced multifilament draw-warping feed yarn consisting essentially of approximately equal quantities of poly(ethylene terephthalate) filaments and of poly[ethylene terephthalate/5-sodium-sulfo-isophthalate] copolyester filaments containing about 2 mole % of ethylene 5-sodium-sulfo-isophthalate repeat units, being of denier about 70 to about 260, having an average interlace level of about 5 to about 10 RPC, and preferably less than about 7.5 RPC, and being provided with a finish that is stable enough to persist on such yarn after draw-warping in sufficient quantity and in such condition as to provide finish to enhance knitting performance. Different cospun feed yarns have been proposed for the entirely different objective of draw-texturing, but essentially similar individual spin-oriented filaments are believed to be suitable for inclusion in both of these two different feed yarns. However, contrary to the preference for making DTFY, it is preferred to spin the 2G-T/SSI filaments for the feed yarns according to the invention at withdrawal speeds of less than about 3000 ypm, and especially to make feed yarns of lower dpf to provide warp-drawn yarns of low dpf within the ranges indicated herein.

There is also provided a process for preparing a flat multifilament cospun interlaced textile yarn as described above by first forming such draw-warping feed yarn by high-speed spinning to form spin-oriented cospun yarn of filaments of high shrinkage, at least about 40%, and elongation about 80% to about 180%, and then draw-warping the feed yarn to reduce the elongation and the shrinkage to the desired amounts.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

Once the concept and advantages of the new yarns of the present invention have been suggested, many of the details of preparation and of possible variations will be readily apparent to one skilled in this art. The preparation of homopolymer and copolyester (2G-T/SSI) polymers for making synthetic polymer filaments has already been described in the art, including the literature referred to herein, and literature referred to therein. Preferably, the filaments should be melt-spun by a continuous process, whereby the polymers are prepared continuously and spun into filaments without solidification and remelting, because such continuous process improves the uniformity of the resulting filaments and yarns, and this is of great importance in subsequent processing and for the customers. There has also been much disclosure since the early 1970's of the preparation of spin-oriented polyester filaments by melt-spinning at high withdrawal speeds on the order of about 3,000 ypm or more. For example, this was first suggested by Petrille, U.S. Pat. No. 3,771,307 and by Piazza and Reese, U.S. Pat. No. 3,772,872, to prepare draw-texturing feed yarns. As explained the use as draw-texturing feed yarns is entirely different from the preparation of flat yarns, which are not textured, and for which end-uses a severe mechanical crimp in the filaments is generally undesired. Furthermore, as explained in copending application Ser. No. 034,429, now abandoned filed by Butler and Sivils, although large quantities of homopolymer DTFY have been manufactured and draw-textured, hitherto 2G-T/SSI spin-oriented filaments have not been so satisfactory as DTFY, so that the manufacture and use of spin-oriented yarns consisting essentially of 2G-T/SSI filaments has been very much smaller than of homopolymer, despite the advantage of cationic-dyeability. Nevertheless, so far as the substrate spin-oriented filaments are concerned, the preparation of spin-oriented polyester filaments has long been known and practiced commercially. For use as feed yarns for draw-warping, according to the present invention, there are at least the following significant differences, and possibly additional preferences will become apparent as further experience is obtained in the practice of the present invention.

First, for DTFY, it is desirable to provide a low degree of interlace. Interlacing and interlaced yarns were first disclosed in the various Bunting and Nelson patents, e.g., U.S. Pat. No. 2,985,995, and a higher degree of interlacing was disclosed by Gray in U.S. Pat. No. 3,563,021, and a procedure for rapidly measuring interlace on a device described by Hitt in U.S. Pat. No. 3,290,932. This was used to measure all the interlace herein as RPC. As explained in the art, any interlace level is measured according to the distance between interlace nodes. (The device is understood to convert these node length distances in cm to RPC, i.e., to 10 log 10 values thereof. In other words, the larger the value (representing a larger distance between interlace nodes) the lower the degree of interlace. For DTFY, a low degree of interlace (i.e., a relatively high RPC) is generally desirable; in other words, a high degree of interlace (a low RPC) is not desirable during texturing. Thus, for DTFY purposes, it is generally desirable to provide a low degree of interlace as indicated by a relatively high RPC of 11 to 12. It will be understood that any such value is an average value, since the interlace may vary widely along any individual end, so, herein, all references to interlace RPC are to the average of at least 100 measurements, and preferably an even higher number. Although one may imagine that an interlaced yarn is uniformly interlaced along each end, this is not generally achieved in practice (and may not even be desirable). In contrast to the desideratum of a low degree of interlace (high RPC) for DTFY, it is desirable for draw-warping feed yarn, according to the present invention, to provide a much higher degree of interlace (as indicated by a smaller distance between nodes, i.e., RPC of less than 10). Again, it will be understood that these interlace levels are averages; thus, in practice, there is likely to be a variation of the degree of interlace; so there may be some portions of any yarns with undesirably low degrees of interlace, corresponding to what could (if such low degree would have been maintained throughout the whole yarn) have been suitable for a DTFY. According to the invention, a high degree of interlace is required because, after draw-warping (which will extend the distance between the interlace nodes, i.e., raise the RPC and lower the degree of interlace) the amount of interlace should be such as is desired for further processing of the drawn yarns, usually in fabric formation, e.g., by warp knitting. Accordingly, it is preferred that the degree of interlace be such that the (average) RPC be less than about 9.5, and it will generally be preferred to have an even higher degree of interlace, as shown by a value of less than about 7.5. This higher interlace is obtained most conveniently in practice by increasing the air pressure used for interlacing. The precise amount of interlace will generally depend on what is desirable in the final fabric containing the drawn yarns, especially for aesthetic purposes. It is generally difficult to obtain a degree of interlace higher than is indicated by a value of about 5.5 RPC at the high withdrawal speeds of the order of 3000 ypm that are used herein.

A second important consideration for draw-warping feed yarns, according to the present invention, is in relation to the finish. It has been customary to provide all filament yarns (as-spun) with a coating, generally referred to as a (spin-)finish, since the provision of such finish is generally the first contact of any freshly-extruded filament with any solid material, i.e., with anything other than the quenching air or any casual contact with a guide, which is usually undesirable before application of the spin finish. According to the present invention, the finish that is provided on the feed yarn should be stable enough to persist on such yarn even after it has been draw-warped, and it should persist in sufficient quantity and in such condition as to provide finish to enhance the subsequent processing of the drawn yarn, usually knitting to form the desired fabric. Hitherto, for DTFY, the objective of a spin-finish has been to maximize draw-texturing performance, as mentioned, e.g., by Piazza and Reese in U.S. Pat. No. 3,772,872, and in other publications discussing the importance of providing the optimum properties for processing on a draw-texturing machine. In contrast, just as with the interlace pin count, for a draw-warping feed yarn according to the present invention, it is desirable to provide a finish that is not only satisfactory for processing through the draw-warping machine, but also persists enough to avoid the need for further application of finish materials for subsequent processing, e.g., on a warp knitting machine. Thus, an acceptable finish for such draw-warping feed yarns consists of a major amount of low volatility ester, lesser amounts of low volatility emulsifiers, up to about 10% of mixed antistat components, a minor, but effective amount of alkoxylated polydimethylsiloxane or perfluorinated alcohol-derived wetting agent; and a minor, but effective amount of antioxidant. Such acceptable finishes have a viscosity between about 50 and 200 centipoise at 25.degree. C., a smoke point of greater than 140.degree. C., and volatility less than 30% at 200.degree. C. and less than 15% at 180.degree. C., when a 1.0 gram sample is exposed in a forced draft oven for 120 minutes. Thus, an acceptable finish used for such draw-warping feed yarns is "Lurol 2233", available from the George A. Goulston Company, 700 N. Johnson Street, Monroe, N.C. 28110.

Thus, although it might be feasible to use alternative feed yarns for draw-warping, and then to make the corresponding adjustments during or after the draw-warping process, before further processing, e.g., knitting, it is preferable and more economical to provide all the desired characteristics in the actual draw-warping feed yarn. Thus, for example, it is feasible to increase the degree of interlacing on certain draw-warping machines that are provided with interlacing air jets, but this would increase the cost of the draw-warping process, so is not as preferred as providing sufficient interlace in the feed yarn. Similarly, it might be feasible to apply further finish during or after the draw-warping process, and this is sometimes referred to as overlubing, but this again would increase the cost. It will also be understood that some finishes that may have been suggested or even applied for DTFY could possibly have the capability of persisting through a draw-warping operation, depending on the processing conditions, and so, if applied in sufficient amount, may prove equally suitable for use with draw-warping feed yarns according to the present invention, even if this use has not previously been suggested. However, not all finishes that have been used commercially and that have proved extremely satisfactory during the draw-texturing of DTFY have proved satisfactory for use for draw-warping feed yarns according to the present invention. Some prior DTFY finishes have fused excessively, and this can present an unpleasant situation, or even a toxic hazard to operators unless special measures are taken to avoid this problem, whereas most draw-texturing machines are constructed differently, so that this problem is not so apparent, or sufficient fumes are vented away in the course of normal operation without the need (and cost) of providing special measures.

Draw-warping is a process that has achieved considerable technical and commercial interest in recent years, because of its commercial advantages, and has been described in many publications, including Seaborn, U.S. Pat. No. 4,407,767, and by Frank Hunter in Fiber World, September, 1984, pages 61-68, in articles in Textile Month, May, 1984, pages 48-50 and March, 1985, page 17, and in Textile World, May, 1985, page 53, and in other articles, including the February, 1985, issue of Chemiefasern/Text.RTM.ilindustrie, and there are several commercial firms offering commercial draw-warping machines and systems, who have provided literature and patents. Thus, the concept and practice of draw-warping is already known to those skilled in the art. Various terms, such as "warp-drawing" and "draw-beaming" have been used additionally, but, primarily, herein, the term "draw-warping" is preferred.

As has been indicated already, and as is evident hereafter, the new flat yarns according to the invention have many interesting and advantageous properties, and some of these are quite surprising. Perhaps among the most surprising is that the copolyester filaments can provide fabrics of pleasing aesthetics, primarily softness (in addition to the bright colors that can be obtained on account of the affinity to cationic dyestuffs), and that these pleasing aesthetics may be further enhanced by a process known as brushing or napping. Indeed, fabrics containing the flat yarns according to the invention have been found particularly and surprisingly adaptable to napping, and it is believed that the energy requirements and even the number of passes necessary to achieve a desired effect is less than has been experienced with fabrics containing existing commercial polyester yarns, and this is of great interest and economic advantage. It is believed that this ability can now be rationalized by tensile characteristics of the new flat yarns of the invention, since it is believed that the copolyester filaments break more easily during the napping (or brushing) process than conventional polyester filaments that are commercially available. This ability may well be a result of the lower tensile strength and/or modulus, which is believed to be lower than that of comparable flat yarns even from the same copolyester (2G-T/SSI). In this respect, it will be understood that it is desirable to provide filaments and yarns that have sufficiently good tensile properties (including uniformity) so that they can provide textile processing, without excessive filament breaks, e.g., during the draw-warping and knitting operations, but provide the desired broken filaments during the brushing operation with a minimal number of passes and consumption of energy, since broken filaments at an earlier stage in processing Is undesired because it can cause processing difficulties and even stoppage of the machine and rejection of the fabric or yarns for poor quality reasons. Thus, there is a fine line between the ability to provide good performance during brushing and the ability to withstand earlier processing, and this ability to satisfy both requirements has been demonstrated to a surprising degree by the new flat yarns according to the present invention.

The invention is further illustrated in the following Example. All of the copolyester filaments were of 2G-T/SSI copolyester and all the filaments were spin-oriented filaments, the yarns being prepared by high speed cospinning with especially high interlace, and a suitable finish, as described, for draw-warping. Most of the properties herein are measured as described in Knox U.S. Pat. No. 4,156,071, the method for determining LRV is disclosed in Most, U.S. Pat. No. 4,444,710, and the interlace pin count is measured by the device described by Hitt in U.S. Pat. No. 3,290,932. Reference is also made to copending application Ser. No. 07/318,798 (DP-4145-B) filed simultaneously herewith, the disclosure of which is hereby incorporated by reference, for further disclosure of copolyester filaments in yarns that do not contain homopolyester filaments. The flat yarns of the present invention, however, have a more wool-like hand.

EXAMPLE

A 115 denier, cospun (50% copolyester and 50% homopolyester) feed yarn was produced on standard cospun DTFY equipment and draw-warped on a Karl Mayer draw-warper. The feed yarn contained 17 filaments of each type of polymer. Feed yarn properties are given in TABLE IA

TABLE IA______________________________________Denier 115.4% Denier Spread 1.8Draw Tension 42.1(1.71 .times. @ 185.degree. C.)Filament Cross-Section RoundNumber of Filaments 34Interlace, RPC 7.3% FOY 0.64% TiO.sub.2 0.30Copolymer LRV 13.1Homopolymer LRV 19.6______________________________________

This feed yarn was draw-warped on a Karl Mayer draw-warper with a separate heating system for the draw roll using various process conditions. The range of process settings is listed in Table IB:

TABLE IB______________________________________Draw Ratio 1.55 to 1.75Feed Roll Temperature 75.degree. C.Draw Roll Temperature 75-95.degree. C.Predraw Plate Temperature 90.degree. C.Draw Pin Temperature 105.degree. C.Set Plate Temperature 160-180.degree. C.______________________________________

Properties for the entire yarn bundle were measured and are given in table IC:

TABLE IC______________________________________Denier 68.6-55.4Tenacity, g/d 3.1-3.4Elongation at Break 29.1-41.1%Boil-Off-Shrinkage 5.5-6.3%Dry Heat Shrinkage 7.1-8.95%at 160.degree. C.______________________________________

Individual filaments were removed from the bundle and tensile properties measured to separate the copolymer (CO) and homopolymer (HO) properties. The results are given in Table ID:

TABLE ID______________________________________ HO CO______________________________________Modulus, g/d 66.6-82.7 51.4-68.9Tenacity, g/d 3.88-4.57 2.42-3.13Elongation, % 37.2-25.3 33.4-26.2______________________________________

The following comparative data indicated that withdrawal speeds of less than about 3000 ypm are preferred for making the feed yarns according to the invention, as shown in Table 2:

TABLE 2______________________________________SpinningWithdrawal speed (ypm) 2900 3200QB/M lbs 1.1 2.3Feed YarnTenacity, g/d 2.9 3.4Elongation at Break, % 30.7 30.8Draw-WarpingTension, g 30 14defects/set 0.0 1.5______________________________________

QB/M are the numbers of quality breaks per thousand pounds of yarn spun, and the defects/set are the numbers of defects over 4 beams, so the improvement obtained by reducing the withdrawal speed from 3200 to less than about 3000 ypm is clearly apparent.

As will be evident to those skilled in the art, many variations are possible, without departing from the concept of the invention. For instance, the polymer may contain additives, such as TiO.sub.2, which is a conventional additive, and variation of the TiO.sub.2 content can be used to differentiate the luster of the filaments, e.g., from clear through semi-dull to matte. Thus, suitable contents of TiO.sub.2 may vary from about 0 up to about 1.5% or 2%, for either or both component filaments. Similarly, other additives may be included. Furthermore, although conventionally the 2G-T/SSI copolyester has contained about 2 mole % of 5-sodium-sulfo-isophthalate residues, instead of terephthalate residues, the precise amount may be varied, as taught in the art, to obtain more or less affinity for cationic dyestuffs, and so a deeper or lighter dyeing in the eventual filaments, or to obtain other results that may be advantageous from this variation. Other variations may be made to the preparation or processing of the filaments and yarns, even if this has not been specifically disclosed in the Examples herein. It will also be understood that, although it may generally be preferred to use approximately equal numbers of the different types of filaments, depending on the aesthetics desired and other considerations, the precise quantities may be varied considerably.

It may also be advantageous to use mixtures of cross-sections and deniers for aesthetic or other purposes.

Claims

1. An interlaced multifilament draw-warping feed yarn consisting essentially of approximately equal quantities of poly(ethylene terephthalate) filaments and of poly[ethylene terephthalate/5-sodiumsulfoisophthlate] copolyester filaments containing about 2 mole % of ethylene 5-sodium-sulfo-isophthalate repeat units, being of denier about 70 to about 260, having an average interlace level of about 5 to about 10 RPC, and being provided with a finish that is stable enough to persist on such yarn after draw-warping in sufficient quantity and in such condition as to provide finish to enhance knitting performance.

2. A feed Yarn according to claim 1, wherein the average interlace level is about 5 to about 7.5 RPC.

3. A feed yarn according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the spin-oriented filaments have been obtained by spinning at a withdrawal speed of less than about 3000 ypm.

4. A process for preparing a flat multifilament interlaced textile yarn consisting essentially of approximately equal quantities of poly(ethylene terephthalate) filaments and of poly- [ethylene terephthalate/5-sodium-sulfo-isophthalate] copolyester filaments containing about 2 mole % of ethylene 5-sodium-sulfo-isophthalate repeat units, being of denier about 20 to about 150, and boil-off shrinkage about 2 to about 10%, and wherein the said copolyester filaments are of tenacity about 1.5 to about 2.5 grams per denier and elongation to break about 10 to about 50%, by first forming by high-speed spinning an interlaced multifilament draw-warping feed yarn of elongation about 80% to about 180% and of boil-off shrinkage at least about 40% according to claim 1 or 2, and then draw-warping said feed yarn to reduce the elongation to about 10% to about 50% and the shrinkage to about 2% to about 10%.