Patent Application
20200325606
The present invention relates to the field of nonwoven textiles, in particular the field of nonwoven textiles comprising natural silk. In particular, the invention relates to a nonwoven natural silk textile, and more specifically to a sheet of nonwoven natural silk textile.
Silk is a textile of animal origin which is used for manufacturing silk fabrics. In industry, it is generally produced by the caterpillars of certain moths, such as the caterpillar of Bombyx mori. Sericulture consists of the set of operations of cultivating the mulberry tree, rearing the silkworm to obtain the cocoon, reeling the cocoon, and spinning the silk.
The silkworm produces silk proteins which are secreted in the form of a single yarn (“filament”) comprising essentially two proteins, fibroin and sericin. Fibroin forms a fibre about which sericin will act as a natural adhesive, by fixing and protecting the fibres. This filament is used by the silkworm to suspend and then produce a cocoon wherein it will be able to complete its growth and its transformation into a moth.
Traditional methods for manufacturing silk consist of killing the caterpillar and destroying the cocoon. Conventionally, the cocoons are placed in ovens from 70 to 80° C., then steeped in boiling water so that the sericin dissolves and softens, which makes it possible to release the fibroin fibre. During this step, most of the sericin present in the natural silk of the cocoon is removed, either destroyed by the heat or dissolved and carried away by the rinsing water. This is followed by a spinning step, during which a plurality of fibroin fibres, conventionally about ten, are combined and attached to each other due to the cooling of the remaining sericin.
Consequently, silk yarn obtained following a conventional manufacturing method includes a low proportion of sericin, which is weakly water-soluble. This yarn is also formed from a plurality of fibroin fibres, and not from a single fibre as in the original filament. Fabrics manufactured from this yarn will therefore have completely different properties to that of natural silk. Furthermore, this manufacturing method of silk involves killing the animal used to produce the cocoon.
Sericin has very specific properties, which distinguish it from fibroin. It particularly has a nutrient, antioxidant, anti-UV and antibacterial action, in particular on the skin. Therefore, there is a need for textiles formed from natural silk, rich in sericin, and not silk extracted by spinning a cocoon, processed and low in sericin.
Due to the presence of a large proportion of sericin in natural silk, it is difficult to envisage preparing natural silk yarns, and such yarns would probably be unsuitable for weaving. Natural silk textiles will therefore preferably be nonwoven textiles.
In view of the increasing attention focused on animal suffering and animal cultivation conditions, there is also a demand for novel manufacturing methods of silk textiles which are not manufactured by interrupting the growth of the moth, and particularly for novel methods which avoid killing the caterpillar, chrysalis and/or moth.
The Applicant has conducted research on the structure of silk and the behaviour of silkworms, which led her to design and manufacture nonwoven textiles formed from natural silk, as well as design and implement a manufacturing method of nonwoven textiles making it possible to remedy the drawbacks of the methods of the prior art.
The invention therefore relates to a sheet of nonwoven silk textile, comprising yarns and/or fibres of fibroin coated with sericin A, sericin B and sericin C, the yarns or fibres comprising fibroin in a quantity between 70% and 80% and sericin A, sericin B and sericin C in a quantity between 20% and 30%, by weight with respect to the total weight of the yarn or fibre; and comprising at least one protruding border; the border being located at the periphery of the sheet.
According to one embodiment, the protruding border has a thickness between 0.1 and 100 mm, preferably between 0.25 and 25 mm, more preferentially between 0.5 and 5 mm According to one embodiment, the surface area occupied by the protruding border represents less than 10%, preferably less than 5%, more preferentially less than 1%, of the total surface area of said sheet. According to one embodiment, the width of the protruding border is between 0.002 and 12.5 mm, preferably between 0.01 and 2.5 mm, more preferentially between 0.05 and 0.5 mm.
According to one embodiment, the sheet is partially or entirely of a three-dimensional shape; preferably of a convex shape.
The invention also relates to a sheet of nonwoven natural silk textile, comprising yarns and/or fibres of fibroin coated with sericin A, sericin B and sericin C, the yarns or fibres comprising fibroin in a quantity between 70% and 80% and sericin A, sericin B and sericin C in a quantity between 20% and 30%, by weight with respect to the total weight of the yarn or fibre; the sheet being partially or entirely of a three-dimensional shape; preferably of a convex shape.
According to one embodiment, the convex shape is a polyhedron such as a tetrahedron, a cube, a hexahedron, an octahedron, regular dodecahedron and regular icosahedron; a cone; a sphere; a partially hollowed sphere; a hemisphere; an ovoid; a dome; or a combination thereof.
According to one embodiment, the sheet comprises at least one protruding border; the border being located at the periphery of the sheet.
According to one embodiment, the yarns and/or fibres further comprise a quantity of waxes between 0.4% and 0.8%, a quantity of carbohydrates between 1.2% and 1.6%, a quantity of inorganic compounds of about 0.7% and a quantity of pigments of about 0.2%, by weight with respect to the total weight of the yarn or fibre. According to one embodiment, the yarns have a length greater than 1 m, preferably greater than 100 m, more preferentially greater than 500 m, even more preferentially greater than 1 km. According to one embodiment, the fibres have a length between 600 nm and 1 m, preferably between 600 μm and 1 mm.
According to one embodiment, the thickness of the sheet is between 0.001 and 100 mm, preferably between 0.01 and 10 mm, more preferentially between 0.1 and 1 mm, on a surface area corresponding to at least 90%, preferably at least 95%, more preferentially at least 99%, of its total surface area.
According to one embodiment, the sheet is a voile.
The invention also relates to an item comprising or being formed from at least one sheet as described above.
According to one embodiment, the item comprises at least one substrate, each substrate being clad or covered in whole or in part with a sheet as described above.
The invention also relates to a manufacturing method of a nonwoven natural silk textile, comprising the following steps: (a) rearing a silkworm; (b) taking the silkworm at a time when it secretes natural silk; (c) depositing it on a surface of a substrate wherein: the surface of the substrate does not contain rough areas with size greater than 3 mm, preferably greater than 1 mm, more preferentially greater than 0.5 mm, even more preferentially greater than 0.1 mm; the surface of the substrate does not contain recesses with width greater than 1.5 cm, preferably greater than 1 cm, more preferentially greater than 5 mm, even more preferentially greater than 1 mm; and the surface and/or the substrate is configured so as to restrict the progression of the silkworm; (d) waiting the time required for the desired quantity of natural silk to be deposited on the surface of the substrate, or for the silkworm to have secreted all its silk; (e) removing the silkworm from the nonwoven natural silk textile obtained; and (f) optionally, separating the nonwoven natural silk textile from the surface of the substrate.
According to one embodiment, the surface of the substrate is of a two-dimensional shape. According to one embodiment, the surface of the substrate is partially or entirely of a three-dimensional shape; preferably of a convex shape. According to one embodiment, the surface of the substrate is an oval; a disk; a polygon such as a triangle, a rectangle, a pentagon, a hexagon or an octagon; or a combination thereof. According to one embodiment, the surface of the substrate is a polyhedron such as a tetrahedron, a cube, a hexahedron, an octahedron, regular dodecahedron and regular icosahedron; a cone; a sphere; a partially hollowed sphere; a hemisphere; an ovoid; a dome with a polyhedral base; or a combination thereof.
According to one embodiment, the surface of the substrate contains no rough areas and/or no recesses. According to one embodiment, the substrate does not contain rough areas with size greater than 3 mm up to a distance of 1 mm, preferably 5 mm, more preferentially 25 mm, even more preferentially 50 mm, from the surface of the substrate. According to one embodiment, the substrate does not contain recesses with width greater than 1.5 cm up to a distance of 1 mm, preferably 5 mm, more preferentially 25 mm, even more preferentially 50 mm, from the surface of the substrate.
According to one embodiment, the nonwoven natural silk textile is a sheet.
According to one embodiment, the substrate is raised, preferably by means of a tube, column or rod.
In the present invention, the following terms are defined as follows:
Sheet of Nonwoven Natural Silk Textile
The present invention relates to a sheet of nonwoven natural silk textile.
According to one embodiment, the sheet has a thickness substantially less than each of the dimensions of the faces thereof.
In one embodiment, the shortest of the other dimensions of the sheet is greater than or equal to 5 times the thickness of the sheet. In one specific embodiment, the shortest of the other dimensions of the sheet is greater than or equal to 10 times the thickness of the sheet. In one more specific embodiment, the shortest of the other dimensions of the sheet is greater than or equal to 50 times the thickness of the sheet. In one even more specific embodiment, the shortest of the other dimensions of the sheet is greater than or equal to 100 times the thickness of the sheet. In one even more specific embodiment, the shortest of the other dimensions of the sheet is greater than or equal to 500 times the thickness of the sheet.
According to one embodiment, the thickness of the sheet is at least 5 nm, preferably at least 5 μm, more preferentially at least 0.1 mm, on a surface area corresponding to at least 90%, preferably at least 95%, more preferentially at least 99%, of its total surface area. According to one embodiment, the thickness of the sheet is less than 100 mm, preferably less than 10 mm, more preferentially less than 1 mm, on a surface area corresponding to at least 90%, preferably at least 95%, more preferentially at least 99%, of its total surface area. In one embodiment, the thickness of the sheet is between 0.001 and 100 mm, preferably between 0.01 and 10 mm, more preferentially between 0.1 and 1 mm, on a surface area corresponding to at least 90%, preferably at least 95%, more preferentially at least 99%, of its total surface area.
According to one embodiment, the density of the sheet is between 15 and 45 g/m2, preferably between 20 and 40 g/m2, more preferentially between 27 and 31 g/m2.
According to one embodiment, the sheet is symmetrical. According to one embodiment, the sheet is asymmetrical.
According to one embodiment, the sheet is two-dimensional. According to a further embodiment, the sheet is partially or entirely of a three-dimensional shape, such as a convexity or a concavity. In one embodiment, the sheet is partially of a two-dimensional shape and is partially of a three-dimension shape. According to one embodiment, the sheet comprises at least one convexity. In one embodiment, the sheet is convex. According to one embodiment, the sheet is not concave. In one embodiment, the sheet contains no concavity. An example of concavity according to the invention is a spherical shape of a diameter greater than or equal to 300 mm.
In one embodiment, the faces of the sheet are in the shape of an oval; disk; polygon such as a triangle, a rectangle (for example a rhombus or a square), a pentagon, a hexagon or an octagon; or the combinations thereof.
In one specific embodiment, the faces of the sheet are rectangles wherein the width is greater than or equal to 5 times, preferably 10 times, more preferentially 50 times, even more preferentially 100 times, even more preferentially 500 times, the thickness of the sheet. The “width” is defined in this context as being the shorter of the two sides of the surface of the rectangle.
In one specific embodiment, the faces of the sheet are disks wherein the diameter is greater than or equal to 5 times, preferably 10 times, more preferentially 50 times, even more preferentially 100 times, even more preferentially 500 times, the thickness of the sheet.
In one embodiment, the sheet is three-dimensional and the sheet is a partially or entirely regular volume. In one specific embodiment, the sheet is a polyhedron such as a tetrahedron, a cube, a hexahedron (for example a parallelepiped), an octahedron, regular dodecahedron and regular icosahedron; a cone, a sphere; a partially hollowed sphere, a hemisphere; an ovoid; a dome with a polyhedral base; or the combinations thereof. In one specific embodiment, the edges of the polyhedron are marked by the presence of a protruding border along the entire length of the edge.
In one specific embodiment, the sheet is a sphere or a hemisphere wherein the circumference is greater than or equal to 5 times, preferably 10 times, more preferentially 50 times, even more preferentially 100 times, even more preferentially 500 times, the thickness thereof, measured at any point of the sphere or of the hemisphere.
In one embodiment, the sheet is three-dimensional and the sheet is a volume of irregular shape, for example a flower petal or an asymmetrical shape.
In one embodiment, the sheet is three-dimensional and the sheet is a volume which forms a part of an item of clothing or an item of clothing, for example a corset.
According to one embodiment, the sheet is a voile, i.e. a translucent sheet. In one embodiment, the voile has a thickness between 0.001 and 1 mm, preferably between 0.01 and 0.1 mm, more preferentially between 0.1 and 0.5 mm, on a surface area corresponding to at least 90%, preferably at least 95%, more preferentially at least 99%, of its total surface area. In one embodiment, the voile has a thickness of 0.1 to 0.3 mm on a surface area corresponding to at least 90% of its total surface area and its transparency is comparable, for example, to that of an organza. In a further embodiment, the voile has a thickness of 0.3 to 0.9 mm on a surface area corresponding to at least 90% of its total surface area and its transparency is comparable, for example, to that of a silk muslin. In a further embodiment, the voile has a thickness of 1 to 1.5 mm on a surface area corresponding to at least 90% of its total surface area and its transparency is comparable, for example, to that of a silk twill. In a further embodiment, the voile has a thickness of at least 1.6 mm on a surface area corresponding to at least 90% of its total surface area and its degree of opacity is comparable, for example, to that of a felt. According to a further embodiment, the sheet is opaque.
According to one embodiment, the sheet comprises a fabric side and a back. In one embodiment, the back has a more satin appearance than the fabric side.
According to one embodiment, the sheet comprises at least one protruding border. In one embodiment, the protruding border is located at the periphery of the sheet. In one embodiment, the sheet includes a fabric side and a back and the border is protruding with respect to the fabric side of the sheet. In one embodiment, the thickness of the protruding border is between 0.1 and 100 mm, preferably between 0.25 and 25 mm, more preferentially between 0.5 and 5 mm. In one embodiment, the width of the protruding border is between 0.002 and 12.5 mm preferably between 0.01 and 2.5 mm, more preferentially between 0.05 and 0.5 mm. In one embodiment, the surface area occupied by the protruding border represents less than 10%, preferably less than 5%, more preferentially less than 1%, of the total surface area of the sheet. Advantageously, the protruding border enhances the physical properties of the sheet, for example the resistance to deformation (rigidity). Advantageously, the presence of the protruding border makes it possible to avoid a finishing step such as rolling or oversewing (hem or border formation). Advantageously, the presence of the protruding border makes it possible to avoid a finishing step such as a roundseam (immobilisation of yarns on the periphery of a fabric).
According to one embodiment, the sheet is not a cocoon. According to one embodiment, the sheet does not comprise any material derived from a cocoon. According to one embodiment, the sheet is not manufactured from cocoons.
According to one embodiment, the sheet comprises yarns and/or fibres of fibroin coated with at least one sericin. In one embodiment, the sheet comprises yarns and/or fibres of fibroin coated with sericin A, sericin B and/or sericin C. In one specific embodiment, the sheet comprises yarns and/or fibres of fibroin coated with sericin A, sericin B and sericin C.
According to one embodiment, the sheet comprises yarns and/or fibres comprising fibroin in a quantity between 70% and 80% and at least one sericin in a quantity ranging between 20% and 30%, by weight with respect to the total weight of the yarn or fibre.
In one embodiment, the sheet comprises yarns and/or fibres having the composition indicated in Table 1. In one embodiment, the sheet has the composition indicated in Table 1.
According to one embodiment, the sheet comprises yarns wherein the length is greater than 1 m, preferably greater than 100 m, more preferentially greater than 500 m, even more preferentially greater than 1 km. According to one embodiment, the sheet comprises yarns wherein the length is less than 3 km, preferably less than 2 km. In one embodiment, the length of the yarns is greater than 1 m and less than 2 km. In one specific embodiment, the sheet comprises yarns wherein the length is between 1 and 1.5 km.
According to one embodiment, the sheet comprises fibres wherein the length is between 600 nm and 1 m, preferably between 50 μm and 1 mm.
According to one embodiment, the fibres and/or yarns have a triangular cross-section. According to one embodiment, if the cross-section thereof is equated with a circular cross-section, the fibres and/or yarns have a diameter of about 10 μm.
According to one embodiment, the yarns and/or fibres are arranged non-randomly. According to one embodiment, the yarns and/or fibres are oriented. According to one embodiment, the yarns and/or fibres do not form a mesh.
According to one embodiment, the sheet comprises silk fibres breaking down between 100 and 150° C., preferably at about 130° C. According to one embodiment, the sheet comprises silk fibres having a carbonisation temperature between 250 and 350° C., preferably about 300° C. According to one embodiment, the sheet comprises silk fibres having an extensibility of about 17% to about 25% dry, and about 30% wet.
The nonwoven textile sheet according to the invention may undergo various post-treatments, and particularly finishing techniques known to those skilled in the art. In particular, the sheet may be the subject of post-treatments generally applied to silk in the textile industry.
According to one embodiment, the sheet has undergone a post-treatment step such as a step of dyeing, printing, chemical priming (in dispersion, in emulsion or in suspension, etc.), mechanical priming (fulling, napping, shearing, singeing, tentering, sanforising, etc.), coating, thermoforming, thermo-modelling (as defined hereinafter), cutting, pleating, embroidery or material overlay.
According to the present invention, the “thermo-modelling” post-treatment refers to a method comprising the following steps: (i) steeping a sheet of nonwoven textile in hot water, (ii) placing the sheet on a mould while still hot, and (iii) slightly stretching the sheet, (iv) drying the sheet. Step (i) makes it possible to slightly dissolve sericin and thus loosen the weft of the nonwoven textile. Step (ii) makes it possible to give the sheet the shape of the mould. Step (iii) makes it possible to ensure that the sheet takes the shape of the mould correctly. Step (iv) may for example consist of leaving the sheet at ambient temperature until it has dried. After drying, the sheet keeps the shape of the mould permanently. With this method, it is not necessary to use an air evacuation system.
In one embodiment, the sheet has been treated by thermo-modelling at a temperature less than 60° C., preferably less than 50° C., more preferentially at a temperature of 40° C. In one embodiment, the sheet has a thickness between 0.025 and 5 mm, preferably between 0.1 and 1 mm, and the sheet has been treated by thermo-modelling.
In one embodiment, the sheet has been dyed at a temperature less than 60° C., preferably at a temperature less than 40° C., more preferentially cold (about 25° C.).
According to one embodiment, the sheet has not undergone any post-treatment resulting in the extraction, denaturing and/or destruction of a sericin chosen among sericins A, B and/or C. In one embodiment, the sheet has not undergone any chemical priming, mechanical priming and/or thermoforming post-treatment. In one embodiment, the sheet has not undergone any post-treatment.
Item
The invention also relates to an item which comprises or is formed from at least one sheet of nonwoven natural silk textile as described above.
According to one embodiment, the item comprises at least one sheet as described above. According to one embodiment, the item is formed from at least one sheet as described above.
According to one embodiment, the item comprises at least one substrate, each substrate being clad or covered in whole or in part with a sheet as described above. In one embodiment, the item comprises at least one substrate partially clad or covered with a sheet. In one embodiment, the item comprises at least one substrate completely clad or covered with a sheet. In one embodiment, the sheet is partially fixed to the substrate. In a further embodiment, the sheet is not fixed to the substrate. In one specific embodiment, the substrate is placed on a raising means.
According to one embodiment, the item comprises at least two permanently joined sheets of nonwoven natural silk textile. In one embodiment, the sheets are joined by means of at least one sericin. In one embodiment, the sheets are joined by means of natural silk yarns comprising fibroin coated with at least one sericin.
According to one embodiment, the item is a compartment comprising two sheets, joined on a portion of the periphery thereof by sericin, and comprising a gap between the two sheets. In one embodiment, the two sheets have the same area. In a further embodiment, the two sheets have different areas.
According to one embodiment, the item has undergone a post-treatment intended to modify the properties or the appearance of the sheet, as described above.
Manufacturing Method
The invention also relates to a manufacturing method of a nonwoven natural silk textile.
According to one embodiment, the nonwoven natural silk textile is a sheet. In one embodiment, the sheet of nonwoven natural silk textile is as described above. According to a further embodiment, the nonwoven natural silk textile is not a sheet.
According to one embodiment, the invention relates to a manufacturing method of a nonwoven natural silk textile, comprising the following steps:
In this context, the term “progression” refers to the movement of the silkworm parallel with the surface of the substrate, on the surface of the substrate. Optionally, the method may comprise a step “(f) separating the nonwoven natural silk textile obtained from the surface of the substrate”.
According to one embodiment, the silkworm is the caterpillar of Bombyx mori, the Tussah silkworm (Antheraea pernyi), the Japanese silk moth (Antheraea yamamai), or the ailanthus silk moth (Sarnia cynthia). In one embodiment, the silkworm is the caterpillar of Bombyx mori. The suitable rearing conditions for conducing the silkworm to secrete natural silk fall within the scope of conventional sericulture and are well-known to those skilled in the art. According to one embodiment, the rearing of the silkworm comprises feeding same with white mulberry (Morus alba) leaves for about 30 days.
According to one embodiment, the worm will secrete silk continuously during a period of a duration between 12 and 72 hours. In one typical embodiment, the silkworm will secrete for 20 to 50 hours, for example 48 hours.
According to one embodiment, a plurality of silkworms is taken and deposited simultaneously and/or successively on the surface of the substrate. In one embodiment, the number of silkworms which are present simultaneously on the surface of a substrate is between 1 and 600, preferably between 1 and 400, more preferentially between 1 and 300 silkworms per square metre of surface area.
According to one embodiment, the method is carried out at a temperature between 15 and 35° C., preferably between 20 and 25° C., more preferentially at about 22° C. According to one embodiment, the method is carried out in homogeneous light, preferably in the absence of any light gradient. According to one embodiment, the method is carried out under controlled ambient humidity conditions, preferably with a humidity between 40% and 20%, typically with a humidity of about 30%.
Without wishing to be bound to any scientific theory, the Applicant believes that, once deposited on the surface of the substrate, the worm secreting silk will seek three spatial adhesion points to suspend its future cocoon, and if it succeeds, it will weave a cocoon about itself instead of depositing silk on the surface of the substrate. To obtain a nonwoven textile and not a cocoon, it is therefore necessary to place the silkworm under conditions preventing cocoon formation, i.e. preventing the silkworm from having access to three spatial adhesion points.
In the method according to the invention, this result is obtained due to the fact that the surface of the substrate as well as the substrate do not contain any adhesion points to which the silkworm can attach silk, i.e. it is preferable that the surface of the substrate, if it comprises one or more adhesion points, only comprises adhesion points which are all situated in the same plane, thus placing the worm under conditions wherein it cannot suspend a cocoon spatially. The substrate may comprise adhesion points but it is preferable that they be situated in the same plane as any present on the surface and/or situated out of the reach of the silkworm. For example, the substrate may comprise one or a plurality of “inaccessible” adhesion points, that the silkworm could not reach without falling from the substrate.
According to one embodiment, the surface of the substrate is entirely of a two-dimensional shape. According to a further embodiment, the surface of the substrate is partially or entirely of a three-dimensional shape, such as a convexity. In one embodiment, the surface of the substrate is partially of a two-dimensional shape and is partially of a three-dimensional shape.
According to one embodiment, the surface of the substrate comprises at least one convexity. In one embodiment, the surface of the substrate is convex. In one specific embodiment, the surface of the substrate is a hemisphere, preferentially a hemisphere wherein the convexity is oriented upwards. According to one embodiment, the surface of the substrate is not concave (i.e. is “non-concave”). In one embodiment, the surface of the substrate contains no concavity. In one specific embodiment, the surface of the substrate is two-dimensional and/or convex.
According to one embodiment, the surface of the substrate is a closed volume. In one embodiment, the surface of the substrate is a closed volume and devoid of edges.
According to one embodiment, an adhesion point to which the silkworm can attach silk is a rough area. In one embodiment, the surface of the substrate contains rough areas wherein the size is less than 3 mm, preferably less than 1 mm, more preferentially less than 0.5 mm, even more preferentially less than 0.1 mm. In one embodiment, the surface of the substrate contains rough areas wherein the size is greater than 0.05 mm, preferably greater than 0.01 mm, more preferentially greater than 0.005 mm, even more preferentially greater than 0.001 mm. In one embodiment, the surface of the substrate does not contain rough areas wherein the size is greater than 3 mm, preferably does not contain rough areas wherein the size is greater than 1 mm, more preferentially does not contain rough areas wherein the size is greater than 0.5 mm, even more preferentially does not contain rough areas wherein the size is greater than 0.1 mm. In one specific embodiment, the surface of the substrate is smooth, i.e. devoid of rough areas. An example of a surface containing rough areas is a rough surface such as sandpaper. Such a surface may be obtained for example from a smooth surface (such as Plexiglas) by any means known to those skilled in the art, for example by sanding.
According to one embodiment, an adhesion point to which the silkworm can attach silk is a recess. In one embodiment, the surface of the substrate contains recesses wherein the width is less than 15 mm, preferably less than 10 mm, more preferentially less than 5 mm, even more preferentially less than 1 mm. In one embodiment, the surface of the substrate contains recesses wherein the width is greater than 0.5 mm, preferably greater than 0.1 mm, more preferentially greater than 0.05 mm, even more preferentially greater than 0.01 mm. In one embodiment, the surface of the substrate does not contain recesses wherein the width is greater than 1.5 cm, preferably does not contain recesses wherein the width is greater than 1 cm, more preferentially does not contain recesses wherein the width is greater than 5 mm, even more preferentially does not contain recesses wherein the width is greater than 1 mm. In one specific embodiment, the surface of the substrate is solid, i.e. devoid of recesses. An example of a surface containing recesses is a porous surface such as netting or a sponge. Such a surface may be obtained for example from a solid surface by any means known to those skilled in the art, for example by perforation.
According to one embodiment, sericin does not adhere irreversibly to the surface of the substrate, which makes it possible to detach the nonwoven textile therefrom without damaging the textile.
According to one embodiment, the surface is composed or formed of a material impervious to sericin. In one embodiment, the surface of the substrate is made of glass, metal, inorganic polymer such as polysiloxanes (silicones), or organic polymer such as polystyrene (PS), poly(methyl methacrylate) (PMMA), for example Plexiglas® or Altuglas®. In one embodiment, the surface of the substrate is made of leather; of woven or nonwoven textile such as woven silk, cotton; or of paper such as cardboard. According to one embodiment, the surface of the substrate is a material pervious to sericin, such as a nonwoven natural silk textile. According to one embodiment, the surface of the substrate is partially or entirely formed of a material not exhibiting toxicity in respect of the silkworm.
According to one embodiment, the surface of the substrate and/or the substrate is two-dimensional. In one embodiment, the surface of the substrate and/or the substrate is an oval; a disk; a polygon such as a triangle, a rectangle (for example a rhombus or a square), a pentagon, a hexagon or an octagon; or a combination thereof.
According to one embodiment, the surface of the substrate and/or the substrate is partially or entirely of a three-dimensional shape. In one embodiment, the surface of the substrate and/or the substrate is a partially or entirely regular volume. In one specific embodiment, the surface of the substrate and/or the substrate is a polyhedron such as a tetrahedron, a cube, a hexahedron (for example a parallelepiped), an octahedron, regular dodecahedron and regular icosahedron; a cone; a sphere; a partially hollowed sphere; a hemisphere; an ovoid; a dome with a polyhedral base; or a combination thereof. In one embodiment, the surface of the substrate and/or the substrate is partially or entirely three-dimensional and is a volume of irregular shape. In one embodiment, the surface of the substrate and/or the substrate is a volume in the form of part of an item of clothing or of an item of clothing. In one embodiment, the surface of the substrate and/or the substrate is symmetrical. In one embodiment, the surface of the substrate and/or the substrate is asymmetrical. According to one embodiment, the surface of the substrate measures at least 70 mm long and/or has at least 70 mm of apparent diameter.
According to one embodiment, the dimensions of the surface of the substrate may be modified after the step of depositing natural silk yarns. In one embodiment, the dimensions of the surface are modified by means of a change of size of the substrate, for example by inflating-deflating, or by folding-unfolding.
According to one embodiment, the substrate does not contain, in the vicinity of the surface of the substrate, adhesion points to which the silkworm can attach silk. In one embodiment, the substrate does not contain adhesion points to which the silkworm can attach silk up to a distance of 1 mm, preferably 5 mm, more preferentially 25 mm, even more preferentially 50 mm, from the surface of the substrate. In one specific embodiment, the substrate does not contain adhesion points to which the silkworm can attach silk.
In the absence of an obstacle to the progression thereof, the silkworm will continue to move along the surface of the substrate, and only deposit one yarn on the surface of the substrate. For this reason, in order to obtain a nonwoven textile having a thickness greater than the diameter of the silk thread, it is necessary to constrain the silkworm to move along the surface of the substrate, this movement being restricted to the surface of the substrate.
In this method according to the invention, this result is obtained:
(i) in that the surface and/or the substrate comprises at least one means of restricting the progression of the silkworm; and/or
(ii) in that the surface and/or the substrate is configured so as to restrict the progression of the silkworm.
According to one embodiment, the surface and/or the substrate comprises at least one means of restricting the progression of the silkworm. According to one embodiment, the surface and/or the substrate is configured so as to restrict the progression of the silkworm.
According to one embodiment, the configuration for restricting the progression of the silkworm is that the substrate is raised, for example using at least one raising means. The silkworm thus sees its progression restricted by encountering an empty space in front of it, and is compelled to change direction, thus depositing its yarn once again on the surface of the substrate.
In one embodiment, the substrate is placed and/or fixed on a raising means, which is a part wherein the lateral dimensions are substantially reduced with respect to the lateral dimensions of the surface of the substrate, preferably reduced by 25%, more preferentially reduced by 50%, even more preferentially reduced by at least 75%. Examples of raising means according to this embodiment are a tube, a column or a rod attached to a base or to a shaft.
In one embodiment, the substrate is horizontally placed and/or fixed on a raising means.
In a further embodiment, the substrate comprises a horizontal portion including a surface, and this horizontal portion is raised by means of a further portion of the substrate. In one specific embodiment, the horizontal portion overhangs an elongated vertical portion wherein the lateral dimensions are substantially reduced with respect to the lateral dimensions of the surface, preferably reduced by 25%, more preferentially reduced by 50%, even more preferentially reduced by at least 75%. An example of raising means according to this embodiment is a support with a flared base which is part of the substrate.
According to one embodiment, the spatial position of the substrate may be modified during the method. In one embodiment, it is possible to choose the surface of the substrate whereon the silkworm will deposit the silk yarn by orienting this surface such that this surface is the uppermost part of this substrate.
According to one embodiment, the product obtained from the method is an item comprising at least one substrate, each substrate being clad or covered in whole or in part with a sheet as described above. According to one embodiment, the method does not include a step “(f) separating the nonwoven natural silk textile obtained from the surface of the substrate”.
According to one embodiment, the method comprises a step of bonding together at least two sheets of nonwoven natural silk textile. In one embodiment, the parts of the sheets to be joined are moistened slightly, then are juxtaposed, then steps (a) to (e) of the method are carried out to ensure permanent bonding of the sheets with one another by means of the deposition of new natural silk yarns. In one specific embodiment, the sheets are joined by at least one edge. In one specific embodiment, the sheets are overlaid on all or part of the surface thereof.
The dry process, molten process and wet process are methods of manufacturing nonwoven textiles well-known to those skilled in the art. According to one embodiment, the nonwoven natural silk textile is not obtained by the dry process, molten process, or wet process.
The method according to the invention may optionally include one or a plurality of post-treatment steps, and particularly finishing techniques known to those skilled in the art. In particular, the method may comprise post-treatment steps generally applied to silk in the textile industry.
According to one embodiment, the post-treatment step is a step of dyeing, printing, chemical priming (in dispersion, in emulsion or in suspension, etc.), mechanical priming (fulling, napping, shearing, singeing, tentering, sanforising, etc.), coating, thermoforming, thermo-modelling (as defined hereinafter), cutting, pleating, embroidery or material overlay.
In one embodiment, the nonwoven natural silk textile has been treated by thermo-modelling at a temperature less than 60° C., preferably less than 50° C., more preferentially at a temperature of 40° C. In one embodiment, the nonwoven natural silk textile has a thickness between 0.025 and 5 mm, preferably between 0.1 and 1 mm, and the textile has been treated by thermo-modelling. In one embodiment, the nonwoven natural silk textile has been dyed at a temperature less than 60° C., preferably at a temperature less than 40° C., more preferentially cold (about 25° C.).
According to one embodiment, the nonwoven natural silk textile has not undergone any post-treatment resulting in the extraction, denaturing and/or destruction of a sericin chosen from sericins A, B and/or C. In one embodiment, the nonwoven natural silk textile has not undergone any chemical priming, mechanical priming and/or thermoforming post-treatment. In one embodiment, the nonwoven natural silk textile has not undergone any post-treatment.
The present invention will be understood more clearly in view of the following examples illustrating the invention in a non-limiting manner.
Materials and Methods
Materials
The surface of the substrate used is typically of a two-dimensional shape; or of a three-dimensional shape and convex; smooth or not comprising rough areas wherein the size is greater than 0.1 mm; and solid, non-concave and devoid of concavities. It is made of plastic (PS, PMMA) or glass, which are materials that are impervious to sericin. The substrate and the surface thereof are in the shape of a square, disks, hemisphere or other shapes. The dimensions of the substrate are variable and at least 70 mm in length or in diameter. The silk yarn deposition surface is formed of the entire top surface of the substrate.
The silkworm is the caterpillar of Bombyx mori. The substrate is configured so as to restrict the progression of the silkworm. It is horizontally attached to a raising means, which is a rod secured in a support, for example a rectangular support. The rod and the support may be in any material, and are typically made of metal or wood. Any method suitable for attaching the substrate to the rod may be suitable, typically the attachment is carried out by means of an adhesive paper or an adhesive putty (such as Patafix®). The attachment zone of the rod with the substrate may form an adhesion point for silk, but as said zone is situated below the substrate, the silkworm cannot reach it and therefore cannot form a cocoon. Examples of substrates with raising means used in the method are shown in
Methods
The caterpillar of Bombyx mori is fed with white mulberry (Morus alba) leaves for 30 days. The rearing of the caterpillar so that it reaches the development stage where it secretes filament falls within the scope of conventional sericulture, well-known to those skilled in the art. The method is carried out at 22° C., in homogeneous light and with an ambient humidity of about 30%.
One or more silkworms are taken and deposited simultaneously on the substrate at a time when they secrete silk, and removed from the substrate when they have finished secreting all their silk. According to the thickness sought for the sheet, the number of worms deposited is adapted. The number of silkworms deposited simultaneously on the substrate is dependent on the dimensions of the substrate and the silk thickness sought, but it is typically 400 worms/m2, i.e. 4 worms/dm2. A waiting period then takes place for the time required for the sought quantity of natural silk to be deposited on the surface of the substrate, or for the silkworm to have secreted all its silk. At this stage, the silkworm is removed from the nonwoven natural silk textile obtained. Optionally, the nonwoven natural silk textile obtained is separated from the surface of the substrate.
Results
Each silkworm moves along the substrate and deposits the natural silk filament thereof on the substrate. This filament dries in a few seconds. Illustrations of this step of the method are shown in
A sheet of nonwoven natural silk textile is obtained by means of this method. Examples of sheets obtained using the method are listed in Table 2.
The mean mass of natural silk produced by a Bombyx mori silkworm is 0.172 g.
According to one alternative embodiment of the method described in Example 4, an item is manufactured using the following method, represented schematically in
A first sheet is manufactured according to the method described above, then this sheet is detached and a second sheet is manufactured in the same way and left in place on the substrate. One edge of each of the two sheets is then moistened slightly, which induces partial dissolution of sericin. The two edges are immediately placed in contact, and the drying of the sericin holds the two sheets bonded together by one edge.
Silkworms are deposited on the substrate, and deposit silk which will permanently join the two sheets together by the edge. It is also possible to bond the sheets while the manufacture of the second sheet has not yet been completed, in which case the silkworms will simultaneously produce the second sheet and join it with the first sheet. By repeating these steps several times, an item comprising at least two sheets joined together permanently by natural silk is obtained.
The method represented in
According to one alternative embodiment of the method described in Example 4, an item is manufactured using the following method, represented schematically in
The substrate is a sphere or pseudosphere. As they move to avoid falling, the silkworms will only deposit filament on the uppermost surface of the substrate. When the sought natural silk thickness has been deposited, the substrate is detached from the raising means and oriented such that the part not yet covered of the substrate becomes the uppermost part. It is not necessary to remove the silkworms from the substrate during the movement of the substrate. The silkworm(s) will continue to deposit their filament on the top surface of the substrate, and thus by successive movements of the substrate, it is possible to have the entire surface of the substrate covered with natural silk. The sheet obtained is devoid of protruding borders at the periphery thereof.
In the embodiment represented in
According to a further possible embodiment, the substrate is solid and is not removed after the manufacture of the sheet. A spherical or pseudo-spherical item comprising a substrate partially or completely covered with a sheet of natural silk is thus obtained.
According to an alternative embodiment of the method described in Example 4, a substrate assembly represented in
The substrates are configured such that a silkworm falling from its substrate would fall onto another substrate of the assembly, instead of falling onto the ground. This substrate assembly is advantageous as it makes it possible to reduce the number of procedures required to keep the silkworms on the surface of the substrate where they are to deposit their filament. A tray is also paced underneath the substrate assembly, which makes it possible to retrieve the silkworms that have fallen from substrate to substrate over the entire height of the substrate assembly.
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1654545 | May 2016 | FR | national |
| Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/FR2017/051229 | 5/19/2017 | WO | 00 |
