This invention generally relates to the technical field of fabric, and more particularly, to a novel woven warp-knit-like fabric.
Along with the social progress and the improvement of living standards, people have higher demands on clothes. Presently, people pursue the comfort other than leisure, fitness and style of clothes. Therefore, a fabric that resembles traditional jeans in appearance and is soft, thin, comfortable, breathable and elastic is wanted by the market.
The woven fabric does not easily droop when be hung and has a stable construction, a smooth cloth surface and a variety of styles and looks. These advantages make the woven fabric suitable for various cutting methods. However, compared with knitted fabric, its air permeability, hand feeling and other performances are poor.
With the rapid development of knitting technology, the loop construction of knitted fabric has made high wearability possible. Therefore, weft knitted jean fabric appears in the market. Unfortunately, although the weft knitted jean fabric has ideal weft extensibility, its poor dimensional stability fails to meet the market demand.
The construction and appearance style of warp-knitted fabric significantly differ from those of weft-knitted fabric. Warp-knitted fabric possesses merits such as less laddering, high firmness and high dimensional stability. By means of the adjustment of raw materials, weave constructions and after-finish processes, a strong visual impact of the fabric is achieved. However, the warping and weaving of warp-knitted fabric have high requirements on the strength and elongation of yarns. In production, chemical fibers are normally used instead of staple fibers (e.g., cotton fibers) for yarn spinning. Because the strength of yarns made of staple fibers is not as strong as polyester, polyamide and other chemical fibers, the mechanical properties of cotton yarn may easily be damaged due to the tension fluctuation during warping and weaving. Moreover, the yarns made of staple fibers inevitably contain filoplume and neps, and the tangling and accumulation of filoplume and neps during the warp-knitting and weaving may cause the breakage of yarn due to the blockage of yarn sleys and guide needles. As a result, the production process has high requirements on filoplume and yarn strength. It is difficult for coarse yarns and yarns made of staple fibers to meet these requirements, severely restricting the appearance style of warp-knitted fabric.
Therefore, patent PCT/CN/2019/105244 discloses a woven warp-knit-like fabric, wherein two kinds of yarns with the same or different shrinkage rates are used in the warp-backed weave, a non-elastic inner warp yarn is wound on the back of the fabric for a certain length, and an elastic surface warp yarn shrinks to enable the inner warp yarn to form loops with a certain radian on the back of the fabric. In this way, the fabric has the appearance style of a woven fabric, and also has the characteristics of good air permeability and good hand feeling of a warp-knitted fabric.
However, in the aforesaid weave construction, the surface warp yarn has high elasticity, resulting in the following problems:
Therefore, it is urgent for those skilled in the art to develop a novel weave construction.
The purpose of the present invention is to provide a novel woven warp-knit-like fabric. According to the present invention, the difficulty of warping caused by using an elastic yarn as a surface layer warp yarn is solved, a color difference during dyeing is avoided, and a manual color correction treatment becomes unnecessary.
To achieve the above purpose, the present invention adopts the following technical solution:
A novel woven warp-knit-like fabric of the present invention, comprising a first warp yarn, a second warp yarn, a third warp yarn, and a weft yarn; the first warp yarn is interwoven with the weft yarn to form a surface layer of a fabric, the second warp yarn is interwoven with the weft yarn to form a middle layer of the fabric, and the third yarn is interwoven with the weft yarn to form an inner layer of the fabric; at least three weft weave points are provided between two adjacent groups of warp weave points on the third warp yarn, and the number of each group of warp weave points is at least one; the first warp yarn is a non-elastic yarn, the third warp yarn is an elastic yarn or a non-elastic yarn, and the elastic properties of the second warp yarn are greater than those of the first warp yarn and the third warp yarn.
In another embodiment of the present invention, in the novel woven warp-knit-like fabric, 4-16 weft weave points are arranged between two adjacent groups of warp weave points on the third warp yarn.
In another embodiment of the present invention, in the novel woven warp-knit-like fabric, the arrangement ratio of the first warp yarn to the third warp yarn is 1:5-4:1, and the arrangement ratio of the first warp yarn to the second warp yarn is 1:4-3:1.
In another embodiment of the present invention, in the surface layer and middle layer of the novel woven warp-knit-like fabric, there are 1-7 warp wave points where the warp yarn and weft yarn are interwoven.
In another embodiment of the present invention, in the novel woven warp-knit-like fabric, the surface layer and middle layer are a 1/1 plain weave or the number of basic wave cycles is 3-8.
In another embodiment of the present invention, in the novel woven warp-knit-like fabric, the surface layer and middle layer are a plain weave, twill weave or satin weave.
In another embodiment of the present invention, in the novel woven warp-knit-like fabric, 7-13 weft weave points are arranged between two adjacent groups of warp weave points on the third warp yarn.
In another embodiment of the present invention, the first warp yarn is a yarn made of a staple fiber. The second warp yarn is one of an elastic core spun yarn prepared by wrapping an elastic yarn with a staple fiber, a filament yarn with elasticity, and an elastic core spun yarn prepared by wrapping an elastic yarn with a filament yarn. The third warp yarn is one of a yarn made of a staple fiber, a core spun yarn prepared by wrapping an elastic yarn with a staple fiber, and a core spun yarn prepared by wrapping a non-elastic filament yarn with a staple fiber.
In another embodiment of the present invention, when the first warp yarn or the third warp yarn is made of a staple fiber, the yarn count ranges from 6 S to 60 S. When the third warp yarn is a core spun yarn prepared by wrapping an elastic yarn with a staple fiber, the yarn count ranges from 6 S to 60 S, and the yarn count of the elastic yarn ranges from 20 D to 300 D. When the third warp yarn is a core spun yarn prepared by wrapping a non-elastic filament yarn with a staple fiber, the yarn count ranges from 6 S to 60 S. When the second warp yarn is an elastic core spun yarn prepared by wrapping an elastic yarn with a staple fiber, the whole yarn count ranges from 6 S to 60 S, and the yarn count of the elastic yarn ranges from 20 D to 300 D. When the second warp yarn is a filament yarn with elasticity, the yarn count ranges from 20 D to 450 D, and when the second warp is an elastic core spun yarn prepared by wrapping an elastic yarn with a filament yarn, the whole yarn count ranges from 40 D to 600 D, and the yarn count of the elastic yarn ranges from 20 D to 300 D.
In another embodiment of the present invention, in the novel woven warp-knit-like fabric, the English yarn count of the third warp yarn is the same as that of the first warp yarn, or the English yarn count of the third warp yarn is greater than that of the first warp yarn.
In another embodiment of the present invention, in the novel woven warp-knit-like fabric, the first warp yarn is cotton, and its yarn count ranges from 8 S to 38 S. The second warp yarn is an elastic core spun yarn prepared by wrapping an elastic yarn with a filament yarn, the whole yarn count ranges from 50 D to 150 D, and the yarn count of the elastic yarn ranges from 20 D to 105 D. The third warp yarn is made of a staple fiber, and the yarn count ranges from 16 S to 60 S. Alternatively, the third warp yarn made of a filament yarn, and the yarn count ranges from 50 D to 450 D.
Compared with the prior art, the present invention has the following advantages:
The present invention provides a novel woven warp-knit-like fabric. Through optimizing the weave construction, high quality, high strength and high filling power of the fabric are ensured. The surface of the fabric is fluffy and light, achieving good air permeability, good hand feeling and ideal wearing comfort. Because the first warp yarn adopts a non-elastic yarn, compared with the prior art, it is easier to control the yarn tension during warping while avoiding the phenomenon of reversely-twisted yarn after its breakage. Therefore, the warping becomes easier and the production efficiency becomes higher. When dyeing, the color difference caused by an excessive difference between the tensile elongation of each first warp yarn is effectively avoided. By means of this design, even if the surface of the first warp is worn, an exposure of yarn core is avoided and a manual color correction becomes unnecessary. Thus, the labor cost is significantly reduced.
To make the purpose, technical solution and effect of the present invention clearer, embodiments are combined hereinafter to elaborate the present invention. It should be understood that the specific embodiments described herein are merely used to explain but not limit the present invention.
Referring to
It is worth mentioning that, the first, second and third warp yarns are used merely for the convenience of description, which do not necessarily represent the number of warp yarns and weft yarns.
The first warp yarn 1 and the weft yarn 4 are interwoven to form a front surface of the fabric, and the front surface of the fabric may be designed according to different styles, for example, a 3/1 twill weave, which is a classical jean style. The third warp yarn 3 and the weft yarn 4 are interwoven to form a rear surface of the fabric, by means of the weft weave points continuously arranged on the rear surface, the tightness of the fabric decreases after the third warp yarn 3 and the weft yarn 4 are interwoven, and the fabric is easy to be compressed, which significantly improve the air permeability, hand feeling and filling power of the fabric. The second warp yarn 3 and the weft yarn 4 are interwoven to form a middle layer between the surface layer and the inner layer of the fabric, which makes the hand feeling good while propelling the third warp yarn to contract to form loops with a certain radian. Referring again to
In actual use, for the conventional warp-knit-like fabric with a double-weave construction, the elastic performance of the surface yarn is easily damaged due to a prolonged stress formed at knees, elbows, hips and other parts of human bodies, which directly leads to the formation of bulges, failing to achieve tight and comfortable feeling. In the three-layer construction of the present invention, the second warp yarn has elasticity, capable of providing an elastic force in the warp direction while being stretched under the elastic force. The first warp yarn does not have elasticity, and therefore when being interwoven with the weft yarn, the front surface of the fabric is tightly interwoven, so that the fabric at knees, elbows, hips and other parts is close and tight. In this way, the appearance of the fabric is not affected by the bulges caused by the variation of yarn elasticity. Especially, for parts such as hips and abdomens, due to the tightness of the front surface of the fabric and the elasticity of the second layer, the fabric of the present invention plays a good role in hip lifting and body slimming. Through adopting the present invention, the tightness and comfort of the fabric as well as the effects of hip lifting and body slimming are achieved, and the formation of bulges caused by the variation of yarn elasticity is avoided.
In some preferred embodiments, 4-16 weft weave points are arranged between two adjacent groups of warp weave points on the third warp yarn 3. Because the fabric undergoes treatments such as de-sizing, soda boiling and washing during post finishing, when weft weave points are too many, the yarn fibers that are not interwoven between the warp yarns and weft yarns become loose. Meanwhile, the increased filoplume on the yarn surface damages the yarn strength. Even worse, the yarns may be tangled together. In daily wear, the rear surface of the fabric contacts and rubs with the skin, worsening the tangling of yarns such that the appearance style and hand feeling of the fabric are severely affected. When weft-weave points are too few, the warp yarns and weft yarns on the rear surface of the fabric are tightly interwoven, so that the fabric is not easy to be stretched. As a result, some parts of human bodies are stressed and feel squeezed, resulting in poor wearing experience. In the present invention, 4-16 weft weave points are arranged between two adjacent groups of warp weave points on the third warp yarn 3, which achieves a proper tightness, effectively preventing the yarns from being tangled together.
Preferably, the arrangement ratio of the first warp yarn to the third warp yarn is 1:5-4:1, and the arrangement ratio of the first warp yarn to the second warp yarn is 1:4-3:1.
In some embodiments, the number of complete weave cycles of warp yarns of the fabric is equal to the sum of the least common multiple of the number of basic weave cycles of warp yarns and the arrangement ratio, and the number of complete weave cycles of warp yarns is equal to the least common multiple of the number of basic weave cycles of warp yarns.
In some preferred embodiments, in the surface layer and middle layer of the fabric, there are 1-7 warp wave points where the warp yarn and weft yarn are interwoven. In this way, the front surface of the fabric exhibits a woven style, endowing the fabric with an appearance of traditional jeans.
The surface layer and middle layer may adopt a plain weave, twill weave or satin weave. Specifically, the surface layer and middle layer may adopt a 1/1 plain weave or the number of basic wave cycles is 3-8.
In some preferred embodiments, 7-13 weft weave points are arranged between two adjacent groups of warp weave points on the third warp yarn. The non-elastic yarn may be any non-elastic yarns in the prior art, such as cotton yarn, chemical fiber elastic yarn, Tencel, Modal, wool yarn, Tencel cotton blended yarn and cotton Modal blended yarn, etc. The elastic yarn may be any elastic yarns in the prior art, such as a single core spun yarn and a double core spun yarn. More specifically, the elastic yarn may be cotton wrapped Lycra, cotton wrapped polyester wrapped Lycra, cotton wrapped chemical fiber elastic yarn wrapped Lycra, and cotton wrapped chemical fiber elastic yarn, etc.
Further, the first warp yarn 1 may be a yarn made of a staple fiber. The second warp yarn 2 may be one of an elastic core spun yarn prepared by wrapping an elastic yarn with a staple fiber, a filament yarn with elasticity, and an elastic core spun yarn prepared by wrapping an elastic yarn with a filament yarn. The third warp yarn 3 may be one of a yarn made of a staple fiber, a core spun yarn prepared by wrapping an elastic yarn with a staple fiber, and a core spun yarn prepared by wrapping a non-elastic filament yarn with a staple fiber. The staple fiber may be a cotton fiber, hemp fiber, Tencel, Modal, acrylic fiber, viscose, rayon, polyester, nylon and sea island filament, etc. Preferably, the staple fiber is cotton fiber.
When the first warp yarn 1 or the third warp yarn 3 is made of a staple fiber, the yarn count ranges from 6 S to 60 S. When the third warp yarn 3 is a core spun yarn prepared by wrapping an elastic yarn with a staple fiber, the yarn count ranges from 6 S to 60 S, and the yarn count of the elastic yarn ranges from 20 D to 300 D. When the third warp yarn 3 is a core spun yarn prepared by wrapping a non-elastic filament yarn with a staple fiber, the yarn count ranges from 6 S to 60 S. When the second warp yarn 2 is an elastic core spun yarn prepared by wrapping an elastic yarn with a staple fiber, the whole yarn count ranges from 6 S to 60 S, and the yarn count of the elastic yarn ranges from 20 D to 300 D. When the second warp yarn 2 is a filament yarn with elasticity, the yarn count ranges from 20 D to 450 D, and when the second warp 2 is an elastic core spun yarn prepared by wrapping an elastic yarn with a filament yarn, the whole yarn count ranges from 40 D to 600 D, and the yarn count of the elastic yarn ranges from 20 D to 300 D.
In some preferred embodiments, the English yarn count of the third warp yarn 3 is the same as that of the first warp yarn 1, or the English yarn count of the third warp yarn 3 is greater than that of the first warp yarn 1. When the average size of yarns on the rear surface of the fabric is larger than that of yarns on the front surface, the appearance style of the front surface of the fabric may be severely affected, resulting in poor wale clearness of the fabric. Therefore, the English yarn count of the third warp yarn 3 is greater than or equal to that of the first warp yarn 1 (namely, the size of the third warp yarn 3 is not greater than that of the first warp yarn 1). In this way, the wale clearness of the front surface of the fabric is further improved. For example, the first warp yarn is cotton, and its yarn count ranges from 8 S to 38 S. The second warp yarn is an elastic core spun yarn prepared by wrapping an elastic yarn with a filament yarn, the whole yarn count ranges from 50 D to 150 D, and the yarn count of the elastic yarn ranges from 20 D to 105 D. The third warp yarn is made of a staple fiber, and the yarn count ranges from 16 S to 60 S. Alternatively, the third warp yarn made of a filament yarn, and the yarn count ranges from 50 D to 450 D.
The weft yarn 4 may be a yarn made of a staple fiber or a filament yarn. When the first weft yarn is made of a staple fiber, the yarn count ranges from 6 S to 60 S, and when the weft yarn 4 is made of a filament yarn, the yarn count ranges from 40 D to 600 D. If the weft yarn has elasticity, it may be an elastic core spun yarn prepared by wrapping an elastic yarn with a staple fiber (e.g., a spandex yarn wrapped with a staple fiber) or an elastic core spun yarn prepared by wrapping an elastic yarn with a filament yarn. If the weft yarn is an elastic core spun yarn prepared by wrapping an elastic yarn with a staple fiber, the whole yarn count ranges from 6 S to 60 S, and the yarn count of the elastic yarn ranges from 20 D to 300 D. The weft yarn may be a single core spun yarn or a double core spun yarn, for example, a cotton yarn wrapped with spandex, a cotton yarn wrapped with polyester and a cotton yarn wrapped with chemical fiber elastic yarn, etc. The optional scope of the second weft yarn is the same as that of the first weft yarn.
The novel woven warp-knit-like fabric of the present invention has the following advantages:
The present invention is further described in the following embodiments:
In
The healding method adopts the a flying healding. The healding method is: 1 5 7 2 6 8 3 5 9 4 6 10 1 5 11 2 6 12 3 5 13 4 6 14, and the reed-in method is 4 in one reed.
The first warp yarn: a pure cotton yarn having a yarn count of 8 S is adopted, and the yarn color is indigo;
The second warp yarn: a yarn prepared by wrapping a 40 D spandex with a 95 D polyester is adopted;
The third warp yarn: a pure cotton yarn having a yarn count of 50 S is adopted, and the yarn color is white;
The weft yarn: a core spun yarn prepared by wrapping 40 D spandex with a 16 S pure cotton yarn is adopted;
The reed count on the warp yarn is 62 reeds (4 in);
The weft yarn weaving density is 46T;
The first warp yarn covering rate is 62/28 (8)=78%;
The third warp yarn covering rate is 62/28 (50)=31%.
After testing the performances of the novel woven warp-knit-like fabric in this embodiment after conventional post finishing, the test results are shown in the following table:
It can be seen from the above that, the air permeability of the fabric reaches 48.65 mm/s and the filling power reaches 322.26 cm3/g, achieving good air permeability and high filling power. The data in the table shows that the fabric has good elasticity and high slipping-resistance. Meanwhile, a clear twill-weave pattern, a three-dimensional sense, and tightly interwoven warp and weft yarns are achieved. The novel design of the weave construction makes the handing feeling of the fabric soft and comfortable. When touching the skin, a skin-friendly, comfortable, soft and natural feeling of the fabric is achieved.
In
The healding method adopts the a flying healding. The healding method is: 1 9 11 2 10 12 3 9 13 4 10 14 5 9 15 6 10 16 7 9 17 8 10 18, and the reed-in method is 4 in one reed.
The first warp yarn: a pure cotton slub yarn having a yarn count of 16 S is adopted, and the yarn color is indigo;
The second warp yarn: a yarn prepared by wrapping a 70 D spandex with a 50 D nylon is adopted;
The third warp yarn: a Tencel cotton yarn having a yarn count of 50 S is adopted, and the yarn color is white;
The weft yarn: a core spun yarn prepared by wrapping 70 D spandex with a 21S pure cotton yarn is adopted;
The reed count on the warp yarn is 70 reeds (4 in);
The weft yarn weaving density is 52T;
The first warp yarn covering rate is 70/28 (16)=62%;
The third warp yarn covering rate is 70/28 (50)=35%.
After testing the performances of the novel woven warp-knit-like fabric in this embodiment after conventional post finishing, the test results are shown in the following table:
It can be seen from the above that, the air permeability of the fabric reaches 36.58 mm/s and the filling power reaches 302.36 cm3/g, achieving good air permeability and high filling power. The data in the table shows that the fabric has good elasticity and high slipping-resistance. Meanwhile, a clear twill-weave pattern, a three-dimensional sense, and tightly interwoven warp and weft yarns are achieved. The novel design of the weave construction makes the handing feeling of the fabric soft and comfortable. When touching the skin, a skin-friendly, comfortable, soft and natural feeling of the fabric is achieved.
In
The first warp yarn: a pure cotton slub yarn having a yarn count of 21 S is adopted, and the yarn color is sulfur black;
The second warp yarn: a yarn prepared by wrapping a 20 D spandex with a 50 D nylon is adopted;
The third warp yarn: a Tencel cotton yarn having a yarn count of 60 S is adopted, and the yarn color is white;
The weft yarn: a core spun yarn prepared by wrapping 70 D spandex with a 26 S pure cotton yarn is adopted;
The reed count on the warp yarn is 82 reeds (4 in);
The weft yarn weaving density is 70T;
The first warp yarn covering rate is 82/28 (21)=63%;
The third warp yarn covering rate is 82/28 (60)=37%.
After testing the performances of the novel woven warp-knit-like fabric in this embodiment after conventional post finishing, the test results are shown in the following table:
It can be seen from the above that, the air permeability of the fabric reaches 35.64 mm/s and the filling power reaches 289.64 cm3/g, achieving good air permeability and high filling power. The data in the table shows that the fabric has good elasticity and high slipping-resistance. Meanwhile, a clear twill-weave pattern, a three-dimensional sense, and tightly interwoven warp and weft yarns are achieved. The novel design of the weave construction makes the handing feeling of the fabric soft and comfortable. When touching the skin, a skin-friendly, comfortable, soft and natural feeling of the fabric is achieved.
It should be understood that the present invention is not limited by the aforesaid embodiments. For those skilled in the art, improvements and modifications may be made based on the specification of the present invention. Therefore, those improvements and modifications shall fall into the scope defined by the claims of the present invention.
Number | Date | Country | Kind |
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PCT/CN2020/082430 | Mar 2020 | CN | national |
Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind |
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PCT/CN2020/082430 | 3/31/2020 | WO |