One aspect of the invention is a process for the treatment of visible and/or tactile irregularities of the human skin, comprising:
(a) applying topically onto the skin a composition comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium (i) at least one hydroxy acid selected from the α-hydroxy acids, β-hydroxy acids, α-keto acids, β-keto acids and mixtures thereof, and (ii) at least 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of one or more surfactants comprising an alkyl chain having from 6 to 16 carbon atoms, the total quantity of hydroxy acids and surfactants comprising an alkyl chain having from 6 to 16 carbon atoms being at least 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
As used herein, a surfactant comprising an alkyl chain having from 6 to 16 carbon atoms includes a surfactant having more than one alkyl chain having from 6 to 16 carbon atoms.
The process also optionally comprises:
(b) optionally leaving the composition in contact with the skin for prolonged time, and
(c) optionally removing the composition by rinsing.
The composition preferably does not include exfoliating particles such as polyethylene particles.
Preferably, the composition is left in contact with the skin for an application time which is sufficient for the composition to act. This time will vary depending on the concentration of surfactants and hydroxy acids in the composition and on the effect desired. As a guide, the composition can remain in contact with the skin or the integuments for a period of a minute or two, 5 minutes, etc., generally lying between 5 minutes and 12 hours, preferably between 5 minutes and 6 hours, preferably between 5 minutes and 30 minutes. The composition may or may not be removed at the end of this contact time. Application can be daily or twice daily, or more, or weekly, and repeated at intervals of, e.g., from 2 weeks to 6 months, it being possible to prolong or repeat this period without difficulty.
As the composition is preferably intended for topical application, it contains a physiologically acceptable medium. “Physiologically acceptable medium” is understood to mean a medium compatible with keratinous materials such as the skin, the lips, the nails, the scalp and/or the hair. The composition is in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, more particularly intended for peeling of the skin.
The medium is an aqueous medium, in other words it contains water the quantity whereof is preferably at least 15% by weight even better at least 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The quantity of water can for example range from 15 to 85% by weight or more, preferably from 20 to 80% by weight, better from 25 to 75% by weight and still better from 30 to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition preferably has a pH which can range from 1 to 9, preferably from 1 to 5 and better from 1.5 to 5.
The composition according to the invention comprises at least 5% by weight of one or more surfactants containing at least one alkyl chain having from 6 to 16 carbon atoms, and preferably from 6 to 14 carbon atoms.
The surfactant or mixture of surfactants preferably has (have) an HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance) greater than 8, preferably an HLB of at least 9. Surfactants having an HLB less than or equal to 8 can also be used, especially when one or more other surfactants are added thereto so that the HLB of the mixture is greater than 8.
The surfactants used according to the present invention can be selected from the nonionic, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof. They can be obtained from alcohols, acids, amines, amides, alkyl glycerols and from any group containing at least one alkyl chain ranging from C6 to C16, preferably from C6 to C14.
The polar part of these surfactants can be nonionic, anionic, cationic and amphoteric or zwitterionic.
The nonionic surfactants can for example be selected from surfactants containing a group selected for example from the polyalkylene glycol groups such as in particular polyethylene glycol or polypropylene glycol, polyglycerol groups, sugar groups (glucose, maltose, sorbitol, ethoxylated sorbitan), and mixtures thereof.
The anionic surfactants can for example be selected from surfactants containing a group selected for example from the sulphate, sulphonate and phosphate groups, amino acid such as glycinate, glutamate and derivatives of these amino acids, in particular salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
The cationic surfactants can for example be selected from surfactants containing for example a quaternary ammonium group.
The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants can for example be selected from surfactants containing for example the amphoacetate, amphodiacetate, betaine or sultaine groups.
The composition can contain a mixture of these different sorts of surfactants.
When the composition has a pH less than or equal to 2, the surfactants used in the composition of the invention preferably do not contain an ester or amide bond.
As nonionic surfactants, for example the following can be cited:
Preferably, the composition is free from ethers of polyethylene glycol and alcohols such as the Laureth.
As anionic surfactants, the following can for example be cited:
wherein:
X represents hydrogen or an inorganic or organic cation such as those derived from an alkali metal (for example Na+ or K+), NH4+, ammonium ions derived from basic amino acids such as lysine, arginine, sarcosine, ornithine, citrulline or else amino alcohols such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, glucamine, N-methyl glucamine and 3-amino-1,2-propanediol. Preferred 2-hydroxy alkyl ether carboxylic acids are compounds of the formula (I) wherein R1 more particularly represents a mixture of C8-C16 groups, in particular derived from copra. Among the surfactants of formula (I), the product marketed under the name BEAULIGHT SHAA by the company SANYO may in particular be cited;
The cationic surfactants utilisable according to the present invention can in particular be salts of primary, secondary or tertiary amines, containing one C6 to C16 alkyl chain, which may be polyalkoxylated, quaternary ammonium salts, imidazoline derivatives or amine oxides of a cationic nature.
In the quaternary ammonium salts, the anion is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkylsulphate, more particularly a methylsulphate. However, quaternary ammonium salts wherein the anion is a methanesulphonate, a phosphate, a nitrate, a tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with the ammonium ion with ester group can be utilized. Still more particularly, the anion is chloride or methylsulphate.
Among the quaternary ammonium salts, the following can in particular be cited:
The amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants can for example be selected from the derivatives of betaine, and in particular the alkyl derivatives of betaine, the alkylamidopropylbetaines, alkylamphoacetates, hydroxy-sultaines, and mixtures thereof.
As betaine derivatives, in particular alkylbetaines containing a C6-C16, and more particularly C6-C14, alkyl group and ethoxylated derivatives thereof of these alkylbetaines, for example cocobetaine such as the product marketed under the name DEHYTON AB-30® by the company Cognis, laurylbetaine such as the product marketed under the name GENAGEN KB® by the company Clariant, ethoxylated (10 EO) laurylbetaine, such as the product marketed under the name LAURYLETHER(10 EO)BETAINE® by the company Shin Nihon Rica, and ethoxylated (10 EO) stearylbetaine such as the product marketed under the name STEARYLETHER(10 EO)BETAINE® by the company Shin Nihon Rica can be cited.
As alkylamidopropylbetaines, for example C6-C16 alkyl-amidopropyl betaines such as the cocamidopropyl betaine marketed for example under the name VELVETEX BK 35® by Cognis or else the undecylenamidopropyl betaine marketed for example under the name AMPHORAM U® by Ceca can be cited.
As alkylamphoacetates, for example C6-C16 alkyl-amphoacetates such as N-disodium N-cocoyl-N-carboxy-methoxyethyl-N-carboxy-methylethylenediamine (INCI name: disodium cocamphodiacetate) such as the product marketed under the name MIRANOL C2M CONCENTRE NP® by the company Rhodia Chimie, and N-sodium N-cocoyl-N-hydroxyethyl-N-carboxymethylethylenediamine (INCI name: sodium cocamphoacetate).
The composition utilized in the process according to the present invention comprises a quantity of surfactant(s), which can be adjusted in accordance with the depth of the peeling which has to be performed. This quantity is at least 5% by weight and preferably at least 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. It can range from 5 to 70% by weight, preferably from 10 to 60% by weight and better from 15 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to the invention comprises one or more hydroxy acids selected from the α-hydroxy acids, β-hydroxy acids, α-keto acids, β-keto acids and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred mode of implementation of the invention, the hydroxy acids are selected from the α-hydroxy acids and the α-keto acids, and mixtures thereof.
More particularly, the following can be cited as examples of α-hydroxy acids: citric acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, mandelic acid, methyllacetic acid, glucuronic acid, pyruvic acid, phenyllactic acid, gluconic acid, galacturonic acid and mixtures thereof.
More particularly the following can be cited as examples of β-hydroxy acids: salicylic aid and derivatives thereof, in particular derivatives of the following formula (I) or a salt of such a derivative:
wherein:
—O—CO—R4
wherein R4 is a saturated or unsaturated aliphatic group, containing from 1 to 26 carbon atoms, and preferably from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, an amine or thiol group which may be substituted with an alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and preferably from 1 to 12 carbon atoms,
—(O)n—(CO)m—R5
wherein n and m, independently of one another, are each a whole number equal to 0 or 1, on condition that R2 and R3 are not simultaneously hydrogen atoms;
Preferably, the salicylic acid derivative of formula (I) is such that R1 represents a hydroxyl group, R2 represents a hydrogen atom and R3 is in the 5 position of the benzene nucleus and represents a —CO—R5 group where R5 represents a saturated aliphatic group containing from 3 to 15 carbon atoms.
According to a preferred mode of implementation of the invention, the salicylic acid derivative of formula (I) is selected from 5-n-octanoylsalicylic, 5-n-decanoyl-salicylic, 5-n-dodecanoylsalicylic, 5-n-octylsalicylic, 5-n-heptyloxysalicylic, 4-n-heptyloxysalicylic, 5-tert-octylsalicylic, 3-tert-butyl-5-methylsalicylic, 3-tert-butyl-6-methylsalicylic, 3,5-diisopropylsalicylic, 5-butoxysalicylic, 5-octyloxysalicylic, propanoyl-5-salicylic, 5-n-hexadecanoyl-5-salicylic, 5-n-oleoyl-salicylic and 5-benzoylsalicylic acids, monovalent and divalent salts thereof and mixtures thereof. More particularly, it is 5-n-octanoylsalicylic (INCI name: Capryloyl salicylic Acid).
More particularly, the following can be cited as examples of α-keto acids: ascorbic acid (or vitamin C), and the ascorbyl glucosides. “Ascorbyl glucoside” is understood to mean the product of condensation of glucose, in the D form, that is to say in the form of α or β glucopyranose or α or β furanose, or in the L form, with ascorbic acid, preferably in the L form. More specifically, L-ascorbic acid 2-O-α-D-glucopyranoside (INCI name: Ascorbyl Glucoside), available from the company Hayashibara, can be cited.
The quantity of hydroxy acid(s) used depends on the desired aim. It can for example range from 5 to 70% by weight, preferably from 10 to 70% by weight and better from 10 to 60% by weight and still better from 10 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to the invention, the total quantity of hydroxy acids and surfactants containing one alkyl chain having from 6 to 16 carbon atoms is at least 15% by weight, preferably at least 20% by weight, better at least 25% by weight and still better at least 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This total quantity can range for example from 15 to 85% by weight, preferably from 20 to 80% by weight, better from 25 to 75% by weight and still better from 30 to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to the invention can be applied by any way enabling a uniform distribution on the skin, and in particular with the aid of fingers, cotton wool, a rod, a brush, a gauze, a spatula or a pad, or else by powdering, and it may or may not be removed. It can for example be removed by rinsing with water or simple wiping.
The compositions according to the invention can take any form, including all the galenical forms normally utilized in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, including in particular in the form of aqueous gels, lotions or emulsions. These compositions are prepared in accordance with the usual methods. According to a preferred mode of implementation of the invention, the composition takes the form of an aqueous, hydroalcoholic or hydroglycolic gel, or an aqueous, alcoholic or hydroglycolic solution.
When the composition according to the invention contains an oily phase, in particular when it is in the form of an emulsion, the oily phase preferably contains at least one oil, in particular a physiologically acceptable oil. It can further contain other fatty substances.
As oils utilizable in the composition of the invention, the following can for example be cited:
In the list of oils cited above, “hydrocarbon oil” is understood to mean any oil mainly containing carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly ester, ether, fluorinated, carboxylic acid and/or alcohol groups.
The other fatty substances which can be present in the oily phase are for example fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic and oleic acid, waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, Carnauba or Candellila wax, paraffin or lignite waxes or microcrystalline waxes, ceresine or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes, silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-C1-4 alkyldimethicone and trifluoro-propyldimethicone, and silicone elastomers such as the products marketed under the names “KSG” by the company Shin-Etsu, under the names “Trefil”, “BY29” or “EPSX” by the company Dow Corning or under the names “Gransil” by the company Grant Industries.
These fatty substances can be selected in various ways by the person skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example of consistency or texture.
When the composition is in the form of an emulsion, it is preferably a water-in-oil (O/W) emulsion. The emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier selected in particular from the amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or mixed. They are preferably nonionic emulsifiers. These emulsifiers are selected from those typically used in the cosmetic field.
Emulsions can also be prepared without emulsifying surfactants or with a content thereof of less than 0.5% of the total weight of the composition, by using appropriate compounds, for example polymers having emulsifying properties such as the polymers marketed under the names Carbopol 1342 and Pemulen by the company Noveon, or the polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulphonic acid, which may be crosslinked and/or neutralized, such as the poly-(2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulphonic acid) marketed by the company CLARIANT under the name “Hostacerin AMPS” (INCI name: ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide) or such as the emulsion polymer marketed under the name Sepigel 305 by the company Seppic (INCI name: Polyacrylamide/C13-C14 isoparaffin/laureth-7), particles of ionic or nonionic polymers, more particularly particles of anionic polymer such as in particular polymers of isophthalic acid or sulphoisophthalic acid, and in particular phthalate/sulphoisophthalate/glycol copolymers (for example diethylene glycol/phthalate/isophthalate/1,4-cyclohexane-dimethanol (INCI name: Diglycol/CHDM/isophthalates/SIP Copolymer) sold under the names Eastman AQ polymer (AQ35S, AQ38S, AQ55S, AQ48 Ultra) by the company Eastman Chemical.
Emulsions with no emulsifiers, stabilised by silicone particles or particles of metal oxide such as TiO2 or the like, coated or uncoated, can also be prepared.
In a known manner, the composition of the invention can also contain additives such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophobic or hydrophilic active substances, preservatives (for example phenoxyethanol and parabens), antioxidants, solvents, perfumes, fillers, bactericides, odour absorbers, colourant materials, and pH adjusters (acid or base or buffer). The quantities of these different additives are those normally used in the field in question, and for example are from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. Depending on their nature, these additives can be introduced in the oily phase, in the aqueous phase, or dissolved in the surfactants.
Of course, the person skilled in the art will take care to select any additive or additives to add to the composition according to the invention, and the quantities thereof, in such a manner that the advantageous properties intrinsically attaching to the to the composition according to the invention are not, or essentially not, impaired by the intended addition.
According to a particular mode of implementation of the invention, the composition contains at least one hydrophilic, in other words water-soluble or water-dispersible, polymer. As hydrophilic polymers, the following may in particular be cited:
The quantity of hydrophilic polymer(s) can for example range from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight and better from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Moreover, the composition can also contain at least one water-soluble hydroxyl compound selected from the C2-C6 and preferably C2-C4 monohydric alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, and polyols containing from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, such as glycerine, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, isopropylene glycol and mixtures thereof. The quantity of hydroxyl compound(s) can for example range from 0.1 to 70% by weight, better from 1 to 65% by weight and still better from 1 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
When the composition is hydroalcoholic, it contains water and at least one monohydric alcohol, and when the composition is hydroglycolic, it contains water and at least one polyol. It can of course simultaneously contain alcohols and polyols.
The composition can also contain any active substance, such as for example urea and hydroxyl derivatives thereof such as the N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-urea marketed under the name hydrovance by the company National Starch, hyaluronic acid, hydrating polymers such as acrylic polymers with a phosphorylcholine group such as:
The composition can also contain other active substances such as vitamins such as vitamins A, C, E, B3, B5 and K and derivatives thereof, in particular esters thereof, and sequestrants such as EDTA.
As fillers, the composition of the invention can for example contain mineral particles such as clays, silicas, metal oxides such as titanium dioxide or zinc oxide, mica and/or organic fillers such as polyamide (Nylon) particles and in particular those sold under the names ORGASOL by the company Atochem, latexes, polyethylene powders, microspheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as those of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer sold by the company Dow Corning under the name of POLYTRAP, microspheres of polymethyl methacrylate, marketed under the name MICROSPHERE M-100 by the company Matsumoto or under the name COVABEAD LH85 by the company Wackherr; ethylene-acrylate copolymer powders, such as those marketed under the name FLOBEADS by the company Sumitomo Seika Chemicals; expanded powders such as hollow microspheres and in particular, the microspheres formed of a vinylidene chloride, acrylonitrile and methacrylate terpolymer and marketed under the name EXPANCEL by the company Kemanord Plast, powders of natural organic materials such as starch powders, in particular maize, wheat or rice powders, whether or not crosslinked, such as the starch powders crosslinked with octenylsuccinic anhydride, marketed under the name DRY-FLO by the company National Starch, silicone resin microbeads such as those marketed under the name TOSPEARL by the company Toshiba Silicone, in particular TOSPEARL 240, and mixtures thereof. The quantity of filler(s) can for example range from 0.05 to 20% by weight and better 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
As previously indicated, this composition is preferably intended for use in a peeling process for the purpose of attenuating visible and/or tactile irregularities of the skin, and in particular for attenuating wrinkles and minor wrinkles and/or pigment spots and/or scars, in particular the marks from acne and/or to clear the pores of the skin and impart more lustre to the skin. The composition can therefore be applied in particular to the face and/or the neck and/or the neck and shoulders and/or the hands and/or the back.
In order to optimize its effects, the peeling process according to the invention preferably includes additional stages of preparation of the skin for the peeling and/or care for the skin after peeling by means of compositions containing lower quantities of active substances than the peeling composition described above.
The implementation of the above preliminary stage also makes it possible to detect any allergy to the active substances and to improve the effectiveness and the uniformity of the peeling.
Thus, according to a particular implementation mode, the process according to the invention includes, in addition to the stages mentioned above:
The compositions utilized in these preliminary and supplementary stages can be applied morning and evening, for example, possibly in combination with a composition intended to protect the skin against the effects of UV. The pretreatment composition can be applied for one to four weeks and the post-treatment composition for one day to eight weeks, for example.
The process according to the invention, including the possible preliminary and supplementary stages, can be implemented a single time or repeated up to five times, if necessary, the peeling sessions preferably being separated by one to eight weeks.
The invention will now be illustrated by the following non-limiting examples. In these examples, the quantities are indicated in percentage by weight of active substance:
The surfactants of the invention were dissolved in water, or, when the surfactants were in aqueous solution, these solutions were simply diluted. The hydroxy acids were dissolved in the surfactant solution.
The compositions obtained were utilized according to the procedure described above.
Example 5 has a pH less than 2.
An in vitro test was performed to determine the effectiveness of Example 5 according to the invention in comparison with a composition with no surfactant, containing 30% of glycolic acid and 70% of water. The number of horny cells liberated after application of the composition according to the invention was about 370/μl, whereas it was about 40/μl for the composition with no surfactant, which shows that the combination according to the invention has a much greater effectiveness than a composition from the prior art.
The above written description of the invention provides a manner and process of making and using it such that any person skilled in this art is enabled to make and use the same, this enablement being provided in particular for the subject matter of the appended claims, which make up a part of the original description and including a process for the treatment of visible and/or tactile irregularities of the human skin, comprising:
(a) applying topically onto the skin a composition comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium (i) at least one hydroxy acid selected from the α-hydroxy acids, β-hydroxy acids, α-keto acids, β-keto acids and mixtures thereof, and (ii) at least 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of one or more surfactants containing an alkyl chain having from 6 to 16 carbon atoms, the total quantity of hydroxy acids and surfactants containing one alkyl chain having from 6 to 16 carbon atoms being at least 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and optionally:
(b) leaving the composition in contact with the skin for a sufficient time for the composition to act, and optionally:
(c) removing the composition by rinsing.
As used herein, the phrases “selected from the group consisting of,” “chosen from,” and the like include mixtures of the specified materials. Terms such as “contain(s)” and the like as used herein are open terms meaning ‘including at least’ unless otherwise specifically noted. Phrases such as “mention may be made,” “the following can for example be cited,” etc. preface examples of materials that can be used and do not limit the invention to the specific materials, etc., listed.
All references, patents, applications, tests, standards, documents, publications, brochures, texts, articles, etc. mentioned herein are incorporated herein by reference. Where a numerical limit or range is stated, the endpoints are included. Also, all values and subranges within a numerical limit or range are specifically included as if explicitly written out.
The above description is presented to enable a person skilled in the art to make and use the invention, and is provided in the context of a particular application and its requirements. Various modifications to the preferred embodiments will be readily apparent to those skilled in the art, and the generic principles defined herein may be applied to other embodiments and applications without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. Thus, this invention is not intended to be limited to the embodiments shown, but is to be accorded the widest scope consistent with the principles and features disclosed herein. In this regard, certain embodiments within the invention may not show every benefit of the invention, considered broadly.
Number | Date | Country | Kind |
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06 53429 | Aug 2006 | FR | national |
This application claims priority to U.S. provisional application 60/840,957 filed Aug. 30, 2006, and to French patent application 0653429 filed Aug. 23, 2006, both incorporated herein by reference.
Number | Date | Country | |
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60840957 | Aug 2006 | US |