Patent Application
20150328122
This invention relates to a personal care composition comprising a natural film-forming biopolymer. Particularly, the invention relates to a personal care composition for application to a keratinous substrate such as human hair. Methods of making and applying the composition are also disclosed.
Personal care compositions incorporate a variety of polymers to provide aesthetic and feel benefits to consumers. Typically, personal care compositions such as hair styling products are based on synthetic polymers and synthetic copolymers including, but not limited to, poly(vinylpyrrolidone), polyquaternium-11, and polyquaternium-16. Polyquaternium-10 is also extensively used, which is based on plant-derived starch, but is subsequently significantly modified through synthetic chemical processes. The above-noted polymers therefore usually contain at least one key component part of their structure that is ultimately derived from petrochemical precursors. These polymers and copolymers are generally water and/or ethanol soluble and provide properties such as hold and film formation. In recent years, development of new synthetic polymers has enhanced overall product performance and benefit efficacy.
In view of the rapid worldwide depletion of petrochemical feedstocks, attention has increasingly turned to the use of natural biopolymers or naturally derived polymers that would offer a more sustainable future. Natural biopolymers are polymers that are derived directly from plant or animal matter, insofar as the biopolymer is extracted from plant or animal matter in the general form in which it occurs in planta or in vivo (e.g. cellulose, starch, alginic acid, pectin, chitin). Naturally derived polymers are polymers that are derived indirectly from plant or animal matter, insofar the polymer is synthesised or derived from chemicals extracted or produced from plant or animal matter (e.g. polylactic acid). Despite developments in the synthetic polymer space, research in the natural polymer space has been comparatively limited.
In addition to polyquaternium-10, current natural and naturally-derived alternatives to these products are also largely based on corn starch and modified corn starch. However, the existing natural and naturally-derived polymers exhibit major disadvantages including lack of ethanol solubility, opaque film formation and leave a starchy feel on the hair. Furthermore, they are generally expensive and therefore limit commercial formulation possibilities. Polyquaternium-10 is used extensively in the cosmetics industry in hair styling products and is prepared by derivatisation of starch with N-(2,3-epoxypropyl)-N,N,N-trimethylammonium chloride (glytac A) to make hydroxypropyltriammonium starch. Although polyquaternium-10 is synthesised from a naturally occurring source, the use of glytac A in its preparation presents problems from an environmental and toxicological perspective as there is evidence which demonstrates glytac A is an Ames test positive carcinogen.
In addition to polyquaternium-10, the prior art discloses a number of personal care compositions incorporating naturally-derived polymers and processes to prepare the same. EP948960 describes a process for derivatisation of corn starch to prepare a non-ionically modified starch product wherein the starch may be additionally hydrolyzed. In the process corn starch is treated with alkali and then modified with up to 15% propylene oxide. It is reported that the use of such starches provides a clear solution with a low viscosity, and good pump spray characteristics. Further, the disclosure in EP948960 asserts that the resultant composition provides a clear film which is not tacky, has good stiffness and improved humidity resistance.
AkzoNobel/National Starch market a polymer called AMAZE®. In terms of hair styling performance, when used on its own AMAZE® exhibits good initial strength and excellent film flexibility, which makes it a reliable choice for creating styling formulations that provide a more natural, flexible, long-lasting hold.
Cationic polyelectrolytes are used as hair-fixative polymers and preferred gellants are anionic polyelectrolytes. However, successfully combining the properties of cationic and anionic polyelectrolytes is difficult to achieve because mixing solutions of cationic and anionic polyelectrolytes usually causes the two polymers to interact and separate from solution as a complex.
US20060183822 describes the use of a polyampholyte as one of the components, which is a polymer that contains both cationic and anionic groups on the same molecule. In this context, styling and/or fixing can be obtained simultaneously with good hair disentangling and feel by combining hair fixative polymers with an amphoteric starch; e.g. starch modified by (2-chloroethyl) aminodipropionic acid as described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,017,460, or other modifications as described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,455,340.
Other natural biopolymers include chitin and chitosan which are abundantly available in nature, but tend to be limited with regard to their solubility properties. Chitin in particular is difficult to formulate in personal care compositions without significant derivatisation. Such compounds therefore typically require further significant chemical modification to enhance their utility.
DE19619111 describes the use of a modified chitin in hair styling products. Chitin 6-O-substituted with C2-20 straight- or branched-chain α-hydroxyalkyl groups is a film-forming polymer useful in cosmetic compositions for setting the hair. These chitin derivatives are water soluble, do not form excessive residues on the hair, are compatible with cationic and anionic polymers, are biodegradable, and impart a natural feel to the hair. They can also be used as thickening and gel-forming agents. Thus, refluxing chitin with NaOH and propylene oxide produces hydroxypropylchitin which can be delivered from an aerosol can with butane (92:8) for use as a hair-setting foam.
DE19857546, DE19531145, DE19524125, DE92-4234743, WO2009006210, WO2009006212 and WO0025734 all disclose the use of chitosan in hair styling preparations. The greater water solubility (at acidic pH) of chitosan in comparison with chitin offers greater possibilities for the use of the unmodified polymer in cosmetic formulations. Water-soluble chitosan salts can be incorporated into compositions having excellent properties for fixing hair, and form hard, non-adhesive films which can exchange water vapour with the atmosphere surrounding them without altering their properties. It has been reported that the concentration of chitosan salts necessary for fixing hair is comparatively lower (ca. 1% weight of formulation) than that of conventional resins (ca. 3%).
Despite the existence of personal care compositions comprising natural biopolymers or naturally derived polymers there are needed additional alternatives in order to satisfy the demand for sustainable ingredients in such products. With this objective in mind, there is an increasing desire for personal care compositions with principal ingredients that are not ultimately derived from petrochemical precursors. Furthermore, there is a need for a personal care composition which successfully incorporates a natural biopolymer, without covalent chemical modification, whilst still exhibiting the desired properties of applicability, hold, adhesion, transparency and washability following application to a keratinous substrate.
The present invention relates to a personal care composition comprising a natural film-forming biopolymer for application to a keratinous substrate and particularly a personal care composition for application to human hair. A natural biopolymer in the context of the invention is one which is derived directly from plant or animal matter.
Thus in a first aspect of the invention, there is provided a personal care composition comprising a natural film-forming biopolymer and a water-containing solvent wherein said composition can further comprise a compound containing an amine moiety which may optionally be quaternised to form a compound containing a quaternary ammonium moiety. Advantageously, the composition of the invention includes a compound containing an amine moiety or a quaternary ammonium moiety in addition to the biopolymer in order to enable the formation of films with high clarity. This is in contrast to personal care compositions of the prior art that incorporate starch-based polymers whereby opaque films are formed which are considered undesirable to consumers. Furthermore, the presence of the compound containing an amine moiety or a quaternary ammonium moiety improves the hydration of the biopolymer.
In an embodiment of the invention, said biopolymer comprises a polysaccharide. In an embodiment, said biopolymer comprises a polysaccharide containing acidic moieties. Particularly, said polysaccharide comprises carboxylic acid moieties. In an embodiment, the biopolymer comprises a polysaccharide containing uronic acids selected from the group consisting of: α-L-guluronic acid, β-D-mannuronic acid and α-D-galacturonic acid.
In one embodiment of the invention, said biopolymer comprises α-L-guluronic acid units and β-D-mannuronic acid units.
In another embodiment of the invention, said biopolymer comprises α-D-galacturonic acid.
In an embodiment, said biopolymer is alginic acid or pectin and derivatives thereof. Derivatives of alginic acid or pectin include, but are not limited to, salts or solvates of said alginic acid or pectin species.
In an embodiment, said biopolymer reacts with said compound containing an amine moiety or said compound containing a quaternary ammonium moiety to form a salt.
In an embodiment, said compound containing an amine moiety is an alkylamine, a hydroxyalkylamine or an amino acid. In some embodiments said compound containing an amine moiety is an alkylamine, a hydroxyalkylamine or a proteinogenic amino acid or derivative thereof. A proteinogenic amino acid can be defined as an amino acid which is a precursor to a protein. This is in contrast to a non-proteinogenic amino acid which is not incorporated in proteins.
In an embodiment, said compound containing an amine moiety is selected from the group consisting of: an amine, diamine, triamine, polyamine, aminoalcohol, diaminoalcohol, triaminoalcohol and polyaminoalcohol.
In an embodiment, said compound containing an amine moiety is selected from the group consisting of: a primary amine, secondary amine, tertiary amine, primary aminoalcohol, secondary aminoalcohol and tertiary aminoalcohol, wherein said primary aminoalcohol, secondary aminoalcohol, tertiary aminoalcohol have the general structure according to Formula (I), Formula (II) or Formula (III):
wherein R1 to R12 are each independently selected from the group consisting of: H, C1-12 alkyl, aryl, C1-12 alkyl aryl, and C1-12 heteroalkyl wherein said C1-12 heteroalkyl contains one of more heteroatoms selected from oxygen, nitrogen or sulphur; and m, n and o are each independently an integer from 0 to 14.
In an embodiment, said compound containing an amine moiety is selected from the group consisting of: ethanolamine, ethanolamine derivatives, triethanolamine, triethanolamine derivatives, aminomethylpropanol, aminomethylpropanol derivatives, isopropanolamine, isopropanolamine derivatives, ethylene diamine, ethylene diamine derivatives, propylene diamine, propylene diamine derivatives, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid and salts of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid.
In an embodiment, said compound containing an amine moiety is triethanolamine or 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol.
In another embodiment, said compound containing an amine moiety is arginine, histidine, proline, glycine or lysine and derivatives thereof wherein said derivatives of arginine, histidine, proline, glycine or lysine include salts, zwitterions, polymers, esters or amides.
In some embodiments, said compound containing an amine moiety is an amino acid and derivatives thereof, wherein the amino acid has the general structure according to Formula (IV):
wherein R1 and R2 are each independently selected from the group consisting of: H, C1-12 alkyl, aryl (e.g. phenyl), C1-12 alkyl aryl and C1-12 heteroalkyl wherein said C1-12 heteroalkyl contains one or more heteroatoms selected from oxygen, nitrogen or sulphur and wherein X+ is a counter ion. In an embodiment X+ can be hydrogen.
In an embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises said biopolymer in an amount of about 0.1% to about 15% by weight of the composition. In another embodiment the composition of the invention comprises said biopolymer in an amount of about 0.1% to about 10% by weight of the composition and in other embodiments in an amount of about 0.1% to about 5% by weight of the composition.
In an embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises said compound containing an amine moiety or said compound containing a quaternary ammonium moiety in an amount of about 0.1% to about 3% by weight of the composition.
In an embodiment the compound containing a quaternary ammonium moiety is selected from the group consisting of: choline hydroxide, betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, {[3-(Dodecanoylamino)propyl](dimethyl)ammonio}acetate and carnitine.
In an embodiment said compound containing a quaternary ammonium moiety has the general structure according to Formula (V):
wherein R1 to R4 are each independently selected from the group consisting of: H, C1-12 alkyl, aryl (e.g. phenyl), C1-12 alkyl aryl and C1-12 heteroalkyl wherein said C1-12 heteroalkyl contains one or more heteroatoms selected from oxygen, nitrogen or sulphur; R5 to R7 are each independently selected from the group consisting of: C1-12 alkyl, aryl (e.g. phenyl), C1-12 alkyl aryl and C1-12 heteroalkyl wherein said C1-12 heteroalkyl contains one or more heteroatoms selected from oxygen, nitrogen or sulphur; n is an integer from 0 to 14 and X− is a counter ion. In an embodiment X− is a hydroxide anion.
In an embodiment said compound containing a quaternary ammonium moiety has the general structure according to Formula (VI):
wherein R1 and R2 are each independently selected from the group consisting of: H, C1-12 alkyl, aryl (e.g. phenyl), C1-12 alkyl aryl and C1-12 heteroalkyl wherein said C1-12 heteroalkyl contains one or more heteroatoms selected from oxygen, nitrogen or sulphur; R3 to R5 are each independently selected from the group consisting of: C1-12 alkyl, aryl (e.g. phenyl), C1-12 alkyl aryl and C1-12 heteroalkyl wherein said C1-12 heteroalkyl contains one or more heteroatoms selected from oxygen, nitrogen or sulphur and n is an integer from 1 to 3.
In an embodiment said compound containing a quaternary ammonium moiety has the general structure according to Formula (VII):
wherein R1 to R6 are each independently selected from the group consisting of: H, C1-12 alkyl, aryl (e.g. phenyl), C1-12 alkyl aryl and C1-12 heteroalkyl wherein said C1-12 heteroalkyl contains one or more heteroatoms selected from oxygen, nitrogen or sulphur; R7 to R9 are each independently selected from the group consisting of: C1-12 alkyl, aryl (e.g. phenyl), C1-12 alkyl aryl and C1-12 heteroalkyl wherein said C1-12 heteroalkyl contains one or more heteroatoms selected from oxygen, nitrogen or sulphur; and n is an integer from 0 to 4.
In certain embodiments of the invention the solvent of the composition is an alcohol/water mixture. In an embodiment, said mixture comprises at least 15% alcohol by weight of the composition. In other embodiments, said mixture comprises at least 20% alcohol by weight of the composition. In further embodiments, said mixture may respectively comprise at least 30%, at least 40% or at least 50% alcohol by weight of the composition.
In an embodiment, said mixture comprises 30% to 60% alcohol by weight of the composition. In other embodiments, said mixture comprises 40% to 60% alcohol by weight of the composition. In other embodiments, said mixture comprises about 45% to about 55% by weight of the composition and in further embodiments said mixture comprises about 50% to about 55% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, compositions of the invention advantageously contain higher proportions of ethanol as part of the solvent system than natural biopolymer-based personal care compositions of the prior art.
In embodiments wherein the solvent of the composition comprises an alcohol/water mixture, the alcohol may be a monohydric alcohol. In some embodiments, the alcohol has a boiling point of less than 100° C. In certain embodiments, the alcohol is ethanol.
In an embodiment, said composition comprises at least 20% water by weight of the composition. In other embodiments, said composition comprises at least 30% water by weight of the composition. In some embodiments said composition comprises at least 40% water by weight of the composition.
In other embodiments, said composition comprises at least 90% water by weight of the composition.
In an embodiment, said composition is substantially free from synthetic polymers or petrochemically derived polymers. In this context, the term “synthetic polymers” refers to any polymer that cannot be found in nature and can only be obtained via chemical synthesis. Petrochemically derived polymers contain at least one key component part of their structure that is ultimately derived from petrochemical precursors.
In an embodiment, said composition may further comprise one or more ingredients selected from the group consisting of: preservatives (e.g. sodium benzoate, phenoxyethanol, methylisothiazolinone), conditioning polymers (e.g. ethylhexylglycerin, niacinamide, panthenol), thickeners (e.g. carbomer, xanthan gum), electrolytes (e.g. sodium chloride, sodium sulfate), emulsifiers (e.g. PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, butylene glycol palmitate), pH adjusting agents (e.g. triethanolamine, citric acid), perfuming agents (e.g. hydroxyisohexyl 3-cyclohexene carboxaldehyde, linalool, geraniol), sequestering agents (e.g. EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA), emollients (e.g. dimethicone, diisopropyl adipate), humectants (e.g. glycerin, lactic acid), lubricants (e.g. beeswax, paraffin), protein derivatives (e.g. hydrolyzed wheat protein, sericin), ethylene adducts (e.g. ethylene oxide), UV filters (e.g. ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, benzophenone-4), volatile and non-volatile silicone fluids (e.g. cyclopentasiloxane, phenyl trimethicone), and isoparaffins (e.g. C11-12 isoparaffin, C18-70 isoparaffin).
In an embodiment of the invention said composition is suitable for application to a keratinous substrate. In certain embodiments said keratinous substrate is human hair.
In a second aspect of the invention there is provided the use of the composition of the first aspect of the invention as a hair fixative.
In a third aspect of the invention there is provided a method of making the personal care composition according to the first aspect of the invention comprising the steps of:
In some embodiments, the method further comprises the step:
In a fourth aspect of the invention there is provided a method for styling hair comprising the steps of:
Throughout this specification wherever the term “by weight” is used with reference to the composition of the invention, this is to be understood as referring to the weight percentage as based on the total weight of the composition unless otherwise stated.
Embodiments of the invention are further described hereinafter with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which:
The personal care composition of the invention comprises a natural film-forming biopolymer and a water-containing solvent. The natural film-forming biopolymer can be directly derived from plant or animal matter such that it can be provided for use in said personal care composition without need for covalent chemical modification. Typically the biopolymer comprises a polysaccharide composed of uronic acid units. In some embodiments of the invention the biopolymer comprises polysaccharides selected from the group consisting of: α-L-guluronic acid, β-D-mannuronic acid and α-D-galacturonic acid.
In an embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises said biopolymer in an amount of about 0.1% to about 15% by weight of the composition. In another embodiment the composition of the invention comprises said biopolymer in an amount of about 0.1% to about 10% by weight of the composition and in other embodiments in an amount of about 0.1% to about 5% by weight of the composition.
The personal care composition of the invention can further comprise a compound containing an amine moiety or a compound containing a quaternary ammonium moiety. The inclusion of such a compound can ensure that films formed by the composition have a high clarity. This is in contrast to starch-based polymers used in personal care compositions of the prior art which produce opaque films. Opacity can often be a particularly undesirable property for personal care compositions such as hair styling products as consumers typically prefer products which exhibit clear films.
In some embodiments of the invention, the film-forming biopolymer of the invention is alginic acid. Alginic acid is a polysaccharide of (1-4)-linked β-D-mannuronate and α-L-guluronate (see
Examples of botanical sources of alginic acid are Ascophyllum nodosum, Laminaria spp., Macrocystis pyrifera, Sargassum spp., and Undaria pinnatifida. Investigations have shown (Haug, A et al. Carbohydr. Res. 1974, 32, 217 and Grasdalen, H. et al. Carbohydr. Res. 1981, 89, 179) that the polymer chain of alginic acid is made up of three kinds of regions or blocks, namely G blocks, M blocks and MG blocks. The G blocks contain only units derived from α-L-guluronic acid, the M blocks are based entirely on β-D-mannuronic acid and the MG blocks consist of alternating units of α-L-guluronic acid and β-D-mannuronic acid (see
Throughout this disclosure wherever the term “alginate” is used, this is to be understood as referring to alginic acid, of molecular weight typically between 5,000 to 800,000 g/mol and/or salts of said alginic acid. In some embodiments of the invention said alginic acid can thus be of molecular weight between 5,000 to 800,000 g/mol.
It has been shown that the physical properties of alginates depend on the relative proportion of the three types of blocks (Penman, A. and Sanderson, G. R. Carbohydr. Res. 1972, 25, 280). The alginate of greatest industrial importance is sodium alginate. Uses have also been found for the potassium, ammonium and calcium salts, as well as alginic acid itself. The only synthetic derivative of alginic acid to find wide use, and has found acceptance as a food additive, is propylene glycol alginate.
In other embodiments of the invention, the natural biopolymer is pectin.
Pectin is a natural polymer constituting the cell walls of most terrestrial plants, and it is extensively employed in food industry, as a thickener or stabilizing agent. It is usually extracted from several types of fruits, with chemical or enzymatic methods and can have a molecular weight typically between 60 and 130,000 g/mol.
Pectin is composed of at least three polysaccharide domains: homogalacturonan (HGA), rhamnogalacturonan-I (RG-I) and rhamnogalacturonan-II (RG-II) (Yapo, B. M.; Carbohydrate Polym. 2011, 86, 373; Round, A. N.; Rigby, N. M.; MacDougall, A. J.; Morris, V. J. Carbohydrate Res. 2011, 345, 487; Mohnen, D. Current Opinion in Plant Biology, 2008, 11, 266). HGA is the major component of pectic polysaccharides, and contains (1-4)-linked α-D-galacturonate (see
RG-I is composed of the disaccharide unit galacturonic acid-rhamnose, 20-80% of the rhamnose residues being substituted with neutral oligosaccharides, mainly arabinofuranose and galactose. Furthermore, fucose, glucopyranose and 4-O-methyl-glucopyranose may be found as terminal residues of the side chains. RG-II has a more complex structure: it presents a small backbone consisting of (1-4)-linked α-D-galacturonate residues, and side chains of different sugars such as rhamnose, galacturonic acid, galactose, arabinofuranose, fucose, apiofuranose and many others.
Pectin and alginic acid based compositions form films with different properties and solubilities.
Alginates can be made into two types of film which have different properties: water-soluble films (usually from sodium alginate) and oil-soluble films (usually from calcium alginate). Water-soluble films can be made by evaporation of a solution of alginate or by extrusion of an alginate solution into a non-solvent which mixes with water, such as acetone or ethanol. These films are impervious to grease, fats and waxes but allow water vapour to pass through. They are brittle when dry but can be plasticized with glycerol, sorbitol or urea.
Water-insoluble films can be made from alginates by treating a water-soluble film with a di- or trivalent cation (Ca2+ is most frequently used) or with acid. They can also be made by extrusion of a solution of a soluble alginate into a bath of a calcium salt. Some alginates, such as zinc alginate, are soluble in excess ammonia solution. If the ammonia is evaporated from a film of such a solution, an insoluble film of zinc alginate remains. These films of insoluble alginate are not water-repellent and will swell on prolonged exposure to water.
When powders of soluble alginates are wetted with water, the hydration of particles results in each having a tacky surface. Unless precautions are taken, the particles will rapidly stick together resulting in clumps which are very slow to completely hydrate and dissolve. The particle size and type will affect solubility behaviour.
The solubility of alginate in water is decreased if other compounds are present that may compete with the alginate for the water necessary for its hydration. The presence of sugars, starches or proteins in the water will reduce the rate of hydration and longer mixing times will be necessary. Similar effects are encountered by the presence of salts of monovalent cations at levels above about 0.5% by weight of the composition. All of these substances are best added after the alginate has been hydrated and dissolved. The presence of small quantities of many polyvalent cations inhibits the hydration of alginates and larger quantities cause precipitation.
Alginates are relatively insoluble in water-miscible solvents such as alcohols and ketones. Aqueous solutions (1%) of alginates typically tolerate the addition of 10-20% of these solvents and propylene glycol alginate, tolerates 20-35% before precipitation. The presence of such solvents in water, before dissolving the alginate, will hinder hydration.
Pectins, like alginates, are relatively insoluble in water-miscible solvents such as alcohols and ketones. Aqueous solutions (1%) of pectins typically tolerate the addition of up to 10-20% of these solvents, before precipitation. As for alginates, the presence of water-miscible solvents such as alcohols or ketones in water before dissolving the pectin limits the extent of hydration.
Hence the presence of pectins and alginates in water-containing solvents results in problems associated with poor hydration of the biopolymer. The problem of poor hydration is further compounded by the inclusion of water-miscible solvents such as ethanol. The use of ethanol is highly desirable in hair styling compositions as its incorporation as part of the solvent system considerably decreases the drying time of such compositions following their application to a keratinous substrate when compared to water-only solvent systems. The poor hydration of pectin and alginate polymers in water-miscible solvents however effectively limits the quantity of ethanol to a maximum of 20% before precipitation occurs. The inclusion of the amine containing moiety in the composition of the present invention however ameliorates this problem. The biopolymer and the amine containing moiety interact to form an amine salt of the biopolymer in situ. Formation of the amine salt improves the hydration of the biopolymer. Consequently, compositions of the invention can tolerate much higher proportions of ethanol (greater than 20%) as part of the solvent system.
The compound containing an amine moiety of the composition of the invention may be selected from an alkylamine, a hydroxyalkylamine or an amino acid.
Thus in some embodiments, said compound containing an amine moiety is an amino acid or derivative thereof. The derivatives of said amino acid can include, but are not limited to, salts, zwitterions, polymers, esters or amides (including polyamides).
In an embodiment said compound containing an amine moiety is an alkylamine, a hydroxyalkylamine or a proteinogenic amino acid or derivative thereof.
In an embodiment, the compound containing an amine moiety may be an amine, diamine, triamine or a polyamine.
In an embodiment, the compound containing an amine moiety may be a primary amine, secondary amine or a tertiary amine.
In an embodiment, the compound containing an amine moiety may be a primary aminoalcohol, secondary aminoalcohol or tertiary aminoalcohol, wherein said primary aminoalcohol, secondary aminoalcohol or tertiary aminoalcohol have the general structure according to Formula (I), Formula (II) or Formula (III):
wherein R1 to R12 are each independently selected from the group consisting of: H, C1-12 alkyl, aryl (e.g. phenyl), C1-12 alkyl aryl and C1-12 heteroalkyl wherein said C1-12 heteroalkyl contains one of more heteroatoms selected from oxygen, nitrogen or sulphur; and m, n and o are each independently an integer from 0 to 14.
The above mentioned C1-12 alkyl groups and any of the C1-12 alkyl groups disclosed herein may be straight or branched chain alkyl groups and may have, for example, from 1 to 12, e.g. 6 carbon atoms. Thus C1-12 means a moiety having 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 or 12 carbon atoms. The above mentioned C1-12 heteroalkyl group comprises a C1-12 alkyl group interrupted by one or more oxygen, sulphur or nitrogen atoms. The term “each independently selected from the group consisting of” in this context and as used herein is intended to mean that each of the listed ‘R’ groups may be selected from the group independently of the other ‘R’ groups (here the term ‘R’ group refers to any group R, R1, R2, R3, R4, R5, R6, R7, R8, R9 etc.). Therefore, each ‘R’ group may be the same or different from each other.
In an embodiment, R1 to R12 of Formula (I), Formula (II) and Formula (III) can be selected from H.
In an embodiment, said compound containing an amine moiety is selected from the group consisting of: ethanolamine, ethanolamine derivatives, triethanolamine, triethanolamine derivatives, aminomethylpropanol, aminomethylpropanol derivatives, isopropanolamine, isopropanolamine derivatives, ethylene diamine, ethylene diamine derivatives, propylene diamine, propylene diamine derivatives, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and salts of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid.
In an embodiment, said compound containing an amine moiety is triethanolamine or 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol.
In another embodiment, said compound containing an amine moiety is arginine, histidine or lysine and derivatives thereof. In a further embodiment said compound containing an amine moiety is proline or glycine and derivatives thereof. The derivatives of arginine, histidine, proline, glycine or lysine include, but are not limited to, salts, zwitterions, polymers, esters or amides (including polyamides).
In particular embodiments said compound containing an amine moiety is selected from sodium glycinate, sodium histidinate and sodium prolinate. Thus in some embodiments said compound containing an amine moiety can be an amino acid salt.
In some embodiments, said compound containing an amine moeity can be an amino acid and derivatives thereof, wherein the amino acid has the general structure according to Formula (IV):
wherein R1 and R2 are each independently selected from the group consisting of: H, C1-12 alkyl, aryl (e.g. phenyl), C1-12 alkyl aryl and C1-12 heteroalkyl wherein said C1-12 heteroalkyl contains one or more heteroatoms selected from oxygen, nitrogen or sulphur, and wherein X+ is a counter ion. In an embodiment X+ can be hydrogen. The above mentioned C1-12 alkyl groups may be optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen, sulphur or nitrogen atoms.
In an embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises said compound containing an amine moiety in an amount of about 0.1% to about 3% by weight of the composition.
In alternative embodiments the composition of the invention can comprise a compound containing a quaternary ammonium moiety. The compound containing the quaternary ammonium moiety can be in the form of a salt. The inclusion of said compound containing a quaternary ammonium moiety can also serve to improve the hydration of the biopolymer. Thus the biopolymer and the compound containing a quaternary ammonium moiety can interact to form an amine salt of the biopolymer in situ. Consequently, such compositions of the invention can tolerate a higher ethanol content as part of the solvent system.
In some embodiments the compound containing a quaternary ammonium moiety can be choline hydroxide or N,N,N-trimethylethanolammonium hydroxide.
In an embodiment said compound containing a quaternary ammonium moiety has the general structure according to Formula (V):
wherein R1 to R4 are each independently selected from the group consisting of: H, C1-12 alkyl, aryl (e.g. phenyl), C1-12 alkyl aryl and C1-12 heteroalkyl wherein said C1-12 heteroalkyl contains one or more heteroatoms selected from oxygen, nitrogen or sulphur; R5 to R7 are each independently selected from the group consisting of: C1-12 alkyl, aryl (e.g. phenyl), C1-12 alkyl aryl and C1-12 heteroalkyl wherein said C1-12 heteroalkyl contains one or more heteroatoms selected from oxygen, nitrogen or sulphur; n is an integer from 0 to 14 and X− is a counter ion. In an embodiment X− is hydroxide. The above mentioned C1-12 alkyl groups may be optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen, sulphur or nitrogen atoms.
In an embodiment, R5 to R7 for Formula (V) are selected from C1-12 alkyl. Thus in some embodiments said compound containing a quaternary ammonium moiety can be in the form of a N,N,N-trialkyl aminoalcohol of Formula (V).
In an embodiment, R1 to R4 for Formula (V) can be selected from H.
In a further embodiment said compound containing a quaternary ammonium moiety has the general structure according to Formula (VI):
wherein R1 and R2 are each independently selected from the group consisting of: H, C1-12 alkyl, aryl (e.g. phenyl), C1-12 alkyl aryl and C1-12 heteroalkyl wherein said C1-12 heteroalkyl contains one or more heteroatoms selected from oxygen, nitrogen or sulphur; R3 to R5 are selected from the group consisting C1-12 alkyl, aryl (e.g. phenyl), C1-12 alkyl aryl and C1-12 heteroalkyl wherein said C1-12 heteroalkyl contains one or more heteroatoms selected from oxygen, nitrogen or sulphur and n is an integer from 1 to 3. The above mentioned C1-12 alkyl groups may be optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen, sulphur or nitrogen atoms.
In an embodiment, R3 to R5 for Formula (VI) are selected from C1-12 alkyl. Thus in some embodiments said compound containing a quaternary ammonium moiety can be in the form of an N,N,N-trialkyl aminocarboxylate.
In an embodiment said compound of Formula (VI) can be an amino acid derived quaternary ammonium zwitterionic compound.
In certain embodiments the compound containing a quaternary ammonium moiety can be selected from betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB) or {[3-(Dodecanoylamino)propyl](dimethyl)ammonio}acetate or cocamidopropyl βine.
In a further embodiment said compound containing a quaternary ammonium moiety has the general structure according to Formula (VII):
wherein R1 to R6 are each independently selected from the group consisting of: H, C1-12 alkyl, aryl (e.g. phenyl), C1-12 alkyl aryl and C1-12 heteroalkyl wherein said C1-12 heteroalkyl contains one or more heteroatoms selected from oxygen, nitrogen or sulphur; R7 to R9 are each independently selected from the group consisting of: C1-12 alkyl, aryl (e.g. phenyl), C1-12 alkyl aryl and C1-12 heteroalkyl wherein said C1-12 heteroalkyl contains one or more heteroatoms selected from oxygen, nitrogen or sulphur; and n is an integer from 0 to 4. The above mentioned C1-12 alkyl groups may be optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen, sulphur or nitrogen atoms.
In an embodiment, R7 to R9 for Formula (VII) are selected from C1-12 alkyl. Thus in some embodiments said compound containing a quaternary ammonium moiety can be in the form of an alternative N,N,N-trialkyl aminocarboxylate.
In an embodiment said compound of general Formula (VII) can be a non-proteinogenic amino acid derived quaternary ammonium zwitterionic compound.
In an embodiment said compound containing a quaternary ammonium moiety can be carnitine or 3-hydroxy-4-(trimethylazaniumyl)butanoate.
In an embodiment the composition of the invention comprises said compound containing a quaternary ammonium moiety in an amount of about 0.1% to about 3% by weight of the composition.
In some embodiments, the composition of the invention comprises an alcohol/water solvent mixture. The alcohol may be a monohydric alcohol with a boiling point below 100° C. such as ethanol. Water and ethanol mixtures form a positive azeotrope (95.6:4.4 ethanol:water), whereby the boiling temperature of the azeotrope is lower than the boiling temperature of either of its constituents. This azeotropic effect influences evaporation rates, meaning that an alcohol/water solvent mixture will evaporate more rapidly than water alone, hence drying time of the personal care compositions when applied to hair is significantly reduced in comparison with water-only solvent systems. Examples of the improvements in drying times observed for hair fixatives in alcohol/water solvent mixtures are provided in WO2005110341, wherein it was observed that drying time decreases (% weight loss with time increases) with increasing levels of ethanol, up to 35% by weight (the maximum limit of solubility for the polymer used).
In an embodiment of the invention, said alcohol/water solvent mixture comprises at least 15% alcohol by weight of the composition. In other embodiments, said mixture comprises at least 20% alcohol by weight of the composition. In further embodiments, said mixture may respectively comprise at least 30%, at least 40% or at least 50% alcohol by weight of the composition.
In an embodiment of the invention, said alcohol/water solvent mixture comprises 30% to 60% alcohol by weight of the composition. In other embodiments, said mixture comprises 40% to 60% alcohol by weight of the composition. In other embodiments, said mixture comprises about 45% to about 55% by weight of the composition and in further embodiments said mixture comprises about 50% to about 55% by weight of the composition. Thus in certain embodiments, the alcohol/water solvent mixture of the invention may comprise substantially higher quantities of alcohol than personal care compositions of the prior art which also contain natural biopolymers or naturally derived polymers.
In other embodiments of the invention, the composition may comprise low quantities of alcohol in the alcohol/water solvent mixture or comprise no alcohol. Thus in some embodiments, the solvent system may be substantially water-based. In such embodiments, the solvent may comprise at least 90% water by weight of the composition.
The composition of the invention may also include a surfactant. In one embodiment the surfactant may be comprised in an amount of from 0.01% to 5%, in other embodiments from 0.01% to 1% and in further embodiments from 0.02% to 0.8% by weight of the composition. Surfactants are generally classified as non-ionic, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or zwitterionic according to their ionic behaviour in aqueous solution.
Examples of suitable non-ionic surfactants are condensation products of aliphatic (C8-C18) primary or secondary linear or branched chain alcohols or phenols with alkylene oxides, usually ethylene oxide and generally having from 6 to 30 ethylene oxide groups. Other suitable non-ionic surfactants include esters of sorbitol, esters of sorbitan anhydrides, esters of propylene glycol, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, fatty acid esters of polypropylene glycol, ethoxylated esters and polyoxyethylene fatty ether phosphates.
Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are the alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkaryl sulfonates, alkanoyl isethionates, alkyl succinates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, N-alkoyl sarcosinates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, alkyl ether carboxylates, and alpha-olefin sulfonates, especially their sodium, magnesium ammonium and mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts. The alkyl and acyl groups generally contain from 8 to 18 carbon atoms and may be unsaturated. The alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl ether phosphates and alkyl ether carboxylates may contain from one to 10 ethylene oxide or propylene oxide units per molecule, and preferably contain 2 to 3 ethylene oxide units per molecule.
Examples of suitable cationic surfactants are cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, tetramethylammonium chloride, tetraethylammonium chloride, octyltrimethylammonium chloride, dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, octyldimethyibenzylammonium chloride, decyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, stearyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, didodecyldimethylammonium chloride, dioctadecyldimethylammonium chloride, tallowtrimethylammonium chloride, cocotrimefhylammonium chloride, (and the corresponding hydroxides thereof), and those materials having the CTFA designations Quaternium-5, Quaternium-31 and Quaternium-18.
Examples of suitable amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants include alkyl amine oxides, alkyl betaines, alkyl amidopropyl betaines, alkyl sulfobetaines (sultaines), alkyl glycinates, alkyl carboxyglycinates, alkyl amphopropionates, alkylamphoglycinates alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysultaines, acyl taurates and acyl glutamates, wherein the alkyl and acyl groups have from 8 to 19 carbon atoms.
In an embodiment, the composition of the invention may comprise one or more non-ionic surfactants. In certain embodiments, non-ionic surfactants are selected from polyoxyethylene nonyl phenyl ether, Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 80 and mixtures thereof. Further anionic, cationic, amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants may suitably be used in conjunction with non-ionic surfactants in compositions of the present invention, to improve, for example, foaming power and/or foam stability. The one or more non-ionic surfactants may thus optionally be combined with one or more amphoteric surfactants. The amphoteric surfactants are preferably selected from lauryl amine oxide, cocodimethyl sulfopropyl betaine, lauryl betaine, sodium cocamphopropionate, and cocamidopropyl betaine. In an embodiment, the amphoteric surfactant is cocamidopropyl betaine.
The composition of the invention may comprise a non-hydrocarbon propellant suitable for aerosol delivery of the composition to the desired application surface. To provide the improved spray performance benefits, the composition should be substantially free of hydrocarbon propellants, e.g., contain less than about 5% by weight of the composition of such hydrocarbon propellants.
In one embodiment the composition of the present invention comprises less than about 5%, in other embodiments less than about 3% and in further embodiments zero percent of hydrocarbon propellants by weight of the composition. The spray performance of anhydrous aerosol hairspray compositions is improved by minimizing the concentration of the hydrocarbon propellants to less than about 5% by weight of the composition. The term “hydrocarbon propellants” as used herein refers to those liquefiable gases that contain only carbon and hydrocarbon atoms, most notably of which are propane, butane, and isobutane.
The total concentration of the non-hydrocarbon propellant in the composition of the present invention may comprise one or more non-hydrocarbon propellants. In one embodiment, the total non-hydrocarbon propellant concentration may be from about 5% to about 50%, in other embodiments from about 15% to about 40% and in further embodiments from about 25% to about 40%, by weight of the composition. The term “non-hydrocarbon propellant” as used herein refers to all liquefiable gases suitable for use in topical application to human hair or skin, excluding the above-identified hydrocarbon propellants. Examples of suitable non-hydrocarbon propellants include, but are not limited to, nitrogen, carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide, atmospheric gas, 1,2-difluoroethane (Hydrofluorocarbon 152A) supplied as Dymel 152A by DuPont, dimethylether, and mixtures thereof. In an embodiment, the non-hydrocarbon propellant is dimethylether.
The composition of the present invention may further comprise optional components known or otherwise effective for use in hair care or personal care products with the proviso that the optional components are physically and chemically compatible with said composition and do not otherwise unduly impair the stability, aesthetics or performance. In one embodiment the optional components are comprised in an amount of from zero to about 25%, in other embodiments from about 0.05% to about 25% and in further embodiments from about 0.1% to about 15%, by weight of the composition.
Examples of optional components include, but are not limited to, preservatives (e.g. sodium benzoate, phenoxyethanol, methylisothiazolinone), surfactants, conditioning or styling polymers (e.g. ethylhexylglycerin, niacinamide, panthenol) other than and in addition to the natural biolpolymers described herein, thickeners and viscosity modifiers (e.g. carbomer, xanthan gum), electrolytes (e.g. sodium chloride, sodium sulfate), fatty alcohols, emulsifiers (e.g. PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, butylene glycol palmitate), pH adjusting agents (e.g. triethanolamine, citric acid), perfume oils, perfume solubilising agents, perfuming agents (e.g. hydroxyisohexyl 3-cyclohexene carboxaldehyde, linalool, geraniol), sequestering agents (e.g. EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA), emollients (e.g. dimethicone, diisopropyl adipate), lubricants and penetrants such as various lanolin compounds, protein hydrolysates and other protein derivatives (e.g. hydrolyzed wheat protein, sericin), ethylene adducts (e.g. ethylene oxide) and polyoxyethylene cholesterol, sunscreens and UV filters (e.g. ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, benzophenone-4), volatile and non-volatile silicone fluids (e.g. cyclopentasiloxane, phenyl trimethicone), and isoparaffins (e.g. C11-12 isoparaffin, C18-70 isoparaffin).
The composition of the invention may suitably be in a gel, cream, a pump spray or aerosol form. A particularly preferred product form is a pump spray. In embodiments wherein the composition is a cream or a gel, the composition may further comprise a structurant or thickener. In one embodiment the structurant or thickener may be comprised in an amount of from 0.1% to 10% and in other embodiments from 0.5% to 3% by weight of the composition. Examples of suitable structurants or thickeners are polymeric thickeners such as carboxyvinyl polymers. A carboxyvinyl polymer is an interpolymer of a monomeric mixture comprising a monomeric olefinically unsaturated carboxylic acid, and from about 0.01% to about 10% by weight of the total monomers of a polyether of a polyhydric alcohol. Natural structurants are particularly preferred, such as water soluble or colloidally water soluble polymers like cellulose ethers (e.g. methylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose), guar gum, sodium alginate, gum arabic, xanthan gum, polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, hydroxypropyl guar gum, starch and starch derivatives, and other thickeners, viscosity modifiers, gelling agents, etc. It is also possible to use inorganic thickeners such as bentonite or laponite clays.
The composition of the present invention may also comprise an aerosol hair mousse, which is emitted from the aerosol container as a foam which is then typically worked through the hair with fingers or a hair styling tool and either left on the hair or rinsed out.
In an embodiment, the composition of the invention is prepared by first dissolving the natural biopolymer in a water-containing solvent and then adding the compound containing an amine moiety or the compound containing a quaternary ammonium moiety to the suspension. In embodiments of the invention wherein the solvent of the composition is an alcohol/water mixture, alcohol is added to the suspension after the addition of the compound containing the amine moiety or the compound containing a quaternary ammonium moiety. Any optional additional ingredients may also be added after the compound containing the amine moiety or the compound containing a quaternary ammonium moiety has been added. Thus in embodiments wherein the solvent is an alcohol/water mixture, said optional ingredients can be added either before or after the addition of the alcohol.
Following its preparation, the composition of the invention can then be packaged into a suitable container such as a pump-spray or an aerosol dispenser. The composition can be contained or dispensed in any known or otherwise effective container or delivery system. All such containers or delivery systems should be compatible with the essential and any selected optional ingredients of the composition.
Exemplary compositions of the personal care compositions of the present invention are shown in Table 1, Table 2, Table 3 and Table 4 and were formulated in accordance with the general methods detailed below.
For examples 1 to 4, alginic acid was added to water with stirring until a fine colloidal suspension was obtained. To this suspension either 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol (see examples 1 and 2) or triethanolamine (see examples 3 and 4) was added with stirring, at which point the amine alginate polymer was formed that dissolved fully in the water, providing a solution with high clarity. Ethanol was slowly added to this aqueous solution of amine alginate with stirring, until the requisite amount of ethanol had been added. The resultant composition was ready for application to hair. On application to hair, the samples dried quickly and had stiff hold. The polymers were easily removed from the hair with shampoo.
For example 5, the amine alginate polymer was formed as described for examples 3 to 4, but no ethanol was added. The resultant composition was ready for application to hair. On application to hair, the sample dried more slowly than that for examples 1 to 4, but still provided stiff hold. The polymer was easily removed from the hair with shampoo.
For example 6, pectin was added to water with stirring until a fine colloidal suspension was obtained. To this suspension triethanolamine was added, at which point the amine pectinate polymer was formed that dissolved fully in the water, providing a solution with high clarity. Ethanol was slowly added to this aqueous solution of amine pectinate with stirring, until the requisite amount of ethanol had been added. The resultant composition was a thick gel and ready for application to hair. On application to hair, the sample dried quickly and had stiff hold. The polymer was easily removed from the hair with shampoo.
For examples 7 to 10, alginic acid was added to water with stirring until a fine colloidal suspension was obtained. To this suspension either choline hydroxide aqueous solution (see example 7) or sodium glycinate aqueous solution (see example 8) or sodium histidinate aqueous solution (see example 9) or sodium prolinate aqueous solution (see example 10) was added with stirring, at which point the amine alginate polymer was formed that dissolved fully in the water, providing a solution with high clarity. Ethanol was slowly added to this aqueous solution of amine alginate with stirring, until the requisite amount of ethanol had been added. The resultant composition was ready for application to hair. On application to hair, the samples dried quickly and had stiff hold. The polymers were easily removed from the hair with shampoo.
Throughout the description and claims of this specification, the words “comprise” and “contain” and variations of them mean “including but not limited to”, and they are not intended to (and do not) exclude other moieties, additives, components, integers or steps. Throughout the description and claims of this specification, the singular encompasses the plural unless the context otherwise requires. In particular, where the indefinite article is used, the specification is to be understood as contemplating plurality as well as singularity, unless the context requires otherwise.
Features, integers, characteristics, compounds, chemical moieties or groups described in conjunction with a particular aspect, embodiment or example of the invention are to be understood to be applicable to any other aspect, embodiment or example described herein unless incompatible therewith. All of the features disclosed in this specification (including any accompanying claims, abstract and drawings), and/or all of the steps of any method or process so disclosed, may be combined in any combination, except combinations where at least some of such features and/or steps are mutually exclusive. The invention is not restricted to the details of any foregoing embodiments. The invention extends to any novel one, or any novel combination, of the features disclosed in this specification (including any accompanying claims, abstract and drawings), or to any novel one, or any novel combination, of the steps of any method or process so disclosed.
The reader's attention is directed to all papers and documents which are filed concurrently with or previous to this specification in connection with this application and which are open to public inspection with this specification, and the contents of all such papers and documents are incorporated herein by reference.
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1223374.8 | Dec 2012 | GB | national |
| Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/GB2013/053430 | 12/24/2013 | WO | 00 |
