Patent Application
20160303029
The subject of the present invention is novel photo-crosslinkable varnish compositions. Compositions of this type preferably correspond to a base coating applied directly in contact with the nail and/or the false nail. This base coating can also be referred to as first coating in the case of a structure using a plurality of coatings of distinct compositions. This coating can thus be coated with at least one second coating. In particular, this second coating can be a top coating or a coloured coating. More particularly, the first coating can be coated with a coloured coating as second coating, which is itself coated with a top coating as third coating. The subject of the present invention is also methods for applying such compositions to nails and/or false nails, and also the use of said compositions for making up and/or caring for the nails and/or false nails.
The nail varnish compositions can be employed as a varnish base or base coat, as a product for making up the nails, or as a finishing composition, also known as a top coat, to be applied to the product for making up the nails, or else as a product for the cosmetic care of the nails. These compositions can be applied both to natural nails and to false nails.
In the nail varnish field, liquid cosmetic compositions are known which are used by first depositing a coating on the nail, and then by subjecting said coating to the action of light radiation, which causes in situ polymerisation and/or crosslinking reactions within said coating, resulting in polymeric networks which are usually crosslinked. Such photo-crosslinkable compositions, commonly known as “UV gels”, and generally based on crosslinkable compounds of (meth)acrylate monomer type, make it possible to obtain a good wear property of the coating deposited on the nail, and are described, for example, in CA 1 306 954, U.S. Pat. No. 5,456,905, U.S. Pat. No. 7,375,144 and FR 2 823 105.
However, conventional “soak-off” UV gels generally exhibit wear property problems when they are not applied by expert manicurists. They generally also require a step of roughening the nail aimed at sanding down the nail in order to promote the wear property of the photo-crosslinked composition in film form, which can thus considerably damage the nail. Moreover, the removal of such compositions often proves to be difficult and can require a step of scraping the nail with a metal tool, an electric sander, or an abrasive file, harmful to the integrity of the nail.
Among the patent prior art aimed at overcoming these problems, mention may be made of documents US2011/0081306, US2011/0082228, US2011/0274633 and US2012/0083547.
The present invention differs from this prior art through the development of a composition which has a wear property on the nails that is better than the competing products without roughening by sanding the nail, or with only slight roughening by sanding the nail, prior to the application of the photo-crosslinkable composition.
Furthermore, some products can exhibit performance problems regarding in particular the quality of the makeup result.
Moreover, the step of removing the prior art compositions conventionally uses tools intended to scrape the surface of the nail so as to remove the photo-crosslinked film of composition previously applied, which are capable of damaging the nails.
Finally, the present invention aims to provide novel photo-crosslinkable compositions which have, after photo-crosslinking of the film, a low content of extractable compounds comprising reactive (meth)acrylate functions.
The present invention thus aims to provide novel photo-crosslinkable compositions which do not exhibit at least one of the drawbacks of the compositions mentioned above.
In particular, the present invention aims to provide photo-crosslinkable compositions which can be removed with conventional organic solvents, such as acetone, without requiring a tool which is abrasive for the nails.
In particular, the present invention aims to provide photo-crosslinkable compositions which exhibit a good compromise between wear property and makeup removal compared with the photo-crosslinkable compositions described in the prior art or which exist.
The present invention also aims to provide photo-crosslinkable compositions which allow a quality nail makeup result, in particular in terms of homogeneity of result and, where appropriate, of colour.
The present invention aims to provide photo-crosslinkable compositions which are easy to use, including by the user herself, thus making it possible to save time and money.
The present invention relates to a photo-crosslinkable cosmetic composition in particular for coating a nail, and more particularly for making up a nail, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:
in which formula (I):
“Photo-crosslinkable compounds of formula (I)” is also understood to mean the optical isomers thereof, the geometric isomers thereof and the base salts thereof.
According to preferred embodiments corresponding to at least one of the abovementioned problems:
in which formula (Ia):
in which formula (Ib):
in which formula (Ic):
in which formula (II):
in which formula (III):
The present invention also relates, according to a second aspect of the invention, to a method for coating the nails and/or false nails, in particular for making up and/or caring for the nails and/or false nails, comprising at least the following steps:
A) application, to a nail or a false nail, of a composition as previously defined, via which a coating consisting of at least one coat of said photo-crosslinkable composition is deposited, this coating being applied directly in contact with the nail or the false nail, and
B) exposure of the coated nail or false nail obtained at the end of step A) to a UV or visible light radiation.
The present invention relates more particularly to a method for coating the nails and/or false nails, in particular for making up and/or caring for the nails and/or false nails, comprising at least the following steps:
A) application, to a nail or a false nail, of a first composition as previously defined, via which a first coating consisting of at least one coat of said photo-crosslinkable composition is deposited, this first coating being applied directly in contact with the nail or the false nail,
B) exposure of the coated nail or false nail obtained at the end of step A) to a UV or visible light radiation,
C) application, to the first coating resulting from step A) and B), of a second composition, distinct from the first composition, via which a second coating consisting of at least one coat of said second composition is deposited,
D) exposure of the coated nail or false nail obtained at the end of step C) to a UV or visible light radiation.
In such a method, the second coating is preferably a top coat, optionally free of colouring agent.
The present invention also relates more particularly to a method for coating the nails and/or false nails, in particular for making up and/or caring for the nails and/or false nails, comprising at least the following steps:
A) application, to a nail or a false nail, of a first composition as previously defined, via which a first coating consisting of at least one coat of said photo-crosslinkable composition is deposited, this first coating being applied directly in contact with the nail or the false nail, and
B) exposure of the coated nail or false nail obtained at the end of step A) to a UV or visible light radiation,
C) application, to the first coating resulting from step A) and B), of a second composition, distinct from the first composition, via which a second coating consisting of at least one coat of said second composition is deposited,
D) exposure of the coated nail or false nail obtained at the end of step C) to a UV or visible light radiation,
E) application, to the second coating resulting from step C) and D), of a third composition, distinct from the first composition and from the second composition, via which a third coating consisting of at least one coat of said third composition is deposited,
F) exposure of the coated nail or false nail obtained at the end of step E) to a UV or visible light radiation.
The present invention relates more particularly to a method for coating the nails and/or false nails, in particular for making up and/or caring for the nails and/or false nails, comprising at least the following steps:
A) application, to a nail or a false nail, of a first composition as previously defined, via which a first coating consisting of at least one coat of said photo-crosslinkable composition is deposited,
B) exposure of the coated nail or false nail obtained at the end of step A) to a UV or visible light radiation,
C) application, to the first coating resulting from step A) and B), of a second composition, distinct from the first composition, via which a second coating consisting of at least one coat of said second composition is deposited, the second composition comprising:
in which formula IV:
at least one photo-crosslinkable compound b) comprising at least one urethane poly(ALK)acrylate compound, preferably urethane poly(meth)acrylate compound, comprising a (poly)oxyalkylene unit, in particular comprising at least one (poly)oxyethylene unit, more particularly comprising from 1 to 100 oxyalkylene units, preferably from 5 to 50 oxyalkylene units, and preferentially approximately 8 to 10 oxyalkylene units, the compound(s) b) corresponding to formula (II) below:
in which formula (II):
at least one photoinitiator, preferably chosen from the group consisting of α-hydroxy ketones, α-amino ketones, aromatic ketones preferably combined with a hydrogen-donating compound, aromatic α-diketones and acylphosphine oxides, and mixtures thereof, advantageously from the group consisting of acylphosphine oxides,
preferably at least one monofunctional (meth)acrylate monomer, preferably tetrahydrofurfuryl methacrylate (THFMA),
preferably at least one film-forming polymer,
optionally at least one colouring agent, in particular at least one pigment,
at least one urethane (meth)acrylate compound comprising at least 2 carbamate units obtained by reaction with at least one diisocyanate of isophorone diisocyanate (IPDI) type, preferably corresponding to formula (IV) below:
in which formula (IV):
at least one photo-crosslinkable compound b) comprising at least one urethane poly(ALK)acrylate compound, preferably urethane poly(meth)acrylate compound, comprising a (poly)oxyalkylene unit, in particular comprising at least one (poly)oxyethylene unit, more particularly comprising from 1 to 100 oxyalkylene units, preferably from 5 to 50 oxyalkylene units, and preferentially approximately 8 to 10 oxyalkylene units, the compound(s) b) corresponding to formula (II) below:
in which formula (II):
at least one photoinitiator, preferably chosen from the group consisting of α-hydroxy ketones, α-amino ketones, aromatic ketones preferably combined with a hydrogen-donating compound, aromatic α-diketones and acylphosphine oxides, and mixtures thereof, advantageously from the group consisting of acylphosphine oxides,
preferably at least one monofunctional (meth)acrylate monomer, preferably tetrahydrofurfuryl methacrylate (THFMA),
The present invention relates more particularly to a method for coating the nails and/or false nails, in which, when a third coating of a third composition is applied, the second composition applied as second coating comprises at least one colouring agent.
The present invention relates more particularly to a method for coating the nails and/or false nails, in which steps C) and D) are repeated in total twice, the second composition being applied a first time and exposed to a UV or visible light radiation, then being applied a second time and exposed to a UV or visible light radiation, steps A) and B), like E) and F), preferably being respectively carried out only once.
In such methods, the second coating is preferably a or preferentially a plurality of coloured coat(s), comprising at least one colouring agent, and the third coating is preferably a top coat free of colouring agent.
Solids
A composition according to the invention advantageously comprises a solids content of greater than or equal to 30%, in particular greater than or equal to 40%, and advantageously less than or equal to 60%, in particular less than or equal to 50%.
For the purposes of the present invention, the “solids content” denotes the content of non-volatile matter.
The solids content (abbreviated as SC) of a composition according to the invention is measured using a “Halogen Moisture Analyzer HR 73” commercial halogen desiccator from Mettler Toledo. The measurement is performed on the basis of the weight loss of a sample dried by halogen heating, and thus represents the percentage of residual matter once the volatile matter has evaporated off.
The measurement protocol is as follows:
About 2 g of the composition, hereinafter the sample, are spread onto a metal crucible. The sample is photo-crosslinked under a nitrogen stream (in order to prevent the atmospheric oxygen from inhibiting the crosslinking at the surface of the sample). The metal crucible is then placed in the halogen moisture analyzer mentioned above. The sample is then subjected to a temperature of 105° C. until a constant weight is obtained. The wet mass of the sample, corresponding to its initial mass before crosslinking, and the dry mass of the sample, corresponding to its mass after crosslinking and halogen heating, are measured using a precision balance.
The experimental error associated with the measurement is of the order of plus or minus 2%.
The solids content is calculated in the following manner:
Solids content (expressed as weight percentage)=100 ×(dry mass/wet mass).
Physiologically Acceptable Medium
The cosmetic compositions according to the invention comprise a physiologically acceptable medium.
The term “physiologically acceptable medium” is intended to denote a medium that is particularly suitable for applying a composition of the invention to keratin materials.
The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the support onto which the composition has to be applied, and also to the appearance under which the composition has to be packaged.
Photo-Crosslinkable Compounds
A composition in accordance with the present invention comprises at least the photo-crosslinkable compounds a) and b).
In the context of the present invention, the term “photo-crosslinkable compounds” denotes organic compounds capable of crosslinking under the action of light radiation, resulting in a crosslinked polymeric network.
The photo-crosslinkable compounds preferably comprise at least one (meth)acrylate function, namely at least one H2C═C(R)—C(O)—O— function, with R═H or CH3, more preferably R═CH3.
Photo-Crosslinkable Compound(s) a)
The compositions according to the invention comprise at least one photo-crosslinkable compound a).
They can comprise a single photo-crosslinkable compound a) or a mixture of several photo-crosslinkable compounds a), preferably a single photo-crosslinkable compound a).
The photo-crosslinkable compound(s) a) comprise(s) at least one compound corresponding to formula (I) below:
in which formula (I):
According to one particular embodiment, the photo-crosslinkable compound(s) a) correspond(s) to formula (Ia):
in which formula (Ia):
According to one preferred embodiment variant, the photo-crosslinkable compound(s) a) correspond(s) to formula (Ib):
in which formula (Ib):
in which formula (Ic):
According to one thus particularly preferred embodiment, the photo-crosslinkable compound(s) a) is (are) chosen from the compounds of formulae (la), (Ib), and (Ic), as defined above, and a mixture thereof.
Preferably, the photo-crosslinkable compound(s) a) of formula (I) is (are) chosen from methacryloyloxyethyl maleate, methacryloyloxyethyl succinate, and methacryloyloxyethyl phthalate.
Preferably, the compound(s) comprise(s) at least methacryloyloxyethyl maleate, bearing the INCI name HEMA MALEATE, and the chemical/IUPAC name 2-Butenedioic Acid (2Z)-, Mono[2-Methyl-1-Oxo-2-Propenyl)Oxy]Ethyl]Ester.
The photo-crosslinkable compound(s) a) of formula (I), more preferably methacryloyloxyethyl maleate, is (are) preferably present in a content greater than or equal to 10%, relative to the total weight of the solids of the composition, in particular between 10% and 25% by weight, and more particularly between 15% and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the solids of the composition.
Photo-Crosslinkable Compound(s) b)
A composition according to the invention comprises at least one photo-crosslinkable compound b).
It can comprise a single photo-crosslinkable compound b) or a mixture of several photo-crosslinkable compounds b), preferably a single photo-crosslinkable compound b).
The photo-crosslinkable compound(s) b) comprise at least one (poly)urethane poly(ALK)acrylate compound comprising a (poly)oxyalkylene unit.
Generally, the term “(poly)urethane poly(ALK)acrylate compound” is intended to mean any compound comprising at least one urethane function —O—C(O)—NH—, and comprising several (ALK)acrylate functions of formula H2C═C(R)—C(O)—O—, with R preferably equal to H or ALK, it being understood that ALK represents a C1-C6, preferably C1-C2, more preferably C1, alkyl group, such as CH3, R preferably being equal to CH3.
The “urethane” function is also referred to as “carbamate” function. Preferably, the photo-crosslinkable compound(s) b) comprise several urethane or carbamate functions.
As a (poly)urethane poly(ALK)acrylate compound, polyurethane poly(ALK)acrylate compounds, especially polyurethane di(ALK)acrylate compounds, in particular polyurethane di(meth)acrylate compounds, more particularly polyurethane dimethacrylate compounds, are preferred.
Thus, the term “poly(meth)acrylate” denotes a compound comprising at least two methacrylate functions, or at least two acrylate functions, or else at least one methacrylate function and at least one acrylate function, preferably at least two methacrylate functions.
Advantageously, the average number of (meth)acrylate functions borne by the photo-crosslinkable (poly)urethane (meth)acrylate compound(s) intended to form, after crosslinking, a crosslinked polymeric network, is greater than or equal to 2, for example between 2 and 6, better still between 2 and 4, more preferentially is equal to 2.
Preferably, the photo-crosslinkable compound(s) b) therefore comprise(s) at least one polyurethane dimethacrylate compound comprising a plurality of urethane functions —O—C(O)—NH—, in particular at least two urethane functions, and a plurality of methacrylate functions of formula H2C═C(CH3)—C(O)—O—, in particular at least two methacrylate functions.
The term “(poly)oxyalkylene” is intended to mean a (poly)alkylene-oxy divalent group of which the alkylene group is linear or branched and contains from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, the alkylene group being optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl group(s), preferably being unsubstituted as corresponds to —[CH2]2—O— ou —O—[CH2]2—.
The term “(poly)urethane poly(ALK)acrylate compound comprising a (poly)oxyalkylene unit” is thus intended to mean that the photo-crosslinkable compound(s) b) comprise(s) at least one (poly)(C1-C6, preferably C2)oxyalkylenated divalent group comprising from 1 to 100 alkylene-oxy units, in particular from 5 to 50 alkylene-oxy units, and more particularly from approximately 8 to 10 alkylene-oxy units. Preferably, these (poly)oxyalkylenated groups are polyoxyethylene groups.
The photo-crosslinkable compound(s) b) preferably correspond(s) to formula (II) below:
in which formula (II):
This (These) photo-crosslinkable compound(s) b), in particular of formula (II), advantageously has (have) a molecular weight greater than 100 g/mol, in particular between 100 and 800 g/mol, better still between 300 and 600 g/mol, for example approximately 400 g/mol.
The photo-crosslinkable compound(s) b), in particular of formula (II), is (are) preferably present in a total content greater than or equal to 20%, relative to the total weight of the solids of the composition, in particular between 25% and 50% by weight, and more particularly between 30% and 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the solids of the composition.
The photo-crosslinkable compound(s) a) of formula (I), and the photo-crosslinkable compound(s) b), in particular of formula (II), is (are) preferably present in a respective total content such that the weight ratio of the photo-crosslinkable compound(s) a), in particular of formula (I), and of the photo-crosslinkable compound(s) b), in particular of formula (II), ranges from 0.1 to 2, in particular from 0.25 to 1.
Film-Forming Polymer(s)
The compositions according to the invention advantageously also comprise at least one film-forming polymer.
They can comprise a single film-forming polymer or a mixture of several film-forming polymers, preferably a mixture of several film-forming polymers.
The function of the film-forming polymer(s) is to confer a wear property on the photo-crosslinkable composition and also to promote removal of the makeup.
Preferably, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least two film-forming polymers.
The total content of film-forming polymer(s) is preferably greater than or equal to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of solids of the composition, in particular ranges from 25% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of solids of the composition.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “film-forming polymer” denotes a polymer that is capable, by itself (i.e. in the absence of an auxiliary film-forming agent or of an external stimulus for example of the UV type), of forming an isolable and in particular continuous and adherent film, on a support, in particular on the nails.
This film-forming polymer may be chosen from the group consisting of synthetic polymers, of radical type or of polycondensate type, and polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof.
A film-forming polymer that is suitable for the invention can be chosen from at least one poly(meth)acrylate compound, in particular from (meth)acrylate homopolymers and copolymers, preferably from (meth)acrylate copolymers.
The poly(meth)acrylate compound(s), in particular the (meth)acrylate copolymer(s), present in the composition is (are) advantageously capable of being obtained by:
i) polymerisation of at least one methyl methacrylate (MMA) monomer and of at least one acrylic or methacrylic acid (AA or MAA) monomer, or
ii) polymerisation of at least one methyl methacrylate (MMA) monomer, of at least one monomer with a glass transition temperature below 30° C., such as butyl methacrylate (BMA), butyl acrylate (BA) or 2-ethylhexyl acrylate (2-EHA), and optionally of at least one acrylic acid (AA) or methacrylic acid (MAA) monomer.
A composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one poly(meth)acrylate film-forming polymer of type ii) obtained by polymerisation of at least one methyl methacrylate (MMA) monomer, of at least one monomer with a glass transition temperature below 30° C., such as butyl methacrylate (BMA), butyl acrylate (BA) or 2-ethylhexyl acrylate (2-EHA), and optionally of at least one acrylic acid (AA) or methacrylic acid (MAA) monomer.
Such a poly(meth)acrylate film-forming polymer of type ii) preferably corresponds to formula (III) below:
in which formula (III):
Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one film-forming polymer c) chosen from at least one polyacrylate compound of formula (III).
As a variant or preferably additionally, a film-forming polymer that is suitable for the invention can be chosen from polysaccharides and polysaccharide derivatives, such as derivatives of cellulose or of guar gum. A preferential polysaccharide derivative that is suitable for the invention may be nitrocellulose or a polysaccharide ester or alkyl ether.
The term “polysaccharide ester or alkyl ether” denotes a polysaccharide made up of repeat units comprising at least two identical or different rings and having a degree of substitution per saccharide unit of between 1.9 and 3, preferably between 2.2 and 2.9 and more particularly between 2.4 and 2.8. The term “substitution” denotes the functionalisation of the hydroxyl groups to give ester and/or alkyl ether functions, and/or the functionalisation of the carboxylic groups to give ester functions.
In other words, it may be a polysaccharide, partially or totally substituted with ester and/or alkyl ether groups. Preferably, the hydroxyl groups may be substituted with ester and/or alkyl ether functions of C2-C4.
Mention may in particular be made of cellulose esters (such as cellulose acetobutyrates or cellulose acetopropionates), cellulose alkyl ethers (for instance ethylcelluloses), and ethyl guars.
A film-forming polymer that is suitable for the invention can be chosen from synthetic polymers such as polyurethanes, acrylic polymers, vinyl polymers, polyvinyl butyrals, alkyd resins and ketone/aldehyde resins, resins derived from aldehyde condensation products, such as arylsulfonamide-formaldehyde resins, for instance toluenesulfonamide-formaldehyde resin, arylsulfonamide-epoxy resins or else ethyl tosylamide resins.
A film-forming polymer that is suitable for the invention can also be chosen from polymers of natural origin, such as plant resins, such as dammar resins, elemi resins, copal resins, and benzoin; gums such as shellac, sandarac gum and gum mastic.
Use may in particular be made, as a film-forming polymer, of the toluenesulfonamide/formaldehyde resins Ketjentflex MS80 from the company Akzo or Santolite MHP or Santolite MS 80 from the company Faconnier or Resimpol 80 from the company Pan Americana, the alkyd resin Beckosol ODE 230-70-E from the company Dainippon, the acrylic resin Acryloid B66 from the company Röhm & Haas, the polyurethane resin Trixene PR 4127 from the company Baxenden or the acetophenone/formaldehyde resin sold under the reference Synthetic Resin SK by Degussa.
According to one particular preferred embodiment, the film-forming polymer is chosen from the group consisting of polysaccharides and polysaccharide derivatives, preferably from nitrocellulose and polysaccharide ethers and esters, in particular of C2-C4, and more preferentially from cellulose acetobutyrates, cellulose acetopropionates, ethylcelluloses, ethyl guars, and mixtures thereof.
According to one advantageous embodiment, the film-forming polymer is chosen from the group consisting of nitrocellulose, cellulose acetopropionate, cellulose acetobutyrate, and (meth)acrylate homopolymers and copolymers, and mixtures thereof.
According to one advantageous embodiment, the compositions of the invention comprise at least one film-forming polymer chosen from nitrocellulose.
According to this particular embodiment, the ratio of the weight of the film-forming polymer(s) chosen from the group consisting of polysaccharides and polysaccharide derivatives, in particular the weight of nitrocellulose, to the weight of the photo-crosslinkable compounds, in particular the sum of the respective weight of the photo-crosslinkable compounds a) and b), is less than or equal to 1, and preferentially between 0.3 and 1.
According to one advantageous embodiment, the ratio of the total weight of film-forming polymer(s), in particular chosen from the group consisting of poly(meth)acrylate compound(s), in particular of formula (III), and the polysaccharides and polysaccharide derivatives, in particular nitrocellulose, to the weight of the photo-crosslinkable compounds, in particular the sum of the respective weight of the photo-crosslinkable compounds a) and b), and optionally of one or more (meth)acrylate monomer(s), such as a tetrahydrofurfuryl methacrylate compound, is less than or equal to 1, and preferentially between 0.3 and 1.
Volatile Solvent(s)
The compositions according to the invention also advantageously comprise at least one volatile solvent. They can therefore comprise a single solvent or a mixture of several volatile solvents, preferably a mixture of several volatile solvents.
The weight content of volatile solvents is preferably between 40% and 80% and preferably between 50% and 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
For the purposes of the invention, the term “volatile solvent” is intended to mean a solvent that is capable of evaporating on contact with keratin materials in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.
The volatile solvent(s) of the invention are solvents which are liquid at ambient temperature and which have a non-zero vapour pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 50 Pa to 40 000 Pa (0.375 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 100 Pa to 26 6624 Pa (0.75 to 200 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1000 Pa to 13 332 Pa (7.5 to 100 mmHg).
Such solvents aim in particular to fluidize and reduce the solids of the composition.
Preferably, the solvents are chosen from polar solvents.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “polar solvent” is intended to mean a solvent, or an oil, of which the solubility parameter calculated above its melting point δa is other than 0 (J/cm3)1/2.
The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the Hansen three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by C. M. Hansen: “The three dimensional solubility parameters” J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).
According to this Hansen space:
δa=(δp2+δh2)1/2.
The parameters δp, δh, δD and δa are expressed in (J/cm3)1/2.
In particular, the term “polar solvent” is intended to mean a solvent of which the chemical structure is formed essentially from, or even consists of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and which comprises at least one highly electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus atom.
Preferably, this polar volatile solvent is chosen from the group consisting of C3-C6 esters and ketones and mixtures thereof
By way of polar volatile solvent, mention may in particular be made of acetone, methyl ethyl ketone, methyl isobutyl ketone, cyclohexanone and alkyl acetates in which the alkyl group comprises from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, such as methyl acetate, ethyl acetate, propyl acetate, n-propyl acetate, isopropyl acetate, n-butyl acetate, isobutyl acetate and tert-butyl acetate.
Preferably, the polar volatile solvent is chosen from the group consisting of ethyl acetate, propyl acetate, such as n-propyl or isopropyl acetate, n-butyl, isobutyl or tert-butyl acetate, isopropanol, and a mixture or mixtures thereof.
According to one preferred embodiment, the solvent is a mixture of butyl acetate, ethyl acetate and isopropanol.
The butyl acetate, the ethyl acetate and the isopropanol are preferably present in a respective content ranging respectively from 25% to 35% by weight, from 20% to 30% by weight, and from 1% to 5%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to another preferred embodiment, the solvent is a mixture of butyl acetate, ethyl acetate, propyl acetate and isopropanol.
The butyl acetate, the ethyl acetate, the propyl acetate and the isopropanol are preferably present in a respective content ranging respectively from 20% to 30% by weight, from 15% to 25% by weight, from 5% to 15% by weight, and from 1% to 5%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Photoinitiator(s)
The compositions according to the invention also advantageously comprise at least one photoinitiator.
It can comprise a single photoinitiator or a mixture of several photoinitiators, preferably a single photoinitiator.
The photoinitiators that can be used according to the present invention are known in the art and are described, for example, in “Les photoinitiateurs dans la réticulation des revêtements” [“Photoinitiators in the crosslinking of coatings”], G. Li Bassi, Double Liaison—Chimie des Peintures, n° 361, November 1985, p. 34-41; “Applications industrielles de la polymerisation photoinduite” [“Industrial applications of photoinduced polymerisation”], Henri Strub, L'Actualité Chimique, February 2000, p. 5-13; and “Photopolym{tilde over (e)}res: considerations théoriques et réaction de prise” [“Photopolymers: theoretical considerations and setting reaction”], Marc, J. M. Abadie, Double Liaison —Chimie des Peintures, n° 435-436, 1992, p. 28-34.
These photoinitiators encompass:
Preferably, the photoinitiator is chosen from the group consisting of α-hydroxy ketones, α-amino ketones, aromatic ketones preferably combined with a hydrogen-donating compound, aromatic α-diketones and acylphosphine oxides, and mixtures thereof.
An acylphosphine oxide is preferably used in the photo-crosslinkable composition of the invention.
By way of photoinitiator, mention may be made of Lucirin® TPO-L (BASF).
The total content of the photoinitiator(s) depends on a large number of factors such as, for example, the reactivity of the various components of the mixture, the presence of a colouring agent or colouring agents, the intensity of the light source or the exposure time.
In order to obtain the desired properties, the photoinitiator(s) is (are) preferably present in a total content greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the photo-crosslinkable composition, preferably ranging from 0.2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the photo-crosslinkable composition.
Other Constituents
According to one particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more (meth)acrylate monomer(s), such as a tetrahydrofurfuryl methacrylate compound. In particular, this (these) (meth)acrylate monomer(s) may be present in a second coat applied to the base coat in order to improve the wear property and the mechanical property. Such a monomer can, however, be present in a base coat in accordance with the invention. This (these) monomer(s) is (are) preferably present in a content less than or equal to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the solids of the composition, better still in a content less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the solids of the composition.
According to one particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one photo-crosslinkable (poly)urethane (meth)acrylate compound not comprising a polyoxyalkylene unit.
The compositions according to the invention may also comprise one or more stabiliser(s).
The compositions according to the invention can also contain adjuvants, or additives, chosen in particular from colouring agents such as pigments, plasticisers, coalescers, preservatives, thickeners, fragrances, cosmetic nail care active agents, spreading agents, antifoams and dispersants.
Needless to say, those skilled in the art will take care to choose these optional adjuvants and additives such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are virtually not, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.
When the composition comprises colouring agents, the absorption spectrum of the colouring agents used should in particular be adapted to that of the photoinitiators, or conversely the absorption spectrum of the photoinitiators to that of the colouring agents used, in order to avoid these two types of compounds absorbing light at the same wavelengths. This is because the absorption of light by the colouring agents would render almost totally ineffective the photoinitiators present beyond a certain depth of the coating.
Preferably, the composition of the invention is transparent.
As used herein, the term “transparent” means that the composition has HAZEBYK index of less than 5 as measured with a KYKHAZEGLOSS brilliance meter.
According to one embodiment, the composition of the invention also comprises a colouring agent chosen from the group consisting of soluble dyes, pigments, nacres and glitter flakes.
The colouring agent(s) can be present in a total content greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the coat, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 5%, advantageously from 0.2% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The term “soluble dyes” should be understood as meaning organic, inorganic or organometallic compounds which are soluble in the composition of the invention and intended to colour said composition.
The dyes are, for example, Sudan red, DC red 17, DC green 6, β-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan brown, DC yellow 11, DC violet 2, DC orange 5 and quinoline yellow.
The term “pigments” should be understood as meaning white or coloured and inorganic or organic particles of any shape which are insoluble in the composition of the invention and which are intended to colour said composition.
The term “nacres” should be understood as meaning iridescent particles of any shape, in particular produced by certain molluscs in their shell, or else synthesized.
The pigments may be white or coloured, and inorganic and/or organic. Among the inorganic pigments that may be mentioned are titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron (black, yellow or red) oxide or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, and metal powders, for instance aluminium powder and copper powder.
Among the organic pigments that may be mentioned are carbon black, pigments of D & C type and lakes based on cochineal carmine or on barium, strontium, calcium or aluminium.
Mention may also be made of effect pigments, such as particles comprising an organic or inorganic and natural or synthetic substrate, for example glass, acrylic, polyester, polyurethane or polyethylene terephthalate resins, ceramics or aluminas, which may or may not be covered with metal substances, such as aluminium, gold, copper or bronze, or with metal oxides, such as titanium dioxide, iron oxide or chromium oxide, or with inorganic or organic pigments, and mixtures thereof.
The nacreous pigments can be chosen from white nacreous pigments, such as mica covered with titanium oxide or with bismuth oxychloride, coloured nacreous pigments, such as titanium oxide-coated mica covered with iron oxides, titanium oxide-coated mica covered with in particular ferric blue or with chromium oxide, or titanium oxide-coated mica covered with an organic pigment of the abovementioned type, and nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
Use may also be made of pigments with goniochromatic properties, in particular with liquid crystals or multilayer pigments.
Optical brighteners or fibres optionally coated with optical brighteners can also be used.
The compositions according to the invention may also comprise one or more fillers, in particular in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight.
The term “fillers” should be understood as meaning colourless or white, inorganic or synthetic particles of any shape, which are insoluble in the medium of the composition, irrespective of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured. These fillers serve in particular to modify the rheology or the texture of the composition.
The fillers may be inorganic or organic and of any shape, platelet-shaped, spherical or oblong, irrespective of the crystallographic form (for example lamellar, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide (Nylon®) powder (Orgasol® from Atochem), poly-β-alanine powder and polyethylene powder, powders of tetrafluoroethylene polymers (Teflon®), lauroyllysine, starch, boron nitride, hollow polymer microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile, for instance Expancel® (Nobel Industrie) or of acrylic acid copolymers (Polytrap® from the company Dow Corning) and silicone resin microbeads (for example Tospearls® from Toshiba), elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads® from Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, and metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium stearate or lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate.
Uses
According to one embodiment, the compositions of the invention are intended to be applied to the nails and/or false nails, preferably for making up and/or caring for the nails and/or false nails, more preferentially for making up the nails and/or false nails.
In particular, the compositions according to the invention are intended to be used as photo-crosslinkable nail varnish.
Preferably, the compositions according to the invention are intended to be applied directly to the nails and/or false nails as a base coat or coating. Such a base coating can optionally constitute a first coating for one or more subsequent coating(s).
The present invention also relates to a method for making up and/or caring for the nails and/or false nails, consisting in applying, to a nail and/or a false nail, a photo-crosslinkable composition according to the invention.
According to one particular embodiment, a method for coating the nails and/or false nails, in particular for making up and/or caring for the nails and/or false nails, comprises at least the following steps:
A) application, to a nail or a false nail, of a composition in accordance with the invention, via which a coating consisting of at least one coat of said photo-crosslinkable composition is deposited, this coating being applied directly in contact with the nail or the false nail, and
B) exposure of the coated nail or false nail obtained at the end of step A) to a UV or visible light radiation.
The radiation suitable for crosslinking the photo-crosslinkable composition of the present invention has a wavelength between 210 and 600 nm, preferably between 250 and 420 nm, preferably between 350 and 410 nm. The use of lasers may also be envisaged.
In one preferred embodiment of the invention, use is made of an LED lamp or a UV lamp and in particular a mercury-vapour lamp, the mercury optionally being doped with other elements, such as gallium, making it possible to modify the emission spectrum of the light source.
The radiation-exposure time of the deposited coating depends on various factors such as the chemical nature and the content of the reactive components or else the desired crosslinking density.
For nail varnishes, it will generally be sought to obtain satisfactory results for an exposure time between 10 seconds and 10 minutes, preferably between 30 seconds and 5 minutes.
Such a method can use a UV lamp with a power of approximately 36 W.
Preferably, the thickness after drying of the coating of photo-crosslinkable composition deposited in step A) is less than or equal to 100 μm and preferably less than or equal to 75 μm.
At the end of the final crosslinking step, the coating deposited on the nail or the false nail can exhibit a tacky coat at its surface, requiring cleaning of the crosslinked coating using, for example, a solvent such as isopropanol.
According to one embodiment, the method of the invention also comprises, before step B), a period of drying the coating deposited at the end of step A), the duration of which can range from 10 seconds to 10 minutes, typically from 30 seconds to 5 minutes. Said drying is generally carried out in the open air and at ambient temperature.
A particular method according to the invention consists exclusively of a step A) and a step B) as defined above, optionally separated by a drying period as defined above.
According to one embodiment, after the crosslinking step B), the coating deposited on the nail is covered with at least one coloured composition and/or with a top composition, also known as a “top coat”, these compositions being photo-crosslinkable or non-photo-crosslinkable.
The crosslinked coating resulting from the crosslinking of step B) exhibits a persistence over time, in terms of resistance to chipping and of gloss, which is significant and in particular on the scale of at least one week. It thus proves to be resistant to water, to rubbing and to impacts, and does not exhibit any significant wear or chipping during this period.
This coating also has an ability to dissolve or to increase in volume and therefore in weight when it is brought into contact with a customary makeup-removing solvent. This ability to dissolve or to swell, shown by the crosslinked coating, is precisely advantageous for its removal when it is applied at the surface of a nail or of a false nail. Indeed, the coating can be easily removed by simple makeup removal using a conventional dissolving agent.
Thus, the composition of the invention is advantageously removable using dissolving agents which are customary in the nail varnish field, and in particular using acetone and ethyl acetate, and mixtures thereof.
The present invention also relates to a method for removing the makeup from the nails and/or false nails, comprising the application of a makeup-removal composition, such as a customary dissolving agent described above, to a nail or a false nail coated with at least one coat obtained by crosslinking a coat of composition according to the invention, via which said crosslinked coat is removed.
The first coating, or base coating, is preferably coated with a second coating. In particular, this second coating is chosen from a top coating or a coloured coating. More particularly, the first coating can be coated with a coloured coating as second coating, and the second coating can itself be coated with a top coating as third coating. Preferably, each coating consists of a respective photo-crosslinkable composition and is the subject of photo-crosslinking according to the conditions set out above.
According to one particular embodiment, a method for coating the nails and/or false nails, in particular for making up and/or caring for the nails and/or false nails, comprises at least the following steps:
A) application, to a nail or a false nail, of a first composition in accordance with the invention, via which a first coating consisting of at least one coat of said photo-crosslinkable composition is deposited, this first coating being applied directly in contact with the nail or the false nail, and
B) exposure of the coated nail or false nail obtained at the end of step A) to a UV or visible light radiation,
C) application, to the first coating resulting from step A) and B), of a second composition, distinct from the first composition, via which a second coating consisting of at least one coat of said second composition is deposited,
D) exposure of the coated nail or false nail obtained at the end of step C) to a UV or visible light radiation.
In such a method, the second coating is preferably a top coat, optionally free of colouring agent.
According to one particular embodiment, a method for coating the nails and/or false nails, in particular for making up and/or caring for the nails and/or false nails, comprises at least the following steps:
A) application, to a nail or a false nail, of a first composition in accordance with the invention, via which a first coating consisting of at least one coat of said photo-crosslinkable composition is deposited, this first coating being applied directly in contact with the nail or the false nail, and
B) exposure of the coated nail or false nail obtained at the end of step A) to a UV or visible light radiation,
C) application, to the first coating resulting from step A) and B), of a second composition, distinct from the first composition, via which a second coating consisting of at least one coat of said second composition is deposited,
D) exposure of the coated nail or false nail obtained at the end of step C) to a UV or visible light radiation,
E) application, to the second coating resulting from step C) and D), of a third composition, distinct from the first composition and from the second composition, via which a third coating consisting of at least one coat of said third composition is deposited,
F) exposure of the coated nail or false nail obtained at the end of step E) to a UV or visible light radiation.
In such a method, the second coating is preferably a coloured coat comprising at least one colouring agent and the third coating is preferably a top coat free of colouring agent.
According to one preferred embodiment, the present invention thus relates to a method for coating the nails and/or false nails, in particular for making up and/or caring for the nails and/or false nails, comprising at least the following steps:
A) application, to a nail or a false nail, of a first composition in accordance with the invention, via which a first coating consisting of at least one coat of said photo-crosslinkable composition is deposited,
B) exposure of the coated nail or false nail obtained at the end of step A) to a UV or visible light radiation,
C) application, to the first coating resulting from step A) and B), of a second composition, distinct from the first composition, via which a second coating consisting of at least one coat of said second composition is deposited, the second composition comprising:
at least one urethane (meth)acrylate compound comprising at least two carbamate units obtained by reaction with at least one diisocyanate of isophorone diisocyanate (IPDI) type, preferably corresponding to formula (IV) below:
in which formula (IV):
at least one photo-crosslinkable compound b) comprising at least one urethane poly(ALK)acrylate compound, preferably urethane poly(meth)acrylate compound, comprising a (poly)oxyalkylene unit, in particular comprising at least one (poly)oxyethylene unit, more particularly comprising from 1 to 100 oxyalkylene units, preferably from 5 to 50 oxyalkylene units, and preferentially approximately 8 to 10 oxyalkylene units, the compound(s) b) corresponding to formula (II) below:
in which formula (II):
at least one photoinitiator, preferably chosen from the group consisting of α-hydroxy ketones, α-amino ketones, aromatic ketones preferably combined with a hydrogen-donating compound, aromatic α-diketones and acylphosphine oxides, and mixtures thereof, advantageously from the group consisting of acylphosphine oxides,
preferably at least one monofunctional (meth)acrylate monomer, preferably tetrahydrofurfuryl methacrylate (THFMA),
optionally at least one colouring agent, in particular at least one pigment,
at least one urethane (meth)acrylate compound comprising at least 2 carbamate units obtained by reaction with at least one diisocyanate of isophorone diisocyanate (IPDI) type, preferably corresponding to formula IV below:
in which formula (IV):
at least one photo-crosslinkable compound b) comprising at least one urethane poly(ALK)acrylate compound, preferably urethane poly(meth)acrylate compound, comprising a (poly)oxyalkylene unit, in particular comprising at least one (poly)oxyethylene unit, more particularly comprising from 1 to 100 oxyalkylene units, preferably from 5 to 50 oxyalkylene units, and preferentially approximately 8 to 10 oxyalkylene units, the compound(s) b) corresponding to formula (II) below:
in which formula (II):
at least one photoinitiator, preferably chosen from the group consisting of α-hydroxy ketones, α-amino ketones, aromatic ketones preferably combined with a hydrogen-donating compound, aromatic α-diketones and acylphosphine oxides, and mixtures thereof, advantageously from the group consisting of acylphosphine oxides,
preferably at least one monofunctional (meth)acrylate monomer, preferably tetrahydrofurfuryl methacrylate (THFMA),
F) exposure of the coated nail or false nail obtained at the end of step E) to a UV or visible light radiation.
According to one preferred embodiment, when a third coating of a third composition is applied, the second composition applied as second coating comprises at least one colouring agent. According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the second coating corresponds to one or preferably more coloured coats, which are preferably identical, such as two, comprising at least one colouring agent, and the third coating is preferably a top coat free of colouring agent.
According to one preferred embodiment, steps C) and D) are repeated in total twice, the second composition being applied a first time and exposed to a UV or visible light radiation, then being applied a second time and exposed to a UV or visible light radiation, steps A) and B), like E) and F), preferably being respectively carried out only once.
A subject of the present invention is also a kit comprising:
A subject of the present invention is also a method for coating a nail and/or false nail, comprising the following steps:
i) rubbing the surface of a nail or of the false nail with an abrasive material having a particle size of greater than or equal to 200, preferably less than 300, advantageously between 220 and 280,
ii) applying a photo-crosslinkable cosmetic composition according to the invention to the surface of the nail or of false nails which has been rubbed following step i), wherein a coat consisting of at least one coat of said composition according to the invention is deposited,
iii) exposing the coated nail or false nails obtained following step ii) to an LED lamp or a UV lamp, such that the photo-crosslinking is carried out so as to obtain a crosslinked coat.
The weight percentages given in this application can be categorized as the percentage by weight of dry matter of the compounds used, unless otherwise expressly mentioned.
The invention will be better understood on reading the following description, given solely by way of example.
According to a first exemplary embodiment, the following first composition was prepared:
The ingredients of the composition are introduced into an opaque flask and stirred away from light with a laboratory mixer of the Rayneri brand until a homogeneous mixture is obtained. A sheet of aluminium will have been placed over the container beforehand in order to prevent evaporation of the solvents.
On a nail roughened beforehand for less than 5 seconds using a file with a particle size of 280, the first composition described above was applied to said nail so as to form a base coating or base coat.
After application, the nail is placed under a 36 W UV lamp for 3 minutes in order to crosslink the composition so as to form a film.
The following top composition is then prepared:
The ingredients of the composition are introduced into an opaque flask and stirred away from light with a laboratory mixer of the Rayneri brand until a homogeneous mixture is obtained. A sheet of aluminium will have been placed over the container beforehand in order to prevent evaporation of the solvents.
This composition is applied to the first coating (base coating) in the form of one or more coats so as to form a top coating.
After application of each coat, in the case just one, the nail is placed under a 36 W UV lamp for 3 minutes in order to crosslink the composition so as to form a film, this operation being repeated for each coat applied.
After having crosslinked the final coat, the surface is cleaned with cotton wool soaked in isopropanol in order to remove the tacky coat.
According to another exemplary embodiment, prior to this top coating, a coloured composition similar to this top composition, except that this composition additionally comprises one or more colouring agent(s), is applied. Such a coloured composition has the following composition:
The ingredients of the composition are introduced into an opaque flask and stirred away from light with a laboratory mixer of the Rayneri brand until a homogeneous mixture is obtained. A sheet of aluminium will have been placed over the container beforehand in order to prevent evaporation of the solvents.
After application of the base coating, one or more coats of the coloured composition, in the case two coats, was (were) applied to the base coating. After the application of each coat, the nail is placed under a 36 W UV lamp for 3 minutes in order to crosslink the composition so as to form a coloured coating in the form of a film.
After application of the coloured coating and photo-crosslinking of this coating in the form of a film, the top composition previously described is then applied to this coloured coating in the form of one or more coats, in the case a single coat. After the application of this coat, the nail is placed under a 36 W UV lamp for 3 minutes in order to crosslink the composition so as to form a top coating in the form of a film.
After having crosslinked the final coat, the surface is cleaned with cotton wool soaked in isopropanol in order to remove the tacky coat.
Comparative Composition:
On a nail roughened beforehand for less than 5 seconds using a file with a particle size of 280, the comparative composition described above was applied to said nail so as to form a base coat.
After application of the base coating, one or more coats of the coloured composition previously described, in the case two coats, was (were) applied to the base coating. After the application of each coat, the nail is placed under a 36 W UV lamp for 3 minutes in order to crosslink the composition so as to form a coloured coating in the form of a film.
After application of the coloured coating and photo-crosslinking of this coating in the form of a film, the top composition previously described is then applied to this coloured coating in the form of one or more coats, in the case a single coat. After the application of this coat, the nail is placed under a 36 W UV lamp for 3 minutes in order to crosslink the composition so as to form a top coating in the form of a film.
After having crosslinked the final coat, the surface is cleaned with cotton wool soaked in isopropanol in order to remove the tacky coat.
The wear property performance levels on the nail, of the compositions according to the invention and also of a comparative composition, are evaluated. Chipping of the varnish, wearing of the varnish and also loss of gloss of the varnish are thus observed for the comparative composition.
In the two embodiments according to the invention evaluated, each including a base coating comprising a photo-crosslinkable composition in accordance with the invention, a varnish exhibiting a good wear property on the nail is thus obtained.
It is thus noted that the wear property of the compositions according to the invention comprising a (poly)urethane poly(ALK)acrylate compound comprising a (poly)oxyalkylene unit is better for a period of 5 days, preferably for a period of 10 days and even more preferentially for a period of 14 days compared with a comparative composition comprising a (poly)urethane poly(ALK)acrylate compound free of (poly)oxyalkylene unit.
This wear performance is produced with only a very slight roughening of the nail before application of said compositions, making it possible to avoid the conventional invasive method of attaching a photo-crosslinkable composition to the nails by sanding the surface of the nail, while at the same time preserving performance levels equivalent to or even better than products currently on the market.
Furthermore, the ingredients used in the compositions according to the invention make it possible to have, after photo-crosslinking of the film, an extremely low content of extractable compounds comprising reactive (meth)acrylate functions with potentially sensitising effects.
The varnish can then be completely removed after having been in contact with acetone for 15 minutes, this time again therefore without a conventional invasive method using a metal tool, and electric sander, or an abrasive file by rubbing against the surface of the made-up nail in order to remove the composition.
Throughout the application, the wording “comprising one” or “including one” means “comprising at least one” or “including at least one”, unless otherwise specified.
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1362080 | Dec 2013 | FR | national |
| Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/EP14/75918 | 11/28/2014 | WO | 00 |
