Patent Application
20250082555
The present invention relates to a process for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising the application to said fibres of an extemporaneous mixture of at least one cosmetic composition comprising propane-1,3-diol and at least one dyeing composition.
The invention also relates to a multi-compartment device comprising at least one first compartment containing the cosmetic composition comprising propane-1,3-diol and at least one second compartment containing the dyeing composition.
In processes for dyeing keratin fibres, it is known to dye keratin fibres by different techniques starting from direct dyes for non-permanent colourings or oxidation dye precursors for permanent colourings.
Non-permanent dyeing or direct dyeing consists in dyeing keratin fibres with dyeing compositions containing direct dyes. These dyes are coloured and colouring molecules that have affinity for keratin fibres. They are applied to the keratin fibres for a time necessary to obtain the desired colouring, and are then rinsed out.
Some of these dyes may be used under lightening conditions, which enables the production of colourings that are visible on dark hair.
It is also known practice to dye keratin fibres permanently via oxidation dyeing. This dyeing technique consists in applying to the keratin fibres a composition containing dye precursors such as oxidation bases and couplers. Under the action of an oxidizing agent, these precursors form one or more coloured substances in the hair.
However, the current dyeing processes can have a certain number of drawbacks. This is because, after application of the composition used in the process to keratin fibres, the dyeing power obtained may not be entirely satisfactory, indeed even be weak, and may result in a restricted range of colours. The colourings obtained may also be insufficiently persistent with respect to external agents, such as light, shampoos or perspiration, and may also be too selective, that is to say that the difference in colouring is too great along one and the same keratin fibre which is differently sensitized between its end and its root.
In addition, consumers are also in search of a dyeing process using compositions which are more environmentally friendly.
Thus, there exists a real need to make available a process for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, which does not exhibit the abovementioned disadvantages, that is to say which is capable of resulting in good performance qualities, in particular in terms of colour build-up, of power and of chromaticity, while having a low selectivity and good persistence, for a wide range of shades.
One subject of the present invention is therefore a process for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibres of an extemporaneous mixture:
When said oxidizing agent(s) are present in the dyeing composition B, then said dyeing composition B preferably itself results from the mixing of a composition comprising one or more alkaline agents and one or more dyes chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes and mixtures thereof and of an additional oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents.
Preferably, when compositions A and/or B comprise at least one oxidation dye, the extemporaneous mixture comprises one or more oxidizing agents present in an oxidizing composition C.
Advantageously, the composition A is a booster composition, the composition B is a dyeing composition, optionally comprising an oxidizing agent, and the composition C is an oxidizing composition. The term “booster” composition is intended to mean that the composition A, comprising propane-1,3-diol, makes it possible in particular to improve the dyeing performance of the dyeing composition B.
The process according to the invention results in good dyeing properties with reduced contents of dye(s) and/or of oxidizing agent(s) during the dyeing process.
Propane-1,3-diol is in addition an environmentally friendly solvent which can be produced biologically. It thus also meets the demand of consumers for processes for dyeing keratin fibres, which are more environmentally friendly.
The process according to the invention thus makes it possible to achieve the above objectives, in particular in terms of colour build-up, of power of the colouring, of chromaticity, of selectivity and of persistence of the colouring, in particular with respect to shampoos, and also good working qualities, in particular easy application all along the fibre.
The process according to the invention also makes it possible to result in good cosmetic properties, in particular in terms of sheen and a more natural feel, and in a good level of comfort of the scalp.
The present invention also relates to a multi-compartment device comprising at least one first compartment containing the cosmetic composition A according to the invention as described above and at least one second compartment containing the composition B according to the invention.
Other subjects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will become even more clearly apparent on reading the description and the example which follows.
In the text hereinbelow, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range, notably in the expressions “between” and “ranging from . . . to . . . ”.
Moreover, the expression “at least one” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “one or more”.
The cosmetic composition A used in the process according to the invention comprises propane-1,3-diol.
The total content of propane-1,3-diol, present in the cosmetic composition A used in the process of the invention, is greater than or equal to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition A. Preferably, the total content of propane-1,3-diol, present in the cosmetic composition A, ranges from 3% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 4% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 4% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition A.
Preferably, composition B is different from composition A.
Preferably, composition B does not comprise propane-1,3-diol in a content greater than or equal to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition B.
Preferably, composition B does not comprise propane-1,3-diol.
The cosmetic composition A and the dyeing composition B used in the process according to the invention comprise one or more alkaline agent(s).
The alkaline agent(s) can be chosen from inorganic, organic or hybrid alkaline agents.
For the purposes of the present invention, the terms “alkaline agent” and “basifying agent” are used without distinction.
The inorganic basifying agent(s) are preferably chosen from aqueous ammonia, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal carbonates or bicarbonates, such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonate, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal phosphates, such as sodium phosphates or potassium phosphates, sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates, such as sodium metasilicate, and mixtures thereof.
The organic basifying agent(s) are preferably chosen from alkanolamines, amino acids, organic amines other than alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, 1,3-diaminopropane, spermine, spermidine and mixtures thereof.
The term “alkanolamine” means an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched C1-C8 alkyl groups bearing one or more hydroxyl radicals.
Organic amines chosen from alkanolamines such as monoalkanolamines, dialkanolamines or trialkanolamines comprising one to three identical or different C1 to C4 hydroxyalkyl radicals are in particular suitable for performing the invention.
In particular, the alkanolamine(s) are chosen from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane and mixtures thereof.
Advantageously, the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function. Such basic amino acids are preferably chosen from histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine and citrulline.
The organic amine can also be chosen from organic amines of heterocyclic type. Mention may in particular be made, besides histidine already mentioned in the amino acids, of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole or benzimidazole. The organic amine can also be chosen from amino acid dipeptides. Mention may in particular be made, as amino acid dipeptides which can be used in the present invention, of carnosine, anserine and balenine. The organic amine can also be chosen from compounds comprising a guanidine function. Mention may in particular be made, as amines of this type other than arginine which can be used in the present invention, of creatine, creatinine, 1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1-diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, N-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-1-sulfonic acid.
Use may in particular be made, as hybrid compounds, of guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride.
The alkaline agent(s) are preferably chosen from alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine; aqueous ammonia, carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonate, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from aqueous ammonia and alkanolamines, better still from alkanolamines, even better still the alkaline agent is monoethanolamine.
Preferably, the alkaline agent(s) are organic.
According to one particular embodiment, one of the compositions A and B according to the invention is free of aqueous ammonia.
According to another particular embodiment, the compositions A and B according to the invention are both free of aqueous ammonia.
The term “free of aqueous ammonia” is understood to mean that the cosmetic composition A and/or the dyeing composition B according to the invention do not comprise aqueous ammonia. In other words, the content of aqueous ammonia in the cosmetic composition A and/or the dyeing composition B is 0% by weight, relative to the weight of said composition.
Advantageously, the total content of the alkaline agent(s), present in the cosmetic composition A or in the dyeing composition B, ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 8% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition comprising them.
Advantageously, the total content of the alkaline agent(s), present in the extemporaneous mixture of the compositions A and B of the process of the invention, ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 8% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the mixture.
In a particular embodiment, the alkaline agent(s) are chosen from alkanolamines and mixtures thereof, preferably monoethanolamine, and the total content of the alkanolamine(s), present in the cosmetic composition A and/or the dyeing composition B according to the invention, preferably ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition comprising them.
According to this particular embodiment, the total content of the alkanolamine(s), present in the extemporaneous mixture applied in the process according to the invention, preferably ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the mixture.
According to one embodiment, the pH of the cosmetic composition A and of the dyeing composition B is between 5 and 8, preferably between 6 and 7.
The pH of the compositions A and B can be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidic or alkaline agent(s) commonly used in the dyeing of keratin fibres, such as those described above, or else using buffer systems known to those skilled in the art.
The cosmetic composition A and the dyeing composition B used in the dyeing process according to the invention also comprise one or more dyes chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes and mixtures thereof.
The oxidation dyes may be chosen from one or more oxidation bases, optionally in combination with one or more couplers.
Preferably, the cosmetic composition A and/or the dyeing composition B according to the invention comprise one or more oxidation bases.
The oxidation bases may be present in the form of salts, solvates and/or solvates of salts.
The addition salts of the oxidation bases present in the composition according to the invention are chosen notably from the addition salts with an acid, such as the hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, methanesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and the addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
Moreover, the solvates of the additional oxidation bases more particularly represent the hydrates of said oxidation bases and/or the combination of said oxidation bases with a linear or branched C1 to C4 alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.
The oxidation bases can be chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bisphenylalkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
Mention may be made, among the para-phenylenediamines, by way of example, of para-phenylenediamine, para-tolylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-chloroaniline, 2-β-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-γ-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-(β-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-ethyl-N-(β-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(β,γ-dihydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(4′-aminophenyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, N-(β-methoxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-aminotoluene, 3-hydroxy-1-(4′-aminophenyl)pyrrolidine and the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof, and the solvates of the salts thereof.
Among the para-phenylenediamines mentioned above, para-phenylenediamine, para-tolylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-γ-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine and 2-β-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, and the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof, and the solvates of the salts thereof are particularly preferred.
Among the bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, examples that may be mentioned include N,N′-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-N,N′-bis(4′-aminophenyl)-1,3-diaminopropanol, N,N′-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-N,N′-bis(4′-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N′-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N′-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-N,N′-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N′-bis(4-methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N′-bis(ethyl)-N,N′-bis(4′-amino-3′-methylphenyl)ethylenediamine and 1,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,6-dioxaoctane, and the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof, and the solvates of the salts thereof.
Among the para-aminophenols, examples that may be mentioned include para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-(β-hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2-fluorophenol, and the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof, and the solvates of the salts thereof.
Among the ortho-aminophenols, examples that may be mentioned include 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol, and the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof, and the solvates of the salts thereof.
Among the heterocyclic bases, examples that may be mentioned include pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives and pyrazole derivatives.
Mention may be made, among the pyridine derivatives, of the compounds described, for example, in patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, such as 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3-aminopyridine, 3,4-diaminopyridine and the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof, and the solvates of the salts thereof.
Other pyridine oxidation bases that are useful in the present invention are the 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases or the addition salts thereof described, for example, in patent application FR 2 801 308. Mention may be made, by way of example, of pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-3-ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-3-ylamine, 2-(morpholin-4-yl)pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-3-ylamine, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-2-carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-3-ylamine, (3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-7-yl)methanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-5-yl)ethanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-7-yl)ethanol, (3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-2-yl)methanol, 3,6-diaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine, 3,4-diaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine, pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-3,7-diamine, 7-(morpholin-4-yl)pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-3-ylamine, pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-3,5-diamine, 5-(morpholin-4-yl)pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-3-ylamine, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-5-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-7-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-5-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-4-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-6-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-7-ol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-2-yl)oxyethanol and also the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof, and the solvates of the salts thereof.
Among the pyrimidine derivatives, mention may be made of the compounds described, for example, in patents DE 2359399, JP 88-169571, JP 05-63124 and EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96/15765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and the addition salts thereof and the tautomeric forms thereof, when a tautomeric equilibrium exists.
Among the pyrazole derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described in patents DE 3843892 and DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94/08969, WO 94/08970, FR-A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988, such as 4,5-diamino-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(4′-chlorobenzyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, 1-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-tert-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-(4′-methoxyphenyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-hydroxymethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4-amino-5-(2′-aminoethyl)amino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 1-methyl-3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-1-methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole and 3,5-diamino-4-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-1-methylpyrazole, and the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof, and the solvates of the salts thereof. Use may also be made of 4,5-diamino-1-(β-methoxyethyl)pyrazole.
Preferably, use will be made of a 4,5-diaminopyrazole and more preferentially still of 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and/or a salt thereof, a solvate thereof, a solvate of the salts thereof.
Pyrazole derivatives that may also be mentioned include diamino-N,N-dihydropyrazolopyrazolones and notably those described in patent application FR-A-2 886 136, such as the following compounds and the addition salts thereof: 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-(pyrrolidin-1-yl)-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2-amino-3-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-dimethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-1H,6H-pyridazino[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 4-amino-1,2-diethyl-5-(pyrrolidin-1-yl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4-amino-5-(3-dimethylaminopyrrolidin-1-yl)-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, the salts thereof, the solvates thereof and/or solvates of the salts thereof.
Use will preferably be made of 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one and/or a salt thereof, a solvate thereof, or a solvate of the salts thereof.
Heterocyclic bases that will preferentially be used include 4,5-diamino-1-(P-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and/or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one and/or 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-2-yl)oxyethanol and/or a salt thereof, solvates thereof or solvates of the salts thereof.
Preferably, the oxidation base(s) are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates thereof and/or the solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from para-aminophenol, 2,3-diaminodihydropyrazolopyralozone, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-γ-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof, the solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
The oxidation dye(s) may also comprise one or more couplers, which may be chosen from the couplers conventionally used for the dyeing of keratin fibres.
Preferably, the cosmetic composition A and/or the dyeing composition B according to the invention comprise one or more couplers.
Preferably, the couplers are chosen from meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based couplers and heterocyclic couplers, and also the addition salts thereof, and/or the solvates thereof, and/or the solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
Examples that may be mentioned include 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1-hydroxy-3-aminobenzene, 1-methyl-2-hydroxy-4-β-hydroxyethylaminobenzene, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene, 5-amino-6-chloro-2-methylphenol, 2,4-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-4-(β-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diaminobenzene, 1,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline, 3-ureido-1-dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol, 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, α-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 5-methoxy-6-hydroxyindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 2-amino-4-hydroxyethylaminoanisole, 3-amino-6-methoxy-2-methylaminopyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 1-N-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, 2,6-bis(β-hydroxyethylamino)toluene, 6-hydroxyindoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 2-chloro-3,5-diaminopyridine, 2-chloro-3,5-diamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2-chloro-3,5-diamino-6-methylpyridine, 1-H-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 4-(3,5-diaminopyridin-2-yl)-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)-1-methylpiperazin-1-ium chloride, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo[1,5-b]-1,2,4-triazole, 2,4,6-trimethoxyaniline hydrochlorate, 2,6-dimethyl[3,2-c]-1,2,4-triazole, 6-methylpyrazolo[1,5-a]benzimidazole and 2,6-diaminopyrazine, the addition salts thereof and/or the solvates thereof and/or the solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the coupler(s) used in the invention are chosen from 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1-hydroxy-3-aminobenzene, 1-methyl-2-hydroxy-4-β-hydroxyethylaminobenzene, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene, 5-amino-6-chloro-2-methylphenol, 2,4-diamino-1-(P-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, α-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 3-amino-6-methoxy-2-methylaminopyridine, 2-amino-4-hydroxyethylaminoanisole, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline and 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof, the solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
Even more preferentially, the coupler(s) used in the invention are chosen from 3-amino-6-methoxy-2-methylaminopyridine, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 2,4-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 5-amino-6-chloro-2-methylphenol, 1-methyl-2-hydroxy-4-β-hydroxyethylaminobenzene, 2-amino-4-hydroxyethylaminoanisole, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, 1-hydroxy-3-aminobenzene and 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof, the solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
In general, the addition salts of the couplers which can be used in the context of the invention are in particular chosen from the addition salts with an acid, such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and the addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
Moreover, the solvates more particularly represent the hydrates of these couplers and/or the combination of these couplers with a linear or branched C1 to C4 alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.
Preferably, the couplers which can be used in the present invention are chosen from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 2,4-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 5-amino-6-chloro-2-methylphenol, 1-methyl-2-hydroxy-4-β-hydroxyethylaminobenzene, 2-amino-4-hydroxyethylaminoanisole, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, 1-hydroxy-3-aminobenzene, the addition salts thereof, the salts thereof and/or the solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
Even better still, the coupler(s) is or are chosen from: 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof, the solvates of the salts thereof, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof, the solvates of the salts thereof, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof, the solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
Advantageously, when they are present in the cosmetic composition A and/or the dyeing composition B used in the process of the invention, the total content of the oxidation base(s) ranges from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 7% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition comprising them.
Advantageously, when they are present in the cosmetic composition A and/or the dyeing composition B used in the process of the invention, the total content of the coupler(s) ranges from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 7% by weight, and more preferentially from 0.01% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition comprising them.
Advantageously, when they are present in the composition A and/or the composition B used in the process of the invention, the total content of the oxidation dye(s) ranges from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 7% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition comprising them.
Advantageously, when they are present in the extemporaneous mixture applied in the process of the invention, the total content of the oxidation base(s) ranges from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 7% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the mixture.
Advantageously, when they are present in the extemporaneous mixture applied in the process of the invention, the total content of the coupler(s) ranges from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 7% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the mixture.
Advantageously, when they are present in the extemporaneous mixture applied in the process of the invention, the total content of the oxidation dye(s) ranges from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 7% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the mixture.
The term “direct dye” means natural and/or synthetic dyes, other than oxidation dyes. These are dyes that will spread superficially on the fibre.
The synthetic direct dyes are, for example, chosen from the dyes conventionally used for direct dyeing, and among which mention may be made of all the aromatic and/or non-aromatic dyes that are commonly used, such as nitrobenzene, azo, hydrazono, nitro(hetero)aryl, tri(hetero)arylmethane, (poly)methine, carbonyl, azine, porphyrin, metalloporphyrin, quinone and in particular anthraquinone, indoamine and phthalocyanine direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.
Among the nitrobenzene direct dyes, mention may be made of: 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 1-amino-2-nitro-4-β-hydroxyethylaminobenzene; 1-amino-2-nitro-4-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)aminobenzene; 1,4-bis(β-hydroxyethylamino)-2-nitrobenzene; 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-bis(β-hydroxyethylamino)benzene; 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-aminobenzene; 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-(ethyl)(β-hydroxyethyl)aminobenzene; 1-amino-3-methyl-4-β-hydroxyethylamino-6-nitrobenzene; 1-amino-2-nitro-4-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-chlorobenzene; 1,2-diamino-4-nitrobenzene; 1-amino-2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; 1,2-bis(3-hydroxyethylamino)-4-nitrobenzene; 1-amino-2-tris(hydroxymethyl)methylamino-5-nitrobenzene; 1-hydroxy-2-amino-5-nitrobenzene; 1-hydroxy-2-amino-4-nitrobenzene; 1-hydroxy-3-nitro-4-aminobenzene; 1-hydroxy-2-amino-4,6-dinitrobenzene; 1-β-hydroxyethyloxy-2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; 1-methoxy-2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; 1-β-hydroxyethyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene; 1-β,γ-dihydroxypropyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene; 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-4-β,γ-dihydroxypropyloxy-2-nitrobenzene; 1-β,γ-dihydroxypropylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene; 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene; 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-3-methyl-2-nitrobenzene; 1-β-aminoethylamino-5-methoxy-2-nitrobenzene; 1-hydroxy-2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrobenzene; 1-hydroxy-2-chloro-6-amino-4-nitrobenzene; 1-hydroxy-6-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-3-nitrobenzene; 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitrobenzene; 1-hydroxy-4-β-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzene.
Among the azo direct dyes, mention may be made of: Basic Red 51, Basic Orange 31, Disperse Red 17, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Black 1, Basic Red 22, Basic Red 76, Basic Yellow 57, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Orange 24, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17.
Among the hydrazono direct dyes, mention may be made of: Basic Yellow 87.
Among the nitroaryl direct dyes, mention may be made of: HC Blue 2, HC Yellow 2, HC Red 3, 4-hydroxypropylamino-3-nitrophenol, N,N′-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-nitrophenylenediamine.
Among the triarylmethane direct dyes, mention may be made of: Basic Violet 1, Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 4, Basic Violet 14, Basic Blue 1, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Green 1, Basic Blue 77 (also known as HC Blue 15), Acid Blue 1; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid Green 3; Acid Green 5; Acid Green 50.
Among the quinone direct dyes, mention may be made of: Disperse Red 15, Solvent Violet 13, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Blue 1, Disperse Violet 8, Disperse Blue 3, Disperse Red 11, Acid Blue 62, Disperse Blue 7, Basic Blue 22, Disperse Violet 15, Basic Blue 99, and also the following compounds: 1-N-methylmorpholiniumpropylamino-4-hydroxyanthraquinone, 1-aminopropylamino-4-methylaminoanthraquinone, 1-aminopropylaminoanthraquinone, 5-β-hydroxyethyl-1,4-diaminoanthraquinone, 2-aminoethylaminoanthraquinone, 1,4-bis(β,γ-dihydroxypropylamino)anthraquinone, Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Mordant Red 3, Acid Black 48, HC Blue 16.
Among the azine direct dyes, mention may be made of: Basic Blue 17, Basic Red 2.
Among the indoamine direct dyes, mention may be made of: 2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-[bis(B-4′-hydroxyethyl)amino]anilino-1,4-benzoquinone, 2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-(2′-methoxy-4′-amino)anilino-1,4-benzoquinone, 3-N-(2′-chloro-4′-hydroxy)phenylacetylamino-6-methoxy-1,4-benzoquinoneimine, 3-N-(3′-chloro-4′-methylamino)phenylureido-6-methyl-1,4-benzoquinoneimine, 3-[4′-N-(ethylcarbamylmethyl)amino]phenylureido-6-methyl-1,4-benzoquinoneimine.
The natural direct dyes are chosen, for example, from lawsone, juglone, indigo, leuco indigo, indirubin, isatin, hennotannic acid, alizarin, carthamine, morin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, laccaic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidin, orceins, carotenoids, betanin, chlorophylls, chlorophyllines, monascus, polyphenols or ortho-diphenols.
Among the ortho-diphenols that are useful according to the invention, mention may be made of: catechin, quercetin, brazilin, haematein, haematoxylin, chlorogenic acid, caffeic acid, gallic acid, L-DOPA, cyanidin, (−)-epicatechin, (−)-epigallocatechin, (−)-epigallocatechin 3-gallate (EGCG), isoquercetin, pomiferin, esculetin, 6,7-dihydroxy-3-(3-hydroxy-2,4-dimethoxyphenyl)coumarin, santalin A and B, mangiferin, butein, maritimetin, sulfuretin, robtein, betanidin, pericampylinone A, theaflavin, proanthocyanidin A2, proanthocyanidin B2, proanthocyanidin C1, procyanidins DP 4-8, tannic acid, purpurogallin, 5,6-dihydroxy-2-methyl-1,4-naphthoquinone, alizarin, wedelolactone and natural extracts containing same.
Advantageously, when they are present in the cosmetic composition A and/or the dyeing composition B used in the process of the invention, the content of the direct dye(s) ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition comprising them.
Advantageously, when they are present in the extemporaneous mixture applied in the process according to the invention, the total content of the direct dye(s) ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the mixture.
When the cosmetic composition A and/or the dyeing composition B comprises one or more oxidation dyes, the extemporaneous mixture applied in the process according to the invention also comprises one or more chemical oxidizing agents; said chemical oxidizing agent(s) being included in the dyeing composition B and/or in an oxidizing composition C. In other words, the oxidizing composition C is different from the compositions A and B.
When said oxidizing agent(s) are present in the dyeing composition B, then said dyeing composition B preferably itself results from the mixing of a composition comprising one or more alkaline agents and one or more dyes, as defined above, and of an additional oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents.
The term “chemical oxidizing agent” is understood to mean, within the meaning of the present invention, an oxidizing agent other than atmospheric oxygen.
The chemical oxidizing agent(s) which can be used in the present invention can be chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts, such as perborates and persulfates, in particular sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate and ammonium persulfate, peracids and oxidase enzymes (with their optional cofactors), among which mention may be made of peroxidases, 2-electron oxidoreductases, such as uricases, and 4-electron oxygenases, such as laccases, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persalts and mixtures thereof, more preferably hydrogen peroxide.
Preferably, when they are present in the dyeing composition B and/or the oxidizing composition C according to the invention, the total content of the chemical oxidizing agent(s) ranges from 0.1% to 35% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 25% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition comprising them.
According to a preferred embodiment, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persalts and mixtures thereof are present in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 35% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 25% by weight, more preferentially still from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition comprising them.
Preferably, when they are present in the extemporaneous mixture applied in the process according to the invention, the total content of the chemical oxidizing agent(s) ranges from 0.1% to 35% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 25% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the mixture.
According to one preferred embodiment, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persalts and mixtures thereof, preferably hydrogen peroxide, are present, in the extemporaneous mixture applied in the process according to the invention, in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 35% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 25% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the mixture.
The cosmetic composition A, the dyeing composition B and/or the oxidizing composition C used in the process according to the invention may optionally also comprise one or more cationic polymers.
Preferably, when they are present, the cationic polymer(s) are present in the cosmetic composition A.
The cationic polymer(s) which can be used can be chosen from associative cationic polymers and non-associative cationic polymers, and mixtures thereof.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “cationic polymer” means any polymer comprising cationic groups and/or groups that may be ionized to cationic groups. The preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those that contain units including primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups that may either form part of the main polymer chain or may be borne by a side substituent directly connected thereto.
Preferably, the cationic polymers according to the invention do not comprise any anionic groups or any groups that can be ionized into an anionic group.
The cationic polymers which can be used preferably have a weight-average molar mass (Mw) of between 500 and 5×106 approximately and preferably between 103 and 3×106 approximately.
Among the non-associative cationic polymers, mention may be made more particularly of:
The copolymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units derived from comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower (C1-C4) alkyls, acrylic acids or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.
Among these copolymers of family (1), mention may be made of:
The cellulose ether derivatives including quaternary ammonium groups are notably described in FR 1 492 597, and mention may be made of the polymers sold under the name Ucare Polymer JR (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or LR (LR 400 and LR 30M) by Amerchol. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethyl cellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.
Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described notably in patent U.S. Pat. No. 4,131,576, and mention may be made of hydroxyalkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl celluloses notably grafted with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamido-propyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt. The commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by National Starch.
The cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in patents U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,589,578 and 4,031,307, and mention may be made of guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups. Use is made, for example, of guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example, a chloride). Such products are notably sold under the names Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17 and Jaguar C162 by Rhodia;
Mention may be made more particularly of the dimethyldiallylammonium salt (for example chloride) homopolymer sold, for example, under the name Merquat 100 by Nalco (and homologues thereof of low weight-average molar masses) and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts (for example chloride) and of acrylamide, notably sold under the names Merquat 550 and Merquat 7SPR;
Preferably, X− is an anion, such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number-average molar mass (Mn) generally of between 1000 and 100 000.
Mention may be made more particularly of polymers which are constituted of repeating units corresponding to the formula:
A compound of formula (IX) that is particularly preferred is the one for which R1, R2, R3 and R4 represent a methyl radical and n=3, p=6 and X═Cl, which is known as Hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI (CTFA) nomenclature;
Examples that may be mentioned include the products Mirapol® A 15, Mirapol® AD1, Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol® 175 sold by Miranol;
In other words, these polymers may be notably chosen from homopolymers or copolymers including one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.
Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers including, in their structure, from 5 mol % to 100 mol % of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 95 mol % of units corresponding to formula (B), preferentially from 10 mol % to 100 mol % of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 90 mol % of units corresponding to formula (B).
These polymers may be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis may take place in acidic or basic medium.
The weight-average molecular mass of said polymer, measured by light scattering, may range from 1000 to 3 000 000 g/mol, preferably from 10 000 to 1 000 000 and more particularly from 100 000 to 500 000 g/mol.
The cationic charge density of these polymers may range from 2 meq/g to 20 meq/g, preferably from 2.5 to 15 meq/g and more particularly from 3.5 to 10 meq/g.
The polymers including units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are notably sold under the name Lupamin by BASF, for instance, in a non-limiting manner, the products sold under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin 1095, Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010.
The cationic polymers can also be chosen from associative cationic polymers.
It is recalled that “associative polymers” are polymers that are capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with one another or with other molecules.
Their chemical structure more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic zone and at least one hydrophobic zone.
The term “hydrophobic group” means a radical or polymer with a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms.
Preferentially, the hydrocarbon group is derived from a monofunctional compound. By way of example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol. It may also denote a hydrocarbon polymer, for instance polybutadiene.
Among the associative cationic polymers which can be used, mention may be made, alone or as a mixture, of:
R—X—(P)n-[L-(Y)m]r-L′-(P′)p—X′—R′
Preferably, the only hydrophobic groups are the groups R and R′ at the chain ends.
One preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is the one corresponding to formula (Ia) described above, in which:
Another preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is the one corresponding to formula (Ia) above in which:
Yet another preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is the one corresponding to formula (Ia) above in which:
The number-average molecular mass (Mn) of the cationic associative polyurethanes is preferably between 400 and 500 000 inclusive, in particular between 1000 and 400 000 inclusive and ideally between 1000 and 300 000 inclusive.
The term “hydrophobic group” means a radical or polymer containing a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain, which may contain one or more heteroatoms such as P, O, N or S, or a radical containing a perfluoro or silicone chain. When the hydrophobic group denotes a hydrocarbon radical, it includes at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.
Preferentially, the hydrocarbon group is derived from a monofunctional compound.
By way of example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol. It may also denote a hydrocarbon polymer, for instance polybutadiene.
When X and/or X′ denote(s) a group including a tertiary or quaternary amine, X and/or X′ may represent one of the following formulae:
The groups L, L′ and L″ represent a group of formula:
The groups P and P′ comprising an amine function may represent at least one of the following formulae:
As regards the meaning of Y, the term “hydrophilic group” means a polymeric or non-polymeric water-soluble group.
By way of example, when it is not a polymer, mention may be made of ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol.
When it is a hydrophilic polymer, in accordance with one preferred embodiment, mention may be made, for example, of polyethers, sulfonated polyesters, sulfonated polyamides or a mixture of these polymers. The hydrophilic compound is preferentially a polyether and notably a poly(ethylene oxide) or poly(propylene oxide).
The cationic associative polyurethanes of formula (Ia) according to the invention are formed from diisocyanates and from various compounds bearing functions containing labile hydrogen. The functions containing labile hydrogen may be alcohol, primary or secondary amine or thiol functions, giving, after reaction with the diisocyanate functions, polyurethanes, polyureas and polythioureas, respectively. In the present invention, the term “polyurethanes” encompasses these three types of polymer, namely polyurethanes per se, polyureas and polythioureas, and also copolymers thereof.
A first type of compound involved in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) is a compound including at least one unit bearing an amine function. This compound may be multifunctional, but the compound is preferentially difunctional, that is to say that, according to a preferential embodiment, this compound includes two labile hydrogen atoms borne, for example, by a hydroxyl, primary amine, secondary amine or thiol function. A mixture of multifunctional and difunctional compounds in which the percentage of multifunctional compounds is low may also be used.
As mentioned above, this compound may include more than one unit containing an amine function. In this case, it is a polymer bearing a repetition of the unit containing an amine function.
Compounds of this type may be represented by one of the following formulae:
Examples that may be mentioned include N-methyldiethanolamine, N-tert-butyldiethanolamine and N-sulfoethyldiethanolamine.
The second compound included in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (XIV) is a diisocyanate corresponding to the formula: O═C═N—R4—N═C═O in which R4 is as defined above.
By way of example, mention may be made of methylenediphenyl diisocyanate, methylenecyclohexane diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, tolylene diisocyanate, naphthalene diisocyanate, butane diisocyanate and hexane diisocyanate.
A third compound involved in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) is a hydrophobic compound intended to form the terminal hydrophobic groups of the polymer of formula (Ia).
This compound is constituted of a hydrophobic group and a function containing a labile hydrogen, for example a hydroxyl, primary or secondary amine, or thiol function.
By way of example, this compound may be a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol. When this compound includes a polymeric chain, it may be, for example, α-hydroxylated hydrogenated polybutadiene.
The hydrophobic group of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) may also result from the quaternization reaction of the tertiary amine of the compound including at least one tertiary amine unit. Thus, the hydrophobic group is introduced via the quaternizing agent. This quaternizing agent is a compound of the type RQ or R′Q, in which R and R′ are as defined above and Q denotes a leaving group such as a halide, a sulfate, etc.
The cationic associative polyurethane may also comprise a hydrophilic block. This block is provided by a fourth type of compound involved in the preparation of the polymer. This compound may be multifunctional. It is preferably difunctional. It is also possible to have a mixture in which the percentage of multifunctional compound is low.
The functions containing labile hydrogen are alcohol, primary or secondary amine or thiol functions. This compound may be a polymer terminated at the chain ends with one of these functions containing labile hydrogen.
By way of example, when it is not a polymer, mention may be made of ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol.
When it is a hydrophilic polymer, mention may be made, for example, of polyethers, sulfonated polyesters and sulfonated polyamides, or a mixture of these polymers. The hydrophilic compound is preferentially a polyether and notably a poly(ethylene oxide) or poly(propylene oxide).
The hydrophilic group termed Y in formula (Ia) is optional. Specifically, the units containing a quaternary or protonated amine function may suffice to provide the solubility or water-dispersibility required for this type of polymer in an aqueous solution.
Although the presence of a hydrophilic group Y is optional, cationic associative polyurethanes including such a group are, however, preferred.
Preferably, mention may be made of quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl groups, linear or branched arylalkyl groups, or linear or branched alkylaryl groups, preferably linear or branched alkyl groups, these groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24 or even from 10 to 14 carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.
Preferentially, mention may be made of the hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib):
Preferably, in formula (Ib), at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R′a, R′b and R′c represents a linear or branched C8-C30, better still C10-C24, or even C10-C14, alkyl; mention may be made in particular of the dodecyl radical (C12). Preferably, the other radical(s) represent a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl, in particular methyl.
Preferably, in formula (Ib), only one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R′a, R′b and R′c represents a linear or branched C8-C30, better still C10-C24, or even C10-C14, alkyl; mention may be made in particular of the dodecyl radical (C12). Preferably, the other radicals represent a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl, in particular methyl.
Even better still, R can be a group chosen from —N+(CH3)3 Q′− and —N+(C12H25)(CH3)2 Q′−, preferably an —N+(CH3)3 Q′− group.
Even better still, R′ may be a group —N+(C12H25)(CH3)2, Q′−.
The aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.
Mention may notably be made of the polymers having the following INCI names:
Mention may also be made of the hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib) in which R represents a trimethylammonium halide and R′ represents a dimethyldodecylammonium halide, preferentially R represents trimethylammonium chloride (CH3)3N+—, Cl− and R′ represents dimethyldodecylammonium chloride (CH3)2(C12H25)N+—, Cl−. This type of polymer is known under the INCI name Polyquaternium-67; as commercial products, mention may be made of the Softcat Polymer SL® polymers, such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30 and SL-5, from Amerchol/Dow Chemical.
More particularly, the polymers of formula (Ib) are, for example, those the viscosity of which is between 2000 and 3000 cPs inclusive, preferentially between 2700 and 2800 cPs. Typically, Softcat Polymer SL-5 has a viscosity of 2500 cPs, Softcat Polymer SL-30 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs, Softcat Polymer SL-60 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs and Softcat Polymer SL-100 has a viscosity of 2800 cPs. Use may also be made of Softcat Polymer SX-1300X with a viscosity of between 1000 and 2000 cPs.
—(Y2)r—(CH2—CH(R7)—O)x—R8 (IIIc)
The cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked and may also be block polymers.
Preferably, the counterion Z− of the monomers of formula (Ic) is chosen from halide ions, phosphate ions, the methosulfate ion and the tosylate ion.
Preferably, R3, R4 and R5 denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl radical.
More preferentially, the monomer b) is a monomer of formula (Ic) for which, preferentially, m and n are equal to 0.
The vinyllactam or alkylvinyllactam monomer is preferably a compound of structure (IVc):
Even more preferentially, the monomer (IVc) is vinylpyrrolidone.
The cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention may also contain one or more additional monomers, preferably cationic or non-ionic monomers.
As compounds that are particularly preferred, mention may be made of the following terpolymers comprising at least:
Even more preferentially, terpolymers comprising, by weight, 40% to 95% of monomer (a), 0.1% to 55% of monomer (c) and 0.25% to 50% of monomer (b) will be used. Such polymers are notably described in patent application WO-00/68282.
As cationic polymer(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention, the following are notably used:
The vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide/lauryldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium chloride terpolymer is notably sold by ISP under the names Styleze W10® and Styleze W20L® (INCI name: Polyquaternium-55).
The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers is preferably between 500 and 20 000 000, more particularly between 200 000 and 2 000 000 and preferentially between 400 000 and 800 000.
Among these copolymers, mention may be made more particularly of the products of polymerization of a monomer mixture comprising:
Such a polymer is, for example, the compound sold by Lubrizol under the name Carbopol Aqua CC® and which corresponds to the INCI name Polyacrylate-1 Crosspolymer.
Preferably, when they are present in the cosmetic composition A, the dyeing composition B and/or the oxidizing composition C used in the process according to the invention, the cationic polymer(s) are chosen from non-associative cationic polymers and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from cationic polysaccharides, alkyldiallylamine cyclopolymers or dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers and mixtures thereof, and even better still from guar gums, dimethyldiallylammonium salt homopolymers, copolymers of salts of diallyldimethylammonium and of acrylamide, and mixtures thereof.
When they are present in the cosmetic composition A, the dyeing composition B and/or the optional oxidizing composition C, the total content of the cationic polymer(s) preferably ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition comprising them.
The cosmetic composition A, the dyeing composition B and the optional oxidizing composition C used in the process according to the invention may optionally also comprise one or more non-ionic surfactants.
Examples of non-ionic surfactants which can be used in the compositions of the present invention are described, for example, in the Handbook of Surfactants by M. R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pages 116-178. They are chosen in particular from alcohols, α-diols, (C1-C20)alkylphenols or acids which are fatty, these compounds being polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, it being possible for the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups to range in particular from 1 to 100 and it being possible for the number of glycerol groups to range in particular from 1 to 30.
Mention may be made, as examples of non-ionic surfactants which can be used according to the present invention, of the following non-ionic surfactants:
The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, preferably oxyethylene units.
The number of moles of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide preferably ranges from 1 to 250, more particularly from 2 to 100 and better still from 2 to 70; the number of moles of glycerol ranges in particular from 1 to 50 and better still from 1 to 10.
Advantageously, the non-ionic surfactants according to the invention do not comprise oxypropylene units.
Use is preferably made, as examples of glycerolated non-ionic surfactants, of mono- or polyglycerolated C8 to C40 alcohols, comprising from 1 to 50 mol of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 10 mol of glycerol.
Among the glycerolated alcohols, it is more particularly preferred to use the C8/C10 alcohol having 1 mol of glycerol, the C10/C12 alcohol having 1 mol of glycerol and the C12 alcohol having 1.5 mol of glycerol.
Preference is particularly given, among esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8 to C30 acids and of sorbitol, to esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8 to C30 fatty acids and of sorbitan, comprising from 1 to 20 oxyethylene units, and more preferentially to esters of C8 to C18 fatty acid and of sorbitan, comprising from 4 to 20 oxyethylene units, better still esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear, C8 to C18 fatty acids and of sorbitan, comprising from 4 to 20 oxyethylene units.
Such compounds are known in particular under the name of polysorbates. They are, inter alia, sold under the name Tween by Unigema. Mention may, for example, be made of polyoxyethylene (4) sorbitan monolaurate (polysorbate 21), sold under the name Tween 21, polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monolaurate (polysorbate 20), sold under the name Tween 20, polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monopalmitate (polysorbate 40), sold under the name Tween 40, polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monostearate (polysorbate 60), sold under the name Tween 60, polyoxyethylene (4) sorbitan monostearate (polysorbate 61), sold under the name Tween 61, polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan tristearate (polysorbate 65), sold under the name Tween 65, polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monooleate (polysorbate 80), sold under the name Tween 80, polyoxyethylene (5) sorbitan monooleate (polysorbate 81), sold under the name Tween 81, and polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan trioleate (polysorbate 85), sold under the name Tween 85.
The non-ionic surfactant(s) which can be used in the present invention are preferentially chosen from:
When they are present in the cosmetic composition A, the dyeing composition B and/or the optional oxidizing composition C used in the process according to the invention, the total content of the non-ionic surfactant(s) preferably ranges from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition comprising them.
When they are present in the extemporaneous mixture applied in the process according to the invention, the total content of the non-ionic surfactant(s) ranges, preferably, from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the mixture.
The cosmetic composition A, the dyeing composition B and/or the optional oxidizing composition C used in the process according to the invention may optionally also comprise one or more anionic surfactants.
The term “anionic surfactant” is understood to mean a surfactant including, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the following groups: CO2H, CO2−, SO3H, SO3−, OSO3H, OSO3−, H2PO3, HPO3−, PO32−, H2PO2, HPO2−, PO22−, POH and PO−.
Preferably, when they are present, the anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from sulfate-type anionic surfactants.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “anionic surfactant of sulfate type” is intended to mean an anionic surfactant comprising one or more sulfate functions (—OSO3H or —OSO3−).
Such surfactants may advantageously be chosen from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; and salts thereof and mixtures thereof; the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising in particular from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 26, and more preferentially from 10 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; it being possible for these compounds to be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, and more preferentially from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
Preferably, the sulfate-type anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from:
When the anionic surfactant(s) of sulfate type are in salt form, said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt, and mixtures thereof.
Examples of amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
Preferably, the sulfate-type anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from (C10-C22) alkyl sulfates, more preferentially from sodium, triethanolamine, magnesium or ammonium (C10-C22) alkyl sulfates, sodium, ammonium or magnesium (C10-C22) alkyl ether sulfates, and mixtures thereof.
Even better still, the sulfate-type anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from (C10-C22) alkyl sulfates having the INCI name sodium lauryl sulfate, such as the compound sold under the name Texapon Z95P by BASF, or having the INCI name sodium cetearyl sulfate, such as the product sold under the name Lanette E by BASF.
Advantageously, when they are present in the composition according to the invention, the anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from sulfate-type anionic surfactants, preferably from (C10-C22) alkyl sulfates, preferentially sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium cetearyl sulfate, and mixtures thereof, better still sodium cetearyl sulfate.
Preferably, when they are present in the cosmetic composition A, the dyeing composition B and/or the optional oxidizing composition C, the total content of the anionic surfactant(s) ranges from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.8% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition comprising them.
In one particular embodiment, the total content of sulfate-type anionic surfactants, present in the cosmetic composition A, the dyeing composition B and/or the optional oxidizing composition C, preferably ranges from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.8% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition comprising them.
The cosmetic composition A, the dyeing composition B and/or the optional oxidizing composition C used in the process according to the invention may optionally also comprise one or more non-associative anionic acrylic polymers.
Among the non-associative anionic acrylic polymers that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of crosslinked acrylic acid or methacrylic acid homopolymers or copolymers, crosslinked 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers and crosslinked acrylamide copolymers thereof, ammonium acrylate homopolymers, or copolymers of ammonium acrylate and of acrylamide, alone or as mixtures.
A first family of non-associative anionic acrylic polymers that is suitable for use is represented by crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid homopolymers, in particular crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers.
Among the homopolymers of this type, mention may be made of those crosslinked with an allyl alcohol ether of the sugar series, for instance the products sold under the names Carbopol 980, 981, 954, 2984 and 5984 by Noveon or the products sold under the names Synthalen M and Synthalen K by 3 VSA. These polymers have the INCI name Carbomer.
The non-associative anionic acrylic polymers may also be crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid copolymers, such as the polymers sold under the names Carbopol Aqua SF1 and Carbopol Aqua SF2 by Noveon.
The non-associative anionic acrylic polymers may be chosen from crosslinked 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers and the crosslinked acrylamide copolymers thereof.
Among the partially or totally neutralized crosslinked copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and of acrylamide, mention may be made in particular of the product described in Example 1 of EP 503 853, and reference may be made to said document as regards these polymers.
The composition may similarly comprise, as non-associative anionic acrylic polymers, ammonium acrylate homopolymers or copolymers of ammonium acrylate and of acrylamide.
As examples of ammonium acrylate homopolymers, mention may be made of the product sold under the name Microsap PAS 5193 by Hoechst. Among the copolymers of ammonium acrylate and of acrylamide, mention may be made of the product sold under the name Bozepol C Nouveau or the product PAS 5193 sold by Hoechst. Reference may notably be made to FR 2 416 723, U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,798,053 and 2,923,692 as regards the description and preparation of such compounds.
When they are present, the non-associative anionic acrylic polymer(s) are preferably chosen from crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid homopolymers or copolymers, more preferentially from crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid homopolymers.
When they are present in the cosmetic composition A, the dyeing composition B and/or the optional oxidizing composition C, the total content of the non-associative anionic acrylic polymer(s) preferably ranges from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition comprising them.
The cosmetic composition A, the dyeing composition B and/or the optional oxidizing composition C can also comprise at least one organic solvent, other than propane-1,3-diol described above.
Examples of organic solvents that may be mentioned include linear or branched C2-C4 alkanols, such as ethanol, propanol and isopropanol; polyols other than propane-1,3-diol and polyol ethers, for instance 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether and monoethyl ether, and also aromatic alcohols or ethers, for instance benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the organic solvent(s) is/are chosen from polyols; more preferentially, the organic solvent is glycerol.
When they are present in the cosmetic composition A, the dyeing composition B and/or the optional oxidizing composition C used in the process of the invention, the total content of the organic solvent(s), other than propane-1,3-diol advantageously ranges from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably ranging from 2% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition comprising them.
In addition, the cosmetic composition A, the dyeing composition B and/or the optional oxidizing composition C are preferably aqueous compositions. Preferably, the cosmetic composition A, the dyeing composition B and/or the optional oxidizing composition C comprise water in an amount of greater than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably of greater than or equal to 10% by weight, better still of greater than or equal to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition which comprises it.
Preferably, the water content ranges from 15% to 95% by weight, preferentially from 30% to 92% by weight and better still from 40% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition which comprises said water.
The cosmetic composition A, the dyeing composition B and/or the optional oxidizing composition C, used in the process according to the invention, can also optionally comprise one or more additional compounds different from the compounds defined above, preferably chosen from cationic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, reducing agents, emollients, anti-foams, moisturising agents, UV-screening agents, peptizers, solubilizers, fragrances, anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric polymers or mixtures thereof, antidandruff agents, antiseborrhoeic agents, vitamins and pro-vitamins, including panthenol, sunscreens, plasticizers, solubilizing agents other than the solvents of the invention, acidifying agents, mineral or organic thickeners, in particular polymeric thickeners, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, preserving agents, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, when the additional compound(s) above are present in the cosmetic composition A, the dyeing composition B and/or the optional oxidizing composition C, the additional compound(s) are generally present in a content of, for each of them, between 0.01% and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition comprising them.
Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds in a way such that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the cosmetic composition of the invention are not, or not substantially, detrimentally affected by the envisaged addition(s).
The present invention relates to a process for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibres of an extemporaneous mixture (that is to say a mixture prepared at the time of use):
In other words, the process of the invention comprises a first step of mixing the compositions A and B and optionally oxidizing composition C, directly followed by the application of the resulting mixture to the keratin fibres.
When said oxidizing agent(s) are present in the dyeing composition B, then said dyeing composition B preferably itself results from the mixing of a composition comprising one or more alkaline agents and one or more dyes and of an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents. In other words, according to this embodiment, the process of the invention comprises a prior step of preparing the composition B, before the step of mixing the compositions A and B.
According to a first embodiment, the dye(s) included in the compositions A and B of the process are chosen from direct dyes and mixtures thereof. According to this embodiment, the process of the invention comprises the application to said keratin fibres of an extemporaneous mixture:
According to a second embodiment, the dye(s) included in the compositions A and B of the process are chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes and mixtures thereof, preferably oxidation dyes and mixtures thereof, and the chemical oxidizing agent(s) are included in the composition B. According to this embodiment, the composition B is preferably prepared beforehand by mixing at least two compositions before it is mixed with the composition A.
According to a first variant of this embodiment, the process of the invention comprises the application to said keratin fibres of an extemporaneous mixture:
According to a second variant of this embodiment, the process of the invention comprises the application to said keratin fibres of an extemporaneous mixture:
According to yet a third variant of this particular embodiment, the process of the invention comprises the application to said keratin fibres of an extemporaneous mixture:
According to yet a fourth variant of this particular embodiment, the process of the invention comprises the application to said keratin fibres of an extemporaneous mixture:
In other words, according to these four variants of this second embodiment, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) are included in the dyeing composition B which results from the mixing of a composition B′ comprising one or more alkaline agents and one or more dyes and of an oxidizing composition C comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents.
In this embodiment, the weight ratio between the composition A and the composition B (that is to say of the mixture of the composition B′ and the oxidizing composition), in the extemporaneous mixture applied in the process of the invention, preferably ranges from 0.01 to 10, more preferentially from 0.05 to 5, better still from 0.075 to 1.
According to yet a fifth variant of this particular embodiment, the process of the invention comprises the application to said keratin fibres of an extemporaneous mixture:
According to yet a third embodiment, the dye(s) included in the compositions A and B of the process are chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes and mixtures thereof, preferably oxidation dyes and mixtures thereof, and the chemical oxidizing agent(s) are included in an oxidizing composition C, other than the compositions A and B.
According to a first variant of this other embodiment, the process of the invention comprises the application to said keratin fibres of an extemporaneous mixture:
According to a second variant of this other particular embodiment, the process of the invention comprises the application to said keratin fibres of an extemporaneous mixture:
According to yet a third variant of this other particular embodiment, the process of the invention comprises the application to said keratin fibres of an extemporaneous mixture:
According to a fourth variant of this other particular embodiment, the process of the invention comprises the application to said keratin fibres of an extemporaneous mixture:
In other words, according to this other embodiment, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) are included in an oxidizing composition C other than the compositions A and B. Thus, the extemporaneous mixture applied in the process according to this embodiment also comprises at least one composition C comprising one or more oxidizing agents.
In this embodiment, the weight ratio between, on the one hand, the composition A and the composition B and, on the other hand, between the composition B and the composition C in the extemporaneous mixture applied in the process of the invention, preferably ranges, respectively, from 0.01 to 5 and from 0.1 to 2, preferentially from 0.1 to 2 and from 0.3 to 2, better still from 0.2 to 1 and from 0.5 to 1.
Advantageously, the composition A is a booster composition, the composition B is a dyeing composition, optionally comprising an oxidizing agent, and the composition C is an oxidizing composition. The term “booster” composition is intended to mean that the composition A, comprising propane-1,3-diol, makes it possible in particular to improve the dyeing performance of the dyeing composition B.
The extemporaneous mixture of the process according to the invention can be applied to wet or dry keratin fibres, and also to all types of fair or dark, natural or dyed, permanent-waved, bleached or relaxed, fibres.
According to one particular embodiment of the process of the invention, the fibres are washed before applying the extemporaneous mixture described above.
The application of the extemporaneous mixture to the keratin fibres may be performed by any conventional means, in particular using a comb, a fine brush, a coarse brush or with the fingers.
The bath ratio of the extemporaneous mixture applied to the keratin fibres preferably ranges from 0.1 to 10 and more preferentially from 0.2 to 5. For the purposes of the present invention, the term “bath ratio” is intended to mean the ratio between the total weight of the applied extemporaneous mixture and the total weight of keratin fibres to be treated.
The dyeing process, i.e. the mixing of the compositions A, B and optionally C, followed by the application of the resulting mixture to the keratin fibres, is generally performed at ambient temperature (between 15 and 25° C.).
The extemporaneous mixture may be applied to the keratin fibres for a leave-on time ranging from 30 to 60 minutes.
On conclusion of the process, the keratin fibres can be optionally subjected to washing with a shampoo and/or can be rinsed with water, before being dried or left to dry.
The invention also relates to a multi-compartment device comprising a first compartment containing the composition A according to the invention as described above, and a second compartment containing a composition B according to the invention as described above, and optionally a third compartment containing one or more chemical oxidizing agents as described above, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
According to a first embodiment, the multi-compartment device of the invention comprises a first compartment containing the composition A according to the invention as described above, and a second compartment containing a composition B according to the invention as described above.
According to another particular embodiment, the multi-compartment device of the invention comprises a first compartment containing the composition A according to the invention as described above, a second compartment containing a composition B according to the invention, and a third compartment containing a composition C comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents as described above, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.
In the examples which follow, all the amounts are shown as percentage by weight of active material (AM) relative to the total weight of the composition (unless otherwise mentioned).
The composition A (according to the invention) and the composition A′ (comparative) were prepared from the ingredients of which the contents are shown in the table below (% am):
The composition B was prepared from the ingredients of which the contents are shown in the table below (% am):
An oxidizing composition C was prepared from the ingredients of which the contents are shown in the table below (% am):
At the time of use, each of the dyeing compositions A and A′ is mixed with the dyeing composition B and the oxidizing composition C, in a 1/4/6 ratio. Each of the mixtures is then applied to a lock of natural hair containing 90% white hairs, in a proportion of 10 g of mixture per gram of hair.
After a leave-on time of 35 minutes on a plate thermostatically controlled at 27° C., the hair is rinsed, washed with a standard shampoo and dried.
Colorimetric measurements were taken using a Konica Minolta CM-3600A spectrocolorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included) in the CIELab system.
The strength of the colourings is measured.
L* represents the lightness; the lower the value of L*, the more powerful the colouration obtained.
The results are shown in the table below:
The booster composition A according to the invention (comprising propane-1,3-diol) results in a value L* that is lower compared to the composition A′ (comprising glycerol). The composition A thus makes it possible to obtain a stronger colouring than the comparative composition A′.
The composition A1 (according to the invention) and the composition A1′ (comparative) were prepared from the ingredients of which the contents are shown in the table below (% am):
The dyeing composition B and the oxidizing composition C were prepared as in Example 1 above.
At the time of use, each of the dyeing compositions A1 and A1′ is mixed with the dyeing composition B and the oxidizing composition C, in a 1/4/6 ratio. Each of mixture is then applied to a lock of natural hair containing 90% white hairs (WN) and to a lock of permanent-waved hair (PW), in a proportion of 10 g of mixture per gram of hair.
After a leave-on time of 35 minutes on a plate thermostatically controlled at 27° C., the hair is rinsed, washed with a standard shampoo and dried.
Colorimetric measurements were taken using a Konica Minolta CM-3600A spectrocolorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included) in the CIELab system.
The strength of the colourings is measured: L* represents the lightness; the lower the value of L*, the more powerful the colouration obtained.
Selectivity is represented by the color difference AE between the lock of colored natural hair (WN) and the lock of colored permanent-waived hair (PW). The lower the value of AE, the lower the selectivity, and therefore the better.
The results are shown in the table below:
The mixture (A1+B+C) according to the invention leads to lower values of L*, thus to a more powerful coloration compared to the mixture (A1′+B+C) (according to the prior art).
The mixture (A1+B+C) according to the invention has a lower AE value than the mixture (A1′+B+C) according to the prior art. The mixture (A1+B+C) according to the invention leads to a lower selectivity, thus better than that of the mixture (A1′+B+C) according to the prior art.
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2114263 | Dec 2021 | FR | national |
| Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/EP2022/087290 | 12/21/2022 | WO |
