Patent Application
20240082121
The present invention relates to a process for lightening keratin fibres, comprising the application to the keratin fibres of at least one chemical oxidizing agent, at least one carbonate, at least one bicarbonate and at least one silicate.
When a person wishes to change hair colour, notably when he or she wishes to obtain a lighter colour than their original colour, it is often necessary to perform preliminary lightening or bleaching of the hair. To do this, use is made of lightening or bleaching products.
The lightening of the hair is evaluated by the tone depth, which characterizes the degree or level of lightening. The notion of “tone” is based on the classification of natural shades, one tone separating each shade from that which immediately follows or precedes it. This definition and the classification of natural shades is well known to hair styling professionals and is published in the book Sciences des traitements capillaires by Charles ZVIAK, 1988, published by Masson, pages 215 and 278.
The tone depths range from 1 (black) to 10 (very light blonde), one unit corresponding to one tone; the larger the figure, the lighter the shade.
It is known practice to lighten or bleach the hair with lightening or bleaching compositions containing at least one chemical oxidizing agent, under alkaline pH conditions in the vast majority of cases. The role of this oxidizing agent is to degrade the melanin of the hair, which, depending on the nature of the oxidizing agent present and on the pH conditions, leads to more or less pronounced lightening of the fibres. Thus, for relatively weak lightening, the oxidizing agent is generally hydrogen peroxide. When greater lightening is required, notably when the treated hair is dark, use is usually made of persulfates in the presence of hydrogen peroxide. However, the lightening obtained by the action of such a combination is not always satisfactory since the hair obtained has sparingly aesthetic orange-yellow shades that are far from natural shades, which complicates the subsequent dyeing by limiting it to the production of warm tones. Furthermore, persulfate-based lightening compositions may result in degradation of the quality of the fibre.
Thus, there is a real need to develop a process for obtaining efficient lightening of keratin fibres, notably of dark keratin fibres, with a less yellow and more natural rendition. Such a process will also need to be more respectful of the quality of the fibres, notably by limiting their degradation.
The Applicant has discovered, surprisingly, that all of these objectives can be achieved by means of the process according to the present invention.
According to a first aspect, a subject of the present invention is a process for lightening keratin fibres comprising the application to the keratin fibres of a composition comprising:
According to a second aspect, a subject of the present invention is the use of a composition as defined previously for lightening keratin fibres, preferably for lightening keratin fibres while at the same time de-yellowing them.
According to a third aspect, a subject of the present invention is a multi-compartment device (kit) comprising:
For the purposes of the present invention and unless otherwise indicated:
Unless otherwise indicated, when compounds are mentioned in the present patent application, this also includes the optical isomers thereof, the geometrical isomers thereof, the tautomers thereof, the salts thereof or the solvates thereof such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof.
The terms “at least one” and “one or more” are synonymous and may be used interchangeably.
The terms “lightening” and “bleaching” are synonymous and may be used interchangeably.
According to a first aspect, a subject of the present invention is a process for lightening keratin fibres as defined previously.
The Applicant has found, surprisingly, that the process according to the present invention makes it possible to obtain efficient lightening of keratin fibres with a less yellow and more natural rendition. When the colour of the keratin fibres treated by means of the process according to the invention is compared with the colour of keratin fibres treated by means of lightening processes known in the prior art, it is observed that the b* values measured in the CIE L*a*b* system are lower for the composition used in the process according to the invention than for the known lightening compositions of the prior art for an equivalent level of intensity L*.
Moreover, the process according to the invention is more respectful of the quality of the fibres, notably minimizing their degradation.
According to a preferred embodiment, the process according to the invention comprises the application to the keratin fibres of a composition comprising:
The composition comprises i) one or more chemical oxidizing agents chosen from hydrogen peroxide, hydrogen peroxide-generating systems other than peroxygenated salts and mixtures thereof.
The hydrogen peroxide-generating systems other than peroxygenated salts may be chosen from urea peroxide, polymeric complexes that can release hydrogen peroxide, oxidases, and mixtures thereof.
As examples of polymeric complexes that can release hydrogen peroxide, mention may be made of polyvinylpyrrolidone/H2O2 in particular in powder form, and the other polymeric complexes described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,008,093, 3,376,110 and 5,183,901.
Oxidases can produce hydrogen peroxide in the presence of a suitable substrate, for instance glucose in the case of glucose oxidase or uric acid with uricase.
According to a particular embodiment, hydrogen peroxide and/or the hydrogen peroxide-generating system(s) other than peroxygenated salts may be added to the composition just before it is applied to the keratin fibres. The intermediate composition(s) comprising hydrogen peroxide and/or hydrogen peroxide-generating system(s) other than peroxygenated salts may be referred to as oxidizing compositions and may also include various additional compounds or various adjuvants conventionally used in compositions for lightening keratin fibres.
According to a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises hydrogen peroxide as chemical oxidizing agent.
The chemical oxidizing agent(s) are preferably present in a total content ranging from 1% to 12% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 3% to 9% by weight and even more preferentially ranging from 3.5% to 8.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrogen peroxide is present in a total content ranging from 1% to 12% by weight, preferably ranging from 3% to 9% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 3.5% to 8.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Carbonates and/or Carbonate-Generating Systems
The composition also comprises ii) one or more carbonates and/or one or more carbonate-generating systems, preferably ii) one or more carbonates.
The term “carbonate-generating system” means a system which generates carbonate in situ, for instance carbon dioxide in water or percarbonate in water.
Preferably, the carbonate(s) are chosen from:
More preferentially, the carbonate(s) are chosen from sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, caesium carbonate, lithium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, barium carbonate, strontium carbonate, cerium carbonate, lanthanum carbonate, yttrium carbonate, copper(II) carbonate, manganese carbonate, nickel carbonate, silver carbonate, zirconium carbonate, bismuth carbonate, cadmium carbonate, thallium carbonate, zinc carbonate, ammonium carbonate, guanidine carbonate, tetraethylammonium carbonate and mixtures thereof.
Even more preferentially, the carbonate(s) are chosen from sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, caesium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, cerium carbonate, manganese carbonate, zinc carbonate, ammonium carbonate, guanidine carbonate and mixtures thereof.
Most preferentially, the carbonate(s) are chosen from sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, ammonium carbonate and mixtures thereof.
According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the carbonate included in the composition is ammonium carbonate.
The carbonate(s) and/or the carbonate-generating system(s) are preferably present in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to a preferred embodiment, the carbonate(s) are present in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Bicarbonates and/or Bicarbonate-Generating Systems
The composition also comprises iii) one or more bicarbonates and/or one or more bicarbonate-generating systems, preferably iii) one or more bicarbonates.
The term “bicarbonate-generating system” means a system which generates bicarbonate in situ, for instance carbon dioxide in water or by buffering a carbonate with a mineral or organic acid.
Preferably, the bicarbonate(s) are chosen from:
More preferentially, the bicarbonate(s) are chosen from sodium bicarbonate, potassium bicarbonate, lithium bicarbonate, caesium bicarbonate, calcium bicarbonate, magnesium bicarbonate, ammonium bicarbonate, choline bicarbonate, triethylammonium bicarbonate, aminoguanidine bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof.
Even more preferentially, the bicarbonate(s) are chosen from sodium bicarbonate, potassium bicarbonate, caesium bicarbonate, calcium bicarbonate, magnesium bicarbonate, ammonium bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof.
Most preferentially, the bicarbonate(s) are chosen from sodium bicarbonate, potassium bicarbonate, ammonium bicarbonate and mixtures thereof.
According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the bicarbonate included in the composition is ammonium bicarbonate.
The bicarbonates may originate from a natural water, for example spring water from the Vichy basin or from La Roche Posay or Badoit water.
The bicarbonate(s) and/or the bicarbonate-generating system(s) are preferably present in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 1% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 2% to 15% by weight, most preferentially ranging from 4% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to a preferred embodiment, the bicarbonate(s) are present in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably ranging from 1% to 15% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 2% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 4% to 15% by weight, relative the total weight of the composition.
According to a preferred embodiment, the compounds ii) and iii) are preferably present in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably ranging from 1% to 15% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 2% to 15% by weight and even more preferentially ranging from 4% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition also comprises iv) one or more silicates.
The silicate(s) are preferably water-soluble.
The term “water-soluble silicate” means a silicate which has a solubility in water at ordinary room temperature (25° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) of greater than 0.5% by weight, preferably greater than 1% by weight.
Preferably, the silicate(s) are chosen from alkali metal silicates, alkaline-earth metal silicates, aluminium silicates, trimethylammonium silicates and mixtures thereof. More preferentially, the silicate(s) are chosen from sodium silicates, potassium silicates, calcium silicates, aluminium silicates, trimethylammonium silicates and mixtures thereof.
Even more preferentially, the silicate(s) are chosen from sodium silicates. Examples of sodium silicates that may be mentioned include the compounds having the CAS numbers: [1344-09-8] and [6834-92-0].
The silicate(s) are present in a total content ranging from 2% to 35% by weight, preferably ranging from 3% to 35% by weight and more preferentially ranging from 4% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The weight ratio of the total amount of carbonate(s) and/or carbonate-generating system(s)/total amount of silicate(s) is preferably from 0.00025 to 20, more preferentially from 0.028 to 10 and even more preferentially from 0.028 to 3.4.
According to a preferred embodiment, the weight ratio of the total amount of carbonate(s)/total amount of silicate(s) is from 0.00025 to 20, preferably from 0.028 to 10, more preferentially from 0.028 to 3.4.
The weight ratio of the total amount of carbonate(s) and/or carbonate-generating system(s)/total amount of chemical oxidizing agent(s) is preferably from 0.0008 to 20, more preferentially from 0.1 to 6.6 and even more preferentially from 0.1 to 2.9.
According to a preferred embodiment, the weight ratio of the total amount of carbonate(s)/total amount of chemical oxidizing agent(s) is from 0.0008 to 20, preferably from 0.1 to 6.6 and more preferentially from 0.1 to 2.9.
According to a preferred embodiment, the weight ratio of the total amount of carbonate(s)/total amount of hydrogen peroxide is from 0.0008 to 20, preferably from 0.1 to 6.6 and more preferentially from 0.1 to 2.9.
The weight ratio of the total amount of carbonate(s) and/or carbonate-generating system(s)/total amount of bicarbonate(s) and/or bicarbonate-generating system(s) is preferably from 0.0005 to 2000, more preferentially from 0.06 to 20 and even more preferentially from 0.06 to 5.
According to a preferred embodiment, the weight ratio of the total amount of carbonate(s)/total amount of bicarbonate(s) is from 0.0005 to 2000, preferably from 0.06 to 20 and more preferentially from 0.06 to 5.
The composition preferably comprises a total content of magnesium carbonate of less than 5% by weight, more preferentially of less than 1% by weight, even more preferentially of less than 0.1% by weight, most preferentially of less than 0.01% by weight and better still of less than 0.001% by weight.
According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition is free of magnesium carbonate.
The composition preferably comprises a total content of persulfates of less than 10% by weight, more preferentially less than 5% by weight, even more preferentially less than 1% by weight, most preferentially less than 0.1% by weight, better still less than 0.01% by weight, and even better still less than 0.001% by weight.
According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition is free of persulfates.
The composition may comprise one or more colouring agents chosen from direct dyes, oxidation dyes and mixtures thereof.
When they are present, the colouring agent(s) are preferably present in a total content ranging from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 4% by weight and more preferentially from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The oxidation dyes are generally chosen from one or more oxidation bases optionally combined with one or more coupling agents (also known as couplers).
Oxidation Bases
The composition may optionally comprise one or more oxidation bases advantageously chosen from those conventionally used in the dyeing of keratin fibres.
By way of example, the oxidation bases are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols ortho-aminophenols and heterocyclic bases, and the corresponding addition salts.
Among the para-phenylenediamines that may be mentioned are, for example, para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-chloroaniline, 2-β-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-(β-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-ethyl-N-(β-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(β,γ-dihydroxypropylypara-phenylenediamine, N-(4′-aminophenyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, N-(β-methoxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-aminotoluene and 3-hydroxy-1-(4′-aminophenyl)pyrrolidine, and the corresponding addition salts with an acid.
Among the para-phenylenediamines mentioned above, para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine and 2-β-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, and the corresponding addition salts with an acid, are particularly preferred.
Among the bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines that may be mentioned, for example, are N,N′-bis((β-hydroxyethyl)-N,N′-bis(4′-aminophenyl)-1,3-diaminopropanol, N,N′-bis((β-hydroxyethyl)-N,N′-bis(4′-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N′-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N′-bis((β-hydroxyethyl)-N,N′-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N′-bis(4-methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N′-bis(ethyl)-N,N′-bis(4′-amino-3′-methylphenyl)ethylenediamine and 1,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,6-dioxaoctane, and the corresponding addition salts.
Among the para-aminophenols that are mentioned are, for example, para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethyl phenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-(β-hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2-fluorophenol, and the corresponding addition salts with an acid.
Among the ortho-aminophenols that may be mentioned, for example, are 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol, and the corresponding addition salts.
Among the heterocyclic bases that may be mentioned, for example, are pyridine, pyrimidine and pyrazole derivatives.
Among the pyridine derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described, for example, in patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, for example 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3-aminopyridine and 3,4-diaminopyridine, and the corresponding addition salts.
Other pyridine oxidation bases that are useful in the present invention are the 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases or the corresponding addition salts described, for example, in patent application FR 2 801 308. Examples that may be mentioned include pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-(morpholin-4-yl)pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-2-carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, (3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)methanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)ethanol, (3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-2-yl)methanol, 3,6-diaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine, 3,4-diaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine, pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-3,7-diamine, 7-(morpholin-4-yl)pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-3,5-diamine, 5-(morpholin-4-yl)pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-5-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-4-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-6-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1, 5-a]pyridin-7-ol, 2-β-hydroxyethoxy-3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine and 2-(4-dimethylpiperazinium-1-yl)-3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine, and the corresponding addition salts.
More particularly, the oxidation bases that are useful in the present invention are chosen from 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridines and are preferably substituted on carbon atom 2 with:
Among the pyrimidine derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described, for example, in patents DE 2359399; JP 88-169571; JP 05-63124; EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96/15765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and the addition salts thereof and the tautomeric forms thereof, when a tautomeric equilibrium exists.
Among the pyrazole derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described in patents DE 3843892 and DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94/08969, WO 94/08970, FR-A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988, for instance 4,5-diamino-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(4′-chlorobenzyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, 1-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-tert-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-(4′-methoxyphenyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-hydroxymethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4-amino-5-(2′-aminoethyl)amino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 1-methyl-3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-1-methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole and 3,5-diamino-4-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-1-methylpyrazole, and the corresponding addition salts. Use may also be made of 4,5-diamino-1-(β-methoxyethyl)pyrazole.
A 4,5-diaminopyrazole will preferably be used and even more preferentially 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and/or a corresponding salt.
The pyrazole derivatives that may also be mentioned comprise diamino-N,N-dihydropyrazolopyrazolones and in particular those described in patent application FR-A-2 886 136, such as the following compounds and the corresponding addition salts: 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-(pyrrolidin-1-yl)-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2-amino-3-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-dimethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-1H,6H-pyridazino[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 4-amino-1,2-diethyl-5-(pyrrolidin-1-yl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4-amino-5-(3-dimethylaminopyrrolidin-1-yl)-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one and 2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one.
Use will preferably be made of 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one and/or a corresponding salt.
Heterocyclic bases that will preferably be used are 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and/or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one and/or a corresponding salt.
The composition may optionally comprise one or more coupling agents advantageously chosen from those conventionally used in the dyeing of keratin fibres.
Among these coupling agents, mention may be made in particular of meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based coupling agents and heterocyclic coupling agents, and also the corresponding addition salts.
Mention may be made, for example, of 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2,4-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-4-(β-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diaminobenzene, 1,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline, 3-ureido-1-dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol, 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, α-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 1-N-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, 2,6-bis(β-hydroxyethylamino)toluene, 6-hydroxyindoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 1-H-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo[1,5-b]-1,2,4-triazole, 2,6-dimethyl[3,2-c]-1,2,4-triazole and 6-methylpyrazolo[1,5-a]benzimidazole, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 5-N-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol, 3-aminophenol and 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, the corresponding addition salts with an acid and the corresponding mixtures.
In general, the addition salts of oxidation bases and coupling agents that may be used in the context of the invention are chosen in particular from the addition salts with an acid such as the hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates.
The oxidation base(s) each advantageously represent 0.001% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The coupling agent(s), if they are present, each advantageously represent 0.001% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and preferably 0.005% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition may also comprise one or more direct dyes.
The direct dyes may be neutral, cationic or anionic direct dyes, preferably neutral or cationic direct dyes.
The direct dyes may be neutral, cationic or anionic direct dyes chosen from: acridines; acridones; anthranthrones; anthrapyrimidines; anthraquinones; azines; (poly)azos or azos, hydrazono or hydrazones, in particular arylhydrazones; azomethines; benzanthrones; benzimidazoles; benzimidazolones; benzindoles; benzoxazoles; benzopyrans; benzothiazoles; benzoquinones; bis-isoindolines; carboxanilides; coumarins; cyanines, such as (di)azacarbocyanines, (di)azahemicyanines, hemicyanines or tetraazacarbocyanines; (di)azines; bis-azines; (di)oxazines; (di)thiazines; (di)phenylamines; (di)phenylmethanes; (di)ketopyrrolopyrroles; flavonoids, such as flavanthrones and flavones; fluorindines; formazans; indamines; indanthrones; indigoids, thioindigoids and pseudoindigoids; indophenols; indoanilines; isoindolines; isoindolinones; isoviolanthrones; lactones; (poly)methines, such as dimethines of stilbene or styryl types; naphthalimides; naphthanilides; naphtholactams; naphthoquinones; nitro, notably nitro(hetero)aromatics; oxadiazoles; oxazines; perilones; perinones; perylenes; phenazines; phenoxazines; phenothiazines; phthalocyanines; polyenes/carotenoids; porphyrins; pyranthrones; pyrazolanthrones; pyrazolones; pyrimidinoanthrones; pyronines; quinacridones; quinolines; quinophthalones; squaranes; tetrazolines; thiazines; thiopyronines; triarylmethanes or xanthenes and natural direct dyes. Preferably, the direct dyes are chosen from anthraquinones, (poly)azos, azomethines and stilbenes, more preferentially from anthraquinones.
The direct dyes may be chosen in particular from neutral, cationic or anionic nitrobenzene direct dyes, neutral, cationic or anionic azo direct dyes, neutral, cationic or anionic tetraazapentamethine dyes, cationic or anionic quinone dyes and in particular neutral, cationic or anionic anthraquinone dyes, neutral, cationic or anionic azine direct dyes, neutral, cationic or anionic triarylmethane direct dyes, neutral, cationic or anionic azomethine direct dyes and natural direct dyes. Preferably, the direct dyes are chosen from neutral or anionic anthraquinone dyes and stilbenes.
As neutral, anionic or cationic direct dyes that may be used in the present invention, mention may be made of the following dyes: acridines; acridones; anthranthrones; anthrapyrimidines; anthraquinones; azines; (poly)azos, hydrazono or hydrazones, in particular arylhydrazones; azomethines; benzanthrones; benzimidazoles; benzimidazolones; benzindoles; benzoxazoles; benzopyrans; benzothiazoles; benzoquinones; bisazines; bis-isoindolines; carboxanilides; coumarins; cyanines, such as azacarbocyanines, diazacarbocyanines, diazahemicyanines, hemicyanines or tetraazacarbocyanines; diazines; diketopyrrolopyrroles; dioxazines; diphenylamines; diphenylmethanes; dithiazines; flavonoids, such as flavanthrones and flavones; fluorindines; formazans; indamines; indanthrones; indigoids and pseudoindigoids; indophenols; indoanilines; isoindolines; isoindolinones; isoviolanthrones; lactones; (poly)methines, such as dimethines of stilbene or styryl types; naphthalimides; naphthanilides; naphtholactams; naphthoquinones; nitro, notably nitro(hetero)aromatics; oxadiazoles; oxazines; perilones; perinones; perylenes; phenazines; phenoxazine; phenothiazines; phthalocyanine; polyenes/carotenoids; porphyrins; pyranthrones; pyrazolanthrones; pyrazolones; pyrimidinoanthrones; pyronines; quinacridones; quinolines; quinophthalones; squaranes; tetrazoles; thiazines; thioindigo; thiopyronines; triarylmethanes or xanthenes.
The direct dyes may be neutral direct dyes, preferably chosen from the hydrazono dyes of formulae (IIIa) and (III′a), the azo and styryl dyes (IVa), the diazo and distyryl dyes (IV′a) and (IV″a), the anthraquinone dyes (Va) and the azomethine dyes (VIa) and (VI′a) below, and mixtures thereof:
in which formulae (IIIa), (III′a), (IVa), (IV′a), (IV″a), (Va), (VIa) and (VI′a):
The direct dyes of formula (IV″a) are preferably of formula (IV″′a)
in which formula (IV′″a):
The direct dyes of formula (IV″a) may be derived from curcumin, demethoxycurcumin and bis-demethoxycurcumin.
Preferably, the direct dyes are chosen from the direct dyes of formulae (IV″a) and (IV″′a) and mixtures thereof as defined previously.
According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the direct dyes are neutral direct dyes chosen from the following compounds (A) to (G) and mixtures thereof:
preferably from the compounds (E), (F) and (G) and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from the compounds (E) and (G) and mixtures thereof.
The direct dyes may be chosen from direct dyes which are cationic or commonly referred to as “basic dyes” for their affinity with acidic substances notably including in their structure at least one endocyclic or exocyclic cationic or cationizable group.
As cationic azo dyes that can be used in the present invention, mention may be made particularly of the cationic dyes described in Kirk-Othmer's encyclopaedia of Chemical Technology, “Dyes, Azo”, J. Wiley & Sons, updated on Apr. 19, 2010.
Mention may also be made of the cationic azo dyes described in patent applications WO 95/15144, WO 95/01772 and EP 714 954.
Mention may also be made of the cationic azo dyes described in the Colour Index International 3rd Edition, notably of the following compounds: Basic Red 22; Basic Red 76; Basic Yellow 57; Basic Brown 16; Basic Brown 17.
Among the cationic quinone dyes, those mentioned in the Colour Index International 3rd Edition, are suitable for use and, among these, mention may be made, inter alia, of the following dyes: Basic Blue 22; Basic Blue 99.
Among the azine dyes that are suitable for use, mention may be made of those listed in the Colour Index International 3rd Edition, for example the following dyes: Basic Blue 17, Basic Red 2.
Among the cationic triarylmethane dyes that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made, in addition to those listed in the Colour Index International 3rd Edition, of the following dyes: Basic Green 1, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 14, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26.
Mention may also be made of the direct dyes described in U.S. Pat. No. 5 888 252, EP 1 133 975, WO 03/029 359, EP 860 636, WO 95/01772, WO 95/15144 and EP 714 954.
Mention may also be made of those listed in the encyclopaedia “The Chemistry of Synthetic Dyes” by K. Venkataraman, 1952, Academic Press, volumes 1 to 7, in the “Kirk-Othmer Encyclopaedia of Chemical Technology”, in the chapter “Dyes and Dye Intermediates”, 1993, Wiley and Sons, and in various chapters of “Ullmann's Encyclopaedia of Industrial Chemistry”, 7th edition, Wiley and Sons.
Preferably, the cationic direct dyes are chosen from those resulting from dyes of azo and hydrazono type.
The cationic direct dyes may be cationic azo dyes, as described in EP 850 636, FR2 788 433, EP 920 856, WO 99/48465, FR2 757 385, EP 850 637, EP 918 053, WO 97/44004, FR2 570 946, FR2 285 851, DE 2 538 363, FR2 189 006, FR1 560 664, FR 1 540 423, FR1 567 219, FR1 516 943, FR1 221 122, DE 4 220 388, DE 4 137 005, WO 01/66646, U.S. Pat. No. 5,708,151, WO 95/01772, WO 515 144, GB 1 195 386, U.S. Pat. No. 3,524,842, U.S. Pat. No. 5,879,413, EP 1 062 940, EP 1 133 976, GB 738 585, DE 2 527 638, FR2 275 462, GB 1974-27645, Acta Histochem. (1978), 61(1), 48-52; Tsitologiya (1968), 10(3), 403-5; Zh. Obshch. Khim. (1970), 40(1), 195-202; Ann. Chim. (Rome) (1975), 65(5-6), 305-14; Journal of the Chinese Chemical Society (Taipei) (1998), 45(1), 209-211; Rev. Roum. Chim. (1988), 33(4), 377-83; Text. Res. J. (1984), 54(2), 105-7; Chim. Ind. (Milan) (1974), 56(9), 600-3; Khim. Tekhnol. (1979), 22(5), 548-53; Ger. Monatsh. Chem. (1975), 106(3), 643-8; MRL Bull. Res. Dev. (1992), 6(2), 21-7; Lihua Jianyan, Huaxue Fence (1993), 29(4), 233-4; Dyes Pigm. (1992), 19(1), 69-79; Dyes Pigm. (1989), 11(3), 163-72.
Preferably, the cationic direct dyes comprise a quaternary ammonium group; more preferentially, the cationic charge is endocyclic. These cationic groups are, for example, a cationic group:
Mention may be made of the cationic hydrazono direct dyes of formulae (IIb) and (IIIb) and the azo direct dyes of formulae (IVb) and (Vb) below:
Het+-C(Ra)═N—N(Rb)—Ar, Q (IIIb)−;
Het+-N(Ra)—N═C(Rb)—Ar, Q− (IIIb);
Het+-N═N—Ar, Q (IVb);
Ar+—N═N—Ar″, Q− (Vb);
in which formulae (IIIb) to (Vb):
In particular, mention may be made of the azo and hydrazono direct dyes bearing an endocyclic cationic charge of formulae (IIb) to (Vb) as defined previously. More particularly, mention may be made of the cationic direct dyes of formulae (IIb) to (Vb) bearing an endocyclic cationic charge described in patent applications WO 95/15144, WO 95/01772 and EP 714 954.
Preferably, mention may be made of the following direct dyes:
in which formulae (II-1) and (IV-1):
Particularly, the dyes of formulae (II-1) and (IV-1) are chosen from Basic Red 51, Basic Yellow 87 and Basic Orange 31 or derivatives thereof:
with Q− being an anionic counterion as defined previously, in particular a halide, such as chloride, or an alkyl sulfate, such as methyl sulfate or mesyl.
The direct dyes may be chosen from fluorescent direct dyes.
As examples of fluorescent dyes that may be used in the present invention, mention may be made of neutral, anionic or cationic dyes chosen from the following dyes: acridines, acridones, benzanthrones, benzimidazoles, benzimidazolones, benzindoles, benzoxazoles, benzopyrans, benzothiazoles, coumarins, difluoro{2-[(2H-pyrrol-2-ylidene-kN)methyl]-1H-pyrrolato-kN}borons (BODIPY®), diketopyrrolopyrroles, fluorindines, (poly)methines (notably cyanines and styryls/hemicyanines), naphthalimides, naphthanilides, naphthylamines (such as dansyls), oxadiazoles, oxazines, perilones, perinones, perylenes, polyenes/carotenoids, squaranes, stilbenes, xanthenes.
Mention may also be made of the fluorescent dyes described in EP 1 133 975, WO 03/029 359, EP 860 636, WO 95/01772, WO 95/15144 and EP 714 954 and those listed in the encyclopaedia “The Chemistry of Synthetic Dyes” by K. Venkataraman, 1952, Academic Press, volumes 1 to 7, in the “Kirk-Othmer Encyclopaedia of Chemical Technology”, in the chapter “Dyes and Dye Intermediates”, 1993, Wiley and Sons, and in various chapters of “Ullmann's Encyclopaedia of Industrial Chemistry”, 7th edition, Wiley and Sons, and in the handbook—“A Guide to Fluorescent Probes and Labeling Technologies”, 10th Ed., Molecular Probes/Invitrogen—Oregon 2005, circulated on the Internet or in the preceding printed editions.
According to a preferred variant, the fluorescent dye(s) are cationic polymethines and comprise at least one quaternary ammonium group, such as those of formula (Vb) below:
W+-[C(Rc)═C(Rd)]m—Ar, Q−
which formula (Vb):
The direct dyes may be chosen from anionic direct dyes or dyes commonly referred to as “acidic” direct dyes on account of their affinity with alkaline substances.
The term “anionic direct dye” means any direct dye including in its structure at least one CO2R or SO3R substituent with R denoting a hydrogen atom or a cation originating from a metal or an amine, or an ammonium ion. The anionic dyes may be chosen from direct nitro acid dyes, azo acid dyes, azine acid dyes, triarylmethane acid dyes, indoamine acid dyes, anthraquinone acid dyes, indigoid dyes and natural acid dyes. Preferably, the anionic direct dyes are acidic anthraquinones.
The direct dyes may be anionic direct dyes preferably chosen from the dyes of formulae (III), (111′), (IV), (IV′), (V), (V′), (VI), (VI′), (VII), (VIII), (IX) and (X) below, and mixtures thereof:
in which formulae (III) and (III′):
As examples of dyes of formula (III), mention may be made of: Acid Red 1, Acid Red 4, Acid Red 13, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 28, Acid Red 32, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Red 37, Acid Red 40, Acid Red 41, Acid Red 42, Acid Red 44, Pigment Red 57, Acid Red 68, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 135, Acid Red 138, Acid Red 184, Food Red 1, Food Red 13, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 19, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 24, Yellow 6, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Yellow 199, Food Yellow 3, Acid Violet 7, Acid Violet 14, Acid Blue 113, Acid Blue 117, Acid Black 1, Acid Brown 4, Acid Brown 20, Acid Black 26, Acid Black 52, Food Black 1, Food Black 2, Food Yellow 3 or Sunset Yellow; and as examples of dyes of formula (III′), mention may be made of: Acid Red 111, Acid Red 134, Acid Yellow 38;
in which formulae (IV) and (IV′):
As examples of dyes of formula (IV), mention may be made of: Acid Red 195, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 27, Acid Yellow 76, and as examples of dyes of formula (IV′), mention may be made of: Acid Yellow 17;
in which formulae (V) and (V′):
As examples of dyes of formula (V), mention may be made of: Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Acid Violet 43, Mordant Red 3; EXT Violet No. 2;
and as examples of dyes of formula (V′), mention may be made of: Acid Black 48.
in which formulae (VI) and (VI′):
As examples of dyes of formula (VI), mention may be made of: Acid Brown 13 and Acid Orange 3; as examples of dyes of formula (VI′), mention may be made of: Acid Yellow 1, the sodium salt of 2,4-dinitro-1-naphthol-7-sulfonic acid, 2-piperidino-5-nitrobenzenesulfonic acid, 2-(4′-N,N-(2″-hydroxyethyl)amino-2′-nitro)anilineethanesulfonic acid, 4-β-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzenesulfonic acid; EXT D&C Yellow 7.
As examples of dyes of formula (VII), mention may be made of: Acid Blue 1; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid Green 3; Acid Green 5 and Acid Green 50.
in which formula (VIII):
As examples of dyes of formula (VIII), mention may be made of: Acid Yellow 73; Acid Red 51; Acid Red 52; Acid Red 87; Acid Red 92; Acid Red 95; Acid Violet 9.
in which formula (IX):
As examples of dyes of formula (IX), mention may be made of: Acid Blue 74.
in which formula (X):
More particularly, the dyes of formulae (III) to (VIII) that are useful in the invention are chosen from: Acid Red 87 (VIII) (C.I. 45380); sodium salt of 2,4-dinitro-1-naphthol-7-sulfonic acid (VI′) (C.I. 10316); Acid Orange 3 (VI) (C.I. 10383); Acid Yellow 9/Food Yellow 2 (III) (C.I. 13015); Direct Red 45/Food Red 13 (III) (C.I. 14780); Acid Black 52 (III) (C.I. 13711); Acid Yellow 36 (III) (C.I. 13065); sodium salt of 1-hydroxy-2-(2′,4′-xylyl-5-sulfonatoazo)naphthalene-4-sulfonic acid/Food Red 1(III) (C.I. 14700); Acid Red 14/Food Red 3/Mordant Blue 79 (III) (C.I. 14720); sodium salt of 4-hydroxy-3-[(2-methoxy-5-nitrophenyl)diaza]-6-(phenylamino)naphthalene-2-sulfonic acid/Acid Brown 4 (III) (C. I. 14805); Acid Orange 7/Pigment Orange 17/Solvent Orange 49 (III) (C.I. 15510); Food Yellow 3/Pigment Yellow 104 (III) (CI 15985); Acid Red 27/Food Red 9 (III) (C.I. 16185); Acid Orange 10/Food Orange 4 (III) (C.I. 16230); Acid Red 44 (III) (C.I. 16250); Acid Red 33/Food Red 12 (III) (C.I. 17200); Acid Red 184 (III) (C.I. 15685); Acid Violet 3 (III) (C.I. 19125); sodium salt of 1-hydroxy-2-(4′-acetamidophenylazo)-8-acetamidonaphthalene-3,6-disulfonic acid/Acid Violet 7/Food Red 11 (III) (C.I. 18055); Acid Red 135 (III) (C.I. 18130); Acid Yellow 27 (IV) (C.I. 19130); Acid Yellow 23/Food Yellow 4 (IV) (C.I. 19140); 4′-(sulfonato-2″,4″-dimethyl)bis(2,6-phenylazo)-1,3-dihydroxybenzene/Acid Orange 24 (III) (C.I. 20170); sodium salt of 1-amino-2-(4′-nitrophenylazo)-7-phenylazo-8-hydroxynaphthalene-3,6-disulfonic acid/Acid Black 1 (III) (C.I. 20470); (4-((4-methylphenyl)sulfonyloxy)phenylazo)-2,2′-dimethyl-4-((2-hydroxy-5,8-disulfonato)naphthylazo)biphenyl/Acid Red 111 (III′) (C.I. 23266); Food Black 2 (III) (C.I. 27755); 1-(4′-sulfonatophenylazo)-4-((2″-hydroxy-3″-acetylamino-6″,8″-disulfonato)naphthylazo)-6-sulfonatonaphthalene (tetrasodium salt)/Food Black 1 (III) (C.I. 25440); Acid Blue 9 (VII) (C.I. 42090); Acid Violet 43 (V) (C.I. 60730); Acid Green 25 (V) (C.I. 61570); sodium salt of 1-amino-4-cyclohexylamino-9,10-anthraquinone-2-sulfonic acid/Acid Blue 62 (V) (C.I. 62045); Acid Blue 78 (V) (C.I. 62105); sodium salt of 4-hydroxy-3-((2-methoxyphenyl)azo)-1-naphthalenesulfonic acid/Acid Red 4 (III) (C.I. 14710); 2-piperidino 5-nitrobenzenesulfonic acid (VI′); 2-(4′-N,N(2″-hydroxyethyl)amino-2′-nitro)anilineethanesulfonic acid (VI′); 4-β-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzenesulfonic acid (VI′); Acid Violet 49 (VII) (C.I. 42640); Acid Blue 7 (VII) (C.I. 42080); sodium salt of 1,2-dihydroxy-3-sulfoanthraquinone/Mordant Red 3 (V) (C.I. 58005); sodium salt of 1-amino-9,10-dihydro-9,10-dioxo-4-(phenylamino) 2-anthracenesulfonic acid/Acid Blue 25 (V) (C.I. 62055); sodium salt of 4-hydroxy-3-((2-methoxyphenyl)azo)-1-naphthalenesulfonic acid/Acid Red 4 (III) (C.I. 14710).
Most of these dyes are described in particular in the Color Index published by The Society of Dyers and Colorists, P.O. Box 244, Perkin House, 82 Grattan Road, Bradford, Yorkshire, BD1 2JB, England.
The anionic dyes that are most particularly preferred are the dyes designated in the Color Index under the code C.I. 58005 (monosodium salt of 1,2-dihydroxy-9,10-anthraquinone-3-sulfonic acid), C.I. 60730 (monosodium salt of 2-[(9,10-dihydro-4-hydroxy-9,10-dioxo-1-anthracenyl)amino]-5-methylbenzenesulfonic acid), C.I. 15510 (monosodium salt of 4-[(2-hydroxy-1-naphthalenyl)azo]benzenesulfonic acid), C.I. 15985 (disodium salt of 6-hydroxy-5-[(4-sulfophenyl)azo]-2-naphthalenesulfonic acid), C.I. 17200 (disodium salt of 5-amino-4-hydroxy-3-(phenylazo)-2,7-naphthalenedisulfonic acid), C.I. 20470 (disodium salt of 1-amino-2-(4′-nitrophenylazo)-7-phenylazo-8-hydroxy-3,6-naphthalenedisulfonic acid), C.I. 42090 (disodium salt of N-ethyl-N-[4-[[4-[ethyl(3-sulfophenyl)methyl]amino]phenyl](2-sulfophenyl)methylene]-2,5-cyclohexadien-1-ylidene]-3-sulfobenzenemethanaminium hydroxide, inner salt), C.I. 61570 (disodium salt of 2,2′-[(9,10-dihydro-9,10-dioxo-1,4-anthracenediyl)diimino]bis[5-methyl]benzenesulfonic acid).
Use may also be made of compounds corresponding to the mesomeric or tautomeric forms of structures (III) to (X).
The direct dyes may be chosen from natural direct dyes.
Among the natural direct dyes that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidin, orceins, brazilin, brazilein, hematin and hematoxylin. Use may also be made of extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes and notably henna-based poultices or extracts.
According to a preferred embodiment, the direct dyes are chosen from the triarylmethane direct dyes of formulae (IIa1) and (IIa2) below, and mixtures thereof:
in which:
The direct dye(s) are preferably chosen from Basic Red 51, HC Blue 15, and mixtures thereof.
The direct dye(s) may be present in the composition in a total content ranging from 0.001% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 3% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 0.1% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to a preferred embodiment, the composition has a total content of colouring agents of less than 0.1% by weight, preferably less than 0.01% by weight and more preferentially less than 0.001% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a more preferred embodiment, the composition is free of colouring agents.
The composition may also comprise one or more additional basifying agents other than the carbonates, bicarbonates and silicates as defined previously.
According to a preferred embodiment, the composition does not comprise any additional basifying agent chosen from aqueous ammonia and/or alkanolamines.
The composition may also comprise one or more acidifying agents.
The composition preferably has a pH of less than or equal to 11, preferably less than or equal to 10.5, preferably less than or equal to 10.
The pH of the composition may range from 8 to 11, preferably from 8 to 10.5, more preferentially from 8 to 10.
According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the pH of the composition ranges from 8.3 to 10.
The composition preferably comprises water in a content ranging from 5% to 99% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 5% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition may also comprise at least one organic solvent.
The term “organic solvent” means an organic substance that is capable of dissolving another substance without chemically modifying it.
The composition may be in liquid form, in the form of a serum, in thickened form, in particular a gel, a cream, a wax or a paste, or in foam form.
The composition may also comprise one or more additional compounds chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants, cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic, associative or non-associative thickening polymers of natural or synthetic origin, silicones in the form of oil, gums or resins or non-silicone plant, mineral or synthetic oils, UV-screening agents, fillers, such as nacres and metal oxides such as titanium dioxides, clays, fragrances, peptizers, vitamins and preserving agents.
Additional Characteristics of the Process According to the Invention
In particular, the composition is applied to wet or dry keratin fibres.
Preferably, the keratin fibres are dark keratin fibres.
The term “dark keratin fibres” means keratin fibres with a tone depth of less than or equal to 6 (dark blond) and preferably less than or equal to 4 (chestnut-brown).
The “tone depth” is the unit known to hairstyling professionals, published in the book Sciences des traitements capillaires [Hair treatment sciences] by Charles Zviak, 1988, published by Masson, pages 215 and 278; the tone depths range, according to the European scale, from 1 (black) to 10 (very light blond), one unit corresponding to one tone; the higher the figure, the lighter the shade.
The composition may advantageously be applied to the keratin fibres in an amount ranging from 0.1 g to 20 g of composition per gram of keratin fibres.
The composition is left to stand on the fibres for a period generally from 1 minute to 1 hour, preferably from 5 minutes to 60 minutes.
By way of example, the composition may be left to stand on the fibres for a period of 50 minutes.
The composition may be left to stand on the fibres under an occlusive system. A non-limiting example of an occlusive system that may be mentioned is an occlusive system of envelope type made of aluminium or plastic film or a hair cap with or without holes.
The temperature during the lightening process is conventionally between room temperature (between 15° C. and 25° C.) and 80° C. and preferably between room temperature and 60° C.
By way of example, the temperature during the lightening process is 33° C.
After the treatment, the keratin fibres are optionally rinsed with water, optionally washed with a shampoo and then rinsed with water, before being dried or left to dry naturally.
The drying step may be performed using absorbent paper, a hairdryer or a styling hood.
The composition is preferably prepared by mixing at least two compositions. Preferably, the mixing of said at least two compositions is performed extemporaneously, before application of the composition to the keratin fibres.
According to a preferred embodiment, the composition results from the mixing of at least two compositions, preferably two compositions:
Preferably, at least one of the compositions (A) or (B) is aqueous.
According to a preferred embodiment, composition (A) is aqueous.
According to a particular embodiment, composition (B) is anhydrous.
According to a particular embodiment, composition (A) is aqueous and composition (B) is anhydrous.
The term “aqueous composition” means a composition comprising at least 5% by weight of water. Preferably, an aqueous composition comprises more than 10% by weight of water and even more advantageously more than 20% by weight of water.
According to a more preferred embodiment, the composition results from the mixing of at least two compositions, preferably two compositions:
Preferably, at least one of the compositions (A1) or (B1) is aqueous.
According to a preferred embodiment, composition (A1) is aqueous.
According to a particular embodiment, composition (B1) is anhydrous.
According to a particular embodiment, composition (A1) is aqueous and composition (B1) is anhydrous.
The composition used in the process according to the present invention makes it possible to obtain lightening of keratin fibres characterized by a lower b* value, preferably 10% lower and more preferentially 15% lower than the b* value measured at the same level of intensity L* on keratin fibres lightened using a composition comprising one or more persulfates, the values of b* and L* being measured in the CIE L*a*b* system.
Preferably, the values of b* and L* are measured according to the colour evaluation method described in the examples.
According to a second aspect, a subject of the present invention is the use of the composition as defined previously for lightening keratin fibres, preferably for lightening keratin fibres while at the same time de-yellowing them.
According to a fourth aspect, a subject of the present invention is a multi-compartment device (kit) comprising:
Preferably, the multi-compartment device comprises:
The examples that follow allow the invention to be understood more clearly, without, however, being limiting in nature. In the examples that follow, unless otherwise indicated, all the amounts are shown as mass percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.
In these examples, the colour of the locks was evaluated in the CIE L*a*b* system using a Minolta Spectrophotometer CM3610A colorimeter (illuminant D65).
In this L*a*b* system, L* represents the intensity of the colour, a* indicates the shade of the colour on the green/red colour axis and b* represents the shade of the colour on the blue/yellow colour axis. The greater the value of L*, the lighter the colour. The greater the value of a*, the redder the colour, and the greater the value of b*, the yellower the colour.
The following compositions C1 to C12 were prepared and then applied according to the application protocol described below:
10 g of each of the compositions C1 to C12 are applied to twelve 1-g locks of Caucasian HT4 type hair on a hotplate maintained at a temperature of 33° C. The whole is covered with a cellophane film for 50 minutes.
The locks are then rinsed, washed with a standard shampoo, rinsed again and then dried.
The results of the colorimetric measurements are collated in the table below:
The results show that the comparative compositions comprising a persulfate make it possible to obtain a good level of lightening characterized by relatively high L* values, but the colour shades obtained have a pronounced yellow component characterized by high b* values.
Compositions C13 to C16 below were prepared and then applied according to the application protocol described below:
10 g of each of the compositions C13 to C16 are applied to four 1-g locks of Caucasian HT4 type hair on a hotplate maintained at a temperature of 33° C. The whole is covered with a cellophane film for 50 minutes.
The locks are then rinsed, washed with a standard shampoo, rinsed again and then dried.
The results of the colorimetric measurements are collated in the following table:
The results show that compositions according to the invention make it possible to obtain a good level of lightening characterized by relatively high L* values. Furthermore, the colour shades obtained are characterized by lower b* values for an equivalent level of intensity L* for the compositions according to the present invention than for the persulfate-based comparative compositions of Example 1 as illustrated in
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2013722 | Dec 2020 | FR | national |
| 2013725 | Dec 2020 | FR | national |
| Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/EP2021/086225 | 12/16/2021 | WO |
