The present invention relates to a process for realizing an upper for shoes.
As is known, there are currently numerous types of shoes on the market, prevalently sports shoes, comprising a knitted upper.
Such shoes have rapidly conquered the market, thanks to their comfort and casual style, therefore they are also worn for free time, perfectly combining the advantages of practicality with those of fashion.
The knitting process of the upper allows various types of shoes having different technical characteristics from each other to be produced, which make them suitable for any user.
The technique used for producing the knitted upper, processed with a rectilinear knitting machine further envisages the use of a single yarn, for reducing the seams and the weight, and allowing maximum lightness of the upper.
However, following the formation of the upper, it must be subjected to numerous manual processes and requires numerous connection points for its association with a sole.
In fact, the upper produced in the rectilinear knitting machine does not exit already shaped but requires a further step for cutting off the excess yarn with the consequence of further increasing production times and costs.
Furthermore, even if the result obtained is a very light upper, the latter requires further seams so as to close it for the purpose of containing the user's foot in the area delimited by the sole.
The production times of a knitted upper on a rectilinear knitting machine are still fairly long as they vary from an average of 25 minutes to 45 minutes.
The task set by the present invention is that of obtaining a process for realizing an upper for shoes that overcomes the mentioned disadvantages of the prior art.
Within the scope of this task, an object of the invention is that of obtaining a process for realizing an upper for shoes that is perfectly closed, shaped and ready to be connected to a sole for making a complete shoe.
It is yet another object of the invention to design a process for realizing an upper for shoes with extremely reduced times and costs with production waste substantially eliminated with respect to knitted uppers of the prior art.
It is yet another object of the invention to design a process for realizing an upper for shoes that provides the possibility to knit several yarns without ever having to cut them continuously.
It is yet another object of the invention to design a process for realizing an upper for shoes that simultaneously allows three-dimensional pouches for containing the tip and heel of the user's foot.
It is yet another object of the invention to design a process for realizing an upper for shoes that allows, amongst other things, the simultaneous realizationrealization of slots for the passage of laces, the laces themselves, a protective tongue and the heel-counter cover.
It is yet another object of the invention to design a process for realizing an upper for shoes that also allows a counter-upper to be realized simultaneously with the upper.
It is yet another object of the invention to design a process for realizing an upper for shoes that advantageously allows, according to the type of sole to which the upper will be connected, a closure thereof with the axis aligned with the axis of the sole so as to remain totally covered by the latter.
These objects and still others, which will become more apparent below, are substantially achieved by a process for realizing an upper for shoes, characterized in that it uses at least a first and second group of needles of a needle-bearing cylinder of a circular knitting machine, each needle of said first group and of said second group of needles being used in a tuck stitch or loop position and/or in a plain drop stitch position and/or in a missed stitch position at least during the forward rotation of said needle-bearing cylinder, said at least first and second group of needles being used alternatively in said at least forward rotation of said needle-bearing cylinder so as to knit several yarns together without having to continuously cut them.
The subject matter of the present invention is also the characteristics set forth in the subordinate claims and in particular the fact that during the return rotation of said needle-bearing cylinder at least a third and a fourth group of needles are used, each needle of said third group and of said fourth group of needles being used in said tuck-stitch or loop position and/or in said plain drop stitch position and/or in said missed or bridle stitch position, said at least a third and fourth group of needles being used alternatively in said return rotation of said needle-bearing cylinder.
The first group of needles and/or said second group of needles are respectively identical to said third and/or said fourth group of needles or are respectively different.
At least the first and second group of needles, during the formation of said upper, realize at least one three-dimensional pouch for containing the tip and/or the heel of the user's foot, the slots for the laces and the tying laces thereof, a protective tongue for protecting the user's foot from the tension of the laces, an elastic zone made using an elastic yarn, the join between the various processed parts of the upper, a heel-counter cover and additional holes at least for anchoring said upper to a sole or to any internal lining of said upper.
Advantageously, furthermore, the needles of said groups of needles, during the formation of said upper, realize at least one seam of the tip of the upper aligned with the axis of the sole itself thanks to the fact that they can increase or decrease at each change of direction of said needle-bearing cylinder.
Additional features and advantages will become more apparent from the description of preferred but non-exclusive embodiments of the invention that are illustrated by way of indicative and non-limiting example in the appended drawings, in which:
With particular reference to the figures described above, the process for realizing an upper 1 for shoes 2, according to the invention, uses at least a first and a second group of needles 3 and 4 of a needle-bearing cylinder 5 of a circular knitting machine not shown.
Advantageously, each needle of the first group 3 and of the second group 4 of needles is used in a tuck-stitch or loop position and/or in a plain drop stitch position and/or in a missed or bridle stitch position during the forward rotation of the needle-bearing cylinder 5.
During this forward rotation of the needle-bearing cylinder the first and second group of needles 3 and 4 are used one alternatively to the other so as to be able to knit several yarns together without having to continuously cut them and, therefore, providing the possibility to be able to perform further processes at the same time as the formation of the upper, as will be highlighted below.
The above allows a substantial amount of time to be saved for realizing an upper, eliminating most of the manual processes with respect to processes of the known type.
Furthermore, the upper thus produced, right after being knitted, is ready for fixing to the sole 6 of the shoe 2.
Advantageously, during the return rotation of the needle-bearing cylinder 5 at least a third and a fourth group of needles 7 and 8 are used.
Also in this case, each needle of the third and fourth group of needles 7 and 8 is used in a tuck-stitch or loop position and/or in a plain drop stitch position and/or in a missed or bridle stitch position.
Also in this case the third and fourth group of needles 7 and 8 are used alternatively during the return rotation of the needle-bearing cylinder 5.
Obviously in the return step of the needle-bearing cylinder, the third group of needles 7 selected may be the same or different or partially different from the first and/or second group of needles 3 and 4.
The same is also valid for the fourth group of needles 8 or for a fifth or sixth group of needles.
As represented in
During the formation of the pouch 10 the needles of the first group of needles 3 are in a drop stitch position and take the yarn for knitting said pouch while the needles of the second group of needles 4 are in a missed or bridle position and do not take part in the creation of the pouch 10 and can be increased or decreased at each change of direction of the needle-bearing cylinder.
As represented in
During the formation of the slots 20 the needles of the first group of needles 3 are in position for creating the knitting of the upper without ever increasing the number of needles used while the needles of the second group of needles 4 work previously and subsequently to the processing of the slots themselves and comprise the needles used for the formation of the slots and the needles used in the other zones of the upper.
As represented in
In particular, during the formation of the laces, the needles of the first group of needles 3 are determined by the width of each lace and create the knitting without ever increasing the number of needles used for all the rows necessary, represented in
During the formation of the laces 30 the needles of the second group of needles 4 fix the end of each of the laces to the upper.
As represented in
During the formation of the protective tongue 40 the needles of the first group of needles 3 are in a drop stitch position for connecting the tongue to the upper while the needles of the second group of needles 4 are in a drop stitch position and take the yarn for knitting the tongue.
The second group of needles, during this step, increases or decreases at each change of direction of the needle-bearing cylinder 5 to determine the dimensions of the tongue.
As represented in
During the formation of the elastic zone the needles of the first group of needles 3 comprise needles to the right and left of the elastic zone 50.
Simultaneously, the needles of the second group of needles 4 knit with said elastic yarn.
Advantageously, the needles of the first and second group of needles 3 and 4 can increase or decrease at each inversion of direction of the needle-bearing cylinder. As represented in
During the formation of the join 60 the needles of the first group of needles 3 are in a drop stitch position and rise to take the yarn of the right-hand process while the needles of the second group of needles 4 are also in a drop stitch position but rise to take the left-hand yarn.
Also in this case the needles of the first and second group of needles 3 and 4 can increase or decrease at each change of direction of the needle-bearing cylinder. As represented in
The heel-counter can, for example, cover the collar start zone of the upper to improve the aesthetics and/or increase the abrasion resistance of the collar itself. During the formation of the heel-counter cover 70 the needles of the first group of needles are in a drop stitch position and take the yarn to knit the heel-counter cover 70.
The needles of the first group of needles can increase or decrease at each change of direction of the needle-bearing cylinder according to the dimensions to be given to the heel-counter cover.
During this step, the needles of the second group of needles 4 are in a missed or bridle position and do not take part in the creation of the heel-counter cover.
As represented in
In this case the needles of the first group 3 rise to take the yarn and create the left-hand process of the additional hole by selecting a first pre-chosen needle while the needles of the second group 4 rise to take the yarn of the right-hand process starting from the needle subsequent to the first pre-chosen needle until a second pre-chosen needle subsequent to the first, (
As shown in
In particular, in the conclusive part of the upper an open mouth remains, which must be sewn using a sewing machine or a linking machine.
Thanks to the process according to the present invention in which, as can be seen, the needles of the first and of the second group of needles can increase or decrease at each change of direction, it is possible to realize the pouches of the tip that have a direction aligned with the sole 6 of the shoe 2.
In this way, as can be easily understood, when the upper 1 is connected to the sole 6 the seam 90 will be totally hidden and covered by the sole guaranteeing a perfect aesthetic effect for the shoe.
The formation of a mouth aligned with the axis of the sole requires a first and second group of needles.
The first group of needles follows the right-hand side of the tip of the upper and the second group the left-hand side.
The needles of both groups can increase or decrease as can be seen in
In all the processes described above, it is always possible to use further groups of needles each in a tuck-stitch or loop position to vary the resistance of the knitted item for example to abrasion. Also in this further group of needles, the latter can increase or decrease at each change of direction of the needle-bearing cylinder. Thanks to the process according to the invention, it is also possible to realize a double upper or counter-upper.
In particular, such solution can be obtained through a doubling in series by inverting the first part from the tip to the ankle and leaving the second part unchanged from the ankle to the tip of the various processes described above, realizing two uppers connected to each other which in the assembly step will be inside each other.
The internal upper protects the foot and the external one can assume the technical and aesthetic characteristics required.
Not least, it is also possible to realize an open upper by inverting the order of the processes described. In this case the upper remains open and after the knitting it is connected directly to the sole.
The subject matter of the present invention is also an upper for shoes performed according to one or more of the steps of the process described above.
In fact, the upper for shoes according to the invention has, according to requirements, one or more of the characteristics according to the process described above.
The process for realizing an upper for shoes according to the invention is susceptible to many modifications and variations, all falling within the scope of the inventive concept; furthermore, all the details are replaceable by technically equivalent elements.
The materials used, as well as the dimensions, can be any according to the needs and the state of the art.
Number | Date | Country | Kind |
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102017000025731 | Mar 2017 | IT | national |
This application is a National Stage of International Application No. PCT/EP2018/055495 filed Mar. 6, 2018, which published in English on Sep. 13, 2018 as WO 2018/162494 and claims priority to Italian Application No. 102017000025731 filed Mar. 8, 2017. All of the above applications are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety.
Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind |
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PCT/EP2018/055495 | 3/6/2018 | WO | 00 |