Patent Application
20210172097
This invention concerns the sector of the production of customized zipper tapes for application on items of apparel and accessories, and specifically a process for the production of a woven tape with weft effect using a jacquard loom which permits control of each thread of the weft, warp and cord so that the design is not subject to limitations of repetition and length.
According to the current state of the art it is known that zippers are systems of closure composed of two tapes of warp effect fabric on which nylon, metal or plastic teeth are fastened by means of cords and staggered in such a way as to fit together in a dovetail one on the other. These zippers are also equipped with a pull that serves to couple or separate said teeth.
The demands of fashion require that even zippers, which were used to be merely functional elements of apparel, must now be also and above all decorative, with patterns, woven or printed, representing a frieze, motif, a band of words or numerals, or whatever else is in style at the moment.
Until now, the tapes on which the typical zipper teeth are fastened were woven on looms that produced a warp effect, where it is possible to create a single weave by means of a closed pick, and the design is limited by the number of heddles or heddle frames, so that the design visible on the tape was created by the warp threads (which run longitudinally, parallel to the direction of output of the tape) interlacing with the weft threads (perpendicular to the direction of output of the tape). Thus any design on the tape is created prevalently by the warp threads.
According to the current state of the art, it is also known that there are tapes, woven such as those described above, with warp effect, on which a more or less well-defined image can be printed. The tape obtained, however, is a woven tape with a printed design and not a tape with the design woven into it, so that the quality of the design, from the esthetic standpoint, is inferior in sharpness and precision to the one woven into the fabric.
According to the current state of the art, other woven tapes are known, produced on jacquard looms with weft effect, but which have never been used or usable for zippers, in which the design motif is created mainly by the weft thread that are, in turn, interlaced with the warp threads.
These woven tapes have many uses in apparel, including:
At the present time, the only tapes used in the production of zippers are those with warp effect, that is, with a single weft in which the level of definition of the design is not very high and on which it is not possible to obtain an image produced in a wide range of colours, as this is incompatible with the production process.
According to the current state of the art in the sector of woven tapes the following documents are known:
These documents all disclose fabric tapes for zippers woven with warp effect and that can have designs woven only with the warp threads interlaced with a single weft colour and with limits from the graphic standpoint.
Moreover, until now it was not possible to produce a woven tape with weft effect provided with a cord for fastening teeth and thus forming a zipper element.
The purpose of this invention is to present a process for the production of a zipper with weft effect for zippers woven on a jacquard loom with weft effect, that is, with the possibility of inserting different colours in the weft.
Another purpose of this invention is to present a process for the production of a tape woven with a jacquard loom with weft effect in which the definition of the design is greater than that obtainable in a tape woven with warp effect, as the density of weft threads per centimeter is greater than in a zipper tape known to the current state of the art.
Not last, a further scope of this invention is to present a zipper tape woven on a jacquard loom that permits a customization of the product, such as the insertion as a design in the zipper tape of a trademark or logo identical to that of a woven label and, in any case, identifying the brand.
These and other purposes are achieved by this invention, which concerns a process for the production of a zipper tape woven on a jacquard loom with weft effect.
Additional characteristics and advantages of the invention will be clearer from the description of a preferred, but not exclusive, embodiment of the procedure that is the subject of this patent application, illustrated for informative purposes, but without limitation, in the drawings included hereunder:
the cord (2);
the small added beam (3), positioned in front of the main beam (4) and supported by a rod (s) fastened to the uprights (k) of the jacquard loom;
a heddle (c);
a jacquard (e);
a reed (g);
a cloth roll (b).
According to a preferred—but not limiting—embodiment, this invention concerns a process for the production of a zipper tape woven on a jacquard loom with weft effect (1).
This process is made possible by the insertion, during weaving, of a cord (2) to create a thickness on one side of the tape (
Insertion of the cord (2) during the weaving process is possible thanks to the addition of a small beam (3) to a jacquard loom known according to the current state of the art.
Without this alteration, necessary to weave the thick cord (2) into the tape, the product could not be used for zippers.
The looms with which it is possible to produce the tape with weft effect (1) that are the subject of this patent application, function in such a way that it is possible to insert wefts of different colours into the tape, unlike looms with warp effect which have a single weft.
Basically, the difference between a loom that weaves tapes with weft effect, i.e. using the jacquard method, rather than a loom that weaves tapes with warp effect using heddles or frames, is that with a jacquard looms it is possible to control each warp thread individually to form a fashion design with the insertion of many weft threads, unlike other looms which are limited by the number of heddles and by the single weft.
By design is meant:
In the multicoloured weft arrangement shown in
The cord (2) is threaded through one of the heddles (c) whose movement, independently connected to the jacquard (e), is determined by this latter. Finally, said cord (2) passes through the reed (g) and is incorporated into the tape by tubular weaving. The draft of the tape with the cord (2) is controlled by the cloth roll (b).
The rate of unrolling the quantity of cord (2) is regulated by the pressure that the springs (m) and (ml) (visible in
In FIG. 2 of document U.S. Pat. No. 2,424,411 A it can be seen how part of the tape adjacent to the tubular element is created with the warp threads (W) that unwind on the small beam (20) and have greater density and draft than the warp threads (W1) that unwind on the small beam (40). The different density and greater draft force the cord (C) shown in
The substantial difference between this invention and patent application U.S. Pat. No. 2,424,411 A is that in this invention the loom does not have two different beams (20, 40); the work is done by a single beam (4) (visible in
The weft is the arrangement of threads that are interlaced with those of a warp to form a fabric. In a process of weaving on a loom, the weft threads are those arranged horizontally, going from one selvage to the other, forming the design and covering the warp threads almost entirely. In this case the tape obtained is called “weft effect”, where the design is mainly formed by the weft threads. In tapes produced with warp effect, the warp threads, which are worked mainly on the face of the fabric, produce the design.
In both types of loom, the warp threads are placed parallel lengthwise, and consist of many threads wound on the beam (a cylinder positioned behind the loom). These threads, after interlacing with the weft in the manner required by the design, are rolled on the cloth roller (a cylinder positioned in front of the loom).
If the loom weaves with warp effect, the individual threads of the warp are made to pass through the rings of the heddles. The heddles are vertical metal wires with an eye at the center, mounted on a frame called the heddle frame. The textile product obtained, limited in the development of the weft thread, is defined as “warp effect”.
On looms that weave with weft effect, however, the threads that pass through the eyes are connected and controlled individually by the (e) and for the development of the weft of the fabric there are multiple possibilities for the creation of a design on the face of the fabric.
This technique is defined as “weft effect”.
The fabric is formed by the interlacing of warp and weft threads: between the warp threads that are raised and lowered, an opening forms through which the shuttle, rapier or needle bearing the weft thread, is launched horizontally. In this way the weft thread is woven between the warp threads. When the shuttle, rapier or needle arrives at the end of its stroke, the heddles that were raised are lowered and the heddles that were lowered are raised and the shuttle returns through the new opening, making another insertion, and so on. After each passage of the shuttle, the reed tightens the weave with an alternating motion back and forth.
Repeating the same movements over and over, the fabric is produced and fed onto the cloth roll. Said cloth roll, in an alternative embodiment, may also be omitted, so that the fabric obtained can fall to the floor without being rolled.
In this patent application the small additional beam (3) is positioned behind the loom in front of the main beam (4) and contains the cord (2) which is threaded through one of the heddles where the threads of the rear beam (unrolling beam) pass, to allow it to unroll.
Simultaneously with the weaving process, in the space occupied by the cord (2) a tubular weave is produced to permit its insertion.
Said tubular weave is a double weave and is produced only in the space where the cord (2) is to be inserted. Said tubular weave is obtained by the construction of a double weave joined only longitudinally on the right and left so as to form an empty space in which said cord (2) can be inserted.
With the procedure that is the subject of this patent application, a woven tape with weft effect (1) is obtained for the production of zippers in which the design produced by the weft threads is sharp, clear and very well-defined. So that the zipper becomes an element of ornament capable of following the development of fashion and can reproduce an identifying mark such as a trademark or logo, even identical to that of the woven label and in any case univocally referring to a brand.
The materials and dimensions of the finding as described above, and illustrated in the enclosed drawings, and claimed hereafter, can be of any kind or type depending on the needs of the case. Moreover, all the details are replaceable with others that are technically equivalent, without thereby exceeding the scope of protection of this patent application.
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| 102017000151308 | Dec 2017 | IT | national |
| 102018000007086 | Oct 2018 | IT | national |
| Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/EP2018/025332 | 12/21/2018 | WO | 00 |
