Patent Application
20070297992
The object of the present invention is a product release system to atomize cosmetic compositions, which has pressure-resistant packaging, a capillary-containing spray head, and a propellant-containing cosmetic composition, and wherein the composition contains at least one hair-conditioning ingredient, which is selected from cationic surfactants, amino surfactants, silicone compounds, fatty alcohols, oils, plant extracts, protein hydrolysates, amino acids, panthenol, panthenyl ethyl ether, sorbitol, betaine, and creatine. The object of the invention is thus a corresponding method for hair treatment.
Many cosmetic hair products contain hair-conditioning ingredients. Hair-conditioning ingredients are materials having at least one hair-care effect such as, for example, improving combing properties in wet hair or dry hair, improving the hold of the hair when wet or dry, improving the shine of the hair, or reducing the flyaway effect. Products with the most intensive hair-care effects are usually highly viscous products such as conditioners, hair repair products, gels, waxes, hair dressing creams, or treatments with a non-fluid, creamy, pasty, semisolid, or gel-type consistency. The products currently on the market are typically taken from the packaging and placed in the hands, slightly distributed between the hands, and worked into the hair. In doing so, the product is not evenly distributed, in addition, some product mass remains on the hands. Up to now, it has not been possible to distribute highly viscous formulations (e.g. conditioners and hair-repair products having a viscosity >1,500 mPa s or >5,000 mPa s) extremely precisely to hair. Lower-viscosity, fluid products can be distributed easier and more evenly, however, they often have a less intensive hair-conditioning and hair-care effect.
A process for atomizing liquid is known from WO 03/051523 A1 with which the spray is formed using a capillary. Only the application with respect to atomizing liquid, i.e., fluid, compositions is described. A fixture for atomizing liquid products is described in WO 03/051522 A2, wherein the spray is formed using a capillary. Only the use of liquid, i.e., fluid, compositions for atomizing, which can also be highly viscous, is described, wherein the maximum sprayable viscosity is 5,000 mPa s.
Thus, there is a need for products that can be precisely distributed to the hair and that also have the same intensive care and conditioning effects as the highly viscous, non-fluid, creamy, or pasty hair-repair products, or that go beyond their effects. The object of the invention, in particular, was to further improve the distributability on hair, the combing properties, the hair shine and/or the holding properties of conventional hair treatment compositions, which were previously unavailable as a spray, and/or the hair treated with said compositions.
The object of the invention is a product release system for atomizing cosmetic compositions. The product release system has the following features:
(a) pressure-resistant packaging;
(b) a spray head containing a capillary; and
(c) a propellant-containing cosmetic composition,
wherein the atomization is done using the capillary and the composition contains at least one hair-conditioning agent, which is selected from cationic surfactants, amino surfactants, silicone compounds, fatty alcohols, oils, plant extracts, protein hydrolysates, amino acids, panthenol, panthenyl ethyl ether, sorbitol, betaine, and creatine.
The term “atomize” is understood to mean the release of the product in the form of dissipated particles. The dissipated particles can have varying shapes, consistencies, and sizes. The properties of the atomized particles can include everything from fine aerosol atomized spray to liquid drops, snow-like drops, solid spray flakes, and spray foam.
The quantities of ingredients (e.g., wt. %) indicated in the following are each based on the basic composition without propellant unless explicitly indicated otherwise. The quantities of the propellant are based on the total composition including propellant.
The composition is preferably non-liquid at 25° C. and/or has a viscosity greater than 5,000 mPa s (measured with a HAAKE VT-550 Rheometer, SV-DIN test body at a temperature of 25° C. and a shear speed of 12.9 s−1). The properties of the compositions to be used according to the invention that are related to consistency are based on the base composition without propellant (unless explicitly indicated otherwise). Non-liquid compositions in terms of the invention are particularly non-flow-capable compositions, which, for example, can be determined due to the fact that they will not flow off of a glass surface tilted at 450 at a temperature of 25° C. Gel compositions are characterized in that the memory module G′ is larger than the loss module G″ at 25° C. with oscillographic measurements in the typical measurement range (0.01 to 40 Hz).
The viscosity of the composition to be used is preferably greater than 5,000 up to 100,000, or especially preferably 10,000 to 50,000 mPa s, and very especially preferably 25,000 to 35,000 mPa s, measured with a HAAKE VT-550 Rheometer, SV-DIN test body at a temperature of 25° C. and a shear speed of 12.9 s−1.
Aerosol spray cans constructed of metal or plastic can be used as the pressure-resistant packaging. Preferred metals are tin plates and aluminum, while the preferred plastic is polyethylene terephthalate.
Suitable spray systems with capillary-containing spray heads, with which the spray is formed using a capillary, are described in WO 03/051523 A1 and in WO 03/051522 A2. The capillaries preferably have a diameter of 0.1 to 1 mm, or particularly of to 0.6 mm and a length that is preferably 5 to 100 mm, or particularly 5 to 50 mm. The spray principle is also described in Aerosol Europe, vol. 13. no. 1-2005, pages 6-11. The spray system is based on the principle of capillary atomization. The conventional swirl nozzle as well as, if necessary, the uptake tube are replaced by capillaries. The energy-consuming and propellant-intensive swirling of the content of the can and the required strong dilution of the product with solvents is not necessary as compared to conventional spray systems. Even if only a small quantity of propellant is used, the product rises upward on the wall of the uptake tube capillary and is propelled, after the valve in the (wider) capillary of the spray head, in the direction of the exit opening. In this manner, small drops from the flowing propellant are torn from the surface of the liquid and continue to flow as aerosol. Since there is no swirl chamber to inhibit the flow of the product nor any atomizing nozzle available, the energy in the system can be used much more efficiently to create the desired spray. The spray rate can be adjusted via the selection of the capillary geometry in conjunction with the interior pressure created by the propellant or a propellant mixture. Preferred spray rates are 0.01 to 0.5 g/s, or particularly 0.1 to 0.3 g/s. The size of the spray drops created with the atomization can be adjusted via the selection of the capillary geometry in conjunction with the interior pressure or the viscosity of the composition. Suitable capillary atomization systems can be obtained in a product called TRUSPRAY® from Boehringer Ingelheim microParts GmbH.
The preferred drop size distributions are those with which the dv(50) value is a maximum of 200 μm, e.g., of from 50 to 200 μm with a maximum of 100 μm being especially preferred, e.g., of from 70 to 90 μm and/or with which the dv(90) value is a maximum of 160 μm, e.g. of from 90 to 160 μm, with a maximum of 150 μm being especially preferred, e.g., of from 115 to 150 μm. The dv(50) or dv(90) values provide the maximum diameter that 50% or 90% of all droplets have. The drop size distribution can, for example, be determined with the help of a particle measurement unit based on laser beam diffraction, e.g., a Malvern particle sizer measuring device. Compositions that form a snow-like consistency, flakes, or foam (spray foam) upon exiting the capillary spray system are also preferred.
The propellant to be used can be selected from lower alkanes, particularly C3 to C5 hydrocarbons such as, for example, n-butane, i-butane, and propane, or also mixtures thereof, as well as dimethylethers or fluorine hydrocarbons such as F 152a (1,1-difluoroethane) or F 134 (tetrafluoroethane) as well as other gaseous propellants present with the pressures considered, such as, for example, N2, N2O, and CO2 as well as mixtures of the aforementioned propellants. The propellant is preferably selected from propane, n-butane, isobutane, dimethylether, fluorinated hydrocarbons, and mixtures thereof. The content of propellant is, in addition, preferably 15 to 85 wt. %, with 25 to 75 wt. % being especially preferred.
The composition contains cosmetically acceptable solvents, preferably an aqueous, alcoholic, or aqueous alcoholic medium. The lower alcohols with 1 to 4 C atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol, can be contained as alcohols, particularly those typically used for cosmetic purposes. The composition can be in a pH range of 2.0 to 9.5. A pH range of 4 to 8 is particular preferred, providing no special application forms require other pH values. As additional co-solvents, organic solvents or a mixture of solvents with a boiling point of less than 400° C. can be contained in a quantity of from 0.1 to 15 wt. % or preferably of from 1 to 10 wt. %. Unbranched or branched hydrocarbons such as n-pentane, hexane, isopentane, and cyclic hydrocarbons such as cyclopentane and cyclohexane are particularly suitable as additional co-solvents. These volatile hydrocarbons can also be used as propellants. Other, especially preferred water-soluble solvents are glycerin, ethylene glycol, and propylene glycol in a quantity of up to 30 wt. %.
The product release system according to the invention can be used for hair treatment. The compositions can be agents for the care of hair such as, for example, hair-repair products or hair rinses, which, for example, can be applied as leave-on or rinse-off products, agents for the temporary reshaping and/or stabilizing of the hairstyle (styling agent), for example hair sprays, hair lacquers, hair gels, hair waxes, styling creams, etc., permanent, semipermanent, or temporary hair colorants, for example oxidative hair colorants or nonoxidative hair tinting agents or hair bleaching agents, permanent hair restructuring agents, for example in the form of a mildly alkaline or acidic permanent wave or hair straightening agents containing a reducing agent, or in the form of permanent wave fixing agents containing an oxidizing agent.
The hair-conditioning ingredients are contained in the composition according to the invention preferably in a quantity of from 0.01 to 20 wt. %, or particularly of from 0.05 to 10, or of from 0.1 to 5 wt. %. Hair-conditioning agents are understood to be those capable of providing a hair-care or conditioning effect on wet or dry hair when used in a 0.01 to 5% aqueous, alcoholic, or aqueous alcoholic solution or dispersion, e.g., those that improve the hold or ability to comb or increase the shine. Hair-conditioning agents are, in particular, those for which the function “Hair Conditioning Agents” is indicated in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 10th edition, 2004.
Suitable cationic surfactants or amino surfactants contain amino groups and/or quaternized hydrophilic ammonium groups, which carry a positive charge in a solution and which can be represented by the general formula
N(+)R1R2R3R4X(−)
wherein R1 to R4 independently from one another stand for aliphatic groups, aromatic groups, alkoxy groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, alkylamido groups, hydroxyalkyl groups, aryl groups or alkaryl groups with 1 to 22 C atoms, whereby at least one residue has at least 6, preferably at least 8 C atoms and X− represents an anion, for example, a halide, acetate, phosphate, nitrate or alkyl sulfate, preferably a chloride. In addition to the carbon atoms and the hydrogen atoms, the aliphatic groups can also contain cross-compounds, or other groups, such as, for example, additional amino groups. Examples of suitable cationic surfactants are the chlorides or bromides of alkyldimethylbenzylammonium salts, alkyltrimethylammonium salts, e.g., cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, tetradecyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, alkyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium chlorides or bromides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides or bromides, alkylpyridinium salts, for example lauryl- or cetylpyridinium chloride, alkylamidoethyltrimethylammonium ether sulfates as well as compounds with cationic character such as amine oxides, e.g., alkylmethylamine oxides or alkylaminoethyldimethylamine oxides. Especially preferred are C8-22 alkyldimethylbenzylammonium compounds, C8-22 alkyltrimethylammonium compounds, especially cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, C8-22 alkyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium compounds, di-(C8-22 alkyl)-dimethylammonium compounds, C8-22 alkylpyridinium salts, C8-22 alkylamidoethyltrimethylammonium ether sulfates, C8-22 alkylmethylamine oxides, and C8-22 alkylaminoethyldimethylamine oxides.
In addition to the aforementioned cationic surfactants, other suitable cationic or amino-substituted surfactants are those of the formula R1—NH—(CH2)n—NR2R3
or of the formula R1-NH—(CH2)n—N+R2R3R4X−
wherein R1 is an acyl or an alkyl residue with 8 to 24 C atoms, which can be branched or linear, saturated or unsaturated, whereby the acyl and/or the alkyl residue can contain one or more OH groups, R2, R3 and R4 independently of one another are hydrogen, alkyl or alkoxyalkyl residues with 1 to 6 C atoms, which can be the same or different, saturated or unsaturated and can be substituted with one or more hydroxy groups, X− is an anion, especially a halide ion or a compound of the general formula RSO3−, wherein R has the meaning of saturated or unsaturated alkyl residues with 1 to 4 C atoms, and n means a whole number between 1 and 10, preferably from 2 to 5.
The active hair-conditioning compound is preferably an amidoamine and/or a quaternized amidoamine of the aforementioned formulae, wherein R1 is a branched or linear, saturated or unsaturated acyl residue with 8 to 24 C atoms that can contain at least one OH group. Preferred are such amines and/or quaternized amines, in which at least one of the residues R2, R3 and R4 means a residue according to the general formula CH2CH2OR5, wherein R5 can have the meaning of alkyl residues with 1 to 4 C atoms, hydroxyethyl or H. Suitable amines or amidoamines, which can be optionally quaternized, are especially such with the INCI names Ricinoleamidopropyl Betaine, Ricinoleamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Ricinoleamidopropyl Dimethyl Lactate, Ricinoleamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate, Ricinoleamidopropyltrimonium Chloride, Ricinoleamidopropyltrimonium Methosulfate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Cocamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Cocamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate, Cocamidopropyltrimonium Chloride, Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Isostearylamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Stearylamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Quaternium-33, Undecyleneamidopropyltrimonium Methosulfate.
In one embodiment, the agent according to the invention, as a hair-conditioning ingredient, contains at least one silicone compound preferably in a quantity of from 0.01 to 15 wt. %, with 0.1 to 5 wt. % being particularly preferred. The silicone compounds include volatile and nonvolatile silicones and silicones that are soluble and insoluble in the agent. One embodiment is high-molecular-weight silicone with a viscosity of 1,000 to 2,000,000 cSt at 25° C., or preferably 10,000 to 1,800,000 or 100,000 to 1,500,000. The silicone compounds include polyalkyl and polyaryl siloxanes, particularly with methyl, ethyl, propyl, phenyl, methylphenyl, and phenylmethyl groups. Polydimethyl siloxanes, polydiethyl siloxanes, and polymethylphenyl siloxanes are preferred. Also preferred are shine-providing, arylated silicones with a refractive index of at least 1.46 or at least 1.52. The silicone compounds include, in particular, the materials with the INCI designations Cyclomethicone, Dimethicone, Dimethiconol, Dimethicone Copolyol, Phenyl Trimethicone, Amodimethicone, Trimethylsilylamodimethicone, Stearyl Siloxysilicate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, and Dimethicone Crosspolymer. Silicone resins and silicone elastomers are also suitable, wherein these are highly crosslinked siloxanes. Crosslinked silicones can be used simultaneously to provide consistency to the preferably creamy, solid, or highly viscous composition. Crosslinked silicones are, for example, those with the INCI designations Acrylates/Bis-Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Butyl Dimethiconemethacrylate/Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, C30-45 Alkyl Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, C30-45 Alkyl Dimethicone/Polycyclohexene Oxide Crosspolymer, Cetearyl Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone Crosspolymer-2, Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3, Dimethicone/Divinyldimethicone/Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer, Dimethicone/PEG-15 Crosspolymer, Dimethicone/PEG-10 Crosspolymer, Dimethicone/Phenyl Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone/Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer, Dimethicone/Titanate Crosspolymer, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone/Vinyltrimethylsiloxysilicate Crosspolymer, Dimethiconol/Methylsilanol/Silicate Crosspolymer, Diphenyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Diphenyl Dimethicone/Vinyl Diphenyl Dimethicone/Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Divinyldimethicone/Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Lauryl Dimethicone PEG-15 Crosspolymer, Lauryl Dimethicone/Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer, Methylsilanol/Silicate Crosspolymer, PEG-10 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-12 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-10 Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-10/Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-15/Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Silicone Quaternium-16/Glycidoxy Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Styrene/Acrylates/Dimethicone Acrylate Crosspolymer, Trifluoropropyl Dimethicone/PEG-10 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Trifluoropropyl Dimethicone/Trifluoropropyl Divinyldimethicone Crosspolymer, Trifluoropropyl Dimethicone/Vinyl Trifluoropropyl Dimethicone/Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Trimethylsiloxysilicate/Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Trimethylsiloxysilicate/Dimethiconol Crosspolymer, Vinyl Dimethicone/Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, and Vinyldimethyl/Trimethylsiloxysilicate Stearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer.
Preferred silicones are: cyclic dimethyl siloxanes, linear polydimethyl siloxanes, block polymers from polydimethyl siloxane and polyethylene oxide and/or polypropylene oxide, polydimethyl siloxanes with terminal or lateral polyethylene oxide or polypropylenoxide radicals, polydimethyl siloxanes with terminal hydroxyl groups, phenyl-substituted polydimethyl siloxanes, silicone emulsions, silicone elastomers, silicone waxes, silicone gums, amino-substituted silicones, silicones substituted with quaternary ammonia groups, and crosslinked silicones.
Cation-active silicone compounds are also especially preferred. These compounds are substituted with cationic groups or cationisable groups. Suitable cation-active silicone compounds either have at least one amino group or at least one ammonium group. Silicone polymers with amino groups are known under the INCI designations Amodimethicone and Trimethylsilylamodimethicone. These polymers are polydimethylsiloxanes with aminoalkyl groups. The aminoalkyl groups can be lateral or terminal. Suitable amino silicones are as those of the general formula
R8R9R10Si—(OSiR11R12)x-(OSiR13Q)y-OSiR14R15R16
R8, R9, R14, and R15, independently from one another, are the same or different and mean C1 to C10 alkyl, phenyl, hydroxy, hydrogen, C1 to C10 alkoxy or acetoxy, or preferably C1-C4 alkyl, and especially preferably methyl or trimethylsilyl,
R10 and R16, independently from one another, are the same or different and mean —(CH2)a—NH2, with a being equal to 1 through 6, C1 to C10 alkyl, phenyl, hydroxy, hydrogen, C1 to C10 alkoxy or acetoxy, or preferably C1-C4 alkyl, and especially preferably methyl,
R11, R12 and R13, independently from one another, are the same or different and mean hydrogen, C1 to C20 hydrocarbon, which can contain O and N atoms, or preferably C1 to C10 alkyl or phenyl, or especially preferably C1 to C4 alkyl, but particularly methyl,
Q means -A-NR17R18 or -A-N+R17R18R19, wherein A stands for a divalent C1 to C20 alkylene compound group, which can also contain O and N atoms as well as OH groups, and R17, R18, and R19, independently from one another, are the same or different and mean hydrogen, C1 to C22 hydrocarbon, or preferably C1 to C4 alkyl or phenyl. Preferred radicals for Q are —(CH2)3—NH2, —(CH2)3NHCH2CH2NH2, —(CH2)3OCH2CHOHCH2NH2, and —(CH2)3N(CH2CH2OH)2, —(CH2)3—NH3+, and —(CH2)3OCH2CHOHCH2N+(CH3)2R20, wherein R20 is a C1 to C22 alkyl group, which can also have OH groups, x means a number between 1 and 10,000, or preferably between 1 and 1,000, y means a number between 1 and 500, or preferably between 1 and 50. The molecular weight of the amino silicone is preferably between 500 and 100,000. The amine portion (meq/g) preferably ranges between 0.05 to 2.3, with 0.1 to 0.5 being particularly preferred.
Suitable silicone polymers with two terminal quaternary ammonium groups are known under the INCI designation Quaternium-80. These are dimethylpolysiloxanes with 2 terminal alkyl ammonium groups. Suitable quaternary amino silicones are those of the general formula
R21R22R23N+-A-SiR8R9—(OsiR11R12)n—OsiR8R9-A-N+R21R22R232X−
A stands for a divalent C1 to C20 alkylene compound group, which can also contain O and N atoms as well as OH groups and is preferably —(CH2)3OCH2CHOHCH2,
R8 and R9, independently from one another, are the same or different and mean C1 to C10 alkyl, phenyl, hydroxy, hydrogen, C1 to C10 alkoxy or acetoxy, or preferably C1-C4 alkyl, or especially preferably methyl,
R11 and R12, independently from one another, are the same or different and mean hydrogen, C1 to C20 hydrocarbon, which can contain O and N atoms, or preferably C1 to C10 alkyl or phenyl, or especially preferably C1 to C4 alkyl, but particularly methyl,
R21, R22, and R23, independently from one another, mean C1 to C22 alkyl groups, which can contain hydroxyl groups and wherein preferably at least one of the groups has at least 10 C atoms and the remaining groups have 1 to 4 C atoms, n is a number of from 0 to 200, or preferably 10 to 100. These types of diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes are sold by GOLDSCHMIDT in Germany under the trade names Abil® Quat 3270, 3272, and 3274.
Suitable hair-conditioning oils are, in particular, hydrophobic oils having a melting point of less than 25° C. and a boiling point of preferably greater than 250° C., or particularly greater than 300° C. Volatile oils can also be used. In principle, any oil generally known to a person skilled in the art can be used. Suitable oils are vegetable or animal oils, mineral oils (liquid paraffin), or mixtures thereof. Hydrocarbon oils, e.g., paraffin or isoparaffin oils, squalane, fatty acid esters such as, for example, isopropyl myristate, oils from fatty acids and polyolene, particularly triglycerides, are suitable.
Suitable plant oils are, for example, sunflower seed oil, coconut oil, castor oil, lanolin oil, jojoba oil, corn oil, soy oil, Kukui nut oil, (sweet) almond oil, walnut oil, peach seed oil, avocado oil, tea tree oil, sesame oil, camellia oil, evening primrose oil, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango seed oil, cuckoo flower oil, thistle oil, macadamia nut oil, grapeseed oil, apricot seed oil, babassu oil, olive oil, wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, hazelnut oil, safflower oil, canola oil, sasanqua oil, and shea butter.
Saturated, mono- or poly-unsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols containing C6-C30, or preferably C10-C22, and especially preferably C12-C22 carbon atoms can be used as fatty alcohols. For example, decanol, octanol, octenol, dodecanol, dodecenol, decenol, octadienol, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinol alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, capryl alcohol, caprine alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol, as well as Guerbet alcohols thereof can be used in terms of the invention, wherein this list should be considered exemplary and not limiting. The fatty alcohols are preferably derived, however, from natural fatty acids, wherein one can assume a recovery from the esters of fatty acids via reduction. Fatty alcohol portions, which are created by the reduction of naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, turnip oil, cottonseed oil, soy oil, sunflower seed oil, and linseed oil or of their transesterification products with fatty acid esters occurring with the corresponding alcohols can be used according to the invention and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols. Wool wax alcohols can also be used according to the invention.
Suitable plant extracts are typically produced by extracting the entire plant. However, in individual cases, it can be preferable to produce the extracts exclusively from seeds and/or leaves of plants. Primarily preferred according to the invention are the extracts from green tea, oak bark, stinging nettles, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, linden blossom, almonds, aloe vera, pine needles, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lemon, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, lady's smock, wild thyme, yarrow, thyme, melissa, restharrow, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng, and ginger root. Water, alcohols, as well as mixtures thereof can be used as extraction agents for producing the plant extracts mentioned. Preferred alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but particularly polyvalent alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as a stand-alone extraction agent as well as in a mixture with water, e.g., plant extracts based on water/propylene glycol in a 1:10 to 10:1 ratio. The plant extracts can be used in pure or diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they typically contain approx. 2 to 80 wt. % of active substance and the extraction agent or extraction agent mixture used in their recovery as a solvent. Mixtures of multiple, particularly of two, different plant extracts can also be used.
Additional suitable hair-conditioning agents are protein hydrolysates and amino acids. Protein hydrolysates in terms of the invention are understood to be protein hydrolysates and/or amino acids and derivatives thereof. Derivatives are, for example, condensation products with fatty acids or cationically modified protein hydrolysates. Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures, which are obtained by decomposition (due to acidic, alkaline, or enzymatic catalysis) of proteins. The term protein hydrolysates is also understood to include total hydrolysates as well as individual amino acids and derivatives thereof as well as mixtures of various amino acids. Amino acids are, for example, alanine, arginine, asparagine, asparagine acid, cystine, glutamine, glutamine acid, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, and valine. Furthermore, polymers constructed from amino acids and amino acid derivatives according to the present invention are included in the term protein hydrolysates. The latter includes, for example, polyalanine, polyasparagine, polyserine, etc. Other examples are L-alanyl-L-proline, polyglycine, glycyl-L-glutamine, or D/L-methionine-5-methylsulfonium chloride. 3-amino acids and derivatives thereof such as 13-alanine, anthranilic acid, or hippuric acid can also be used. The molar mass of the protein hydrolysates is between 75, the molar mass for glycine, and 200,000, the molar mass is preferably 75 to 50,000 and especially preferably 75 to 20,000 Dalton.
According to the invention, protein hydrolysates of plant, animal, marine, or synthetic origin can be used. Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk, and lactoprotein hydrolysates, which can also be in the form of salts. According to the invention, the use of protein hydrolysates of plant origin, e.g., soy, almond, pea, potato, rice, and wheat protein hydrolysates as well as their condensation products with fatty acids are preferred. Even though the use of protein hydrolysates as such is preferred, if necessary, other obtained amino acid mixtures can be used in their place.
Suitable cationically derived protein hydrolysates are substance mixtures, which, for example, can be obtained by converting alkaline, acidic, or enzyme hydrolyzed proteins with glycidyl trialkyl ammonium salts or 3-halo-2-hydroxypropyl trialkyl ammonium salts. Proteins that are used as starting materials for the protein hydrolysates can be of plant or animal origin. Standard starting materials are, for example, keratin, collagen, elastin, soy protein, rice protein, lactoprotein, wheat protein, silk protein, or almond protein. The hydrolysis results in material mixtures with mole masses in the range of approx. 100 to approx. 50,000. Customary, mean mole masses are in the range of about 500 to about 1,000. It is advantageous if the cationically derived protein hydrolysates have one or two long C8 to C22 alkyl chains and two or one short C1 to C4 alkyl chain accordingly. Compounds containing one long alkyl chain are preferred. Cationic protein derivatives are known, for example, under the INCI designations Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein or Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Keratin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Silk, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, and Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein.
In one embodiment, the composition to be used according to the invention is a gel and contains at least one thickener or gel-former preferably in a quantity of from 0.01 to 20 wt. % or of from 0.1 to 10 wt. %, of from 0.5 to 8 wt. %, or especially preferably of from 1 to 5 wt. %. Materials for which the function “Viscosity Increasing Agent” is indicated in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 10th edition, 2004 are essentially suitable. The thickener or gel-former is preferably a thickening polymer and is especially preferably selected from copolymers consisting of at least one first type of monomer, which is selected from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, and at least one second type of monomer, which is selected from esters of acrylic acid and ethoxylated fatty alcohol, crosslinked polyacrylic acid, crosslinked copolymers consisting of at least one first type of monomer, which is selected from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, and at least one second type of monomer, which is selected from esters of acrylic acid with C10 to C30 alcohols, copolymers consisting of at least one first type of monomer, which is selected from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, and at least one second type of monomer, which is selected from esters of itaconic acid and ethoxylated fatty alcohol, copolymers consisting of at least one type of monomer, which is selected from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, at least one second type of monomer, which is selected from esters of itaconic acid and ethoxylated C10 to C30 alcohol, and a third type of monomer, which is selected from C1 to C4 aminoalkyl acrylates, copolymers consisting of two or more monomers, which are selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, acrylic acid esters and methacrylic acid esters, copolymers consisting of vinyl pyrrolidone and ammonium acryloyl dimethyltaurate, copolymers consisting of ammonium acryloyl dimethyltaurate and monomers selected from esters of methacrylic acid and ethoxylated fatty alcohols, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl guar, glyceryl polyacrylate, glyceryl polymethacrylate, copolymers consisting of at least one C2, C3, or C4 alkylene and styrene, polyurethane, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, polyacrylamide, copolymers crosslinked with decadiene consisting of maleic acid anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, locust bean gum, guar gum, xanthan, dehydroxanthan, carrageenan, karaya gum, hydrolyzed corn starch, copolymers consisting of polyethylene oxide, fatty alcohols, and saturated methylene diphenyl diisocyanate (e.g., PEG-150/stearyl alcohol/SMDI copolymer).
In an additional embodiment, the composition is waxy and contains at least one wax that is solid at 25° C. in a quantity of preferably from 10 to 80 wt. %, particularly of from 20 to 60 wt. %, or of from 25 to 50 wt. %, as well as, if necessary, other water-insoluble materials that are liquid at room temperature. The waxy consistency is preferably characterized in that the needle penetration number (unit of measurement 0.1 mm), test weight 100 g, testing time 5 s, test temperature 25° C. (according to DIN 51 579) preferably ranges from 2 to 70, or particularly from 3 to 40, and/or that the composition can be melted and has a solidification point that is greater than 25° C., or is preferably in a range of from 30 bis 70° C., or especially preferably in a range of from 104-40 to 55° C.
Principally any wax that is known in the prior art can be used as a wax or waxy material. These waxes include animal, vegetable, mineral, and synthetic waxes, microcrystalline waxes, macrocrystalline waxes, solid paraffins, petroleum jelly, Vaseline, ozocerite, montan wax, Fischer-Tropsch wax, polyolefin waxes, e.g., polybutene, beeswax, wool wax, and its derivatives such as, for example, wool wax alcohols, candelilla wax, olive wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, apple wax, hydrogenated fats, fatty acid esters, fatty acid glycerides with a solidification point greater than 40° C., silicone waxes or hydrophilic waxes such as, for example, high-molecular-weight polyethylene glycol waxes with a molecular weight of from 800 to 20,000, preferably of from 2,000 to 10,000 g/mol. The waxes or waxy materials have a solidification point greater than 25° C., or preferably greater than 40° C. or 55° C. The needle penetration number (0.1 mm-100 g, 5 s, 25°, according to DIN 51 579) preferably lies in the range of from 2 to 70, or especially 3 to 40.
In another embodiment, the composition is emulsion-like, wherein the consistency is preferably creamy. The emulsion can be a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion, a microemulsion, or a higher emulsion. In addition to water, preferably at least one hydrophobic oil that is liquid at room temperature (25° C.) as well as at least one emulsifier is contained. The oil content is preferably of from 1 to 20 wt. %, or particularly of from 2 to 10 wt. %. The emulsifier content is preferably of from 0.01 to 30 wt. %, or particularly of from 0.1 to 20 wt. % or of from 0.5 to 10 wt. %. Additional hair-conditioning materials can be contained in a quantity of from e.g., 0 to 20 wt. %, or preferably 0.01 to 10 wt. %.
Suitable emulsifiers can include nonionic, anionic, cationic, or zwitterionic surfactants. Suitable nonionic surfactants are, for example,
Suitable anionic surfactants are, for example, salts and esters of carboxylic acids, alkyl ether sulfates and alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, sulfonic acids and their salts (e.g., sulfosuccinates or fatty acid isethienates), phosphoric acid esters and their salts, acylamino acids and their salts. A comprehensive description of these anionic surfactants is found in the publication “FIEDLER—Lexikon der Hilfsstoffe” [FIEDLER—Dictionary of Adjuvants], volume 1, fifth edition (2002), pages 97 to 102, to which expressed reference is made. Preferred surfactants are mono-, di-, and/or triesters of phosphoric acid with addition products of from 2 to 30 mol ethylene oxide to C8 to C22 fatty alcohols.
Suitable amphoteric surfactants are, for example, derivatives of aliphatic quaternary ammonium, phosphonium, and sulfonium compounds of the formula
wherein R1 represents a straight-chain or branched-chain alkyl, alkenyl, or hydroxyalkyl group with 8 to 18 C atoms and 0 to about 10 ethylene oxide units and 0 to 1 glycerol units, Y is an N-, P-, or S-containing group, R2 is an alkyl or monohydroxyalkyl group with 1 to 3 C atoms, the total of x+y equals 2 if Y is a sulfur atom, and the total of x+y equals 3 if Y is a nitrogen atom or a phosphorus atom, R3 is an alkylene or hydroxyalkylene group with 1 to 4 C atoms, and Z(−) represents a carboxylate, sulfate, phosphonate, or phosphate group. Other amphoteric surfactants such as betaines are also suitable. Examples of betaines include C8 to C18 alkylbetaines such as cocodimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, lauryldimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, lauryldimethyl-alpha-carboxyethylbetaine, cetyldimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, oleyldimethylgammacarboxypropylbetaine, and lauryl-bis-(2-hydroxypropyl)-alpha-carboxyethylbetaine, C8 to C18 sulfobetaines such as cocodimethylsulfopropylbetaine, stearyldimethylsulfopropylbetaine, lauryldimethylsulfoethylbetaine, lauryl-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)sulfopropylbetaine, the carboxyl derivatives of imidazole, C8 to C18 alkyldimethylammonium acetate, C8 to C18 alkyldimethylcarbonylmethylammonium salts, as well as C8 to C18 fatty acid alkylamidobetaines such as, for example, coconut fatty acid amidopropylbetaine and N-coconut fatty acid amidoethyl-N-[2-(carboxymethoxy)ethyl]-glycerin (CTFA name: Cocoamphocarboxyglycinate).
The cosmetic composition to be used according to the present invention can also contain at least one additional active cosmetic ingredient or additive for the hair or skin/scalp. This active ingredient or additive can, for example, be selected from hair-conditioning materials, hair-setting materials, photoprotective materials, preservatives, pigments, direct-penetrating hair dyes, particle-shaped materials, oxidizing agents, reducing agents, and oxidative hair colorant precursor products. The active ingredients and additives, depending on the type and intended use, are preferably contained in a quantity of from 0.01 to 20 wt. %, or particularly of from 0.05 to 10 wt. %, or of from 0.1 to 5 wt. %.
In one embodiment, the agent according to the invention, as a hair-conditioning or hair-setting additive, contains at least one polymer with anionic groups or groups that can be anionized preferably in a quantity of from 0.01 to 20 wt. % or of from 0.05 to 10 wt. %, with 0.1 to 5 wt. % being particularly preferred. Groups that can be anionized are understood to be acid groups such as, for example, carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, or phosphoric acid groups that can be deprotonated using typical bases such as, for example, organic amines or alkali- or alkaline earth hydroxides. The anionic polymers can be partially or completely neutralized with an alkaline neutralizing agent. Such types of agents in which the acidic groups are neutralized in the polymer to 50 to 100%, or especially preferably to 70 to 100%, are preferred. Organic or inorganic bases can be used as the neutralizing agent. Particular examples of bases are amino alkanols such as, for example, ammomethylpropanol (AMP), triethanolamine or monoethanolamine, and also ammonia, NaOH, and KOH among others.
The anionic polymer can be a homo- or copolymer with acid group-containing monomer units derived from natural or synthetic sources, which, if necessary, can be polymerized with comonomers that contain no acid groups. Among the acid groups that can be considered are sulfonic acid, phosphoric acid, and carboxylic acid groups, of which the carboxylic acid groups are preferred. Suitable acid group-containing monomers are, for example, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, and maleic anhydride, maleic acid monoesters, especially the C1 to C7 alkyl monoesters of maleic acid, as well as aldehydrocarboxylic acids or ketocarboxylic acids. Comonomers that are not substituted with acid groups are, for example, acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl- and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, vinylcaprolactone, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ester, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, amine-substituted vinyl monomers such as, for example, dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, monoalkylaminoalkyl acrylate, and monoalkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C1 to C7 alkyl groups, with C1 to C3 alkyl groups being especially preferred.
Suitable polymers with acid groups are especially homopolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, copolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid with monomers selected from acrylic acid or methacrylic acid esters, acrylamides, methacrylamides and vinylpyrrolidone, homopolymers of crotonic acid as well as copolymers of crotonic acid with monomers selected from vinyl esters, acrylic acid or methacrylic acid esters, acrylamides and methacrylamides that are uncrosslinked or crosslinked with polyfunctional agents. A suitable natural polymer is, for example, shellac.
Preferred polymers with acid groups are:
Terpolymers from acrylic acid, alkyl acrylate, and N-alkylacrylamide (INCI designation: Acrylate/Acrylamide Copolymer), especially terpolymers from acrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and N-tert-butylacrylamide, crosslinked or uncrosslinked vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymers (INCI designation: VA/Crotonate Copolymer), copolymers from one or more C1 to C5 alkyl acrylates, especially C2 to C4 alkyl acrylates and at least one monomer selected from acrylic acid or methacrylic acid (INCI designation: Acrylate Copolymer), e.g. terpolymers from tert-butyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate and methacrylic acid, sodium polystyrenesulfonate, vinylacetate/crotonic acid/vinyl alkanoate copolymers, for example, copolymers from vinyl acetate, crotonic acid and vinyl propionate, copolymers from vinyl acetate, crotonic acid and vinyl neodecanoate (INCI designations: VA/Crotonate/Vinyl Propionate Copolymer, VA/Crotonate/Vinyl Neodecanoate Copolymer), aminomethylpropanol acrylate copolymers, copolymers from vinylpyrrolidone and at least one further monomer selected from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid as well as, if necessary, acrylic acid esters and methacrylic acid esters, copolymers from methyl vinyl ether and maleic acid monoalkylesters (INCI designations: Ethyl Ester of PVM/MA Copolymer, Butyl Ester of PVM/MA Copolymer), aminomethylpropanol salts of copolymers from allyl methacrylate and at least one further monomer selected from acrylic acid, and methacrylic acid as well as, if necessary, acrylic acid esters and methacrylic acid esters, crosslinked copolymers from ethyl acrylate and methacrylic acid, copolymers from vinyl acetate, mono-n-butyl maleate and isobornyl acrylate, copolymers from two or more monomers selected from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid as well as, if necessary, acrylic acid esters and methacrylic acid esters, copolymers from octylacrylamide and at least one monomer selected from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid as well as, if necessary, acrylic acid esters and methacrylic acid esters, polyesters from diglycol, cyclohexanedimethanol, isophthalic acid and sulfoisophthalic acid, wherein the alkyl groups of the aforementioned polymers as a rule preferably possess 1, 2, 3, or 4 C atoms.
In one embodiment, the agent according to the invention, as a hair-conditioning or hair-setting additive, contains at least one zwitterionic and/or amphoteric polymer preferably in a quantity of from 0.01 to 20 wt. % or of from 0.05 to 10 wt. %, or especially preferably of from 0.1 to 5 wt. %. Zwitterionic polymers simultaneously have at least one anionic and at least one cationic charge. Amphoteric polymers exhibit at least one acidic group (e.g., carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid group) and at least one alkaline group (e.g., amino group). Acidic groups can be deprotonated using typical bases such as, for example, organic amines or alkali- or alkaline earth hydroxides.
Preferred zwitterionic or amphoteric polymers are:
copolymers formed from alkylacrylamide, alkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, and two or more monomers from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid as well as, if necessary, their esters, especially copolymers from octylacrylamide, acrylic acid, butylaminoethyl methacrylate, methyl methacrylate and hydroxypropyl methacrylate (INCI designation: Octylacrylamide/Acrylate/Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer), copolymers, that are formed from at least one of a first type of monomer that possesses quaternary amino groups and at least one of a second type of monomer that possesses acid groups, copolymers from fatty alcohol acrylates, alkylamine oxide methacrylate and at least one monomer selected from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid as well as if necessary acrylic acid esters and methacrylic acid esters, especially copolymers from lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, ethylamine oxide methacrylate and at least one monomer selected from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid as well as if necessary their esters, copolymers from methacryloyl ethyl betaine and at least one monomer selected from methacrylic acid and methacrylic acid esters, copolymers from acrylic acid, methyl acrylate and methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride (INCI designation: Polyquaternium-47), copolymers from acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride and acrylates or copolymers from acrylamide, acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride, 2-amidopropylacrylamide sulfonate, and dimethylaminopropylamine (INCI designation: Polyquaternium-43), oligomers or polymers, producible from quaternary crotonoylbetaines or quaternary crotonoylbetaine esters.
In one embodiment, the agent according to the invention, as a hair-conditioning or hair-setting additive, contains at least one cationic polymer, i.e., a polymer with cationic or cationizable groups, especially primary, secondary, tertiary, or quaternary amine groups preferably in an amount of from 0.01 to 20 wt. % or of from 0.05 to 10 wt. %, or especially preferably of from 0.1 to 5 percent by weight. The cationic charge density is preferably 1 to 7 meq/g.
The suitable cationically active polymers are preferably hair setting or hair conditioning polymers. Suitable cationic polymers preferably contain quaternary amino groups. Cationic polymers can be homo- or copolymers, where the quaternary nitrogen groups are contained either in the polymer chain or preferably as substituents on one or more of the monomers. The monomers containing ammonium groups can be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers. Suitable cationic monomer are unsaturated compounds that can undergo radical polymerization, which bear at least one cationic group, especially ammonium-substituted vinyl monomers such as, for example, trialkylmethacryloxyalkylammonium, trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium, dialkyldiallylammonium and quaternary vinylammonium monomers with cyclic, cationic nitrogen-containing groups such as pyridinium, imidazolium or quaternary pyrrolidones, e.g. alkylvinylimidazolium, alkylvinylpyridinium, or alkylvinylpyrrolidone salts. The alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups such as, for example, C1 to C7 alkyl groups, and especially preferred are C1 to C3 alkyl groups.
The monomers containing ammonium groups can be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers. Suitable comonomers are, for example, acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl- and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl- and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, vinylcaprolactone, vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl esters, for example vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C1 to C7 alkyl groups, and especially preferred are C1 to C3 alkyl groups.
Suitable polymers with quaternary amino groups are, for example, those described in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary under the designations Polyquaternium such as methylvinylimidazolium chloride/vinylpyrrolidone copolymer (Polyquaternium-16) or quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (Polyquaternium-11) as well as quaternary silicone polymers or silicone oligomers such as, for example, silicone polymers with quaternary end groups (Quaternium-80).
Preferred cationic polymers of synthetic origin:
poly(dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride), copolymers from acrylamide and dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride, quaternary ammonium polymers, formed by the reaction of diethyl sulfate with a copolymer from vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, especially vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate methosulfate copolymer (e.g., Gafquat® 755 N, Gafquat® 734), quaternary ammonium polymers from methylvinylimidazolium chloride and vinylpyrrolidone (e.g., LUVIQUAT® HM 550), Polyquaternium-35, Polyquaternium-57, polymers from trimethylammonium ethyl methacrylate chloride, terpolymers from dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride, sodium acrylate and acrylamide (e.g., Merquat® Plus 3300), copolymers from vinylpyrrolidone, dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide and methacryloylaminopropyllauryldimethyl ammonium chloride, terpolymers from vinylpyrrolidone, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate and vinylcaprolactam (e.g., Gaffix® VC 713), vinylpyrrolidone/methacryl amidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymers (e.g., Gafquat® HS 100), copolymers from vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, copolymers from vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam and dimethylaminopropylacrylamide, poly- or oligoesters formed from at least one first type of monomer, that is selected from hydroxyacids substituted with at least one quaternary ammonium group, dimethylpoly siloxane substituted with quaternary ammonium groups in the terminal positions.
Suitable cationic polymers that are derived from natural polymers are especially cationic derivatives of polysaccharides, for example, cationic derivatives of cellulose, starch or guar. Furthermore, chitosan and chitosan derivatives are also suitable. Cationic polysaccharides are, for example, represented by the general formula
G-O—B—N+RaRbRcX−
G is an anhydroglucose residue, for example, starch or cellulose anhydroglucose,
B is a divalent linking group, for example alkylene, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene or hydroxyalkylene,
Ra, Rb, and Rc, independently from one another, are alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl, or alkoxyaryl, any of which can have up to 18 C atoms, wherein the total number of C atoms in Ra, Rb, and Rc is preferably a maximum of 20,
X is a conventional counter-anion, for example, a halide, acetate, phosphate, nitrate, or alkyl sulfate, preferably a chloride. Cationic celluloses are, for example, those with the INCI names Polyquaternium-4, Polyquaternium-10, or Polyquaternium-24. A suitable cationic guar derivative has, for example, the INCI designation Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride.
Especially preferred cationically-active substances are chitosan, chitosan salts and chitosan derivatives. Chitosans that can be used according to the invention can be fully or partially deacetylated chitins. By way of example, the molecular weight can be distributed over a broad range, from 20,000 to about 5 million g/mol, for example from 30,000 to 70,000 g/mol. However, the molecular weight will preferably lie above 100,000 g/mol, and especially preferred from 200,000 to 700,000 g/mol. The degree of deacetylation is preferably from 10 to 99%, and especially preferably from 60 to 99%. A preferred chitosan salt is chitosonium pyrrolidone carboxylate, e.g., Kytamer® PC with a molecular weight of from about 200,000 to 300,000 g/mol and a degree of deacetylation of from 70 to 85%. Chitosan derivatives that can be considered include quaternized, alkylated or hydroxyalkylated derivatives, e.g., hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl or hydroxybutyl chitosan. The chitosans or chitosan derivatives are preferably present in their neutralized or partially neutralized form. The degree of neutralization will be preferably at least 50%, especially preferably between 70 and 100%, as calculated on the basis of the number of free base groups. For the neutralization agent, in principle any cosmetically compatible inorganic or organic acids can be used such as, for example, formic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, hydrochloric acid and others, of which pyrrolidone carboxylic acid is especially preferred.
Preferred cationic polymers derived from natural sources:
cationic cellulose derivatives from hydroxyethyl cellulose and diallyldimethyl ammonium chloride, cationic cellulose deviates from hydroxyethyl cellulose and trimethylammonium-substituted epoxide, chitosan and its salts, hydroxyalkyl chitosans and their salts, alkylhydroxyalkyl chitosans and their salts, N-hydroxyalkylchitosan alkyl ethers.
In one embodiment, the agent according to the present invention contains 0.01 to 15 wt. %, or preferably 0.5 to 10 wt. %, of at least one synthetic or natural nonionic film-forming polymer. Suitable synthetic nonionic polymers are homo- or copolymers consisting of at least one of the following monomers: vinyl lactams such as, for example, vinyl pyrrolidone or vinyl caprolactam, vinyl esters such as, for example, vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, vinyl formamide, acrylamides, methacrylamides, alkyl acrylamides, dialkyl acrylamides, alkyl methacrylamides, dialkyl methacrylamides, alkyl acrylates, alkyl methacrylates, alkyl maleimides such as, for example, ethylmaleimide or hydroxyethylmaleimide, and alkylene glycols such as, for example, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, wherein the alkyl and/or alkylene groups of these monomers are preferably C1 to C7 alkyl groups, or especially preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.
Suitable homopolymers are, for example, those of vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone or N-vinylformamide. Further suitable synthetic, nonionic polymers are, for example, polyacrylamides, polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol copolymers, copolymerides from vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, terpolymers from vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl acetate, and vinyl propionate, polyacrylamides, polyvinyl alcohols as well as polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol copolymers. Suitable natural film-forming polymers are, in particular, those based on saccharide, preferably glucans, e.g., cellulose and derivatives thereof. Suitable derivatives are, in particular, those with alkyl and/or hydroxyalkyl substituents, wherein the alkyl groups can have, for example, 1 to 20, or preferably 1 to 4 C atoms, e.g., hydroxyalkyl cellulose. Preferred nonionic polymers are: polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyvinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymers, polyvinyl alcohol, isobutylene/ethylmaleimide/hydroxyethylmaleimide copolymer, copolymers from vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl acetate, and vinyl propionate.
In one embodiment, the agent according to the invention contains a photoprotective material preferably in a quantity of from 0.01 to 10 wt. % or of from 0.1 to 5 wt. %, or especially preferably of from 0.2 to 2 wt. %. The photoprotective materials include, in particular, all the photoprotective materials mentioned in EP 1 084 696. The following are preferred: 4-methoxy cinnamic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester, methyl methoxy cinnamate, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy benzophenone-5-sulfonic acid, and polyethoxylated p-aminobenzoate.
In one embodiment, the agent according to the present invention contains 0.01 to 20 wt. %, especially preferably 0.05 to 10 wt. %, or very especially preferably 0.1 to 5 wt. % of at least one hair-conditioning additive, selected from A-B block copolymers from alkyl acrylates and alkyl methacrylates, A-B block copolymers from alkyl methacrylates, and acrylonitrile, A-B-A block copolymers from lactide and ethylene oxide, A-B-A block copolymers from caprolacton and ethylene oxide, A-B-C block copolymers from alkylene or alkadiene compounds, styrene and alkyl methacrylates, A-B-C block copolymers from acrylic acid, styrene, and alkyl methacrylates, star-shaped block copolymers, hyper-branched polymers, dendrimers, intrinsically electrically conducting 3,4-polyethylene dioxythiophenes and intrinsically electrically conducting polyanilines.
In one embodiment, the agent according to the invention contains 0.01 to 5 wt. %, or especially preferably 0.05 to 1 wt. %, of at least one preservative. Suitable preservatives are those materials listed with the “Preservatives” function in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 10th edition, e.g., phenoxyethanol, benzylparaben, butylparaben, ethylparaben, isobutylparaben, isopropylparaben, methylparaben, propylparaben, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, methyldibromoglutaronitrile, and DMDM hydantoin.
In a preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention contains at least one pigment. The pigments can be colored pigments that provide coloring effects to the product mass or the hair, or they can be shine-enhancing pigments that provide shine effects to the product or the hair. The color or shine effects in the hair are preferably temporary, i.e., they remain until the next time the hair is washed and can be removed by washing the hair with typical shampoos. The pigments are not dissolved in the product mass and can be contained in a quantity of from 0.01 to 25 wt. %, with 5 to 15 wt. % being particularly preferred. The preferred particle size is 1 to 200 μm, or particularly 3 to 150 μm, and especially preferably 10 to 100 μm. The pigments are practically insoluble colorants in the application medium and can be inorganic or organic. Inorganic-organic mixed pigments are also possible. Inorganic pigments are preferred. The advantage of inorganic pigments is their extraordinary resistance to light, weather, and temperature. The inorganic pigments can be of natural origin, for example, manufactured from chalk, ocher, umbra, green earth, burnt Terra di Siena, or graphite. The pigments can also be white pigments such as, for example, titanium dioxide or zinc oxide, black pigments such as, for example, iron oxide black, color pigments such as, for example, ultramarine or iron oxide red, shine pigments, metal effect pigments, pearl shine pigments, as well as fluorescence or phosphorescence pigments, wherein it is preferred if at least one pigment is a colored, nonwhite pigment. Metallic oxides, metallic hydroxides, and metallic oxide hydrates, mixed phase pigments, sulfur-containing silicates, metallic sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metallic sulfates, metallic chromates, and metallic molybdates, as well as the metals themselves (bronze pigments) are suitable. Titanium dioxide (CI 77891), black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red and brown iron oxide (CI 77491), manganese violet (CI 77742), ultramarine (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, CI 77007, Pigment Blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (CI77289), iron blue (ferric ferrocyanide, CI77510), and carmine (cochineal) are particularly suitable.
Especially preferred are pearl-shine and color pigments based on mica and/or glimmer coated with a metallic oxide or a metallic oxychloride such as titanium dioxide or bismuth oxychloride as well as, if necessary, other color-providing materials such as iron oxides, iron blue, ultramarine, carmine, etc., and wherein the color can be determined by varying the layer thickness. These types of pigments are sold, for example, under the trade names Rona®, Colorona®, Dichrona®, and Timiron® by Merck, in Germany.
Organic pigments are, for example, the natural pigments sepia, Garcinia gummi-gutta, bone black, Van Dyke brown, indigo, chlorophyll, and other plant pigments. Synthetic organic pigments are, for example, azo-pigments, anthraquinoids, indigoids, and dioxazine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, isoindolinone, perylene, perinone, metallic complex, alkali blue, and diketopyrrolopyrrol pigments.
In one embodiment, the agent according to the present invention contains 0.01 to 10 wt. %, or especially preferably 0.05 to 5 wt. %, of at least one particle-shaped material. Suitable materials are, for example, materials that are solid and in the form of particles at room temperature (25° C.). Silica, silicates, aluminates, alumina, mica, salts, particularly inorganic metallic salts, metallic oxides, e.g., titanium dioxide, minerals, and polymer particles are somewhat suitable. The particles are present in the agent in an undissolved, preferably steadily dispersed form and can be deposited on the hair in solid form after being applied to the hair and after the solvent has evaporated. A stable dispersion can be obtained by providing the composition with a yield point that is great enough to inhibit any sinking of the solid particles. A sufficient yield point can be obtained by using suitable gel-formers in a suitable quantity. Preferred particle-shaped materials are silica (silica gel, silicium dioxide) and metallic salts, particularly inorganic metallic salts, wherein silica is especially preferred. Metallic salts are, for example, alkaline or alkaline-earth halogenides such as sodium chloride or potassium chloride, and alkaline or alkaline earth sulfates such as sodium sulfate or magnesium sulfate.
An additional embodiment relates to an agent for permanently restructuring hair. It contains at least one reducing agent, particularly a keratin-reducing mercapto compound preferably in a quantity of from 0.5 to 15 wt. %. The permanent wave agent is preferably present as an aqueous, alkaline (pH=5 to 10) preparation, which contains e.g., cysteine, cysteamine, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, mercapto carboxylic acids such as, for example, mercaptoacetic acid or thiolactic acid, or salts of mercapto carboxylic acids such as, for example, ammonium and guanidine salts of mercaptoacetic acid or thiolactic acid as a keratin-reducing mercapto compound. The required alkalinity is obtained by adding ammonia, organic amines, ammonium and alkali carbonates, or bicarbonates. Neutral or acidic (pH=4.5 to 7) hair restructuring agents that have an effective content of sulfites or mercaptocarboxylic acid esters in an aqueous medium can also be considered. In the first case, preferably sodium or ammonium sulfite or the salt of sulfuric acid with an organic amine such as, for example, monoethanolamine and guanidine, can be used in a concentration of approximately 2 to 12 wt. % (calculated as SO2). In the latter case, mercaptoacetic acid mono glycol esters or glycerin esters are particularly used in a concentration of approximately 5 to 50 wt. % (corresponding to a content of 2 to 16 wt. % mercaptoacetic acid). The agent according to the invention for permanent restructuring of hair can also contain a mixture of the aforementioned keratin-reducing compounds. For the oxidative after-treatment, a fixing agent according to the invention containing at least one oxidizing agent can be used. Examples of oxidizing agents that can be used in one of these types of fixing agents are sodium and potassium bromate, sodium perborate, urea peroxide, and hydrogen peroxide. The concentration of oxidizing agent can be approximately 0.5 to 10 wt. %. Both the agent according to the invention for permanent hair restructuring as well as the fixing agent according to the invention can be present in the form of an emulsion or in thickened form on an aqueous basis, particularly as a cream, gel, or paste.
The composition to be used according to the invention can further contain any additive components that are conventional for hair treatment agents, for example perfume oils, opacifying agents such as, for example, ethylene glycol distearate, styrene/PVP copolymers or polystyrenes, humectants, shine providers, product dyes, antioxidants, each preferably in quantities of from 0.01 to 10 wt. %, wherein the total quantity preferably does not exceed 10 wt. %.
A particular embodiment of the invention relates to a hair-conditioning agent. Hair-conditioning agents are, for example, conditioners, treatments, hair-repair products, rinses, and the like. The hair-conditioning agent according to the present invention can, after application to the dry, damp, or wet hair, either remain in the hair or it can be rinsed out after a suitable action period. The action periods depend on the type of hair. As a general rule, action periods of between 0.5 and 30 minutes, or particularly 0.5 and 10 minutes, or preferably between 1 and 5 minutes can be assumed.
The object of the invention is also a method for hair treatment, wherein
Instead of being sprayed directly onto the hair, the product can also be placed in the hands or on an application device such as, for example, a comb or a brush, and then distributed into the hair, particularly if the product has a snow-like consistency, or it is in the form of flakes or foam.
The products according to the invention are characterized, constrained by their special application with the special aerosol spray system to be used according to the invention, by a high level of conditioning performance in the hair. The advantages with use are characterized by comfortable application, improved distributability, and more economical dispensing with conditioning results that are equal to or better than conventional products, as well as improved combing properties with wet and dry hair, improved hold with wet and dry hair, without damaging the hair. The extremely precise spray behavior of the capillary system provides a very high level of even distribution of the product on the hair. This leads to better conditioning results and less consumption, because the product does not have to be distributed in the hands. An additional advantage of the products according to the present invention is that differing spray properties can be precisely adjusted by simply varying the propellant, the propellant composition, or the propellant pressure, these spray properties were not previously possible for the underlying active ingredient compositions. The spray properties include everything from a fine aerosol atomized spray and snow-like drops to flakes of spray and spray foam.
The following examples should serve to illustrate further the object of the present invention.
In the following examples, the individual active ingredient compositions were filled, along with the individually indicated propellants, into a pressure-resistant aerosol can and equipped with a capillary spray system, as can be obtained, for example, under the trade name TRUSPRAY® from Boehringer Ingelheim microParts GmbH.
Basic care for normal hair, conditions without damaging the hair.
Positive properties: Very good conditioning performance for damaged hair
Positive properties: Structural balancing for extremely damaged hair.
Positive properties: Well compatible hair-repair product for sensitive scalp
Persea gratissima (avocado) oil
Positive properties: Mild hair-repair product, for sensitive scalp, for very damaged hair.
Hamamelis virginiana (witch hazel) extract
Positive properties: The serum balances structurally damaged hair.
Positive properties: Daily hair care for normal to slightly damaged hair, conditions without damage.
Oryza sativa (rice) starch
Carthamus tinctorius (safflower) seed oil
Positive properties: Conditions dry and damaged hair.
Positive properties: Gel-type hair conditioner that smoothes the hair very well and conditions without causing damage.
Positive properties: Basic hair care for everyday use.
Positive properties: Conditioner for colored and damaged hair
Positive properties: Conditioning hair-repair product for colored and very damaged hair
Positive properties: Mild, scalp-friendly hair-repair product for very stressed hair.
Fill ratios in wt. %:
With these fill ratios, the products can be applied with a fine atomized spray.
Fill ratios in wt. %:
With these fill ratios, the products can be applied as a snow-like spray or in small flakes.
All documents cited in the Detailed Description of the Invention are, in relevant part, incorporated herein by reference, the citation of any document is not to be construed as an admission that it is prior art with respect to the present invention. To the extent that any meaning or definition of a term in this written document conflicts with any meaning or definition of the term in a document incorporated by reference, the meaning or definition assigned to the term in this written document shall govern.
While particular embodiments of the present invention have been illustrated and described, it would be obvious to those skilled in the art that various other changes and modifications can be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. It is therefore intended to cover in the appended claims all such changes and modifications that are within the scope of this invention.
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| 102005028385.3 | Jun 2005 | DE | national |
