The present invention belongs to the area of cosmetics in general and fragrances in particular and refers to a method for identifying the environmental impact of new compounds with regard to key parameters as for example biodegradability and carbon dioxide production.
Worldwide companies develop, produce and sell about hundred thousand fragrances, flavours and cosmetic ingredients which are based on roughly 50,000 mostly natural raw materials, as for example vanilla, citrus products, onions, fish, meat or flower and plant materials.
With extensive global sourcing comes great responsibility. According to regulatory requirements with increasing complexity every year new products are subject to strict sustainability requirements. Moving towards a sustainable product development, it is desirous to anticipate coming legal requirements by rating the chemical substances sourced in particular for fragrances individually, to get a better understanding of the degree of sustainability for each product. The aim of the present invention is providing a scoring model, called “Product Sustainability Scorecard” to increase transparency of the environmental impact of fragrances and related raw materials to facilitate product development. Therefore, the aim of the present invention is providing a method to satisfy the needs explained above.
Object of the present invention is a method for identifying fragrance compounds with low environmental impact and high degree of sustainability encompassing the following steps:
(a) providing a fragrance compound or a fragrance composition of interest;
(b) calculating scores for each of the following parameters
(b1) biodegradability;
(b2) biodiversity;
(b3) carbon dioxide impact;
(b4) process safety with regard to ecological toxicity;
(b5) process safety with regard to human toxicity;
(b6) land use;
(b7) renewability;
(b8) traceability;
(b9) waste generation; and
(b10) water consumption and/or pollution,
(c) summing up all scores and calculate the average product sustainability score (PSC); and
(d) proceed with those candidates showing a PSC of at least 70.
The Product Sustainability Scorecard (“PSS”) allows measuring the material performance within the following parameters which are considered having the highest impact on environment as compiled in parameters (b1) to (b10).
The results from PSS allow evaluating the environmental impact of fragrance prior to its production based on fundamental research results. In order to provide new compounds which not only match with market requirements in terms of olfactory performance, but also comply with regulatory requirements and the overall approach for providing only new products with high sustainability and low environmental impact, the invention is not a simple instruction to human mind, but provides a technical teaching which shortens development times and is therefore also of serious economic importance.
All parameters of the model are normalized to a scale from 0 to 100 without a dimension. However, units of pre-calculation steps are defined in the aspects of the different scorecard parameters. Objects of investigation for the scorecard were minimum 80% of the top raw materials, extrapolated to the entire material portfolio.
Environmental aspects of raw materials from waste streams like e.g. an orange peel, eucalyptus leafs etc. are not considered in this model.
Valuable side streams such as dipropylene glycol from 1,2-Propandiol production are allocated according to their molar masses. For example calculation for carbon dioxide impact followed the equation:
(Propylene oxide CO2 value*Propylene oxide Molar Mass+Propylene glycol CO2 value*Propylene glycol Molar/Mass) Dipropylene glycol Molar Mass
System Boundaries
Table 1 provides an overview of factors possibly occurring in the life cycle of cosmetic products in general and fragrances in particular, but were not considered in the course of the present invention:
Selection of Scorecard Criteria
One essential step of sustainable business is to make business related issues transparent to the public. Traceability thorough the entire supply chain is a crucial parameter. It is therefore an important aspect defined in the present product sustainability scorecard. Another guide to the present invention represent the so-called “nine planetary boundaries”, a central concept in an earth system framework proposed by a group of earth system and environmental scientists. The framework was first introduced in 2009, when a group of 28 internationally renowned scientists identified and quantified the first set of nine planetary boundaries within which humanity can continue to develop and thrive for generations to come. Crossing these boundaries could generate abrupt or irreversible environmental changes. Respecting the boundaries reduces the risks to human society of crossing these thresholds. It is one scope of the present invention to assess related concerns. The planetary boundaries are shown in Table 2:
Another guide to the present invention are the so-called “12 principles of Green Chemistry”, which also define environmental impact of a compound Green chemistry is an area of chemistry and chemical engineering focused on the design of products and processes that minimize the use and generation of hazardous substances. Paul Anastas of the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency formulated some simple rules of thumb for how sustainability can be achieved in the production of chemicals—the “Green chemical principles”. The principles are summarised in Table 3:
Considering traceability of products the nine planetary boundaries and twelve principles of green chemistry formed a basis for calculating possible impact of products on environment in terms of the ten categories presented above. From these findings ten criteria for setting up a Product Sustainability Scorecard were developed.
Basically, all fragrance compositions can be covered by the methodology according to the present invention. A minimum of 80% of raw material by mass (kg) is evaluated.
The Method of Scoring and Weighting of Scorecard Criteria
The following parameters were identified as important to meet the requirements for sustainable product development.
All parameters were considered to be of equal importance. The result of all parameters can be averaged to score a singly raw material or a complete formula. In the following it is explained in detail how the scores for each of the parameters (b1) to (b10) can be calculated.
Biodegradability
Biodegradation is one of the most important factors in assessing the environmental fate of chemicals. Biodegradation is the chemical dissolution of materials by bacteria, fungi, or other biological means. Biodegradability is evaluated according to the OECD Method 301/302 or equivalent. The tests of the OECD test series 301 (A-F) verify whether a substance is able for complete biodegradation under aerobic conditions. Different test methods are available for well or poorly soluble as well as volatile substances. The test usually takes 28 days. Test items must reach 60% biodegradation within 10 days to be classified as ‘ready biodegradable’.
The scoring of precursors of petro-chemicals has no influence on the scoring of the product. It is assumed that such precursors are used in the production process, making them irrelevant for the assessment of the final product.
For products made of renewable material with high E-factors and low biodegradability in low regulated countries, it is assumed that residues in waste could harm the environment. Therefore the values of biodegradability of precursors are also taken into account for the product scorecard (e.g. peppermint oil).
The scoring is illustrated by the following Scheme 1:
Scheme 1: Scoring
Biodiversity
Biodiversity is the variety of different types of life found on earth and the variations within species. Possible impacts to Biodiversity are evaluated as compiled in Table 3:
The scoring is illustrated by the following Scheme 2:
Scheme 2: Scoring
STEP 1 evaluation of the “Bio-Diversity Score” of the fragrance raw material based on the following scoring system
STEP 2 Calculation of the “Biodiversity Score” (BS) of the fragrance raw material. Each reactant Counts into the Product Result Related to Molar Masses Used:
Carbon Dioxide Impact
Carbon dioxide emissions are those stemming from the burning of fossil fuels and the manufacturing of cement. They include carbon dioxide produced during consumption of solid, liquid, and gas fuels and gas flaring. The scoring is illustrated by the following Scheme 3:
Scheme 3: Scoring
Reactant based CO2 emissions+Process based CO2 emissions
OCE=(‘Product based CO2 emissions’+‘Process based CO2 emissions’)*(1+‘% Losses’)
STEP 5 Normalization to scale 0 to 100 (Negative result is set to 0):
CO2 Score=(10−Overall CO2 Emissions)*10
PROCESS Safety (Eco Toxicity and Toxicity)
Hazard statements form part of the ‘Globally Harmonized System of Classification and Labelling of Chemicals’ (GHS). They are intended to form a set of standardized phrases about the hazards of chemical substances and mixtures.
The scoring is illustrated by the following Schemes 4 and 5:
Scheme 4 and 5: Scoring
MAX(‘(Eco) Tox Material Score’;‘(Eco) Tox Supplier Score’)=(Eco) Tox Score
⅔*MAX(‘(Eco)Tox Material Score’;‘(Eco)Tox Supplier Score’)+⅓*‘backpack of reactants’=(Eco)Tox Score
MIN(‘(Eco) Tox Material Score’;‘Critical By-Product Score’)=(Eco) Tox Process Score
Handling of Data Gaps
Usually big petro-chemical bulk commodities are available on the world market. Due to the highly optimized processes and experience with such suppliers it is assumed that such materials are managed in a safe manor and therefore Supplier Score Social and Supplier Score Environmental will be set to a maximum of 100. A list of related materials can be found here: http://echa.europa.eu/de/information-on-chemicals
If no further certification of environmental performance of supplier is available, a general country rating provided by the World Bank is used to create risk factors related to material handling. Countries with a strong Government Effectiveness/Regulatory Quality and strong Rule of Law receive higher ratings than countries with lower ratings due to their lower inherent risk.
Land Use
Land use for cultivation and production units results in a loss of biodiversity. Also discharges of toxic substances in soil and water cause damage to ecosystems. The scoring is illustrated by the following Scheme: 6
Scheme 6: Scoring
Renewability
Renewability means the use of renewable resources for environmental protection. The scoring is illustrated by the following Scheme 7.
Scheme 6: Scoring
Example SANDRANOL (Only the Renewable C-Atoms are Labelled)
Case 1: The number of C-Atoms of the product equals the sum of the C-Atoms of the reactants:
Case 2: The product has less C-Atoms than the reactants (C-Atoms going into waste or by-product): Expert judgement is needed to allocate the renewable and nonrenewable C-Atoms to product and waste/by-product.
Traceability
Supply Chain transparency and disclosure are essential for the improvement of sustainability throughout the whole value chain. The scoring is illustrated by the following Scheme 8.
Scheme 8: Scoring
Generation of Waste—E-Factor
To assess waste generated by synthesis, the so-called E-factor (environmental factor) is used. It is calculated using this formula: E-factor=kg waste/kg reactants. The scoring is illustrated by the following Scheme 9.
Scheme 9: Scoring
(Reactant based E-Factor+unused Atoms)*(1+Losses)=Overall E-Factor
(10−Overall E-Factor)*10=Waste/E-Factor Score
Exceptions
Waste used as fuel or as fertilizer is considered as waste, because most of the Symrise fragrance raw materials are categorized this way and therefore it's not a differentiator.
Handling of Data Gaps
Usually suppliers prefer to not share process parameter to protect their knowledge. For processing steps with high energy consumptions and material losses (e.g. crystallization and distillation) standard factors related to own manufacturing data and Probas information are used.
Water Consumption and/or Pollution
The availability of water is dependent on water resources on one hand and water removal on the other. If water removal exceeds a certain percentage of resources, we speak of ‘water stress’. ‘Extreme water stress’ applies when the removal exceeds 40% of the resources. The scoring is illustrated by the following Scheme 10.
Scheme 10: Scoring
For big bulk products which are produced in more
and here http://echa.europa.eu/de/
The following chapter shall provide a brief overview how the parameters explained above are calculated. As explained above a lot of indicators and values (such as for example biodegradability or carbon dioxide emissions) can be taken from public data bases. In case not indicated otherwise numbers shall be taken as percent.
The score for biodegradability of the compound or the compounds is evaluated according to OECD Method 301/302 or equivalent.
The score for the overall ecological toxicity S(ETOX) is calculated according to the following equation (3):
S(ETOX)=⅔*MAX(Ma;Pa)+⅓*((Mb*Cb)+(Mz*Cz)) (3)
wherein P stands for the Product Eco Tox Score and S stands for Supplier Performance Score on condition that the formulation contains a to z compounds.
The score for the overall human toxicity S(HTOX) is calculated according to the following equation (4):
S(HTOX)=⅔*MAX(Ma;Pa)+⅓*(Mb*Cb)+(Mz*Cz) (4)
wherein P stands for the Product Human Tox Score and S stands for Supplier Performance Score on condition that the formulation contains a to z compounds.
The score for the overall land use S(LU) is calculated according to the following equation (5):
wherein M stands for the molar mass of a specific compound and D stands for its Land Use on condition that the formulation contains a to z compounds.
The score for the overall renewability S(REN) is calculated according to the following equation (6):
wherein M stands for the count of C atoms of a specific compound, D stands for its Renewability and P stands for C atoms of product of the synthesis on condition that the formulation contains a to z compounds.
The score for the overall traceability S(TRA) is calculated according to the following equation (7):
wherein M stands for the molar mass of a specific compound and D stands for its Traceability on condition that the formulation contains a to z compounds.
The score for the overall waste generation S(WAS) is calculated according to the following equation (8):
wherein:
The score for the overall water consumption S(WAT) is calculated according to the following equation (9):
wherein M stands for the molar mass of a specific compound and D stands for its Traceability on condition that the formulation contains a to z compounds.
In the following the present invention is illustrated by working examples without limiting the invention to them.
Method Description
Fragrance Raw Material Scoring
Product Scoring
The results are consolidated as shown in
The user will receive information about the ratio covered as depicted in Table 5.
A route cause analysis for each scorecard criteria can be conducted via an automatic analysis tool in each product sheet directly as shown in
44_Dihydro Myrcenol (44DHM)
As a first step the synthesis route of 44DHM is evaluated (
44DHM was evaluated according to all 10 scorecard criteria. The score was calculated automatically based on the data inserted. Finally, the overall data was consolidated. The results are shown in Table 6:
The details of the evaluation are shown in
Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind |
---|---|---|---|
PCT/EP2016/052434 | 2/4/2016 | WO | 00 |