This application claims priority of European patent application No. EP20203114.2 filed Oct. 21, 2020, the content of which is hereby incorporated by reference herein in its entirety.
The present invention relates to a method for producing an applique for a timepiece dial. It also relates to the production of a timepiece, in particular a wrist watch, implementing such a production method. It also relates to an applique obtained by such a production method, and to a timepiece per se comprising such an applique.
Appliques formed of two different materials are known in the prior art. Such appliques, which form in particular letters or numbers on a timepiece dial, have an informative function, for example telling the time, but also a decorative function. It is thus essential that such appliques present an impeccable appearance on a dial.
One prior art solution for producing an applique for a timepiece dial composed of two different materials often consists in creating a mold made of the first material, for example a noble metal, and then casting a second liquid material in this mold, which subsequently cures to take on its final appearance. Such a method can achieve satisfactory results but has drawbacks, including the inability to obtain all possible geometries or the most sophisticated types of finish.
Therefore, there is a need for another solution for producing an applique for a timepiece dial. More specifically, the invention seeks to achieve some or all of the following aims.
A first aim of the invention consists in proposing a solution for producing an applique for a timepiece dial in which the production method makes it possible to achieve, in a simple, repeatable manner, an optimal finish in an applique composed of at least two different materials.
A second aim of the invention consists in proposing a solution for producing an applique that can have various three-dimensional shapes.
To this end, the invention is based on a method for producing an applique for a timepiece dial, said applique comprising at least two distinct portions made of a first material and a second material, respectively, said first and second materials being different, wherein the method comprises:
The second phase of machining may comprise a step of routing (or trimming) of the applique blank formed of the first blank made of the first material and the second blank made of the second material, this routing forming at least a portion of the contour of the applique blank.
The invention further relates to an applique for a timepiece dial, comprising a first portion made of a first material and a second portion made of a second material, said first and second materials being different, wherein the applique comprises a fastening device capable of fastening the applique to a dial, in particular a fastening foot, and an upper surface intended to remain on the visible face of said dial, said upper surface having at least a part that is not parallel to the dial to which the applique is intended to be fastened, said upper surface part comprising said two materials in a juxtaposed arrangement, and/or the applique comprises a side comprising said two juxtaposed materials, said side extending in a direction substantially perpendicular to the dial to which the applique is intended to be fastened.
The invention is defined specifically by the claims.
These aims, features and advantages of the present invention will be set out in detail in the following description of particular embodiments, which are not limiting, provided with reference to the attached figures, in which:
For the sake of simplicity in the description, the following terms will be conventionally used: “longitudinal direction” for the direction x along the length of an applique, and “transverse direction” for the perpendicular direction y, the two directions x, y forming a plane which is substantially parallel to a dial, particularly to a dial plate, on which the applique is mounted or intended to be mounted. The vertical direction is the direction z perpendicular to the first two directions x, y, oriented perpendicularly to the dial, particularly to the dial plate. In the case of a curved dial, the direction z may be considered to be oriented perpendicularly to the plane of a dial passing specifically through the periphery of a dial plate.
The adjectives “upper” and “lower” will be used with reference to the abovementioned vertical direction z, the adjective “lower” designating an orientation of the face intended to be positioned facing a movement and the adjective “upper” designating an orientation of the opposite face, in particular the face visible to the wearer. Furthermore, the term “width” will be used to designate a measurement in a transverse direction or a direction y, the term “length” for a measurement in a longitudinal direction or a direction x, and the term “height” for a measurement in a vertical direction or a direction z.
Moreover, the same reference signs will be used to designate identical or equivalent components, adding the symbols ′ and ″ to distinguish the two variants of the second embodiment from one another.
This applique 1 has, overall, a parallelpiped shape, in particular a rectangular parallelepiped shape, delimited by a substantially flat upper surface 3, arranged in a plane parallel to the directions x, y according to the chosen convention, i.e. substantially parallel to a timepiece dial or to a dial plate or to the plane of a timepiece dial or of a dial plate on which the applique is intended to be mounted. It comprises a lower surface 2 intended to be positioned facing a timepiece dial, particularly on a timepiece dial. A fastening device 4 is arranged on this lower surface, taking the form of a foot depending on the embodiment, which projects outward from the applique 1, intended to be positioned in a housing hollowed out in a timepiece dial. Naturally, the fastening device could take any other form, in particular several feet for example. As an alternative, the fastening device could be present on the periphery of the applique. The applique is furthermore delimited by four sides, two long sides 16, 17 along its length (in x-z planes) and two small sides 5, 6 across its width (in y-z planes). A projection of the applique 1 on a plane parallel to the directions x, y in the vertical direction perpendicular to a timepiece dial thus has a rectangular shape. Naturally, as a variant, this shape could be slightly different, for example trapezoidal. In general, this shape may be polygonal. As an alternative, this shape may be curved, in particular rounded or elliptical.
According to this first embodiment, the applique 1 thus comprises two portions 10, 20 made of two different materials. The first portion 10 extends in particular in the lower part of the applique 1, and on the two long sides 16, 17, over the whole length of the applique. The second portion 20 extends in the central part of the upper surface 3, in a groove formed within the first portion 10. It extends over the whole length of the applique 1, and over the whole height of the applique on the small sides 5, 6.
The upper surface 3 is the surface intended to be visible to the wearer of a watch. It thus comprises three parts extending in parallel over its whole length: a central surface 23 made of the second material, arranged between two lateral surfaces 13a, 13b made of the first material. The upper surface of each lateral surface 13a, 13b has an inclined flat surface 18, 19, respectively, forming chamfers joining the plane (oriented x-y) of the upper surface to the plane (oriented x-z) of each long side 16, 17 of the applique 1.
The lower surface 2 comprises parts 22 at the longitudinal ends of the applique 1 made of the second material. It further comprises long sides 16, 17, and a central part 12 including the fastening foot, which is made of the first material.
The long sides 16, 17 are therefore made wholly of the first material. By contrast, the small sides 5, 6 each have a central surface 24, 25 made of the second material, flanked by two lateral surfaces 14a, 14b, 15a, 15b, respectively, made of the first material. These lateral surfaces 14a, 15a and 14b, 15b constitute the ends of the long sides 16, 17, respectively.
The first phase of the method consists in forming at least a second blank 20a made of the second material within or at least partially within a first blank 10a made of the first material, so as to obtain a blank 1a of the applique 1.
Advantageously, this step makes it possible to make several blanks 10a, so as to produce several identical appliques 1 in parallel. As an alternative, this step could make several blanks 10a, so as to produce several different appliques 1 in parallel. According to the embodiment, the various blanks are arranged in a regular arrangement of rows and columns in the plane of the applique, so as to optimize the surface area available.
A fourth step E4 consists in curing (hardening) the second material, in particular by cross-linking. This makes it possible to form a second blank 20a made of the second material. The two blanks 10a, 20a thus form a blank 1a of the applique 1 to be produced.
A second phase, referred to as the machining phase, of the method is then begun.
In this second phase, a fifth routing step E5 consists in simultaneously routing the two blanks 10a, 20a, which makes it possible to form a part of the finished vertical outer surfaces of the applique 1. In particular, this step makes it possible to form a significant part of the long sides 16, 17, in the first material, and a significant part of the small sides 5, 6, which comprise a juxtaposition of the two materials. At the end of this step, a blank la of the applique 1 to be produced is positioned in a cell A1a of the plate P1a, as shown in
A sixth surfacing step E6 makes it possible to form primarily the upper surface of the applique, in particular the lateral inclined surfaces 18, 19. More generally, it produces the final state of this upper surface, by acting on the two juxtaposed materials, thus forming the surfaces 13a, 13b, 23a of the applique 1 described above, as shown in
In a seventh step E7, each cell A1a is filled with a UV adhesive C1a intended to rigidly secure each blank 1a of the applique 1 to the plate P1a for the subsequent steps.
In an eighth step E8, the plate P1a is turned over. Next, in a ninth step E9, the fastening device 4, a foot according to this embodiment, of each of the blanks 1a of the applique 1 is routed, as shown in
A tenth step E10 consists in dissolving the adhesive C1a, so as to detach each applique 1 from the plate P1a.
The rest of the upper surface 3′ takes the form of a substantially flat surface, which is oriented substantially parallel to a dial or to a dial plate or to a plane of a dial or of a dial plate to which the applique is intended to be fastened, like the upper surface 3 of the first embodiment. This will be referred to as the non-inclined surface 3b′.
According to this embodiment, the inclined part 3a′ of the upper surface has a portion which is curved from the non-inclined surface 3b′ of the upper surface 3′, then a substantially flat portion, inclined at an angle α relative to this non-inclined surface 3b′, and relative to the lower surface 2′ of the applique 1′. Preferably, the angle a is between 5° and 80°, or even between 10° and 60°. As mentioned above, the inclined part 3a′ extends over the entire width of the applique: it thus comprises lateral inclined parts 130a′, 130b′ which belong to the lateral surfaces 13a′, 13b′ made of the first material, which flank a central surface 23a′, which belongs to the central surface 23′ made of the second material. In other words, the inclined part 3a′ also comprises the two juxtaposed materials, which form a continuous surface.
Moreover, the first portion 10′ of the applique 1′ comprises inclined surfaces 18′, 19′ at its lateral ends over all of the long sides 16′, 17′ of the applique 1′, forming respectively a junction between the sides 16′, 17′ and the lateral surfaces 13a′, 13b′, as in the first embodiment. These inclined surfaces follow the first slope, mentioned above, of the upper surface 3′. Therefore, they also each comprise two parts, respectively a first part 18a′, 19a′ at the inclined surface 3a′, and a second part 18b′, 19b′ at the non-inclined surface 3b′. The inclined surfaces 18a′, 19a′ thus each have two slopes, relative to a plane x-y and relative to a plane x-z, respectively, which are visible in sections through two planes x-z and y-z, respectively.
In the first variant of the second embodiment which is described, the first portion 10′ of the applique 1′ forms the contour of the applique, i.e. it alone defines the outer periphery of the applique. This is particularly visible when the applique is seen from above, as shown in
Moreover, according to the second embodiment, the applique 1′ no longer has a parallelepiped shape. Its projection in the vertical direction z on a plane x-y is in fact no longer rectangular, but polygonal, in particular symmetrical relative to a longitudinal median axis. As an alternative, this projection could have any other shape. This shape may be curved, in particular rounded or elliptical.
Naturally, the invention according to the second embodiment is not limited to the embodiment described. For example, the second portion 20′ could, as an alternative, form at least partially the contour of the applique. This is already partially the case in the upper part of the inclined part 3a′.
In all of the embodiments of the applique, preferably, the first material of the first portion is a metal alloy, particularly a precious metal alloy such as an alloy of gold or platinum. Preferably, the second material of the second portion is a composite, in particular based on ceramic and/or polymer. This second material comprises, for example, binders and ceramic particles. It may optionally be filled with pigments, luminescent material or another functional material. In the case where this second material is luminescent, the latter may in particular comprise a luminescent zircon.
Naturally, the invention is not limited to the embodiments described. In particular, the inclined surface may be curved, rounded, over all or part of its length and/or its width, and/or comprise one or more flat portions. Thus, in particular, at least a part of the second portion of the applique is inclined relative to a surface parallel to a dial or to a dial plate or to a plane of a dial or of a dial plate to which said applique is intended to be fastened. Furthermore, this slope may be oriented in many directions. Thus, the inclined surface may be parallel to the transverse direction y or to the longitudinal direction x, and not parallel to the other two directions x, z or y, z, respectively. As a variant, the slope is such that the inclined part is oriented in a direction which is neither parallel to the vertical direction z, nor parallel to the longitudinal direction x, nor parallel to the transverse direction y. The upper surface of the applique thus has at least one part that is not parallel to the dial or to the dial plate on which the applique is intended to be fastened.
The applique 1′, 1″ according to the second embodiment is produced in a manner similar to the first embodiment.
The production method for the second embodiment of the applique differs from the method for producing the applique of the first embodiment essentially in terms of the sixth surfacing step E6′, the first steps E1′ to E5′ remaining the same. To be specific, during this sixth surfacing step E6′, the upper surface 3′ of the applique is formed, after a routing step E5′ the outcome of which is shown in
During this sixth surfacing step E6′, an applique blank 1a′ is machined, in particular in a direction z, along a path of the tool and/or of the table supporting the plate P1a′ shown by an arrow F and/or an arrow F′, respectively. To do so, the surfacing step E6′, for the production of an applique 1′ according to the second embodiment, has the particularity that it makes it possible to obtain the upper surface 3′ comprising an inclined part, by removal of the first and second materials in at least longitudinal x and vertical z directions. This results in finished surfaces at the end of this step.
Preferably, this surfacing step E6′ may also comprise a sub-step of chamfering or machining of the inclined surfaces 18′, 19′, as shown in
Dans a seventh step E7′, each cell A1a′ is filled with a UV adhesive C1a intended to rigidly secure each blank 1a′ of an applique 1′ to the plate P1a′ for the subsequent steps.
In an eighth step E8′, the plate P1a′ is turned over. Next, in a ninth step E9′, the fastening device 4′ of each of the blanks 1a′ of the applique 1′ is routed, as shown in
At the end of the ninth step E9′, each applique 1′ thus formed is held in place on the plate P1a′ by virtue of the adhesive C1a. A tenth step E10′ consists in dissolving the adhesive C1a applied during the seventh step E7′, so as to detach the applique or appliques 1′ from the adhesive.
Note that the production of the applique 1″ according to the second variant of the second embodiment will be performed using the same method.
In all cases, the method for producing an applique according to the invention thus comprises a second phase of machining, which comprises in particular a step of machining of each of the two blanks of the applique, so as to modify the shape and/or the surface state of each of the first and second blanks of the applique blank, in particular on its upper surface.
Advantageously, this second phase of machining is mechanical, and comprises in particular a step of cutting the first and second materials of the applique blank using the same cutting tool. As an alternative or in addition, this second phase of machining may comprise a step of abrasion of the first and second materials of the applique blank using the same abrasion tool. In all cases, it involves simultaneous or substantially simultaneous machining of the first and second materials of the applique blank, in the same step using the same tool.
As an alternative or in addition, this second phase of machining may comprise a step of machining of the applique blank by a laser, in particular a femtosecond laser. It thus involves simultaneous or substantially simultaneous machining of the first and second materials of the applique blank, in the same step using the same laser.
The invention also relates to a method for producing a timepiece dial, which comprises implementing the method for producing at least one applique as described above, then a step of fastening said at least one applique to the timepiece dial.
The invention also relates to a method for producing a timepiece, in particular a wrist watch, which comprises implementing the method for producing a timepiece dial of the timepiece as described above.
Lastly, the invention relates to an applique for a timepiece dial produced by a method as described above, comprising at least a first portion made of a first material and a second portion made of a second material, said first and second materials being different, wherein the applique comprises a fastening device capable of fastening the applique to a dial, in particular a fastening foot, and an upper surface intended to remain on the visible face of said dial, said upper surface having at least a part that is not parallel to the dial to which the applique is intended to be fastened, said upper surface part comprising said two materials in a juxtaposed arrangement, and/or the applique comprises a side comprising said two juxtaposed materials, said side extending in a direction substantially perpendicular to the dial to which the applique is intended to be fastened.
The applique may comprise a lower surface on which the fastening device is arranged, and may have a projection, on a plane parallel to said dial to which it is intended to be fastened, of substantially rectangular shape. The applique may comprise four sides substantially perpendicular to said dial connecting the lower surface to the upper surface, these four sides being made integrally of the first material.
The second portion may extend from a first side over substantially the entire length of the applique, indeed over the entire length of the applique as far as a second side, at least on the upper surface of the applique.
The first portion made of the first material may comprise a groove, hollowed out from its upper surface and extending over all or some of the length of the applique, in which the second material forming the second portion is placed.
The upper surface of the applique may comprise a part of the second portion arranged between two parts of the first portion.
The section through a longitudinal-vertical plane and/or the section through a transverse-vertical plane of said part of the upper surface is not parallel to the dial to which the applique is intended to be fastened, and has a shape which is inclined, flat or curved, relative to said dial.
The invention also relates to a timepiece, in particular a wrist watch, and to a dial for a timepiece, which comprises at least one applique as described above.
Number | Date | Country | Kind |
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20203114.2 | Oct 2020 | EP | regional |