Patent Application
20070157665
The present invention relates to settings for gemstones and more specifically to settings that enhance the appearance of the gemstone through reflective light.
Jewelry settings are constructed to retain a gemstone in position and expose the gemstone to light. Diamonds, as one such gemstone, are highly transparent and only reflect a relatively small amount of light from the surface. Diamonds refract, internally reflect and then disperse light in a rainbow of color that uniquely marks the brilliance of each gemstone.
The availability of ambient light is critical for a gemstone to demonstrate its brilliance. Jewelry settings have the drawback, however, that the structure of the setting can block ambient light from being received by the gemstone. This limitation can be a sizable drawback because the brilliance of a given gemstone can depend upon the directional path and quantity of the light that is received, reflected within the gemstone and returned to the viewer. Directed light into a gemstone can at least partially compensate for the flaws or lights losses.
A jewelry setting for a gemstone is needed that is advantageously configured to direct ambient light into the gemstone.
A jewelry setting is described that comprises a gemstone that has a crown and a pavilion. The crown has a center point and a table that defines a plane. The pavilion has a center point and an external wall that includes a plurality of facets. The center points of the gemstone and reflective element define an axis-Y perpendicular to plane-X.
The jewelry setting retains the gemstone in position and is connected to a piece of jewelry. A reflective element includes a base and a tapered portion. The base has a center point and is attached to the setting. The tapered portion includes a center point and an apex. The center points of the reflective element are aligned with the axis-Y. The tapered portion has an external wall that is sloped from the base to the apex. The tapered portion includes a plurality of facets.
The reflective element of the jewelry setting can be a diamond. The diamond has a rose cut in one preferred embodiment. The reflective element can also be made from a metal and is preferably a precious or a semi-precious metal.
The jewelry setting includes a head and the reflective element is connected to the head. The pavilion external wall defines a first angle with axis-Y and the external wall of the reflective element defines a second angle with axis-Y that is less than the first angle.
A setting for a piece of jewelry that comprises a gemstone and a setting. The gemstone has a crown and a pavilion. The crown has a center point and a table that defines a plane. The pavilion has a center point and a plurality of facets. The center points define an axis-Y perpendicular to the table. The setting retains the gemstone in position.
Reflective means is connected to the setting and includes at least one external wall that has a plurality of facets. The facets are angled for the direction of light from the reflective means to the pavilion of the gemstone. The reflective means defines a central point aligned with the axis-Y.
The external wall of the reflective means defines a first angle with the axis-Y and the pavilion of the gemstone has an external wall that defines a second angle with the axis-Y. The first angle of the external wall of the reflective element is less than the second angle of the external wall of the pavilion of the gemstone.
The reflective means is at least one of a diamond or a metal. In one preferred embodiment, the reflective means is a rose cut diamond. The external wall of the diamond extends between a base and an apex and defines an angle with axis-Y. The external wall of the diamond can define a first angle that extends from the base and a second angle that extends from the first angle to the apex. The reflective means includes a plurality of reflective elements arranged around a central point aligned with axis-Y.
A method of directing light from a reflective element to a gemstone of a jewelry setting comprising the steps of aligning the center points of a reflective element and the center points of a gemstone along a central axis. The reflective element and gemstone are connected to a jewelry setting. The reflective element is positioned on the setting for the directing of ambient light from the reflective element to a pavilion of the gemstone to enhance the appearance of the gemstone.
The step of directing includes reflecting ambient light off of an external wall of the reflective element to the gemstone. The step of directing can also include reflecting light from within the reflective element to the gemstone. The step of directing can also include refracting light from the within the reflective element to the gemstone.
The above and other objects and the attendant advantages will become readily apparent by reference to the following detailed description when considered in conjunction with the accompanying drawings wherein:
Referring initially to
A reflective element 30 includes a base 31 and a tapered portion 32. Base 31 is connected to head 23 of setting 20. Tapered portion 32 has an external wall that extends from base 31 to an apex 34. Base 31 and apex 34 each define a center point. The external wall of tapered portion 32 include a plurality facets 35.
As shown in
Gemstone or diamond 40 has a crown 41 and a pavilion 43. Crown 41 has a center point 42 and preferably has a table that defines a plane-X. Pavilion 43 defines a center point 44 that is also a cutlet in this preferred embodiment. Center points 42 and 44 define an axis-Y that is perpendicular to plane-X. The center points of base 31 and apex 34 are aligned with axis-Y.
The external wall of pavilion 43 includes a plurality of facets 45. Apex 34 and cutlet 44 are preferably faceted, but can also be points without facets. In one preferred embodiment, facets 45 and facets 35 are aligned and parallel to axis-Y.
Referring now to
In one preferred embodiment, reflective element 30 is a diamond that has a rose cut that can receive ambient light 50 and then direct light 51 from element 30 in the direction of pavilion 43. Light 50 is shown as being directed from an external source of ambient white light, but light 50 can be derived from a leakage of gemstone 40 and/or a reflection from the external wall of gemstone 40. Light 52 shows a lesser portion of light 50 that is undesirably reflected and lost to from reflective element 30. Base 31 adjoins a polished portion of setting 20 that provides a high degree of reflection for light 50 with reflective element 30.
In a substantial portion of the angles of incidence of light 50 with diamonds such as reflective element 30 and gemstone 40, light 50 refracts, is reflected within and then refracts again as it passes from the diamond. This phenomenon advantageously assists in both the directing of light 50 from element 30 towards gemstone 40 and the reception of light 51 by gemstone 40 from element 30. This is due to the high degree of transparency and the cuts of diamonds 40 that are constructed to pass the light inward, reflect and then pass the light outward for viewing. Only a small portion of the ambient light reflects off the external wall surfaces.
The uniform slope of the external wall of tapered portion 32 results in a substantial portion of the downwardly directed ambient white light 50 passing through facets 35 (see
Diamond 40 can also have leakages of light 53 that are received by reflective element 30 refracted, reflected and returned as reflected light 54.
In an alternative embodiment of reflective element 30, the slope of facets 35 change at a predetermined point along the external wall into two different sloped portions. In this embodiment, the external wall of tapered portion 32 has a first slope angle-A′ with axis-Y that adjoins base 31 and a second slope angle-A″ with axis-Y that connects to the first slope and adjoins apex 34. Light 51 will then be dispersed from reflective element 30 as a spectrum of colors when the light enters and exits through the different sloped portions. This dispersed light can be directed into gemstone 40 increasing the brilliance of the gemstone.
In another alternative embodiment, when gemstone 40 has an emerald, marquis or oval cut with axes of different length, for example, reflective element 30 can be elongate and have an extended axis preferably parallel to plane-X that is aligned with the longitudinal axis, or axis of greatest length. Alternatively, multiple reflective elements 30 can be aligned with the longitudinal axis of gemstone 40. A plurality of reflective elements 30 can also be arranged such that elements 30 define a central point aligned with axis-Y. It is understood that the actual cut, arrangement and/or shape of the one or more reflective elements 30 is dependent upon the desired application and the requirements for additional light and/or brilliance of a given gemstone or gemstone arrangement 40. When reflective element 30 is an arrangement of a plurality of individual reflective elements, the reflective elements are preferably arranged on setting 20 to define a collective central point that is aligned with the axis-Y.
In yet another alternative embodiment, reflective element 30 can also be a purely reflective device that directs light 50′ towards gemstone 40 from the surface of the external wall of tapered portion 32 as reflected light 55. In this preferred embodiment reflective element 30 can be monolithically formed as part of setting 20, band 15 or a separate element 30. Reflective element 30 in this embodiment is preferably made of metal such as a precious or semi-precious metal and has a polished finish. Reflective element 30, however, can be made of any material that can direct reflected light into gemstone 40 such as a mirror, simulated diamond as well as polished metal.
Although the illustrative embodiments of the present invention have been described herein with reference to the accompanying drawings, it is to be understood that the disclosure is not limited to those specific embodiments and that various other changes and modifications may be affected therein by one skilled in the art without departing from the scope or spirit from the disclosure. For example, reflective element 30 as a diamond can be any shape or cut such as a pavilion or crown portion from a brilliant cut diamond. Similarly, while gemstone retaining device 21 is preferably a prong type setting, it can be any kind of gemstone setting to include, for example, a bezel, a channel or an invisible type setting. All such changes and modifications are included within the scope of the invention as defined by the appended claims.
