Patent Application
20200375860
The present disclosure relates to an oxidising agent that is gentle to hair for oxidative hair dyeing or bleaching, and to a gentle method for oxidative hair dyeing or bleaching, in which keratin fibres are protected against oxidative influences and/or oxidative hair damage is repaired.
In the field of oxidative dyeing or bleaching of hair, there is the problem that damage can be caused to the keratin fibres on account of the aggressive agents. In particular, the natural hydrophobicity of the keratin fibres is reduced since the colourants or lightening agents must firstly make the hair penetrable in order to be able to exert their effect. The water-repelling effect, however, on the one hand constitutes natural protection of the hair, and on the other hand parameters desired by the consumer, such as shine, silkiness, feel and “fall” of the hair, are closely linked thereto.
In order to overcome the aforesaid disadvantages, what are known as pretreatment agents are available on the market and are intended to protect the hair against the aggressive influence. These agents, however, often weigh down the hair or hinder the success of the lightening or dyeing of the hair occurring subsequently; in particular the fastness of the dyeing to washing can be compromised by the pretreatment agents. Numerous post-treatment agents are also known that may be employed to repair the hair damage caused during the oxidative colouring treatment. All of these methods, however, require a multi-stage application method, precisely an application of a further hair treatment agent either before or after the dyeing. This is often perceived to be annoying by the consumer, since the oxidative dyeing treatment itself is already very complex with a number of process steps and a reaction time of up to about 60 minutes.
Oxidative colourant or bleaching agents for keratin fibres and methods for oxidative dyeing and/or lightening of keratin fibres are provided herein. In an embodiment, an oxidative colourant or bleaching agent for keratin fibres includes:
in which
In another embodiment, a method for oxidative dyeing and/or lightening of keratin fibres includes the following method steps:
in which
wherein
wherein
wherein
in which
In another embodiment, a composition (A) includes:
in which
in which
The following detailed description is merely exemplary in nature and is not intended to limit the disclosure or the application and uses of the subject matter as described herein. Furthermore, there is no intention to be bound by any theory presented in the preceding background or the following detailed description.
The object of the present disclosure was to provide an agent and a method for oxidative dyeing of hair with a hair-protecting treatment which overcomes the aforesaid disadvantages without negatively influencing the colour result of the oxidative dyeing treatment. Here, in particular a colourant and a method should be provided, in which the hair is not weighed down and minimal damage to the hair occurs. Furthermore, the attained hair protection where possible should be hardly time-consuming and should be performed together with the dyeing step itself, where possible.
The use of dicarboxylic acids such as maleic acid or succinic acid is prior art in the field of hair care. These acids are already used in shampoos and in particular in conditioners in order to exert nourishing effects there. Patent application WO 2005/115314A1 thus discloses a method for restructuring keratin fibres, in which the keratin fibres are brought into contact with cystine and with at least one dicarboxylic acid having from about 2 to about 10 carbon atoms, wherein preferred dicarboxylic acids are selected from oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, azelaic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid and sorbic acid, and succinic acid is particularly preferred. Patent application DE 10051774 A1 describes the use of short-chain carboxylic acids having a molecular weight of less than 750 g/mol in cosmetic agents as an active substance for the restructuring of keratin fibres. Patent application EP1174112A discloses hair treatment agents which, besides an organic acid, as further mandatory constituents also contain an organic solvent, a cationic surfactant, and a higher alcohol and are used to repair pores in hair.
Oxidative hair dyeing or bleaching kits which comprise an aqueous hydrogen peroxide preparation containing maleic acid are disclosed in the Mintel database under entry numbers 529647, 2061070, 743114, 1431193 and 406342. None of these hydrogen peroxide preparations contain an amino acid.
It has now been found that oxidative treatment agents which, besides typical constituents, such as hydrogen peroxide and water, also contain at least one dicarboxylic acid having from about 2 to about 10 carbon atoms and at least one amino acid, preferably at least one amino acid of formula (VI), lead to significantly improved hair protection with the oxidative hair treatment, without the results of the oxidative dyeing or bleaching treatment being compromised. It has now surprisingly been found that, due to the content of at least one dicarboxylic acid having from about 2 to about 10 carbon atoms in combination with at least one amino acid, preferably at least one amino acid of formula (VI), the hair is protected during the dyeing and/or lightening against damage by the high pH of the agent and by the oxidising agent. This could be determined, inter alia, on the basis of the fact that, during the subsequent combing, less hair breakage occurred and the hair lost less elasticity, as determined by stress-strain measurements, than after the application of colourants and bleaching agents not as contemplated herein.
In a first embodiment the subject matter of the present disclosure is an oxidative treatment agent for keratin fibres, in particular for human hair, containing
A further subject of the disclosure is a method for the oxidative dyeing and/or lightening of keratin fibres, in particular human hair, in which an oxidative treatment agent is applied to the keratin fibres, in particular to the human hair, and optionally is rinsed out again after a reaction time of from about 0.1 to about 60 minutes, preferably from about 1 to about 50 minutes, particularly preferably from about 10 to about 45 minutes, exceptionally preferably from about 30 to about 45 minutes, wherein this treatment agent contains
A further subject of the present disclosure is a method for the oxidative dyeing and/or lightening of keratin fibres, in particular of human hair, said method comprising the following method steps:
in which
wherein
wherein
wherein
in which
in which:
Keratinous fibres, keratin-containing fibres, or keratin fibres are understood to mean preferably human hair, but also fur, wool and feathers.
The term “directly thereafter” is understood as contemplated herein to mean within a period of from about 1 to about 600 seconds.
Dicarboxylic Acids Having From About 1 to About 10 Carbon Atoms and/or At Least One Salt of This Acid/These Acids
Dicarboxylic acids having from about 2 to about 10 carbon atoms that are preferred as contemplated herein are selected from malic acid, D-tartaric acid, L-tartaric acid, meso-tartaric acid, racemic acid, alpha-ketoglutaric acid, beta-ketoglutaric acid, and oxaloacetic acid, and mixtures of these acids. A selection is made particularly preferably as contemplated herein from malic acid, D-tartaric acid, L-tartaric acid, meso-tartaric acid, racemic acid and mixtures of these acids. Malic acid is exceptionally preferred as contemplated herein. The stated dicarboxylic acids make an essential contribution to the reduced hair damage effectuated by the treatment agent as contemplated herein.
Depending on the pH value of the oxidative treatment agent as contemplated herein or of the composition (B) used in one of the dyeing or bleaching methods as contemplated herein, the at least one dicarboxylic acid having from about 2 to about 10 carbon atoms can be present as an undissociated acid, partially dissociated acid or fully dissociated acid. If the at least one dicarboxylic acid having from about 2 to about 10 carbon atoms is present in partially dissociated or fully dissociated form, the counter ion is thus selected from physiologically compatible cations, in particular such as the alkali metal ions, earth alkaline metal ions and zinc ions, as well as ammonium ions, alkylammonium ions, alkanolammonium ions, and glucammonium ions, in particular the mono-, di- and trimethyl-, -ethyl- and -hydroxyethylammonium ions. The salts of the dicarboxylic acids having from about 2 to about 10 carbon atoms with amino-C1-C6 alkanols, in particular with monoethanolamine, and amino-C1-C6 alkane diols, in particular with 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1,3-diol, 2-aminopropan-l-ol, 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol (MIPA) and 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)propan-1,3-diol (TRIS) are likewise preferred, wherein the salts with monoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol and 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1,3-diol are particularly preferred.
Sodium, potassium, magnesium, ammonium and monoethanolammonium ions are exceptionally preferred as counter ions for the partially or fully dissociated dicarboxylic acids having from about 2 to about 10 carbon atoms. In addition, however, dicarboxylic acids which are neutralised with amino acids that react in an alkaline manner, such as arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine, and which have from about 2 to about 10 carbon atoms can also be used.
The sodium, potassium, ammonium, monoethanolamine, lysine and arginine salts and mixtures thereof are preferred salts of the dicarboxylic acids having from about 2 to about 10 carbon atoms.
Preferred treatment agents as contemplated herein contain the at least one dicarboxylic acid having from about 2 to about 10 carbon atoms, selected from malic acid, D-tartaric acid, L-tartaric acid, meso-tartaric acid, racemic acid, alpha-ketoglutaric acid, beta-ketoglutaric acid and oxaloacetic acid, or one or more salts hereof in a total amount of from about 0.2 to about 4% by weight, preferably from about 0.33 to about 3% by weight, particularly preferably from about 0.5 to about 2% by weight, in each case converted to the undissociated dicarboxylic acid and based on the weight of the treatment agent.
Even if the dicarboxylic acids are present in salt form, the above amount values relates to the particular dicarboxylic acid in undissociated form, so as not to falsify the stated value by different molecular weights of the salts.
Amino Acids
The reduced hair damage effect of the treatment agents as contemplated herein can be attributed in essence to the at least aforementioned dicarboxylic acid in cooperation with at least one amino acid.
The treatment agents as contemplated herein therefore contain at least one amino acid as further obligatory component. Preferred amino acids are selected from arginine, lysine, histidine, asparagine, glutamine, cysteine, methionine, tryptophan, serine, alanine, aspartic acid, glutaminic acid, glycine, isoleucine, leucine, phenylalanine, proline, threonine, tyrosine, and valine, and mixtures of these amino acids. Further oxidative treatment agents that are preferred as contemplated herein contain at least one amino acid in a total amount of from about 0.05 to about 3% by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 2% by weight, particularly preferably from about 0.2 to about 1.2% by weight, in each case converted to the undissociated acid and based on the weight of the oxidative treatment agent. Further oxidative treatment agents that are preferred as contemplated herein contain at least one amino acid selected from arginine, lysine, histidine, asparagine, glutamine, cysteine, methionine, tryptophan, serine, alanine, aspartic acid, glutaminic acid, glycine, isoleucine, leucine, phenylalanine, proline, threonine, tyrosine, and valine, and mixtures of these amino acids in a total amount of from about 0.05 to about 3% by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 2% by weight, particularly preferably from about 0.2 to about 1.2% by weight, in each case converted to the undissociated amino acid and based on the weight of the oxidative treatment agent.
Amino Acid of Formula (VI)
A particularly heavily reduced hair damage effect of the treatment agent as contemplated herein can be attributed in essence to the aforementioned dicarboxylic acids in cooperation with at least one selected amino acid of formula (VI).
Preferred oxidative treatment agents as contemplated herein therefore contain at least one amino acid of formula (VI) as obligatory component
in which
Preferred amino acids of formula (VI) are selected from arginine, lysine, histidine, asparagine, glutamine, cysteine, methionine, tryptophan and mixtures hereof. Particularly preferred oxidative treatment agents contain mixtures of arginine and lysine or at least one salt of these amino acids.
Oxidative treatment agents that are preferred as contemplated herein contain the at least one amino acid of formula (VI) or one or more salts hereof in a total amount of from about 0.05 to about 3% by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 2% by weight, particularly preferably from about 0.2 to about 1.2% by weight, in each case converted to the undissociated amino acid and based on the weight of the treatment agent. Further treatment agents that are particularly preferred as contemplated herein contain mixtures of arginine and lysine or at least one salt of these amino acids in a total amount of from about 0.05 to about 3% by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 2% by weight, particularly preferably from about 0.2 to about 1.2% by weight, in each case converted to the undissociated amino acid and based on the weight of the treatment agent.
Hydrogen Peroxide
The formation of the dyes in oxidative colourants or the breakdown of the hair's own pigment melanin for bleaching is brought about firstly by the influence of a peroxide compound as oxidising agent. Hydrogen peroxide is usually used for this purpose. The use of hydrogen peroxide can be implemented merely in the form of an aqueous solution.
Oxidative treatment agents that are preferred as contemplated herein are exemplified in that they contain from about 0.5 to about 13% by weight, more preferably from about 1 to about 7% by weight, particularly preferably from about 2 to about 6% by weight, and very particularly preferably from about 3 to about 4.5% by weight of hydrogen peroxide (calculated as 100% H2O2), in each case based on the total weight of the oxidative treatment agent as contemplated herein.
Bleaching agents or colourants that have a particularly strong lightening effect can additionally contain heavily oxidising peroxide compounds, such as potassium, sodium and/or ammonium persulfate and/or sodium percarbonate.
Water
The oxidative treatment agents as contemplated herein contain water, more specifically preferably in an amount of from about 20 to about 95% by weight, preferably from about 30 to about 90% by weight, particularly preferably from about 40 to about 85% by weight, exceptionally preferably from about 50 to about 80% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the oxidative treatment agent as contemplated herein.
pH Value
Oxidative treatment agents as contemplated herein have a pH value in the range of from about 2.5 to about 6.5, preferably in the range of from about 3 to about 5.5, particularly preferably in the range of from about 3.5 to about 5.0, in each case measured at 20° C.
Chelating gent
The effect as contemplated herein can be increased surprisingly if the oxidative treatment agent contains at least one chelating agent. In accordance with the present disclosure a chelating agent is understood to mean a compound that forms chelates in aqueous solution with calcium ions or magnesium ions. Chelates are understood as contemplated herein to mean cyclic compounds in which metal ions, and also groupings having lonesome electrode pairs or having electrode gaps, and also hydrogen are involved in the ring formation.
Chelating agents that are preferred as contemplated herein have a molar mass of from about 100 g/mol to about 600 g/mol. Further chelating agents that are preferred as contemplated herein are selected from pyridine-2,6-dicarboxylic acid (dipicolinic acid), 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid (HEDP, etidronic acid) and the sodium, potassium and ammonium salts thereof, disodiumpyrophosphate, beta-alanindiacetic acid, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and the sodium, potassium and ammonium salts thereof, aminotrimethylenphosphonic acid, diethylenetriamine pentamethylene phosphonic acid, disodium azacyclo heptane diphosphonate, disodiumhydroxyethylamino bismethylphosphonate, disodiumhydroxyethylimino diacetate, hydroxyethylethylenediaminetriacetic acid (HEDTA) and the sodium or potassium salts thereof, pentapotassium triphosphate, pentasodium triphosphate, pentasodium amino trimethylene phosphonate, pentasodium ethylenediamine tetramethylene phosphonate, pentasodium diethylenetriamine pentaacetate (pentasodium pentetate), diethylenetriamine pentaacetic acid (pentetic acid), phosphonobutane tricarboxylic acid, potassium ethylenediamine tetramethylene phosphonate (potassium EDTMP), sodium ethylenediamine tetramethylene phosphonate (sodium EDTMP), sodium diethylenetriamine pentamethylene phosphonate (sodium DTPMP), sodium hexametaphosphate, tetrapotassium pyrophosphate, tetrasodium pyrophosphate, tetrasodium dicarboxymethyl aspartate, tetrasodium iminodisuccinate, trisodium dicarboxymethyl alaninate, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate (trisodium EDDS) and trisodium nitrilotriacetate and mixtures of these chelating agents.
Chelating agents that are particularly preferred as contemplated herein are selected from pyridine-2,6-dicarboxylic acid (dipicolinic acid), 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid (HEDP, etidronic acid) and the sodium, potassium and ammonium salts thereof, disodiumpyrophosphate, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and the potassium and ammonium salts thereof, pentasodium diethylenetriamine pentaacetate (pentasodium pentetate), tetrasodium pyrophosphate, trisodium ethylene diamine disuccinate (trisodium EDDS) and mixtures of these chelating agents.
Oxidative treatment agents that are particularly preferred as contemplated herein contain at least one chelating agent in a total amount of from about 0.01 to about 2.5% by weight, preferably in a total amount of from about 0.1 to about 1.5% by weight, particularly preferably in a total amount of from about 0.2 to about 0.6% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative treatment agent.
It has also surprisingly been found that the reduced hair damage effect of the oxidative treatment agents as contemplated herein and of the oxidative treatment agents that are preferred as contemplated herein can be further supported if at least one compound of general formula (III) is contained.
Oxidative treatment agents that are preferred as contemplated herein therefore contain
wherein
wherein
wherein
The essential ingredient (a) of formula (III) is the Bunte salt of an amino acid, an oligopeptide, or a peptide that constitutes a compound of formula (III),
wherein
wherein
wherein
The group R1 can stand either for a hydrogen atom or for a structural element of formula (IV)
The structural element of formula (IV) is further exemplified by the repetition index x, wherein x stands for an integer from about 1 to about 100. The repetition x indicates how many structural elements of formula (IV) are contained in the compound of formula (III).
Preferably, x stands for an integer from about 1 to about 50, more preferably x stands for an integer from about 1 to about 20, and very particularly preferably x stands for an integer from about 1 to about 10.
If x for example stands for the number 10, the compound of formula (III) stands for about 10 structural elements of formula (IV).
Here, the group R2 in each of the structural elements of formula (IV) can be selected in each case independently of the previous structural element of formula (IV), If the compounds of formula (III) for example contain about 10 structural units of formula (IV), these 10 structural units can thus be the same or also different.
R2 stands for a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, an isopropyl group, a 2-methylpropyl group, a 1-methyl-propyl group, a benzyl group, a 4-hydroxybenzyl group, a hydroxymethyl group, 1-hydroxyethyl group, a 4-aminobutyl group, a 3-carbamimidamidopropyl group, a 2-carboxyethyl group, a carboxymethyl group, a 2-carbamoylethyl group, a carbamoylmethyl group, a sulfanylmethyl group, a 2-(methylsulfanyl)ethyl group, a 1H-imidazol-4-ylmethyl group, a 1H-indol-3-ylmethyl group or a (sulfosulfanyl)methyl group.
The structural element of formula (IV) is thus an amino acid that is linked peptidically via its amino and/or or its acid function within the compound of formula (III). If the amino acid is cysteine, this can also be present in the form of a Bunte salt.
If the group R2 stands for a hydrogen atom, the structural element of formula (IV) is thus based on the amino acid glycine.
If the group R2 stands for a methyl group, the structural element of formula (IV) is thus based on the amino acid alanine.
If the group R2 stands for an isopropyl group (i.e. a group (H3C)2CH—), the structural element of formula (IV) is thus based on the amino acid valine.
If the group R2 stands for a methylpropyl group (i.e. a group (H3C)2CH—CH2—), the structural element of formula (IV) is thus based on the amino acid leucine.
If the group R2 stands for a 1-methylpropyl group (i.e. a group H3C—CH2—CH(CH3)—), the structural element of formula (IV) is thus based on the amino acid isoleucine.
If the group R2 stands for a benzyl group (i.e. a group C6H5—CH2—), the structural element of formula (IV) is thus based on the amino acid phenylalanine.
If the group R2 stands for a 4-hydroxybenzyl group (i.e. a group 4-OH—C6H5—CH2—), the structural element of formula (IV) is thus based on the amino acid tyrosine.
If the group R2 stands for a hydroxymethyl group (i.e. a group HO—CH2—), the structural element of formula (IV) is thus based on the amino acid serine.
If the group R2 stands for a 1-hydroxyethyl group (i.e. a group H3C—CH(OH)—), the structural element of formula (IV) is thus based on the amino acid threonine.
If the group R2 stands for a 4-aminobutyl group (i.e. a group H2N—CH2—CH2—CH2—CH2—), the structural element of formula (IV) is thus based on the amino acid lysine.
If the group R2 stands for a 3-carbamimidamidopropyl group (i.e. a group H2N—C(NH)—NH—CH2—CH2—CH2—), the structural element of formula (IV) is thus based on the amino acid arginine.
If the group R2 stands for a 2-carboxyethyl group (i.e. a group HOOC—CH2—CH2—), the structural element of formula (IV) is thus based on the amino acid glutaminic acid.
If the group R2 stands for a 2-carboxymethyl group (i.e. a group HOOC—CH2—), the structural element of formula (IV) is thus based on the amino acid aspartic acid.
If the group R2 stands for a 2-carbamoylethyl group (i.e. a group H2N—C(O)—CH2—CH2—), the structural element of formula (IV) is thus based on the amino acid glutamine.
If the group R2 stands for a carbamoylmethyl group (i.e. a group H2N—C(O)—CH2—), the structural element of formula (IV) is thus based on the amino acid asparagine.
If the group R2 stands for a sulfanylmethyl group (i.e. a group HS—CH2—), the structural element of formula (IV) is thus based on the amino acid cysteine.
If the group R2 stands for a 2-(methylsulfanyl)ethyl group (i.e. a group H3C—S—CH2—CH2—), the structural element of formula (IV) is thus based on the amino acid methionine.
If the group R2 stands for a 1H-imidazol-4-ylmethyl group, the structural element of formula (IV) is thus based on the amino acid histidine.
If the group R2 stands for a 1H-indol-3-ylmethyl group, the structural element of formula (IV) is thus based on the amino acid tryptophan.
Lastly, the group R2 can also stand for a (sulfosulfanyl)methyl group, and in this case is a Bunte salt structure of formula HO—S(O2)—S—CH2—.
Depending on the pH value of the treatment agent, the Bunte salt structure of formula HO—S(O2)—S—CH2— can also be present in its deprotonated form.
Within the compound of formula (III), M1 stands for the grouping —OM2 or for a structural element of formula (V)
The structural element of formula (IV) is exemplified by the repetition index y, wherein y stands for an integer from about 1 to about 100. The repetition y indicates how many structural elements of formula (V) are contained in the compound of formula (III).
Preferably, y stands for an integer from about 1 to about 50, more preferably y stands for an integer from about 1 to about 20, and very particularly preferably y stands for an integer from about 1 to about 10.
If y for example stands for the number 10, the compound of formula (III) stands for about 10 structural elements of formula (V).
Here it is essential that the group R3 in each of the structural elements of formula (V) can be selected in each case independently of the previous structural element of formula (V), If the compounds of formula (III) for example contain about 10 structural units of formula (IV), these 10 structural units can thus be the same or also different.
R3 stands for a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, an isopropyl group, a 2-methylpropyl group, a 1-methyl-propyl group, a benzyl group, a 4-hydroxybenzyl group, a hydroxymethyl group, 1-hydroxyethyl group, a 4-aminobutyl group, a 3-carbamimidamidopropyl group, a 2-carboxyethyl group, a carboxymethyl group, a 2-carbamoylethyl group, a carbamoylmethyl group, a sulfanylmethyl group, a 2-(methylsulfanyl)ethyl group, a 1H-imidazol-4-ylmethyl group, a 1H-indol-3-ylmethyl group or a (sulfosulfanyl)methyl group.
The structural element of formula (V) is thus also an amino acid that is linked peptidically vis its amino and/or its acid function within the compound of formula (III). If the amino acid is cysteine, this can also be present in the form of a Bunte salt.
If the group R3 stands for a hydrogen atom, the structural element of formula (IV) is thus based on the amino acid glycine.
If the group R3 stands for a methyl group, the structural element of formula (IV) is thus based on the amino acid alanine.
If the group R3 stands for an isopropyl group (i.e. a group (H3C)2CH—), the structural element of formula (IV) is thus based on the amino acid valine.
If the group R3 stands for a methylpropyl group (i.e. a group (H3C)2CH—CH2—), the structural element of formula (IV) is thus based on the amino acid leucine.
If the group R3 stands for a 1-methylpropyl group (i.e. a group H3C—CH2—CH(CH3)—), the structural element of formula (IV) is thus based on the amino acid isoleucine.
If the group R3 stands for a benzyl group (i.e. a group C6H5—CH2—), the structural element of formula (IV) is thus based on the amino acid phenylalanine.
If the group R3 stands for a 4-hydroxybenzyl group (i.e. a group 4OH—C6H5—CH2—), the structural element of formula (IV) is thus based on the amino acid tyrosine.
If the group R3 stands for a hydroxymethyl group (i.e. a group HO—CH2—), the structural element of formula (IV) is thus based on the amino acid serine.
If the group R3 stands for a 1-hydroxyethyl group (i.e. a group H3C—CH(OH)—), the structural element of formula (IV) is thus based on the amino acid threonine.
If the group R3 stands for a 4-aminobutyl group (i.e. a group H2N—CH2—CH2—CH2—CH2—), the structural element of formula (IV) is thus based on the amino acid lysine.
If the group R3 stands for a 3-carbamimidamidopropyl group (i.e. a group H2N—C(NH)—NH—CH2—CH2—CH2—), the structural element of formula (IV) is thus based on the amino acid arginine.
If the group R3 stands for a 2-carboxyethyl group (i.e. a group HOOC—CH2—CH2—), the structural element of formula (IV) is thus based on the amino acid glutaminic acid.
If the group R3 stands for a 2-carboxymethyl group (i.e. a group HOOC—CH2—), the structural element of formula (IV) is thus based on the amino acid aspartic acid.
If the group R3 stands for a 2-carbamoylethyl group (i.e. a group H2N—C(O)—CH2—CH2—), the structural element of formula (IV) is thus based on the amino acid glutamine.
If the group R3 stands for a carbamoylmethyl group (i.e. a group H2N—C(O)—CH2—), the structural element of formula (IV) is thus based on the amino acid asparagine.
If the group R3 stands for a 2-carboxymethyl group (i.e. a group HS—CH2—), the structural element of formula (IV) is thus based on the amino acid aspartic acid.
If the group R3 stands for a 2-(methylsulfanyl)ethyl group (i.e. a group H3C—S—CH2—CH2—), the structural element of formula (IV) is thus based on the amino acid methionine.
If the group R3 stands for a 1H-imidazol-4-ylmethyl group, the structural element of formula (IV) is thus based on the amino acid histidine.
If the group R3 stands for a 1H-indol-3-ylmethyl group, the structural element of formula (IV) is thus based on the amino acid tryptophan.
Lastly, the group R3 can also stand for a (sulfosulfanyl)methyl group, and in this case is a Bunte salt structure of formula HO—S(O2)—S—CH2—.
Depending on the pH value of the treatment agent, the Bunte salt structure of formula HO—S(O2)—S—CH2— can also be present in its deprotonated form.
The group M2 stands for a hydrogen atom, an equivalent of a monovalent or polyvalent cation, or an ammonium ion (NH4)+.
Preferred equivalents of a monovalent or polyvalent cation can be, in particular, the cations of sodium and potassium (Na+ or K+) or also magnesium or calcium (½ Mg2+ or ½ Ca2+).
If M2 stands for a hydrogen atom, the grouping —OM2 is thus the grouping —OH. If M2 stands for a sodium cation, the grouping —OM2 is thus the grouping —ONa. If M2 stands for a potassium cation, the grouping —OM2 is thus the grouping —OK. If M2 stands for an ammonium cation, the grouping —OM2 is thus the grouping —O(NH4).
The grouping —OM2 is always adjacent to a carbonyl group. On the whole, if M2 stands for H, K, Na or ammonium, it is therefore present in the compound of formula (III) in the form of an acid in its protonated form, or in the form of the sodium, potassium or ammonium salt of this acid.
The compounds of formula (III) as contemplated herein are either the Bunte salt of the amino acid cysteine, the Bunte salt of oligopeptides, or the Bunte salt of peptides.
If the group R1 stands for a hydrogen atom and the group M1 stands for a grouping —OM2, the compound of formula (III) is the Bunte salt of the amino acid cysteine. In this case the compound of formula (III) is the compound of formula (IIIa),
wherein M2 is again defined as described previously.
If the compound of formula (IIIa) is present in the form of its free acid, it is thus 2-amino-3-(sulfosulfanyl)propanoic acid. This substance is commercially available.
It has been found that the use of the compound of formula (IIIa) in treatment agents leads to a particularly effective reduction of hair damage even at particularly small use amounts, with said reduction of hair damage still being present even after repeated hair washing. The use of compounds of formula (IIIa) in treatment agents is therefore very particularly preferred.
In a very particularly preferred embodiment an oxidative treatment agent as contemplated herein contains at least one compound of formula (III), wherein
If a compound of formula (IIIa) is used, this preferably means the use of this specific compound. If, however, the Bunte salts of oligopeptides are used as compounds of formula (III), the treatment agent as contemplated herein can thus also contain a number of compounds of formula (III) as a mixture of various oligopeptides. These oligopeptides are defined by their mean molecular weight. The mean molecular weight Mw of the at least one oligopeptide of formula (III) can be determined for example by gel permeation chromatography (GPC) with polystyrene as internal standard according to DIN 55672-3, Version 8/2007.
Depending on how many structural elements of formula (III) and/or (IV) are contained in the compound of formula (III), and depending on the type of these amino acids, the molecular weight of the compound of formula (III) used as contemplated herein can vary. It is particularly preferred as contemplated herein if the compound of formula (III) is an oligopeptide which has a molecular weight Mw of from about 200 to about 2,000 Da, preferably from about 250 to about 1,500 Da, preferably from about 300 to about 1,200 Da, in particular from about 400 to about 800 Da.
The term “oligopeptide” within the scope of the present disclosure is understood to mean condensation products of amino acids which have the above-mentioned molecular weights.
In a very particularly preferred embodiment, an oxidative treatment agent as contemplated herein contains at least one compound of formula (III) which has a molecular weight Mw of from about 200 to about 2,000 Da (dalton), preferably from about 250 to about 1,500 Da, preferably from about 300 to about 1,200 Da, in particular from about 400 to about 800 Da.
If a mixture of oligomers is used in the treatment agent as contemplated herein, these mixtures can be defined by their mean molecular weight.
In this case a treatment agent that is preferred as contemplated herein contains at least a mixture of compounds of formula (III) which has a molecular weight Mw of from about 200 to about 2,000 Da, preferably from about 250 to about 1,500 Da, preferably from about 300 to about 1,200 Da, in particular from about 400 to about 800 Da.
It has also been found that the protection or repair effect that the compounds of formula (III) have is also dependent on the repetition indices x and y. As described before, it is very particularly preferred if x stands for an integer from about 1 to about 10 and y stands for an integer from about 1 to about 10.
In a very particularly preferred embodiment an oxidative treatment agent as contemplated herein contains at least one compound of formula (III), wherein
Besides the molecular weight of the compound of formula (III), the proportion of the Bunte salt units that are contained in the compound of formula (III) also has a decisive influence on the efficacy of the protective effect or repair effect of the compounds.
Compounds having at least one Bunte salt unit—as is provided for example in the compound of formula (IIIa)—are very effective, in particular if they are used as a monomeric compound. Oligopeptides having at least one Bunte salt unit are particularly effective if they have a low molecular weight of up to about 1200, in particular about 800 dalton.
With use of oligopeptides, however, it is very particularly advantageous if the compound of formula (III) has at least two, preferably at least three Bunte salt units.
In a further very particularly preferred embodiment a treatment agent as contemplated herein contains at least one compound of formula (III), wherein
In a further very particularly preferred embodiment a treatment agent as contemplated herein contains at least one compound of formula (III), wherein
In a further very particularly preferred embodiment a treatment agent as contemplated herein contains at least one compound of formula (III), wherein
The at least one compound of formula (III) is contained n a total amount of from about 0.001 to about 10% by weight—based on the total weight of the treatment agent preferred as contemplated herein. It has surprisingly been found, however, that the compound(s) of formula (III) can bring about a very good reduction of hair damage, even in low use concentrations. This is advantageous in particular if the at least one compound of formula (III) is/are to be added to the treatment agent as contemplated herein as an additive (for example in the form of a nourishing solution or repair solution) prior to application to the hair. For this reason it is particularly advantageous if the oxidative treatment agent preferred as contemplated herein contains one or more compounds of the above-mentioned formula (III) in a total amount of from about 0.001 to about 2.5% by weight, more preferably from about 0.01 to about 1.0% by weight, and particularly preferably from about 0.02 to about 0.1% by weight, in each case in relation to the weight of the oxidative treatment agent as contemplated herein.
In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, an oxidative treatment agent as contemplated herein contains one or more compounds of the above-mentioned formula (III) in a total amount of from about 0.001 to about 2.5% by weight, more preferably from about 0.01 to about 1.0% by weight, and particularly preferably from about 0.02 to about 0.1% by weight, in each case in relation to the weight of the treatment agent as contemplated herein.
Fatty Acid Amides
The effect as contemplated herein can be surprisingly increased when the oxidative treatment agent contains at least one fatty acid amide of formula (AMID-I), as described further below. Oxidative treatment agents that are preferred as contemplated herein contain at least one fatty acid amide of formula (AMID-I),
in which
in which:
Particularly preferred fatly acid amides of formula (AMID-I) are those in which R1 is selected from alkoxylated alkyl groups of formula
in which n is an integer in the range from about 1 to about 10, preferably in the range from about 1 to about 4, and R4 is selected from a saturated linear C4-C22 alkyl group, R2 is hydrogen and R3 is selected from a saturated linear C10C22 alkyl group which is substituted with a hydroxyl group. Further particularly preferred fatty acid amides of formula (AMID-I) are those in which R1 is selected from alkoxylated alkyl groups of formula
in which n is about 1 and R4 is selected from a saturated linear C11-C16 alkyl group, R2 is hydrogen and R3 is selected from a beta-hydroxyethyl group. A fatty acid amide of this kind that is particularly preferred as contemplated herein is for example trident-2 carboxamide MEA.
Further particularly preferred fatty acid amides of formula (AMID-I) are those in which R1 is selected from a saturated linear C11-C21 alkyl group, R2 is hydrogen and R3 is selected from a saturated linear C1-C22 alkyl group which is substituted with an amine group, a C1-C3 alkylamino group, or a di-(C1-C3)-alkylamine group. Further particularly preferred fatty acid amides of formula (AMID0I) are those in which R1 is selected from a saturated linear C11-C21 alkyl group, R2 is hydrogen and R3 is selected from a gamma-dimethylamine-n-propyl group. Fatty acid amides of this kind that are particularly preferred as contemplated herein are for example stearamidopropyldimethylamine and behenamidopropyldimethylamine.
Further particularly preferred fatty acid amides of formula (AMID-I) are those in which R1 is selected from a saturated linear C11-C21 alkyl group, R2 is hydrogen and R3 is selected from a saturated linear C1-C3 alkyl group which is substituted in the omega position with a 4,5-dihydroimidazolium group, wherein the latter is substituted in the 2-position with a C8-C22 alkyl group and in the 1-position with a methyl group. Further particularly preferred fatty acid amides of formula (AMID-I) are those in which R1 is selected from a saturated linear C11-C21 alkyl group, R2 is hydrogen and R3 is selected from an ethyl group which is substituted in the omega position with a 4,5-dihydroimidazolium group, wherein the latter is substituted in the 2-position with a C8-C22 alkyl group and in the 1-position with a methyl group. Fatty acid amides of this kind that are particularly preferred as contemplated herein, for example 1-(docosanamidoethyl)-2-heneicosyl-1-methyl-4,5-dihydroimidazoliummethylsulfate, which has the INCI name “Quaternium-91” and 1-(cocoylamidoethyl)-2-cocoyl-1-methyl-4,5-dihydroimidazoliummethylsulfate, which has the INCI name “Quaternium-87” and the CAS number 92201-88-2.
Oxidative treatment agents that are particularly preferred as contemplated herein contain, in each case based on their weight, in a total amount of from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, particularly preferably from about 0.2 to about 5% by weight, exceptionally preferably from about 0.4 to about 2% by weight, of at least one of the fatty acid amides of formula (AMID-I), including at least one compound selected from trident-2 carboxamide MEA, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, quaternium-87 and quaternium-91.
The oxidative treatment agents as contemplated herein can be added directly and without a further composition to the keratin fibres to be treated, in particular to human hair. This application method is suitable in particular for attaining a slight lightening or bleaching of the keratin fibres and/or for preserving the lightened effect of a prior bleaching for longer. In order to attain a stronger lightening or bleaching effect, however, the oxidative treatment agent as contemplated herein must be set to a pH value in the range from about 6.5 to about 12 (measured at 20° C.) by addition of an alkalising agent. Since alkaline hydrogen peroxide solutions are not stable under storage, the alkalising agent is added only just before the application to the keratin fibres. This alkalising agent, referred to hereinafter as composition (B), can be solid, in particular powdered, but also liquid (from about 0 to about 500 mPas at 20° C.), medium-viscous (>from about 400 to about 4000 mPas at 20° C.) or creamy or pasty (>from about 4000 to about 4,000,000 mPas at 20° C.). If composition (B) is powdered, it is preferred as contemplated herein that it contains at least persulfate salt and/or at least one percarbonate salt.
The alkalising agent-containing composition (B) can be anhydrous and can contain water. If the mixture of oxidative treatment agent as contemplated herein and akalising agent-containing composition (B) is intended to lighten or bleach keratin fibres, in particular human hair, the composition (B) usually does not contain any oxidation dye precursors. It is possible, however, that it contains specific substantive dyes, which compensate an undesirable red or orange tone of the melanin degradation products. This technology is disclosed for example in WO2002074270A1 or in EP 2306963A1.
Alkalising Agent for Composition (B)
The compositions (B) suitable for combination with the oxidative treatment agent as contemplated herein contain at least one alkalising agent, selected from ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine and sodium silicates and mixtures hereof.
In order to attain the desired permanent colouring or lightening of the keratin fibres, composition (B), which is mixed with the oxidative treatment agent as contemplated herein to form the ready-to-use colourant or lightening agent, must have a pH value in the range of from about 6.5 to about 11.0, preferably from about 8 to about 10.5, particularly preferably from about 8.5 to about 10, in each case measured at 20° C. It is also important for the dyeing or lightening result that the ready-to-use colourant or lightening agent which is obtained by mixing the oxidative treatment agent as contemplated herein with the composition (B) has a pH value in the range of from about 6.5 to about 11.0, preferably from about 8 to 10.5, particularly preferably from about 8.5 to about 9.5, in each case measured at 20° C. At these pH values the outer keratin fibre layer opens itself optimally to receiving the oxidation dye precursor products and/or the oxidative effect of the hydrogen peroxide and optionally further peroxide compounds is exerted optimally.
Ammonia in the form of its aqueous solution is preferably used. Suitable aqueous ammonia solutions can be from about 10 to about 35% solutions (calculated in % by weight, 100 g aqueous ammonia solution contain accordingly from about 10 to about 35 g ammonia). Ammonia is preferably used in the form of a from about 20 to about 30% by weight solution, particularly preferably in the form of a about 25% by weight solution.
In a particularly preferred embodiment the composition (B) used as contemplated herein contains ammonium hydroxide in an amount of from about 0.20 to about 18.0% by weight, preferably from about 1.0 to about 15% by weight, more preferably from about 2.0 to about 12.0% by weight, and particularly preferably from about 3.0 to about 9% by weight—based on the weight of the composition (B) used as contemplated herein.
Additionally or instead of ammonium hydroxide, preferred compositions (B) used as contemplated herein contain monoethanolamine.
To attain a maximum masking of smell and to optimise the fastness properties, monoethanolamine is contained in a total amount of from about 0.2 to about 9.0% by weight, preferably from about 1.0 to about 7% by weight, more preferably from about 2.0 to about 6.0% by weight, and particularly preferably from about 3.0 to about 5.5% by weight—based on the weight of the composition (B) used as contemplated herein.
Sodium silicates in the sense of the present disclosure are chemical compounds which are composed of sodium oxide and silicon dioxide and which can occur in various molar ratios (monosilicate, metasilicate and polysilicate). An example of a sodium silicate is the sodium salt of ortho silicic acid with the molecular formula Na4SiO4, also referred to as sodium ortho silicate.
Further examples of suitable sodium silicates are disodium metasilicate or sodium metasilicate with the molecular formula Na2SiO3, disodium disilicate with the molecular formula Na2Si2O5 or disodium trisilicate with the molecular formula Na2Si3O7.
Silicates in amorphous form can be produced by fusing together silicon dioxide and alkali oxide in molar ratios between about 1:1 and about 4:1. The solids thus obtained are dissolved at approximately 150° C. and 5 bar vapour pressure so as to obtain a solution of the sodium silicates in water. These corresponding solutions are alkali water glasses.
Alkali water glasses are considered to be glassy (amorphous) sodium silicates solidified from a melt or aqueous solutions thereof. This is also referred to as sodium water glass. Sodium water glasses are also comprised to within this present disclosure by the definition of sodium silicates.
The molar composition in the case of water glasses is usually from about 2 to about 4 mol SiO2 to 1 mol alkali oxide (Na2O).
One example of a preferred sodium silicate is a sodium water glass which is present in the form of its aqueous solution, has an Na2O content of from about 7.5 to about 8.8% by weight, and an SiO2 content of from about 25.0 to about 28.5% by weight, and which has the CAS no. 1344-09-5 (Chemical Abstracts Number).
Further compositions (B) used preferably as contemplated herein contain at least one sodium silicate in a total amount of from about 0.1 to about 9% by weight, preferably from about 0.2 to about 8% by weight, particularly preferably from about 1 to about 7.5% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the composition (B) used as contemplated herein.
Furthermore, other alkalising agents, such as potassium hydroxide (KOH) and sodium hydroxide (NaOH) can be contained, usually in a total amount of from about 0.05 to about 1.5% by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 0.6% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the composition (B) used as contemplated herein.
If the mixture of oxidative treatment agent as contemplated herein and akalising agent-containing composition (B) is intended for oxidative colouring of keratin fibres, in particular human hair, the composition (B) for forming the dyes contains at least one oxidation dye precursors.
Oxidation dye precursor products of the developer type and coupler type fall under the oxidation dye precursor products. Particularly suitable oxidation dye precursor products of the developer type are selected here from at least one compound from the group of p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, 2-(1,2-dihydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N-(4-amino-3-methylphenyl)-N-[3-(1H-imidazol-1-yl)propyl]amine, N,N′-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N,N′-bis-(4-aminophenyl)-1,3-diamino-propan-2-ol, bis-(2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl)methane, 1,3-bis-(2,5-diaminophenoxy)propan-2-ol, N,N′-bis-(4-aminophenyl)-1,4-diazacycloheptane, 1,10-bis-(2,5-diaminophenyl)-1,4,7,10-tetraoxadecane, p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-(1,2-dihydroxyethyl)phenol, 4-amino-2-(diethylaminomethyl)phenol, 4,5-diamino-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one and physiologically acceptable salts thereof.
Particularly preferred oxidation dye precursor products of the coupler type are selected from the group of 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5 -(2-hydroxyethyl)-amino-2-methylphenol, 2,4-dichloro-3 -aminophenol, 2-aminophenol, 3-phenylendiamine, 2-(2,4-diaminophenoxy)ethanol, 1,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 1-methoxy-2-amino-4-(2-hydroxyethylamino)benzene, 1,3 -bis(2,4-diaminophenyl)propane, 2,6-bis(2′-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methylbenzene, 2-({3-[(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]-4-methoxy-5-methylphenyl}amino)ethanol, 2-({3-[(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]-2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl}amino)ethanol, 2-{3-[(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]-4,5-dimethylphenyl}amino)ethanol, 2-[3-morpholin-4-ylphenyl)amino]ethanol, 3-amino-4-(2-methoxyethoxy)-5-methylphenylamine, 1-amino-3 -bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)aminobenzene, resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 1-naphthol, 1,5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,8-dihydroxynaphthalene, 4-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole, 7-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindoline, 6-hydroxyindoline, 7-hydroxyindoline or mixtures of these compounds or physiologically acceptable salts thereof.
In a preferred embodiment the compositions (B) used as contemplated herein contain one or more oxidation dye precursors in a total amount of from from about 0.01 to about 30.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, more preferably from about 0.6 to about 3.1% by weight, and very particularly preferably from about 1.2 to about 2.2% by weight—based on the weight of the composition (B) used as contemplated herein.
In a further preferred embodiment the oxidative treatment agents as contemplated herein or the compositions (B) used as contemplated herein additionally contain at least one further substantive dye. Substantive dyes can be divided into anionic, cationic and non-ionic substantive dyes. The substantive dyes are preferably selected from the nitrophenylene diamines, the nitroaminophenols, the azo dyes, the anthraquinones, the triarylmethane dyes, or the indophenols and physiologically acceptable salts thereof. The substantive dyes are in each case preferably contained in a total amount of from about 0.001 to about 2% by weight, based on the weight of the composition (B) used as contemplated herein or based on the weight of the oxidative treatment agent as contemplated herein. Substantive dyes are used in oxidative colourants for fine adjustment of the attained shade; in oxidative bleaching agents for compensation of undesirable red hues, which can develop as the hair's own melanin is broken down.
Preferred anionic substantive dyes are the compounds known under the international names or trade names Acid Yellow 1, Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, Pigment Red 57:1, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, Acid Violet 43, Acid Black 1, Acid Black 52, bromophenol blue and tetrabromophenol blue.
Preferred cationic substantive dyes are cationic triphenylmethane dyes, such as Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14, aromatic systems which are substituted with a quaternary nitrogen group, such as Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17, cationic anthraquinone dyes, such as HC Blue 16 (Bluequat B), and substantive dyes which contain a heterocycle comprising at least one quaternary nitrogen atom, in particular Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51. The cationic substantive dyes sold under the trademark Arianor are likewise preferred cationic substantive dyes as contemplated herein.
In particular, non-ionic nitro and quinone dyes and neutral azo dyes are suitable as non-ionic substantive dyes. Preferred non-ionic substantive dyes are the compounds known under the international names or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 7,HC Red 10, HC Red 11, HC Red 13, HC Red BN, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 11, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, and Disperse Black 9, and 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)aminophenol, 2-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 4-[(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]-3-nitro-1-methylbenzene, 1-amino-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-5-chloro-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-3 -nitrophenol, 1-(2′- ureidoethyl)amino-4-nitrobenzene, 2-[(4-amino-2-nitrophenyl)amino]benzoic acid, 4-[(3-hydroxypropyl)amino]-3-nitrophenol, 4-nitro-o-phenylenediamine, 6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone, picramic acid and salts thereof, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid and 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrophenol.
Oxidative treatment agents that are preferred as contemplated herein and/or compositions (B) that are used with preference as contemplated herein contain, as further optional ingredient, at least one permanently cationic polymer B.
The permanently cationic polymer, besides at least one permanently cationically charged monomer type, also contains at least one permanently anionically charged monomer type, wherein the cationic monomers are present in molar excess in relation to the anionic monomers, such that the at least one second polymer as contemplated herein has a cationic net charge. Polymers of this kind that are preferred as contemplated herein are also referred to as amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers.
In a first preferred embodiment, oxidative treatment agents that are preferred as contemplated herein and/or compositions (B) that are used with preference as contemplated herein contain at least one permanently cationic polymer that is selected from
R3—CH═CR4—CO—Z—(CnH2n)—N(+)R5R6R7 A(−) (IIa),
in which R3 and R4 independently of one another stand for hydrogen or a methyl group, R5, R6 and R7 independently of one another stand for an alkyl group having from about 1 to about 4 carbon atoms, Z stands for an NH group or an oxygen atom, n stands for an integer of from about 2 to about 4, and A(−) is the anion of an inorganic or organic acid,
preferably selected from cationic polymers constructed from acrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride,
particularly preferably selected from amphoteric polymers having a cationic net charge which are constructed by polymerisation from
R3—CH═CR4—CO—Z—(CnH2n)—N(+)R5R6R7 A(−) (IIa),
in which R3 and R4 independently of one another stand for hydrogen or a methyl group, R5, R6 and R7 independently of one another stand for an alkyl group having from about 1 to about 4 carbon atoms, Z stands for an NH group or an oxygen atom, n stands for an integer of from about 2 to about 4, and A(−) is the anion of an inorganic or organic acid,
Permanent cationic polymers that are exceptionally preferred as contemplated herein are selected from 2[2-hydroxy-3-(trimethylammonio)propoxy]ethylcellulose ether chloride, amphoteric copolymers with cationic net charge which includes acrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride and acrylic acid in a molar ratio of from about 60:40 to about 95:5, preferably from about 75:25 to about 90:10 to one another, and terpolymers from acrylic acid, diallyldimethyl ammonium chloride and acrylamide, and mixtures of two and three of these polymers.
Particularly preferred polymer B mixtures contain 2-[2-hydroxy-3-(trimethylammonio)propoxy]ethylcellulose ether chloride and at least one amphoteric copolymer with cationic net charge which includes acrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride and acrylic acid in a molar ratio of from about 60:40 to about 95:5, preferably from about 75:25 to about 90:10 to one another.
Further particularly preferred polymer B mixtures contain 2-[2-hydroxy-3-(trimethylammonio)propoxy]ethylcellulose ether chloride, at least one amphoteric copolymer with cationic net charge which includes acrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride and acrylic acid in a molar ratio of from about 60:40 to about 95:5, preferably from about 75:25 to about 90:10 to one another, and at least one terpolymer of acrylic acid, diallyldimethyl ammonium chloride and acrylamide.
Permanently cationic polymers B that are likewise exceptionally preferred as contemplated herein are selected from Poly quaternium-10, amphoteric copolymers with cationic net charge which includes acrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride and acrylic acid in a molar ratio of from about 60:40 to about 95:5, preferably from about 75:25 to about 90:10 to one another, and Polyquaternium-39, and mixtures of two and three of these polymers.
Further particularly preferred polymer B mixtures contain Polyquanternium-10 and at least one amphoteric copolymer with cationic net charge which includes acrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride and acrylic acid in a molar ratio of from about 60:40 to about 95:5, preferably from about 75:25 to about 90:10 to one another.
Further particularly preferred polymer B mixtures contain Polyquanternium-10 and at least one amphoteric copolymer with cationic net charge which includes acrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride and acrylic acid in a molar ratio of from about 60:40 to about 95:5, preferably from about 75:25 to about 90:10 to one another, and Polyquaternium-39.
Preferred oxidative treatment agents as contemplated herein contain the at least one permanently cationic polymer B in a total amount of from about 0.05 to about 1.5% by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 1.0% by weight, particularly preferably from about 0.2 to about 0.8% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative treatment agent as contemplated herein.
Preferred compositions (B) that are used as contemplated herein contain the at least one permanently cationic polymer B in a total amount of from about 0.05 to about 1.5% by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 1.0% by weight, particularly preferably from about 0.2 to about 0.8% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the composition (B) used as contemplated herein.
A further subject of the present disclosure is a method for the oxidative dyeing and/or lightening of keratin fibres, in particular human hair, in which an oxidative treatment agent is applied to the keratin fibres, in particular to the human hair, and optionally is rinsed out again after a reaction time of from about 0.1 to about 60 minutes, preferably from about 1 to about 50 minutes, particularly preferably from about 10 to about 45 minutes, exceptionally preferably from about 30 to about 45 minutes, wherein this treatment agent contains
For the method as contemplated herein for oxidative dyeing and/or lightening or keratin fibres, in particular human hair, and preferred embodiments thereof, that which has been said in respect of the oxidative treatment agents as contemplated herein and the oxidative treatment agents that are preferred as contemplated herein applies, mutatis mutandis.
The method as contemplated herein for oxidative dyeing and/or lightening of keratin fibres, in particular human hair, can optionally be followed by further hair treatment steps, for example the application of a conditioner, a hair deforming agent, for example a smoothing agent or a waving agent, a further hair colourant, for example for dyeing or bleaching hair strands, rinse-out steps and drying steps, for example rubbing or pressing dry with a towel, drying with a hair-dryer, or drying using a drying hood.
Mixing Ratios of Oxidative Treatment Agents as Contemplated Herein and Composition (B)
It has proven to be expedient as contemplated herein if the ratio by weight of oxidative treatment agent as contemplated herein, which contains water, hydrogen peroxide and the hair-protecting combination of at least one dicarboxylic acid having from about 2 to about 10 carbon atoms and at least one amino acid, preferably at least one amino acid of formula (VI), and which has a pH value in the range of from about 2.5 to about 6.5, preferably in the range of from about 3 to about 5.5, particularly preferably in the range of from about 3.5 to about 5.0, in each case measured at 20° C., to the composition (B), containing at least one alkalising agent selected from ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine and sodium silicates and mixtures hereof, optionally water and optionally at least one oxidation dye precursor product and/or at least one substantive dye, lies in the range of from about 10:1 to about 1:4, preferably from about 5:1 to about 1:3, particularly preferably from about 4:1 to about 1:2, exceptionally preferably from about 2:1 to about 1:1.
That which has been said in respect of the oxidative treatment agents as contemplated herein and the oxidative treatment agents that are preferred as contemplated herein applies, mutatis mutandis for the method as contemplated herein for oxidative dyeing and/or lightening of keratin fibres, in particular human hair, using the treatment agent formed of the at least two above-described compositions (A) and (B) and preferred embodiments thereof
The following examples of oxidative treatment agents as contemplated herein are intended to explain the present disclosure without limiting it.
Colouring creams 1 and 2 according to table 4 correspond to compositions (B) as presented in the description. They were each mixed in a ratio by weight of 1:1 with one of the oxidative treatment agents from tables 1, 2 or 3, then directly applied to strands of human hair, and rinsed out using water and a shampoo after a reaction time of 45 minutes. The hair was then dried first using a towel and then using a hair-dryer.
In order to produce the ready-to-use bleaching agent, 2 parts by weight of an oxidative treatment agent from tables 1, 2 or 3 were in each case mixed with one part by weight of the bleaching powder according to table 5, then applied directly to strands of human hair, and rinsed out using water and a shampoo after a reaction time of 500 minutes. The hair was then dried first using a towel and then using a hair-dryer.
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| 10 2016 209 468.8 | May 2016 | DE | national |
This application is a U.S. National-Stage entry under 35 U.S.C. § 371 based on International Application No. PCT/EP2017/063160, filed May 31, 2017 which was published under PCT Article 21(2) and which claims priority to German Application No. 10 2016 209 468.8, filed May 31, 2016, which are all hereby incorporated in their entirety by reference.
| Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/EP2017/063160 | 5/31/2017 | WO | 00 |
