Patent Application
20130280188
The present invention relates to a self-tanning cosmetic (a sunless tanning cosmetic).
In North America and Europe, healthy sun tanned bronze skin is popular. However, the suntan caused by sun bathing or tanning bed raises concerns as possible causes of skin cancer and freckles due to the adverse effects caused by ultraviolet rays. For this reason, self-tanning cosmetics, which render a natural healthy suntan-like brown color effect to the skin, have been favorably used. Self-tanning cosmetics work to color the skin by the reaction of the skin and dihydroxyacetone (1,3-dihydroxy-2-propanone) contained in the cosmetic composition thereof. However, during this reaction process, an unpleasant odor, i.e., a reaction odor, is generated and causes discomfort to consumers upon application, which has been problematic.
However, substantially no study has been reported so far regarding the unpleasant odor upon application of a self-tanning cosmetic and the technology to improve the odor is in demand. Routinely, as measures to eliminate the discomfort caused by such unpleasant odor, the perfume concentration of a perfume composition may be increased or a perfume composition having an intense fragrance may be used. However, as a result, a stimulating odor derived from perfume substances results, posing a problem of deteriorating the quality of the fragrance.
It is known that such an unpleasant odor varies in a time dependent manner as the skin coloring caused by dihydroxyacetone progresses (Non-Patent Literature 1). Also, Patent Literature 1 discloses a personal treatment composition containing a perfume composition containing 70% or more of an enduring perfume for a long lasting fragrance. Further, a self-tanning composition is disclosed as an example of such a personal treatment composition. Patent Literature 2 also discloses a self-tanning cosmetic scented with a perfume composition. The perfume composition applied in a self-tanning cosmetic contains several tens kinds of perfume raw materials. Meanwhile, Patent Literature 3 describes a perfume capsule which can be used in a skin cosmetic and illustrates an example of a perfume which can neutralize the unpleasant odor when added to the perfume capsule.
The present invention provides a self-tanning cosmetic comprising the following component (A), component (B) and component (C):
(A) dihydroxyacetone;
(B) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of 4-methyl-3-decen-5-ol, 2-ethyl-4-(2,2,3-trimethyl-3-cyclopenten-1-yl)-2-buten-1-ol, 2-hexyl-3-phenyl-2-propenal and 2-methyl-3-(4-iso-propylphenyl)propanal; and
(C) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of 3,7-dimethyl-1,6-nonadien-3-ol, 1-(2,2,6-trimethyl-2-cyclohexenyl)-2-buten-1-one, 1-(5,5-dimethyl-1-cyclohexen-1-yl)-4-penten-1-one, 1-(3,3-dimethyl-6-cyclohexen-1-yl)-4-penten-1-one, benzaldehyde and gamma-nonalactone.
The present invention further provides a self-tanning method reducing odor derived from a compound represented by the following formula (I), comprising a step of application of a self-tanning cosmetic to the skin for a browning reaction, wherein the self-tanning cosmetic comprises the component (A), the component (B) and the component (C):
wherein R1 represents a methyl group, an ethyl group or an acetyl group, and R2, R3 and R4 each independently represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl group.
The present invention relates to a self-tanning cosmetic imparted with a good masking ability against the bad odor upon application of the self-tanning cosmetic without increasing the amount of a perfume added to the self-tanning cosmetic or using a perfume having an intense fragrance.
The description of Non-Patent Literature 1 described earlier did not specify the odor substance generated when staining the skin by dihydroxyacetone. Also, the self-tanning cosmetics of Patent Literature 1 and Patent Literature 2 provided an insufficient deodorizing effect against the earthy odor perceived as an unpleasant odor, which is generated particularly from the initial stage to middle stage of the reaction while a consumer is using the self-tanning cosmetic.
The present inventors found that pyrazines such as dimethylpyrazine are largely involved with the earthy odor generated while a consumer is using a self-tanning cosmetic. The present inventors further identified an olfactory receptor which senses the odor of pyrazines and found that specific several perfumes can be used as antagonists against the olfactory receptor. Furthermore, the present inventors found several perfumes which can effectively mask the odor of pyrazines which vaporizes from the self-tanning cosmetics. Based on the above findings, the present inventors found that a good masking ability against the bad odor generated upon application of a self-tanning cosmetic can be imparted by adding the above two groups of perfumes together with dihydroxyacetone to the self-tanning cosmetic, without increasing the amount of perfumes or using a perfume having an intense fragrance.
The self-tanning cosmetic of the present invention contains the component (A) dihydroxyacetone as an active ingredient to color by reacting with the skin. The content of component (A) in the self-tanning cosmetic of the present invention is, in the light of the coloring intensity to the skin, preferably 0.01 to 10 mass %, more preferably 0.01 to 7 mass %, even more preferably 0.01 to 5 mass %.
The component (B) of the present invention is a compound having a high antagonist activity against the olfactory receptor of pyrazines generated by the reaction of the component (A) dihydroxyacetone and the skin, and can reduce the bad odor derived from pyrazines. Used as the component (B) is at least one compound selected from the group consisting of 4-methyl-3-decen-5-ol (Undecavertol®; Givaudan), 2-ethyl-4-(2,2,3-trimethyl-3-cyclopenten-1-yl)-2-buten-1-ol (Bangalol®; Givaudan), 2-hexyl-3-phenyl-2-propenal (also known as Amyl cinnamic aldehyde) and 2-methyl-3-(4-iso-propylphenyl)propanal (also known as Cyclamen aldehyde). The component (B) may be any one selected from the above listing, but preferably contains two or more compounds.
The content of component (B) in the self-tanning cosmetic of the present invention is, in light of the deodorizing effect and fragrance quality, preferably 0.001 to 0.1 mass %, more preferably 0.001 to 0.05 mass %, even more preferably 0.001 to 0.03 mass %, even more preferably 0.005 to 0.025 mass %, even more preferably 0.005 to 0.02 mass %, even more preferably 0.01 to 0.02 mass %.
The component (C) of the present invention is a favorable component having a good masking ability against the bad odor derived from pyrazines generated by the reaction of the component (A) dihydroxyacetone with the skin. Preferably used as the component (C) is at least one compound selected from the group consisting of 3,7-dimethyl-1,6-nonadien-3-ol (Ethyl linalool; Givaudan), 1-(2,2,6-trimethyl-2-cyclohexenyl)-2-buten-1-one (Damascone Alpha; Firmenich), 1-(5,5-dimethyl-1-cyclohexen-1-yl)-4-penten-1-one (Dynascone®; Firmenich), 1-(3,3-dimethyl-6-cyclohexen-1-yl)-4-penten-1-one (Dynascone®; Firmenich), benzaldehyde and gamma-nonalactone (Aldehyde C-18 (so-called)). The component (C) may be any one selected from the above listing, but preferably contains two or more compounds.
The content of component (C) in the self-tanning cosmetic of the present invention is, in light of a deodorizing effect and fragrance quality, preferably 0.001 to 0.1 mass %, more preferably 0.003 to 0.1 mass %, even more preferably 0.005 to 0.1 mass %, even more preferably 0.01 to 0.1 mass %.
Further, the mass ratio of the component (B) content and the component (C) content in the self-tanning cosmetic of the present invention is, in light of enhancing the masking effect, preferably 1:10 to 10:1, more preferably 1:5 to 5:1, even more preferably 1:5 to 3:1.
Further, the self-tanning cosmetic of the present invention may contain, in addition to the components (B) and (C), known perfume raw materials in light of enhancing the product acceptability. The exemplary known perfume raw materials herein are the perfume raw materials described in Common Fragrance and Flavor Materials: Preparation, Properties and Uses, by Horst Surburg, Johannes Panten (John Wiley & Sons, 5th edition, 2006), Perfume and Flavor Chemicals, volume 1 and 2, by Steffen Arctander, (published by the author in 1969), and Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin, by Steffen Arctander (published by the author in 1961).
Unlimited examples of the known perfume raw material include 3,7-dimethyl-6-octen-1-ol (also known as Citronellol), 2,6-dimethyl-7-octen-2-ol (also known as Dihydro myrcenol), 3,7-dimethyl-1,6-octadien-3-ol (also known as Linalool), phenyl ethyl alcohol, 3-(3,4-methylenedioxyphenyl)-2-methylpropanal (also known as Helional®; IFF), p-tert-butyl-alpha-methyl hydrocinnamic aldehyde (also known as Lilial® Givaudan), 1,3,4,6,7,8-hexahydro-4,6,6,7,8,8-hexamethyl cyclopenta-gamma-2-benzopyran (also known as Galaxolide®; IFF), 4-(2,6,6-trimethyl-2-cyclohexen-1-yl)-3-methyl-3-buten-2-one (also known as Methyl ionone-gamma), 2-methylbutoxyacetic acid 2-propenyl ester (also known as Allyl amyl glycolate), decahydro-3a,6,6,9a-tetramethyl naphtha[2.1-b]furan (also known as Ambroxan®; Kao), methyl dihydrojasmonate, benzyl acetate, gamma-undecalactone (Aldehyde C-14 (so-called)), cis-3-hexenyl salicylate, 7-methyl-3,4-dihydro-(2H)-1,5-benzodioxepin-3-one (Calone), and the like.
Further, these known perfume raw materials may be added to the cosmetic after being dissolved in a solvent. As the solvent for perfumes, dipropylene glycol (DPG), isopropyl myristate (IPM), triethyl citrate (TEC), or the like, may be used.
The total content of the component (B), the component (C) and other perfume components in the self-tanning cosmetic of the present invention, i.e., the content of all perfume components, is preferably 0.01 to 1.0 mass %, more preferably 0.1 to 0.7 mass %, even more preferably 0.2 to 0.7 mass %, even more preferably 0.3 to 0.6 mass %.
Further, the self-tanning cosmetic of the present invention preferably contains a polysaccharide as the component (E) in light of reducing the reaction odor. Examples of such a polysaccharide include starch, cyclodextrin, powder cellulose, etc. The content of component (E) in the self-tanning cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 0.1 to 10 mass %, more preferably 1 to 10 mass %, even more preferably 2 to 8 mass %, even more preferably 3 to 7 mass %.
Further, the self-tanning cosmetic of the present invention preferably contains erythrulose as the component (F). In this instance, in light of coloring the skin, the component (A) dihydroxyacetone is preferably added in a higher concentration than the component (F) erythrulose. Further, the total content of the components (A) and (B) in the self-tanning cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 0.01 to 20 mass %, more preferably 0.01 to 15 mass %, even more preferably 0.01 to 10 mass %, even more preferably 0.01 to 7 mass %, even more preferably 0.01 to 5 mass %.
To the self-tanning cosmetic of the present invention, various routinely used components may be added. Examples include a moisturizer, an emulsifier, an anti-inflammatory agent, a preservative, an oil, a thickener, a pH adjuster, water, or the like.
The dosage form for the self-tanning cosmetic of the present invention may be any form insofar as it is acceptable as a cosmetic. Examples include a spray, a mist, a cream, a lotion, a gel, a powder, a mask, a solution, an emulsion, or the like. A cream form is particularly desirable.
The present invention can reduce the pyrazines-derived odor, which is generated by the application of the cosmetic containing the component (A) to the skin and the proceeding of browning reaction, by adding the component (B) and the component (C) to the cosmetic containing the component (A). The pyrazines are the compounds represented by the following formula (1):
wherein R1 represents a methyl group, an ethyl group or an acetyl group, and R2, R3 and R4 each independently represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,
which are in the compound group extremely analogous in the chemical structure to the compounds which the present inventors revealed are the causative substances of the tanning odor. Examples of the causative substances of the tanning odor revealed by the present inventors include 2-methylpyrazine, 2,6-dimethylpyrazine, 2,5-dimethylpyrazine, 2-ethyl-6-methylpyrazine, 2-acetyl-3-methylpyrazine, 2,3,6-trimethylpyrazine, 2-acetyl-3,5-dimethylpyrazine, and the like; particularly with 2,6-dimethylpyrazine and 2,5-dimethylpyrazine being frequently detected. These pyrazine compounds are the well known compounds as the flavors for food products. However, they are not well known as the structural components of the tanning odor.
The kind and amount to be used of each component for the method of the present invention is the same as the contents described earlier for the self-tanning cosmetics.
The self-tanning cosmetic of the present invention is preferably applied to the skin in an amount of 0.005 to 0.01 g/cm2. The part of skin to which the cosmetic is applied is not particularly limited, and the cosmetic is applicable, for example, to the arms, legs, back, nape of the neck, face, and the like.
The following examples further describe and demonstrate embodiments of the present invention. The examples are given solely for the purpose of illustration and are not to be construed as limitations of the present invention.
The analysis of the volatile substances generated by the reaction of dihydroxyacetone and the skin keratin was carried out.
A subject (one healthy Japanese male) refrained from applying any kind of cream to his heels on the day before the keratin-collection. After the subject thoroughly washed the heels with warm water and completely dried, the calloused skin (powdery form) of the heels was collected using a commercial keratin smoother (Motorized heel smoother, Panasonic ES2502OPP). After the collection, the collected powder was put in a glass container and, without a lid, left to stand overnight in a dryer (50° C.), thereby obtaining a dehydrated substantially odorless white powder. The thus dried keratin powder, in a glass tube with the lid on, was stored in a refrigerator unless it was used.
10 mg of the dried keratin powder and 0.1 mL of an aqueous solution of dihydroxyacetone (10 mass %) were mixed in a glass container (20 mL). The upper part of the container was sealed with a rubber septum. The mixture was stored for 5 days while heated (50° C.). As a result, the color of keratin powder changed to brown and an intense reaction odor was generated. The rubber septum was pierced with an SPME (Solid Phase Micro Extraction) fiber, and the volatile substances generated were collected and analyzed for GC-MS. The results are shown in
As shown in
The same test (stored for 5 days while heated to 50° C.) was carried out using 0.1 mL of an aqueous solution of dihydroxyacetone (10 mass %) or a mixture of 10 mg of keratin powder and 0.1 mL of pure water, but no pyrazines were detected.
Five healthy American females (all Caucasian/white) cooperated with the test. The subjects (with their right hand) applied 0.5 mL of the self-tanning agent (unperfumed, dihydroxyacetone concentration 2 mass %, erythrulose concentration 0.5 mass %) throughout their entire left forearm.
The collection of reaction odor was carried out by a technique to which the SPME (Solid Phase Micro Extraction) method was applied.
First, a large number of air holes (inner diameter 4 mm) were made at the tip (4 cm) of a commercial Teflon tube (inner diameter 8 mm, outer diameter 10 mm, length 9 cm). Using 2 circular inactive rubber septa, the SPME needle part was fixed inside the Teflon tube. Subsequently, the SPME fiber (originally stored inside the needle) coated with an adsorbent was pushed out and exposed. The connecting part (notch) to the SPME holder (main body) was covered and protected with a thin Teflon tube (6 cm).
For a sleeve (arm cover), one with the surface coated with Teflon (FLON INDUSTRY, 120 mmφ), length 400 mm) was used. After the coated surface was turned inside (facing the arm), the SPME device was arranged in the center and fixed from outside with 2 plastic rings. The SPME fiber used was P/N 57335-U (manufactured by SUPELCO Inc.) up to 4 hours from immediately after the application of the self-tanning agent and P/N 57348-U (manufactured by SUPELCO Inc.) from 4 hours to 8 hours after the application of the self-tanning agent. When the fiber was exchanged, the Teflon sleeve was also exchanged with a new one.
(Analysis of the Volatile Substances Generated from the Arm)
The odor of 5 subjects' arm was subjected to sensory evaluation. The table below shows the evaluation results on the similarity of the substances easily detected directly from the arm after the product application to the reaction odor. The evaluation was carried out using reagents by 4 people.
A: Evaluated as similar by 3 or more people
B: Evaluated as similar by 1 to 2 people
C: Evaluated as similar by 0 people
Human olfactory receptors were cloned based on sequence information registered in GenBank by PCR using human genomic DNA female (G1521: Promega Corporation) as a template. Each gene amplified by FCR was incorporated into pENTR vector (Invitrogen Inc.) in accordance with the manual and recombined to the NotI and AscI sites located downstream of a Flag-Rho tag sequence in a pME18S vector using the NotI and AscI sites present on the pENTR vector.
2) Production of pME18S-RTP1S Vector
An RTP1S variant gene (SEQ ID NO: 3) encoding an RTP1S variant (SEQ ID NO: 4) was incorporated into the EcoRI and XhoI sites of a pME18S vector.
HEK293 cells expressing 373 types of human olfactory receptors were produced. A reaction solution having a composition shown in Table 2 was prepared, left to stand in a clean bench for 15 min and then was dispensed in each well of a 96 well plate (Becton, Dickinson and Company). Subsequently, HEK293 cells (100 μL, 3×105 cells/cm2) were seeded in each well and cultured in an incubator at 37° C. under 5 mass % CO2 for 24 hours.
An olfactory receptor expressed in HEK293 cells couples with endogenous Gas in the cells to activate adenylate cyclase and thereby increases the amount of intracellular cAMP. In this study, the odor response was measured by luciferase reporter gene assay which monitors an increase in amount of intracellular cAMP as the luminescence value derived from a firefly luciferase gene (fluc2P-CRE-hygro). A Renilla luciferase gene was fused with the downstream of a CMV promoter (hRluc-CMV) and was also introduced to HEK293 cells as an internal standard to correct errors in gene transfer efficiency and number of cells.
The culture medium was removed from the culture produced in the above 3), and 75 μL of a solution prepared with a CD293 medium (Invitrogen Inc.) so as to contain a pyrazine derivative (1 mM 2,6-dimethylpyrazine) was added thereto. The cells were cultured in a CO2 incubator for 2.5 hours to sufficiently express the luciferase gene in the cells. The luciferase activity was measured with a Dual-Glo™ luciferase assay system (Promega Corporation) in accordance with the operating manual of the system. The fold increases were calculated by dividing the luminescence value derived from firefly luciferase induced by stimulation with the odor substances by the luminescence value in cells not stimulated with the odor substances and were used as an index of response strength.
The response of each of the 373 types of olfactory receptors to 2,6-dimethylpyrazine (1 mM) was measured, and the results showed that only olfactory receptor OR5K1 responded to 2,6-dimethylpyrazine (
Olfactory receptor OR5K1 is expressed in human olfactory cells and has been registered in GenBank under the accession number GI: 115270955. OR5K1 is a protein encoded by a gene having a nucleotide sequence represented by SEQ ID NO: 1 and having the amino acid sequence represented by SEQ ID NO: 2.
Response of OR5K1 to 2,6-dimethylpyrazine has not been reported until now, and OR5K1 is a novel 2,6-dimethylpyrazine receptor.
Olfactory receptor OR5K1 (SEQ ID NO: 2) was expressed in HEK293 cells together with an RTP1S variant (SEQ ID NO: 4) by the same procedure as in Test Example 3, and the dependency of the response on the concentration (0, 3, 10, 30, 100, 300, and 1000 μM) in various pyrazine compounds was investigated. The pyrazine compounds used in this Example were pyrazine and pyrazine derivatives selected from the group consisting of 2-methylpyrazine, 2,3-dimethylpyrazine, 2,5-dimethylpyrazine, 2,3,5-trimethylpyrazine, 2,3,5,6-tetramethylpyrazine, and 2-ethylpyrazine.
The results were that OR5K1 concentration-dependently responded to the pyrazine derivatives, i.e., 2-methylpyrazine, 2,3-dimethylpyrazine, 2,5-dimethylpyrazine, 2,6-dimethylpyrazine, 2,3,5-trimethylpyrazine, 2,3,5,6-tetramethylpyrazine, and 2-ethylpyrazine, but did not respond to pyrazine (
Antagonist activities of 174 test materials against olfactory receptor OR5K1 were investigated by examining response of OR5K1 to a pyrazine derivative.
2,6-Dimethylpyrazine (1 mM) and each of the test materials (300 μM) were added to HEK293 cells expressing olfactory receptor OR5K1 by the same procedure as in Test Example 4, and the response of the olfactory receptor to 2,6-dimethylpyrazine was measured to evaluate a change in response of the receptor due to addition of the test material. Perfumes recognized to have cytotoxicity were re-evaluated using a mixture of 333 μM of 2,6-dimethylpyrazine and 100 JAM of a test material.
The receptor response-inhibiting rate of a test material was calculated as follows. The receptor activity (X−Y) by stimulation with 2,6-dimethylpyrazine alone was determined by subtracting the luminescence value (Y) in cells to which the receptor was introduced but were not stimulated with 2,6-dimethylpyrazine from the luminescence value (X) derived from firefly luciferase induced by odor stimulation with 2,6-dimethylpyrazine alone. Similarly, the receptor activity (Z−Y) in the presence of a test material was determined by subtracting the luminescence value (Y) in cells not stimulated with 2,6-dimethylpyrazine from the luminescence value (Z) stimulated with a mixture of 2,6-dimethylpyrazine and the test material. The reduction rate of the receptor activity (Z−Y) in the presence of a test material to the receptor activity (X−Y) by stimulation with 2,6-dimethylpyrazine alone was calculated by the following computation expression:
Inhibition rate (%)={1−(Z−Y)/(X−Y)}×100,
to determine the receptor response-inhibiting rate of the test material. In the measurement, multiple independent experiments were performed in duplicate, and the average of each experiment was used.
As shown in Table 3 regarding representative compounds, 4-methyl-3-decen-5-ol (Undecavertol®; Givaudan), 2-ethyl-4-(2,2,3-trimethyl-3-cyclopenten-1-yl)-2-buten-1-ol (Bangalol®; Givaudan), 2-hexyl-3-phenyl-2-propenal (also known as Amyl cinnamic aldehyde) and 2-methyl-3-(4-iso-propylphenyl)propanal (also known as Cyclamen aldehyde) recognized to have the antagonist activity on the response of OR5K1 to pyrazine derivatives.
On the other hand, methyl dihydrojasmonate, 4-methyl-2-(2-methylpropyl)tetrahydro-2H-4-pyranol (also known as Florosa) and 4-(p-hydroxyphenyl)-2-butanone (also known as Raspberry ketone) recognized to have no antagonist activity described above.
The unperfumed self-tanning cosmetic shown in Table 4 was prepared and 1 mass % of dimethylpyrazine was added thereto. Each of the perfume raw materials was added to the cosmetic so that a perfume concentration is 0.1 mass %, and the evaluation was carried out in accordance with the following evaluation method and criteria.
1. Scent 99.9 g of the self-tanning cosmetic containing dimethylpyrazine with 0.1 g (0.1 mass %) of each of the perfume raw materials. At this time, in consideration of a threshold, specific raw materials were used in the form of a perfume solution diluted to 10 mass % with dipropylene glycol.
2. Uniformly spread 0.5 g of the prepared self-tanning cosmetic on a piece of wrapping paper sized 15 cm×15 cm.
3. Evaluate the fragrance in accordance with the following criteria.
5: No malodor of dimethylpyrazine
4: Slight malodor of dimethylpyrazine
3: Moderate malodor of dimethylpyrazine
2: Slightly strong malodor of dimethylpyrazine
1: Strong malodor of dimethylpyrazine
Table 5 shows the evaluation results of methyl dihydrojasmonate and 5 perfume raw materials which had good reduction activity on the discomfort caused by the bad odor as the result of the above evaluation. The evaluation was carried out based on the discussion among four specialized panelists and was shown in units of 0.5.
The self-tanning cosmetic shown in Table 4 was scented with 0.5 mass of Perfumes 1 to 17 shown in Tables 6 and 7, and evaluated in accordance with the following method and criteria.
0.5 g of the perfume-applied self-tanning cosmetic was weighed, mixed homogeneously with 0.1 g of keratin powder and uniformly spread on a piece of wrapping paper sized 15 cm×15 cm. The resultant paper was left to stand at 25° C. in a thermostat and the trailing fragrance from the wrapping paper was evaluated 3 hours later in accordance with the following criteria. The results are shown in Tables 8 and 9. The evaluation was carried out based on the discussion among four specialized panelists and was shown in units of 0.5.
The self-tanning cosmetics of the following Formulation Examples 1 and 2 are scented with 0.5 mass % of Perfume 3 shown in Table 6.
| Number | Date | Country | |
|---|---|---|---|
| 61636093 | Apr 2012 | US |
