This application claims priority to European Patent Application No. 21211740.2, filed on Dec. 1, 2021, the entire contents of which are incorporated herein by reference.
The invention relates to a setting, including an upper body, extending around an axis defining a direction for driving said setting into a bed of a piece of jewellery or timepiece, and including a first surface arranged to receive a component to be set, at least one setting element arranged to ensure the holding of said component to be set, and, aligned with said upper body, a lower body including a second front surface.
The invention also relates to a setting assembly including a piece of jewellery or timepiece, which includes at least one bed arranged to receive such a setting.
The invention also relates to a method for producing a decorative assembly with setting of a component to be set arranged to cooperate with a setting in a bed of a piece of jewellery or timepiece.
The invention relates to the field of setting attached elements, particularly components to be set such as stones, pearls, cameos or similar, on pieces of jewellery or timepieces.
The setting of attached elements on a piece of jewellery or timepiece is a delicate operation, because the security of holding such an attached element must be ensured in any circumstance, in particular during contact with the clothes of the user, or with other objects or people. The trade value of these attached elements may indeed be very high, if it concerns precious stones or similar.
Modern pieces of jewellery or timepiece often include structural elements such as cases, crystals, bracelet links, or others, which are produced in materials that have no plastic deformation, often hard and/or fragile, such as for example ceramic, silicon, sapphire, intermetallic alloys or also metal, natural or polymer matrix composites.
Therefore, the use of an intermediate setting between the structure and decorative element is essential for making it possible to set such decorative elements. Indeed, their soldering on the structure is generally impossible, and their possible gluing directly on the structure does not have sufficient resistance guarantees over time and in any circumstances of use.
The use of settings made of plastic or shape-memory material is a solution making it possible to hold the setting well in its bed, but which is not very suitable for fastening decorative elements of very small size, and the installation is delicate, requiring better qualified staff; the cost of such a setting is, furthermore, fairly high, and the choice of an elastic material is difficult to reconcile with the deformation of setting elements such as claws or grains, generally used for holding the decorative element on the setting. In addition, such elastic settings are not aesthetically pleasing.
It is therefore delicate to combine the imperatives of holding, cost, easy installation, in particular when the piece of jewellery or timepiece is produced in a hard substrate, that is difficult to or cannot be machined, and when the decorative element is of small dimensions.
The invention proposes to provide a simple and economical solution to the problem of setting decorative elements on structural elements made of hard material.
To this end, the invention relates to a setting according to claim 1.
The invention also relates to a setting assembly including a piece of jewellery or timepiece, which includes at least one bed arranged to receive such a setting.
The invention also relates to a method for producing a decorative assembly with setting of a component to be set arranged to cooperate with a setting in a bed of a piece of jewellery or timepiece.
The aims, advantages and features of the invention will be presented in the following description, with reference to the appended drawings wherein:
in the right-hand portion a variant with an inner tapping in an axial orifice of the setting makes it possible to insert a threaded tool, not shown, with a threading of diameter larger than that of this tapping to deform the deformable area, such a tapping may also make it possible to insert a threaded bushing here shown in the lower portion to ensure the radial holding after deformation of the deformable area; this same right-hand portion shows the square edge join between a truncated foot and the upper body;
in the left-hand portion it can be seen successively, by moving away from the axis: a variant with a blind axial orifice in the setting, another variant with an opening axial orifice, a variant with a recess in the lower body to attach the front support towards the peripheral area, a variant with a lower body in the shape of a skirt with a hollow truncated inner surface, a variant with the outer profile of such a skirt set back from the upper body, and a variant with the most outer profile of this skirt substantially at the radial of the upper body;
The invention relates to the setting of decorative elements, particularly but not limited to stones, on a piece of jewellery or timepiece. The invention more particularly relates to the case of such pieces of jewellery or timepieces, which include structural elements made of hard material, on which a setting must be performed. The manufacture of beds for receiving decorative elements is sometimes very difficult to achieve, according to the nature of the material concerned, and the method for manufacturing this structural element itself. For example, in a material such as a ceramic, or a sapphire, or similar, it is possible to produce beds including an undercut, and a cylindrical bed is already considered as a good result. The problem is amplified when both the decorative element to be set and the bed are of very small size. It should be noted that the use of a setting is unavoidable in such cases.
The aim of the invention is to reconcile the secured holding of the decorative element to be set in its setting, and of the setting in its bed, the correct geometrical positioning of the decorative element to be set and of its setting in relation to the bed, the control of the cost of the components, the aesthetic appearance of the assembly, and the implementation of the operation for installing the setting and for setting the decorative element by staff with average qualification.
The invention proposes to produce a setting of a particular shape, easy to machine, of very moderate cost, and of aesthetic similar to that of a standard setting.
To this end, the invention relates to a setting 1, including an upper body 15, extending around an axis A defining a direction for driving said setting 1 into a bed 8 of a piece of jewellery or timepiece 9. This upper body 15 includes at least one first surface 2, which is arranged to receive at least one component to be set 10, and at least one setting element 4 that is arranged to ensure the holding of this component to be set 10. This setting element 4 may be a setting claw, or similar. The setting 1 also includes, axially aligned with this upper body 15, a lower body 16 that includes a second front surface 6.
According to the invention, the setting 1 includes, at least between the upper body 15 and the lower body 16, at least one deformable area 7, which is plastically deformable under the action of a force at least axial imparted to the setting 1 in the driving direction, greater than a predetermined driving force, to bring the setting 1 into a stressed state.
In this stressed state, this at least one deformable area 7 is irreversibly deformed and/or fractured, or even in the form of a clot radially pushing back a peripheral surface 3 of the setting 1 towards a lateral wall of the bed 8 during the application of this force, or/and in the form of a fault radially pushing back the upper body 15 towards such a lateral wall during the application of this force.
More particularly, the upper body 15 includes such a peripheral surface 3, which is arranged to guide and hold the setting 1 in complementary cooperation with a bed 8 of a piece of jewellery or timepiece 9. The figures illustrate the most common case where the bed 8 is a female element, for example a bore or a pocket, and where the setting 1 is inserted into the bed 8; however the invention applies in the opposite case, not illustrated by the figures, where the bed 8 is a male element, and where the setting 1 covers this male element.
Thus the setting 1 includes this upper body 15, located on a first axial side (which is that which will be visible by the user of the piece of jewellery or timepiece 9), and extends around an axis A, which defines a direction for inserting and driving the setting 1 into a bed 8. Its first surface 2 is arranged for the substantially front reception of at least one component to be set 10, and at least one setting element 4 is located in the vicinity of the first surface 2, and is arranged to ensure the holding, particularly by setting, of a component to be set 10. This setting element 4 may be a setting claw, or similar.
At least one lower body 16 is located on a second axial side opposite the first axial side. The embodiments illustrated, not limiting, include a single lower body 16, which is enough to ensure a good holding of the setting 1 and of the decorative elements 10 that it carries.
More particularly, the second substantially front surface 6 constitutes an abutment surface that is arranged to, at the end of travel of inserting the setting 1 into or on a bed 8, cooperate in abutment bearing with an additional abutment surface 96 that includes this bed 8, or also with an intermediate component 191 inserted into this bed, as can be seen on the variant of
More particularly, the deformation of this at least one deformable area 7 is carried out under the action of a force at least axial imparted to the setting 1 in the driving direction after the start of abutment cooperation between the second substantially front surface 6 and a complementary abutment surface 96. “Force at least axial” means either a purely axial force such as traditional driving, or a force combining an axial movement and a rotational movement such as screwing.
More particularly, the at least one deformable area 7 has a breaking strength, in said driving direction, which is lower than that of said setting 1 in the vicinity of each at least one first surface 2, and in that at least one deformable area 7 includes, in the vicinity of the second surface 6, at least one neck of section smaller than the smallest section of the setting 1 in the vicinity of each first receiving surface 2.
More particularly, and as can be seen in certain figures, the setting 1 includes an axial orifice 12 along the axis A. In addition, as can be seen particularly in
More particularly, the setting 1 includes at least one such substantially radial orifice 13, which is perpendicular or oblique in relation to the axis A, and at least one neck extends between the axial orifice 12 on the one hand, and the substantially radial orifice 13 on the other hand.
More particularly, the axial orifice 12 and at least one radial orifice 13 are intersecting.
More particularly, and as can be seen particularly in
Such a foot can be produced easily by profile-turning or similar, the cost of the setting is thus controlled. A simple groove or a chamfer may be sufficient to define a weak or deformable area. Such a foot makes it possible to impose the location of friction surfaces between the setting 1 and the bed 8.
More particularly, the peripheral surface 3 is located between the first axial side and the second axial side, and at least one such foot 16 is arranged in the vicinity of the second surface 6.
More particularly, the axial orifice 12 passes through the upper body 15, and at least partially the foot 16.
More particularly, at least one radial orifice 13 passes through at least partially the upper body 15, and at least partially the foot 16.
More particularly, the foot 16 joins the upper body 15 at a secondary surface 17 where the section of the foot 16 is smaller than the section of the foot 16 at the second surface 6 that delimits it from the side opposite the secondary surface 17.
The holding is particularly good for a setting 1 thus drilled along its axis, and that includes a foot that fractures when it is bearingly driven on an opposing surface. This foot then rises in the hole 12 of the setting 1, and compresses the setting 1 in its bed 8. The decorative element 10 may then be set at any moment.
More particularly, the foot 16 includes a hollow 160 in its axial portion around the axis A.
More particularly, as can be seen in
In a first variant, the foot 16 and the upper body 15 form a one-piece assembly.
In a second variant, the foot 16 is distinct from the upper body 15 to which it is fastened.
More particularly, as can be seen in the right-hand portion of
More particularly, the setting 1 includes a removable bushing 14, which is arranged to be driven or screwed along the axis A to prevent the radial removal of the foot 16 after the deformation of the deformable area 7 and the cooperation of the setting 1 frictionally bearing with the bed 8.
More particularly, the upper body 15 includes, on the side opposite the first axial side, a first lip 150 deformable during a deformation of a deformable area 7 with a first radial portion 151 arranged to exert on the bed 8, in the stressed state of the setting 1, a friction force greater than that exerted by the rest of the upper body 15 or by the foot 16. This first lip 150 may particularly be produced, in a variant not illustrated, in the form of a simple skirt.
More particularly, the foot 16 includes, on the second axial side, a second lip 160 deformable during a deformation of a deformable area 7 with a second radial portion 161, that can be seen in a dotted line on the left-hand portion of
More particularly, as can be seen in
More particularly, the setting 1 includes an axial orifice 12 along the axis A, and at least one first surface 2 includes elementary receiving surfaces, for the substantially front reception of at least one component to be set 10, which are all distributed around the axial orifice 12, and the peripheral surface 3 includes elementary bearing surfaces that are all distributed around the axial orifice 12.
In one variant, at least one surface of the setting 1, which is not in contact with the bed 8 during the first installation driving, but which is pushed towards the wall of this bed 8 during the application of a force greater than a predetermined force, has a roughness greater than the rest of the setting, or/and is covered with a friction coating arranged to improve the hooking of the setting 1 in the bed from its expansion.
It is understood that the setting 1 according to the invention is designed for the most delicate use case, wherein the generatrices of the walls of the bed 8 are parallel to the insertion direction. The holding of such a setting is thereby only better if the bed 8 includes a slight undercut, such as on the particular examples of
The figures illustrate common cases of beds that have a symmetry of revolution, the invention can be absolutely applied to the production of shaped settings, to cooperate with shaped beds, for example of elliptical section or with polygonal contours, to receive stones according to the most diverse sizes: baguette, heart, cushion, emerald, lozenge, marquise, oval, pear, princess, or others.
The cooperation between the deformable areas and the bed may, either be exerted over the entire section of this bed, or be restricted to certain angular positions, as is the setting.
The invention also has the particular advantage of making it possible to install, on the same piece of jewellery or timepiece, decorative elements neither perfectly sized nor mutually identical, which is very often the case during the use of precious stones, or of pearls, for example.
This installation does not require temperature rise or contact phases with chemicals such as glues, likely to damage the decorative elements. The structure of the piece of jewellery or timepiece is thus perfectly preserved.
The setting according to the invention presents to the view of the user a closed contour, which contributes to the overall pleasing aesthetics of this piece.
The setting 1 may particularly be made of precious metal, particularly a gold, and/or silver, and/or platinum alloy, titanium alloy, stainless steel, copper alloy, or also aluminium alloy.
The invention makes it possible to adapt well to a piece of jewellery or timepiece that is produced in a hard substrate, such as a ceramic, like a zircon, sapphire, glass, or a cermet, metallic glass, amorphous material, or other.
The invention also relates to a setting assembly 100 including a piece of jewellery or timepiece 9, which includes at least one bed 8 arranged to receive such a setting 1. More particularly, this setting assembly 100 includes at least one component to be set 10 arranged to cooperate with such a setting 1.
More particularly, at least one bed 8 includes, substantially of revolution around a bed axis parallel to a direction for driving a setting 1 into a bed 8, an additional abutment surface 96, which is arranged to, during the application of a force at least axial imparted to a setting 1 in the driving direction, greater than a predetermined driving force, exert on a lower body 16 of this setting a radial component force to deform at least one deformable area 7.
This setting assembly 100 advantageously includes a table of correspondence, which defines the value of the predetermined driving force for each pair formed by on the one hand a bed 8 of a particular geometry in a piece of jewellery or timepiece 9 produced in a particular material, and on the other hand a setting 1 of a particular geometry and produced in a particular material. Each bed and setting pair advantageously defines a tightening, or even clearance, value, a force value for the first portion of the driving travel during which the setting does not undergo plastic deformation, and inevitably defines the value of the predetermined driving force beyond which the setting 1 is plastically deformed during its front contact with the bottom of the bed 8, or with an intermediate element 191 inserted between the bottom of the bed 8 and the second substantially front surface 6 of the setting 1. In one variant, this table of correspondence also lists, for each bed and setting pair, the nature and the limit dimensions of the decorative elements 10 that the setting 1 may carry, and, if necessary, the maximum limit value of the thrust force applicable on such a decorative element 10 during its installation and its setting, or even during the driving of the setting 1 into the bed 8 if the setter performs this operation with the decorative element 10 interposed between the first surface 2 for receiving the setting 1 and the driving tool, such as a setting bracket, an electric cylinder, or other. The use of an electric cylinder is advantageous due to the perfect control of low intensity forces such as applied in such settings, and to differentiate the first driving with a force lower than the threshold of the predetermined force, of the continuation of the driving with a force greater than the threshold of the predetermined force, while respecting a maximum force value guaranteeing the integrity of the decorative element 10.
The invention also relates to a method for producing a decorative assembly 100 with setting of a component 10 to be set arranged to cooperate with a setting 1 in a bed 8 of a piece of jewellery or timepiece 9.
According to this method, in a first preparation step 1000, a piece of jewellery or timepiece 9 is provided including at least one bed 8, a setting 1 corresponding to this bed 8, a table of correspondence defining the value of the predetermined driving force for the pair formed by this particular bed 8 and this particular setting 1. In a variant of this first step 1000 an intermediate component 191 of particular shape is inserted into the bottom of the bed 8, before making the setting 1 penetrate therein.
In a second step 2000 of driving and positioning the setting 1, the setting 1 and the bed 8 are aligned in the driving direction, and an axial force lower than the predetermined driving force is exerted on the setting 1, up to an axial abutment position in the bed or up to a predetermined axial position.
In a third step 3000, an axial force is exerted on the setting 1, or on a component to be set 10 that is positioned on a first surface 2 of the setting 1, which is greater than this predetermined driving force, to deform or break at least one deformable area 7, in a stressed state of the setting 1 where its peripheral surface 3 exerts on the bed 8 a friction force greater than that which it exerts thereon in the second step 2000 of driving and positioning the setting 1. It is understood that the application of such an axial force greater than this predetermined driving force may be carried out during the setting operation strictly speaking, after positioning a component to be set 10 on a first surface 2 of the setting 1, and during the application of a force on at least one setting element 4, for example the folding down of a claw, to enclose a decorative element 10 such as a stone.
In a fourth step 4000, the holding of the setting 1 in its bed 8 is checked.
In a fifth step 5000, at least one component to be set 10 is positioned on a first surface 2 of the setting 1, if it has not already been positioned during the third step 3000 above.
In addition, in a sixth step 6000, the setting of this at least one component to be set 10 with at least one setting element 4 is carried out or is completed.
More particularly, during the fourth step 4000 and after checking the holding of the setting 1 in its bed 8, a removable element 14 is inserted into the setting 1 to hold the deformable area in its deformed position.
Naturally, the first preparation step 1000 may include the production of at least one bed 8, in the case where such a bed was not able to be produced during the creation of the piece of jewellery or timepiece 9, or a reworking of this bed 8, particularly to produce a complementary abutment surface 96 according to a particular profile, for example a flat bottom, or also a male evolutive surface 91, or other. This preparation of a bed 8 of the piece of jewellery or timepiece 9 may also consist of introducing a shaped component including such a particular profile, for example, a simple ball, or other. For example, when the structure of the piece of jewellery or timepiece 9 is made of ceramic, this profile may be a form produced directly in ceramic.
In short, the invention makes it possible to produce a simple setting, easy to machine, easy to drive, and therefore economical to manufacture as well as install.
Number | Date | Country | Kind |
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21211740.2 | Dec 2021 | EP | regional |