Patent Grant
11771635
The present disclosure relates to mild shampoo compositions comprising alkyl polyglucoside, sclerotium gum, and a cationic polymer which deliver consumer desired wet conditioning and adequate viscosity for ease of use.
Human hair becomes soiled due to contact with the surrounding environment and from sebum secreted by the scalp. Soiled hair has a dirty feel and an unattractive appearance. Application and washing of the soiled hair with a shampoo composition can restore hair to a clean and attractive appearance by removing oil and other soils from the hair. Known shampoo compositions typically remove oil and soil from hair with anionic surfactants. Shampoos including anionic surfactants, however, may result in a number of undesirable characteristics such as poor quality of hair feel. Cationic polymers are commonly used in anionic surfactant cleansing compositions to provide moisturization and wet detangle to hair. Non-ionic surfactants are known for mildness on skin but are also known to be difficult to use in combination with charged polymers (cationic polymers) resulting in an unstable composition. Additionally, non-ionic surfactant systems are typically thin (low viscosity) and may need a thickening polymer to increase viscosity to prevent solution dripping off consumers hands prior to application to hair. However, the combination of cationic polymer and a commonly used thickener such as guar gum typically results in an unstable composition. Surprisingly it has been found that sclerotium gum with the unique triple helix structure is able to stabilize cationic polymer to achieve a single-phase stable cleansing composition delivering a range of desired wet conditioning benefit and desired viscosity.
It is desirable to have a shampoo composition that cleans without the use of anionic surfactants and also results in good in use physical properties, while also delivering the desired hair benefits. Surprisingly, it has been found that a shampoo composition comprising a nonionic surfactant alkyl polyglucoside, sclerotium gum, and a cationic polymer is phase stable and delivers consumer desired wet conditioning and adequate viscosity for ease of use.
A shampoo composition comprising 5 wt % to 35 wt % of alkyl polyglucoside; 0.15 wt % to 1.05% sclerotium gum, and 0.15 wt % to 1.05% of a cationic polymer, wherein the shampoo composition has a viscosity of 0.6 Pa-s to 20 Pa-s, and wherein the shampoo composition comprises less than 1 wt % ionic surfactant.
While the specification concludes with claims which particularly point out and distinctly claim the invention, it is believed the present disclosure will be better understood from the following description.
Definitions
In all embodiments of the present disclosure, all percentages are by weight of the total composition, unless specifically stated otherwise. All ratios are weight ratios, unless specifically stated otherwise. All ranges are inclusive and combinable. The number of significant digits conveys neither a limitation on the indicated amounts nor on the accuracy of the measurements. All numerical amounts are understood to be modified by the word “about” unless otherwise specifically indicated. Unless otherwise indicated, all measurements are understood to be made at 25° C. and at ambient conditions, where “ambient conditions” means conditions under one atmosphere of pressure and at 50% relative humidity. All such weights as they pertain to listed ingredients are based on the active level and do not include carriers or by-products that may be included in commercially available materials, unless otherwise specified.
As used herein, “molecular weight” or “Molecular weight” refers to the weight average molecular weight unless otherwise stated. Molecular weight is measured using industry standard method, gel permeation chromatography (“GPC”).
The term “charge density,” as used herein, refers to the ratio of the number of positive charges on a polymer to the molecular weight of said polymer.
The term “comprising,” as used herein, means that other steps and other ingredients which do not affect the end result can be added. This term encompasses the terms “consisting of” and “consisting essentially of.” The compositions and methods/processes of the present disclosure can comprise, consist of, and consist essentially of the elements and limitations of the invention described herein, as well as any of the additional or optional ingredients, components, steps, or limitations described herein.
The term “polymer,” as used herein, includes materials whether made by polymerization of one type of monomer or made by two (i.e., copolymers) or more types of monomers.
The term “suitable for application to human hair,” as used herein, means that the personal care compositions or components thereof, are acceptable for use in contact with human hair and the scalp and skin without undue toxicity, incompatibility, instability, allergic response, and the like.
The term “water soluble,” as used herein, means that the material is soluble in water. The material can be soluble at 25° C. at a concentration of 0.1% by weight of the water solvent, at 1% by weight of the water solvent, at 5% by weight of the water solvent, and at 15% or more by weight of the water solvent.
The terms “sulfate free” and “substantially free of sulfates” means essentially free of sulfate-containing compounds except as otherwise incidentally incorporated as minor components. The term “sulfated surfactants” means surfactants which contain a sulfate group. The term “substantially free of sulfated surfactants” means essentially free of surfactants containing a sulfate group except as otherwise incidentally incorporated as minor components.
Shampoo Composition
The shampoo composition as described herein provides consumer desired hair conditioning feel, and the shampoo composition is stable and has a viscosity which delivers a good in use experience. The shampoo composition comprises a nonionic surfactant such as an alkyl polyglucoside. The shampoo composition further comprises sclerotium gum, and a cationic polymer. This composition remains phase stable and has good viscosity and continues to provide desired lather for cleaning, quick rinse and clean hair feel. Suitable viscosity of the shampoo composition is 0.6 Pa-s to 20 Pa-S, 0.7 Pa-s to 18 Pa-s, 0.8 Pa-s to 18 Pa-s, and 1.0 Pa-s to 16 Pa-s.
The shampoo composition is substantially free of ionic surfactant, including sodium alkyl sulfate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, cocamidopropyl betaine, sodium lauroamphoacetate, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride and mixtures thereof. As used herein, substantially free of ionic surfactant means comprises less than 1 wt %, 0 wt % to 1 wt %, 0 wt % to 0.5 wt %, 0.1 wt % to 0.2 wt %, and alternatively 0 wt % to 0.3 wt % of ionic surfactant.
Non-Ionic Surfactant
The shampoo composition comprises 5% to 35% of the non-ionic surfactant alkyl polyglucoside. The shampoo composition comprises 5 wt % to 35 wt % of alkyl polyglucoside, 5 wt % to 25 wt % of alkyl polyglucoside, 7 wt % to 20 wt % of alkyl polyglucoside, and any combination thereof. The non-ionic surfactant can be a polyglucoside selected from decyl glucoside, caprylyl glucoside, caprylyl/capryl glucoside, undecyl glucoside, octyl glucoside, and mixtures thereof.
The non-ionic surfactant can be an alkyl polyglucoside having the structure:
where “R” is an alkyl or alkenyl group having 8 to 20 carbons, and “m” is degree of polymerization of from 1 to 5. Alternatively, the R is from 8 to 16 carbons, and alternatively wherein the R is from 8 to 12 carbons.
The non-ionic surfactant can be a decyl glucoside having the structure:
where R is a C10 alkyl or alkenyl group and the degree of polymerization (m) is 1.
Sclerotium Gum
The shampoo composition comprises 0.15 wt % to 1.05 wt % sclerotium gum, 0.15 wt % to 1.0 wt % sclerotium gum, 0.2 wt % to 0.8 wt % sclerotium gum, 0.4 wt % to 0.8 wt % sclerotium gum, and/or 0.4 wt % to 0.6 wt % sclerotium gum, and any combination thereof. Sclerotium gum is also called scleroglucan, and it is a branched polysaccharide. In some instances, the primary structure of the scleroglucan consists of glucose molecules linked by β-(1,3) linkage, and every third glucose molecule in the primary structure contains an additional glucose molecule linked by a β-(1,6) linkage. In certain solutions, scleroglucan forms a triple helix shape.
Cationic Polymer
A shampoo composition can include a cationic polymer for wet conditioning benefits. Suitable cationic polymers can include: (a) a cationic guar polymer, (b) a cationic non-guar galactomannan polymer, (c) a cationic starch polymer, (d) a cationic copolymer of acrylamide monomers and cationic monomers, (e) a synthetic, non-crosslinked, cationic polymer, which may or may not form lyotropic liquid crystals upon combination with the detersive surfactant, and (f) a cationic cellulose polymer. In certain examples, more than one cationic polymer can be included.
A cationic polymer can be included by weight of the shampoo composition at 0.05% to 3%, 0.075% to 2.0%, or at 0.1% to 1.0%. Cationic polymers can have cationic charge densities of 0.9 meq/g or more, 1.2 meq/g or more, and 1.5 meq/g or more. However, cationic charge density can also be 7 meq/g or less and alternatively 5 meq/g or less. The charge densities can be measured at the pH of intended use of the shampoo composition. (e.g., at pH 3 to pH 9; or pH 4 to pH 8). The average molecular weight of cationic polymers can generally be between 10,000 and 10 million, between 50,000 and 5 million, and between 100,000 and 3 million, and between 100,000 and 2.5 million. Low molecular weight cationic polymers can be used. Low molecular weight cationic polymers can have greater translucency in the liquid carrier of a shampoo composition. The cationic polymer can be a single type, such as the cationic guar polymer guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride having a weight average molecular weight of 2.5 million g/mol or less, and the shampoo composition can be substantially free of additional cationic polymers. As used herein, substantially free of additional cationic polymers means 0 to 0.05 of an additional cationic polymer.
Cationic Guar Polymer
The cationic polymer can be a cationic guar polymer, which is a cationically substituted galactomannan (guar) gum derivative. Suitable guar gums for guar gum derivatives can be obtained as a naturally occurring material from the seeds of the guar plant. As can be appreciated, the guar molecule is a straight chain mannan which is branched at regular intervals with single membered galactose units on alternative mannose units. The mannose units are linked to each other by means of β(1-4) glycosidic linkages. The galactose branching arises by way of an α(1-6) linkage. Cationic derivatives of the guar gums can be obtained through reactions between the hydroxyl groups of the polygalactomannan and reactive quaternary ammonium compounds. The degree of substitution of the cationic groups onto the guar structure can be sufficient to provide the requisite cationic charge density described above.
A cationic guar polymer can have a weight average molecular weight (“M.Wt.”) of less than 2.5 million g/mol, and can have a charge density 0.05 meq/g to 2.5 meq/g. Alternatively, the cationic guar polymer can have a weight average M.Wt. of less than 1.5 million g/mol, 150 thousand g/mol to 1.5 million g/mol, 200 thousand g/mol to 1.5 million g/mol, 300 thousand g/mol to 1.5 million g/mol, and 700,000 thousand g/mol to 1.5 million g/mol. The cationic guar polymer can have a charge density 0.2 meq/g to 2.2 meq/g, 0.3 meq/g to 2.0 meq/g, 0.4 meq/g to 1.8 meq/g; and 0.5 meq/g to 1.7 meq/g.
A cationic guar polymer can have a weight average M.Wt. of less than 1 million g/mol, and can have a charge density 0.1 meq/g to 2.5 meq/g. A cationic guar polymer can have a weight average M.Wt. of less than 900 thousand g/mol, 150 thousand to 800 thousand g/mol, 200 thousand g/mol to 700 thousand g/mol, 300 thousand to 700 thousand g/mol, 400 thousand to 600 thousand g/mol, 150 thousand g/mol to 800 thousand g/mol, 200 thousand g/mol to 700 thousand g/mol, 300 thousand g/mol to 700 thousand g/mol, and 400 thousand g/mol to 600 thousand g/mol. A cationic guar polymer has a charge density 0.2 meq/g to 2.2 meq/g, 0.3 meq/g to 2.0 meq/g, 0.4 meq/g to 1.8 meq/g; and 0.5 meq/g to 1.5 meq/g.
A shampoo composition can include 0.01% to less than 0.7%, by weight of the shampoo composition of a cationic guar polymer, 0.04% to 0.55%, by weight, 0.08% to 0.5%, by weight, 0.16% to 0.5%, by weight, 0.2% to 0.5%, by weight, 0.3% to 0.5%, by weight, and 0.4% to 0.5%, by weight.
The cationic guar polymer can be formed from quaternary ammonium compounds which conform to general Formula II:
where R3, R4 and R5 are methyl or ethyl groups, and R6 is either an epoxyalkyl group of the general Formula III:
or R6 is a halohydrin group of the general Formula IV:
wherein R7 is a C1 to C3 alkylene; X is chlorine or bromine, and Z is an anion such as Cl—, Br—, I— or HSO4
Suitable cationic guar polymers can conform to the general formula V:
wherein R8 is guar gum; and wherein R4, R5, R6 and R7 are as defined above; and wherein Z is a halogen.
Suitable cationic guar polymers can conform to Formula VI:
wherein R8 is guar gum.
Suitable cationic guar polymers can also include cationic guar gum derivatives, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Suitable examples of guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chlorides can include the Jaguar® series commercially available from Solvay S.A., Hi-Care Series from Rhodia, and N-Hance and AquaCat from Ashland Inc. Jaguar® C-500 has a charge density of 0.8 meq/g and a M.Wt. of 500,000 g/mole; Jaguar® C-17 has a cationic charge density of 0.6 meq/g and a M.Wt. of 2.2 million g/mol; Jaguar® C 13S has a M.Wt. of 2.2 million g/mol and a cationic charge density of 0.8 meq/g; Hi-Care 1000 has a charge density of 0.7 meq/g and a M.Wt. of 600,000 g/mole; N-Hance 3269 and N-Hance 3270, have a charge density of 0.7 meq/g and a M.Wt. of 425,000 g/mole; N-Hance 3196 has a charge density of 0.8 meq/g and a M.Wt. of 1,100,000 g/mole; and AquaCat CG518 has a charge density of 0.9 meq/g and a M.Wt. of 50,000 g/mole. N-Hance BF-13 and N-Hance BF-17 are borate (boron) free guar polymers. N-Hance BF-13 has a charge density of 1.1 meq/g and M.W.t of 800,000 and N-Hance BF-17 has a charge density of 1.7 meq/g and M.W.t of 800,000.
Cationic Non-Guar Galactomannan Polymer
The cationic polymer can be a galactomannan polymer derivative. Suitable galactomannan polymer can have a mannose to galactose ratio of greater than 2:1 on a monomer-to-monomer basis and can be a cationic galactomannan polymer derivative or an amphoteric galactomannan polymer derivative having a net positive charge. As used herein, the term “cationic galactomannan” refers to a galactomannan polymer to which a cationic group is added. The term “amphoteric galactomannan” refers to a galactomannan polymer to which a cationic group and an anionic group are added such that the polymer has a net positive charge.
Galactomannan polymers can be present in the endosperm of seeds of the Leguminosae family Galactomannan polymers are made up of a combination of mannose monomers and galactose monomers. The galactomannan molecule is a straight chain mannan branched at regular intervals with single membered galactose units on specific mannose units. The mannose units are linked to each other by means of β (1-4) glycosidic linkages. The galactose branching arises by way of an α (1-6) linkage. The ratio of mannose monomers to galactose monomers varies according to the species of the plant and can be affected by climate. Non-guar galactomannan polymer derivatives can have a ratio of mannose to galactose of greater than 2:1 on a monomer to monomer basis. Suitable ratios of mannose to galactose can also be greater than 3:1 or greater than 4:1. Analysis of mannose to galactose ratios is well known in the art and is typically based on the measurement of the galactose content.
The gum for use in preparing the non-guar galactomannan polymer derivatives can be obtained from naturally occurring materials such as seeds or beans from plants. Examples of various non-guar galactomannan polymers include Tara gum (3 parts mannose/1 part galactose), Locust bean or Carob (4 parts mannose/1 part galactose), and Cassia gum (5 parts mannose/1 part galactose).
A non-guar galactomannan polymer derivative can have a M. Wt. 1,000 g/mol to 10,000,000 g/mol, and a M.Wt. 5,000 g/mol to 3,000,000 g/mol.
The shampoo compositions described herein can include galactomannan polymer derivatives which have a cationic charge density 0.5 meq/g to 7 meq/g. The galactomannan polymer derivatives can have a cationic charge density 1 meq/g to 5 meq/g. The degree of substitution of the cationic groups onto the galactomannan structure can be sufficient to provide the requisite cationic charge density.
A galactomannan polymer derivative can be a cationic derivative of the non-guar galactomannan polymer, which is obtained by reaction between the hydroxyl groups of the polygalactomannan polymer and reactive quaternary ammonium compounds. Suitable quaternary ammonium compounds for use in forming the cationic galactomannan polymer derivatives include those conforming to the general Formulas II to VI, as defined above.
Cationic non-guar galactomannan polymer derivatives formed from the reagents described above can be represented by the general Formula VII:
wherein R is the gum. The cationic galactomannan derivative can be a gum hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, which can be more specifically represented by the general Formula VIII:
The galactomannan polymer derivative can be an amphoteric galactomannan polymer derivative having a net positive charge, obtained when the cationic galactomannan polymer derivative further comprises an anionic group.
A cationic non-guar galactomannan can have a ratio of mannose to galactose which is greater than 4:1, a M.Wt. of 100,000 g/mol to 500,000 g/mol, a M.Wt. of 50,000 g/mol to 400,000 g/mol, and a cationic charge density 1 meq/g to 5 meq/g, and 2 meq/g to 4 meq/g.
Shampoo compositions can include at least 0.05% of a galactomannan polymer derivative by weight of the composition. The shampoo compositions can include 0.05% to 2%, by weight of the composition, of a galactomannan polymer derivative.
Cationic Starch Polymers
Suitable cationic polymers can also be water-soluble cationically modified starch polymers. As used herein, the term “cationically modified starch” refers to a starch to which a cationic group is added prior to degradation of the starch to a smaller molecular weight, or wherein a cationic group is added after modification of the starch to achieve a desired molecular weight. The definition of the term “cationically modified starch” also includes amphoterically modified starch. The term “amphoterically modified starch” refers to a starch hydrolysate to which a cationic group and an anionic group are added.
The shampoo compositions described herein can include cationically modified starch polymers at a range of 0.01% to 10%, and/or 0.05% to 5%, by weight of the composition.
The cationically modified starch polymers disclosed herein have a percent of bound nitrogen of 0.5% to 4%.
The cationically modified starch polymers can have a molecular weight 850,000 g/mol to 15,000,000 g/mol and 900,000 g/mol to 5,000,000 g/mol.
Cationically modified starch polymers can have a charge density of 0.2 meq/g to 5 meq/g, and 0.2 meq/g to 2 meq/g. The chemical modification to obtain such a charge density can include the addition of amino and/or ammonium groups into the starch molecules. Non-limiting examples of such ammonium groups can include substituents such as hydroxypropyl trimmonium chloride, trimethylhydroxypropyl ammonium chloride, dimethylstearylhydroxypropyl ammonium chloride, and dimethyldodecylhydroxypropyl ammonium chloride. Further details are described in Solarek, D. B., Cationic Starches in Modified Starches: Properties and Uses, Wurzburg, O. B., Ed., CRC Press, Inc., Boca Raton, Fla. 1986, pp 113-125 which is hereby incorporated by reference. The cationic groups can be added to the starch prior to degradation to a smaller molecular weight or the cationic groups may be added after such modification.
A cationically modified starch polymer can have a degree of substitution of a cationic group 0.2 to 2.5. As used herein, the “degree of substitution” of the cationically modified starch polymers is an average measure of the number of hydroxyl groups on each anhydroglucose unit which is derivatized by substituent groups. Since each anhydroglucose unit has three potential hydroxyl groups available for substitution, the maximum possible degree of substitution is 3. The degree of substitution is expressed as the number of moles of substituent groups per mole of anhydroglucose unit, on a molar average basis. The degree of substitution can be determined using proton nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy (“1H NMR”) methods well known in the art. Suitable 1H NMR techniques include those described in “Observation on NMR Spectra of Starches in Dimethyl Sulfoxide, Iodine-Complexing, and Solvating in Water-Dimethyl Sulfoxide”, Qin-Ji Peng and Arthur S. Perlin, Carbohydrate Research, 160 (1987), 57-72; and “An Approach to the Structural Analysis of Oligosaccharides by NMR Spectroscopy”, J. Howard Bradbury and J. Grant Collins, Carbohydrate Research, 71, (1979), 15-25.
The source of starch before chemical modification can be selected from a variety of sources such as tubers, legumes, cereal, and grains. For example, starch sources can include corn starch, wheat starch, rice starch, waxy corn starch, oat starch, cassaya starch, waxy barley, waxy rice starch, glutenous rice starch, sweet rice starch, amioca, potato starch, tapioca starch, oat starch, sago starch, sweet rice, or mixtures thereof. Suitable cationically modified starch polymers can be selected from degraded cationic maize starch, cationic tapioca, cationic potato starch, and mixtures thereof. Cationically modified starch polymers are cationic corn starch and cationic tapioca.
The starch, prior to degradation or after modification to a smaller molecular weight, can include one or more additional modifications. For example, these modifications may include cross-linking, stabilization reactions, phosphorylations, and hydrolyzations. Stabilization reactions can include alkylation and esterification.
Cationically modified starch polymers can be included in a shampoo composition in the form of hydrolyzed starch (e.g., acid, enzyme, or alkaline degradation), oxidized starch (e.g., peroxide, peracid, hypochlorite, alkaline, or any other oxidizing agent), physically/mechanically degraded starch (e.g., via the thermo-mechanical energy input of the processing equipment), or combinations thereof.
The starch can be readily soluble in water and can form a substantially translucent solution in water. The transparency of the composition is measured by Ultra-Violet/Visible (“UV/VIS”) spectrophotometry, which determines the absorption or transmission of UV/VIS light by a sample, using a Gretag Macbeth Colorimeter Color. A light wavelength of 600 nm has been shown to be adequate for characterizing the degree of clarity of shampoo compositions.
Cationic Copolymer of an Acrylamide Monomer and a Cationic Monomer
A shampoo composition can include a cationic copolymer of an acrylamide monomer and a cationic monomer, wherein the copolymer has a charge density of 1.0 meq/g to 3.0 meq/g. The cationic copolymer can be a synthetic cationic copolymer of acrylamide monomers and cationic monomers.
Suitable cationic polymers can include:
(i) an acrylamide monomer of the following Formula IX:
where R9 is H or C1-4 alkyl; and R19 and R11 are independently selected from the group consisting of H, C1-4 alkyl, CH2OCH3, CH2OCH2CH(CH3)2, and phenyl, or together are C3-6 cycloalkyl; and
(ii) a cationic monomer conforming to Formula X:
where k=1, each of v, v′, and v″ is independently an integer of from 1 to 6, w is zero or an integer of from 1 to 10, and X− is an anion.
A cationic monomer can conform to Formula X where k=1, v=3 and w=0, z=1 and X− is Cl− to form the following structure (Formula XI):
As can be appreciated, the above structure can be referred to as diquat.
A cationic monomer can conform to Formula X wherein v and v″ are each 3, v′=1, w=1, y=1 and X− is Cl−, to form the following structure of Formula XII:
The structure of Formula XII can be referred to as triquat.
The acrylamide monomer can be either acrylamide or methacrylamide.
The cationic copolymer can be AM:TRIQUAT which is a copolymer of acrylamide and 1,3-Propanediaminium,N-[2-[[[dimethyl[3-[(2-methyl-1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]propyl]ammonio]acetyl]amino]ethyl]2-hydroxy-N,N,N′,N′-pentamethyl-, trichloride. AM:TRIQUAT is also known as polyquaternium 76 (PQ76). AM:TRIQUAT can have a charge density of 1.6 meq/g and a M.Wt. of 1.1 million g/mol.
The cationic copolymer can include an acrylamide monomer and a cationic monomer, wherein the cationic monomer is selected from the group consisting of: dimethylaminoethyl (meth)acrylate, dimethylaminopropyl (meth)acrylate, ditertiobutylaminoethyl (meth)acrylate, dimethylaminomethyl (meth)acrylamide, dimethylaminopropyl (meth)acrylamide; ethylenimine, vinylamine, 2-vinylpyridine, 4-vinylpyridine; trimethylammonium ethyl (meth)acrylate chloride, trimethylammonium ethyl (meth)acrylate methyl sulphate, dimethylammonium ethyl (meth)acrylate benzyl chloride, 4-benzoylbenzyl dimethylammonium ethyl acrylate chloride, trimethyl ammonium ethyl (meth)acrylamido chloride, trimethyl ammonium propyl (meth)acrylamido chloride, vinylbenzyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, diallyldimethyl ammonium chloride, and mixtures thereof.
The cationic copolymer can include a cationic monomer selected from the group consisting of: trimethylammonium ethyl (meth)acrylate chloride, trimethylammonium ethyl (meth)acrylate methyl sulphate, dimethylammonium ethyl (meth)acrylate benzyl chloride, 4-benzoylbenzyl dimethylammonium ethyl acrylate chloride, trimethyl ammonium ethyl (meth)acrylamido chloride, trimethyl ammonium propyl (meth)acrylamido chloride, vinylbenzyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, and mixtures thereof.
The cationic copolymer can be formed from (1) copolymers of (meth)acrylamide and cationic monomers based on (meth)acrylamide, and/or hydrolysis-stable cationic monomers, (2) terpolymers of (meth)acrylamide, monomers based on cationic (meth)acrylic acid esters, and monomers based on (meth)acrylamide, and/or hydrolysis-stable cationic monomers. Monomers based on cationic (meth)acrylic acid esters can be cationized esters of the (meth)acrylic acid containing a quaternized N atom. Cationized esters of the (meth)acrylic acid containing a quaternized N atom can be quaternized dialkylaminoalkyl (meth)acrylates with C1 to C3 in the alkyl and alkylene groups. The cationized esters of the (meth)acrylic acid containing a quaternized N atom can be selected from the group consisting of ammonium salts of dimethylaminomethyl (meth)acrylate, dimethylaminoethyl (meth)acrylate, dimethylaminopropyl (meth)acrylate, diethylaminomethyl (meth)acrylate, diethylaminoethyl (meth)acrylate; and diethylaminopropyl (meth)acrylate quaternized with methyl chloride. The cationized esters of the (meth)acrylic acid containing a quaternized N atom can be dimethylaminoethyl acrylate, which is quaternized with an alkyl halide, or with methyl chloride or benzyl chloride or dimethyl sulfate (ADAME-Quat). The cationic monomer when based on (meth)acrylamides are quaternized dialkylaminoalkyl(meth)acrylamides with C1 to C3 in the alkyl and alkylene groups, or dimethylaminopropylacrylamide, which is quaternized with an alkyl halide, or methyl chloride or benzyl chloride or dimethyl sulfate.
The cationic monomer based on a (meth)acrylamide can be a quaternized dialkylaminoalkyl(meth)acrylamide with C1 to C3 in the alkyl and alkylene groups. The cationic monomer based on a (meth)acrylamide can be dimethylaminopropylacrylamide, which is quaternized with an alkyl halide, especially methyl chloride or benzyl chloride or dimethyl sulfate.
The cationic monomer can be a hydrolysis-stable cationic monomer. Hydrolysis-stable cationic monomers can be, in addition to a dialkylaminoalkyl(meth)acrylamide, any monomer that can be regarded as stable to the OECD hydrolysis test. The cationic monomer can be hydrolysis-stable and the hydrolysis-stable cationic monomer can be selected from the group consisting of: diallyldimethylammonium chloride and water-soluble, cationic styrene derivatives.
The cationic copolymer can be a terpolymer of acrylamide, 2-dimethylammoniumethyl (meth)acrylate quaternized with methyl chloride (ADAME-Q) and 3-dimethylammoniumpropyl(meth)acrylamide quaternized with methyl chloride (DIMAPA-Q). The cationic copolymer can be formed from acrylamide and acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride, wherein the acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride has a charge density of 1.0 meq/g to 3.0 meq/g.
The cationic copolymer can have a charge density of 1.1 meq/g to 2.5 meq/g, 1.1 meq/g to 2.3 meq/g, 1.2 meq/g to 2.2 meq/g, 1.2 meq/g to 2.1 meq/g, 1.3 meq/g to 2.0 meq/g, and 1.3 meq/g to 1.9 meq/g.
The cationic copolymer can have a M.Wt. 100 thousand g/mol to 2 million g/mol, 300 thousand g/mol to 1.8 million g/mol, 500 thousand g/mol to 1.6 million g/mol, 700 thousand g/mol to 1.4 million g/mol, and 900 thousand g/mol to 1.2 million g/mol.
The cationic copolymer can be a trimethylammoniopropylmethacrylamide chloride-N-Acrylamide copolymer, which is also known as AM:MAPTAC and can have a charge density of 1.3 meq/g and a M.Wt. of 1.1 million g/mol. The cationic copolymer can be AM:ATPAC and can have a charge density of 1.8 meq/g and a M.Wt. of 1.1 million g/mol.
Synthetic Polymers
A cationic polymer can be a synthetic polymer that is formed from:
i) one or more cationic monomer units, and optionally
ii) one or more monomer units bearing a negative charge, and/or
iii) a nonionic monomer,
wherein the subsequent charge of the copolymer is positive. The ratio of the three types of monomers is given by “m”, “p” and “q” where “m” is the number of cationic monomers, “p” is the number of monomers bearing a negative charge and “q” is the number of nonionic monomers
The cationic polymers can be water soluble or dispersible, non-crosslinked, and synthetic cationic polymers which have the structure of Formula XIII:
where A may be one or more of the following cationic moieties:
where @=amido, alkylamido, ester, ether, alkyl or alkylaryl,
where Y=C1-C22 alkyl, alkoxy, alkylidene, alkyl or aryloxy,
where ψ=C1-C22 alkyl, alkyloxy, alkyl aryl or alkyl arylox,
where Z=C1-C22 alkyl, alkyloxy, aryl or aryloxy,
where R1=H, C1-C4 linear or branched alkyl,
where s=0 or 1, n=0 or ≥1,
where T and R7=C1-C22 alkyl,
where X−=halogen, hydroxide, alkoxide, sulfate or alkylsulfate;
where the monomer bearing a negative charge is defined by R2′=H, C1-C4 linear or branched alkyl and R3 is:
where D=O, N, or S;
where Q=NH2 or O;
where u=1-6;
where t=0-1; and
where J=oxygenated functional group containing the following elements P, S, C; and
where the nonionic monomer is defined by R2″=H, C1-C4 linear or branched alkyl, R6=linear or branched alkyl, alkyl aryl, aryl oxy, alkyloxy, alkylaryl oxy and β is defined as:
where G′ and G″ are, independently of one another, O, S or N—H and L=0 or 1.
Suitable monomers can include aminoalkyl (meth)acrylates, (meth)aminoalkyl (meth)acrylamides; monomers comprising at least one secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine function, or a heterocyclic group containing a nitrogen atom, vinylamine or ethylenimine; diallyldialkyl ammonium salts; their mixtures, their salts, and macromonomers deriving from therefrom.
Further examples of suitable cationic monomers can include dimethylaminoethyl (meth)acrylate, dimethylaminopropyl (meth)acrylate, ditertiobutylaminoethyl (meth)acrylate, dimethylaminomethyl (meth)acrylamide, dimethylaminopropyl (meth)acrylamide, ethylenimine, vinylamine, 2-vinylpyridine, 4-vinylpyridine, trimethylammonium ethyl (meth)acrylate chloride, trimethylammonium ethyl (meth)acrylate methyl sulphate, dimethylammonium ethyl (meth)acrylate benzyl chloride, 4-benzoylbenzyl dimethylammonium ethyl acrylate chloride, trimethyl ammonium ethyl (meth)acrylamido chloride, trimethyl ammonium propyl (meth)acrylamido chloride, vinylbenzyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, diallyldimethyl ammonium chloride.
Suitable cationic monomers can include quaternary monomers of formula —NR3+, wherein each R can be identical or different, and can be a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group comprising 1 to 10 carbon atoms, or a benzyl group, optionally carrying a hydroxyl group, and including an anion (counter-ion). Examples of suitable anions include halides such as chlorides, bromides, sulphates, hydrosulphates, alkylsulphates (for example comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms), phosphates, citrates, formates, and acetates.
Suitable cationic monomers can also include trimethylammonium ethyl (meth)acrylate chloride, trimethylammonium ethyl (meth)acrylate methyl sulphate, dimethylammonium ethyl (meth)acrylate benzyl chloride, 4-benzoylbenzyl dimethylammonium ethyl acrylate chloride, trimethyl ammonium ethyl (meth)acrylamido chloride, trimethyl ammonium propyl (meth)acrylamido chloride, vinylbenzyl trimethyl ammonium chloride. Additional suitable cationic monomers can include trimethyl ammonium propyl (meth)acrylamido chloride. Examples of monomers bearing a negative charge include alpha ethylenically unsaturated monomers including a phosphate or phosphonate group, alpha ethylenically unsaturated monocarboxylic acids, monoalkylesters of alpha ethylenically unsaturated dicarboxylic acids, monoalkylamides of alpha ethylenically unsaturated dicarboxylic acids, alpha ethylenically unsaturated compounds comprising a sulphonic acid group, and salts of alpha ethylenically unsaturated compounds comprising a sulphonic acid group.
Suitable monomers with a negative charge can include acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, vinyl sulphonic acid, salts of vinyl sulfonic acid, vinylbenzene sulphonic acid, salts of vinylbenzene sulphonic acid, alpha-acrylamidomethylpropanesulphonic acid, salts of alpha-acrylamidomethylpropanesulphonic acid, 2-sulphoethyl methacrylate, salts of 2-sulphoethyl methacrylate, acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid (AMPS), salts of acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, and styrenesulphonate (SS).
Examples of nonionic monomers can include vinyl acetate, amides of alpha ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids, esters of an alpha ethylenically unsaturated monocarboxylic acids with an hydrogenated or fluorinated alcohol, polyethylene oxide (meth)acrylate (i.e. polyethoxylated (meth)acrylic acid), monoalkylesters of alpha ethylenically unsaturated dicarboxylic acids, monoalkylamides of alpha ethylenically unsaturated dicarboxylic acids, vinyl nitriles, vinylamine amides, vinyl alcohol, vinyl pyrolidone, and vinyl aromatic compounds.
Suitable nonionic monomers can also include styrene, acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylonitrile, methylacrylate, ethylacrylate, n-propylacrylate, n-butylacrylate, methylmethacrylate, ethylmethacrylate, n-propylmethacrylate, n-butylmethacrylate, 2-ethyl-hexyl acrylate, 2-ethyl-hexyl methacrylate, 2-hydroxyethylacrylate and 2-hydroxyethylmethacrylate.
The anionic counterion (X−) in association with the synthetic cationic polymers can be any known counterion so long as the polymers remain soluble or dispersible in water, in the shampoo composition, or in a coacervate phase of the shampoo composition, and so long as the counterions are physically and chemically compatible with the essential components of the shampoo composition or do not otherwise unduly impair product performance, stability or aesthetics. Non limiting examples of suitable counterions can include halides (e.g., chlorine, fluorine, bromine, iodine), sulfate, and methylsulfate.
The cationic polymer described herein can also aid in repairing damaged hair, particularly chemically treated hair by providing a surrogate hydrophobic F-layer. The microscopically thin F-layer provides natural weatherproofing, while helping to seal in moisture and prevent further damage. Chemical treatments damage the hair cuticle and strip away its protective F-layer. As the F-layer is stripped away, the hair becomes increasingly hydrophilic. It has been found that when lyotropic liquid crystals are applied to chemically treated hair, the hair becomes more hydrophobic and more virgin-like, in both look and feel. Without being limited to any theory, it is believed that the lyotropic liquid crystal complex creates a hydrophobic layer or film, which coats the hair fibers and protects the hair, much like the natural F-layer protects the hair. The hydrophobic layer can return the hair to a generally virgin-like, healthier state. Lyotropic liquid crystals are formed by combining the synthetic cationic polymers described herein with the aforementioned anionic detersive surfactant component of the shampoo composition. The synthetic cationic polymer has a relatively high charge density. It should be noted that some synthetic polymers having a relatively high cationic charge density do not form lyotropic liquid crystals, primarily due to their abnormal linear charge densities. Such synthetic cationic polymers are described in PCT Patent App. No. WO 94/06403 which is incorporated by reference. The synthetic polymers described herein can be formulated in a stable shampoo composition that provides improved conditioning performance, with respect to damaged hair.
Cationic synthetic polymers that can form lyotropic liquid crystals have a cationic charge density of 2 meq/gm to 7 meq/gm, and/or 3 meq/gm to 7 meq/gm, and/or 4 meq/gm to 7 meq/gm. The cationic charge density is 6.2 meq/gm. The polymers also have a M. Wt. of 1,000 to 5,000,000, and/or 10,000 to 2,000,000, and/or 100,000 to 2,000,000.
Cationic synthetic polymers that provide enhanced conditioning and deposition of benefit agents but do not necessarily form lytropic liquid crystals can have a cationic charge density of 0.7 meq/gm to 7 meq/gm, and/or 0.8 meq/gm to 5 meq/gm, and/or 1.0 meq/gm to 3 meq/gm. The polymers also have a M.Wt. of 1,000 g/mol to 5,000,000 g/mol, 10,000 g/mol to 2,000,000 g/mol, and 100,000 g/mol to 2,000,000 g/mol.
Cationic Cellulose Polymer
Suitable cationic polymers can be cellulose polymers. Suitable cellulose polymers can include salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with trimethyl ammonium substituted epoxide, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 10 and available from Dwo/Amerchol Corp. (Edison, N.J., USA) in their Polymer LR, JR, and KG series of polymers. Other suitable types of cationic cellulose can include the polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with lauryl dimethyl ammonium-substituted epoxide referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 24. These materials are available from Dow/Amerchol Corp. under the tradename Polymer LM-200. Other suitable types of cationic cellulose can include the polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with lauryl dimethyl ammonium-substituted epoxide and trimethyl ammonium substituted epoxide referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 67. These materials are available from Dow/Amerchol Corp. under the tradename SoftCAT Polymer SL-5, SoftCAT Polymer SL-30, Polymer SL-60, Polymer SL-100, Polymer SK-L, Polymer SK-M, Polymer SK-MH, and Polymer SK-H.
Additional cationic polymers are also described in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 3rd edition, edited by Estrin, Crosley, and Haynes, (The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, Inc., Washington, D.C. (1982)), which is incorporated herein by reference.
Techniques for analysis of formation of complex coacervates are known in the art. For example, microscopic analyses of the compositions, at any chosen stage of dilution, can be utilized to identify whether a coacervate phase has formed. Such coacervate phase can be identifiable as an additional emulsified phase in the composition. The use of dyes can aid in distinguishing the coacervate phase from other insoluble phases dispersed in the composition. Additional details the use of cationic polymers and coacervates are disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 9,272,164 which is incorporated by reference.
Liquid Carrier for the Shampoo Composition
The shampoo composition also includes a liquid carrier. Inclusion of an appropriate quantity of a liquid carrier can facilitate the formation of a shampoo composition having an appropriate viscosity and rheology. A shampoo composition can include, by weight of the composition, 60% to 95% of a liquid carrier, 65% to 92%, 70% to 90% of a liquid carrier, and 75% to 90% of a liquid carrier.
A liquid carrier can be water or a miscible mixture of water and organic solvent. A liquid carrier can be water with minimal or no significant concentrations of organic solvent, except as otherwise incidentally incorporated into the composition as minor ingredients of other essential or optional components. Suitable organic solvents can include water solutions of lower alkyl alcohols and polyhydric alcohols. Useful lower alkyl alcohols include monohydric alcohols having 1 to 6 carbons, such as ethanol and isopropanol. Exemplary polyhydric alcohols include propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerin, and propane diol.
Optional Components
As can be appreciated, shampoo compositions described herein can include a variety of optional components to tailor the properties and characteristics of the composition. As can be appreciated, suitable optional components are well known and can generally include any components which are physically and chemically compatible with the essential components of the shampoo compositions described herein. Optional components should not otherwise unduly impair product stability, aesthetics, or performance Individual concentrations of optional components can generally range 0.001% to 10%, by weight of a shampoo composition.
Suitable optional components which can be included in a shampoo composition can include natural ingredients such as, tea extracts, and natural antioxidants such as grape seed extracts, natural hair conditioning oils, such as safflower oil, jojoba oil, argon oil, and combinations thereof.
Suitable optional components which can be included in a shampoo composition can include, deposition aids, conditioning agents (including hydrocarbon oils, fatty esters, silicones), anti-dandruff agents, suspending agents, viscosity modifiers, dyes, nonvolatile solvents or diluents (water soluble and insoluble), pearlescent aids, foam boosters, pediculocides, pH adjusting agents, perfumes, preservatives, chelants, proteins, skin active agents, sunscreens, UV absorbers, and vitamins.
Silicone Emulsions
The hair care composition can comprise 0% to 10%, 0.1% to 8%, 0.1% to 5%, 0.1% to 4%, 0.1% to 3%, 0.1% to 2%, 0.1% to 1.5%, and/or 0.1% to 1.2%, by weight, of one of more silicone polymers. The silicone polymer can be added into the hair care composition as an aqueous pre-emulsion. The silicone pre-emulsion can comprise one or more silicone polymers and an emulsifying system. The silicone polymer content in the silicone pre-emulsion can be 10%, by weight, to 70%, by weight, or 15%, by weight, to 60%, by weight, or 18%, by weight, to 50% by weight.
The silicone emulsion can have an average particle size of less than 500 nm, alternatively 300 nm, alternatively less than 200 nm, and alternatively less than 100 nm. The silicone emulsion can have an average particle size of 5 nm to 500 nm, 10 nm to 400 nm, and/or 20 nm to 300 nm. The silicone emulsion can be in the form of a nano-emulsion.
The particle size of the one or more silicones may be measured by dynamic light scattering (DLS). A Malvern Zetasizer Nano ZEN3600 system using He—Ne laser 633 nm may be used for the measurement at 25° C.
The autocorrelation function may be analyzed using the Zetasizer Software provided by Malvern Instruments, which determines the effective hydrodynamic radius, using the Stokes-Einstein equation:
wherein kB is the Boltzmann Constant, T is the absolute temperature, η is the viscosity of the medium, D is the mean diffusion coefficient of the scattering species, and R is the hydrodynamic radius of particles.
Particle size (i.e. hydrodynamic radius) may be obtained by correlating the observed speckle pattern that arises due to Brownian motion and solving the Stokes-Einstein equation, which relates the particle size to the measured diffusion constant, as is known in the art.
For each sample, 3 measurements may be made and Z-average values may be reported as the particle size.
The one or more silicones may be in the form of a nanoemulsion. The nanoemulsion may comprise any silicone suitable for application to the skin and/or hair.
The one or more silicones may include in their molecular structure polar functional groups such as Si—OH (present in dimethiconols), primary amines, secondary amines, tertiary amines, and quaternary ammonium salts. The one or more silicones may be selected from aminosilicones, pendant quaternary ammonium silicones, terminal quaternary ammonium silicones, amino polyalkylene oxide silicones, quaternary ammonium polyalkylene oxide silicones, and amino morpholino silicones.
The one or more silicones may comprise:
(a) at least one aminosilicone corresponding to formula (XIV):
R′aG3-a-Si(OSiG2)n—(OSiGbR′2-b)m—O—SiG3-a-R′a (XIV)
where:
G is chosen from a hydrogen atom, a phenyl group, OH group, and C1-C8 alkyl groups, for example methyl,
a is an integer ranging from 0 to 3, and in one embodiment a is 0,
b is chosen from 0 and 1, and in one embodiment b is 1,
m and n are numbers such that the sum (n+m) can range for example from 1 to 2 000, such as for example from 50 to 150, wherein n can be for example chosen from numbers ranging from 0 to 1 999, such as for example from 49 to 149, and wherein m can be chosen from numbers ranging for example from 1 to 2 000, such as for example from 1 to 10;
R′ is a monovalent group of formula —CqH2qL in which q is a number from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amine group chosen from the groups:
—NR″—CH2—CH2—N′(R1)2,
—N(R″)2,
—N+(R″)3A−,
—N+H(R″)2A−,
—N+2(R″)A−, and
—N(R″)—CH2—CH2—N+R″H2A−,
Where R″ can be chosen from a hydrogen atom, phenyl groups, benzyl groups, and saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as, for example, an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and A− is chosen from halide ions such as, for example, fluoride, chloride, bromide and iodide.
The one or more silicones may include those corresponding to formula (XIV) wherein a=0, G=methyl, m and n are numbers such that the sum (n+m) can range for example from 1 to 2 000, such as for example from 50 to 150, wherein n can be for example chosen from numbers ranging from 0 to 1 999, such as for example from 49 to 149, and wherein m can be chosen from numbers ranging for example from 1 to 2 000, such as for example from 1 to 10; and L is —N(CH3)2 or —NH2, alternatively —NH2.
Additional said at least one aminosilicone of the invention include:
(b) pendant quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (XV):
where:
R5 is chosen from monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups comprising from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as C1-C18 alkyl groups and C2-C18 alkenyl groups, for example methyl;
R6 is chosen from divalent hydrocarbon-based groups, such as divalent C1-C18 alkylene groups and divalent C1-C18 alkylenoxy groups, for example C1-C8 alkylenoxy groups, wherein said R6 is bonded to the Si by way of an SiC bond;
Q− is an anion that can be for example chosen from halide ions, such as chloride, and organic acid salts (such as acetate);
r is an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 20, such as from 2 to 8;
s is an average statistical value ranging from 20 to 200, such as from 20 to 50.
Such aminosilicones are described more particularly in U.S. Pat. No. 4,185,087, the disclosure of which is incorporated by reference herein.
A silicone which falls within this class is the silicone sold by the company Union Carbide under the name “Ucar Silicone ALE 56”.
Further examples of said at least one aminosilicone include:
c) quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (XVI):
where:
groups R7, which may be identical or different, are each chosen from monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups comprising from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as C1-C18 alkyl groups, for example methyl, C2-C18 alkenyl groups, and rings comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms;
R6 is chosen from divalent hydrocarbon-based groups, such as divalent C1-C18 alkylene groups and divalent C1-C18alkylenoxy, for example C1-C8, group connected to the Si by an SiC bond;
R8, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl group, a C2-C18 alkenyl group or a group —R6—NHCOR7;
X− is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or an organic acid salt (acetate, etc.);
r represents an average statistical value from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 100.
Such silicones are described, for example, in application EP-A-0 530 974, the disclosure of which is incorporated by reference herein.
Silicones falling within this class are the silicones sold by the company Eovnik under the names Abil Quat 3270, Abil Quat 3272, Abil Quat 3474 and Abil ME 45.
Further examples of said at least one aminosilicone include:
d) quaternary ammonium and polyalkylene oxide silicones
wherein the quaternary nitrogen groups are located in the polysiloxane backbone, at the termini, or both.
Such silicones are described in PCT Publication No. WO 2002/010257, the disclosure of which is incorporated by reference herein.
Silicones falling within this class are the silicones sold by the company Momentive under the names Silsoft Q.
(e) Aminofunctional silicones having morpholino groups of formula (XVII):
where A denotes a structural unit (a), (b), or (c) bound via —O—
Aminofunctional silicones of this kind bear the INCI name: Amodimethicone/Morpholinomethyl Silsesquioxane Copolymer. A particularly suitable amodimethicone is the product having the commercial name Wacker Belsil® ADM 8301E.
Examples of such silicones are available from the following suppliers:
offered by the company Dow Corning: Fluids: 2-8566, AP 6087, AP 6088, DC 8040 Fluid, fluid 8822A DC, DC 8803 & 8813 polymer, 7-6030, AP-8104, AP 8201; Emulsions: CE-8170 AF Micro Emulsion, 2-8177, 2-8194 Microemulsion, 9224 Emulsion, DC 1872 Emulsion, 939, 949, 959, DC 5-7113 Quat Microemulsion, DC 5-7070 Emulsion, DC CE-8810, CE 8401 Emulsion, CE 1619, Dow Corning Toray SS-3551, Dow Corning Toray SS-3552;
offered by the company Wacker: Wacker Belsil ADM 652, ADM 656, 1100, 1600, 1650 (fluids) ADM 6060 (linear amodimethicone) emulsion; ADM 6057 E (branched amodimethicone) emulsion; ADM 8020 VP (micro emulsion); SLM 28040 (micro emulsion); DM5500 emulsion;
offered by the Company Momentive: Silsoft 331, SF1708, SME 253 & 254 (emulsion), SM2125 (emulsion), SM 2658 (emulsion), Silsoft Q (emulsion)
offered by the company Shin-Etsu: KF-889, KF-867S, KF-8004, X-52-2265 (emulsion);
offered by the Company Siltech Silicones: Siltech E-2145, E-Siltech 2145-35;
offered by the company Evonik Industries: Abil T Quat 60th
Some non-limiting examples of aminosilicones include the compounds having the following INCI names Silicone Quaternium-1, Silicone Quaternium-2, Silicone Quaternium-3, Silicone Quaternium-4, Silicone Quaternium-5, Silicone Quaternium-6, Silicone Quaternium-7, Silicone Quaternium-8, Silicone Quaternium-9, Silicone Quaternium-10, Silicone Quaternium-11, Silicone Quaternium-12, Silicone Quaternium-15, Silicone Quaternium-16, Silicone Quaternium-17, Silicone Quaternium-18, Silicone Quaternium-20, Silicone Quaternium-21, Silicone Quaternium-22, Quaternium-80, as well as Silicone Quaternium-2 Panthenol Succinate and Silicone Quaternium-16/Glycidyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer.
The aminosilicones can be supplied in the form of a nanoemulsion and include MEM 9049, MEM 8177, MEM 0959, MEM 8194, SME 253, and Silsoft Q.
The one or more silicones may include dimethicones, and/or dimethiconols. The dimethiconols are hydroxyl terminated dimethylsilicones represented by the general chemical formulas
where R is an alkyl group (preferably R is methyl or ethyl, more preferably methyl) and x is an integer up to 500, chosen to achieve the desired molecular weight. Commercial dimethiconols typically are sold as mixtures with dimethicone or cyclomethicone (e.g., Dow Corning® 1401, 1402, and 1403 fluids).
According to another aspect of the silicone emulsion, the emulsion further includes an anionic surfactant that participates in providing high internal phase viscosity emulsions having particle sizes in the range 30 nm to 10 micron. The anionic surfactant is selected from organic sulfonic acids. Most common sulfonic acids used in the present process are alkylaryl sulfonic acid; alkylaryl polyoxyethylene sulphonic acid; alkyl sulfonic acid; and alkyl polyoxyethylene sulfonic acid. General formulas of the sulfonic acids are as shown below:
R16C6H4SO3H,
R16C6H4O(C2H4O)mSO3H,
R16SO3H, and
R16O(C2H4O)mSO3H.
Where R16, which may differ, is a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having at least 6 carbon atoms. Non-limiting examples of R16 include hexyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl, cetyl, stearyl, myristyl, and oleyl. ‘m’ is an integer from 1 to 25. Exemplary anionic surfactants include but are not limited to octylbenzene sulfonic acid; dodecylbenzene sulfonic acid; cetylbenzene sulfonic acid; alpha-octyl sulfonic acid; alpha-dodecyl sulfonic acid; alpha-cetyl sulfonic acid; polyoxyethylene octylbenzene sulfonic acid; polyoxyethylene dodecylbenzene sulfonic acid; polyoxyethylene cetylbenzene sulfonic acid; polyoxyethylene octyl sulfonic acid; polyoxyethylene dodecyl sulfonic acid; and polyoxyethylene cetyl sulfonic acid. Generally, 1 to 15% anionic surfactant is used in the emulsion process. For example, 3-10% anionic surfactant can be used to obtain an optimum result. The silicone emulsion may further include an additional emulsifier together with the anionic surfactant, which along with the controlled temperature of emulsification and polymerization, facilitates making the emulsion in a simple and faster way. Non-ionic emulsifiers having a hydrophilic lipophilic balance (HLB) value of 10 to 19 are suitable and include polyoxyalkylene alkyl ether, polyoxyalkylene alkylphenyl ethers and polyoxyalkylene sorbitan esters. Some useful emulsifiers having an HLB value of 10 to 19 include, but are not limited to, polyethylene glycol octyl ether; polyethylene glycol lauryl ether; polyethylene glycol tridecyl ether; polyethylene glycol cetyl ether; polyethylene glycol stearyl ether; polyethylene glycol nonylphenyl ether; polyethylene glycol dodecylphenyl ether; polyethylene glycol cetylphenyl ether; polyethylene glycol stearylphenyl ether; polyethylene glycol sorbitan mono stearate; and polyethylene glycol sorbitan mono oleate.
Non-Silicone Conditioning Agents
The conditioning agent of the hair care compositions described herein may also comprise at least one organic conditioning agents, either alone or in combination with other conditioning agents, such as the silicones described above. Non-limiting examples of organic conditioning agents are described below.
a. Hydrocarbon Oils
Suitable organic conditioning agents for use as conditioning agents in hair care compositions include, but are not limited to, hydrocarbon oils having at least 10 carbon atoms, such as cyclic hydrocarbons, straight chain aliphatic hydrocarbons (saturated or unsaturated), and branched chain aliphatic hydrocarbons (saturated or unsaturated), including polymers and mixtures thereof. Straight chain hydrocarbon oils can be C12 to C19. Branched chain hydrocarbon oils, including hydrocarbon polymers, typically will contain more than 19 carbon atoms.
b. Polyolefins
Organic conditioning oils for use in the hair care compositions described herein also include liquid polyolefins, including liquid poly-α-olefins and/or hydrogenated liquid poly-α-olefins. Polyolefins for use herein are prepared by polymerization of C4 to C14 olefinic monomers, alternatively C6 to C12.
c. Fatty Esters
Other suitable organic conditioning agents for use as a conditioning agent in the hair care compositions described herein include fatty esters having at least 10 carbon atoms. These fatty esters include esters with hydrocarbyl chains derived from fatty acids or alcohols. The hydrocarbyl radicals of the fatty esters hereof may include or have covalently bonded thereto other compatible functionalities, such as amides and alkoxy moieties (e.g., ethoxy or ether linkages, etc.). Other oligomeric or polymeric esters, prepared from unsaturated glyceryl esters can also be used as conditioning materials.
d. Fluorinated Conditioning Compounds
Fluorinated compounds suitable for delivering conditioning to hair as organic conditioning agents include perfluoropolyethers, perfluorinated olefins, fluorine-based specialty polymers that may be in a fluid or elastomer form similar to the silicone fluids previously described, and perfluorinated dimethicones.
e. Fatty Alcohols
Other suitable organic conditioning oils for use in the hair care compositions described herein include, but are not limited to, fatty alcohols having at least 10 carbon atoms, 10 to 22 carbon atoms, and alternatively 12 to 16 carbon atoms.
f. Alkyl Glucosides and Alkyl Glucoside Derivatives
Suitable organic conditioning oils for use in the hair care compositions described herein include, but are not limited to, alkyl glucosides and alkyl glucoside derivatives. Specific non-limiting examples of suitable alkyl glucosides and alkyl glucoside derivatives include Glucam E-10, Glucam E-20, Glucam P-10, and Glucquat 125 commercially available from Amerchol.
g. Polyethylene Glycols
Additional compounds useful herein as conditioning agents include polyethylene glycols and polypropylene glycols having a molecular weight of up to 2,000,000 such as those with CTFA names PEG-200, PEG-400, PEG-600, PEG-1000, PEG-2M, PEG-7M, PEG-14M, PEG-45M and mixtures thereof.
2. Emulsifiers
A variety of anionic and nonionic emulsifiers can be used in the hair care compositions. The anionic and nonionic emulsifiers can be either monomeric or polymeric in nature. Monomeric examples include, by way of illustrating and not limitation, alkyl ethoxylates, alkyl sulfates, soaps, and fatty esters and their derivatives. Polymeric examples include, by way of illustrating and not limitation, polyacrylates, polyethylene glycols, and block copolymers and their derivatives. Naturally occurring emulsifiers such as lanolins, lecithin and lignin and their derivatives are also non-limiting examples of useful emulsifiers.
Anti-Dandruff Actives
A shampoo composition can also contain an anti-dandruff agent. Suitable anti-dandruff agents can include pyridinethione salts, azoles, selenium sulfide, particulate sulfur, and mixtures thereof. Such anti-dandruff particulate should be physically and chemically compatible with the essential components of the composition, and should not otherwise unduly impair product stability, aesthetics or performance A shampoo composition can include a cationic polymer to enhance deposition of an anti-dandruff active.
a. Pyridinethione Salts
An anti-dandruff agent can be a pyridinethione particulate such as a 1-hydroxy-2-pyridinethione salt. The concentration of pyridinethione anti-dandruff particulates can range 0.1% to 4%, 0.1% to 3%, and 0.3% to 2% by weight of the composition. Suitable pyridinethione salts include those formed from heavy metals such as zinc, tin, cadmium, magnesium, aluminum and zirconium, particularly suitable is the zinc salt of 1-hydroxy-2-pyridinethione (known as “zinc pyridinethione” or “ZPT”), 1-hydroxy-2-pyridinethione salts in platelet particle form, wherein the particles have an average size of up to 20μ, up to 5μ, up to 2.5 Salts formed from other cations, such as sodium, can also be suitable. Pyridinethione anti-dandruff agents are further described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,809,971; 3,236,733; 3,753,196; 3,761,418; 4,345,080; 4,323,683; 4,379,753; and 4,470,982, each of which are incorporated herein by reference. It is contemplated that when ZPT is used as the anti-dandruff particulate, that the growth or re-growth of hair may be stimulated or regulated, or both, or that hair loss may be reduced or inhibited, or that hair may appear thicker or fuller.
b. Other Anti-Microbial Actives
In addition to the anti-dandruff active selected from polyvalent metal salts of pyrithione, a shampoo composition can further include one or more anti-fungal or anti-microbial actives in addition to the metal pyrithione salt actives. Suitable anti-microbial actives include coal tar, sulfur, whitfield's ointment, castellani's paint, aluminum chloride, gentian violet, octopirox (piroctone olamine), ciclopirox olamine, undecylenic acid and it's metal salts, potassium permanganate, selenium sulphide, sodium thiosulfate, propylene glycol, oil of bitter orange, urea preparations, griseofulvin, 8-hydroxyquinoline ciloquinol, thiobendazole, thiocarbamates, haloprogin, polyenes, hydroxypyridone, morpholine, benzylamine, allylamines (such as terbinafine), tea tree oil, clove leaf oil, coriander, palmarosa, berberine, thyme red, cinnamon oil, cinnamic aldehyde, citronellic acid, hinokitol, ichthyol pale, Sensiva SC-50, Elestab HP-100, azelaic acid, lyticase, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate (IPBC), isothiazalinones such as octyl isothiazalinone and azoles, and combinations thereof. Suitable anti-microbials can include itraconazole, ketoconazole, selenium sulphide and coal tar.
c. Soluble Anti-Dandruff Agent
A suitable anti-microbial agent can be one material or a mixture selected from: azoles, such as climbazole, ketoconazole, itraconazole, econazole, and elubiol; hydroxy pyriclones, such as piroctone olamine, ciclopirox, rilopirox, and MEA-Hydroxyoctyloxypyridinone; kerolytic agents, such as salicylic acid and other hydroxy acids; strobilurins such as azoxystrobin and metal chelators such as 1,10-phenanthroline. Examples of azole anti-microbials can include imidazoles such as benzimidazole, benzothiazole, bifonazole, butaconazole nitrate, climbazole, clotrimazole, croconazole, eberconazole, econazole, elubiol, fenticonazole, fluconazole, flutimazole, isoconazole, ketoconazole, lanoconazole, metronidazole, miconazole, neticonazole, omoconazole, oxiconazole nitrate, sertaconazole, sulconazole nitrate, tioconazole, thiazole, and triazoles such as terconazole and itraconazole, and combinations thereof. When present in a shampoo composition, the soluble anti-microbial active can be included in an amount 0.01% to 5%, 0.5% to 6%, 0.1% to 3%, 0.1% to 9%, OA % to 1.5%, OA % to 2%, and more 0.3% to 2%, by weight of the composition.
d. Selenium Sulfide
Selenium sulfide is a particulate anti-dandruff agent suitable for use as an anti-microbial compositions when included at concentrations of 0.1% to 4%, by weight of the composition, 0.3% to 2.5% by weight, and 0.5% to 1.5% by weight. Selenium sulfide is generally regarded as a compound having one mole of selenium and two moles of sulfur, although it may also be a cyclic structure that conforms to the general formula SexSy, wherein x+y=8. Average particle diameters for the selenium sulfide are typically less than 15 μm, as measured by forward laser light scattering device (e.g. Malvern 3600 instrument), less than 10 pm. Selenium sulfide compounds are described, for example, in U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,694,668; 3,152,046; 4,089,945; and 4,885,107, each of which are incorporated herein by reference.
e. Sulfur
Sulfur can also be used as a particulate anti-microbial/anti-dandruff agent. Effective concentrations of the particulate sulfur are typically 1% to 4%, by weight of the composition, alternatively 2% to 4%.
f. Keratolytic Agents
Keratolytic agents such as salicylic acid can also be included in a shampoo composition described herein.
g. Other
Additional anti-microbial actives can include extracts of melaleuca (tea tree), wintergreen (such as gaultheria procumbens leaf) and charcoal. As can be appreciated, shampoo compositions can also include combinations of anti-microbial actives. Suitable combinations can include octopirox and zinc pyrithione combinations, pine tar and sulfur combinations, salicylic acid and zinc pyrithione combinations, octopirox and climbasole combinations, and salicylic acid and octopirox combinations, and mixtures thereof.
Humectant
A shampoo composition can also include a humectant to lower the rate of water evaporation. Suitable humectants can include polyhydric alcohols, water soluble alkoxylated nonionic polymers, and mixtures thereof. The humectants, when included, can be used at levels by weight of the composition of 0.1% to 20%, and 0.5% to 5%.
Suitable polyhydric alcohols can include glycerin, sorbitol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethoxylated glucose, 1, 2-hexane diol, hexanetriol, dipropylene glycol, erythritol, trehalose, diglycerin, xylitol, maltitol, maltose, glucose, fructose, sodium chondroitin sulfate, sodium hyaluronate, sodium adenosine phosphate, sodium lactate, pyrrolidone carbonate, glucosamine, cyclodextrin, and mixtures thereof.
Suitable water soluble alkoxylated nonionic polymers can include polyethylene glycols and polypropylene glycols having a molecular weight of up to 1000 such as those with CTFA names PEG-200, PEG-400, PEG-600, PEG-1000, and mixtures thereof.
Other Optional Components
As can be appreciated, a shampoo composition can include still further optional components. For example, amino acids can be included. Suitable amino acids can include water soluble vitamins such as vitamins B1, B2, B6, B12, C, pantothenic acid, pantothenyl ethyl ether, panthenol, biotin, and their derivatives, water soluble amino acids such as asparagine, alanin, indole, glutamic acid and their salts, water insoluble vitamins such as vitamin A, D, E, and their derivatives, water insoluble amino acids such as tyrosine, tryptamine, and their salts.
A shampoo composition can include pigment materials such as inorganic, nitroso, monoazo, disazo, carotenoid, triphenyl methane, triaryl methane, xanthene, quinoline, oxazine, azine, anthraquinone, indigoid, thionindigoid, quinacridone, phthalocianine, botanical, natural colors, including: water soluble components such as those having C. I. Names. The compositions can also include antimicrobial agents which are useful as cosmetic biocides and antidandruff agents including: water soluble components such as piroctone olamine, water insoluble components such as 3,4,4′-trichlorocarbanilide (trichlosan), triclocarban and zinc pyrithione.
One or more stabilizers and preservatives can be included. For example, one or more of trihydroxystearin, ethylene glycol distearate, citric acid, sodium citrate dihydrate, a preservative such as kathon, sodium chloride, sodium benzoate, and ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (“EDTA”) can be included to improve the lifespan of a shampoo composition.
Chelants can also be included to scavenge metal and reduce hair damage caused by exposure to UV radiation. Examples of suitable chelants can include histidine and N,N′ ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (“EDDS”).
Method of Use
The shampoo compositions described herein can be used in a conventional manner for cleansing and conditioning of hair or skin. Generally, a method of treating hair or skin can include applying the shampoo composition to the hair or skin. For example, an effective amount of the shampoo composition can be applied to the hair or skin, which has been wetted with water, and then the composition can be rinsed off. Effective amounts can generally range 1 g to 50 g, and 1 g to 20 g. Application to the hair typically includes working the composition through the hair such that most or all of the hair is contacted with the composition.
A method for treating the hair or skin can include the steps of: (a) wetting the hair or skin with water; (b) applying an effective amount of the shampoo composition to the hair or skin, and (c) rinsing the applied areas of skin or hair with water. These steps can be repeated as many times as desired to achieve the desired cleansing and conditioning benefit.
A shampoo composition as described herein can be used to treat damaged hair. Damaged hair can include hair permed hair, oxidatively colored hair, and mechanically damaged hair.
The shampoo compositions can be used as liquids, solids, semi-solids, flakes, gels, in a pressurized container with a propellant added, or used in a pump spray form. The viscosity of the product may be selected to accommodate the form desired.
A. Cone/Plate Viscosity Measurement
The viscosities of the examples are measured by a Cone/Plate Controlled. Stress Brookfield Rheometer R/S Plus, by Brookfield Engineering Laboratories, Stoughton, Mass. The cone used (Spindle C-75-1) has a diameter of 75 mm and 1° angle. The viscosity is determined using a steady state flow experiment at constant shear rate of 2 and at temperature of 26.5° C. The sample size is 2.5 nil and the total measurement reading time is 3 minutes.
B. pH Method
First, calibrate the Mettler Toledo Seven Compact pH meter. Do this by turning on the pH meter and waiting for 30 seconds. Then take the electrode out of the storage solution, rinse the electrode with distilled water, and carefully wipe the electrode with a scientific cleaning wipe, such as a Kimwipe®. Submerse the electrode in the pH 4 buffer and press the calibrate button. Wait until the icon stops flashing and press the calibrate button a second time. Rinse the electrode with distilled water and carefully wipe the electrode with a scientific cleaning wipe. Then submerse the electrode into the pH 7 buffer and press the calibrate button a second time. Wait until the pH icon stops flashing and press the calibrate button a third time. Rinse the electrode with distilled water and carefully wipe the electrode with a scientific cleaning wipe. Then submerse the electrode into the pH 10 buffer and press the calibrate button a third time. Wait until the pH icon stops flashing and press the measure button. Rinse the electrode with distilled water and carefully wipe with a scientific cleaning wipe.
Submerse the electrode into the testing sample and press the read button. Wait until the pH icon stops flashing and record the value.
C. Appearance Method
Following batch completion, first transfer batch to storage container. Second, sample batch in a glass vial. Third, visually inspect the sample. If the background can be seen distinctly record the appearance as transparent. If the background can be seen but distorted or hazy, record as semi-transparent. If the background cannot be seen record as opaque.
D. Phase Stability Method
Following batch completion, first transfer batch to storage container. Second, sample batch in a glass vial. Third, visually inspect the sample. If sample is homogeneous record as one phase. If sample has two or more distinct phases record as phase separated including number of phases present. Distinct phases are visually different (changes in hazy, color, texture). These distinct phases either settle to the bottom, on top or are suspended.
E. Hair Switch Evaluation
This method describes how to evaluate finished product on hair switches. First, wet hair for 15 seconds. Second, apply shampoo to hair switch; 0.1 g of shampoo per gram of hair. Then assess different attributes of shampoo performance on the hair throughout wash. Move hands up and down hair switch for 30 seconds. During these 30 seconds the following are assessed.
Next, run water over switch to begin rinsing. Rinse for 30 seconds. During the rinse assess the Rinse Feel/Rinse Count Drag. As soon as wetting begins, stroke the hair from top to bottom with non-dominant hand between the thumb and two fingers with medium pressure. Count the number of strokes until drag/skip is felt in the middle portion of the hair switch consistently for 2 consecutive strokes. This number of strokes is recorded as the Rinse Count Drag. The strokes should be at a rate of 1 stroke per second to a total of 20 strokes (Scale: 1=quick rinse/clean feel to 20=slow rinse/dirty feel).
After the 30 second rinse stroke the hair from top to bottom with non-dominant hand between the thumb and two fingers with medium pressure to remove access water. Repeat stroke of hair switch and assess the clean feel of the hair. This is recorded as the Post Rinse—Clean Feel (Scale: 0=Low/Dirty to 10=High/Clean).
F. Puff Lather Method
First, start water to allow it to reach desired temperature 37.5-38 C. Next, fluff the puff and wet it under the water. Apply the shampoo in a circular motion over top of the puff. Then move puff with lathered product overtop of a beaker. Next squeeze puff in a half turn forward direction 10 times. Repeat with squeeze and half turn in a backward direction 10 times. Lastly, squeeze puff to get all remaining lather out. Measure the amount of lather generated in the beaker.
G. Cylinder Lather Method—Lather Volume
Obtain 100 ml of Water in a 1,000 ml graduated cylinder. Then add 0.5 g of shampoo. The graduated cylinder is on a rotating apparatus. Rotate the cylinder for 25 complete revolutions at a rate of 10 revolutions per 18 seconds to create a lather and stop in a level, vertical position. A timer is set to allow 15 seconds for drainage. After 15 seconds, the lather volume is measured by recording the lather height to the nearest 10 ml mark (including any water that has drained to the bottom on top of which the lather is floating).
H. Kruss Lather Method
KRUSS Dynamic Foam Analyzer is used to evaluate lather. Add shampoo and water into device 1(shampoo):9 (water) dilution. Air going through the chamber generates lather. The speed to lather, lather volume, and bubble size are recorded.
The shampoo compositions illustrated in the following Examples illustrate specific embodiments of the shampoo compositions described herein, but are not intended to be limiting thereof. Other modifications can be undertaken by the skilled artisan without departing from the spirit and scope of this invention. These exemplified embodiments of the shampoo composition provide consumer desired mildness, moisture, slip feel, cleaning and viscosity.
The shampoo compositions illustrated in the following Examples are prepared by conventional formulation and mixing methods, an example of which is set forth below. All exemplified amounts are listed as weight percent's and exclude minor materials such as diluents, preservatives, color solutions, imagery ingredients, botanicals, and so forth, unless otherwise specified. All percentages are based on weight unless otherwise specified.
1. PLANTAREN 2000 from BASF
2. JAGUAR EXCEL from Solvay
3. AMIGUM ER from Alban Muller
4. ACTIGUM CS 11 QD from Cargill
5. NUTRICOL XP3464 from FMC
6. SOLAGUM TARA from Seppic
7. SUPERCOL U2 from Ashland
As can be seen in the data for the Examples and Comparative Examples, the Comparative Examples C1-C4 contain gums in combination with cationic guar that are not phase stable. Comparative Example C5 is phase stable however it is too viscous. It is consumer desired that a Shampoo is less than 20 Pa-s for ease of spreading in hand. Comparative Example C6 is phase stable however low viscosity. It is consumer desired that a Shampoo is greater than 0.6 Pa-s to avoid running off the hands during use.
It will be appreciated that other modifications of the present disclosure are within the skill of those in the hair care formulation art can be undertaken without departing from the spirit and scope of this invention. All parts, percentages, and ratios herein are by weight unless otherwise specified. Some components may come from suppliers as dilute solutions. The levels given reflect the weight percent of the active material, unless otherwise specified. A level of perfume and/or preservatives may also be included in the following examples.
The dimensions and values disclosed herein are not to be understood as being strictly limited to the exact numerical values recited. Instead, unless otherwise specified, each such dimension is intended to mean both the recited value and a functionally equivalent range surrounding that value. For example, a dimension disclosed as “40 mm” is intended to mean “40 mm.”
Every document cited herein, including any cross referenced or related patent or application, is hereby incorporated herein by reference in its entirety unless expressly excluded or otherwise limited. The citation of any document is not an admission that it is prior art with respect to any invention disclosed or claimed herein or that it alone, or in any combination with any other reference or references, teaches, suggests, or discloses any such invention. Further, to the extent that any meaning or definition of a term in this document conflicts with any meaning or definition of the same term in a document incorporated by reference, the meaning or definition assigned to that term in this document shall govern.
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| Number | Date | Country | |
|---|---|---|---|
| 20220378680 A1 | Dec 2022 | US |
| Number | Date | Country | |
|---|---|---|---|
| 63276108 | Nov 2021 | US | |
| 63188517 | May 2021 | US |
