The present invention relates to a shoe including a fabric upper, and a method for producing the shoe.
When a shoe is produced, a last (shoe last), on which fabric for forming an upper is placed, is used to, for example, form the upper into a certain shape.
When an upper is shaped, it is important to conform the upper to a shape of a last. Specifically, in the case where the last has a shape taken from the shape of a foot of an ordering person, conforming the upper to the shape of the last is important in making the last well conform to the shape of the foot of the ordering person and thereby applying such a last for customization. For the last for mass produced shoes, conforming the upper to the shape of the last is important in eliminating variation in shape of the mass produced shoes. Regarding these important aspects, for example, if the upper is shaped with a gap relative to the surface of the last on a lateral side of the foot, the shoe would lack the ability of holding the foot of the wearer since the foot moves toward the lateral side during the wearing of the shoe. The thus caused gap may be filled with stuffing or the like, but the feeling of wearing may be deteriorated.
US 2017/325546 A discloses an upper that expands in a molding die. US 2018/125165 A discloses thermoforming for fabric. WO 2017/115806 A discloses a shoe upper material using a fiber sheet having a heat shrinkability. WO 2013/108506 discloses a knitted fabric using heat fusible yarns and being excellent in shape retention ability.
An object of the present invention is to provide a shoe including an upper that is easily conformed to a shape of a last when the upper is shaped, and a method for producing the shoe.
A shoe including: an upper that includes a first layer made of knitted fabric and a second layer made of knitted fabric arranged inside the first layer, wherein at least one of the first layer and the second layer includes first yarns and second yarns as yarns for forming the knitted fabric, wherein the first yarns have a heat shrinkability, wherein the second yarns have a higher fusion point than that of the first yarns, and wherein the at least one of the first layer and the second layer including the first yarns and the second yarns has a higher heat shrinkage rate in a width direction than in a longitudinal direction.
A method for producing a shoe that is the shoe according to claim 1, the method including: a joining step of joining the first layer and the second layer at least along outer edges of the first layer and the second layer to make an unshaped upper; a first shaping step of placing the unshaped upper on a last; and a second shaping step of heating the unshaped upper to make it conform to a shape of the last to thereby provide the shaped upper.
The present invention will be described by way of embodiments with reference to the drawings. Each of the right and left shoes 1 of this embodiment mainly includes a sole 2 and an upper 3, and the upper 3 is attached to the sole 2 as shown in
The first layer 31 includes first yarns 3f having a heat shrinkability and second yarns 3s having a higher fusion point than that of the first yarns 3f (specifically, the fusion point of a sheath 3f2 in the first yarns 3f made of a core-sheath material shown in
The first layer 31 is made of knitted fabric 3k that is formed by knitting yarns with certain gaps 3k1 opening through a surface (an outer surface when it is arranged in the shaped upper 3) (see
On the other hand, the second layer 32 may be made of knitted fabric having no gaps, but preferably made of knitted fabric 3k having gaps 3k1 in the same manner as the first layer 31. The knitting method of the knitted fabric is not specifically limited, but may be raschel knitting or tricot knitting, for example. The knitting method of the knitted fabric in this embodiment is double raschel knitting.
The first layer 31 has a higher heat shrinkage rate in the width direction Y (see
The second layer 32 of this embodiment includes only the second yarns 3s. The second layer 32 is arranged inside the first layer 31 (on the side close to the foot of the wearer during the wearing, and on the lower side in
Here, at least either the first layer 31 or the second layer 32 may include the first yarns 3f and the second yarns 3s as the yarns for forming the knitted fabric. In this embodiment, the first layer 31 includes both yarns to meet this condition. Contrarily, only the second layer 32 may include both yarns (that is, the case where the first layer 31 includes only the second yarns 3s, while the second layer 32 includes the first layer 3f and the second layer 3s) to meet this condition. In this case, since the second layer 32 including the first yarns 3f having a heat shrinkability is located on the inner side of the upper 3, the upper 3 can be more easily conformed to the last 4 and shaped by heating when it is placed on the last 4 than the configuration in which a layer including the first yarns 3f is located on the outer side of the upper 3. Further, both of the first layer 31 and the second layer 32 may include both yarns to meet the condition.
In this embodiment, the first yarns 3f having a heat shrinkability included in the first layer 31 may be made of a core-sheath material that is formed by integrating a core 3f1 (inner circumference part) with a sheath 3f2 (outer circumference part) as schematically shown in
The layer (the first layer 31 in this embodiment) including the first yarns 3f having a heat shrinkability can be formed of knitted fabric, 10% or more of which is composed of the first yarns 3f.
Because the upper 3 can be easily conformed to the shape of the last 4, the upper 3 is not given such a shape as to cause a gap relative to the surface of the last on the lateral side of the foot. Thus, the foot of the wearer is less likely to move during the wearing of the shoe and thereby the upper 3 provides excellent holding properties. Further, there is no need to fill the caused gap with stuffing or fitting, and thus the feeling of wearing is good.
Also, the upper 3 can be formed into a three layer structure further including a third layer 33 arranged inside the second layer 32, as shown by dashed-two dotted lines in
As the method for the reinforcement, sewing, needle punching, or hot melt sheet can be employed. The reinforcement is not limited to the upper 3 having a three layer structure with the third layer 33 arranged therein as described above, and may be applied to the upper 3 having a two layer structure composed of the first layer 31 and the second layer 32.
The upper 3 can include a body portion 34 located on the upper side in the vertical direction Z (see
The body portion can include a layer including the first yarns 3f and the second yarns 3s on at least an instep region of a forefoot portion. According to this configuration, the moldability of the instep region of the upper 3 can be improved. Herein, the “forefoot portion” is intended to be a portion of the human foot anatomy as encircled in
When the upper 3 includes the bottom portion 35, at least a part of the body portion 34 may have a multilayer structure (a two layer structure (shown by solid lines) or a three layer structure (additionally shown in dashed two doted lines) in this embodiment) including both of the first yarns 3f and the second yarns 3s as shown in
Contrary to the above, the bottom portion 35 may include the first layer 31. In this case, an additional layer may be further provided inside the first layer 31 (a layer similar to the third layer 33 of the body portion 34 shown in
Next, the description will be made for a method for producing the shoe 1 provided with the upper 3 including the first layer 31 and the second layer 32 layered on the first layer 31. This production method mainly includes a cutting step, a joining step, a first shaping step, a second shaping step, and a sole attaching step. In addition to the above, further steps can be appropriately added.
In the cutting step, the first layer 31 and the second layer 32 each having a sheet shape are cut into certain sizes and shapes to have the shapes as shown in
The shoe 1 is produced by taking a series of the aforementioned steps. Forming a shoe tongue, processing the wearing opening 11, installing eyelets for putting a shoelace (shoestring) therethrough, decorating with ornaments or tags, printing a logo, or attaching an insole (sockliner) may be appropriately performed during any of these steps or after all the steps have been finished.
The unshaped upper 3A has a mesh structure formed of the knitted fabric that is included in each of the first layer 31 and the second layer 32, and one of the first layer 31 and the second layer 32, which includes both of the first yarns 3f and the second yarns 3s, has a gap ratio greater than the other layer (the layer that does not include both of the first yarns 3f and the second yarns 3s). The “gap ratio” means a ratio of the area of gaps (openings) to the area of knitted fabric when the knitted fabric of the layers 31, 32 are viewed in plan view. By thus configuring the layer including the first yarns 3f and the second yarns 3s to have a gap ratio greater than the other layer, shrinkage of the unshaped upper 3A when the upper 3 is shaped by heating is hardly blocked, and the shaped upper 3B can be appropriately made in the second shaping step.
When the unshaped upper 3A includes the body portion 34 located on the upper side and the bottom portion 35 continuous with the lower end of the body portion 34, the bottom portion 35 can avoid application of heat in the second shaping step. In order not to apply the heat to the bottom portion 35, for example, a jig such as a shield having heat insulating properties, or the last 4 having heat insulating properties on its bottom surface can be used so that the heat reaching the bottom portion 35 can be reduced. Thus, the bottom portion 35 is hardly deformed when it is heated. Therefore, the bottom portion 35 can be precisely adhered to the sole 2 in the adhering step.
Separately from the aforementioned description, when the body portion 34 located on the upper side and the bottom portion 35 continuous with the lower end of the body portion 34 are provided, a bottom portion removing step for removing the bottom portion 35 by applying the heat to the bottom portion 35 in the second shaping step can be included after the second shaping step. In the bottom portion removing step, the bottom portion 35 having a shape as shown in the right side of
Even in the case where the heat is not applied to the bottom portion 35 as described above, the bottom portion 35 may be hardened when the adhesive agent is applied to the bottom portion 35. Thus, the bottom portion removing step may be performed even when the heat is not applied to the bottom portion 35.
According to the production method of this embodiment, the upper 3 is easily conformed to the shape of the last 4 when the upper 3 is shaped in the second shaping step. Thus, the shoe 1 that is conformed to the shape of the last 4 can be produced.
Hereinafter, configurations according to the embodiment of the present application and effects produced thereby will be summarized. The shoe of this embodiment includes an upper that includes: a first layer made of knitted fabric; and a second layer made of knitted fabric arranged inside the first layer, wherein at least one of the first layer and the second layer includes first yarns and second yarns as yarns for forming the knitted fabric, wherein the first yarns have a heat shrinkability, wherein the second yarns have a higher fusion point than that of the first yarns, and wherein the at least one of the first layer and the second layer including the first yarns and the second yarns has a higher heat shrinkage rate in a width direction than in a longitudinal direction.
According to this configuration, by providing the layer including the first yarns having a heat shrinkability, the layer including the first yarns and the second yarns is easily deformed when the upper is shaped by heating, so that the upper is easily conformed to the shape of the last.
It may be configured such that the first layer includes the first yarns and the second yarns, the second layer includes only the second yarns, and the heat shrinkage rate of the first yarns is two times or more the heat shrinkage rate of the second yarns.
According to this configuration, the ratio of the heat shrinkage rate of the first yarns to the heat shrinkage rate of the second yarns can be appropriately set, which enables to easily mold the upper by heating. Further, the second layer including only the second yarns is located inside the upper, which gives a good touch feeling to the foot of the wearer of the shoe.
It may be configured such that the first layer includes only the second yarns, the second layer includes the first yarns and the second yarns, and the heat shrinkage rate of the first yarns is two times or more the heat shrinkage rate of the second yarns.
According to this configuration, the ratio of the heat shrinkage rate of the first yarns to the heat shrinkage rate of the second yarns can be appropriately set, which enables to easily mold the upper by heating. Further, the second layer including the first yarns is located inside the upper, so that the upper is more easily conformed to the last when the upper is placed on the last.
It may be configured such that the knitted fabric that forms at least the first layer includes certain gaps opening through its surface, and a size of the gaps is longer in the longitudinal direction of the upper than in the width direction of the upper.
According to this configuration, the thus provided gaps can impart breathability and flexibility to the upper. Further, margins to shrink when the upper is shaped by heating are reliably provided in the upper.
It may be configured such that the upper includes a third layer arranged inside the second layer, wherein the third layer has a higher shrinkability than the first layer and the second layer.
According to this configuration, because of the good shrinkability of the third layer, the third layer is hardly wrinkled even after the upper is shaped by heating, so that an improved touch feeling can be given to the foot of the wearer of the shoe.
It may be configured such that the upper includes a body portion located on an upper side and a bottom portion continuous with a lower end of the body portion, and the body portion includes a layer including the first yarns and the second yarns in at least an instep region of a forefoot portion.
According to this configuration, the moldability of the instep region of the upper can be improved.
It may be configured such that the upper includes a body portion located on an upper side and a bottom portion continuous with a lower end of the body portion, the body portion includes a layer including the first yarns and the second yarns in at least a part thereof, and the bottom portion does not include a layer including the first yarns and the second yarns.
According to this configuration, the bottom portion is hardly deformed when the upper is shaped by heating.
The first yarns may be made of a core-sheath material.
According to this configuration, both of the shape retaining action by a sheath portion and the elastic action by a core portion can be simultaneously provided.
The method for producing a shoe of this embodiment is a method for producing a shoe that is the aforementioned shoe including: a joining step of joining the first layer and the second layer at least along outer edges of the first layer and the second layer to make an unshaped upper; a first shaping step of placing the unshaped upper on a last; and a second shaping step of heating the unshaped upper to make it conform to a shape of the last to thereby provide the shaped upper.
According to this configuration, a shoe that is conformed to the last can be produced.
A heating means used in the second shaping step may be steam heating.
According to this configuration, the entirety of the unshaped upper can be evenly heated.
It may be also configured such that the unshaped upper has a mesh structure formed of the knitted fabric included in the first layer and the second layer, and, and a gap ratio of one of the first layer and the second layer including the first yarns and the second yarns is greater than a gap ratio of the other layer.
According to this configuration, the layer including the first yarns 3f and the second yarns 3s is configured to have a gap ratio greater than the other layer, so that the shrinkage of the unshaped upper when the upper is shaped by heating is hardly blocked and the shaped upper can be appropriately made in the second shaping step.
It may be configured such that the unshaped upper includes a body portion located on an upper side and a bottom portion continuous with a lower end of the body portion, the method including a bottom portion removing step of removing the bottom portion after the second shaping step.
According to this configuration, the unshaped upper is conformed to the shape of the last in the second shaping step, and thereafter the bottom portion, which is likely to be hardened by heating when it is adhered to the sole, is removed from the shaped upper. Thereby, the shoe including the sole having an appropriate hardness can be produced.
According to this embodiment, the upper is easily conformed to the shape of the last when the upper is shaped by heating. Therefore, it is possible to provide a shoe including an upper that is easily conformed to the shape of a last when it is shaped, and a method for producing the shoe.
The present invention is described above by way of embodiments, but the foregoing description is merely an example. The shoe 1 and the method for producing the shoe 1 according to the present invention are not limited to the aforementioned embodiments. Thus, the shoe 1 and the method for producing the shoe 1 according to the present invention can be subjected to various modifications within the gist of the present invention. Such modifications include, for example, replacement of a part or omission of a part of a plurality of elements constituting the aforementioned embodiments, or appropriate combination of elements belonging to the separate examples. Further, the matters belonging to the common technical knowledge in relation to the shoe 1 or the method for producing the shoe 1 are also included.
Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind |
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PCT/JP2019/038481 | 9/30/2019 | WO |
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WO2021/064782 | 4/8/2021 | WO | A |
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