The present invention relates to sub-assemblies for forming shoes, kits of parts for forming shoes, and to shoes formed therefrom.
In this specification, the term “shoe” is used to refer to any relevant form of footwear including, without limitation, boots, slippers and sandals.
A shoe, particularly a ladies shoe, is conventionally formed on a last shaped to the required shape of the shoe. The shoe comprises, broadly, an upper, a base and a heel. For the purposes of this specification, the word “base” is used to refer to the portion of a shoe, excluding the heel, that lies below the wearer's foot. Accordingly, the base can consist of a number of components. Normally, the base will comprise an insole and a sole that lies under the insole and that contacts the ground when walking.
The method of manufacturing shoes and the materials involved has remained unchanged for many years. In the conventional method, the base is made up from an insole and an outer sole, with a rigid steel shank sandwiched therebetween. It is the shank which dictates the shape of the base, i.e. its form and curvature. Portions of the shoe upper can be sandwiched between the insole and the sole to connect the upper to the base. In general, the upper and the base (with the shank embedded therein) are formed together on a last and then the heel is attached by means of glue and nails. In more recent methods, the outer sole and heel may be injection moulded as a single piece, with an integral shank.
The shank bridges the heel breast and the ball tread. The shankpiece or shank spring can be made from wood, metal, steel, fiberglass or plastic and consists of a piece approximately 10 cm long and 1.5 cm wide. The shankpiece lies within the bridge or waist of the shoe, i.e., between the heel and ball of the foot, corresponding to the medial and lateral arches. The shankpiece reinforces the waist of the shoe and prevents it from collapsing or distorting in wear. The shoe designer will set the contour of the shank depending upon the height of the shoe being designed. Shoes with low heels, e.g., ballet pumps or shoes with wedged soles, do not require a shank because the torque between the rear and forefoot does not distort the shoe.
In the conventional methods of manufacture of a ladies shoe with a high heel, a different last must be used for each shoe depending on the height of the heel so that the base is shaped appropriately. The shape and contour of the shank must be fixed to ensure that the base of the shoe will not collapse when stood upon, the shoe is comfortable to wear and properly supports the foot. This requires the shank to extend underneath the foot from the heel to the ball of the foot. A comfortable configuration of the base is a flattened or elongate S-shape, the base being generally flat at the toe end and somewhat flexible, then the stiffening of the shank causing the base to curve upwardly and support the arch regions of the extended foot before flattening out over the heel, so as to distribute the wearer's weight over the heel. An uncomfortable configuration is one in which the base merely hinges or angles upwardly at the ball of the foot, without any support for the arch region or distribution of weight over the heel.
There have been various proposals for shoes having a replaceable or interchangeable heel. Such proposals allow the heel to be replaced when worn out, or simply changed to another heel of different shape, style or colour. However, if the heel is to be replaced with one of a different height then the shoe must accommodate this in some way.
It has been proposed to provide a shoe having a base which is hinged, for example at a position near to the ball of the foot, such that the base can be angled upwardly when a higher heel is used. This can give a wearer the choice and flexibility to convert a flat shoe into a higher heel shoe, and vice versa. Although the hinging of the base accommodates a higher heel, the embedded shank sets the shape of the base under the arch of the foot and this cannot be changed. The wearer's foot, however, would naturally adopt a different arched configuration in a higher heel shoe. As the arched shape of the base cannot change, the foot may not be properly supported in the higher heel mode and may tend instead to slide forward in the shoe, putting excessive pressure on the ball of the foot. This is clearly uncomfortable.
Such proposals assume that the base of a shoe can have the same shape in the arch region in both high and low heel positions. Therefore comprising the support and comfort provided. Furthermore, in particular where a conventional leather upper is used, there exists the problem that the backstrap or back part of the upper will dig into the wearer's heel when the shoe is tilted up to accommodate a higher heel.
According to a first aspect of the invention, there is provided a sub-assembly for forming a shoe comprising:
According to a second aspect of the invention, there is provided a sub-assembly for forming a shoe comprising:
According to a third aspect of the invention, there is provided a kit of parts for forming a shoe comprising:
According to a fourth aspect of the invention, there is provided a kit of parts for forming a shoe comprising:
According to a fifth aspect of the invention, there is provided a sub-assembly for forming a shoe comprising:
The foot supporting shape or configuration should be one which properly and comfortably supports a foot in use. The Applicants have appreciated that for maximum comfort the foot supporting configuration or shape of the base of a shoe must change depending on the height of the shoe's heel and that this must be taken into consideration when designing a shoe having a removable, replaceable, detachable or otherwise interchangeable heel. It is preferable that the foot supporting shape is an S-shape appropriate to the heel height. This provides the necessary support in the heel and arch regions of the foot, resulting in a comfortable shoe.
In preferred embodiments, the shaping part is elongate and extends at an acute angle to the heel part. Thus, the shaping part extends from the rear end of the flexible member, where the heel part provides support, towards the front end, shaping the flexible member under the heel and arch regions of the foot when the shoe is worn. The shaping member therefore acts in the same way as an embedded shankpiece in a conventional shoe, providing stability and stiffening the waist of the shoe into a shape suited to the height of the heel.
To ensure that the preferably elongate shaping part fully shapes the flexible member along its length, the flexible member is preferably provided with corresponding fastening means for fastening the shaping part along part of the length of the flexible member between the rear and front ends. However, the shaping part does not extend as far as the front end of the flexible member and no fastening means are provided at the front part of the flexible member. The regions of the flexible member lying under the toes and ball of a foot are therefore unshaped and unstiffened, ensuring the comfort of the shoe in wear.
The fastening means may take any suitable form such as clips, hooks, catches, snaps, a snap-fit mechanism or a mutually sliding arrangement. Preferably the shaping part is fastened to more than one part of the flexible member. This helps to ensure that the flexible member is forced to fully adopt the shape provided by the shaping part, so that the flexible member is stiffened into a particular foot supporting shape or configuration adapted to the height of the heel. The shape provided by the shaping part is preferably an S-shape. In preferred embodiments the shaping of the flexible member is achieved by the shaping part stiffening the flexible member into a particular foot supporting shape or configuration.
In some preferred embodiments an elongate channel extends along part of the length of the flexible member between the front end and the rear end. The elongate shaping part is suitably slidingly fastened into the channel. The channel may be open e.g. on any of its sides or closed. By fastening the shaping part into a channel, for example provided along the underside of the flexible member, the shaping part is held fastened along its length and thus provides optimal shaping and stiffening to the flexible member. This is important because it is the shape of the shaping part which causes the flexible member to adopt a particular foot supporting shape or configuration adapted to the heel height. Furthermore, such a mechanism provides a quick and simple way of fastening and unfastening a shaping part to a flexible member in a single manual operation. It is therefore particularly suitable to removable heel and shaping members; or separately removable shaping members.
In all of the above embodiments, it is the shaping part which causes the flexible member to adopt a particular foot supporting shape or configuration, tailored to the height of the heel part or member. Where the shaping member is separate to the heel member, it must always impart the flexible member with a foot supporting shape which is suited to the height of the heel member. Thus, the shaping member is always dependent on the heel member even if they are provided separately. The shaping part and heel part may be integrally moulded as one piece. This ensures that the shape of the shaping part is adapted to the height of the heel part. The shaping member may be separate from but attachable to the heel member. In a kit of parts including a heel member and a separate shaping member, manual selection of a shaping member suitable for the height of the heel member may be required. It may be that the heel height is adjustable without removing the heel. In such cases different shaping members will be required if the heel height changes substantially.
Rather than having a fixed, e.g., moulded, heel and shaping member, in some embodiments the shaping part may be pivotably connected to the heel part to allow the heel and shaping member to be folded for storage or transportation. This is particularly useful where a wearer wishes to carry a spare or alternative heel.
In other embodiments, the shaping member and heel member may be separate parts. Forming the shaping member and the heel member separately allows different materials to be used. For example, the shaping member can be moulded from a very stiff and strong composite material which allows precision moulding whereas the heel member can be moulded from a cheaper, lower performance plastics material which allows greater variety in the appearance of the heel member.
Any suitable kind of upper strap or other means may be provided in order that the shoe base can receive and retain a foot during wear. An upper strap with a flexible back strap is particularly advantageous as it allows the back strap to flex outwardly from the wearer's heel as the angle of the heel relative to the toe is decreased in a flatter shoe, making the shoe fit comfortably regardless of heel height.
FIGS. 2(a), 2(b) and 2(c) show a perspective view, a plan view and a side elevation respectively of the flexible member of
FIGS. 4(a), 4(b) and 4(c) show respectively the flexible member of
FIGS. 5(a), 5(b) and 5(c) show respectively the flexible member of
FIGS. 8(a), 8(b), 8(c) and 8(d) are a plan view, a perspective view, a side elevation and an end elevation of a flexible member for incorporation in a sub-assembly of kit for a shoe, in accordance with another embodiment of the invention;
FIGS. 18(a) and 18(b) are schematic side cross-sectional and plan views of a sub-assembly or kit for forming a shoe in accordance with another embodiment of the invention;
Referring first to
The flexible member 10 may be made from any suitable material but is preferably made from flexible plastics material such as a polyurethane material. As shown separated from the heel 11, the flexible member 10 is capable of a plurality of different configurations or shapes as, unlike a conventional shoe base, it does not include a stiffening shank. The flexible member will not, by itself, support a foot. A support member is required to provide the flexible member at least with torsional stability, even for a shoe with a low heel.
The heel 11 is formed in one piece from any suitable material such as wood or plastics and comprises a depending wedge-shaped ground-engaging portion 19 surmounted by an elongate support portion 20. A generally flat elongate flange 21 is spaced from an upper surface of the support portion 20 by a web 22.
The heel 11 is shaped so that the web 22 can be inserted in the slot 18 and when the end of the web 22 reaches the closed end of the slot 18, the flange 21 is located in the aperture 16 and fills the aperture. A portion of the lower wall 12 surrounding the aperture 16 rests on the upper surface of the support portion 20.
The effect of the mechanical interengagement of these parts is to provide the flexible member 10 with sufficient rigidity to allow it to support a foot. The flexible nature of the material of the flexible member 10 allows the lower wall 12 towards the toe end to angle itself relative to the portion of the lower wall 12 towards the heel end 15 to accommodate the presence of the heel 11. The flexible member 10 is thus formed into a foot supporting shape or configuration. The support portion 20 provides a flattened S-shape which is adapted to the height of the heel 11 and which causes the flexible member 10 to adopt a particular foot supporting shape adapted to that height.
As seen in
The flexible member 10 is shown in more detail in FIGS. 2(a), 2(b) and 2(c). From this it will be seen that the side wall 13 may be provided with an upwardly extending portion 24 at the heel end, two lateral projections 25 at the instep and a toe projection 26 at the toe end 14. These can be used to allow connection of the flexible member 10 to an upper. One form of upper will be described below with reference to FIGS. 6(a) and 6(b).
Referring next to FIGS. 5(a), 5(b) and 5(c), again the flexible member 10 and the upper 27 are as in FIGS. 3(a) and 3(b). However, as seen in
It will be seen, therefore, that in all the embodiments described above with reference to FIGS. 3(a), 3(b), 3(c), 4(a), 4(b), 4(c) and 5(a), 5(b) and 5(c), the conformable, flexible member 10 is only rendered sufficiently rigid to support a foot when engaged by the heel 11. The heel 11 and the support portion 20 provide both longitudinal and lateral support so allowing the shoe to be worn and to support a foot.
The lower wall 12 of the flexible member 10 can, in a finished shoe, form a sole that contacts the ground. Alternatively a sole can be applied to the lower surface of the lower wall 12. In either case an insole may be provided over the lower wall 12.
Referring now to
Referring now to
Referring next to
A heel 49 is formed by a suitably shaped hollow shell 50 containing a generally L-shaped support 51. The support 51 has a vertical limb 52 attached to a rear surface of the interior of the shell and a generally horizontal support limb 53 that projects along the length of the shell 50 at the top of the shell. As seen in
The shoe also includes a clip 55 and a W-shaped, spring latching member 56. The clip has an arcuate body 57 with a pair of straight parallel but spaced guide members 58 projecting from the concave interior surface of the arcuate body. The ends of the arcuate body are inwardly directed. The W-shaped spring latching member is provided with lugs 59 at respective opposite ends of the member 56
The shoe described above with reference to
The flexible member 40 is fixed to a flexible sole 60 of the shoe via the heel portion 41 and upper surfaces of the support members 46. The end of the horizontal support portion 53 of the L-shaped support 51 is then inserted into the aperture 47 in that support member 46 closest to the heel and is then pushed down through succeeding apertures until the arcuate portion 54 at the rear of the heel 49 engages the wall 42 on the heel portion 41 of the flexible member 40.
The W-shaped spring latching member 56 is held in the cavity defined beneath the heel portion 41 and the wall 42 with the lugs 59 projecting through respective apertures 61 in the wall 42.
As the arcuate portion 54 of the heel 49 engages the wall 43, the lugs 59 snap fit into respective apertures 62 in the heel. Thus, the heel 49 is firmly locked to the flexible member 40 and thus to the shoe. Finally, the guide members 58 in the clip 55 are inserted through respective slots 63 in the arcuate portion 54 of the heel 49 and embrace the support 51 with the arcuate body 57 filling the arcuate portion 54 of the heel 49 and the ends of the arcuate body 57 covering the lugs 59.
In this way, the shape of the horizontal support portion 53 of the L-shaped support 51 determines the curvature and shape of the flexible member 40 and thus determines the shape of the rear part of the sole 60 of the shoe. The horizontal portion 53 of the L-shaped support 51 therefore acts like the stiffening shank of a shoe of conventional construction. The support members 46 provide lateral support for the foot as does the heel with the load being passed down the vertical limb 52 of the L-shaped member 51 to the ground. The flexible member 40 is easy and inexpensive to produce and the heel 49 is rapidly and easily fitted to from the flexible member 40.
It will be appreciated also that the heel 49 can be readily detached from the flexible member 40 by removal of the clip 55, the inward depression of the lugs 59 and the retraction of the horizontal limb 53 from the apertures 47 in the support member 46.
The heel 49 can then be replaced with a new heel which may be the same as the heel 49 shown in
Referring now to
Parts common to
In this embodiment, the flexible member 65 is formed integrally with an insole 66.
The flexible member 65 and the insole 66 are preferably moulded from a suitable plastics material. As seen particularly in FIGS. 8(c) and 8(d), the flexible member 65 is provided with a spine 67 and seven support members 68. Each support member 68 has a central portion 69 of generally triangular cross-section including the aperture 47 and two lateral extensions 48 projecting to respective opposite sides of the length of the flexible member to support a load. The heel portion 41, wall 42 and head 43 are generally as described above with reference to
This embodiment co-operates with a heel 49 of the kind described above with reference to
In a finished shoe, a sole is provided under the insole 66 and the flexible member 65.
This arrangement is particularly advantageous because the flexible member 65 will be hidden by the upper of the shoe and only the lower sole (not shown) will be visible below the upper. The lower sole can be relatively thin, as it does not need to accommodate the flexible member, which may be aesthetically desirable in some types of shoe.
It will be seen, therefore, that in all the embodiments described above with reference to the drawings, there is provided a flexible upper, a flexible base member incorporating an attaching mechanism and a rigid heel with an integrated shank and attaching mechanism. The shank/heel locates and mechanically locks inside the flexible member but can be disengaged by the user allowing different styles and heights of shank/heel unit to be interchanged according to user requirements.
It will also be seen in the embodiments described above with reference to the drawings that a significant feature is the flexibility of the upper part of the shoe (that is the upper and the base) and the rigidity of the shank/heel unit. The latter component is inserted into the former where it locks, the shank component of the mechanism slotting into a cavity under the arch to provide support and fix the flexible member in position. As both the flexible member and the upper of the shoe are flexible, they will deform to fit the contour provided by the shank/heel unit.
The mechanism once locked is stable and cannot be disengage during normal use. The user can disengage the shank/heel unit by pressing a button in the mechanism and sliding the shank/heel unit out of the sole. The ability to interchange different heels of different heights is provided by the flexibility of the base and the upper which will adapt to different heights without the upper creasing or causing discomfort to the user.
It will be appreciated that the shank need not necessarily be integrated with the heel, as long as the shank is adapted to the height of the heel with which it is intended to be used. Such embodiments are described below.
Referring next to
For example, the stretchable material may be a knitted nylon and Lycra material which is heat mouldable. However, any suitable stretchable material may be used.
The inner 110 has a toe end 111 covered by a vamp overlay 112, which may be of leather and which may be stitched to the inner layer 110 of long suitable seams. As shown, the vamp overlay 112 is provided with a decorative strap 113 and bar 114 but these may be varied or omitted as required. A generally crescent-shaped toe-puff 115 is inserted between the vamp overlay 112 and the inner layer 110 and has an arcuate outer edge in register with the registering outer arcuate edges of the toe end 111 and the vamp overlay 112. The toe puff provides this area with stiffness and may be heat activatable. For example, it may be a non-woven injected resin material that is thermoplastic.
Referring next to
Referring next to
As seen in
The feature of the hinge and the movable back strap allow the upper described above with reference to the drawings to be used with heels of a variety of heights. In particular, it allows the upper to be used with the interchangeable heels of the kind described above with reference to the drawings although, this is not essential.
In addition, the inner layer 110 forms an inner surface to the upper assembly which has no seams except for the outwardly directed seam 118 at the back strap.
This makes the upper very comfortable for all wearers. The presence of the stiffeners in the form of the toe puff 115 and the back part stiffener 120 and the presence of the vamp overlay 112 and the counter overlay 124 nevertheless make the upper a more stylish shoe than footwear formed wholly from flexible material.
It will be appreciated that there are a large number of alterations that can be made to the arrangement described above with reference to FIGS. 9 to 13. The stiffening of the toe and heel need not be formed by a single toe puff 115 or back part stiffener 120; it could be provided by a number of separate parts. The vamp overlay 112 and the counter overlay 124 are optional. The toe puff 115 and the back part stiffener 120 could be visually acceptable by themselves, as described above with reference to
The articulated member 204 is made from a rigid plastics material which is chosen to impart the base member 200 with the required torsional stability whilst remaining lightweight. Other materials such as metal or wood may of course be used. The articulated member 204 is made up of a heel portion 214 at its rear end and a series of interconnected articulations 216 at its front end. The articulations 216 define an elongate channel 218 therethrough. It will be appreciated that the articulations 216 need not define a closed channel 218 as shown, but could instead define a channel open on any of its sides or indeed a series of interconnected clips.
The articulated member 204 is preferably embedded inside the flexible member 202, for example, by moulding the flexible member 202 around the articulated member 204. The articulated member 204 provides a degree of stiffness to the flexible member 202 at its rear end 210 and in the waist 209 of the shoe. The articulated member 204 does not extend to the front end 208 of the flexible member 202. It will be understood that in a shoe formed from the base member 200, the articulated member 204 provides torsional support underneath the wearer's heel and arch regions of the foot, so that the foot is comfortable and will not twist from side to side. However, the front end 208 of the flexible member 202 remains completely soft and conformable under the ball and toes of the foot.
Due to the presence of the articulations 216, the base member 200 is still flexible in that it is capable of adopting a plurality of different foot supporting shapes or configurations. This makes the base member 200 different to a conventional shoe base, which is stiffened into a particular foot supporting shape by an embedded rigid shank. It is only when the base member 200 is engaged with a heel and shaping member 220 that it is forced to adopt a particular foot supporting shape or configuration.
The exploded heel and shaping member 220 shown in
The elongate shaping part 222 extends at an acute angle to a metal pin 226 which projects downwardly from its rear end. The pin 226 is embedded into the plastics body of the heel part 228, thereby forming a single piece heel and shaping member 220. The pin 226 takes the place of the metal pin conventionally found at the core of a moulded plastics heel. The heel part 228 can be moulded to any desired shape and style and may have decorative pieces attached. The heel part 228 may also have a replaceable top piece (not shown) contacting the ground, as is conventional.
In a kit of parts, the base member 200 and heel and shaping member 220 may be provided as two separate parts. A latch 224 is used to fasten the heel and shaping member 220 to the base member 200 when the two are engaged. The base member 200 can be used with any number of different heel and shaping members 220 of different heights and styles, as will become apparent from the discussion below.
The shoe is formed from the flexible base member 200 and the removable heel and shaping member 220. A shoe upper 230 is shown schematically. It can be seen that the channel or passageway 218 is formed through the set of articulations 216. In other embodiments, the articulations 216 may not be provided by an embedded articulated member, instead they may be integrally moulded or otherwise provided in the base member 200, for example as shown in
In the heel and shaping member 220, the heel part 228 and the shaping part 222 are interconnected. The shaping part 222 may be pivotably connected to the heel part 228 to allow the heel and shaping member 220 to be folded for storage or transportation. Forming the shaping part 222 and the heel part 228 separately allows different materials to be used. For example, the shaping part can be moulded from a very stiff and strong composite material which allows precision moulding whereas the heel part can be moulded from a cheaper, lower performance plastics material which allows greater variety in the appearance of the heel part. In other embodiments, the heel and shaping member 220 may be integrally moulded as one piece, with a metal pin (not shown) embedded inside the heel part 228, as is conventional.
It can be seen that the back of the heel part 228 is provided with a latch 224 which locks the heel and shaping member 220 to the base member 200 when the two are engaged. The base member 200 is provided with a corresponding catch 225 at the back of the heel attachment portion 212.
In order to prevent the heel and shaping member 220 from disengaging during use, the latch 224 is fastened to the catch 225 at the rear end of the base member 200 as shown. The latch 224 is recessed into the heel part 228 when engaged, so as to prevent it from being knocked undone accidentally. A finger grip may be provided.
It will be appreciated that engagement of the stiff shaping part 222 with the flexible base member 200 causes the base member 200 to adopt a particular foot supporting shape or configuration. The shape of the shaping part 222 is adapted to the height of the heel part 228 and therefore stiffens the flexible member 200 in the S-shape appropriate to a heel of that height. The shaping part 222 extends underneath the arch regions of the foot in the waist of the shoe and as far as the ball of the foot. The front end of the base member 200 remains flexible.
The heel and shaping member 220 shown may be replaced with a different member having a different height heel. A user simply disengages the removable heel and shaping member 220 by releasing the latch 224 and pulling the members apart, so that the shaping part 222 is no longer fastened inside the channel 218. The flexible base member 200 is again conformable into any desired shape. Another heel and shaping member having a different height heel will have a corresponding shaping part with a different S-shape adapted to that heel height. The flexible base member 200 will be stiffened into a different foot supporting shape or configuration when another heel and shaping member is used. The result is a shoe having readily removable and interchangeable heel parts, which is comfortable and supportive regardless of the height of the heel, as the heel and shaping member sets the base member into the foot supporting shape or configuration appropriate to each heel.
FIGS. 19(a), 19(b) and 19(c) show the formation of shoes having different height heels using a sub-assembly or kit with different height heel and shaping members as shown in
In
In
In
It will be appreciated that any number of different removable heel members may be used interchangeably with the flexible base member 200, each heel member shaping the flexible member and causing it to adopt a different foot supporting shape or configuration suited to the heel.
In
It is not essential that the heel and shaping parts are provided by the same member, as is apparent from
A kit of parts for forming a shoe may include a number of different heel members of different styles and/or heights, a shaping member adapted to each height of heel in the kit, and a flexible base member. A user chooses a heel member and then selects the correct shaping member for that height of heel. A single shaping member may be suitable for a number of heels of different styles and colours, but all of the same height. A shoe is then assembled using the base member, the correct shaping member and the desired heel member. The heel member may by attachable to the base member independently of the shaping member. This would allow different shapes and styles of heel to have their own attachment mechanism suited to their shape. Alternatively, the manual engagement or fastening of the shaping member to the base member may cause the heel member to become attached as well. This can minimise and simplify the steps involved in assembling a shoe.
Some further embodiments will now be described.
In
FIGS. 26(c) and 26(d) are similar to FIGS. 26(a) and 26(b), but illustrate an alternative dovetail-type connection.
In
In
In
It will be understood that any of the fastening arrangements described above with respect to
Number | Date | Country | Kind |
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0009009.2 | Apr 2000 | GB | national |
0015889.9 | Jun 2000 | GB | national |
0026670.0 | Nov 2000 | GB | national |
0108985.3 | Apr 2001 | GB | national |
This application is a continuation-in-part of U.S. patent application Ser. No. 10/257,589 filed Jan. 21, 2003, pending, which constitutes a U.S. National stage application claiming priority from PCT/GB01/01663 filed Apr. 12, 2001.
Number | Date | Country | |
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Parent | 10257589 | Jan 2003 | US |
Child | 11699339 | Jan 2007 | US |