Skincare compositions

Information

  • Patent Grant
  • 11135457
  • Patent Number
    11,135,457
  • Date Filed
    Wednesday, January 15, 2020
    4 years ago
  • Date Issued
    Tuesday, October 5, 2021
    2 years ago
Abstract
This invention relates to skincare compositions, in particular compositions effective in the treatment of acne vulgaris, and to methods of treatment of the skin that involve the application of such compositions, wherein the compositions comprise salicylic acid or a salt thereof in combination with at least two actives selected from the group consisting of lactic acid or a salt thereof; glycyrrhizinic acid or a salt or a derivative thereof; bisabolol; cetylhydroxyproline palmitamide; allantoin; niacinamide; and Epilobium angustifolium extract.
Description
FIELD OF THE INVENTION

This invention relates to skincare compositions, in particular compositions effective in the treatment of acne vulgaris, and to methods of treatment of the skin that involve the application of such compositions.


BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Acne vulgaris (acne) is a chronic inflammatory condition of the pilosebaceous units of the skin, which is particularly prevalent in adolescents. The condition generally causes the formation, on the skin, of comedones, red papules, pustules and sometimes cysts. This is unsightly and furthermore, if untreated, acne can lead to scarring of the skin. The major causes of acne are thought to be an increase in sebum production, an increased presence of Propionibacterium acne (P. acne), blockage of the pilosebaceus duct and the production of inflammation.


Salicylic acid is known to be effective in the treatment of acne. It is a topical keratolytic agent that works by dissolving the intercellular cement that holds epithelial cells together. Salicylic acid is used in a variety of over-the-counter acne remedies.


In order to improve the efficacy of topical acne treatments, it is desired to formulate salicylic acid with one or more control agents to regulate the inflammatory effects sometimes observed, such as local skin peeling and discomfort such as burning and skin reddening.


Surprisingly, it has now been found that skincare compositions comprising salicylic acid and at least two or more chosen actives have improved therapeutic efficacy in the treatment of acne. Said skincare compositions have both the ability to treat acne and reduce the appearance of redness on the skin.


BRIEF SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

Thus, according to a first aspect of the invention there is provided a skincare composition suitable for topical application to the skin, the composition comprising salicylic acid or a salt thereof, combined with at least 2 actives selected from the group consisting of: lactic acid or a salt thereof; glycyrrhizinic acid or a salt or derivatives thereof; bisabolol; cetylhydroxyproline palmitamide; allantoin; niacinamide; and, Canadian Willowherb (Epilobium angustifolium) extract.


In another aspect, the disclosure provides for a cosmetic method for improving the appearance of skin afflicted by acne lesions, said method comprising reducing the redness of said lesions by the topical application of a skincare composition by the topical application of a skincare composition consisting of salicylic acid or a salt thereof in a concentration of 1 wt % to 3 wt %; niacinamide in a concentration of 0.5 wt % to 5 wt %; one or more actives selected from the group consisting of glycyrrhizinic acid or a salt thereof; cetylhydroxyproline palmitamide; lactic acid or a salt thereof; and bisabolol; Epilobium angustifolium extract in a concentration of 0 to 1 wt %; a chelating agent in a concentration of 0.01 wt % to 0.1 wt %; a gelling/thickening agent in a concentration of 0.1 wt % to 5 wt %; an emulsifier in a concentration of 0.75 wt % to 12 wt %; a mixed solvent system comprising water and a co-solvent wherein the co-solvent is present in a concentration of 0 wt % to about 5 wt % and the water forms the remainder of the composition; an emollient in a concentration of 0 wt % to 8 wt %; a humectant or moisturizer in a concentration of 0 wt % to 10 wt %; a surfactant in a concentration of 0 wt % to about 38 wt %; a preservative in a concentration of 0 wt % to 0.3 wt %; an abrasive in a concentration of 0 wt % to 8.5 wt %; an opacifying agent in a concentration of 0 wt % to 15 wt %; a pH adjuster in a concentration of 0 wt % to 3 wt %; a conditioning agent in a concentration of 0 wt % to 1.5 wt %; a perfume in a concentration of 0 wt % to 0.35 wt %; and a coloring in a concentration of 0 wt % to 0.00315 wt %, wherein the composition has a viscosity of from about 10,000 mPa/s to about 200,000 mPa/s, wherein the glycyrrhizinic acid or a salt thereof, if present, is in a concentration of 0.01 wt % to 0.5 wt %, wherein the cetylhydroxyproline palmitamide, if present, is in a concentration of 0.01 wt % to 0.5 wt %, wherein the lactic acid or a salt thereof, if present, is in a concentration of 1 wt % to 3 wt %, and wherein the bisabolol, if present, is in a concentration of 0.001 wt % to 0.5 wt %.


In any of the embodiments disclosed herein, the concentration of salicylic acid or a salt thereof can be about 2 wt %. In any of the embodiments disclosed herein, the concentration of glycyrrhizinic acid or a salt thereof can be 0.05 wt % to 0.1 wt %. In any of the embodiments disclosed herein, the concentration of cetylhydroxyproline palmitamide can be about 0.025 wt %. In any of the embodiments disclosed herein, the concentration of lactic acid or a salt thereof can be about 2 wt %. In any of the embodiments disclosed herein, the concentration of bisabolol can be 0.02 wt % to 0.5 wt %. In any of the embodiments disclosed herein, the concentration of bisabolol can be about 0.025 wt %. In any of the embodiments disclosed herein, the concentration of niacinamide can be 0.5 wt % to 5 wt %. In any of the embodiments disclosed herein, the concentration of niacinamide can be about 2 wt %. In any of the embodiments disclosed herein, the concentration of Epilobium angustifolium can be 0.001 wt % to 1 wt %. In any of the embodiments disclosed herein, the concentration of Epilobium angustifolium can be 0.01 wt % to 0.5 wt %.


In another aspect, the invention provides an article comprising a fibrous substrate configured for topical application of any of the skincare compositions described herein. In any of the embodiments disclosed herein, the fibrous substrate can be selected from the group consisting of cellulose fibers, cotton fibers, and a mixture thereof.


In another aspect, the invention provides a method for the treatment of acne comprising topically applying any of the skincare compositions described herein to the skin of a patient. In any of the embodiments disclosed herein, the method can be a cosmetic method. In any of the embodiments disclosed herein, the method can be a therapeutic method.


In another aspect, the invention provides for the use of any of the skincare compositions described herein for the treatment of acne by topical application of the composition to the skin.


In another aspect, the invention provides a method for reducing irritancy associated with the topical application of a skincare composition comprising reducing the irritancy by the topical application of any of the skincare compositions described herein.


In another aspect, the invention provides a cosmetic method for improving the appearance of skin afflicted by acne lesions comprising reducing the redness of lesions by the topical application of any of the skincare compositions described herein.


In another aspect, the disclosure provides for a method for reducing irritancy associated with the topical application of a skincare composition comprising salicylic acid in combination with at least two actives selected from the group consisting of lactic acid or a salt thereof; glycyrrhizinic acid or a salt or derivative thereof bisabolol; cetylhydroxyproline palmitamide; allantoin; niacinamide; and Epilobium angustifolium extract.


In some embodiments of any of the methods herein, the keratolytic agent comprises salicylic acid or a salt thereof. In some embodiments, the concentration of salicylic acid or a salt thereof is at least 0.01 percent by weight. In some embodiments of any of the methods herein, the concentration of salicylic acid or a salt thereof is less than 10 percent by weight.


In some embodiments of any of the methods herein, one of the actives comprises lactic acid or a salt thereof. In some embodiments of any of the methods herein, the concentration of lactic acid or a salt thereof is at least 0.01 percent by weight. In some embodiments of any of the methods herein, the concentration of lactic acid or a salt thereof is less than 10 percent by weight.


In some embodiments of any of the methods herein, one of the actives comprises glycyrrhizinic acid or a salt or derivative thereof. In some embodiments of any of the methods herein, the concentration of the glycyrrhizinic acid or a salt or derivative thereof is at least 0.01 percent by weight. In some embodiments of any of the methods herein, the concentration of glycyrrhizinic acid or a salt or derivative thereof is less than 2 percent by weight.


In some embodiments of any of the methods herein, one of the actives comprises bisabolol. In some embodiments of any of the methods herein, the concentration of bisabolol is at least 0.001 percent by weight. In other embodiments of any of the methods herein, the concentration of bisabolol is less than 1 percent by weight.


In some embodiments of any of the methods herein, one of the actives comprises cetylhydroxyproline palmitamide. In some embodiments of any of the methods herein, the concentration of cetylhydroxyproline palmitamide is at least 0.001 percent by weight. In some embodiments of any of the methods herein, the concentration of cetylhydroxyproline palmitamide is less than 1 percent by weight.


In some embodiments of any of the methods herein, one of the actives comprises allantoin. In some embodiments of any of the methods herein, the concentration of allantoin is at least 0.01 percent by weight. In some embodiments of any of the methods herein, the concentration of allantoin is less than 5 percent by weight.


In some embodiments of any of the methods herein, one of the actives comprises niacinamide. In some embodiments of any of the methods herein, the concentration of niacinamide is at least 0.01 percent by weight. In some embodiments of any of the methods herein, the concentration of niacinamide is less than 10 percent by weight.


In some embodiments of any of the methods herein, one of the actives comprises Epilobium angustifolium. In some embodiments of any of the methods herein, the concentration of Epilobium angustifolium is at least 0.001 percent by weight. In some embodiments of any of the methods herein, the concentration of Epilobium angustifolium is less than 1 percent by weight.


In some embodiments of any of the methods herein, the keratolytic agent comprises 0.1 to 5 wt % salicylic acid or a salt thereof, and the at least two actives are selected from the group consisting of: 0.1 to 5 wt % lactic acid or a salt thereof; 0.01 to 1 wt % glycyrrhizinic acid or a salt or derivative thereof; 0.001 to 1 wt % bisabolol; 0.001 to 1 wt % cetylhydroxyproline palmitamide; 0.1 to 2 wt % allantoin; 0.1 to 5 wt % niacinamide; and, 0.001 to 1% Epilobium angustifolium extract.


In some embodiments of any of the methods herein, the keratolytic agent comprises 1 to 3 wt % salicylic acid or a salt thereof, and the at least two actives are selected from the group consisting of: 1 to 3 wt % lactic acid or a salt thereof; 0.01 to 0.5 wt % glycyrrhizinic acid or a salt or derivative thereof; 0.02 to 0.5 wt % bisabolol; 0.01 to 0.5 wt % cetylhydroxyproline palmitamide; 0.2 to 1 wt % allantoin; 0.5 to 5 wt % niacinamide; and, 0.01 to 0.5% Epilobium angustifolium extract.


In some embodiments of any of the methods herein, the pH is in the range from 3.5 to 6.0.


In some embodiments of any of the methods herein, the skincare composition further comprises one or more further topically active skincare agents selected from the group consisting of an antimicrobial or anti-bacterial compound, an anti-viral compound, an anti-fungal compound, an anti-inflammatory compound, and an anthelmintic compound.


In some embodiments of any of the methods herein, the skincare composition has the form of one of an aqueous solution surfactant wash, an oily solution surfactant wash, a dispersion, an emulsion, or a gel. In some embodiments of any of the methods herein, the skincare composition has the form of an emulsion selected from the group consisting of an oil-in-water emulsion, a water-in-oil emulsion, and a micro-emulsion. In some embodiments of any of the methods herein, the skincare composition has the form of an emulsion comprising an oil-in-water emulsion. In some embodiments of any of the methods herein, the skincare composition has the form of a gel comprising an aqueous gel.


In some embodiments of any of the methods herein, the skincare composition further comprises one or both of a gelling and a thickening agent.


In some embodiments of any of the methods herein, the skincare composition further comprises an aqueous solvent system. In some embodiments of any of the methods herein, the aqueous solvent system is a mixed solvent system comprising water in admixture with a co-solvent. In some embodiments of any of the methods herein, the co-solvent is an alcohol.


In some embodiments of any of the methods herein, the skincare composition further comprises one or more excipients selected from the group consisting of emulsifiers, emollients, lipids, humectants or moisturizers, binders, conditioning agents, emulsion stabilizing salts, preservatives, chelating agents, sequestering agents, abrasives, pH adjusters, surfactants, perfumes and colorings.


In some embodiments of any of the methods herein, the step of applying the skincare composition to the skin comprises the use of a fibrous substrate impregnated with the skincare composition. In some embodiments of any of the methods herein, the fibrous substrate is selected from the group consisting of cellulose fibers, cotton fibers, and a mixture thereof.


It has been found that this treatment provides advantages over existing acne treatments, particularly in tolerance of the acne treatment by the skin. It may have an effect in reducing the severity of the acne and hence any associated marks or scarring that can occur; furthermore, cutaneous irritation may be reduced. Other measures indicating advantages are the reduction in inflammation in the affected skin and/or a soothing effect. A synergistic association between the chosen combination of ingredients may provide that a composition may have lesser amounts of each individual ingredient


Salicylic acid is preferably incorporated into the composition according to the invention as the free acid. However, the pH of the composition may, and generally will, be such that the salicylic acid exists in the composition in dissociated form. As the composition may well contain cationic counterions, the salicylic acid may then be thought of as being present in salt form. Alternatively, the salicylic acid may be incorporated into the composition already in salt form, e.g., as a salt with a Group I metal, such as sodium salicylate. As used herein, unless the context requires otherwise, any and all references to salicylic acid should be taken to encompass references to the acid and to dissociated forms and salts thereof.


The concentration of salicylic acid in the composition according to the invention is preferably at least 0.01 percent by weight, more preferably at least 0.1 percent, most preferably at least 0.5 percent and especially at least 1 percent by weight. The concentration of salicylic acid is preferably less than 10 percent, more preferably less than 5 percent, most preferably less than 4 percent and especially less than 3 percent by weight. The concentration of salicylic acid may therefore fall in the range 0.01 percent to 10 percent by weight, more preferably 0.1 percent to 5 percent, and most preferably 0.5 percent to 4 percent and especially 1 to 3 percent by weight. A particularly preferred concentration of salicylic acid is 2 percent by weight.


The concentration of lactic acid or salt thereof when present in the composition is at least 0.01 percent by weight, more preferably at least 0.1 percent by weight and most preferably at least 1 percent by weight; and is less than 10 percent by weight, more preferably less than 5 percent by weight, and most preferably less than 3 percent by weight.


The concentration of glycyrrhizinic acid or a salt or a derivative thereof when present in the composition is at least 0.01 percent by weight and is less than 2 percent by weight, more preferably less than 1 percent by weight, and most preferably less than 0.5 percent by weight.


The concentration of bisabolol when present in the composition is at least 0.001 percent by weight, more preferably at least 0.01 percent by weight and is less than 1 percent by weight, more preferably less than 0.5 percent by weight,


The concentration of cetylhydroxyproline palmitamide when present in the composition is at least 0.001 percent by weight, more preferably at least 0.01 percent by weight and is less than 1 percent by weight, more preferably less than 0.5 percent by weight.


The concentration of allantoin when present in the composition is at least 0.01 percent by weight, more preferably at least 0.1 percent by weight and most preferably at least 0.2 percent by weight, and is less than 5 percent by weight, more preferably less than 2 percent by weight, and most preferably less than 1 percent by weight.


The concentration of niacinamide when present in the composition is at least 0.01 percent by weight, more preferably at least 0.1 percent by weight and most preferably at least 0.5 percent by weight, and is less than 10 percent by weight, more preferably less than 5 percent by weight.


The concentration of Epilobium angustifolium extract when present in the composition is at least 0.01 percent by weight, and is less than 5 percent by weight, more preferably less than 1 percent by weight, and most preferably less than 0.5 percent by weight.







DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

To facilitate an understanding of the principles and features of the various embodiments of the invention, various illustrative embodiments are explained below. Although exemplary embodiments of the invention are explained in detail, it is to be understood that other embodiments are contemplated. Accordingly, it is not intended that the invention is limited in its scope to the details of construction and arrangement of components set forth in the following description or examples. The invention is capable of other embodiments and of being practiced or carried out in various ways. Also, in describing the exemplary embodiments, specific terminology will be resorted to for the sake of clarity.


It must also be noted that, as used in the specification and the appended claims, the singular forms “a,” “an” and “the” include plural references unless the context clearly dictates otherwise. For example, reference to a component is intended also to include composition of a plurality of components. References to a composition containing “a” constituent is intended to include other constituents in addition to the one named. In other words, the terms “a,” “an,” and “the” do not denote a limitation of quantity, but rather denote the presence of “at least one” of the referenced item.


As used herein, the term “and/or” may mean “and,” it may mean “or,” it may mean “exclusive-or,” it may mean “one,” it may mean “some, but not all,” it may mean “neither,” and/or it may mean “both.” The term “or” is intended to mean an inclusive “or.”


Also, in describing the exemplary embodiments, terminology will be resorted to for the sake of clarity. It is intended that each term contemplates its broadest meaning as understood by those skilled in the art and includes all technical equivalents which operate in a similar manner to accomplish a similar purpose. It is to be understood that embodiments of the disclosed technology may be practiced without these specific details. In other instances, well-known methods, structures, and techniques have not been shown in detail in order not to obscure an understanding of this description. References to “one embodiment,” “an embodiment,” “example embodiment,” “some embodiments,” “certain embodiments,” “various embodiments,” etc., indicate that the embodiment(s) of the disclosed technology so described may include a particular feature, structure, or characteristic, but not every embodiment necessarily includes the particular feature, structure, or characteristic. Further, repeated use of the phrase “in one embodiment” does not necessarily refer to the same embodiment, although it may.


Ranges may be expressed herein as from “about” or “approximately” or “substantially” one particular value and/or to “about” or “approximately” or “substantially” another particular value. When such a range is expressed, other exemplary embodiments include from the one particular value and/or to the other particular value. Further, the term “about” means within an acceptable error range for the particular value as determined by one of ordinary skill in the art, which will depend in part on how the value is measured or determined, i.e., the limitations of the measurement system. For example, “about” can mean within an acceptable standard deviation, per the practice in the art. Alternatively, “about” can mean a range of up to ±20%, preferably up to ±10%, more preferably up to ±5%, and more preferably still up to ±1% of a given value. Alternatively, particularly with respect to biological systems or processes, the term can mean within an order of magnitude, preferably within 2-fold, of a value. Where particular values are described in the application and claims, unless otherwise stated, the term “about” is implicit and in this context means within an acceptable error range for the particular value.


Similarly, as used herein, “substantially free” of something, or “substantially pure”, and like characterizations, can include both being “at least substantially free” of something, or “at least substantially pure”, and being “completely free” of something, or “completely pure”.


By “comprising” or “containing” or “including” is meant that at least the named compound, element, particle, or method step is present in the composition or article or method, but does not exclude the presence of other compounds, materials, particles, method steps, even if the other such compounds, material, particles, method steps have the same function as what is named.


Throughout this description, various components may be identified having specific values or parameters, however, these items are provided as exemplary embodiments. Indeed, the exemplary embodiments do not limit the various aspects and concepts of the present invention as many comparable parameters, sizes, ranges, and/or values may be implemented. The terms “first,” “second,” and the like, “primary,” “secondary,” and the like, do not denote any order, quantity, or importance, but rather are used to distinguish one element from another.


It is noted that terms like “specifically,” “preferably,” “typically,” “generally,” and “often” are not utilized herein to limit the scope of the claimed invention or to imply that certain features are critical, essential, or even important to the structure or function of the claimed invention. Rather, these terms are merely intended to highlight alternative or additional features that may or may not be utilized in a particular embodiment of the present invention. It is also noted that terms like “substantially” and “about” are utilized herein to represent the inherent degree of uncertainty that may be attributed to any quantitative comparison, value, measurement, or other representation.


The dimensions and values disclosed herein are not to be understood as being strictly limited to the exact numerical values recited. Instead, unless otherwise specified, each such dimension is intended to mean both the recited value and a functionally equivalent range surrounding that value. For example, a dimension disclosed as “50 mm” is intended to mean “about 50 mm.”


It is also to be understood that the mention of one or more method steps does not preclude the presence of additional method steps or intervening method steps between those steps expressly identified. Similarly, it is also to be understood that the mention of one or more components in a composition does not preclude the presence of additional components than those expressly identified.


The materials described hereinafter as making up the various elements of the present invention are intended to be illustrative and not restrictive. Many suitable materials that would perform the same or a similar function as the materials described herein are intended to be embraced within the scope of the invention. Such other materials not described herein can include, but are not limited to, materials that are developed after the time of the development of the invention, for example. Any dimensions listed in the various drawings are for illustrative purposes only and are not intended to be limiting. Other dimensions and proportions are contemplated and intended to be included within the scope of the invention.


In a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, there is provided a skincare composition comprising 0.1 to 5 wt % salicylic acid, or a salt thereof, in combination with at least 2 actives selected from the group consisting of: 0.1 to 5 wt % lactic acid or a salt thereof; 0.01 to 1 wt % glycyrrhizinic acid or a salt or derivative thereof; 0.001 to 1 wt % bisabolol; 0.001 to 1 wt % cetylhydroxyproline palmitamide; 0.1 to 2 wt % allantoin; 0.1 to 5 wt % niacinamide; and, 0.001 to 1% Epilobium angustifolium extract.


In a further particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, there is provided a skincare composition comprising 1 to 3 wt % salicylic acid or a salt thereof; in combination with at least 2 actives selected from the group consisting of: 1 to 3 wt % lactic acid or a salt thereof; 0.01 to 0.5 wt % glycyrrhizinic acid or a salt or derivative; 0.02 to 0.5 wt % bisabolol; 0.01 to 0.5 wt % cetylhydroxyproline palmitamide; 0.2 to 1 wt % allantoin; 0.5 to 5 wt % niacinamide; and, 0.01 to 0.5% Epilobium angustifolium extract.


The composition is preferably prepared with a pH in the range 2.5 to 8.0, more preferably 3.0 to 7.0, and particularly a pH in the range 3.5 to 6.0, e.g., about pH 4.5 or pH 5.5.


A composition according to the invention may comprise one or more further topically active ingredients useful in skincare. Such active ingredients may include one or more of the following:


antimicrobial or antibacterial compounds, for example selected from the following: triclosan, neomycin, clindamycin, polymyxin, bacitracin, benzoyl peroxide, hydrogen peroxide, tetracylines such as doxycycline or minocycline, sulfa drugs such as sulfacetamide, penicillins, cephalosporins such as cephaiexin, and quinolones such as lomefloxacin, olfoxacin or trovafloxacin;


antiviral compounds, for example selected from acyclovir, tamvir, and penciclovir;


antifungal compounds, for example selected from the following: famesol, clotrimazole, ketoconazole, econazole, fluconazole, calcium or zinc undecylenate, undecylenic acid, butenafine hydrochloride, ciclopirox olaimine, miconazole nitrate, nystatin, sulconazole, and terbinafine hydrochloride; anti-inflammatory compounds, for example selected from the following: steroidal agents selected from hydrocortisone, fluocinolone acetonide, halcinonide, halobetasol propionate, clobetasol propionate, betamethasone dipropionate, betamethasone valerate, and triamcinolone acetonide, and non-steroidal anti-inflammatory agents selected from aspirin, ibuprofen, ketoprofen, naproxen, aloe vera gel, aloe vera, licorice extract, pilewort or zinc;


anthelmintic compounds, for example metronidazole.


The composition according to the invention may be formulated in numerous forms. However, the composition may often take the form of an aqueous or oily solution or surfactant wash or dispersion or emulsion or a gel. An emulsion may be an oil-in-water emulsion, or a water-in-oil emulsion, or microemulsion.


The oil phase of emulsions may comprise, but are not exclusive to: hydrocarbon oils such as paraffin or mineral oils; b) waxes such as beeswax or paraffin wax; c) natural oils such as sunflower oil, apricot kernel oil, shea butter or jojoba oil; d) silicone oils such as dimethicone, cyclomethicone or cetyldimethicone; e) fatty acid esters such as isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, dioctylmaleate, glyceryl oleate and cetostearyl isononanoate; f) fatty alcohols such as cetyl alcohol or stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol); g) polypropylene glycol or polyethylene glycol ethers, e.g., PPG-14 butyl ether; or h) mixtures thereof, for example, the blend of waxes available commercially under the trade name Cutina (Henkel).


Emulsifiers used may be any emulsifiers known in the art for use in water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsions or microemulsions. Known cosmetically acceptable emulsifiers may include: a) sesquioleates such as sorbitan sesquioleate, available commercially for example under the trade name Arlacel 83 (ICI), or polyglyceryl-2-sesquioleate; b) ethoxylated esters of derivatives of natural oils such as the polyethoxylated ester of hydrogenated castor oil available commercially for example under the trade name Arlacel 989 (ICI); c) silicone emulsifiers such as silicone polyols available commercially for example under the trade name ABIL WS08 (Th. Goldschmidt AG); d) anionic emulsifiers such as fatty acid soaps e.g., potassium stearate and fatty acid sulphates e.g., sodium cetostearyl sulphate available commercially under the trade name Dehydag (Henkel); e) ethoxylated fatty alcohols, for example the emulsifiers available commercially under the trade name Brij (ICI); f) sorbitan esters, for example the emulsifiers available commercially under the trade name Span (ICI); g) ethoxylated sorbitan esters, for example the emulsifiers available commercially under the trade name Tween (ICI); h) ethoxylated fatty acid esters such as ethoxylated stearates, glyceryl monostearates for example the emulsifiers available commercially under the trade name Myrj (ICI); i) ethoxylated mono-, di-, and tri-glycerides, for example the emulsifiers available commercially under the trade name Labrafil (Alfa Chem.); j) non-ionic self-emulsifying waxes, for example the wax available commercially under the trade name Polawax (Croda); k) ethoxylated fatty acids, for example, the emulsifiers available commercially under the trade name Tefose (Alfa Chem.); l) methylglucose esters such as polyglycerol-3 methyl glucose distearate available commercially under the name Tegocare 450 (Degussa Goldschmidt); m) as well as polyacrylamide emulsifier systems for examples cream gel emulsifier under trade name Sepigel 305 (Seppic) or n) mixtures thereof.


Gels provided according to the invention may be aqueous or non-aqueous. Aqueous gels are preferred. The gel will contain a gelling agent(s) in order to give sufficient viscosity to the gel. Suitable gelling agents may be hydroxypropyl guar or a copolymer of acryloyl dimethyl tauric acid (or a salt thereof), especially a copolymer of that monomer with another vinylic monomer. The salt may be a salt of a Group I alkali metal, but is more preferably an ammonium salt. Examples of suitable copolymer gelling agents are ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurate/vinyl pyrrolidone copolymer, ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurate/Beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vinyl formamide copolymer These materials are available from Clariant GmbH in the range of products under the trade name Aristoflex.


A variety of thickening agents may also be used according to the nature of the liquid carrier and the viscosity required. Thickeners that are water-soluble or hydrophilic are preferred, and examples include acrylic acid polymers, e.g., those available commercially under the trade name Carbopol (B.F. Goodrich), modified celluloses, e.g., hydroxypropylmethylcellulose or hydroxyethylcellulose available commercially under the trade name Natrosol (Hercules), alkylgalactomanans available under the trade name N-Hance, xanthan gum, cetyl alcohol and sodium chloride.


The amount of gelling and/or thickening agent in the composition will each preferably lie in the range 0.1 to 5 percent w/w, more preferably 0.5 to 5 percent w/w. Typically, the amount of gelling and/or thickening agent will each be less than 3 percent w/w, e.g., about 1 percent w/w or about 2 percent w/w.


The composition according to the invention preferably has a viscosity of from about 10,000 mPa·s to about 200,000 mPa·s. Viscosity may be measured using a Brookfield RVT viscometer equipped with a T bar C rotating at 5 rpm for 1 minute.


In many instances, it is preferred that the composition should comprise a chelating or sequestering agent, or other agent capable of complexation or other interaction with metal ions present in the composition. Such agents may improve the stability of the composition, and in particular may inhibit or prevent degradation of several ingredients (e.g., fragrance). Examples of chelating or sequestering agents include ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid and its salts, notably the dipotassium and especially the disodium salt.


In the case of solutions or dispersions, and gels, the composition will generally contain a solvent system or other continuous liquid phase. Such a system is preferably aqueous. However, mixed solvent systems may often be used with advantage. Such a mixed solvent system most preferably comprises water, in admixture with a co-solvent, most preferably a lower (e.g., C1-6) alcohol, in particular ethanol and t-butyl alcohol.


Preferred aqueous systems comprise water in an amount of at least 25 percent by weight, more preferably at least 35 percent by weight. The upper limit of water will depend on the amounts of other ingredients incorporated in the composition so that the water may form the remainder of the composition up to 100 percent of the composition.


The composition may additionally comprise other components which will be well known to those skilled in the art. These include, for example:


a) Emollients—ingredients that help to maintain the soft, smooth and pliable appearance of skin. Such ingredients may function by their ability to remain on the surface of the skin or in the stratum corneum, and to act as lubricants, reducing or preventing flaking of the skin and improving the skin's appearance. Examples of emollients are isopropyl myristate, triglycerides of fatty acids e.g., lauric triglyceride or capric/caprylic triglyceride, such as the triglyceride available commercially under the trade name Miglyol 810 (Huls UK), and the polypropylene glycol ether of stearyl alcohol known as PPF-15 Stearyl Ether. Particularly preferred emollients are octyldodecanol and polysiloxane compounds, in particular those known as dimethicones.


b) Humectants or Moisturisers—ingredients intended to increase the water content of the top layers of the skin. Examples of such ingredients are glycerin, sorbitol, 1,3-butylene glycol and propylene glycol.


c) Surfactants—Surfactants may be used in compositions according to the invention as solubilisers, or as cleansing agents or foam boosters. Many different classes of surfactant may be suitable for inclusion in the composition according to the invention, and these will be readily apparent to those skilled in the art. Examples of suitable surfactants include anionic surfactants (e.g., sodium laureth sulphate, non-ionic surfactants (e.g., cocoglucoside) cationic surfactants and/or amphoteric surfactants (e.g., cocoamidoproyl betaine). Polyethylene glycol ethers of alcohols such as isocetyl alcohol (e.g., Isoceteth-20), isostearyl alcohol (e.g., lsosteareth-20), cetyl alcohol (e.g., Ceteth-20), oleyl alcohol (e.g., Oleth-20) and cetearyl alcohol (e.g., Ceteareth-20).


d) Preservatives—ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect the composition from spoilage. Examples of preservatives include such as propylparaben, bronopol, sodium dehydroacetate, polyhexamethylenebiguanide hydrochloride, isothiazolone and diazolidinylurea.


e) Chelating agents or sequestering agents (sequestrants)—ingredients that have the ability to complex with and inactivate metallic ions in order to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of the composition, as described above. Examples of chelating agents are ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid and its salts, notably the dipotassium and especially the disodium or tetrasodium salt.


f) Abrasives—ingredients used to assist in the removal of unwanted tissue or foreign materials from the skin during application of the composition. Abrasives commonly comprise fine solid particles. Examples of suitable abrasives are polyethylene beads and aluminium oxide.


g) opacifying agents such as clays (e.g., kaolin and bentonite) as well as titanium dioxide.


h) pH adjusters—ingredients used to control the pH of the composition. Examples of pH adjusters are inorganic salts such as sodium hydroxide, and organic bases such as triethanolamine and arginine.


i) Conditioning agents, for example distearyldimonium chloride.


j) Perfumes and colourings.


The composition according to the invention may be applied and left on the skin to have the desired therapeutic effect, or it may be applied and then rinsed off, for example with water for surfactant based formulations. The composition may be applied with the aid of a fibrous material, for example a pad or a wipe.


According to another aspect of the invention, there is provided an article comprising a fibrous substrate, for example a material in the form of a pad or a wipe, impregnated with a skincare composition comprising salicylic acid or a salt thereof and at least 2 actives selected from the group consisting of lactic acid or a salt thereof; glycyrrhizinic acid or a salt or derivative thereof; bisabolol; cetylhydroxyproline palmitamide; allantoin; niacinamide; and, and Epilobium angustifolium extract.


The fibrous material may be used to apply the composition onto the skin.


Suitable fibrous materials include cellulose or cotton fibres or a mixture thereof. The fibrous material may be impregnated with the composition as a wet wipe which is arranged for immediate use to apply the skincare composition of the present invention to the skin of the user. Alternatively, the fibrous material may be impregnated with the skincare composition and dried to form a dry wipe which requires to be wetted, for example with water, before it can be used.


According to a further aspect of the invention, there is provided method for the prophylactic or remedial treatment of acne, which method comprises the topical application to the skin of a patient of a skincare composition comprising salicylic acid or a salt thereof and at least 2 of the list comprising lactic acid or a salt thereof; glycyrrhizinic acid or a salt and their derivatives, bisabolol; cetylhydroxyproline palmitamide; allantoin; niacinamide; and Epilobium angustifolium extract.


It will be appreciated that the method according to this aspect of the invention may be a therapeutic method, but will often be a primarily cosmetic method, the objective of which is to reduce or eliminate externally visible, and often unsightly, symptoms of acne vulgaris.


In a yet further aspect of the invention, there is provided the use of salicylic acid and at least 2 actives selected from the group consisting of lactic acid (or salts thereof); glycyrrhizinic acid (or salts or derivatives thereof); bisabolol; cetylhydroxyproline palmitamide; allantoin; niacinamide and Epilobium angustifolium in the manufacture of a composition for the prophylactic or remedial treatment of acne by topical application of the composition to the skin.


EXAMPLES

The present invention is also described and demonstrated by way of the following examples. However, the use of these and other examples anywhere in the specification is illustrative only and in no way limits the scope and meaning of the invention or of any exemplified term. Likewise, the invention is not limited to any particular preferred embodiments described here. Indeed, many modifications and variations of the invention may be apparent to those skilled in the art upon reading this specification, and such variations can be made without departing from the invention in spirit or in scope. The invention is therefore to be limited only by the terms of the appended claims along with the full scope of equivalents to which those claims are entitled.


The invention will now be described in greater detail, by way of illustration only, with reference to the following Examples.


Example 1: Serum


Example 2: Clear gel scrub


Example 3: Pearlised Gel Scrub


Example 4: Wash/mask


Example 5: Wash/mask


Example 6: Hydro alcoholic gel


Example 7: Cream Scrub


Example 8: Foaming Cream Scrub


The composition of each of these examples is shown fully in the following Tables 1-8.


Example 1



















% w/w in



% w/w in


final


Trade Name
Formula
Function
EU INCI Name
formula







Purified water
QS 100
Solvent
Aqua
to100%


Dissolvine Na2
0.05
Sequestrant
Disodium EDTA
0.05000


Carbopol Ultrez 20
0.60
Thickener

0.60000


Veegum Ultra
0.25
Viscosity control
Magnesium
0.24250




(Thickener)
Aluminum Silicate






CI 77891
0.00750


Keltrol RD
0.75
Emulsion
Xanthan Gum
0.75000




stabilising/






Viscosity






control




Titanium dioxide
0.20
pigment
CI 77891
0.20000


Ph Eur






Eutanol G
4.50
Emollient
Octyldodecanol
4.50000


Arlamol HD
1.50
Emollient
Isohexadecane
1.50000


Silfar 100
2.00
Skin
Dimethicone
2.00000




conditioning




Salicylic acid
2.00
Keratolytic active
Salicylic Acid
2.00000


DENATURED ETHANOL
4.80
Solvent
Alcohol Denat.
4.79376





(Ethyl Alcohol)



SDA-40B 200 PROOF

Denaturant
Denatonium
0.00003





Benzoate





Denaturant
Tert-Butyl alcohol
0.00624


SEPIGEL 305
2.0000
Emulsion
Aqua
0.71167




stabilising/
Polyacrylamide
0.80000




Viscosity
C13-14 Isoparaffin
0.37833




control
Laureth-7
0.11000


CLEARLY
0.2000
Fragrance
Benzyl salicylate
0.01844


FRESH


Limonene
0.00689


FRAGRANCE


Parfum
0.20000


Sodium
2.35
Buffering agent
Aqua
1.64500


hydroxide 30% soln


Sodium hydroxide
0.70500


Purasal S/HQ 60
3.33
moisturiser, skin
Aqua
1.332




lightener, anti-
Sodium Lactate
1.99800




inflammatory




Symrepair
0.50
Anti-
Hexyldecanol
0.42000




inflammatory,
Bisabolol
0.02500




wound healing
Cetylhydroxyproline
0.02500





Palmitamide






Stearic Acid
0.02500






Brassica Campestris

0.00500





Sterols



Nicotinamide
2.00
skin lightening,
Niacinamide
2.00000




anti-






inflammatory




Dipotassium
0.10
anti-
Dipotassium
0.10000


Glycyrrhizate

inflammatory/
Glycyrrhizate





skin lightening




Allantoin
0.50
anti-
Allantoin
0.50000




inflammatory




Canadian Willowherb
0.50
Anti-

Epilobium

0.0100




inflammatory

angustifolium










Example 2



















% w/w in



% w/w in


final


Trade Name
Formula
Function
EU INCI Name
formula







Purified Water
To 100%
Solvent
Aqua
to 100%


Carbopol Ultrez 20
1.3
Suspending
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl
1.3




Agent
Acrylate Crosspolymer



Dissolvine Na2
0.1
Sequestring
Disodium EDTA
0.1




Agent




Glycerin
8
Humectant
Glycerin
8


Sorbitol
2
Humectant
Sorbitol
1.40





Aqua
0.60


Empicol
20
Surfactant
Aqua
14.37


ESB3/M6


Sodium Laureth Sulfate
5.40





Sodium Hydroxide
0.2


Salicylic Acid
2
Active
Salicylic Acid
2


Cocoglucoside
4.8
Surfactant
Aqua
2.352





Cocoglucoside
2.544


Tego Betaine
6.9
Surfactant
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
2.553





Aqua
3.726





Sodium Chloride
0.5037


Perfume
0.25
Fragrance
Parfum
0.25


Clearly Fresh


Limonene
0.010329





Benzyl Salicylate
0.023055


Sodium
3
pH Adjuster
Sodium Hydroxide
0.9


Hydroxide


Aqua
2.1


Aluminium Oxide
1.2
Exfoliating
Alumina
1.2




Beads




Cotahylene HO 1681
1
Exfoliating
Polyethylene
1




Beads




Gotalene Green
0.2
Exfoliating
Polyethylene +
0.2




Beads
COLOUR (TBD)



Genamin PQ
1
Skin Conditioner
Aqua
0.85


43


Polyquaternium 43
0.15


FD&C Yellow 6
0.001
Colourant
CI 15985
0.001


FD & C Blue 1
0.002
Colourant
CI 42090
0.002


Purasal S/HQ
3.33
Moisturiser, Skin
Aqua
1.3320


60

lightener, Anti-
Sodium Lactate
2.0000




inflammatory




Nicotinamide
2.00
Skin lightening,
Niacinamide
2.0000




Anti-






inflammatory




Dipotassium
0.10
Skin lightening,
Dipotassium
0.1000


Glycyrrhizate

Anti-
Glycyrrhizate





inflammatory




SymRepair
0.50
Anri-
Hexyldecanol
0.42000




inflammatory,
Bisabolol
0.02500




Wound healing
Cetylhydroxyproline
0.02500





Palmitamide






Stearic Acid
0.02500






Brassica Campestris

0.00500





Sterols



Allantoin
0.50
Anti-
Allantoin
0.5000




inflammatory




Canadian Willowherb
0.50
Anti-

Epilobium

0.0100




inflammatory

angustifolium










Example 3



















% w/w in



% w/w in


final


Trade Name
Formula
Function
EU INCI Name
formula







Purified Water
To 100%
Solvent
Aqua
To 100%


Carbopol Ultrez 20
1.4
Suspending
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl
1.4




Agent
Acrylate Crosspolymer



Dissolvine Na2
0.1
Sequestring
Disodium EDTA
0.1




Agent




Glycerin
8
Humectant
Glycerin
8


Polyquatemium
0.7
Conditioning
Polyquaternium 43
0.105


43

Agent
Aqua
0.595


Cocoglucoside
4.8
Surfactant
Aqua
2.352





Cocoglucoside
2.544


Tego Betaine
6.9
Surfactant
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
2.553





Aqua
3.726





Sodium Chloride
0.5037


Glycol
2.5
Pearlising Agent
Aqua
1.625


Distearate


Glycol Distearate
0.25





Laureth-4
0.25





Cocamidopropyl Betaine
0.25





Citric Acid
0.125


Empicol
26.7
Surfactant
Aqua
19.18395


ESB3/M6


Sodium Laureth Sulfate
7.209





Sodium Hydroxide
0.267


Salicylic Acid
2
Active
Salicylic Acid
2


Sodium
3
pH Adjuster
Sodium Hydroxide
0.9


Hydroxide


Aqua
2.1


Perfume
0.2
Fragrance
Parfum
0.2


Clearly Fresh


Benzyl Salicylate
0.027666





Limonene
0.006886


Aluminium Oxide
2.2
Exfoliating
Alumina
2.2


Coathylene HO1681
2
Exfoliating
Polyethylene
2


Gotalene Green
0.2
Exfoliating
Polyethylene (+CI TBD)
0.2


FD & C Yellow No. 6
0.0015
Colour
Cl 15985
0.0015


Blue No. 1 FD&C
0.00225
Colour
Cl 42090
0.00225


Purasal S/HQ
3.33
Moisturiser, Skin
Aqua
1.3320


60

lightener, Anti-
Sodium Lactate
2.0000




inflammatory




Nicotinamide
2.00
Skin lightening,
Niacinamide
2.0000




Anti-






inflammatory




Dipotassium
0.10
Skin lightening,
Dipotassium
0.1000


Glycyrrhizate

Anti-
Glycyrrhizate





inflammatory




SymRepair
0.50
Anti-
Hexyldecanol
0.42000




inflammatory,
Bisabolol
0.02500




Wound healing
Cetylhydroxyproline
0.02500





Palmitamide






Stearic Acid
0.02500






Brassica Campestris

0.00500





Sterols



Allantoin
0.50
Anti-
Allantoin
0.5000




inflammatory




Canadian Willowherb
0.50
Anti-

Epilobium

0.0100




inflammatory

angustifolium










Example 4



















% w/w in



% w/w in


final


Trade Name
Formula
Function
EU INCI Name
formula







Purified Water
to 100%
Solvent
Aqua
To 100%


Dissolvine Na2
0.01
Sequestring Agent
Disodium EDTA
0.0100


Glycerin
8.00
Humectant
Glycerin
8.0000


Sodium
1.25
pH Adjuster
Aqua
0.8750


Hydroxide


Sodium Hydroxide
0.3750


30% Solution






Keltrol RD
0.20
Emulsion Stabiliser/
Xanthan Gum
0.20




Thickener




Veegum Ultra
0.20
Emulsion Stabiliser/
Magnesium
0.194




Thickener
Aluminium Silicate






CI77891
0.006


Dehydol LS3
4.00
Emulsifier/Surfactant
Laureth-3
4.0000


Lanette 1665
8.00
Emulsifier
Cetearyl Alcohol
8.0000


Salicylic Acid
2.00
Active
Salicylic Acid
2.0000


Hostopan SCI 85G
10.00
Surfactant
Sodium Cocoyl
8.5000





Isethionate





Emollient/Emulsifying/
Coconut Acid
1.0000




Surfactant






Antistatic/Hair
Sodium Isethionate
0.4000




conditioning/Cleansing






Solvent
Aqua
0.0010


Empicol
4.00
Surfactant
Aqua
2.8740


ESB3/M6


Sodium Laureth
1.080





Sulfate






Sodium Hydroxide
0.040


Tego glycinate 818M
3.50
Non-ionic surfactant
Sodium
1.05000





cocoamphoacetate






Aqua
2.17000


Kaolin
6.00
Clay
Hydrated Aluminium
6.0000





Silicate



Dry Flo PC
2.00
Oil Absorber
Aluminum Starch
2.0000





Octenylsuccinate



Titanium Dioxide
2.00
Opacifier
CI77891
2.0000


Ph Eur






Perfume
0.30
Fragrance
Parfum
0.3000


Clearly Fresh


Benzyl Salicylate
0.0277





Limonene
0.0103


Phenonip
0.30
Preservative
Phenoxyethanol
0.2178





Ethyl paraben
0.045





Propyl paraben
0.012





Isobutyl paraben
0.012





Butyl Paraben
0.006





Methyl Paraben
0.006


Bentonite
3.00
Sebum Absorber
Bentonite
3.0000


Purasal S/HQ
3.33
Moisturiser, Skin
Aqua
1.3320


60

lightener, Anti-
Sodium Lactate
2.0000




inflammatory




Nicotinamide
2.00
Skin lightening, Anti-
Niacinamide
2.0000




inflammatory




Dipotassium
0.10
Skin lightening, Anti-
Dipotassium
0.1000


Glycyrrhizate

inflammatory
Glycyrrhizate



SymRepair
0.50
Anti-
Hexyldecanol
0.42000




inflammatory,
Bisabolol
0.02500




Wound healing
Cetylhydroxyproline
0.02500





Palmitamide






Stearic Acid
0.02500






Brassica Campestris

0.00500





Sterols



Allantoin
0.50
Anti-
Allantoin
0.5000




inflammatory




Canadian Willowherb
0.50
Anti-

Epilobium

0.0100




inflammatory

angustifolium










Example 5



















% w/w in



% w/w in


final


Trade Name
Formula
Function
EU INCI Name
formula







Purified Water
To 100%
Solvent
Aqua
To 100%


Dissolvine Na2
0.05
Sequestring Agent
Disodium EDTA
0.05


Glycerin
7
Humectant
Glycerin
7.00


Polyquaternium
0.3
Conditioning Agent
Polyquaternium 43
0.045


43


Aqua
0.255


Keltrol RD
0.3
Emulsion Stabiliser/
Xanthan Gum
0.30




Thickener




Veegum Ultra
0.3
Emulsion Stabiliser/
Magnesium
0.291




Thickener
Aluminium Silicate






CI77891
0.009


Butylene Glycol
3
Humectant
Butylene Glycol
3.00


Salicylic Acid
2
Active
Salicylic Acid
2.00


Empicol
13.3
Surfactant
Aqua
9.5561


ESB3/M6


Sodium Laureth
3.591





Sulfate






Sodium Hydroxide
0.133


Cocoglucoside
3.2
Surfactant
Aqua
1.568


50%


Cocoglucoside
1.696


Tego Betaine
4.6
Surfactant
Cocamidopropyl
1.702





Betaine






Aqua
2.484





Sodium Chloride
0.3358


Phenonip
0.3
Preservative
Phenoxyethanol
0.2178





Ethyl paraben
0.045





Propyl paraben
0.012





Isobutyl paraben
0.012





Butyl Paraben
0.006





Methyl Paraben
0.006


Sodium
1.25
pH Adjuster
Sodium Hydroxide
0.38


Hydroxide


Aqua
0.88


Kaolin
8
Clay
Hydrated Aluminium
8.00





Silicate



Bentonite
4
Sebum Absorber
Bentonite
4.0000


Titanium Dioxide
2
Opacifier
CI77891
2.0000


Fragrance
0.2
Fragrance
Parfum
0.2000


Clearly Fresh


Benzyl Salicylate
0.0277





Limonene
0.0069


Structure XL
2
Thickener/foam
Hydroxypropyl
2.0000




boosrter
Starch Phosphate



Structure Plus
0.4
Thickener
Acrylates/
0.0800





Aminoacrylates/






C10-30 Alkyl PEG-20






Itaconate Copolymer






Aqua
0.3160





Phenoxyethanol
0.00288





Methyl Paraben
0.00064





Ethyl Paraben
0.00016





Propyl Paraben
0.00008





Butyl Paraben
0.00016





Isobutyl Paraben
0.00008


Blue No. 1 FD&C
0.0018
Colour
Cl 42090
0.0018


Purasal S/HQ
3.33
Moisturiser, Skin
Aqua
1.332


60

lightener, Anti-
Sodium Lactate
1.998




inflammatory




Nicotinamide
2
Skin lightening,
Niacinamide
2.000




Anti-






inflammatory




Dipotassium
0.1
Skin lightening,
Dipotassium
0.100


Glycyrrhizate

Anti-
Glycyrrhizate





inflammatory




SymRepair
0.5
Anri-
Hexyldecanol
0.420




inflammatory,
Bisabolol
0.025




Wound healing
Cetylhydroxyproline
0.025





Palmitamide






Stearic Acid
0.025






Brassica Campestris

0.005





Sterols



Allantoin
0.5
Anti-
Allantoin
0.5




inflammatory




Canadian Willowherb
0.50
Anti-

Epilobium

0.0100




inflammatory

angustifolium










Example 6



















% w/w in



% w/w in


final


Trade Name
Formula
Function
EU INCI Name
formula







Purified water
Qs 100
Solvent
Aqua
To 100%


Jaguar HP 105
1.20
Thickener
Hydroxypropyl Guar
1.12680





Aqua
0.10800





Proteins
0.01200





Ashes
0.01920


Timiron Silk
0.20
pearlising agent
CI77891
0.14200


Green


Mica
0.07400





Tin oxide
0.00200


Salicylic acid
2.00
Keratolytic active
Salicylic Acid
2.00000


Tween 20
2.50
surfactant
Polysorbate 20
2.50000


DENATURED ETHANOL
27.00
Solvent
Alcohol Denat. (Ethyl
26.96490





Alcohol)



SDA-40B 200

Denaturant
Denatonium Benzoate
0.00016


PROOF

Denaturant
Tert-Butyl alcohol
0.03510


Sodium
2.00
Buffering agent
Aqua
1.40000


hydroxide 30% soln


Sodium hydroxide
0.60000


CLEARLY
0.2000
Fragrance
Benzyl salicylate
0.01844


FRESH


Limonene
0.00689


FRAGRANCE


Parfum
0.00000


Purasal S/HQ
3.33
moisturiser, skin
Aqua
1.332


60

lightener, anti-
Sodium Lactate
1.99800




inflammatory




Symrepair
0.50
Anti-
Hexyldecanol
0.42000




inflammatory,
Bisabolol
0.02500




wound healing
Cetylhydroxyproline
0.02500





Palmitamide






Stearic Acid
0.02500






Brassica Campestris

0.00500





Sterols



Nicotinamide
2.00
skin lightening, anti-
Niacinamide
2.00000




inflammatory




Dipotassium
0.10
anti-
Dipotassium
0.10000


Glycyrrhizate

inflammatory/skin
Glycyrrhizate





lightening




Allantoin
0.50
anti-
Allantoin
0.50000




inflammatory




Canadian Willowherb
0.50
Anti-

Epilobium

0.0100




inflammatory

angustifolium










Example 7



















% w/w in



% w/w in


final


Trade Name
Formula
Function
EU INCI Name
formula







None
To 100%
Solvent
Aqua
To 100%


DISSOLVINE NA2
0.01000
Sequestrant
Disodium EDTA
0.01000


Veegum ultra
0.25000
Emulsion stabiliser/
Magnesium Aluminium
0.24250




Thickener
Silicate






CI77891
0.00750


Keltrol RD
0.50000
Emulsion stabiliser/
Xanthan Gum
0.25




Thickener




Glycerin 99.7% USP
3.00000
Humectant
Glycerin
3.00000


Arlamole E
2.00000
Emollient
PPG-15 Stearyl Ether
2.00000





Stearyl Alcohol
3


SALICYLIC ACID USP
2.00000
Keratolytic
Salicylic Acid
2.00000


Varisoft TA 100
1.50000
Skin Conditioning
Distearyldimonium
1.44000





Chloride






Aqua
0.06000





Sodium Chloride
0.00225


Tego Alkanol
1.00000
Emollient
Myristyl Alcohol
0.02500


16


Cetyl Alcohol
1.00000


Birj 721
0.50000
Emulsifier
Steareth-21
0.49000





Aqua
0.01000





Stearyl Alcohol
0.03360





Arachidyl Alcohol
0.08400





Behenyl Alcohol
0.33600


Tego Alkanol S2
0.25000
Emilsifier
Steareth-2
0.25000


Stepanol-WA
3.57000
Surfactant
Aqua
2.53470


extra PCA (SLS)


Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
1.07100





Lauryl Alcohol
0.04641





Sodium Sulfate
0.02499


Tego Betain A
6.67000
Surfactant
Aqua
3.60180


16


Cetyl Betaine
2.13440





Alcohol
0.66700





Sodium Chloride
0.46690


Clearly Fresh
0.35000
Fragrance
Benzyl Salicylate
0.03228


E0525379


Limonene
0.01205





Parfum
0.35000


Aluminium oxide F100
8.00000
Abrasive agent
Alumina
8.00000


Purasal S/HQ
3.33
Moisturiser, skin
Aqua
1.333


60

lightener, anti-
Sodium Lactate
2.00000




inflammatory




SymRepair
0.50
Anti-
Hexyldecanol
0.42000




inflammatory,
Bisabolol
0.02500




wound healing
Cetylhydroxyproline
0.02500





Palmitamide






Stearic Acid
0.02500






Brassica Campestris

0.00500





Sterols



Nicotinamide
2.00
Skin lightening,
Niacinamide
2.00000




anti-






inflammatory




Dipotassium
0.10
Anti-
Dipotassium
0.10000


Glycyrrhizate

inflammatory/
Glycyrrhizate





skin lightening




Allantoin
0.50
anti-
Allantoin
0.50000




inflammatory




Canadian Willowherb
0.50
Anti-

Epilobium

0.0100




inflammatory

angustifolium










Example 8



















% w/w in



% w/w in


final


Trade Name
Formula
Function
EU INCI Name
formula







None
To 100%
Solvent
Aqua
to 100%


DISSOLVINE NA2
0.05000
Sequestrant
Disodium EDTA
0.05000


Carbopol ultrez 20
0.30000
thickener
Acrylates/C10-30
0.30000





Alkyl Acrylate






Crosspolymer






Ethyl Acetate
0.00135





Cyclohexane
0.00135


Glycerin 99.7% USP
3.00000
Humectant
Glycerin
3.00000


FD&C Blue No. 1
0.00045
Colorant
CI 42090
0.00042


Granules






FD&C Yellow 6
0.00030
Colorant
CI 15985
0.00030


Hostapon SCI 85G
10.00000
Surfactant
Sodium Cocoyl
8.50000





Isethionate






Coconut Acid
1.00000





Sodium Isethionate
0.40000





Aqua
0.10000


Genapol LA030
3.00000
Emulsifying/
Laureth-3
3.00000




Surfactant




Tego Alkanol 16
6.00000
Emollient
Myristyl Alcohol
0.15000





Cetyl Alcohol
6.00000


SALICYLIC ACID USP
2.00000
Keratolytic
Salicylic Acid
2.00000


Empicol
9.26000
Anionic Surfactant
Sodium Laureth Sulfate
2.54650


ESB3/M6


Aqua
6.80610


Sodium
1.25000
Buffering agent
Sodium hydroxide
0.37500


Hydroxide 30%


Aqua
1.12500


Tego glycinate
6.13000
Non-ionic surfactant
Sodium
1.83900


818 M


cocoamphoacetate






Aqua
3.80060


Clearly Fresh
0.35000
Fragrance
Benzyl Salicylate
0.03228


E0525379


Limonene
0.01205





Parfum
0.35000


Genamin PQ 43
0.10000
Conditioning agent
Polyquaternium 43
0.08500





Aqua
0.01500


Aluminium oxide
8.00000
Abrasive agent
Alumina
8.00000


F100






Parabeads green
0.50000
Exfoliant
Mycrocristalline wax
0.48995





CI 77289
0.01000





Tocopherol (Processing aid)
0.00005


Purasal S/HQ
3.33
Moisturiser, skin
Aqua
1.33300


60

lightener, anti-
Sodium Lactate
2.00000




inflammatory




SymRepair
0.50
Anti-
Hexyldecanol
0.42000




inflammatory,
Bisabolol
0.02500




wound healing
Cetylhydroxyproline
0.02500





Palmitamide






Stearic Acid
0.02500






Brassica Campestris

0.00500





Sterols



Nicotinamide
2.00
Skin lightening,
Niacinamide
2.00000




anti-






inflammatory




Dipotassium
0.10
Anti-
Dipotassium
0.10000


Glycyrrhizate

inflammatory/
Glycyrrhizate





skin lightening




Allantoin
0.50
anti-
Allantoin
0.50000




inflammatory




Canadian Willowherb
0.50
Anti-

Epilobium

0.0100




inflammatory

angustifolium










Example 9



















% w/w


% w/w in
% w/w in



Trade
in


raw
final


Supplier
Name
Formula
Function
EU INCI Name
material
formula






















Purified
73.12
Solvent
Aqua
100
73.12



water


Akzo Nobel
Dissolvine
0.05
Sequestrant
Disodium EDTA
100
0.05



Na2


Noveon
Carbopol
0.60
Thickener
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl
100
0.6



Ultrez 20


Acrylate crosspolymer


RT
Veegum
0.25
Viscosity control
Magnesium Aluminum
97
0.2425


Vanderbilt
Ultra

(Thickener)
Silicate


Co



Titanium Dioxide
3
0.0075


CP Kelco
Keltrol RD
0.60
Emulsion
Xanthan Gum
100
0.6





stabilising





Viscosity control


sensient
Titanium
0.20
pigment
Titanium Dioxide
100
0.2



dioxide Ph



Eur


Cognis
Eutanol G
4.50
Emollient
Octyldodecanol
100
4.5


Croda
Arlamol HD
1.50
Emollient
Isohexadecane
100
1.5


Wacker
Silfar 100
2.00
Skin
Dimethicone
100
2.0





conditioning


Rhodia
Salicylic
2.00
Keratolytic
Salicylic Acid
100
2.0



acid

active


MGP
Denatured
4.80
Solvent
Alcohol Denat.
99.87
4.79376


Ingredientes
Ethanol


(Ethyl Alcohol)


Seppic
SEPIGEL
2.0
Emulsion
Water
35.583
0.71167



305

stabilising/
Polyacrylamide
40
0.8





Viscosity control
C13-14 Isoparaffin
18.917
0.37833






Laureth-7
5.5
0.11


Mane
CLEARLY
0.20
Fragrance
Benzyl salicylate
9.222
0.01844



FRESH


Limonene
3.443
0.00689



FRAGRANCE


Fragrance
100
0.2


Univar
Sodium
2.35
Buffering agent
Water
70
1.645



hydroxide


Sodium hydroxide
30
0.705



30% soln


Purac
Purasal
3.33
moisturiser, skin
Water
40
1.332



S/HQ 60

lightener, anti-
Sodium Lactate
60
1.998





inflammatory


Symrise
Symrepair
0.50
Anti-
Hexyldecanol
84
0.42





inflammatory,
Bisabolol
5.0
0.025





wound healing
Cetylhydroxyproline
5.0
0.025






Palmitamide






Stearic Acid
5.0
0.025







Brassica Campestris

1.0
0.005






Sterols


Rona
Nicotinamide
2.00
skin lightening,
Niacinamide
100
2.0


(S Black)


anti-





inflammatory


Jan Dekkar
Dipotassium
0.05
anti-
Dipotassium
100
0.05


(Maurazen)
Glycyrrhizate

inflammatory/
Glycyrrhizate





skin lightening









Example 10






















% w/w in
% w/w in



Trade
% w/w in


raw
final


Supplier
Name
Formula
Function
EU INCI Name
material
formula






















Purified
56.55685
Solvent
Aqua
100
56.55685



Water


BASF
Trilon BD
0.05
Sequestering
Disodium EDTA
100
0.050





Agent


P & G
Glycerin
5.00
Humectant
Glycerin
100
5.00


CP Kelco
Keltrol RD
1.00
Emulsion
Xanthan Gum
100
1.00





stabiliser/





Thickener


Rhodia
Salicylic
2.00
Active
Salicylic Acid
100
2.00



Acid


Huntsman
Empicol
10.70
Surfactant
Sodium Laureth
27.5
2.9425



ESB3/M6


Sulfate






Aqua
73.5
7.8645


Cognis
Cocoglucoside
1.00
Surfactant
Aqua
49
0.490



50%


Cocoglucoside
53
0.530


Evonik
Tego
1.31
Surfactant
Cocamidopropyl
37
0.485



Betaine


Betaine






Aqua
54
0.707






Sodium Chloride
7.3
0.0956


Brenntag
Sodium
1.20
pH Adjuster
Sodium Hydroxide
30
0.36



Hydroxide


Aqua
70
0.840


Brenntag
Kaolin
6.00
Clay
Hydrated
100
6.00






Aluminium Silicate


Brenntag
Bentonite
6.00
Sebum Absorber
Bentonite
100
6.00


Huntsman
Titanium
3.00
Opacifier
CI77891
100
3.00



Dioxide


Mane
Fragrance
0.30
Fragrance
Benzyl Salicylate
9.222
0.03



Clearly


Limonene
3.443
0.01



Fresh


Parfum
100
0.30


Sun Chem
Blue No. 1
0.0026
Colour
Cl 42090
100
0.00260


Sun Chem
Yellow No. 6
0.00055
Colour
Cl 15985
100
0.00055


Purac
Purasal
3.33
Moisturiser, Skin
Aqua
40
1.33



S/HQ 60

lightener, Anti-
Sodium Lactate
60
2.00





inflammatory


Rona
Nicotinamide
2.00
Skin lightening,
Niacinamide
100
2.00


(S Black)


Anti-





inflammatory


Jan Dekkar
Dipotassium
0.05
Skin lightening,
Dipotassium
100
0.05


(Maurazen)
Glycyrrhizate

Anti-
Glycyrrhizate





inflammatory


Symrise
SymRepair
0.50
Anti-
Hexyldecanol
84
0.42





inflammatory,
Bisabolol
5
0.03





Wound healing
Cetylhydroxyproline
5
0.03






Palmitamide






Stearic Acid
5
0.03







Brassica

1
0.01







Campestris







Sterols









Example 11—In Vitro Testing (EpiDerm Skin Model)




















IL-6 no
IL-6 +
TNFα no
TNFα +
IL-8 no
IL-8 no



MTT <
PMA
PMA
PMA
PMA
PMA
PMA


Material
95%
(pg/ml)
(pg/ml)
(pg/ml)
(pg/ml)
(pg/ml)
(pg/ml)






















Negative Control


−0.371

63.64

996.8


value


Positive control


−4.358

−0.378

48.5


(hydrocortisone)


Nicotinamide (NA)
96.8
−4.294
−2.712
−0.171
40.202
47.54
1383.235


Dipotassium
93.7
−1.781
7.591
−0.636
78.48
44.413
995.622


glycyrrhizinate


(GLYR)


Sodium Lactate
99.1
4.909
22.6
0.882
92.434
104.549
1368.319


(SLA)


Symrepair (SYM)
101.3
−4.231
1.512
−0.687
72.343
17.767
735.562


Salicylic acid (SCA)
103.2
−1.445
6.159
−0.068
12.265
72.757
362.253


SCA + NA
106.3
−4.231
−3.407
−0.481
5.535
38.963
392.411


GLYR + SCA + NA
105.6
−3.153
−0.877
−0.274
4.541
61.931
412.226


NA + GLYR + SLA
113.7
−2.837
1.955
−0.088
52.327
62.91
2513.021


Example 9 (NA +
99.7
−1.192
1.267
−0.171
9.802
88.766
938.475


GLYR + SLA +


SCA)









The purpose of the in vitro testing was to evaluate the potential anti-inflammatory action of compositions according to the present invention.


In vitro tests were carried out as follows:

    • take an irritant treated EpiDerm™ skin model. Initial inflammation was measured by the cytokine release after exposure to a single dose of irritant.
    • apply test compositions to the irritant treated EpiDerm skin
    • anti-inflammatory potential was then measured by reduction in cytokine release
    • specifically, the levels of cytokines TNF-α, IL-6 and IL-8 were measured to give a picture of the performance of the product across the lifecycle of an acne event or related skin inflammation.


Experimental design follows standard procedures, using phorbol-12-myristate 13-acetate (PMA) as irritant. Test samples were applied by pipette as solutions to the Epiderm tissue, and each sample was tested in triplicate against positive and negative controls. Anti-inflammatory activity measured by relative decrease in cytokine release in irritant-treated tissue compared to non-irritant treated tissue.


The separate active components of an example according to the invention were tested, along with some combinations in pairs and one combination lacking the salicylic acid. Where these actives were applied, they were in the same w/w ratio as in the example composition, example 9. The data shown in the table are the cytokine release values in pg/ml, wherein a lower figure shows a lower release rate of cytokines, i.e., a lower inflammation.


It will be seen that salicylic acid alone acts inter alia as an anti-inflammatory, but that unexpectedly it also acts with the combination of ingredients in the example according to the invention to reduce significantly the inflammatory behaviour of each of these ingredients. This synergistic behaviour is totally unexpected and permits the formulation of products according to the invention such as the one tested which have a broad range of active ingredients to deal with traumas arising from every stage in the lifecycle of a specific acne event or related skin inflammation.


While several possible embodiments are disclosed above, embodiments of the present invention are not so limited. These exemplary embodiments are not intended to be exhaustive or to unnecessarily limit the scope of the invention, but instead were chosen and described in order to explain the principles of the present invention so that others skilled in the art may practice the invention. Indeed, various modifications of the invention in addition to those described herein will become apparent to those skilled in the art from the foregoing description. Such modifications are intended to fall within the scope of the appended claims.

Claims
  • 1. A cosmetic method for improving the appearance of skin afflicted by acne lesions, said method comprising reducing the redness of said lesions by the topical application of a skincare composition consisting of: salicylic acid or a salt thereof in a concentration of 1 wt % to 3 wt %;niacinamide in a concentration of 0.5 wt % to 5 wt %;one or more actives selected from the group consisting of glycyrrhizinic acid or a salt thereof; cetylhydroxyproline palmitamide; lactic acid or a salt thereof; and bisabolol;Epilobium angustifolium extract in a concentration of 0 to 1 wt %;a chelating agent in a concentration of 0.01 wt % to 0.1 wt %;a gelling/thickening agent in a concentration of 0.1 wt % to 5 wt %;an emulsifier in a concentration of 0 wt % to 12 wt %;a mixed solvent system comprising water and a co-solvent wherein the co-solvent is present in a concentration of 0 wt % to about 5 wt % and the water forms the remainder of the composition;an emollient in a concentration of 0 wt % to 8 wt %;a humectant or moisturizer in a concentration of 0 wt % to 10 wt %;a surfactant in a concentration of 0 wt % to about 38 wt %;a preservative in a concentration of 0 wt % to 0.3 wt %;an abrasive in a concentration of 0 wt % to 8.5 wt %;an opacifying agent in a concentration of 0 wt % to 15 wt %;a pH adjuster in a concentration of 0 wt % to 3 wt %;a conditioning agent in a concentration of 0 wt % to 1.5 wt %;a perfume in a concentration of 0 wt % to 0.35 wt %; anda coloring in a concentration of 0 wt % to 0.00315 wt %,wherein the composition has a viscosity of from about 10,000 mPa/s to about 200,000 mPa/s,wherein the glycyrrhizinic acid or a salt thereof, if present, is in a concentration of 0.01 wt % to 0.5 wt %,wherein the cetylhydroxyproline palmitamide, if present, is in a concentration of 0.01 wt % to 0.5 wt %,wherein the lactic acid or a salt thereof, if present, is in a concentration of 1 wt % to 3 wt %, andwherein the bisabolol, if present, is in a concentration of 0.001 wt % to 0.5 wt %.
  • 2. The method of claim 1, wherein the concentration of salicylic acid or a salt thereof is about 2 wt %.
  • 3. The method of claim 1, wherein the concentration of glycyrrhizinic acid or a salt thereof is 0.05 wt % to 0.1 wt %.
  • 4. The method of claim 1, wherein the concentration of cetylhydroxyproline palmitamide is about 0.025 wt %.
  • 5. The method of claim 1, wherein the concentration of lactic acid or a salt thereof is about 2 wt %.
  • 6. The method of claim 1, wherein the concentration of bisabolol is 0.02 wt % to 0.5 wt %.
  • 7. The method of claim 1, wherein the concentration of bisabolol is about 0.025 wt %.
  • 8. The method of claim 1, wherein the concentration of niacinamide is about 2 wt %.
  • 9. The method of claim 1, wherein the concentration of Epilobium angustifolium is 0.001 wt % to 1 wt %.
  • 10. The method of claim 1, wherein the concentration of Epilobium angustifolium is 0.01 wt % to 0.5 wt %.
  • 11. The method as claimed in claim 1, wherein the pH of the skincare composition is in the range from 3.5 to 6.0.
  • 12. The method as claimed in claim 1, wherein the skincare composition has the form of one of an aqueous solution surfactant wash, an oily solution surfactant wash, a dispersion, an emulsion, or a gel.
  • 13. The method as claimed in claim 12, wherein the skincare composition has the form of an emulsion comprising an oil-in-water emulsion.
  • 14. The method as claimed in claim 12, wherein the skincare composition has the form of a gel comprising an aqueous gel.
  • 15. An article comprising a fibrous substrate configured for topical application of the skincare composition according to claim 1.
  • 16. The article as claimed in claim 15, the fibrous substrate selected from the group consisting of cellulose fibers, cotton fibers, and a mixture thereof.
  • 17. A method for the treatment of acne comprising: topically applying a skincare composition according to claim 1 to the skin of a patient.
  • 18. The method as claimed in claim 17, which is a cosmetic method.
  • 19. The method as claimed in claim 17, which is a therapeutic method.
  • 20. The use of the composition according to claim 1 in a composition for the treatment of acne by topical application of the composition to the skin.
  • 21. A method for reducing irritancy associated with the topical application of a skincare composition comprising reducing the irritancy by the topical application of the skincare composition according to claim 1.
  • 22. A cosmetic method for improving the appearance of skin afflicted by acne lesions comprising reducing the redness of lesions by the topical application of a skincare composition according to claim 1.
  • 23. The method as claimed in claim 12, wherein the skincare composition has the form of an emulsion selected from the group consisting of an oil-in-water emulsion, a water-in-oil emulsion, and a microemulsion.
Priority Claims (1)
Number Date Country Kind
0912481 Jul 2009 GB national
CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS

This application is a continuation application of and claims priority to U.S. patent application Ser. No. 16/561,257, filed 5 Sep. 2019, which is a continuation application of and claims priority to U.S. patent application Ser. No. 15/988,595, filed 24 May 2018 now issued as U.S. Pat. No. 10,441,822, which is a continuation of and claims priority to U.S. patent application Ser. No. 13/384,233, filed 2 Mar. 2012 now issued as U.S. Pat. No. 10,065,052, which is a U.S. National Stage of International Application No. PCT/GB2010/051170, filed 19 Jul. 2010, which claims the benefit of GB 0912481.9, filed 17 Jul. 2009, all of which are herein fully incorporated by reference.

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Related Publications (1)
Number Date Country
20200147416 A1 May 2020 US
Continuations (3)
Number Date Country
Parent 16561257 Sep 2019 US
Child 16743362 US
Parent 15988595 May 2018 US
Child 16561257 US
Parent 13384233 US
Child 15988595 US