Patent Application
20060013793
The present disclosure relates to a solid water-in-oil emulsion comprising at least one wax and at least one silicone surfactant, which may be used in the cosmetics field. The present disclosure also relates to a process for making up or caring for human skin, comprising applying the composition to the skin.
The makeup composition disclosed herein is, for example, a skin makeup composition, such as a foundation, an eyeshadow, a makeup rouge, a concealer product, a body makeup product or a lipstick. In one embodiment, the present disclosure relates to a foundation composition.
The care composition may be a skincare product such as a skincare base, a care cream (day cream, night cream or anti-wrinkle cream), a makeup base, a lipcare composition (lip balm), an antisun composition or self-tanning composition, and a deodorant.
Skin makeup products such as foundations are known in diverse galenical forms, such as loose powder, compact powder, cast solid product, stick, and fluid cream.
The cast solid products may be anhydrous or in the form of emulsions. These emulsions generally contain fatty substances such as oils and solid waxes, water and a particulate phase generally composed of fillers and pigments.
The solid emulsion does not flow under its own weight at room temperature and is suitable for packaging in a case: to apply the product, the user can take the product up directly by crumbling it using the fingers or an applicator such as a sponge. For good uptake of the product by the user, the solid emulsion should have a satisfactory hardness, such as a hardness that varies little over time, for example, after storage at temperatures above room temperature (25° C.). However, certain solid emulsions may show a drop in their hardness over time: the product then has a tendency to soften, making its uptake more difficult, or even unpleasant for the user, who may have difficulty in controlling the amount of product taken during the uptake. Furthermore, an initially solid product that becomes soft may not be appealing to the user.
Disclosed herein is a solid makeup or skincare composition that can have a stable hardness over time, for example, after storage for at least one month at 37° C.
Further disclosed herein is a solid composition that can have good hardness while at the same time having a rich, creamy texture when applied to the skin.
The present inventor has discovered that by using an ester oil, a wax and a particular emulsifying surfactant, it is possible to obtain a solid emulsion that has stable hardness over time, such as after one month at 37° C., and that also has a rich, creamy texture when applied to the skin.
Thus disclosed herein is a solid water-in-oil emulsion comprising an aqueous phase emulsified in a fatty phase comprising at least one ester oil and at least one wax, and at least one silicone surfactant comprising at least one polyhydroxylated chain.
Further disclosed herein is a solid water-in-oil emulsion comprising an aqueous phase emulsified with at least one emulsifying surfactant in a fatty phase comprising at least one ester oil and at least one wax, and at least one alkyl dimethicone copolyol chosen from C8-C22 alkyl dimethicone copolyols, wherein the emulsion has, after at least one month at 37° C., a hardness such that the penetration force is greater than or equal to 45 g.
Even further disclosed herein is a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for making up or caring for the skin, comprising applying to the skin the composition as defined above.
As used herein, the term “solid composition” means a composition that does not flow under its own weight at room temperature (25° C.) after one hour.
The solid emulsion disclosed herein comprises at least one ester oil.
The term “ester oil” means an oil that is liquid at room temperature (25° C.) comprising at least one ester functional group. The at least one ester oil used herein is chosen, for example, from monoesters.
The ester oil may, for example, be chosen from the monoesters of formula R1COOR2 wherein R1 is chosen from linear and branched hydrocarbon-based chains comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, such as from 4 to 30 carbon atoms and further such as from 7 to 20 carbon atoms, and R2 is chosen from branched hydrocarbon-based chains comprising from 3 to 40 carbon atoms, such as from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and further such as from 16 to 26 carbon atoms.
Examples of the ester oils that may be mentioned include isodecyl neopentanoate; isocetyl octanoate; isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl isononanoate, tridecyl isononanoate; hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate; isopropyl myristate, isocetyl myristate, isotridecyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate; isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isooctyl palmitate, isocetyl palmitate, isodecyl palmitate, isostearyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; isopropyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate; 2-octyldodecyl erucate; and mixtures thereof.
The at least one ester oil may be present in the emulsion disclosed herein in an amount ranging, for example, from 5% to 20% by weight, such as from 7% to 15% by weight, and further such as from 8% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The fatty phase may also comprise at least one volatile silicone oil.
The term “volatile oil” means an oil (or non-aqueous medium) that can evaporate on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, which is liquid at room temperature, for example, having a non-zero vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, such as having a vapor pressure ranging, for example, from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10-3 to 300 mmHg), such as from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and further such as from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
The volatile silicone oil may be chosen, for example, from linear and cyclic silicone oils with a viscosity at room temperature of less than 8 mm2/s comprising, for example, from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, wherein these silicone oils optionally comprise at least one group chosen from alkyl and alkoxy groups comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As the volatile silicone oils that may be used herein, mention may be made, for example, of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
The at least one volatile silicone oil may be present in an amount ranging from 5% to 40% by weight, such as from 10% to 30% by weight, and further such as from 15% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
In at least one embodiment, the total content of water and the volatile silicone oil in the composition is less than or equal to 50% by weight, ranging, for example, from 30% to 50% by weight, such as from 40% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The fatty phase of the emulsion may comprise at least one additional oil other than the at least one ester oil and the at least one volatile silicone oil described above.
The at least one additional oil may be chosen, for example, from volatile and non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils and fluoro oils.
The term “hydrocarbon-based oil” means an oil formed essentially from, or even consisting of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and containing no silicon or fluorine atoms. It may comprise at least one group chosen from alcohol, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and amide groups.
The term “fluoro oil” means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
As the additional volatile oil that may be used herein, mention may be made, for example, of:
As additional non-volatile oil that may be used herein, mention may be made, for example, of hydrocarbon-based oils of mineral or synthetic origin, such as linear or branched hydrocarbons, for instance liquid paraffin or derivatives thereof, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as PARLEAM sold by the company Nippon Oil Fats, and squalane of synthetic or plant origin.
Additional non-volatile oils that may also be mentioned include, for example, hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin with a high triglyceride content, comprising fatty acid esters of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have varied chain lengths, wherein these chains may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated, for example, triglycerides of a fatty acid comprising, for example, from 4 to 22 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, and capric/caprylic acid triglycerides, or alternatively hydroxylated triglycerides, such as sweet almond oil, beauty-leaf oil, palm oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, arara oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, apricot oil, castor oil, alfalfa oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, macadamia oil, musk rose oil, hazelnut oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, cereal (corn, wheat, barley or rye) germ oil and shea butter oil;
C8-C26 higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid; C8-C26 higher fatty alcohols such as oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol or octyldodecanol; synthetic ethers comprising at least 7 carbon atoms, silicone oils such as linear, optionally phenylated polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) that are liquid at room temperature, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, which are liquid, optionally substituted with at least one group chosen from aliphatic and aromatic groups, such as alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendent and/or at the end of a silicone chain, wherein these groups comprise from 2 to 24 carbon atoms and are optionally fluorinated, or comprise at least one functional group chosen, for example, from hydroxyl, thiol and amine groups;
For example, the at least one additional oil is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, such as from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In one embodiment of the emulsion disclosed herein, the content of the at least one additional oil is 0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
In at least one embodiment, the emulsion comprises as sole oil an ester oil and optionally a volatile silicone oil, as described above.
In at least one embodiment, the at least one wax present in the emulsion disclosed herein is chosen from waxes with a hardness ranging from 5 MPa to 9 MPa, such as from 6 MPa to 9 MPa, and further such as from 7 MPa to 9 MPa.
As used herein, the term “wax” means a lipophilic fatty compound that is solid at room temperature (25° C.), with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, having a melting point of greater than 30° C. which may be up to 200° C., a hardness of greater than 0.5 MPa, and having an anisotropic crystal organization in the solid state. By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but on returning the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, recrystallization of the wax in the oils of the mixture is obtained.
The hardness of the wax is determined by measuring the compression force, measured at 20° C. using the texturometer sold under the name TA-XT2i by the company Rheo, equipped with a stainless-steel cylinder 2 mm in diameter travelling at a measuring speed of 0.1 mm/s, and penetrating into the wax to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm. To perform the hardness measurement, the wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax+20° C. The molten wax is poured into a container 30 mm in diameter and 20 mm deep. The wax is recrystallized at room temperature (25° C.) for 24 hours and is then stored for at least 1 hour at 20° C. before performing the hardness measurement. The hardness value is the measured compression force divided by the surface area of the texturometer cylinder in contact with the wax.
As disclosed herein, the waxes may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based waxes, silicone waxes and fluoro waxes, optionally comprising at least one functional group chosen from ester and hydroxyl functional groups.
The wax having the hardness as defined above may be chosen from carnauba wax, microcrystalline waxes, ozokerites, hydrogenated jojoba oil, polyethylene waxes such as the wax sold under the name “Performalene 400 Polyethylene” by the company New Phase Technologies, silicone waxes, for instance poly(C24-C28)alkylmethyldimethylsiloxane, such as the product sold under the name “Abil Wax 9810” by the company Goldschmidt, palm butter, the C20-C40 alkyl stearate sold under the name “Kester Wax K82H” by the company Kester Keunen, stearyl benzoate, shellac wax, and mixtures thereof. For example, a wax chosen from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ozokerites, hydrogenated jojoba oil and polyethylene waxes is used. In at least one embodiment, the wax is chosen from candelilla wax and ozokerite, and mixtures thereof.
The at least one wax may be present in the composition disclosed herein in an amount ranging from 1% to 10% by weight, such as from 2% to 7% by weight, and further such as from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The emulsion as disclosed herein may comprise at least one silicone surfactant comprising at least one polyhydroxylated chain, which may be chosen from silicone polymers comprising at least one polyhydroxylated chain and silicone elastomers comprising at least one polyhydroxylated chain. The term “polyhydroxylated chain” means a hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least two hydroxyl groups.
The silicone polymers of the formula (I′) below may, for example, be used:
R1aR2bR3cSiO(4-a-b-c)/2 (I′)
When the radicals R are each a radical chosen from C1 to C30 alkyl radicals, where appropriate substituted with at least one fluorine atom, aryl radicals and aralkyl radicals, they have the same meaning as the radical R1 as defined above.
It should be noted that the radicals R1, R2 and R3 of the silicone polymers of formula (I′), as defined above, are not sequentially distributed, but are randomly distributed, i.e., they appear in the structure of the polymer without any determined order.
In a):
In b):
In one embodiment, R1 may be a hydroxylated radical or a radical derived from the addition reaction of a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkenyl ether, in which d=0 and thus of formula:
—O—(C2H4O)e(C3H6O)fR4
In this case, when e and f are equal to zero, then R1 is an alkoxy group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, for example, a C4 to C10 lower alkoxy radical, such as butoxy or pentoxy, or a C11 to C30 higher alkoxy radical, such as oleoxy or stearoxy, for example, cetyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, or a radical derived from an acid or from a fatty acid, such as acetic acid, lactic acid, butyric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid.
When e and f are greater than 1, then R1 is a hydroxyl radical derived from the addition reaction of an alkylene oxide.
When e and f are equal to zero, d is, for example, equal to 3, 5 or 11. In this case, R1, depending on the nature of the substituent R4, is an allyl ether, pentenyl ether or undecenyl ether radical, or an allyl stearyl ether, pentenyl behenyl ether or undecenyl oleyl ether radical.
When e and f are other than zero, an alkoxy radical and an ester radical are present via a polyoxyalkylene group.
Irrespective of the nature of e and f, d ranges, for example, from 3 to 5.
In one embodiment, the radical R1 may be any one of the radicals defined above, or a combination of two or more of these radicals.
For example, R1 is an alkyl radical chosen from a methyl radical and a lauryl radical, and combinations thereof.
Moreover, when R1 corresponds to two or more radicals, for example, a methyl radical and a lauryl radical, these radicals appear randomly in the structure, and with a frequency that may be different for each of the radicals.
For example, at least 50% of the radicals R1, such as at least 70% of the radicals R1 and further such as 100% of the radicals R1, are methyl radicals.
In c):
In at least one embodiment, Q is a divalent radical chosen from —(CH2)2— and —(CH2)3—.
The glycerol residues may be compounds of the following formulae, wherein Q has the same meaning as in formula (III) above, and s and t are integers ranging from 1 to 20, such as from 1 to 15, further such as from 1 to 10 and even further such as from 1 to 5.
In the above formulae, at least one hydroxyl group may be replaced with at least one group chosen from alkoxy groups and ester groups.
The saccharide radicals that may be used in the general formula (III) may be of monosaccharide type, such as glycosyl, mannosyl, galactosyl, ribosyl, arabinosyl, xylosyl or fructosyl groups, of oligosaccharide type, such as maltosyl, cellobiosyl, lactosyl or maltotriosyl, or of polysaccharide type, such as cellulose or starch.
For example, the saccharide groups are of monosaccharide or oligosaccharide type.
In d):
For example, in at least one embodiment, the silicone polymer of general formula (I′), which may be used in the cosmetic compositions disclosed herein, is such that:
In at least one embodiment, the silicone polymer of formula (I′), which may be used in the cosmetic compositions disclosed herein, is such that:
For example, the silicone polymer of formula (I′) used in the composition disclosed herein is chosen from polyglyceryl-3 polymethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, laurylpolyglyceryl-3 polymethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone and polyglyceryl-3 disiloxane dimethicone, the respective formulae of which are:
The silicone polymers of formula (I′) are described in detail in European patent application EP 1 213 316, which is incorporated herein by reference.
In one embodiment, the silicone polymer of general formula (I′) is chosen from the polymers sold by the company Shin-Etsu under the references KF 6100, KF 6104 and KF 6105.
The polymer sold under the reference KF 6104 is, for example, suitable for preparing the cosmetic compositions as disclosed herein.
An emulsifying elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane comprising at least one polyhydroxylated chain may also be used as emulsifier.
The elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane may be obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane comprising at least one hydrogen linked to silicon and of polyhydroxylated or polyoxyalkylenated compounds comprising at least one ethylenically unsaturated group, such as in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
For example, the elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane is obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction of (A) diorganopolysiloxane comprising at least two hydrogens each linked to a silicon, and (B) glycerolated compounds comprising at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups, such as in the presence of (C) a platinum catalyst.
Further, for example, the organopolysiloxane may be obtained by reaction of a polyglycerolated compound comprising dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and methylhydrogenopolysiloxane comprising trimethylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
Compound (A) is the base reagent for the formation of elastomeric organopolysiloxane and the crosslinking is performed by an addition reaction of compound (A) with compound (B) in the presence of the catalyst (C).
Compound (A) is, for example, an organopolysiloxane comprising at least two hydrogen atoms linked to different silicon atoms in each molecule.
Compound (A) may have any molecular structure, such as a linear chain or branched chain structure or a cyclic structure.
Compound (A) may have a viscosity at 25° C. ranging from 1 to 50 000 centistokes, for example, in order to have good miscibility with compound (B).
The organic groups linked to silicon atoms of the compound (A) may be chosen from alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetyl or stearyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group. The organic group is, for example, chosen from methyl, phenyl and lauryl groups.
Compound (A) may thus be chosen from methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes comprising trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers comprising trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane cyclic copolymers, or dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane-laurylmethylsiloxane copolymers comprising trimethylsiloxy end groups.
Compound (B) may be a polyglycerolated compound of formula (B′) below:
CmH2m-1—O—[Gly]n-CmH2m-1 (B′)
wherein m is an integer ranging from 2 to 6, n is an integer ranging from 2 to 200, such as from 2 to 100, further such as from 2 to 50; for example, n ranges from 2 to 20, such as from 2 to 10 and further such as from 2 to 5; in one embodiment, n equals to 3; Gly is: —CH2—CH(OH)—CH2—O— or —CH2—CH(CH2OH)—O—.
For example, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of compound (B) and the number of hydrogen atoms linked to silicon atoms per molecule of compound (A) is at least 4.
Compound (A) is, for example, present in an amount such that the molar ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms linked to silicon atoms in compound (A) and the total amount of all the ethylenically unsaturated groups in compound (B) ranges from 1:1 to 20:1.
Compound (C) is the crosslinking reaction catalyst, and is, for example, chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum on a support.
The catalyst (C) is, for example, present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, such as from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of compounds (A) and (B).
The emulsifying silicone elastomer may be conveyed in gel form in at least one of the hydrocarbon-based oil and the silicone oil. In these gels, the emulsifying elastomer is often in the form of non-spherical particles.
Polyglycerolated elastomers are described, for example, in patent application WO-A-2004/024 798, the content of which is incorporated herein by reference.
Polyglycerolated silicone elastomers that may be used include, for example, those sold under the names “KSG-710”, “KSG-810”, “KSG-820”, “KSG-830” and “KSG-840” by the company Shin-Etsu.
The silicone surfactant comprising at least one polyhydroxylated chain may be present in the emulsion in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, such as from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The emulsion disclosed herein may comprise as emulsifier at least one alkyl dimethicone copolyol chosen from C8-C22 alkyl dimethicone copolyols, i.e., an oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polymethyl (C8-C22)alkyl dimethyl methyl siloxane.
The C8-C22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol is, for example, a compound of formula (I) below:
wherein:
The C8-C22 alkyl dimethicone copolyols that may be mentioned include, for example, cetyl dimethicone copolyol, such as the product sold under the name Abil EM-90 by the company Goldschmidt.
The C8-C22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol may be present in the emulsion in an amount ranging, for example, from 0.1% to 5% by weight, such as from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The emulsion as disclosed herein may comprise at least one additional emulsifying surfactant, which is independently different from the at least one silicone surfactant comprising at least one polyhydroxylated chain or from the C8-C22 alkyl dimethicone copolyols described above. The at least one additional emulsifying surfactant is chosen, for example, from surfactants that allow a water-in-oil emulsion to be obtained, such as a surfactant with an HLB (hydrophilic/lipophilic balance) of less than 7; such an emulsifying surfactant may be chosen, for example, from fatty acid esters of polyols, for instance glyceryl or sorbitol mono-, di-, tri- or sesqui-oleates or -stearates, glyceryl or polyethylene glycol laurates; alkyl or alkoxy dimethicone copolyols comprising an alkyl or alkoxy chain that is pendent or at the end of the silicone skeleton, for example, comprising from 6 to 22 carbon atoms; polymers such as polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of glycol, and silicone surfactants comprising at least one polyhydroxylated chain.
As the at least one additional surfactant that may be used herein to obtain a W/O emulsion, mention may be made, for example, of polymers such as polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of glycol with water-in-oil emulsifying properties.
The fatty acid ester of the emulsifying polymer is, for example, polyhydroxylated. In one embodiment, this polymer is a block polymer, such as of ABA structure, comprising poly(hydroxylated ester) blocks and polyethylene glycol blocks.
The fatty acid ester of the emulsifying polymer defined above generally has a chain comprising from 12 to 20 carbon atoms such as from 14 to 18 carbon atoms. The esters may be chosen, for example, from oleates, palmitates and stearates.
The polyethylene glycol blocks of the emulsifying polymer as defined above comprise, for example, from 4 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide such as from 20 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide.
One polymer surfactant that is suitable for producing the compositions disclosed herein is, for example, 30 EO polyethylene glycol dipolyhydroxystearate, sold under the trade name “Arlacel P 135” by the company ICI.
The at least one additional surfactant other than the silicone surfactant comprising at least one polyhydroxylated chain or the C8-C22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol described above may be present in the emulsion disclosed herein in an amount ranging, for example, from 0.05% to 3% by weight, such as from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The aqueous phase of the solid emulsion disclosed herein comprises water. The water may be chosen from floral water such as cornflower water, mineral water such as eau de Vittel, eau de Lucas or eau de La Roche Posay, and spring water. The water may be present in the emulsion disclosed herein in an amount ranging, for example, from 10% to 40% by weight, such as from 15% to 30% by weight and further such as from 15% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The aqueous phase may also comprise solvents that are water-miscible (at room temperature of 25° C.), for instance monoalcohols comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol;
The emulsion disclosed herein may comprise at least one water-miscible organic solvent, such as a polyol, in an amount ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, such as from 3% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The aqueous phase may also comprise at least one stabilizer chosen, for example, from sodium chloride, magnesium dichloride and magnesium sulfate.
The aqueous phase may also comprise any water-soluble or water-dispersible compound that is compatible with an aqueous phase, such as gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners and surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
The aqueous phase may be present in the emulsion disclosed herein in an amount ranging, for example, from 25% to 50% by weight, such as from 25% to 45% by weight, and further such as from 25% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
The fatty phase of the emulsion may also comprise at least one pasty fatty substance.
As used herein, the term “pasty” means a lipophilic fatty compound which undergoes a reversible solid/liquid change of state, having in the solid state an anisotropic crystal organization, and comprising at a temperature of 23° C. a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
As used herein, the term “pasty compound” means a compound having a hardness at 20° C. ranging from 0.001 to 0.5 MPa such as from 0.002 to 0.4 MPa.
The hardness of the pasty compound is measured according to a method of penetration of a probe in a sample of the compound, for example, using a texture analyzer (for example the TA-XT2i machine from Rheo) equipped with a stainless-steel cylinder 2 mm in diameter. The hardness measurement is performed at 20° C. at the center of five samples. The cylinder is introduced into each sample at a pre-speed of 1 mm/s and then at a measuring speed of 0.1 mm/s, the penetration depth being 0.3 mm. The hardness value revealed is that of the maximum peak.
This pasty compound is also, at a temperature of 23° C., in the form of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. In other words, the starting melting point of the pasty compound is less than 23° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 23° C. may be present in an amount ranging from 9% to 97% by weight of the compound. This liquid fraction at 23° C. is present, for example, in an amount ranging from 15% to 85% by weight, such as from 40% to 85% by weight, relative to the weight of the compound.
The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23° C. is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at 23° C. to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound.
The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is the heat consumed by the compound to change from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty compound is said to be in the solid state when all of its mass is in solid crystalline form. The pasty compound is said to be in the liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form.
The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instrument, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10° C. per minute, according to standard ISO 11357-3:1999. The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is the amount of energy required to make the compound change from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g.
The heat of fusion consumed at 23° C. is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state that it has at 23° C., comprising a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
The liquid fraction of the pasty compound, measured at 32° C., is present in an amount ranging, for example, from 30% to 100% by weight, such as from 80% to 100% by weight, and further such as from 90% to 100% by weight, relative to the weight of the compound. When the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32° C. is equal to 100%, the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than, or equal to 32° C.
The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32° C. is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at 32° C. to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound. The heat of fusion consumed at 32° C. is calculated in the same manner as the heat of fusion consumed at 23° C.
The pasty compound may, for example, be chosen from synthetic compounds and compounds of plant origin. A pasty compound may be obtained by synthesis from starting materials of plant origin.
The pasty compound may, for example, be chosen from:
The pasty compound is, for example, chosen from polymers, such as hydrocarbon-based polymers.
Silicone and/or Fluoro Pasty Compounds
In one embodiment, the silicone and fluoro pasty compound is polymethyl trifluoropropyl methylalkyl dimethylsiloxane, sold under the name X22-1088 by Shin-Etsu.
Polyether Pasty Compounds
Among the liposoluble polyethers, examples include copolymers of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide with C6-C30 long-chain alkylene oxides, for example, such that the weight ratio of the ethylene oxide and/or of the propylene oxide to the alkylene oxides in the copolymer ranges from 5:95 to 70:30. In this family, mention will be made, for example, of copolymers such that the long-chain alkylene oxides are arranged in blocks with an average molecular weight ranging from 1000 to 10 000, for example, a polyoxyethylene/polydodecyl glycol block copolymer such as the ethers of dodecanediol (22 mol) and polyethylene glycol (45 EO) sold under the brand name Elfacos ST9 by Akzo Nobel.
Among the esters, examples include:
The aliphatic carboxylic acid comprises from 4 to 30 such as from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. It is chosen, for example, from hexanoic acid, heptanoic acid, octanoic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, nonanoic acid, decanoic acid, undecanoic acid, dodecanoic acid, tridecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, pentadecanoic acid, hexadecanoic acid, hexyldecanoic acid, heptadecanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, isostearic acid, nonadecanoic acid, eicosanoic acid, isoarachidic acid, octyldodecanoic acid, heneicosanoic acid and docosanoic acid, and mixtures thereof.
The aliphatic carboxylic acid is, for example, branched.
The aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester is, for example, derived from a hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic acid comprising from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, such as from 10 to 34 carbon atoms and further such as from 12 to 28 carbon atoms, and from 1 to 20 hydroxyl groups, such as from 1 to 10 hydroxyl groups and further such as from 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups. The aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester is chosen, for example, from:
The aliphatic esters of an ester are, for example, chosen from:
Among the pasty compounds of plant origin, examples include an oxyethylenated (5 EO) oxypropylenated (5 PO) mixture of soybean sterols and of pentaerythritol, sold under the name LANOLIDE by the company Vevy.
A pasty fatty substance that is used herein is, for example, a block copolymer of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide and of an alkylene oxide comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, wherein the copolymer has a weight-average molecular weight ranging from 5000 to 8000.
For example, the alkylene oxide of the copolymer may comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, further such as from 10 to 18 carbon atoms and even further such as from 10 to 14 carbon atoms.
The weight-average molecular weight of the copolymer ranges, for example, from 5000 to 8000, such as from 5500 to 7000, further such as from 5500 to 6500 and even further such as from 5800 to 6200.
The copolymer comprises, for example, from 35 to 55 ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide units and from 15 to 30 alkylene oxide units comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms.
In at least one embodiment, the copolymer is such that the ratio between the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide units and the number of alkylene oxide units comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms ranges from 1.5:1 to 2.5:1, such as from 1.8:1 to 2.3:1 and further such as from 1.9:1 to 2.1:1.
Such copolymers are described, for example, in document FR-A-2 425 848 and sold under the name “Elfacos® ST 9” by the company Akzo Nobel.
The pasty fatty substance may be present in the composition disclosed herein in an amount ranging, for example, from 1% to 25% by weight, such as from 1% to 18% by weight, and further such as from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
For example, the solid emulsion disclosed herein has a hardness after at least one month at 37° C. such that the penetration force is greater than 45 g, such as ranging from 45 g to 150 g.
The term “hardness after at least one month at 37° C.” means the hardness measured after storing the solid emulsion for at least one month at 37° C., for example, one month starting from the end of preparation of the solid emulsion.
For example, the solid emulsion has a hardness such that the penetration force after 24 hours at 20° C. (such as starting from the end of preparation of the solid emulsion) and after at least one month at 37° C. is greater than or equal to 45 grams (g), such as ranging from 45 g to 150 g.
In one embodiment, the hardness of the solid emulsion after at least one month at 37° C. ranges from 50 g to 130 g, such as from 60 g to 130 g and further such as from 70 g to 130 g.
The hardness of the emulsion is measured according to the following protocol:
At the end of preparation of the emulsion, it is poured while hot into a dish and is maintained at 20° C. for 24 hours. The penetration force of the solid emulsion is then measured using a texturometer sold under the name TA-XT2i by the company Rheo, equipped with a TA24 measuring spindle 4 mm in diameter, from the company Stevens, using the following measuring conditions:
The penetration force expressed in grams is read on the machine.
The solid emulsion is then stored for one month at 37° C., and the emulsion is then placed at 20° C. for 24 hours before measuring the hardness (termed the hardness after one month at 37° C.) under the same conditions described above.
The emulsion disclosed herein may comprise at least one filler.
The term “fillers” means colorless or white, mineral or synthetic particles of any shape, which are insoluble in the medium of the composition irrespective of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured.
The fillers may be mineral or organic and of any shape, in platelet form, spherical or oblong, irrespective of the crystallographic shape (for example lamellar, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). Mention may be made, for example, of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, powders of polyamide (Nylon®), powders of poly-β-alanine, and powders of polyethylene, powders of tetrafluoroethylene polymers (Teflon®), lauroyllysine, starch, boron nitride, hollow polymer microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile, for instance Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), acrylic acid copolymers, silicone resin microbeads (for example Tospearls® from Toshiba), polyorganosiloxane elastomer particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and magnesium hydrocarbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres, glass or ceramic microcapsules, and metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms such as from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate.
The at least one filler may be present in the composition in an amount ranging, for example, from 0.1% to 25% by weight, such as from 1% to 20% by weight, and further such as from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
In one embodiment, the emulsion may comprise polymethyl methacrylate particles. For example, these particles are not film-forming, i.e., they do not form a continuous film when they are placed onto a support such as the skin.
The polymethyl methacrylate powders may be in the form of hollow or solid white spherical particles with a number-average size of micrometre order, ranging, for example, from 3 to 15 microns such as from 3 to 10 microns. The term “number-average size” means the size given by the statistical particle size distribution to half of the population, referred to as D50.
These polymethyl methacrylate particles may also be characterized by their density, which can vary, for example, as a function of the size of the spherical cavity of the particles.
As disclosed herein, the density of polymethyl methacrylate particles is assessed according to the following protocol, referred to as the packed density:
For example, the density of the polymethyl methacrylate particles that may be used herein may range from 0.3 to 1.5, such as from 0.5 to 1.5 and further such as from 1 to 1.5.
Among the polymethyl methacrylates that are suitable herein, mention may be made, for example, of the polymethyl methacrylate particles sold by the company Matsumoto Yushi Co. under the name “Micropearl M100”, by the company LCW under the name “Covabead LH 85” and those sold by the company Nihon Junyaku under the name “Jurymer MB1”.
The polymethyl methacrylate particles may be present in an amount ranging, for example, from 0.5% to 10% by weight, such as from 0.5% to 7% by weight, further such as from 1% to 20% by weight, and even further such as from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The emulsion disclosed herein may comprise at least one dyestuff that may be chosen from water-soluble or liposoluble dyes, pigments and nacres, and mixtures thereof.
The term “pigments” as used herein means white or colored, mineral or organic particles, which are insoluble in the liquid organic phase, and which are intended to color and/or opacify the composition.
The term “nacres” as used herein means-iridescent particles, produced, for example, by certain molluscs in their shell or, alternatively, synthesized, which are insoluble in the medium of the composition.
The term “dyes” as used herein means compounds, such as organic compounds, which are soluble in fatty substances, for instance oils, or in an aqueous-alcoholic phase.
The pigments may be mineral or organic pigments. Pigments that may be used include, for example, metal oxides, for instance iron oxides (such as yellow, red, brown and black iron oxide), titanium dioxides, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide and chromium oxide; manganese violet, ultramarine blue, Prussian blue, cobalt blue, ferric blue, bismuth oxychloride, nacre, mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, colored nacreous pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with, for example, ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the abovementioned type and nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride, and mixtures thereof.
Iron oxide or titanium oxide pigments are used in at least one embodiment, for example.
The pigments may, for example, be treated with a hydrophobic agent to make them compatible with the organic phase of the composition. The hydrophobic-treatment agent may be chosen, for example, from silicones, such as methicones, dimethicones or perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids, such as stearic acid; metal soaps, such as aluminium dimyristate, the aluminium salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkylsilanes, perfluoroalkylsilazanes, polyhexafluoropropylene oxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups, and amino acids; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof.
The N-acylamino acids may comprise an acyl group comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds may be, for example, aluminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.
The term “alkyl” mentioned in the compounds above means, for example, an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms such as from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.
Hydrophobic-treated pigments are described, for example, in European patent application EP-A-1 086 683.
The liposoluble dyes are chosen, for example, from Sudan Red, D&C Red No. 17, D&C Green No. 6, β-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, D&C Yellow No. 11, D&C Violet No. 2, D&C Orange No. 5, quinoline yellow, annatto and bromo acids.
The water-soluble dyes are chosen, for example, from beetroot juice, methylene blue and caramel.
The at least one dyestuff may be present in an amount ranging, for example, from 0.5% to 30% by weight, such as from 3% to 20% by weight, and further such as from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
In at least one embodiment, the emulsion may comprise at least one hydrophobic coated pulverulent material in an amount, for example, of less than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The at least one hydrophobic coated pulverulent material may be chosen, for example, from pulverulent fillers and dyestuffs, such as the fillers and pigments as described above. The pulverulent material is coated with a hydrophobic agent as described above.
The composition may comprise other common cosmetic ingredients that may be chosen, for example, from hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents and thickeners, antioxidants, fragrances, preserving agents, neutralizers, sunscreens, vitamins, moisturizers, self-tanning compounds, anti-wrinkle active agents, emollients, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, free-radical scavengers, sequestering agents and film-forming agents, and mixtures thereof.
A person skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional compound(s), and/or the amount thereof, such that the advantageous properties of the composition disclosed herein are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.
The composition disclosed herein may be prepared, for example, according to the following procedure:
The mixture of the constituents of the oily phase is first prepared by mixing together and heating, at a temperature ranging from 70° C. to 120° C., the waxes, the block copolymer of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide and of an alkylene oxide comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, and the non-volatile oils, followed by adding with stirring, at a temperature ranging from 60° C. to 80° C., the volatile oils, the fillers and the pigments.
The mixture of the constituents of the aqueous phase, comprising the water, the surfactants and the water-miscible solvents is prepared separately, with heating to a temperature ranging from 60° C. to 80° C.
Next, the aqueous phase is added to the oily phase, at a temperature ranging from 60° C. to 80° C. and the resulting mixture is stirred using a turbomixer until the water-in-oil emulsion is obtained. The emulsion is then poured into a container, for example, a dish, and then cooled to room temperature until the solid emulsion is obtained.
The disclosure is illustrated in greater detail by the non-limiting examples described below.
Other than in the examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients, reaction conditions, and so forth used in the specification and claims are to be understood as being modified in all instance by the term “about.” Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical parameters set forth in the following specification and attached claims are approximations that may vary depending upon desired properties sought to be obtained herein. At the very least, and not as an attempt to limit the application of the doctrine of equivalents to the scope of the claims, each numerical parameter should be construed in light of the number of significant digits and ordinary rounding approaches.
Notwithstanding that the numerical ranges and parameters setting forth the broad scope are approximations, the numerical values set forth in the specific examples are reported as precisely as possible. Any numerical value, however, inherently contain certain errors necessarily resulting from the standard deviation found in their respective testing measurements.
A solid foundation having the composition below was prepared:
The composition was prepared according to the following procedure:
The mixture comprising the waxes, the copolymer Elfacos ST 9 and the non-volatile oils was heated to 90° C. until a clear, uniform mixture was obtained; the volatile oils, the pigments and the fillers were then added with stirring, at 70° C. The mixture of the ingredients of the aqueous phase was then prepared with heating to 70° C., and the aqueous phase was then introduced at 70° C. into the oily phase, with stirring until the water-in-oil emulsion was obtained.
The emulsion was poured at 70° C. into a preheated dish and was then allowed to cool to room temperature until the solid emulsion was obtained.
A solid foundation was obtained, having a hardness of 118.2 g measured at 24 hours at 20° C. and a hardness of greater than 45 g measured after storage at 37° C. for one month, the hardness measurements being performed according to the protocol described above.
When applied to the skin, the foundation was rich and creamy.
A solid foundation having the composition below was prepared:
The composition was prepared according to the following procedure:
The mixture comprising the waxes, the copolymer Elfacos ST 9 and the non-volatile oils was heated to 90° C. until a clear, uniform mixture was obtained; the volatile oils, the pigments and the fillers were then added with stirring, at 70° C. The mixture of the ingredients of the aqueous phase was then prepared with heating to 70° C., and the aqueous phase was then introduced at 70° C. into the oily phase, with stirring until the water-in-oil emulsion was obtained.
The emulsion was poured at 70° C. into a preheated dish and was then allowed to cool to room temperature until the solid emulsion was obtained.
A solid foundation was obtained, having a hardness of 98 g measured at 24 hours at 20° C. and a hardness of 87 g measured after storage at 37° C. for one month, the hardness measurements being performed according to the protocol described above. This solid foundation thus had good hardness stability after storage for one month.
When applied to the skin, the foundation was rich and creamy.
A solid foundation having the composition below was prepared:
The emulsion was prepared in the same manner as that of Example 1.
A solid foundation was obtained, having a hardness of 87 g measured at 24 hours at 20° C. and a hardness of 78 g measured after storage at 37° C. for one month, the hardness measurements being performed according to the protocol described above. This solid foundation thus had good hardness stability after storage for one month.
When applied to the skin, the foundation was rich and creamy.
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| 04 51548 | Jul 2004 | FR | national |
| 04 51550 | Jul 2004 | FR | national |
This application claims benefit of U.S. Provisional Application No. 60/601,990, filed Aug. 17, 2004, and U.S. Provisional Application No. 60/602,328, filed Aug. 18, 2004, the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference. This application also claims benefit of priority under 35 U.S.C. § 119 to French Patent Application No. 04 51548, filed Jul. 16, 2004, and French Patent Application No. 04 51550, filed Jul. 16, 2004, the contents of which are also incorporated by reference.
| Number | Date | Country | |
|---|---|---|---|
| 60601990 | Aug 2004 | US | |
| 60602328 | Aug 2004 | US |
