Patent Grant
10245221
The present invention relates to compositions for coloring and cleansing hair using a one-part formulation. More specifically, the invention relates to shampoo compositions containing at least one cationic dye, a nonionic or amphoteric surfactant, a fragrance, and a combination of two stabilizers (antioxidants). For a specific embodiment with a particular nonionic surfactant, the invention provides a color depositing shampoo with improved foaming ability compared to existing color depositing shampoo products.
Basic cationic hair dyes have been available for use in cosmetic products for more than twenty years. They have been adapted for use in color refreshing shampoo and conditioners, temporary hair color gels, and cremes. The products are intended to enhance and refresh previously colored hair, neutralize an unwanted shade, bring new highlights, and create visible color change.
One of the main drawbacks for cationic dyes in many types of hair care products is they are not useful in combination with or within products containing anionic ingredients, particularly anionic surfactants. The combination of cationic dyes and anionic ingredient(s) in a single product, e.g., a color depositing shampoo, causes a reduction of foaming properties (in a shampoo, foaming is recognized as being a desirable attribute. A shampoo that does not foam or does not foam adequately or with a suitable foam quality generally has perceived consumer negatives) and reduced color deposition. The combination of the two could also cause precipitation of an unwanted anionic/cationic complex. Common industry practice therefore utilizes high levels/quantities of cationic dyes in order to compensate for these drawbacks while still achieving a desired level of color deposition. Consequently, existing color depositing shampoos must use greater amounts of dye in the products to account for the “waste” causing higher costs of goods and thus higher retail prices effectively rendering combined cationic dye with anionic surfactant products highly difficult to market.
The current industry alternative for color depositing shampoos is a combination of a cationic dye with amphoteric and/or nonionic surfactants. Those products do not suffer from the above stated disadvantages arising primarily from the opposing ionic charges of the dye and surfactant. Here again, however, there are well known disadvantages. One problem with coloring shampoos which are generally free of anionic surfactants (that is, they are based on nonionic, amphoteric and/or cationic surfactants) is that they have a tendency not to foam adequately or may have poor sensory properties associated with the foaming, such as a tendency for any foam that does generate to generate slowly, spread slowly, or to dissipate quickly. The viscosity of the product(s) is also difficult to control. Addition of a small amount of an anionic surfactant (which adds to the production steps and increases cost of goods) is sometimes done to improve the foaming properties of a dye product made with a nonionic, amphoteric and/or cationic surfactants, knowing the resulting product will suffer from decreased dye deposition and/or suffer long term stability issues such as tonal shifts, precipitation or separation.
Thus there is a need for a color depositing shampoo made with cationic dyes that is substantially free from anionic surfactants with good foaming properties to efficiently and effectively deliver the dyes to the hair. It would be highly beneficial to have a color depositing shampoo that can achieve equal, if not more, dye deposition (and thus color change) compared to existing products, using less dye within the compositions of those existing products. There is a need for a color depositing shampoo that has less waste of dye when used. There is a need for a lower cost to manufacture color depositing shampoo that can effectively deposit color with good foaming properties.
It is thus an object of the present invention to provide a shampoo based formulation that will efficiently color the hair and effectively clean the hair. It is also an object of the invention to provide a shampoo based formulation that will replace ordinary shampoo but also be useful as a hair dye, a composition with improved and more desirable foaming properties.
In addition, basic, cationic dyes are organic dyes that can undergo both oxidative and reductive processes. The reaction that leads to a reduction of a dye molecule by a substrate usually involves an electron or hydrogen atom transfer from the reducing agent to the dye. Free radicals are produced in solution and can undergo subsequent redox reactions with the dye molecule, creating a “bleaching” or degradation of the dye molecule. The bleaching or degradation of the dye molecule renders it inactive, creates problems with efficacy and limits the shelf life of a finished hair color product. The free radicals produced in solution are also a result of the oxidative degradation of fragrance oils or other components in the product. Exposure to UV light can also produce free radicals.
Fragrances are present in numerous end-use products, not only fine perfumes but also as additives in a large range of applications. Personal care products including shampoos are typically fragranced to increase consumer acceptability by masking malodors of base ingredients. Fragrance compositions typically contain between 10 and 100 natural and synthetic fragrance molecules encompassing several organic functional groups including alcohols, phenols, aldehydes and ketones, esters and lactone, terpenes, ethers, oximes, ketals, etc. However, some fragrances, in particular terpenes and aldehydes, are very sensitive to oxidation by molecular oxygen. The consequences are not only a loss of sensorial properties, but also the appearance of off-notes and/or undesirable coloring. The oxidation may also develop possible irritation, allergy and sensitivity and free radicals may react with other components within a formula. Fragrance formulators strive to inhibit oxidation by adding antioxidants, such as BHT or other phenolics.
To prevent fragrance molecules from oxidative degradation, different types of antioxidants are commonly used. They can be classified into basically two classes according to the mechanism of action: (1) the primary or chain-breaking antioxidants and (2) the secondary or preventative antioxidants that do not react with the radicals but act as chelators, deactivate singlet oxygen, absorb ultraviolet radiation, or scavenge oxygen itself.
It is common practice in the cosmetic industry to determine (test) the shelf-life and stability of a formulation by placing the product samples at different environmental conditions for a set period of time. The conditions vary in temperature and light levels and are meant to simulate what will happen to the product during its life cycle. At select time intervals the samples are evaluated for various physical, chemical and performance characteristics to see how they have changed. If the changes are minimal to the company standards, the formula is “passed”. This means when the formula is shipped to the customers, it will be as good as when it was first produced. The underlying assumption in stability testing is that increasing storage temperature speeds up aging reactions that will occur. In the cosmetic industry, the “rule of thumb” is that a sample that is stored at 45° C. for 8 weeks is equivalent to one that is stored at room temperature for one year.
Thus there is a need for a color depositing shampoo made with cationic dyes, non-ionic and/or amphoteric surfactant(s), fragrance, and stabilizer that meets desired stability for such a product. There is also a need for a color depositing shampoo made with cationic dyes, non-ionic and/or amphoteric surfactant(s), fragrance, and stabilizer that is substantially free from anionic surfactants with good foaming properties to efficiently and effectively deliver the dyes to the hair.
It is thus an additional object of the present invention to provide a shampoo based formulation that will efficiently color the hair and effectively clean the hair which meets a certain minimum stability testing and meet a desired shelf life. It is also an object of the invention to provide a shampoo based formulation that will replace ordinary shampoo but also be useful as a hair dye, a composition with improved and more desirable foaming properties which also meets a certain minimum stability testing.
Applicant has invented a composition that overcomes these and other shortcomings. While the invention will be described in connection with certain embodiments, it will be understood that the invention is not limited to those embodiments. To the contrary, the invention includes all alternatives, modifications and equivalents as may be included within the spirit and scope of the present invention.
Applicant has surprisingly discovered that the combination of a specific nonionic surfactant, namely n-methyl alkyl glucamide, with a cationic dye(s) can be used to create an effective and efficient color depositing shampoo with unexpected and desirable foaming properties. Thus, Applicant has discovered that a color depositing shampoo with preferred foaming properties can be made without the need for extra dye and without any anionic surfactant. Applicant has discovered an efficient, effective, lower dye composition, color depositing shampoo with desirable foaming properties comprising a cationic dye and n-methyl alkyl glucamide. Applicant has discovered that use of n-methyl alkyl glucamide with a chain length anywhere from 8 to 20 is possible and included within the scope of the invention, with a C8/C10 carbon chain length most preferred for its lathering properties. The invention allows for efficient dye deposition with commercially acceptable foaming characteristics. The composition of the present invention thus provides unexpected superior results for a shampoo capable of depositing color with desirable foaming.
The present invention relates to the application of cationic dyes to human hair using a one-part shampoo based formulation. The invention is a cleansing and coloring composition that is substantially free, preferably totally and completely free, of anionic surfactants. In one embodiment, said composition according to the invention comprises:
The color depositing shampoo composition according to the invention comprises, by weight (all the weight percents are based on the total weight of the composition):
The properties of the invention are surprising and unique over existing technologies because the composition effectively delivers acceptable and efficient color to hair along with a consumer acceptable foam. The color and long term stability of the composition continues to deliver the same amount of color to the hair. Formulas with materials that are anionic deliver less color to the hair and overtime are seen to deliver less or undesirable results. The foaming characteristics of the invention is closer to the amount of foam delivered from a traditional anionic, sulfate shampoo.
Applicant has also discovered the stability and the shelf life of the composition is improved by using a combination of specific stabilizers, namely, Octadecyl Di-t-butyl-4-hydroxyhydrocinnamate and Tris (Tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) Citrate. This result is particularly applicable when the composition includes a fragrance, specifically either Givaudan UAE17135/00. Accordingly, in one embodiment, said composition according to the invention comprises:
The color depositing shampoo composition according to the invention comprises, by weight (all the weight percents are based on the total weight of the composition):
The present invention also includes the aforementioned compositions with other non-ionic and/or amphoteric surfactants, albeit the color depositing shampoo composition with a different surfactant will most likely exhibit inferior foaming properties than with n-methyl alkyl glucamide.
Applicant has surprisingly found that it is possible to improve the stability and shelf life characteristics in a color depositing shampoo composition including a specific fragrance (Givaudan UAE17135/00) by using two specific stabilizers.
The patent or application file contains at least one drawing executed in color. Copies of this patent or patent application publication with color drawing(s) will be provided by the Office upon request and payment of the necessary fee.
The accompanying drawings, which are incorporated in and constitute a part of this specification, illustrate embodiments of the invention and, together with the general description of the invention given above and the detailed description of an embodiment given below, serve to explain the principles of the present invention. Similar components of the devices are similarly numbered for simplicity.
Reference is being made in detail to presently preferred embodiments of the invention. Selective embodiments are provided by way of explanation of the invention, which is not intended to be limited thereto. In fact, those of ordinary skill in the art may appreciate upon reading the present specification and viewing the present drawings that various modifications and variations can be made.
The present invention is a one-part shampoo based composition for cleansing and coloring hair that is substantially free, preferably totally and completely free, of anionic surfactants. In one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises:
Optionally, other ingredients that may be added to the composition but which are not necessary for the composition, include a rheology modifying polymer, conditioning ingredients, and additional surfactants.
The color depositing shampoo composition according to the invention comprises, by weight (all the weight percents are based on the total weight of the composition):
It being understood that the above described compositions are open to the inclusion of other ingredients that may alter the characteristics of the formula without rendering the system inoperative as a color depositing shampoo.
Use of a stabilizer prevents a shift in the color deposition as the product ages and is exposed to heat. The stabilizer consist of an anti-oxidant and free radical scavenger, such as, for example, tocopherol and sodium citrate.
Other active ingredients may include rheology modifiers, fragrances, chelating agents, opacifiers, conditioning ingredients and other adjuvants. Optionally, suitable amphoteric, nonionic and/or cationic surfactants may be added to the compositions of the invention as desired. Compositions of this invention may contain any other non-anionic ingredients normally used in hair shampoos. These other ingredients may include proteins, fragrances, preservatives, thickeners, conditioners, humectants, opacifiers, and/or pH adjustors.
The compositions of the invention may be made by dispersing the ingredients in water followed by the application of sufficient heat to dissolve the ingredients without causing decomposition. For example, the procedure to create the example composition identified in
The superior color depositing and foaming properties of the shampoo according to the invention is depicted by way of a comparison with existing compositions. Applicant's color depositing shampoo according to the example embodiment in
Example 1 and all four comparative compositions (A, B, C, and D) were evaluated by the same two tests, one to measure the amount of hair color change resulting from use (the amount of dye deposition), and one to measure foaming.
For the dye deposition measurement test, bleached hair swatches supplied by International Hair Importers were used. Each swatch was dyed out with one of the compositions, the dye out procedure involved one lather of the shampoo with rinsing, followed by blow drying of the swatch. The procedure was repeated after a 21 day period on new swatches. The color was visually assessed at day 1 and at day 21 with side by side comparisons of the swatches. The amount of color change was also measured at day 1 and day 21 on the CIELAB scale using a Hunter Lab Ultra Scan XE Colormeter.
The foaming of each shampoo was assessed by a blender test modified version of ASTM D3519-88 Foam in aqueous media (blender test). 1.0 grams of shampoo was mixed with 99.0 grams deionized water until homogeneous. The shampoo solution was put into a Bodum blender and run on “high” for 60 seconds. The height of the foam was measured.
Comparative example A is from Tamareselvy et. al. (U.S. Pat. No. 7,378,479), which discloses the combination of the cationic dyes with anionic surfactants (sodium and ammonium laureth sulfates), in combination with amphoteric surfactants (such as cocamidopropyl betaine) and cationic compatible amino-substituted vinyl polymer as a shampoo for color treatment and color maintenance. The composition for A produced and tested is set forth in
Comparative example B is from Kapsner, et. al. (U.S. Pat. No. 6,500,413 B1) which discloses the combination of one or more cationic components in an anionic system provided the predominant anionic surfactant is an alkyl glucoester. The composition for B produced and tested is set forth in
Comparative example C is from Massoni (U.S. Pat. No. 7,578,857 B1) which discloses use of cationic dyes, amphoteric surfactants, nonionic surfactants and an anionic sarcosinate surfactant for a shampoo coloring formulation. The composition for C produced and tested is set forth in
Comparative example D is from Schmucker-Castner et. al., (U.S. Pat. No. 7,217,752) which discloses a stable, aqueous composition containing a substantially cross linked alkali-swellable acrylate copolymer rheology modifier, a surfactant, an alkaline material and various compounds requiring suspension or stabilization. Additionally, the reference discloses a phase stable cationic dye composition. The composition for D produced and tested is set forth in
Accordingly, none of the other compositions tested provide the same or an equivalent ability to color hair and foam.
Applicant has also surprisingly discovered that a specific combination of anti-oxidants with specific cationic dyes and fragrance can be used to create an effective and efficient fragranced, color depositing shampoo that remains stable with predictable performance within the shelf life of the product. Applicant has discovered that a color depositing shampoo that contains select cationic dyes, anti-oxidants and free radical scavengers are stable for an expected shelf life. The invention is a cleansing and coloring composition that remains stable over a commercially acceptable shelf life as predicted by accelerated stability testing. In another embodiment of the invention, said composition according to the invention comprises:
The color depositing shampoo composition according to the invention comprises, by weight (all the weight percents are based on the total weight of the composition):
It is being understood that the above-described compositions are open to the inclusion of other ingredients that may alter the characteristics of the formula without rendering the system inoperative as a color depositing shampoo. Use of an anti-oxidant as a stabilizer prevents a shift in the color as the product ages and is exposed to heat. Other ingredients may include rheology modifiers, fragrances, chelating agents, opacifiers conditioning ingredients and other adjuvants. Suitable amphoteric, nonionic and/or cationic surfactants may be added to the compositions of the invention as desired. Compositions of this invention may contain any other non-anionic ingredients normally used in hair shampoos. These ingredients may include proteins, preservatives, thickeners, conditioners, humectants and/or pH adjustors.
The compositions of the invention may be made by dispersing the ingredients in water followed by the application of sufficient heat to dissolve the ingredients without causing decomposition.
It should be understood, of course, that the foregoing relates to exemplary embodiments of the invention and that modifications may be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention.
This application is a continuation-in-part of, and claims the benefit of, U.S. application Ser. No. 15/140,064 filed Apr. 27, 2016, expected to issue as U.S. Pat. No. 9,889,080, which claims the benefit of U.S. Provisional Patent Application No. 62/158,296 filed on May 7, 2015, and also claims the benefit of U.S. Provisional Application Ser. No. 62/546,903 filed on Aug. 17, 2017, each which is expressly incorporated herein in its entirety by reference thereto.
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| Number | Date | Country | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Parent | 15140064 | Apr 2016 | US |
| Child | 15894348 | US |
