This invention relates to knitted fabrics, in particular to fabrics that are knitted using metal chains as the “yarns.”
Existing metal fabrics are either created using traditional weaves (versus knitting) or if employing a looping technique are made using single strands of metal such as wire. These fabrics lack flexibility and stretchability and do not exhibit 4 way stretch. Industrially, metal wire may be knitted into a metal fabric wide range of uses including the filter material for example in catalytic converters for cars and many other uses. These fabrics are usually manufactured on circular knitting machines that would be recognized by conventional knitters as sock machines. However, use of wire, i.e. a continuous filament does not provide the desire four way stretch required for wearability and flexibility.
Knitted fabrics of the present invention include fabrics made of metal. In particular, the fabrics of the present invention are made by using metal chains as the “yarns” of the fabrics and knitting them to form a metal fabric. The metal fabric may then be made into garments such as clothing or used for other purposes such as industrial purposes. The fabrics made according to the process here have true four way stretch. Suitable metals include any metal or alloys of metals than can be formed into a chain. The metals may include gold, silver, platinum, copper, brass, palladium, rhodium, titanium, tungsten, tungsten carbide, nickel and stainless steel, although other metals are within the scope of this disclosure. In some examples the metals may be electroplated.
The “yarns” of the knitted fabrics are chains of metals. The chains are formed from links of metal. The chains shapes may be oval, circular, square of other shapes. The links of the chains used as the “yarns” are sized such that when knitted into the fabric the fabric is extremely flexible and exhibits true four way stretch.
Knitted fabrics of the present invention include fabrics made of metal. In particular, the fabrics of the present invention are made by using metal chains as the “yarns” of the fabrics and knitting them to form a metal fabric. The metal fabric may then be made into garments such as clothing or used for other purposes such as industrial purposes. The fabrics made according to the process here have true four way stretch. Suitable metals include any metal or alloys of metals than can be formed into a chain. The metals may include, but are not limited to, gold, silver, platinum, copper, brass, palladium, rhodium, titanium, tungsten, tungsten carbide, nickel and stainless steel. In some examples the metals may be electroplated. As disclosed here, the metal fabrics use only metal links in a chain to create the stretchy, durable, and strong material. However, the metal fabric may be combined with other fabrics or materials to create a garment. Preferably, the metal fabric comprises at least two knitted rows of metal chain. However, the fabric may comprise a single row of knit metal with a subsequent non-metal row. Preferably, the metal fabric comprises at least two knitted rows of metal chain. In one embodiment, the metal fabric is made from a rigid material, such as plastic, coated in metal or metallic paint.
The “yarns” of the knitted fabrics are chains of metals. The chains are formed from links of metal that are linked together. The chain links may be oval, circular, square of other shapes. Preferably, the holes in the links are oval or circular, or other shapes may be used. The links of the chains used as the “yarns” are sized such that when knitted into the fabric the fabric is very flexible and exhibits true four way stretch. Link sizes of the metal chain yarns for making fabrics on conventional knitting machines include links that are up to 11 mm in length and width. The length and width may be the same or it may be different. For example, chains in which the links are longer than they are wide, such as
Preferably, the links may have a length ranging from 0.25 mm to 4 mm and a width ranging from 0.25 mm to 3 mm. For metal knitted fabrics used for clothing, the length of the link preferably ranges from 0.25 mm to 4.0 mm. However, in industrial applications, the link length and width may be greater or smaller (for example for fencing or the like).
The hole size of the links may also vary. The holes may be of any suitable shape and are preferably circular or oval. Suitable hole sizes of the links of the chains that are knitted together on conventional knitting machines include link holes ranging from about 0.25×0.25 mm, 0.25×0.25 mm to about 4.0×4.0 mm. Suitable hole sizes include 0.5×0.5 mm, 0.5×1.0 mm links, 1.0×1.0 mm, 1.5×2.0 mm, 2.0×2.0 mm, 2.0×2.5 mm, 2.4×2.8, 2.5×3.0 s, 3.0×3.0, 3.0×3.5, 3.0×4.0, 3.5×3.5 mm, 3.5×4.0 mm, 4.0×4.0 mm and ranges. Although these are preferable sizes for garments, other applications such as industrial applications may include larger links with larger holes for non-garment applications or smaller links with smaller holes if the machine and its needles are modified to suit the purpose. For garment applications, such as blouses, shirts, dresses, skirts and the like a preferred hole size is 3 mm or less.
Suitable chain types include cable chains,
Chains used for the fabrics need not include a single type of chain or chains having the same link size and it is contemplated that the different types of chains and chain of differing link sizes may be used as the “yarns.” Preferably, the links in the chains are of the same size or close to the same size.
Fabrics made by the method of the current invention are very stretchable and very flexible. The fabrics have true 4-way stretch. 2-way stretch fabrics stretch in one direction, usually from selvedge to selvedge (but can be in other directions depending on the knit). 4-way stretch stretches in both directions, crosswise and lengthwise.
The topology of a knitted fabric is relatively complex. Unlike woven fabrics, where strands usually run straight horizontally and vertically, yarn that has been knitted follows a looped path along its row, as with the darker strand in
The basic knitted fabric (as in
Stitches can be worked from either side, and various patterns are created by mixing regular knit stitches with the “wrong side” stitches, known as purl stitches, either in columns (ribbing), rows (garter, welting), or more complex patterns. Each fabric has different properties: a garter stitch has much more vertical stretch, while ribbing stretches much more horizontally. Because of their front-back symmetry, these two fabrics have little curl, making them popular as edging, even when their stretch properties are not desired.
Different combinations of knit and purl stitches, along with more advanced techniques, generate fabrics of considerably variable consistency, from gauzy to very dense, from highly stretchy to relatively stiff, from flat to tightly curled, and so on.
The most common knitted type of fabric or fabric includes stockinette stitches. The structure of stockinette 20 is shown in
In securing the previous stitch in a wale, the next stitch can pass through the previous link from either below or above. If the former, the stitch is denoted as a knit stitch or a plain stitch; if the latter, as a purl stitch. The two stitches are related in that a knit stitch seen from one side of the fabric appears as a purl stitch on the other side. The two types of stitches have a different visual effect; the knit stitches look like “V”'s stacked vertically, whereas the purl stitches look like a wavy horizontal line across the fabric. Patterns and pictures can be created by knitting two or more different colored materials together using fairisle and other image knitting techniques. Individual stitches, or rows of stitches, may be made taller by drawing more yarn into the new loop (an elongated stitch), which is the basis for uneven knitting: a row of tall stitches may alternate with one or more rows of short stitches for an interesting visual effect. As an illustrative example, short and tall stitches may also alternate within a row, forming a fish-like oval pattern.
There are many hundreds of stitches used by knitters. In the simplest knitted fabrics, all the stitches are knit or purl; this is known as a garter stitch. Alternating rows of knit stitches and purl stitches produce what is known as a stockinette pattern/stocking stitch. Vertical stripes (ribbing) are possible by having alternating wales of knit and purl stitches. For example, a common choice is 2×2 ribbing, in which two wales of knit stitches are followed by two wales of purl stitches, etc. Horizontal striping (welting) is also possible, by alternating rows of knit and purl stitches. Checkerboard patterns (basketweave) are also possible, the smallest of which is known as seed/moss stitch: the stitches alternate between knit and purl in every wale and along every row.
Not every stitch in a row need be knitted; some may be left “as is” and knitted on a subsequent row. This is known as slip-stitch knitting. The slipped stitches are naturally longer than the knitted ones. For example, a stitch slipped for one row before knitting would be roughly twice as tall as its knitted counterparts. This can produce interesting visual effects, although the resulting fabric is more rigid because the slipped stitch “pulls” on its neighbors and is less deformable.
Mosaic knitting is a form of slip-stitch knitting that knits alternate colored rows and uses slip stitches to form patterns; mosaic-knit fabrics tend to be stiffer than patterned fabrics produced by other methods such as Fair-Isle knitting. In some cases, a stitch may be deliberately left unsecured by a new stitch and its wale allowed to disassemble. This is known as drop-stitch knitting, and produces a vertical ladder of see-through holes in the fabric, corresponding to where the wale had been.
The initial and final edges of a knitted fabric are known as the cast-on and bound/cast-off edges. The side edges are known as the selvages; the word derives from “self-edges,” meaning that the stitches do not need to be secured by anything else. Many types of selvages have been developed, with different elastic and ornamental properties.
Vertical and horizontal edges can be introduced within a knitted fabric, e.g., for button holes, by binding/casting off and re-casting on again (horizontal) or by knitting the fabrics on either side of a vertical edge separately as known in the art. Two knitted fabrics can be joined by embroidery-based grafting methods, most commonly the Kitchener stitch. New wales can be begun from any of the edges of a knitted fabric; this is known as picking up stitches and is the basis for entrelac, in which the wales run perpendicular to one another in a checkerboard pattern.
The most basic form of knitting is flat knitting. Flat knitting, in its most basic form, is used to make flat pieces of cloth. It is done with two straight knitting needles and is worked in rows, horizontal lines of stitches. Flat knitting is usually used to knit flat pieces like scarves, blankets, afghans, and the backs and fronts of dresses, shirts, sweaters and pullovers. Circular knitting (also called “knitting in the round”) is a form of knitting that can be used to create a seamless tube. Knitting is worked in rounds (the equivalent of rows in flat knitting). Circular knitting is used in creating pieces that are circular or tube-shaped, such as hats, socks, mittens, and sleeves.
Referring to
An exemplary process for making the metal chain fabrics of the present invention is described in the example below referring to Figures ISA and B. Using a knitting machine, such as the bulky 9 mm gauge Brother KH260 model a metal chain is placed on a spool 1500 which is suspended in the air using a metal spoke over a bin. The chain is fed into the machine 1502 in a standard manner as described by most knitting machine manuals except for metal machines. In metal machines such as the Brother KH260 process skips the top tension unit 1504. For plastic/hobby machines such as the Singer LKI00, the process uses the top tension unit.
When machine knitting, the chain has to have a certain strength in order to not break during this process—this strength can be determined by whether the chain can be ripped by hand fairly easily. After the chain is fed into the machine 1502, it is “cast on” using any traditional knitting technique as discussed above. The machine carriage 1506 is then pushed back and forth to knit the metal chain. Once it is complete, the garment or swatch is taken off the machine, bound off by hand. The garments may be sewn together by hand but can also be connected using linking machinery. The metal chain fabric can also be made on the smaller gauge machines such as the 4.5 mm gauge Brother KH930 but the chain holes must be smaller and thinner as the needles of the machine are smaller.
As set forth above, the metal chain should be strong enough to withstand the machinery without breaking and the hole size of the chain must be sized for the needle of the machine. For example, with the larger machines, the hole size can be from 0.25 mm to 2 mm and in the smaller machines the hole size can be from 0.25 mm to 1.3 mm. For example, a chain having a hole size of 1.5 mm will use a standard needle meant for 9 mm machines (such as the Brother KH260, Singer SK150, Singer LKI00, Toyota 600). For example, a chain having a hole size of 0.5 mm will use a standard needle meant for 4.5 mm machines (such as the Brother KH840, Brother KH930, Singer SK360, Toyota 858). See
An exemplary method for machine knitting the fabric of the present invention includes the steps of providing at least one metal chain of links flexibly linked together, the links having holes, selecting a needle size configured to be equal or greater to the size of the holes, feeding the metal chain into a knitting machine, maintaining an even tension on the chain, weighting the chain, and knitting the metal chain into a knitted pattern to form a fabric.
As the fabric is knitted, it may no longer be necessary to weight the chain because as the chain is metal, the weight of the fabric increases as the size of the fabric increases and hence the fabric itself acts as the weight. Hence, the weight will be removed so as not to distort the fabric once the fabric becomes heavy enough to act as its own weight. During the process, the bottom of the fabric is weighted down by a comb weight and one or more claw weights.
The weights are used to make the metal fabric hang properly and prevent it from lifting up until the weight of the fabric itself no longer makes it necessary. The lighter the fabric, the longer the weights may have to be utilized in the process to ensure the fabric hangs properly.
A most preferred method of machine knitting the metal chain material includes providing at least one metal chain of links flexibly linked together, selecting a stitch size on a knitting machine, feeding the metal chain into the knitting machine, maintaining an even tension on the chain, weighting the lower edge of the knitted fabric, and knitting the metal chain into a knitted pattern to form a fabric.
Knit chain metal lace may also be made with the lace carriage (a separate carriage that comes with some machines) or by hand manipulation of stitches (like hand manipulated yam lace). Further, knitting of images using metal chain can be made through fair isle techniques and other image knitting techniques. These images may be knit of “yams” made of chain in combination with conventional yams. Or the image may be knit of just metal chain in multiple colors of chain to create a pattern effect (such as that which is traditionally associated with holiday sweaters). Lastly, an image may also be produced by knitting the chain using the “lace knitting technique” which leaves holes in the knitting that create an image (like a lace pattern on conventional fabric).
Although the process of knitting the metal chain fabric is disclosed as utilizing conventional knitting machines, other machines may become available to knit the metal chains into a knitted fabric.
Throughout this specification, unless the context requires otherwise, the words “comprise” and “include” and variations such as “comprising” and “including” will be understood to imply the inclusion of an item or group of items, but not the exclusion of any other item or group items. While various examples of the invention have been described, it will be apparent to those of ordinary skill in the art that many more examples and implementations are possible within the scope of the invention. For example, while this description has focused on knitted fabrics made using metal links or chain as a “yam” to create a stretchy and durable knit metal material.
Furthermore, industrial knitting machines as well as home or hobby knitting machines may be used to knit the fabric. While exemplary applications described herein include fashion and textile industries, other applications include, but are not limited to, bullet-proof vests and other military apparel/textiles, medical apparel (such as x-ray vests), and other applications where a metal with true four-way stretch could greatly enhance user experience, safety and comfort. Although various indications have been given as to the scope of this invention, the invention is not limited to any one of these but may reside in two or more of these combined together. Accordingly, the invention is not to be restricted except in light of the attached claims and their equivalents.
While various examples of the invention have been described, it will be apparent to those of ordinary skill in the art that many more examples and implementations are possible within the scope of the invention. Furthermore, although various indications have been given as to the scope of this invention, the invention is not limited to any one of these but may reside in two or more of these combined together.
This application is a non-provisional patent application that claims the benefit of and the priority from U.S. Provisional Patent Application No. 62/136,323, filed Mar. 20, 2015, and U.S. patent application Ser. No. 15/073,183, filed Mar. 17, 2016, both titled STRETCH KNIT METAL CHAIN FABRICS.
Number | Date | Country | |
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Parent | 15073183 | Mar 2016 | US |
Child | 18218032 | US | |
Parent | 17394561 | Aug 2021 | US |
Child | 15073183 | US | |
Parent | 15073183 | Mar 2016 | US |
Child | 17394561 | US |