Patent Application
20250066959
This disclosure relates to a stretchable woven fabric and a fiber product.
Conventionally, stretchable woven fabrics are often used for shirts/jackets or bottoms for everyday wear or sports. Regarding methods for obtaining stretching, a woven fabric using elastic fibers such as polyurethane has been used, and to achieve both weight reduction and stretching, a stretchable woven fabric utilizing the crimping of bicomponent fibers such as side-by-side shape original yarn has been used.
A method for obtaining an elastic fabric by attaching an elastomer resin compound to a surface of a fabric using crimped yarn (Japanese Patent Laid-open Publication No. 2015-17341) has been proposed.
Meanwhile, a method for producing a fabric excellent in elasticity using spun yarn and bicomponent crimped yarn (Japanese Patent Laid-open Publication No. 2019-183299) has been proposed.
Furthermore, Japanese Patent Laid-open Publication No. 2007-197864 discloses a suede-like woven or knitted fabric having stretchability using a polyester combined filament yarn including two or more kinds of polyester multifilaments including side-by-side shape multifilaments.
In recent years, there has been demand for lightweight and stretchability in multiple directions in fabric for greater wearing comfort, and a natural fabric surface texture giving a natural fiber tone. However, in the prior art, when a large amount of elastic fibers is used to obtain stretchability, the fabric becomes heavy, and when the weight is reduced using crimped yarn, a luster characteristic of synthetic fibers is generated, such that a natural fabric surface texture giving a natural fiber tone cannot be obtained, which is not completely satisfactory.
That is, in the method described in Japanese Patent Laid-open Publication No. 2015-17341, the stretchability in multiple directions cannot be sufficiently obtained with crimped yarn, and the original texture of the original yarn is impaired due to elastomer resin processing, leading to an increase in production cost in fabric processing. In addition, in the method described in Japanese Patent Laid-open Publication No. 2019-183299, by using spun yarn having low elasticity, a suitable woven fabric elongation rate cannot be obtained and sufficient performance cannot be obtained.
Furthermore, a woven or knitted fabric specifically disclosed in Japanese Patent Laid-open Publication No. 2007-197864 is a heavy suede-like woven or knitted fabric, and a lightweight property and stretchability were not compatible with each other.
Even in the prior art, a woven fabric having all of a lightweight property, stretchability, and a fabric surface texture giving a natural fiber tone has not been obtained.
This disclosure is intended to solve the problems that cannot be achieved by these prior arts, and it could therefore be helpful to provide a novel stretchable woven fabric that has both wearing comfort, due to lightweight and multidirectional stretchability, and a natural fiber tone.
We have found that when using stretchable fibers in which different two-component polymers are formed into a side-by-side shape or an eccentric core-sheath shape, in parts of warp and weft, and forming a woven fabric including composite textured yarn obtained by combining the stretchable fibers and a multifilament dissimilar to the stretchable fibers, in at least one of the warp and the weft, all a lightweight property, excellent stretchability, and a fabric surface texture giving a natural fiber tone are compatible, and have completed this disclosure.
We thus provide:
(1) A stretchable woven fabric including: stretchable fibers in which different two-component polymers are formed into a side-by-side shape or an eccentric core-sheath shape, in both a warp and a weft; and composite textured yarn obtained by combining the stretchable fibers and a multifilament fiber dissimilar to the stretchable fibers, in either one or both of the warp and the weft, in which the different two-component polymers are a combination selected from a combination of dissimilar polymers having different structures and a combination of polymers having different intrinsic viscosities, the polymers are a polyester-based polymer selected from polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate, and the stretchable woven fabric has a basis weight of 100 g/m2 to 200 g/m2.
(2) The stretchable woven fabric according to (1), in which a single yarn fineness of the stretchable fibers is 0.5 to 3.0 dtex, and a total fineness of the composite textured yarn is 100 to 300 dtex.
(3) The stretchable woven fabric according to (1) or (2), in which the multifilament fiber is a multifilament composed of a single component.
(4) The stretchable woven fabric according to any one of (1) to (3), in which the multifilament fiber has a cross-sectional shape selected from a round cross section and a multilobal cross section.
(5) The stretchable woven fabric according to any one of (1) to (4), in which the multifilament fiber is a cationic dyeable polyester multifilament.
(6) The stretchable woven fabric according to any one of (1) to (5), in which the multifilament fiber contains 0.5 to 3.0 mass % of a delustering agent.
(7) The stretchable woven fabric according to any one of (1) to (6), in which the stretchable woven fabric contains polyurethane elastic yarn at a blending ratio of 0 to 5 mass %.
(8) The stretchable woven fabric according to any one of (1) to (7), in which a proportion of the stretchable fibers in the composite textured yarn is 20 to 70 mass %.
(9) The stretchable woven fabric according to any one of (1) to (8), in which either one or both of the stretchable fibers and the multifilament fiber in the composite textured yarn have thick and thin spots in a fiber axis direction.
(10) The stretchable woven fabric according to any one of (1) to (9), in which one of the warp and the weft includes the composite textured yarn, and the other one of the weft and the warp includes false twisted yarn composed of the stretchable fibers.
(11) The stretchable woven fabric according to any one of (1) to (10), in which the stretchable woven fabric has an elongation rate of 12% or higher in both a warp direction and a weft direction.
(12) A fiber product selected from an article of clothing and a sleeping bag, which is obtained by using the stretchable woven fabric according to any one of (1) to (11).
We provide a stretchable woven fabric that is excellent in wearing comfort by having lightweight and excellent stretch in multiple directions, and can achieve a fabric surface texture giving a natural fiber tone.
Hereinafter, our fabric will be described in more detail.
This disclosure relates to a stretch woven fabric that includes stretchable fibers in both a warp and a weft and composite textured yarn obtained by combining the stretchable fibers and a multifilament different from the stretchable fibers in either one or both of the warp and the weft, and has a basis weight of 100 to 200 g/m2.
Hereinafter, our fiber product will be described.
The stretchable fiber is a fiber in which different two-component polymers are intentionally arranged in a fiber length direction, and is a fiber having a form of a side-by-side shape in which two components are arranged to be bonded or a form in which an eccentric core-sheath structure is formed. By adopting such a form, distortion is generated in the fiber due to a difference in shrinkage between the two components by a heat treatment at the time of processing, and a form of three-dimensional coil crimp due to a difference in elastic recovery rates and thermal shrinkage characteristics is obtained. Accordingly, mechanical stretchability is imparted to the fiber. Such a fiber is referred to as a stretchable fiber.
Examples of the different two-component polymers used for the stretchable fiber include a combination of polymers that can cause a difference in shrinkage by a heat treatment during processing, a combination of dissimilar polymers having different structures, and a combination of polymers having different intrinsic viscosities, and the different two-component polymers are selected from these combinations. From the viewpoint of a heat setting property of a fiber, a polyester-based polymer is preferable. Specific examples thereof include polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate, and the polyester-based polymer is selected therefrom. In addition, in these polymers, it is also possible to contain other copolymerization components to the extent that the desired effect can be obtained. Therefore, such other components are also set within the range of the above polymer. It is also possible to combine polymers having different intrinsic viscosities even for the same kind of polymers. Examples thereof include a combination of polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate and a combination of polyethylene terephthalate having different intrinsic viscosities. It is preferable to combine polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate from the viewpoint of crimp development due to a difference in shrinkage.
It is preferable that the polymer contain a delustering agent. Specific examples of the delustering agent include titanium dioxide. Accordingly, in a stretchable woven fabric to be obtained, a glare characteristic of synthetic fibers can be suppressed, and an appearance having a natural fiber tone can be imparted.
A content of the delustering agent in the polymer is preferably 0.5 to 3.0 mass % and more preferably 1.0 to 2.5 mass %. In addition, it is desirable that titanium oxide used for delustering be maintained in a sufficient dispersed state, and be maintained in a favorable dispersed state even in a polymer obtained by polymerization. In general, in the dispersed state of the titanium oxide in the polymer, an average particle diameter is preferably 0.2 to 0.6 μm, more preferably 0.4 μm or less.
The delustering agent is more preferably included in both of the two-component polymers, but even when included in only one polymer, an effect can be obtained.
In addition, fine particles such as silica as a slipping agent and other materials such as a coloring pigment can be added to the stretchable fiber as necessary, as long as the desired effect is not impaired.
Examples of an arrangement of the two-component polymers include an eccentric core-sheath structure and the like in addition to a side-by-side shape in which two components are bonded in parallel, and a structure exhibiting crimps due to a difference in elastic recovery rates and thermal shrinkage characteristics thereof is preferable.
In addition, a composite ratio of the two-component polymers constituting the stretchable fibers is preferably in a range of 8:2 to 2:8 in terms of a mass ratio. The composite ratio is more preferably 4:6 to 6:4. Within this range, not only suitable crimps due to a difference in shrinkage can be obtained, but also stable production can be performed.
In addition, the single yarn fineness of the stretchable fiber is preferably 0.5 dtex to 3.0 dtex, and more preferably 1.0 dtex to 2.0 dtex. When the single yarn fineness is 0.5 dtex or more, not only excellent stretchability can be obtained and suitable wearing comfort can be obtained, but also production stability in a spinning step is excellent. When the single yarn fineness is 3.0 dtex or less, not only excellent stretchability can be obtained, the rigidity of the fiber is prevented from being too high, the texture of the fabric is not stiff, and suitable wearing comfort can be obtained, but also a glare characteristic of synthetic fibers due to reflected light on a fiber surface is sufficiently suppressed, and an excellent natural fiber tone can be obtained.
The composite textured yarn defined is not textured yarn made of a single fiber bundle, but is obtained by combining different fiber bundles of the stretchable fibers and a multifilament fiber dissimilar to the stretchable fibers. The composite textured yarn is obtained by forming doubled false twisted yarn which is doubled by subjecting to a doubling false twist or an air entanglement or the like after false twist, a Taslan textured yarn obtained by Taslan processing, or a combined twisted yarn obtained by combining and twisting. The composite textured yarn which is formed of core yarn and sheath yarn, provides a difference in yarn length for each yarn, and constitutes a sheath yarn loop, like Taslan processing is suitable for reproducing a fluff feeling like a cotton material among natural fibers, and is suitable for reproducing a melange tone like a wool material among natural fibers by imparting thick and thin spots in a fiber axis direction to one or both fiber bundles by performing a thick and thin processing in a processing process. When one of the composite textured yarn is a stretchable fiber, a textured yarn having a natural fiber tone can be obtained while maintaining suitable stretchability.
A mass ratio of the stretchable fibers constituting the composite textured yarn is preferably 20 to 70 mass %. More preferably, the mass ratio is 30 to 50 mass %. Within this range, both stretchability and a natural fiber tone can be achieved.
The multifilament fiber dissimilar to the stretchable fiber used in the composite textured yarn is not particularly limited, and is preferably a multifilament composed of a single component.
The multifilament composed of a single component may be one kind of component or a mixture composed of two or more kinds of components as a material, but the components constituting the entire fiber refer to multifilaments composed of the same material.
Preferred examples of the multifilament fiber include polyester-based multifilaments and polyamide-based multifilaments. Polyethylene terephthalate and a polyethylene terephthalate copolymer are preferable as the polyester constituting the polyester-based multifilament, and cationic dyeable polyethylene terephthalate is preferable as the polyethylene terephthalate copolymer.
Among these, to enhance the same dyeability, it is preferable to use a multifilament fiber composed of polymers having the same or a common basic skeleton as at least one of polymers constituting the stretchable fibers. Therefore, since the stretchable fibers are composed of a polyester-based polymer, the polyester-based multifilaments are preferable. Also, when polyethylene terephthalate is contained as a polymer constituting the stretchable fibers, it is preferable to use polyethylene terephthalate-based multifilaments or polyethylene terephthalate-copolymer-based multifilaments having similar dyeability.
On the other hand, by using a polymer having a difference in dyeing for the multifilaments, it is also possible to express a more excellent melange tone of a natural fiber. For example, when a polyester-based polymer is used for the stretchable fibers, a difference in dyeing is generated by using a polyamide-based multifilament or the like, and it is also possible to express a melange tone of a natural fiber. Furthermore, when a disperse dye-dyeable polyester such as disperse dye-dyeable polyethylene terephthalate is used for the stretchable fiber, it is also preferable to use a cationic dyeable polyester multifilament such as a cationic dyeable polyethylene terephthalate-based multifilament as the multifilament. As a result, it is possible to express the melange tone of a natural fiber such as wool materials.
The material constituting the multifilament fiber preferably contains a delustering agent. Specific examples of the delustering agent include titanium dioxide. Accordingly, in a stretchable woven fabric to be obtained, a glare characteristic of synthetic fibers can be suppressed, and an appearance having a natural fiber tone can be imparted.
A content of the delustering agent is preferably 0.5 to 3.0 mass %, and more preferably 1.0 to 2.5 mass % in the multifilament fiber. In addition, it is desirable that titanium oxide used for delustering be maintained in a sufficient dispersed state, and be maintained in a favorable dispersed state even in a polymer obtained by polymerization. In general, in the dispersed state of the titanium oxide in the polymer, an average particle diameter is preferably 0.2 to 0.6 μm, more preferably 0.4 μm or less.
In addition, fine particles such as silica as a slipping agent and other materials such as a coloring pigment can be added to the multifilament fiber as necessary, as long as the desired effect is not impaired.
A cross-sectional shape perpendicular to a fiber axis of the multifilament fiber (hereinafter, referred to as a cross-sectional shape) is not particularly selected, and a flat cross section, a polygonal cross section having a triangular or star shape, a multilobal cross section, or a modified cross section such as a cross section obtained by combining these cross sections can be used in addition to a round cross section. The modified cross section is preferable in that a glare characteristic of synthetic fibers can be suppressed. Those having a cross-sectional shape selected from a round cross section and a flat multilobal cross section are particularly preferable, and these are used depending on applications.
In addition, by forming multifilament fibers having thick and thin spots in a fiber axis direction, a difference is imparted to a fiber crystal structure in the fiber axis direction, and it is possible to obtain a woven fabric having a melange tone of a natural fiber, particularly a melange tone like a wool material due to a difference in dyeability caused by the difference in the fiber crystal structure.
Furthermore, the multifilament fiber may be textured yarn subjected to mechanical stretch processing such as false twisting.
This makes it possible to obtain composite textured yarn that imparts stretchability to a woven fabric without impairing the elasticity of the stretchable fibers.
To obtain a natural fiber tone, a multilobal cross section is particularly preferably a multilobal cross section having 6 to 8 lobes. The multilobal cross section is preferably a flat multilobal cross section. Therefore, it is preferable in that glare can be easily suppressed and an excellent natural fiber tone can be expressed even when a dark color woven fabric having an L value of 25 or less in which a glare characteristic of synthetic fibers is easily noticeable is formed. Furthermore, by forming a multilobal cross section of 6 to 8 lobes (which may be a flat multilobal cross section) and further imparting thick and thin spots in the fiber axis direction, the effect is further enhanced, and a stretchable woven fabric having a dark color in which glare is further suppressed and having a melange natural fiber tone like a wool material can be obtained.
When the stretchable fibers and the multifilament fiber are combined to form composite textured yarn, examples of an aspect of doubled fiber include doubled false twisted yarn which is doubled by subjecting to a doubling false twist or an air entanglement or the like after false twist, a Taslan textured yarn obtained by Taslan processing, or combined twisted yarn obtained by combining and twisting, and combined filament entangled yarn. It is also possible to impart thick and thin spots in the fiber axis direction by thick-and-thin processing to either one or both of the fiber bundles in the processing process.
In addition, the composite textured yarn can be twisted yarn, and therefore the nuance of the natural fiber tone can be controlled.
For the stretch woven fabric to be a stretchable woven fabric having fluff feeling like a cotton material and being excellent in a natural fiber tone, composite textured yarn (hereinafter, referred to as composite textured yarn A) satisfying the following configurations (a1) to (a3) is preferably used.
In addition, composite textured yarn (hereinafter, referred to as composite textured yarn B) satisfying the following configurations (b1) to (b3) is preferably used from the viewpoint that a particularly excellent texture can be imparted to the stretch woven fabric as a melange tone of natural fibers like a wool material, and it is more preferable to further satisfy the configuration (b4) in addition to the above configurations.
In addition, the total fineness of the composite textured yarn is preferably in a range of 100 to 300 dtex. It is preferable to use fibers satisfying the range to achieve all physical properties such as tear strength required for clothing, surface feeling of a natural fiber tone, and a lightweight property. When the total fineness is 100 dtex or more, further excellent physical properties of a fabric and firmness of a fabric are obtained, and when the total fineness is 300 dtex or less, the mass of a fabric is reduced, and further excellent wearing comfort can be obtained.
Furthermore, the maximum thermal shrinkage stress of the composite textured yarn is preferably 15 cN or more, and more preferably 20 cN or more. When having high shrinkage stress even after the composite texturing, a fabric shrinks without being affected by a tension during a processing step at the time of dyeing processing, and suitable stretchability can be obtained.
It is also possible to use a polyurethane elastic yarn as a complement of the stretchability, and to maintain the lightweight property of a woven fabric, a use ratio thereof is preferably 0 to 5 mass % with respect to the mass of the stretchable woven fabric. The polyurethane elastic yarn is subjected to covering processing, and can be used in the form of covering yarn. In the covering yarn, an aspect is preferable in which urethane elastic yarn is used as a core, and an inelastic multifilament or the stretchable fiber is used as covering yarn.
The stretch woven fabric includes the stretchable fibers in at least parts of both the warp and the weft, and the composite textured yarn in either one or both of the warp and the weft. Specifically, the composite textured yarn may be included in only the warp or only the weft, a stretchable fiber having a different aspect from the composite textured yarn (hereinafter referred to as “stretch woven fabric 1”) may be included in the other one of the weft and the warp, or the composite textured yarn (hereinafter referred to as “stretch woven fabric 2”) may be included in both the warp and the weft.
The “a stretchable fiber having a different aspect from the composite textured yarn in the other one of the weft or the warp” used in the stretch woven fabric 1 is not particularly limited as long as it is the above-described stretchable fiber, and from the viewpoint of stretchability and an elastic recovery rate, crimped yarn of a stretchable fiber is preferable in that a lightweight property and a texture giving a natural fiber tone are obtained.
The total fineness of the stretchable fibers is preferably 100 to 300 dtex, and more preferably 100 to 250 dtex.
The stretchable woven fabric 2 is a preferable aspect in that the stretchable woven fabric 2 is particularly excellent in texture of natural fibers like a cotton material or a wool material.
Furthermore, it is more preferable that the composite textured yarn B is included in both the warp and the weft in that the composite textured yarn B is further excellent in the texture giving a melange tone of a natural fiber like a wool material. Furthermore, in the composite textured yarn used in the warp and the weft, twistless yarn is used as one of the warp and the weft, and twisted yarn is used as the other one of the weft and the warp, or different numbers of twists are set for the warp and the weft, whereby the nuance of the melange tone can be changed.
In addition, it is also possible to use a fiber other than the composite textured yarn and the stretchable fiber (hereinafter referred to as “combined fiber”) in combination in the warp or the weft.
The combined fiber is not limited as long as the stretchable woven fabric can be obtained, and examples thereof include crimped yarn and covering yarn having the urethane elastic yarn as a core and the inelastic multifilament as a covering yarn from the viewpoint of stretchability. A content thereof when the urethane elastic yarn is used is as described above.
The crimped yarn is preferably false twisted yarn.
Also, examples of a material constituting the crimped yarn include disperse dye-dyeable polyesters such as polyethylene terephthalate, and cation dye-dyeable polyesters such as cation dyeable polyethylene terephthalate copolymers.
The total fineness of the combined fibers is preferably 100 to 300 dtex, and more preferably 100 to 250 dtex.
Polyethylene terephthalate false twisted yarn is particularly preferable from the viewpoint of stretchability. In addition, it is more preferable to use a cation dye-dyeable polyester false twisted yarn to obtain a melange tone is more preferable from the viewpoint that a texture giving a natural fiber tone can be obtained by a difference in dyeing.
Such combined fibers are preferably used in a mode in which, for example, 1 to 4 composite textured yarn or stretchable fibers and 1 to 4 combined fibers are alternately arranged in the same number in the warp or the weft, or n+1 to 5n composite textured yarn or stretchable fibers are alternately arranged with respect to 1 to 4 (n) combined fibers.
When the combined fibers are used, a use ratio is preferably 80 mass % or less, and more preferably 50 mass % or less each independently in the warp or the weft from the viewpoint of obtaining stretchability and a texture giving a natural fiber tone. In the above description, the expression “each independently” means that it may be contained only in the warp, only in the weft, or in both thereof, and the contents thereof may be different.
Similarly, when composite textured yarn is contained in the warp or the weft, the content of the composite textured yarn is preferably 20 mass % or more, more preferably 50 mass % or more, and most preferably 100 mass %, from the viewpoint of obtaining stretchability and a texture giving a natural fiber tone, each independently in the warp or the weft.
In addition, when one of the warp and the weft contains a stretchable fiber different from the composite textured yarn, a proportion of the stretchable fiber in the warp or the weft is preferably 20 mass % or more, more preferably 50 mass % or more, and most preferably 100 mass % from the viewpoint of stretchability.
Next, a method for producing the woven fabric will be described in detail.
As a method for obtaining the stretchable fiber, drawn yarn can be obtained in a manner that after different components are separately melted, the melted components are discharged into a side-by-side shape or an eccentric core-sheath shape, and then discharged products are cooled, drawn, and wound up.
As the multifilament fiber dissimilar to the stretchable fiber, for example, a polyester-based multifilament such as polyethylene terephthalate will be described as an example. That is, a polyester undrawn yarn can be obtained by spinning a polyester by an ordinary method. Drawn yarn can be obtained by drawing the undrawn yarn, and a drawing ratio and temperature conditions may be appropriately adjusted depending on making the fiber cross section uniform in an axis direction or making the fiber have thick and thin spots. Similarly, other multifilament fibers may be produced by appropriately arranging the yarn according to a raw material.
As a multifilament fiber dissimilar to the stretchable fibers used for the composite textured yarn, for example, polyethylene terephthalate is spun by an ordinary method to obtain polyester undrawn yarn. Drawn yarn can be obtained by drawing the undrawn yarn, and a drawing ratio and temperature conditions may be appropriately adjusted depending on making the fiber cross section uniform in an axis direction or making the fiber have thick and thin spots.
Then, composite processing is performed using both the obtained fibers to obtain composite textured yarn.
Examples of the composite processing method include combining yarn, Taslan processing, doubling, and filament combining. Furthermore, it is also possible to combine one kind or two or more kinds of drawing, false twisting, thick and thin processing, and the like with these.
For example, in forming composite textured yarn having a sheath yarn loop by Taslan processing as composite textured yarn that obtains a fluff feeling like a cotton material, the composite textured yarn can be produced as follows. That is, a method in which when the stretchable fiber is A yarn and the multifilament fiber dissimilar to the stretchable fiber is B yarn, the B yarn is excessively fed with respect to the A yarn, and the A yarn and the B yarn are entangled with each other by a filament-combining nozzle to obtain dissimilar mixed fiber textured yarn is used. When the feeding amount of the B yarn is 3% to 8% larger than that of the A yarn, loops of the B yarn are formed in the combined filament textured yarn, and a form imitating fluff of natural fibers can be obtained. The filament-combining nozzle can be selected from a rectifying nozzle, a turbulent flow nozzle, and the like, and it is preferable to use a turbulent flow nozzle by which loops are easy formed.
In addition, as composite textured yarn capable of obtaining a melange feeling like a wool material, dissimilar filaments-combined textured yarn capable of giving a melange tone like a wool material can be obtained in a manner that a drawn yarn having thick and thin spots in the fiber axis direction of the A yarn and/or the B yarn is false-twisted and then subjected to air filament-combining.
The stretchable fibers and composite textured yarn thus obtained are used as a part of the warp and/or weft to obtain a woven fabric. An air jet loom (AJL) is preferable as a machine for producing the woven fabric, and a rapier loom is more preferable. A high-speed loom can be selected from a water jet loom (WJL) and an AJL, and an AJL is preferable for production because a WJL in which weft is driven with a stream of water increases a tension on the weft, and the stretch and bulging of a fabric may be impaired. Considering the influence of the weft conveyance, it is further preferable to carry out the production with a rapier loom.
The woven fabric structure is not particularly specified, and twill or satin having few constraint points of a structure is preferable as long as stretchability is prioritized.
By subjecting the woven fabric to a treatment combining a post-processing step selected from refining, relaxation, heat setting, dyeing treatment, drying, and the like, the stretchability of the fabric by the stretchable fibers and the composite textured yarn is exhibited. In the post-processing step, since the processing tension is applied in the direction of the woven fabric warp, it is preferable to adopt a method such as fabric storing with fabric shaking off between steps, net drying, or fabric heat setting and overfeeding, to suppress a tension in processing.
The woven fabric may be appropriately provided with various functional processing such as water absorption processing, water repellent processing, flame retardant processing, ultraviolet shielding processing, antibacterial deodorizing processing, and antistatic processing.
Furthermore, from the viewpoint of a lightweight property, the processed fabric basis weight is 100 to 200 g/m2, and preferably 100 to 170 g/m2.
To obtain the basis weight, the total fineness and a weave density of weaving yarn used for the warps and wefts may be appropriately adjusted, and may be further adjusted according to a weave structure. The total fineness and the weave density of the weaving yarn can be adjusted to have the above-described basis weight from the range of 1650 to 2800 as the cover factor represented by the formula described later.
Further, in terms of the weave structure, for example, in a plain woven fabric or the like, a cover factor after processing the fabric is preferably 1800 to 2200. In the twill structure, the satin structure, and the like, the cover factor is preferably 2000 or more because the cover factor is relatively increased to obtain a woven fabric of resilient fabric equivalent to the plain structure.
The stretch woven fabric thus obtained is excellent in multidirectional stretchability, and in a preferred example, it is possible to achieve an elongation rate of 12% or higher in both directions of the warp and the weft, and in a more preferred embodiment, it is also possible to achieve an elongation rate of 15% or higher in both directions of the warp and the weft.
The stretch woven fabric thus obtained has both of wearing comfort due to lightweight and multidirectional stretchability, and a natural fiber tone.
The stretch woven fabric can be suitably used for various applications such as clothing and sleeping bags since it has both of wearing comfort due to lightweight and multidirectional stretchability and a natural fiber tone.
Hereinafter, our fabric and fiber product will be described specifically with reference to examples, but is not limited to these examples. An evaluation of each measured value in Examples was performed by the following method.
The fabric mass g per m2 was determined in accordance with JIS L 1096:2020 A method.
In accordance with JIS L 1096:2020 8.16.1 B method (constant load method for woven fabric). A length between marks after holding for 1 minute at a load of 14.7 N was measured to determine an elongation rate.
Using a thermal shrinkage stress measuring apparatus TYPE KE-2S, an initial load of 1/11.1 g/dtex is applied to a sample conditioned for 24 hours under an environment of 20° C.×65% RH, and measurement is performed according to a predetermined operation procedure. The same measurement was performed five times to determine an average maximum thermal shrinkage stress.
The fineness was determined in accordance with JIS L 1013:2010 8.3.1 A method.
The fineness is determined in accordance with JIS L 1013:2010 8.3.1 B method (simple method). As a sample, a thread to be measured is extracted from composite textured yarn or a woven fabric, and measured. When a sample length is insufficient, a total length of the plurality of samples is set to a predetermined length. When the sample is small and insufficient, it is set to measure the maximum possible length. The initial load is the same as defined in the A method.
When the thread was used as a sample, or when the decomposed yarn from the woven fabric was used as a sample, the fineness was determined by each method and divided by the number of filaments constituting the thread.
The cover factor was determined by the following formula.
Difference in Yarn Length between Stretchable Fiber and Multifilament Fiber
A load of 0.08826 cN/dtex is applied to the combined filament yarn, and the combined filament yarn is fixed to a twisting machine at a length of 10 cm. In this instance, when the yarn is twisted, the twisting machine is turned to untwist the yarn.
The load is removed, and the stretchable fibers and the multifilament fibers are carefully separated while the yarn is fixed to the twisting machine. When an auxiliary tool such as a needle or tweezers is used, the separation is readily performed, and therefore, the auxiliary tool is used as much as possible.
The load of 0.08826 cN/dtex is applied again. Among the stretchable fibers and the multifilament fibers, the shorter fiber (referred to as fiber A) is in a state of being tensioned, and the other fiber (referred to as fiber B) is longer in yarn length than the fiber A, and thus is in a state of being slackened without being tensioned. The yarn length in this state is measured. This value is defined as YL(A). Next, the fiber A is cut with scissors. This time, a tension is applied to the fiber B component and the fiber B component is in a stated of being stretched. The yarn length in this state is measured. This value is defined as YL(B).
The difference in yarn length is calculated according to the following formula.
In the test, a total of five test sample yarn are randomly collected from one sample yarn, and a total of five measurements are performed. The five measured values are averaged (rounded off to the first decimal place) to obtain a difference in yarn length.
Composite textured yarn of 90 cm is prepared, the mass is measured, and the mass of the entire fiber is confirmed. A fiber cross section was observed, a fiber bundle in which a polymer interface was observed and a fiber bundle in which a polymer interface was not observed were carefully separated with tweezers or the like, the mass of the fiber bundle in which a polymer interface was observed was measured, and a proportion was obtained from the mass of the fiber bundle before separation. As a sample, a thread to be measured is taken out from a woven fabric and used as a sample. When the sample length is shorter than 90 cm, a plurality of samples are collected until the total length is 90 cm.
The pants sewn using the stretchable woven fabrics obtained in Examples and Comparative Examples were worn by 5 subjects, and the ease of raising the foot when the subjects performed bending and stretching motions and pulled up the bottom of one foot perpendicularly to the ground by 70 cm was evaluated according to the following criteria. Also, the lightweight feeling at the time of wearing was also evaluated according to the following criteria. The evaluation points of each subject were averaged. This wearing evaluation was performed by selecting pants having a size most suitable for the body shape of the subject from the product size line-up created on the basis of JIS L 4004:2001 and allowing the subject to wear the pants.
5. There is no tight feel even when the knee is bent, and the knee can be bent comfortably.
3. There is tight feel when the knee is bent, but the knee can be bent.
1. There is tight feel when bending the knee, it is tight, and it is difficult to bend the knee.
5. The foot rises comfortably without resistance.
3. There is a slight resistance, but the foot rises.
1. There is resistance, and it is difficult to raise the foot.
5. There is an exceptional lightweight feeling with respect to the weight feeling expected from the appearance of the pants.
3. There is a feeling of wearing pants, but there is a lightweight feeling.
1. No lightweight feeling is felt.
A compression sensor (Contact pressure measuring instrument AMI 3037-10-II (used pressure receiving sensor: φ20 mm) manufactured by AMI Techno Co., Ltd.) was attached to the knee, the knee was held in a bent state for 1 minute until the hip touched the heel, and the pressure (kPa) applied to the knee in the bent state was measured at a rate of once every 5 seconds, and calculated as an average (kPa) per minute. The results for one subject randomly selected from subjects wearing pants will be described as a representative example. There was no significant difference in the tendency of the result of the wearing pressure in any subject.
The stretchable woven fabrics obtained in Examples and Comparative Examples were evaluated by 10 skilled evaluators.
The obtained stretchable woven fabric was evaluated as to which of a cotton tone, a wool tone, other natural fiber tone, and synthetic fiber tone the obtained stretchable woven fabric corresponded to. When there was a different evaluation, the most frequent evaluation was adopted.
The obtained stretchable woven fabric was evaluated according to the following criteria.
5. Luster feeling is not felt.
4. Slight luster feeling is felt.
3. Somewhat luster feeling is felt.
2. Luster feeling characteristic of synthetic fibers is felt.
1. Luster feeling characteristic of synthetic fibers is felt strongly.
(2) L value
The dyed finished woven fabric was cut into two pieces having a size of 10 cm×10 cm, and the two pieces were stacked to measure an L value using a color difference meter (CR-300) manufactured by KONICA MINOLTA, INC.
First, side-by-side shape original yarn (titanium dioxide content: PET 1.4 mass % and PBT 1.5 mass %) 87 dtex/48 filaments composed of polyethylene terephthalate (PET) and polybutylene terephthalate (PBT) were drawn as a core yarn, and these were heat-treated at a heater temperature of 168° C. to obtain core yarn 55 dtex of composite textured yarn. Taslan textured yarn obtained by feeding polyethylene terephthalate semi-dull 56 dtex/48 filaments (titanium dioxide content: 1.6 mass %, round cross section) at a rate of 5.2% higher than the core yarn feed rate as sheath yarn, and performing air entanglement using a turbulence processing nozzle was wound as the composite textured yarn.
The obtained composite textured yarn (composite textured yarn 1) had 122 dtex/96 filaments, a difference in yarn length of 4.8%, and the maximum thermal shrinkage stress of 22.7 cN.
The obtained composite textured yarn was not twisted and used as warps and wefts, and a plain woven fabric was produced by AJL with a design of a warp density of 83 yarn/2.54 cm and a weft density of 62 yarn/2.54 cm. Next, the gray fabric obtained was dyed and finished in order of refining, heat setting, disperse dye dyeing, drying, and finishing, by an ordinary method.
The woven fabric thus obtained had a warp density of 110 yarn/2.54 cm and a weft density of 86 yarn/2.54 cm, had sufficient stretch in the warp and weft directions, and had both fluff feeling and a texture of a natural fiber tone, with lightweight. The results are shown in Table 1.
Except that the composite textured yarn 1 obtained in Example 1 was used as a warp, and a 112T-72 filament false twisted yarn (false twisted yarn 1) obtained by false-twisting a side-by-side shape original yarn (titanium dioxide content: PET 1.4 mass % and PBT 1.5 mass %) composed of polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate was used as a weft, the same procedure as in Example 1 was carried out. The results are shown in Table 1.
Except that a 112T-72 filament false twisted yarn (false twisted yarn 1) obtained by false-twisting a side-by-side shape original yarn (titanium dioxide content: PET 1.4 mass % and PBT 1.5 mass %) composed of polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate was used as a warp, and the composite textured yarn 1 obtained in Example 1 was used as a weft, the same procedure as in Example 1 was carried out. The results are shown in Table 1.
Side-by-side shape original yarn (titanium dioxide content: PET 1.4 mass % and PBT 1.5 mass %) 87 dtex/48 filaments composed of polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate were thermally drawn to form thick and thin spots in the fiber axis direction to obtain a drawn yarn A. Next, the cation-dyeable polyester 310 dtex-48 filaments (titanium dioxide content: 1.5 mass %, and round cross section) were thermally drawn to form thick and thin spots in the fiber axis direction to obtain a drawn yarn B. Two drawn yarn were false twisted by a conventional method, the drawn yarn A was 66T-48 filaments, and the drawn yarn B was 164T-48 filaments. A combined false twisted yarn obtained by subjecting the drawn yarn A and B to air entangling was wound as composite textured yarn.
The obtained composite textured yarn (composite textured yarn 2) had 230 dtex-96 filaments, the difference in yarn length of 0.8%, and the maximum thermal shrinkage stress of 25.9 cN.
The obtained composite textured yarn was twisted at 600 T/m and used as a warp, and the obtained composite textured yarn was used as a weft without being twisted, and a plain woven fabric was produced by AJL with a design of warp density of 57 yarn/2.54 cm and weft density of 38 yarn/2.54 cm. Next, the gray fabric obtained was dyed and finished in order of refining, heat setting, cation dye dyeing, disperse dye dyeing, drying, and finishing, by an ordinary method.
The woven fabric thus obtained had a warp density of 71 yarn/2.54 cm and a weft density of 50 yarn/2.54 cm, was a material having a melange tone in which a portion dyed with a disperse dye was navy blue and a portion dyed with a cation was dark navy, and had an L value of 18.5. The obtained woven fabric had sufficient stretch in the warp and weft directions, was lightweight, and had a natural melange feeling and a specific texture of the melange natural fiber due to the difference in dyeing of thick and thin spots in the fiber axis direction. The results are shown in Table 1.
Composite textured yarn 3 was obtained in which the cationic dyeable polyester used in the composite textured yarn 2 described in Example 4 had an eight-lobe cross section. The obtained composite textured yarn 3 had 230 dtex-96 filaments, a difference in yarn length of 0.7%, and a maximum thermal shrinkage stress of 22.1 cN.
The obtained composite textured yarn was twisted at 600 T/m and used as a warp, and the obtained composite textured yarn was not twisted and used as a weft, and the same treatment as in Example 4 was carried out.
The woven fabric thus obtained had a warp density of 70 yarn/2.54 cm and a weft density of 51 yarn/2.54 cm, was a material having a melange tone in which a portion dyed with a disperse dye was navy blue and a portion dyed with a cation was dark navy, and had an L value of 17.6. The obtained woven fabric had sufficient stretchability in the warp and weft directions, was lightweight, and had not only a natural melange feeling of melange natural fibers due to the difference in dyeing of thick and thin spots in the fiber axis direction, but also further had a natural fiber tone stronger than that of the woven fabric of Example 4 due to an eight-lobe cross section by which reflected light on the fiber surface was diffused and a luster feeling characteristic of synthetic fibers was suppressed.
Using polyethylene terephthalate semi-dull drawn yarn 56 dtex/24 filaments (titanium dioxide content: 1.5 mass %, and round cross section) as core yarn, Taslan textured yarn obtained by thermally drawing a polyethylene terephthalate semi-dull 90 dtex/72 filaments (titanium dioxide content: 1.5 mass %, round cross section) as sheath yarn and then feeding the yarn at a rate of 4.3% higher than the core yarn feed rate, and performing air entanglement using a turbulence processing nozzle was wound.
The obtained Taslan textured yarn had 122 dtex-96 filaments, a difference in yarn length of 3.8%, and a maximum thermal shrinkage stress of 3.2 cN.
The obtained Taslan textured yarn was used as a warp without being twisted, and a 112T-72 filament false twisted yarn (false twisted yarn 1) obtained by false-twisting a side-by-side shape original yarn composed of polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate was used as a weft. A plain woven fabric was produced by AJL with a design having a warp density of 98 yarn/2.54 cm and a weft density of 60 yarn/2.54 cm. Next, the gray fabric obtained was dyed and finished in order of refining, heat setting, disperse dye dyeing, drying, and finishing, by an ordinary method.
The woven fabric thus obtained had a warp density of 122 yarn/2.54 cm and a weft density of 63 yarn/2.54 cm, and was lightweight, but had no stretchability in the warp direction, and was poor in wearing comfort. The results are shown in Table 1.
A 112T-72 filament false twisted yarn (false twisted yarn 1) obtained by subjecting a side-by-side shape original yarn (titanium dioxide content: PET 1.4 mass % and PBT 1.5 mass %) composed of polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate to a false twist process was used as warps and wefts of a woven fabric, and the woven fabric was woven at a warp density of 79 yarn/2.54 cm and a weft density of 70 yarn/2.54 cm, and subjected to a finishing process in the same manner as in Example 1.
The obtained woven fabric had a warp density of 107 yarn/2.54 cm and a weft density of 94 yarn/2.54 cm, and had high stretchability, but had glare due to a luster characteristic of synthetic fibers, and was poor in natural fiber tone. The results are shown in Table 1.
Two piece of side-by-side shape original yarn (titanium dioxide content: PET 1.4 mass % and PBT 1.5 mass %) 130 dtex/72 filaments composed of polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate were aligned as two piece of core yarn, and the core yarn were drawn and heat-treated at a heater temperature of 168° C. to obtain a composite textured yarn 164 dtex-144. Polyethylene terephthalate semi-dull 150 dtex/72 filaments (titanium dioxide content: 1.5 mass %, round cross section) were fed at a rate of 5.2% higher than the core yarn feed rate as sheath yarn, and air entangled using a turbulence processing nozzle to be wound.
The obtained composite textured yarn (composite textured yarn 4) had 342 dtex-216 filaments, the difference in yarn length of 3.4%, and the maximum thermal shrinkage stress of 42.4 cN.
Next, side-by-side shape original yarn (titanium dioxide content: PET 1.4 mass % and PBT 1.5 mass %) composed of polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate was false twisted by a conventional method to obtain a false twisted yarn having 336 dtex-144 filaments (false twisted yarn 2).
The composite textured yarn 3 as a warp and the false twisted textured yarn 2 as a weft were used, and woven at a warp density of 50 yarn/2.54 cm and a weft density of 37 yarn/2.54 cm, and the same dyeing finish processing as in Example 1 was performed.
The obtained woven fabric had a warp density of 66 yarn/2.54 cm and a weft density of 51 yarn/2.54 cm, and had sufficient stretchability, but the fabric was heavy and lacked lightweight properties, and was poor in wearing comfort. The results are shown in Table 1.
The composite textured yarn obtained in Example 1 was used as a warp and a weft, and a warp double woven fabric structure was woven at a warp density of 158 yarn/2.54 cm and a weft density of 60 yarn/2.54 cm, and finish processing was performed in the same manner as in Example 1.
The obtained woven fabric had a warp density of 207 yarn/2.54 cm and a weft density of 80 yarn/2.54 cm, and had high stretchability, but lacked lightweight properties and was poor in wearing comfort. The results are shown in Table 1.
Except that the false twisted yarn 1 of 112T-72 filaments obtained by false-twisting a side-by-side shape original yarn (titanium dioxide content: PET 1.4 mass %, PTT 1.3 mass %) composed of polyethylene terephthalate and polytrimethylene terephthalate was used as a warp and the composite textured yarn 1 obtained in Example 1 was used as a weft, the same procedure as in Example 1 was carried out. The results are shown in Table 1.
Polytrimethylene terephthalate was capable of obtaining stretchability, but since it was a high stretch and Low density woven fabric, shrinkage was too strong, and deterioration in appearance quality due to embossing (visually evaluated), washing shrinkage (evaluated using a shrinkage ratio after 3 times washing, tumble drying according to JIS L 1930:2014 C4M method (in accordance with JIS L 1096:2010 H-2 method)) and press shrinkage (evaluated according to JIS L 1096:2010 H-2 method) were strong, and it was inferior to the other examples in terms of embossing and washing resistance.
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2022-000935 | Jan 2022 | JP | national |
This application is a US national stage filing under 35 U.S.C. § 371 of International Application No. PCT/JP2022/047118 filed Dec. 21, 2022, which claims priority to Japanese Patent Application No. 2022-000935 filed Jan. 6, 2022, each of which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety.
| Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/JP2022/047118 | 12/21/2022 | WO |
