The present invention relates to a training device and training method for applying a sugar composition for hair removal.
Traditionally, hair removal has been performed by waxing. This is typically done in a salon by a body wax professional using hot or cold wax applied to the hair which the clients wish to have removed. The waxing products are made of petroleum based resins and chemicals which can be prone to contamination or cross contamination. With hot waxing, there are risks of burning skin, damaging the dermal cells, scarring the follicle mouth or surrounding area and causing pigmentation. The wax will adhere to the skin cells, or any surface it is applied to, making pulling it away painful. When waxing, you remove the unwanted hair against the natural direction of growth which causes undue levels of pain and becomes the major contributor to ingrown hair. Hair trapped under the skin which can also be painful and unsightly and cause infections.
A hair follicle is a skin organ that produces hair. Hair production occurs in phases, including a growth phase (anagen), and cessation phase (catagen), and a resting phase (telogen). Stem cells are principally responsible for the production of hair.
Anagen is the active growth phase of hair follicles. The roots of the hair are dividing rapidly, adding to the hair shaft. During this phase, the hair grows about I cm every 28 days. Scalp hair stays in this active phase of growth for 2-7 years. The amount of time the hair follicle stays in the anagen phase is genetically determined. There are other factors that can affect hair growth and hair loss patterns such as disease, medication, stress, and severe dieting. Generally, genes play the major role. At the end of the anagen phase, the follicle goes into the catagen phase.
“Advanced body sugaring” is a unique and innovative process for the removal of unwanted facial and body hair for men, women and children alike.
In some examples, the methods of the current invention are performed by trained professionals in advanced body sugaring and skin conditioning treatments through salons and spa therapy facilities. In other examples, the methods may be performed at home.
Sugaring requires an entirely different mind-set and approach than for waxing. In the methods described, the all natural sugaring compositions do not adhere to live skin cells, therefore, when the compositions are removed, the composition gently exfoliates dead skin cells and leaves behind freshened skin. There is no after pain, stickiness, bruising or burning.
In one example, the sugaring compositions comprise pure sugar, water and lemon. They are edible and delicious, and since they are water soluble, can easily rinsed away if accidentally applied to an area. The sugaring will extract all hair colors and textures. The sugaring methods remove the hair in the natural direction of the hair growth.
When the sugar paste is applied, it seeps into the hair follicle and helps lubricate that hair root. The sugaring process will successfully treat all skin types and colors while improving skin tone and texture. Sugaring will eliminate ingrown hairs, and help prevent new ingrown hairs from developing. Since sugaring is done at body temperature, and requires no heat, the process eliminates the risk of burning the skin. The treatment adheres to the hair, not to the skin, and lubricates the root for easier removal from the hair root.
These factors, combined with the hair removal in the natural direction of growth, create a much more comfortable experience for everyone.
Theory
The Kennedy Theory® for sugaring hair removal using Alexandria Professional® (AP) sugar paste formulations in conjunction with the Kennedy Sugaring Technique Theory™ is as follows:
In one embodiment, the AP sugar paste formulation is applied using the Kennedy Sugaring Technique Application as described in Step 200 below—the “molding process”. This application technique allows the sugar paste to penetrate down into the follicle and to lubricate the hair inside as well as to grip the hair and inner root sheath. Basically, the sugar is sticking to everything on the inside of the follicle that it touches.
Taking a hair in the early anagen stage promotes a faster refinement (thinning) and depletion of the hair, so that the amount of hair and difficulty of removal decrease in subsequent sugaring treatments. When a hair is extracted intact and in its natural direction while in the anagen stage, it has a large bulb traveling through the follicle which takes some of the inner root sheath with it as it is being extracted. The inner root sheath also carries matrix cells responsible for helping to grow the hair. We are all born with a predetermined amount of matrix cells, and by depleting the follicle's inner root sheath time and time again, you help to deplete the hairs growth source.
In addition to the Kennedy Theory®, when you extract a hair in the early anagen stage, you are taking the hair while it is still attached to the derma papilla—its feeding source/nourishment from blood vessels.
Applicant theorizes that extracting a hair in the early anagen stage causes the vessels to be cauterized. Cauterization may also occur instantly from time to time whereby there are no more vessels to continue the nourishment to a given follicle. This explains a reason why sometimes a hair never grows back after a single treatment.
Applicant theorizes that sometimes only some of the vessels become cauterized, and that this partial cauterization is the reason why we see instant refinement results and ongoing refinement results. This phenomena is generally observed if the hair is treated in the early anagen stage which means treatments when the hair is quite short such as ½ mm up to 2 mm.
The length of hair also depends primarily on the location of the hair on the body.
These theories extend the Kennedy Theory®, to explain why the Alexandria Professional® System is successful at providing immediate excellent instant staggered growth and hair refinement—all leading to permanent results.
Sugaring treatments cause hair to quickly become less resistant to extraction.
With the Alexandria Professional® sugaring technique, the sugar paste is seeped into the follicles and then removed with a “flicking” action in the natural direction of the hair growth. This action actually extracts hair in the early anagen stage while simultaneously removing debris from the follicles and gently exfoliating the skin as well. Extraction of hair in the early anagen stage, when the hair is generally 1/16″ (less than Imm) in length, promotes quicker refinement that leads to diminishment.
Sugaring is an excellent method to refine and diminish hair growth, and simultaneous benefits occur with each treatment. As the sugar paste is molded onto the skin, it naturally seeps into the follicles and sticks to and grips everything it touches inside the follicle including the root of the hair, the debris accumulation from the skin's surface that can become embedded in the follicle, and the inner root sheath carrying matrix cells.
When the quick “flick” action is performed, the sugar paste inside the follicle connected to the sugar paste molded onto the skin is all removed at the same time—taking with it all that is connected to it inside and out. This action is very gentle because the sugar paste acts as a lubricant inside the follicles which allows for a more gentle extraction and allows for the extraction of hair in the natural direction of its growth.
Comodones (blackheads or compacted pores) can also be gently and safely treated with the Alexandria Professional's unique sugaring technique. As described above, the Mud Puddle will help to draw more impurities from the pores in between sugaring treatments.
6 Step Sugaring Technique
The following description is of an improved sugaring technique which can be used in a stand alone fashion, but which has enhanced results as part of an overall skin conditioning program. This description is directed at an instructor who is teaching skin care professionals how to use the technique in salons. The technique may also be used at home.
Before You Start—Confirming Hand Position
Standing across from each student at the massage table, shake hands with one student at a time and ask them to release from the handshake by dropping the hand to the table. Observe how they place their hand when it reaches the table. Repeat this action until their hand is in the correct handshake position as it reaches the table. Have them observe your hand as it reaches the table so they can mimic it. This is to establish the correct hand position to begin treatment and the correct hand position to “flick” (remove) the sugar off the skin.
You should never be seeing the top off your hand when in the “hand shake” position.
Step 100 Hand to Skin (“Handshake Position”)
In
At step 100, the technician places the sugar paste on the client. The sugar paste is placed on the client's skin with the technician's sugaring hand. The sugar paste is placed on the client's skin, and not in the palm of the technician's hand. The sugar paste is confined to the inside of the technician's fingers and is not present behind the technician's fingers. A controlled and moderate pressure of the technician's fingers 85, 86, and 87 and hand is maintained on the client's skin. In this example, the index finger 84 is not used to apply pressure to the skin. In other examples, the index finger is used to apply equal pressure as the middle finger 85, ring finger 86, and baby finger 87. The thumb 83 of the technician's sugaring hand is used to keep the sugar paste rolling onto the client's skin so that the sugar paste does not move to the technician's palm 81.
Step 200 Bring the Sugar Paste (“Molding/Massage”)
At step 200, the technician maintains a hand position similar to Step 1, with the exception that the technician needs to control the wrist in order to bring the sugar forward. The thumb 83 of the sugaring hand is used to keep the sugar paste 92 off the palm and down on the skin and to keep the sugar paste rolling onto the skin as the technician applies the sugar paste. An even pressure is maintained on all fingertips being used to sugar, and the even pressure helps to keep a solid control of the wrist. The even pressure and wrist control facilitates an even application of the paste. The technician should spread the fingers of the application hand for smoother equal application whilst keeping the fingers in a parallel line to each other. If the fingers are kept too tightly close together, it will affect the application, the time it takes to complete the treatment, especially of legs and arms, and the comfort of the application.
Step 300 Drop Your Wrist (“Relax/No Pressure”)
At step 300, the technician immediately stops the application and molding of the sugar paste; and prepares for steps 400, or for steps 500 and 600. As described below, steps 100-400 will typically be repeated once or twice before steps 500 and 600 are executed. If this step is performed incorrectly, then the client may experience discomfort or pain during the release; or may experience discomfort or pain and broken hair when “flicking”.
Step 400 Release from Sugar Paste (“Airplane”)
At step 400, the technician releases the hand from the sugar paste without lifting the skin by executing an “airplane take-off” action—NOT a helicopter. The technician is then properly positioned to repeat steps 100 and 200. If this step is performed incorrectly, then the technician can lift the client's skin or pull the client's hair and cause pain during release. The airplane take off analogy provides a reminder to the technician to execute a release with the application hand at an acute angle to the skin without abruptly cutting away from the sugar paste.
Repeat of Steps 100-400
It is generally desirable to repeat the “molding” process once or twice over a region of skin before flicking off the sugar paste. This repeated molding helps to work the sugar into the follicles for better hair removal.
Step 500 Roll Paste Sugar Paste (“Prepare to Flick”)
The sugar paste is not removed during this step. Step 500 should be performed correctly in order to prepare for step 600. The purpose for performing step 500 is to allow the technician to stop with the pressure of step 200 after they have come to step 300, and to “roll past” the applied sugar on the skin while reducing their contact pressure by 50% and continuing to roll on the applied sugar to get to the end of the applied sugar paste. The technician continues to apply equal pressure to all fingers on the application hand. The technician prepares for the “kick-off” (Step 600) by connecting to the end of the sugar paste application. This is similar to removing a piece of tape, by gripping the very edge of the tape to remove it.
Step 600 Kick-Off (“Flick”)
At step 600, the technician maintains a comfortable relaxed wrist and application position for the “Kick command” while still moving onto the skin past the applied paste. If the technician sees the palm of the application hand, then the technician should not perform step 600, but should attempt to reposition the hand more into the same relaxed position of step 300. If that fails, the technician should start over at step 100.
The technician's fingers must always remain in a parallel position with equal reduced pressure applied by each finger. A kick-back maneuver is executed without lifting the application hand off the sugar paste. The technician preferably issues a voice command to stress the word “KICK”, and a voice command to stress the word “Handshake” whilst continuing to gently move on the skin and the a final command of the word “OFF”. A firm wrist action is used when performing the “OFF” voice command, with little effort from the technician's shoulder. The “OFF” command should immediately follow the “Handshake” command without the slightest hesitation. If this step is performed incorrectly, then the client may experience discomfort or pain from lifted skin or broken hair. The technician should stay connected to the sugar and skin when “kicking” and when going from a step 300 positioning of the hand.
Second and Consecutive Kick-Off Using “Snap-Back” Action (“the Art of Sugaring”)
The technician should immediately snap-back the kicked-off (flicked-off) sugar paste to accumulate it on the client's skin in order to prevent the sugar paste from travelling on the client's skin and to effectively sugar each molded strip while performing professional sugaring treatments. Snap-back will allow the technician to control the sugar paste as it is repeatedly “flicked” off the skin and to prevent it from flying away from the technician's hand and onto the treatment table, the floor and even walls. Snap-back is an intricate part of on-going technique of the 6 Steps to perfect sugaring.
By deciding exactly where one wants to accumulate the “flicked sugar”, the technician can perform step 600 and immediately return her sugaring hand connected to the “flicked sugar paste” to the exact pre-determined spot on the skin. This will allow them to accumulate/gather the sugar paste in a small “pile”, perform step 100 behind the sugar paste pile to collect it and continue to sugar that strip until it is completely off the skin.
Predetermining where to return the sugaring hand after performing step 600 will help the technician to prevent “travelling on the skin” either in front or behind the applied sugar paste. This will prevent the technician from overworking an area, from getting stuck on the skin and help them to become quicker at the treatment without compromising efficiency.
After each “kick-off” the technician should immediately position the application hand according to step 100 and immediately move to step 300. Step 200 should be eliminated whenever the technician is ready to execute a series of kick off steps. Step 500 (and then step 600) is performed if there is a distance of sugar paste remaining on the skin; and step 600 is performed after step 300 if the sugar paste distance is minimal such as I to 2 inches maximum.
If these steps are performed incorrectly, then the client may experience discomfort or pain from lifted skin or broken hair.
Over performing Step 200 will overwork the sugar paste and likely melt it too much into the skin and get the technician stuck. The technician can cause some irritation from trying to Kick-Off sugar paste that is melted into the skin. This can also cause the technician to become too hot from frustration. If this melting occurs, the technician should simply relax, gently remove the application hand from the sugar paste using Step 400, and continue to sugar in another area. When you leave the melted sugar paste for a few minutes, it will cool down and be easier to remove.
The technician executes steps 100-600 at a first upper portion of the arm with the application hand.
After the application of the sugar paste on a strip of the upper arm and the initial kick-off, the technician brings the hand to the position of step 100 over a second portion of skin slightly lower on the upper arm, collects the sugar paste that was kicked-off by placing the hand just behind the collected paste, and executes steps 300, step 500 and then step 600. These steps are repeated until the applied strip of sugar paste is completely removed from the skin. (Step 200 is eliminated for several successive kick-off sequences, and step 500 is eliminated when there is less than 2 inches distance of paste remaining on the client's skin.)
After the first applied strip of sugar paste is removed and all the hair beneath the applied sugar paste is extracted, the technician brings the hand to the position of step 100 over another section of the upper arm portion of skin and executes steps 300,400,500 and step 600. (Step 200 is eliminated for several successive kick-off sequences, and step 500 is eliminated when there is less than 2 inches distance of paste remaining on the client's skin.)
These steps are repeated until each section of the upper arm is completed and all hair is extracted.
After the upper arm is completed, the technician brings the hand to the position of step 100 over a portion of skin on the underneath part of the lower arm, executes steps 300, 400, 500 and step 600. Afterwards, the same protocol in applying the steps is followed as with the upper arm. Once the underneath portion of the lower arm is completed and all hairs are extracted, the technician then moves to the top forearm. The hair in this portion of the arms grows sideways. The technician follows the natural direction of growth by positioning the hand to step 100 and executes step 200, 300, 400, 500 and step 600 respectively from the outside of the forearm to the inside of the forearm.
After the final kick-off of the first strip applied to the lower top forearm, the technician brings the hand to the position of step 100 over a new portion of the skin on the forearm, and executes steps 100-600.
The technician must always inspect the direction of the hair growth prior to beginning treatments using the 6 Steps. The Kennedy Theory® executes the extraction of hair only in the natural direction of hair growth, and this requires that Steps 100 and 200 be executed against the natural direction for better penetration of the sugar paste and an even gentler execution of step 600.
Each Step has magic to its performance. And, each Step relies on each other for perfect technique performance. When the technician fully understands the relevance of immediate sequencing for some of these Steps, the technician will be able to learn how to effectively extract hair less than I mm by applying T.H.E. Technique™ when it is called upon. (Tough Hair Extraction Technique)
With some patience the technician can gain experience and to master the magic of Alexandria Professional™ body sugaring hair removal and skin conditioning treatments.
Step 100 provides the technician full control of sugar paste, establishes her positioning onto the skin and the correct pressure.
Step 200 allows the technician to mold/apply the sugar paste without causing pain or discomfort to the client and to seep the sugar paste into the follicle.
Step 300 allows the technician to prepare for either the release of the hand from the sugar and skin, or the removal of the sugar paste without causing pain or discomfort to the client.
Step 400 allows the technician to return to continual Step 2 molding process without causing pain or discomfort.
Step 500 allows the technician to prepare for the removal of the sugar paste without causing pain or discomfort.
Step 600 allows the technician to effectively remove the sugar paste and extract the hair and to perform the “snap-back” without causing pain or discomfort. After each “kick-off” the technician should immediately position the application hand according to step 100 and immediately move to step 300.
Variations
When you are ready to prepare for the Kick-off, you no longer need to perform step 200. If you continue with step 200 every time you perform step 600, then you will overwork the sugar paste and the skin and cause the sugar to melt too much into the skin.
The purpose of step 400 is to correctly release from the sugar paste on the skin without causing discomfort when you are going back to repeat the molding step 200.
You only need to use step 500 when there is enough sugar paste molded onto the skin for you to “roll past” in preparation for the Kick-Off If there is only a small piece of sugar paste such as the very last Kick-Off, then you do not use step 500, but perform steps 100, 300, and 600.
Non-Permissible Variations in Preferred Embodiment
In the preferred embodiment, the sugaring technique is disciplined and several variations are non-permissible.
Every time that you return to/on the skin, you should be in the handshake position of step 100, even if you are “cleaning up” the skin.
Every time that you are ready to either release from the sugar paste, or to get ready to remove the sugar paste, you must perform step 300.
Every time you are taking sugar paste OFF the skin, you must use step 600, and be in a handshake position. This includes Kick-Offs and clean-ups.
The index finger 84 and the middle finger 85 are extended outwardly from the hand, and the right portion 854 of the tip 852 of the middle finger is resting lightly on the surface 50. In this example, the index finger 84 and the middle finger 85 are straight, and angled toward the palm at an angle of approximately 20-30 degrees so that the tip 852 of the middle finger is comfortably resting on the surface 50.
The ring finger 86 and little finger 87 are bent so that the right portion 874 of the tip 872 of the little finger, the right portion 864 of the tip 862 of the ring finger, and right portion 874 of the tip 872 of the middle finger are aligned and resting comfortably on the surface. This alignment of the tips of the bent little finger, bent ring finger, and angled middle finger creates a dam for containing the sugar paste composition as the hand is drawn in a backward direction along the surface to initially apply the composition.
In this orientation, the distal portion of the right side base of the hand 804 is maintained in contact with the surface. This contact further contains the sugar composition.
In sugaring application, the surface 50 would be a portion of a human body such as a leg, arm, or torso.
As the right side base of the hand is raised above the surface, a first separation 876 is created between the tip of the little finger and the tip of the ring finger; and a second separation 866 is created between the tip of the ring finger and the tip of the middle finger.
This alignment of the tips of the bent little finger, bent ring finger, and angled middle finger facilitates spreading the sugar paste composition as the hand is drawn in a backward direction along the surface to initially apply the composition.
Training Glove
Establishing and maintaining the desired finger positions 1s important for proper sugaring technique. The failure to maintain the proper finger positions can cause discomfort and can reduce the efficiency of the process. It is difficult to teach and to learn these finger positions. One way to improve the learning process is to provide a glove or other training device that assists the technician in maintaining the proper finger positions.
In this example, the thumb and index finger are not constrained by the glove. The thumb is inserted through opening 820, and the index finger is exposed through opening 889.
The glove includes a little finger portion 887, a ring finger portion 886, and a middle finger portion 885. In some examples, these finger portions are completely enclosed. In other examples, the finger tips are exposed.
In this example, the back side of the glove includes slot 825 for insertion of a middle finger alignment guide, slot 826 for insertion of a ring finger alignment guide, and slot 827 for insertion of a little finger alignment guide. These alignment guides keep the middle finger, the ring finger, and the little finger in a desired curvature as shown in
In other examples, individual finger inserts are provided on the palm side of the fingers.
In other examples, a single insert form is provided to position all three fingers—the middle finger, the ring finger, and the little finger.
One advantage to the single finger inserts, or to the multiple finger form, is the ability to help double-jointed technicians establish proper finger positioning. In this example, the desired position of the little finger and ring finger requires bending the ring finger or the little finger at both knuckles, and double-jointed persons have difficulty maintaining a desired bend at both knuckles. The guide guides help to hold the desired bent-finger positions.
In addition to establishing the desired finger bending, the individual finger inserts or the single inset form position the fingers so that the outside tips of the middle finger, ring finger, and little finger are properly aligned. This alignment helps to apply an appropriate pressure to the skin in a sugaring application.
The glove may be used for an initial training period, until the technician has established the habit of proper finger positioning. The glove may also be used on a routine basis after initial training.
While exemplary embodiments of the invention have been described, it should be apparent that modifications and variations thereto are possible, all of which fall within the true spirit and scope of the invention. The above description and drawings are illustrative of modifications that can be made without departing from the present invention, the scope of which is to be limited only by the following claims. Therefore, the foregoing is considered as illustrative only of the principles of the invention. Further, since numerous modifications and changes will readily occur to those skilled in the art, it is not desired to limit the invention to the exact construction and operation shown and described, and accordingly, all suitable modifications and equivalents are intended to fall within the scope of the invention as claimed.
This US non-provisional application is related to U.S. Provisional Application No. 62/164,243 filed May 20, 2015 by applicant and claims the priority of that filing date.
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