Patent Application
20170231889
The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions comprising micronized and/or soluble UV absorbers and one or more color pigments.
It has long been known that prolonged exposure to that UV radiation which reaches the surface of the earth can lead to the formation of erythemas or light dermatoses, as well as to an increased incidence of skin cancers or accelerated skin aging.
Various sunscreen formulations have been proposed which include actives which are intended to counteract UV radiation, thereby inhibiting the said undesired effects on the skin.
A great number of compounds has been proposed for the use as UV protectants in sunscreen formulations, especially soluble organic UV absorbers and also insoluble micronized organic and inorganic compounds, wich become more and more common in sunscreen formulations.
Micronised, insoluble organic UV absorbers, when used in sunscreen formulations, provide excellent UV protection and have a high SPF rating. Moreover, micronised, insoluble organic UV absorbers show no tendency, under the influence of light, to generate radicals which could damage or sensitise human skin.
Unfortunately, due to light scattering sun screen compostitions comprising organic and/or inorganic particulate filters show an articulate whitening aspect when applied on the skin.
The whitening aspect increases with higher concentration of the corresponding UV filters and will therefore limit their required quantity.
Furthermore, soluble and particulate UV filters which have absorption maximum in the UV-A region are mostly not colourless since these substances will absorb also light in the visible range of the spectrum. Due to the particular colour of these UV-A filters the resulting cosmetic sun screen formulations will be coloured. The hue of such formulations (in most cases yellowish) is considered as unnatural since it derivates significantly from the natural skin hue.
Furthermore, it is known that some UV filters show significant fluorescence. Artificial illuminations with a high UV ratio therefore generate very unnatural skin tones.
Surprisingly it has been found that the combination of particulate or soluble organic UV filters with one or more colour pigments provides cosmetic sunscreen formulations which have a hue that corresponds to the natural skin tone and is therefore not considered as unnatural.
Therefore the present invention relates to a cosmetic formulation comprising
(a) particulates having an absorption in the range of 400 to 800 nm; and
(b) UV filters selected from
Preferably component (a) is selected from
(a1) inorganic colour pigments; and
(a2) organic colour pigments.
Most preferably the inorganic pigments (a1) are selected from iron (III) oxide, magnetite and mixtures of these pigments; manganese doped TiO2 or ZnO; ultramarine pigments; chromium oxide green; chromium hydrate green; metal-particles; mica, bismuth oxychloride; glass flakes (borosilicates); interference-pigments based on mica (synthetic or of natural origin); or borosilicates (glass flakes), typically coated with thin layers of titanium dioxide (rutile or anastas), iron oxides or mixtures thereof and talcum.
The organic pigments (a2) are preferably selected from D&C Red 30 (Vat Red 1); D&C Red 36 (Pigment Red 4); Carmine; D&C Red 6 Ba Lake; D&C Red 7 Ca Lake; D&C Red 30 Al Lake; D&C Red 30 Talc Lake; D&C Red 27 Al Lake; D&C Red 28 Al Lake; D&C Red 33 Al Lake; D&C Red 21 Al Lake.
Of specific interest are the pigments/colours listed in Table 1 below:
indicates data missing or illegible when filed
The interference pigments as used in the present invention are platelet particulates. The platelet particulates preferably have a thickness of no more than about 5 micrometers, more preferably no more than about 2 micrometers, still more preferably no more than about 1 micrometer. The platelet particulates preferably have a thickness of at least about 0.02 micrometers, more preferably at least about 0.05 micrometers, even more preferably at least about 0.1 micrometers, and still more preferably at least about 0.2 micrometers.
The particle size determines the opacity and luster. The particle size is determined by measuring the diameter thickness of the particulate material. The term “diameter” as used herein, means the largest distance across the major axis of the particulate material. Diameter can be determined by any suitable method known in the art, such as particle size analyzer Mastersizer 2000 manufactured by Malvern Instruments. The interference pigments preferably have an average diameter not greater than about 200 micrometers, more preferably not greater than 150 micrometers. The interference pigments preferably have a diameter of at least about 0.1 micrometer, more preferably at least about 1.0 micrometer, even more preferably at least about 2.0 micrometer, and still more preferably at least about 5.0 micrometer.
The interference pigments comprise a multilayer structure. The center of the particulates is a flat substrate with a refractive index (RI) normally below 1.8. A wide variety of particle substrates are useful herein. Nonlimiting examples are natural mica, synthetic mica, graphite, talc, kaolin, alumina flake, bismuth oxychloride, silica flake, glass flake, ceramics, titanium dioxide, CaSO4, CaCO3, BaSO4, borosilicate and mixtures thereof, preferably mica, silica and alumina flakes.
A layer of thin film or a multiple layer of thin films are coated on the surface of a substrate described above. The thin films are made of highly refractive materials. The refractive index of these materials is normally above 1.8.
A wide variety of thin films are useful herein. Nonlimiting examples are TiO2, Fe2O3, SnO2, Cr2O3, ZnO, ZnS, SnO, ZrO2, CaF2, Al2O3, BiOCl, and mixtures thereof or in the form of separate layers, preferably TiO2, Fe2O3, Cr2O3, and SnO2.
For the multiple layer structures, the thin films can be consisted of all high refractive index materials or alternation of thin films with high and low RI materials with the high RI film as the top layer.
The interference pigment color is a function of the thickness of thin film, the thickness for a specific color may be different for different materials. For TiO2, a layer of 40 nm to 60 nm or a whole number multiple thereof gives silver color, 60 nm to 80 nm yellow color, 80 nm to 100 nm red color, 100 nm to 130 nm blue color, 130 nm to 160 nm green color.
In addition to the interference color, other transparent absorption pigments can be precipitated on top of or simultaneously with the TiO2 layer. Common materials are red or black iron oxide, ferric ferrocyanide, chromium oxide or carmine. It is found that the color of the interference pigment in addition to its brightness has a significant influence on human perception of skin tone. In general, preferred colors are silver, gold, red, green and mixtures thereof.
Nonlimiting examples of the interference pigments useful herein include those supplied by Persperse, Inc. under the trade name PRESTIGE®, FLONAC®; supplied by EMD Chemicals, Inc. under the trade name TIMIRON®, COLORONA®, DICHRONA® and XIRONA®; supplied by Engelhard Co. under the trade name FLAMENCO®, TIMICA®, DUOCHROME®; and supplied by Ciba under the trade name CALISHA®.
Although there are no critical limitations to the sizes of the pigment particles, preferably pigment particles having a size from about 0.01 to about 500 micrometers, more preferably having a size of about 1 to about 200 micrometers, most preferably having a size from about 5 to about 150 micrometers are modified with the silicone compounds according to formula
R1 is C1 to C22 branched or straight chain alkyl or aryl of six to ten carbon atoms;
R2 is C1 to C22 branched or straight chain alkyl or aryl of six to ten carbon atoms;
R3 is C1 to C22 branched or straight chain alkyl or aryl of six to ten carbon atoms;
R4 is C11 to C22 branched or straight chain alkyl or aryl of six to ten carbon atoms;
q is from 1 to about 2000;
t is from 1 to about 2000; the sum of q+t is from 2 to about 2000;
R5 is C1 to C22 branched or straight chain alkyl or aryl of six to ten carbon atoms;
R6 is C1 to C22 branched or straight chain alkyl or aryl of six to ten carbon atoms;
R7 is C1 to C22 branched or straight chain alkyl or aryl of six to ten carbon atoms;
R8 is C1 to C22 branched or straight chain alkyl or aryl of six to ten carbon atoms;
a is from 1 to about 100;
b is from 1 to about 100; the sum of a+b is from 2 to about 100; and
x is an integer from 1 to about 2000.
It will often be desirable to coat the pigment particles with, for example, one or more hydrous inorganic oxides, for example, hydrated silica or alumina, TiO2, Fe-oxides, tin oxide, mica, zinc oxide, colorants like carmine or Prussian blue.
Examples of pigments include inorganic pigments, metal oxides and hydroxides, mica, organic pigments, pearlescent pigments, mineral silicates, porous materials, carbons, interference pigments, and the like.
Preferred pigment particles are selected from the group consisting of inorganic pigments, metal oxides and hydroxides, mica, organic pigments, pearlescent pigments, mineral silicates, porous materials, carbons, and interference pigments.
Examples of the inorganic pigments capable of being modified are ultramarine blue, Prussian blue, manganese violet, titanium-coated mica, bismuth oxychloride, iron oxides, iron hydroxide, titanium dioxide, titanium lower oxides, and chromium hydroxide.
Examples of the metal oxides and hydroxides capable of being modified are magnesium oxide, magnesium hydroxide, calcium oxide, calcium hydroxides, aluminum oxide, aluminum hydroxide, silica, iron oxides (α-Fe2O3, γ-Fe2O3, Fe3O4, FeO), iron hydroxides, titanium dioxide, titanium lower oxides, zirconium oxide, chromium oxides, chromium hydroxides, man-ganese oxides, cobalt oxides, nickel oxides, and zinc oxides. These oxides and hydroxides may be used alone or in any mixture thereof. Furthermore, composite oxides and composite hydroxides such as iron titanate, cobalt titanate, and cobalt aluminate can also be used in the present invention.
Composite materials comprising metal oxides or hydroxides coated on the core materials (e.g., titanium oxides coated mica, iron oxides coated nylon) can also be used in the present Invention.
Examples of the organic pigments capable of being modified with the silicone compounds of formula (SC1), SC(2), or (SC3) are C.I. 15850, C.I. 15850:1, C.I. 15585:1, C.I. 15630, C.I. 15880:1, C.I. 73360, C.I. 12085, C.I. 15865:2, C.I. 12075, C.I. 21110, C.I. 21095, and C.I. 11680, C.I. 74160 and zirconium, barium, or aluminum lakes of C.I. 45430, C.I. 45410, C.I. 45100, C.I. 17200, C.I. 45380, C.I. 45190, C.I. 14700, C.I. 15510, C.I. 19140, C.I. 15985, C.I. 45350, C.I. 47005, C.I. 42053, C.I. 42090.
C.I. means Colour Index as compiled by the by The Society of Dyers and Colourists and The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colourists.
The range of interesting organic pigments may additionally comprise monoazo, disazo, naphthol, dioxazone, azomethin, azocondensation, metal complex, nitro, perinone, quinoline, anthraquinone, benzimidozolone, isoindoline, isoindolinone, triarylmethane, quinacridone, hydroxyanthraquinone, aminoanthraquinone, anthrapyrimidine, indanthrone, flavanthrone, pyranthrone, anthantrone, isoviolanthrone, diketopyrrolopyrrole, carbazole, indigo or thiolndigo pigments.
Mixtures of the organic pigments may be used.
Examples of these pigments and also further pigments can be found in the monograph: W. Herbst, K. Hunger “Industrielle Organische Pigmente,” 2.sup.nd edition, 1995, VCH Verlagsgesellschaft.
Preferred pigments are mono- or disazo pigments, preferably mono- or diarylides, or metal complexes, preferably a copper phthalocyanine pigment, or naphthol pigments, preferably β-naphthol or α,β-oxynaphthoic acid (BONA) pigments, or quinacridones or indanthrones.
More preferably, the following organic pigments are used inventively:
The surfaces of these organic pigments may be treated additionally with, for example, rosins.
Examples of pearlescent pigments (or nacreous pigments) are mica-titanium composite materials containing, as a titanium component, titanium dioxide, titanium lower oxides, titanium oxynitride, mica-iron oxide composite materials, bismuth oxychloride, and guanine. The mica-titanium composite materials may be mixed with colored pigments such as iron oxides, Prussian blue, chromium oxide, carbon black, and carmine. These pearlescent pigments may be used alone or in any mixture thereof.
The interference pigments are platelet particulates. The platelet particulates preferably have a thickness of no more than about 5 micrometers, more preferably no more than about 2 micrometers, still more preferably no more than about 1 micrometer. The platelet particulates preferably have a thickness of at least about 0.02 micrometers, more preferably at least about 0.05 micrometers, even more preferably at least about 0.1 micrometers, and still more preferably at least about 0.2 micrometers.
The particle size determines the opacity and luster. The particle size is determined by measuring the diameter thickness of the particulate material. The term “diameter” as used herein, means the largest distance across the major axis of the particulate material. Diameter can be determined by any suitable method known in the art, such as particle size analyzer Mastersizer 2000 manufactured by Malvern Instruments. The interference pigments preferably have an average diameter not greater than about 200 micrometers, more preferably not greater than 150 micrometers. The interference pigments preferably have a diameter of at least about 0.1 micrometer, more preferably at least about 1.0 micrometer, even more preferably at least about 2.0 micrometer, and still more preferably at least about 5.0 micrometer.
The interference pigments comprise a multilayer structure. The center of the particulates is a flat substrate with a refractive index (RI) normally below 1.8. A wide variety of particle substrates are useful herein. Nonlimiting examples are natural mica, synthetic mica, graphite, talc, kaolin, alumina flake, bismuth oxychloride, silica flake, glass flake, ceramics, titanium dioxide, CaSO4, CaCO3, BaSO4, borosilicate and mixtures thereof, preferably mica, silica and alumina flakes.
A layer of thin film or a multiple layer of thin films are coated on the surface of a substrate described above. The thin films are made of highly refractive materials. The refractive index of these materials is normally above 1.8.
A wide variety of thin films are useful herein. Nonlimiting examples are TiO2, Fe2O3, SnO2, Cr2O3, ZnO, ZnS, SnO, ZrO2, CaF2, Al2O3, BiOCl, and mixtures thereof or in the form of separate layers, preferably TiO2, Fe2O3, Cr2O3 and SnO2.
For the multiple layer structures, the thin films can be consisted of all high refractive index materials or alternation of thin films with high and low RI materials with the high RI film as the top layer.
The interference pigment color is a function of the thickness of thin film, the thickness for a specific color may be different for different materials. For TiO2, a layer of 40 nm to 60 nm or a whole number multiple thereof gives silver color, 60 nm to 80 nm yellow color, 80 nm to 100 nm red color, 100 nm to 130 nm blue color, 130 nm to 160 nm green color. In addition to the interference color, other transparent absorption pigments can be precipitated on top of or simultaneously with the TiO2 layer. Common materials are red or black iron oxide, ferric ferrocyanide, chromium oxide or carmine. It is found that the color of the interference pigment in addition to its brightness has a significant influence on human perception of skin tone. In general, preferred colors are silver, gold, red, green and mixtures thereof.
Nonlimiting examples of the interference pigments useful herein include those supplied by Persperse, Inc. under the trade name PRESTIGE®, FLONAC®; supplied by EMD Chemicals, Inc. under the trade name TIMIRON®, COLORONA®, DICHRONA® and XIRONA®; supplied by Engelhard Co. under the trade name FLAMENCO®, TIMICA®, DUOCHROME®; and supplied by Ciba under the trade name CALISHA®.
The particulate organic UV-filter (b1) is preferably selected from benztriazoles of formula
wherein
More preferably the particulate organic UV-filters (b1) is Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol and corresponds to formula
Preferably the organic UV-filter (b1) is also selected from the triazine derivatives of formula
wherein
More preferably, in formula (3) R3 and R4 is hydrogen; and
Most preferably the organic UV-filter (b1) corresponds to the formula
In a preferred embodiment of the present inveniton, component (b1) represents a mixture of the compounds of formula (2) and (4).
In another preferred embodiment of the present inveniton the particulate organic UV-filter (b1) is selected from the benzophenone derivatives of formula
wherein
Most preferably the particulate organic UV-filter (b1) corresponds to formula
The particulate organic UV filters (b1) according to the present invention, preferably the UV filters of formulas (2), (4) and (6) can be mixed together directly with the particulates (a) and provided as trade products.
In a preferred embodiment the particulate organic UV filters (b1) according to the present invention, preferably the UV filters of formulas (2), (4) and (6) can be co-micronized directly with the particulates (a).
Preferably the soluble organic UV-filter (b2) is selected from triazine derivatives of formula
wherein
Most preferably the soluble organic UV-filter (b2) corresponds to formula
In another preferred embodiment of the present invention (b2) is a dibenzoylmethane derivative, more preferably butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone).
In another preferred embodiment of the present invention (b2) is a 2-hydroxy benzophenone derivative of formula
wherein
Most preferably the soluble organic UV-filter (b2) is Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate [CAS Regno. 302776-68-7].
In another preferred embodiment of the present invention the soluble organic UV-filter (b2) is a merocyanine derivative of formula
wherein
Most preferably the soluble organic UV-filter (b2) is a merocyanine derivative of formula
In a preferred embodiment of the present invention (b) represents a mixture selected from (mix1) the compounds of formulae (2), (4) (8) and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane;
More preferably, (b) represents a mixture of at least one particulate organic UV filter (b1) and at least one soluble organic UV filter (b2).
In a most preferred embodiment of the present invention the cosmetic formulation comprises
Most preferably the particulate UV filters (b) is a mixture of the compound of formula (2) and (4).
The cosmetic formulation according to the present invention preferably comprises
0.01 to 10% b.w of particulates (a); and
0.1 to 40% b.w of UV filters (b).
Preferred is a formulation which is free of soluble organic UV filters (b2) and other soluble UV filters.
The particulate organic UV-filters (b1) according to the present invention are present in the micronized state. They may be prepared by any known process suitable for the preparation of microparticles, for example:wet-milling, wet-kneading, spray-drying from a suitable solvent, by expansion according to the RESS process (Rapid Expansion of Supercritical Solutions) of supercritical fluids (e.g. CO2, by reprecipitation from suitable solvents, including supercritical fluids (GASR process=Gas Anti-Solvent Recrystallisation/PCA process=Precipitation with Compressed Anti-solvents).
As milling apparatus for the preparation of the sparingly soluble micronised organic compounds there may be used, for example, a jet mill, ball mill, vibratory mill or hammer mill, preferably a high-speed mixing mill. Even more preferable mills are modern ball mills; manufacturers of these types of mill are, for example, Netzsch (LMZ mill), Drais (DCP-Viscoflow or Cosmo), Bühler AG (centrifugal mills) or Bachhofer.
Examples of kneading apparatus for the preparation of the micronised organic UV absorbers are typical sigma-blade batch kneaders but also serial batch kneaders (IKA-Werke) or continuous kneaders (Continua from Werner and Pfleiderer).
The grinding of organic compounds used in the present invention is preferably carried out with a grinding aid.
Preferably, a dispersing agent is used as a low molecular weight grinding aid for all the above micronisation processes.
Preferred useful grinding aids for an aqueous dispersion are anionic surfactants with a HLB (Hydrophile-Lipophile Balance) value higher than 8, more preferably higher than 10.
Any conventionally usable anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric surfactants can be used as dispersing agents (component (b)). Such surfactant systems may comprise for example: carboxylic acids and their salts: alkaline soap of sodium, potassium and ammonium, metallic soap of calcium or magnesium, organic basis soap such as Lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic and oleic acid etc., alkyl phosphates or phosphoric acid esters, acid phosphate, diethanolamine phosphate, potassium cetyl phosphate, ethoxylated carboxylic acids or polyethylene-glycol esters, PEG-n acrylates, fatty alcohol polyglycolether such as laureth-n, myreth-n, ceteareth-n, steareth-n, oleth-n, fatty acid polyglycolether such as PEG-n stearate, PEG-n oleate, PEG-n cocoate, monoglycerides and polyol esters, C12-C22 fatty acid mono- and di-esters of addition products of from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide with polyols,fatty acid and polyglycerol ester such as monostearate glycerol, diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3-diisostearates, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearates, triglyceryl diisostearates, polyglyceryl-2-sesquiisostearates or polyglyceryl dimerates. mixtures of compounds from a plurality of those substance classes are also suitable, fatty acid polyglycolesters such as monostearate diethylene glycol, fatty acid and polyethylene glycol esters, fatty acid and saccharose esters such as sucro esters, glycerol and saccharose esters such as sucro glycerides. Sorbitol and sorbitan, sorbitan mono- and di-esters of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids having from 6 to 22 carbon atoms and ethylene oxide addition products, polysorbate-n series, sorbitan esters such as sesquiisostearate, sorbitan, PEG-(6)-isostearate sorbitan, PEG-(10)-sorbitan laurate, PEG-17-dioleate sorbitan, glucose derivatives, C8-C22 alkyl-mono and oligo-glycosides and ethoxylated analogues with glucose being preferred as the sugar component, O/W emulsifiers such as methyl gluceth-20 sesquistearate, sorbitan stearate/sucrose cocoate, methyl glucose sesquistearate, cetearyl alcohol/cetearyl glucoside, W/O emulsifiers such as methyl glucose dioleate/methyl glucose isostearate. Sulfates and sulfonated derivatives, dialkylsulfosuccinates, dioctyl succinate, alkyl lauryl sulfonate, linear sulfonated parafins, sulfonated tetraproplyne sulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfates, amonium and ethanolamine lauryl sulfates, lauryl ether sulfates, sodium laureth sulfates [Texapon N70] or sodium myreth sulfates [Texapon K14S], sulfosuccinates, aceyl isothionates, alkanolamide sulfates, taurines, methyl taurines, imidazole sulfates, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants that carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and/or sulfonate group in the molecule, zwitterionic surfactants that are especially suitable are betaines, such as N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylamino-propyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines each having from 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and also cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate, N-alkylbetaine, N-alkylaminobetaines.
Examples of suitable mild surfactants as dispersing agents, that is to say surfactants especially well tolerated by the skin, include fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, mono- and/or di-alkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, a-olefin sulfonates, ethercarboxylic acids, alkyl oligoglucosides, fatty acid glucamides, alkylamidobetaines and/or protein fatty acid condensation products, the latter preferably being based on wheat proteins.
Non ionic surfactants such as PEG-6 beeswax (and) PEG-6 stearate (and) polyglyceryl—2-isostearate [Apifac], glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate. [Arlacel 165], PEG-5 glyceryl stearate [arlatone 983 S], sorbitan oleate (and) polyglyceryl-3 ricinoleate.[Arlacel 1689], sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate [arlatone 2121], glyceryl stearate and laureth-23 [Cerasynth 945], cetearyl alcohol and ceteth-20 [Cetomacrogol Wax], cetearyl alcohol and colysorbate 60 and PEG-150 and stearate-20[Polawax GP 200, Polawax NF], cetearyl alcohol and cetearyl polyglucoside [Emulgade PL 1618], cetearyl alcohol and ceteareth-20 [Emulgade 1000NI, Cosmowax], cetearyl alcohol and PEG-40 castor oil [Emulgade F Special], cetearyl alcohol and PEG-40 castor oil and sodium cetearyl sulfate [Emulgade F], stearyl alcohol and steareth-7 and steareth-10 [Emulgator E 2155], cetearyl alcohol and szeareth-7 and steareth-10 [Emulsifying wax U.S.N.F], glyceryl stearate and PEG-75 stearate [Gelot 64], propylene glycol ceteth-3 acetate .[Hetester PCS], propylene glycol isoceth-3 acetate [Hetester PHA], cetearyl alcohol and ceteth-12 and oleth-12 [Lanbritol Wax N 21], PEG-6 stearate and PEG-32 stearate [Tefose 1500], PEG-6 stearate and ceteth-20 and steareth-20 [Tefose 2000], PEG-6 stearate and ceteth-20 and glyceryl stearate and steareth-20 [Tefose 2561], glyceryl stearate and ceteareth-20 [Teginacid H, C, X].
Anionic emulsifiers such as PEG-2 stearate SE, glyceryl stearate SE [Monelgine, Cutina KD], propylene glycol stearate [Tegin P], cetearyl Alcohol and Sodium cetearyl sulfate [Lanette N, Cutina LE, Crodacol GP], cetearyl alcohol and sodium lauryl sulfate [Lanette W], trilaneth-4 phopshate and glycol stearate and PEG-2 stearate [Sedefos 75], glyceryl stearate and sodium lauryl Sulfate [Teginacid Special]. Cationic acid bases such as cetearyl alcohol and cetrimonium bromide.
Most preferred dispersing agents are sodium alkyl sulfates or sodium alkyl ether sulfates, such as sodium laureth sulfate [Texapon N70 from Cognis] or sodium myreth sulfate [Texapon K14 S from Cognis].
Useful solvents are water, brine, (poly-)ethylene glycol, glycerol or cosmetically acceptable oils. Other useful solvents are disclosed below in the sections entitled “Esters of fatty acids”, “Natural and synthetic triglycerides, including glyceryl esters and derivatives”, “Pearlescent waxes”, “Hydrocarbon oils” and “Silicones or siloxanes”.
The micronised particulate organic compounds so obtained usually have an average particle size from 0.02 to 2 micrometres, preferably from 0.03 to 1.5 micrometres and more especially from 0.05 to 1.0 micrometres.
The aqueous dispersion comprising a micronized UV absorber used in the present invention generally comprises
30-60, preferably 35 to 55 parts of the sparingly soluble organic micronized substance;
2-20, preferably 3 to 10 parts of the dispersing agent;
0.1-1 part, preferably 0.1 to 0.5 parts of a thickening agent (for example xanthan gum); and
20-67.9 parts of water;
The cosmetic formulations or pharmaceutical compositions according to the present invention can also comprise one or more than one further UV filter which are different from the particulate organic UV-filters (b1); and the soluble organic UV filters (b2) as listed in Table 1:
The cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations can be prepared by physically mixing the UV absorber(s) with the adjuvant using customary methods, for example by simply stirring together the individual components, especially by making use of the dissolution properties of already known cosmetic UV absorbers, like octyl methoxy cinnamate, salicylic acid isooctyl ester, etc.
The cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations may be, for example, creams, gels, lotions, alcoholic and aqueous/alcoholic solutions, emulsions, wax/fat compositions, stick preparations, powders or ointments. In addition to the above mentioned UV filters, the cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations may contain further adjuvants as described below.
As water- and oil-containing emulsions (e.g. W/O, O/W, O/W/O and W/O/W emulsions or microemulsions) the preparations contain, for example, from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight and especially from 0.5 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of one or more UV absorbers, from 1 to 60% by weight, especially from 5 to 50% by weight and preferably from 10 to 35% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one oil component, from 0 to 30% by weight, especially from 1 to 30% by weight and preferably from 4 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one emulsifier, from 10 to 90% by weight, especially from 30 to 90% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of water, and from 0 to 88.9% by weight, especially from 1 to 50% by weight, of further cosmetically acceptable adjuvants.
The cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions/preparations according to the invention may also contain one or one more additional compounds as like fatty alcohols, esters of fatty acids, natural or synthetic triglycerides including glyceryl esters and derivatives, pearlescent waxes, hydrocarbon oils, silicones or siloxanes (organosubstituted polysiloxanes), fluorinated or perfluorinated oils, emulsifiers, djuvants and additives, super-fatting agents, surfactants, consistency regulators/thickeners and rheology modifiers, polymers, biogenic active ingredients, deodorising active ingredients, anti-dandruff agents, antioxidants, hydrotropic agents, preservatives, bacteria-inhibiting agents, perfume oils, colourants, polymeric beads or hollow spheres as SPF enhancers.
Cosmetic or Pharmaceutical Preparations
Cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulations are contained in a wide variety of cosmetic preparations. There come into consideration, for example, especially the following preparations: skin-care preparations, bath preparations, cosmetic personal care preparations, foot-care preparations, light-protective preparations, skin-tanning preparations, depigmenting preparations, insect-repellents, deodorants, antiperspirants, preparations for cleansing and caring for blemished skin, hair-removal preparations in chemical form (depilation), shaving preparations, fragrance preparations, cosmetic hair-treatment preparations,
Presentation Forms
The final formulations listed may exist in a wide variety of presentation forms, for example:
Of special importance as cosmetic preparations for the skin are light-protective preparations, such as sun milks, lotions, creams, oils, sunblocks or tropicals, pretanning preparations or after-sun preparations, also skin-tanning preparations, for example self-tanning creams. Of particular interest are sun protection creams, sun protection lotions, sun protection milk and sun protection preparations in the form of a spray.
Of special importance as cosmetic preparations for the hair are the above-mentioned preparations for hair treatment, especially hair-washing preparations in the form of shampoos, hair conditioners, hair-care preparations, e.g. pretreatment preparations, hair tonics, styling creams, styling gels, pomades, hair rinses, treatment packs, intensive hair treatments, hair-straightening preparations, liquid hair-setting preparations, hair foams and hairsprays. Of special interest are hair-washing preparations in the form of shampoos.
Other typical ingredients in such formulations are preservatives, bactericides and bacteriostatic agents, perfumes, dyes, pigments, thickening agents, moisturizing agents, humectants, fats, oils, waxes or other typical ingredients of cosmetic and personal care formulations such as alcohols, poly-alcohols, polymers, electrolytes, organic solvents, silicon derivatives, emollients, emulsifiers or emulsifying surfactants, surfactants, dispersing agents, antioxidants, anti-irritants and anti-inflammatory agents etc.
Preferably the particulates (a) are used which can easily be removed from textiles in customary laundering processes.
Other embodiments of the present invention are the use of the cosmetic formulation according to the present invention
The composition is used for preventing the damaging effect of UVA and blue light and provides an optimal protection against UVA-induced photoaging of human skin also in conjunction with excessive exposure to longer wave-length light and IR The cosmetic compositions according to the present invention may also be used for preventing and treating undesired skin pigmentation; preventing and treating photoaging of human skin; inhibiting the degradation or condensations of endogenous vitamins, antioxidants and cellular modulators such as carotenoids, flavonoids or unsaturated lipids present in the skin; treating skin disorders caused by sunlight such as pigment spots, actinic keratosis and actinic dermatitis and solar urticaria; protecting against UVA1-induced expression of matrix-degrading enzymes such as metallo-proteinases or elastases, e.g. metallo-proteinase-1 or neutrophil elastase or of cytokines such as interleukin-1 or interleukin-6; preventing the generation of reactive oxygen species such as by photosensitizing molecules, via UV-induced inflammatory reactions or via impaiment of mitochondria function; protecting UV-A-sensitive pharmaceuticals and cosmetics.
The compositions according to the present invention may constitute a skin care product, in particular for the face, neck, contours of the eye or the body, or a skin makeup product such as a tinting product, an eye shadow, a blusher, an eyeliner, a concealer, a body makeup product, a daily care product, a sun protection product or a skin cleansing product.
The cosmetic preparation according to the invention is distinguished by excellent protection of human skin against the damaging effect of sunlight.
Preparation of Sunscreen Formulation
Examples 1, 2 and 4 show advantage over Examples 3 and 5 which do not contain color pigments.
Manufacturing Process:
Heat up part A and B to 75° C.
Add Amphisol K into B and stirr for 5 more minutes, then Add part B2.
Add part A into part B, then homogenize with an Ultra Turrax for 1 min pos 21200 g
Add part C by 60° C., and turrax again
Add part D below 50° C.
B. Application Examples
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| 07123286.2 | Dec 2007 | EP | regional |
| 08155725.8 | May 2008 | EP | regional |
| Number | Date | Country | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Parent | 12746186 | Sep 2010 | US |
| Child | 15586818 | US |
