Surfactant Preparation Having Reduced Enzyme Damaging

Abstract
A method of protecting skin enzymes from the harmful effects of a cosmetic cleansing preparation which comprises water and one or more anionic surfactants. The method comprises using a cleansing preparation which has a pH value of from 4 to 7 and an SCTE (Stratum Comeum Tryptic Enzyme) value, determined following application of the preparation to human skin and standardized to a value of 100 for tap water, of from 65 to 95. The preparation comprises (i) one or more acyl-/dialkylethylenediamines which reduce the CMC of the one or more anionic surfactants and (ii) a buffer system of citric acid and citrate ions.
Description
EXAMPLES

1) Determination ex vivo of the Effect of Surfactants on the Trypsin Activity in the Human Epidermis


For standardizing the skin of the test subjects, the subjects were requested to use only a mild (with 3-10% myrystyl sulfate instead of lauryl ether sulfate) when washing for two weeks. After this preconditioning, the forearms were in each case divided into two test areas. The test areas were treated for three days in succession in each case 3 times daily with 1 ml of washing product (examples 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6) or a tap water control for 45 s per area. After the treatment, the test area was rinsed off with tap water for 30 s and dried using a disposable paper towel. On the 1st and 2nd day, the areas were treated three times (morning, midday and afternoon), on the 3rd day they were treated twice (morning and midday). Up to three washing products were tested against one another and against water.


2) Extraction of the Skin Biopsy and Measurement of the SCTE Activity


On the 4th day, SC samples were stripped from the areas by means of a microscope slide coated with sugar solution. Later on, the corneocytes were detached from the microscope slide with PBS buffer and the specific SCTE activity was determined.


3) Stratum Corneum Tryptic Enzyme (SCTE) Activity Assay


100 μl of human skin extract were incubated for 24 h with 150 μl of N-t-BOC-Phe-Ser-Arg-7-amido-4-methylcoumarin (33 μM in PBS; Sigma, St Louis, USA) at 37° C. The SCTE-specific release of fluorescent 7-amino-4-methylcoumarin was ascertained using a fluorescence plate reader (filter ex=360 nm+40, em=460 nm+40 nm, CytoFluor 4000, PerSeptive Biosystems, Framingham, USA).


4) Measurement of the Protein Concentration


In order to calculate the specific trypsin activity of the extracts, the protein content was determined by means of the ninhydrin method following alkaline hydrolysis. The corneocyte solutions were evaporated to dryness and the proteins were hydrolyzed for 5 h at 150° C. with 2 ml of sodium hydroxide solution (6M). The solution was neutralized with 2 ml of hydrochloric acid (6M) and 1 ml of sodium propionic acid buffer (3.35 M, pH 5.5) was added. 50 μl of the lysate were then diluted with 450 μl of double-distilled water and incubated for 20 min at 70° C. with 25 μl of formic acid (0.4% (v/v)) and 500 μl of ninhydrin solution (2% (w/v) ninhydrin in 3.35 M sodium propionic acid buffer with 50% (v/v) ethylene glycol monomethyl ether (Sigma, St Louis, USA)). After cooling, 5 ml of ethanol (50% (v/v) in double-distilled water) were added. The absorption was measured at a wavelength of 570 nm using a spectrophotometer (UVICON 942, Kontron, Milan, Italy) and the corresponding protein concentration was calculated.


5) Shower Gels





















1
2
3
4
5
6
Control























Sodium laureth sulfate

  2%

  8%
 10%
 12%
 10%


Sodium myreth sulfate
  5%
  4%
  6%






Lauryl glucoside
2.5%




1.5%



Decyl glucoside
2.0%


0.5%





Sodium cocoamphoacetate
6.5%
  7%
  8%
  6%
  4%
  2%



PEG-200 hydrogenated
0.4%
0.4%
0.4%
0.4%
0.4%
0.4%
0.4%


glyceryl palmitate


PEG-40 hydrogenated castor
  1%
  1%
  1%
  1%
  1%
  1%
  1%


oil


Diammonium citrate
0.12% 
0.12% 
0.12% 

0.12% 

0.12% 


Polyquaternium-10
0.3%


0.1%
0.2%

0.2%


Sodium benzoate
0.3%
0.3%
0.3%
0.3%
0.3%
0.3%
0.3%


Sodium salicylate
0.2%
0.2%
0.2%
0.2%
0.2%
0.2%
0.2%


Citric acid
1.2%
1.2%
1.2%
q.s.
1.2%
q.s.
1.2%


Perfume
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.

q.s.


Water
ad 100
ad 100
ad 100
ad 100
ad 100
ad 100
ad 100


pH
4.8
5.0
5.0
5.6
5.3
6.5
5.3


SCTE value standardized to

73  
82  

70  

55  


tap water = 100








Claims
  • 1. The use of acyl-/dialkylethylenediamines, particularly preferably cocoamphoacetates in cosmetic cleansing preparations which comprise water and anionic surfactants for skin enzyme protection, characterized in that the cleansing preparation has an SCTE value, which is standardized to tap water and measured after its application to the human skin, of from 65 to 95 and the acyl-/dialkylethylenediamine(s) reduce/reduces the CMC of the respective anionic surfactant, and a buffer system of citric acid and citrate ions is present and the pH of the preparation is adjusted to 4 to 7.
  • 2. The use as claimed in one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the anionic surfactant(s) is/are chosen from the group of alkyl ether sulfates.
  • 3. The use as claimed in one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the concentration of anionic surfactants is 5 to 15% by weight.
  • 4. The use as claimed in one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the concentration of acyl-/dialkylethylenediamines A is 0.5 to 8% by weight.
  • 5. A cosmetic cleansing preparation comprising 1 to 9% by weight of acyl-/dialkyl-ethylenediamines, particularly preferably cocoamphoacetates, water and anionic surfactants, characterized by an SCTE value, standardized to tap water and measured following its application to the human skin, of from 65 to 95 where and the acyl-/dialkylethylenediamine(s) reduce/reduces the CMC of the respective anionic surfactant, and a buffer system of citric acid and citrate ions is present and the pH of the preparation is adjusted to 4 to 7.
  • 6. The preparation as claimed in claim 5, characterized in that 0.8 to 1.2% by weight of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil are present.
  • 7. The preparation as claimed in claim 5 to 6, characterized in that 0.3 to 0.5% by weight of PEG-200 hydrogenated glyceryl palmitate are present.
  • 8. The preparation or the use as claimed in one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the ratio of anionic surfactant to acyl-/dialkylethylenediamines is 4/8 to 7.
  • 1-8. (canceled)
  • 9. A method of protecting skin enzymes from the harmful effects of a cosmetic cleansing preparation which comprises water and one or more anionic surfactants, wherein the method comprises using a cleansing preparation which has a pH value of from 4 to 7 and an SCTE (Stratum Comeum Tryptic Enzyme) value, determined following application of the preparation to human skin and standardized to a value of 100 for tap water, of from 65 to 95, the preparation comprising (i) one or more acyl-/dialkylethylenediamines which reduce a CMC of the one or more anionic surfactants and (ii) a buffer system of citric acid and citrate ions.
  • 10. The method of claim 9, wherein the one or more acyl-/dialkylethylenediamines comprise one or more cocoamphoacetates.
  • 11. The method of claim 9, wherein the one or more anionic surfactants comprise one or more alkyl ether sulfates.
  • 12. The method of claim 9, wherein the preparation comprises from 5% to 15% by weight of the one or more anionic surfactants.
  • 13. The method of claim 9, wherein the preparation comprises from 0.5% to 8% by weight of the one or more acyl-/dialkylethylenediamines.
  • 14. A cosmetic cleansing preparation, wherein the preparation comprises water, one or more anionic surfactants, from 1% to 9% by weight of one or more acyl-/dialkylethylenediamines which reduce a CMC of the one or more anionic surfactants, and a buffer system of citric acid and citrate anions and wherein the preparation has a pH value of from 4 to 7 and an SCTE (Stratum Comeum Tryptic Enzyme) value, determined following application of the preparation to human skin and standardized to a value of 100 for tap water, of from 65 to 95.
  • 15. The preparation of claim 14, wherein the one or more acyl-/dialkylethylenediamines comprise one or more cocoamphoacetates.
  • 16. The preparation of claim 14, wherein the one or more anionic surfactants comprise one or more alkyl ether sulfates.
  • 17. The preparation of claim 14, wherein the preparation comprises from 5% to 15% by weight of the one or more anionic surfactants.
  • 18. The preparation of claim 14, wherein a ratio of the one or more anionic surfactants to the one or more acyl-/dialkylethylenediamines is from 4/8 to 7.
  • 19. The preparation of claim 14, wherein the preparation further comprises at least one of from 0.8% to 1.2% by weight of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil and from 0.3% to 0.5% by weight of PEG-200 hydrogenated glyceryl palmitate.
  • 20. The preparation of claim 14, wherein the preparation further comprises at least one of decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside and lauryl citrate sulfosuccinate.
  • 21. The preparation of claim 14, wherein the preparation further comprises one or more hydrocolloids.
  • 22. The preparation of claim 14, wherein the preparation further comprises one or more complexing agents.
  • 23. A cosmetic cleansing preparation, wherein the preparation comprises water, from 5% to 15% by weight of one or more anionic surfactants which comprise one or more alkyl ether sulfates, from 1% to 8% by weight of one or more cocoamphoacetates which reduce a CMC of the one or more anionic surfactants, and a buffer system of citric acid and citrate anions and wherein the preparation has a pH value of from 4 to 7 and an SCTE (Stratum Comeum Tryptic Enzyme) value, determined following application of the preparation to human skin and standardized to a value of 100 for tap water, of from 65 to 95.
  • 24. The preparation of claim 23, wherein a ratio of the one or more anionic surfactants to the one or more cocoamphoacetates is from 4/8 to 7.
  • 25. The preparation of claim 23, wherein the preparation further comprises at least one of from 0.8% to 1.2% by weight of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil and from 0.3% to 0.5% by weight of PEG-200 hydrogenated glyceryl palmitate.
  • 26. The preparation of claim 23, wherein the preparation further comprises at least one of decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside and lauryl citrate sulfosuccinate.
  • 27. The preparation of claim 23, wherein the preparation further comprises from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight of one or more hydrocolloids.
  • 28. The preparation of claim 23, wherein the preparation further comprises one or more complexing agents.
PCT Information
Filing Document Filing Date Country Kind 371c Date
PCT/EP05/51392 3/24/2005 WO 00 5/14/2007