Patent Application
20120156962
The invention relates to a system and method for garment fitting and fabrication.
Foundation garments and swimwear require close accommodation to the body. Foundation garments are undergarments designed to temporarily alter the wearer's body shape by supporting, stabilizing or contouring body parts to enhance the figure or to alleviate medical problems. Typical foundation garments include for example, brassieres, girdles, corsets, corselets, bodysuits, body briefers, control underwear, and control panel nylons.
The female breast is a modified subcutaneous gland located on the anterior chest wall within the superficial fascia, with the deep layer of the fascia marking the breast's posterior boundary and the superficial portion of the fascia marking the anterior boundary. The breast is composed of the skin, subcutaneous tissue, and the corpus mammae (i.e., ducts, lobules, areolar structures, connective tissue, lymphatics, fat, blood vessels and nerves). Breast support is dependent upon the skin and weak suspensory ligaments (Cooper's ligaments) which are attached to the deep fascia overlying the pectoralis muscles. Due to limited intrinsic support, the breast is easily displaced during activity and may cause breast pain, particularly during exercise (Scurr et al., 2009; White et al., 2009; Bridgman et al., 2008; McGhee et al., 2007; Mason et al., 1999). Without proper support, the ligaments and skin may stretch, leading to breast sag or ptosis. Repeated loading leads to ligament creep and permanent stretching of the supporting structures of the breast. As gravity pulls down the breasts, the throat and face tissue are also pulled downwardly.
Research on breast biomechanics indicates that proper breast support may be an effective form of treatment for breast pain, prevention of ptosis, and avoidance of breast reductions in women having macromastia. Bras provide support and contour to the breasts; however, poorly fitted bras may cause discomfort, mastalgia, muscle tension, neck and back pain, headaches, fatigue, upper limb neural symptoms, abrasions, furrows caused by bra straps, poor posture, impaired circulation, shoulder strain, and breathing problems (Chen et al., 2010; McGhee et al., 2006; Bowles et al., 2005). It has been estimated that 70% of women wear incorrectly sized or poorly fitted bras (Wood et al., 2008).
Attempts have been made to improve the structure of bras to enhance breast support, as disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 2,406,699 to Lustig; U.S. Pat. No. 5,215,494 to Flanagan; U.S. Pat. No. 5,603,653 to Hartman; U.S. Pat. No. 5,908,346 to McCall; U.S. Pat. No. 7,607,966 to Fox; EP Patent Application No. 1,179,301 to Yoshihara; GB Patent Specification No. 139,725 to Barbu; and International Publication No. WO 2010/001136 to Morgan and Powell Vreeswiijk.
Girdles are commonly worn to support or mold the waist, stomach, hips, buttocks and thighs, to improve posture, and to provide pregnant women with back support. Girdles are commonly formed of materials having elasticity or stretch (Ibrahim, 1968). However, proper fitting of a girdle tends to be difficult since a girdle spans rounded areas of the body such as the stomach, hips and buttocks. Overly large girdles may fail to provide the required support, gape or bulge at the seams, or ride up and down the body, creating unflattering wrinkles under clothing. Girdles which are too small may constrict the body, impede breathing or circulation, dig into the flesh, and cause excess skin or fat to roll over the edges of the girdle. As with bras, women tend to select the wrong girdle size or have difficulty finding a properly fitting girdle which permits sitting, moving, and breathing without discomfort.
Improved girdles or lower body garments are disclosed for example, in U.S. Pat. No. 2,863,152 to Blatt; U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,775,767 and 3,261,359 to Gould; U.S. Pat. No. 3,339,554 to Nobbs; U.S. Pat. Nos. 6,991,611 and 7,578,798 to Rhee; GB Patent Application No. 2,273,646 to Kumai et al.; and International Publication No. WO 99/53783 to Balit.
Numerous methods have been developed to measure the human body to improve garment fit including, for example, linear methods including a tape measure, direct measure, proportional measure, anthropometer, calipers; multiple probe methods including complex anthropometer, somatography, minott method, planar method, CLAM, photography; body form methods including draping, casting, and body scans using lasers, millimeter waves, and structured light; and systems using data collection, data analysis, and/or data output, as disclosed by Loker and Ashdown, 2008; Bye et al., 2006; and Lee et al., 2004; and in U.S. Pat. No. 6,101,424 to Sawada; U.S. Pat. No. 7,164,962 to Petterson; US Patent Application Publication No. 2009/0215359 to Chapman et al.
Various types of garments or devices have been developed to obtain body measurements when fitted onto the body, as disclosed in U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,180,180 and 2,283,108 to Versoy; U.S. Pat. No. 337,273 to Grinager and Ongley; U.S. Pat. No. 2,858,832 to Loeffel et al.; U.S. Pat. No. 4,868,990 to Steinberg; U.S. Pat. No. 6,276,069 to Chadwick et al.; U.S. Pat. No. 6,751,877 to Grove; GB Patent Specification No. 1,468,762 and GB Patent Application No. 2,201,579 to Sutherland; GB Patent Application No. 2,355,385 and GB Patent No. 2,371,207 to Nabarro.
Methods using a series of “try-on” apparels of predetermined dimensions are disclosed in U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,548,519 and 5,768,135 to Park et al.; U.S. Pat. No. 6,336,839 to Valli; and U.S. Pat. No. 7,058,471 to Watanabe.
Several ISO standards relate to size designation of clothes including foundation garments (ISO 3635, ISO 4416, and ISO/TR 10652). These standard sizes describe combinations of body measurements that are commonly seen in the general population. Many women do not fall within these standard sizes if they have irregular proportions or belong to a demographic profile where women are generally smaller (for example, Asia; Zheng et al., 2007). As women age, their anatomical or physiological changes affect clothing fit (Ashdown and Na, 2008). Since there are many variations in women's figures and proportions, providing satisfactory fit with foundation garments such as bras and girdles and swimwear remains challenging for manufacturers and retailers.
Most foundation garments and swimwear are designed for the mass market in large quantities and standard sizes. At the onset, designers provide sketches of garments to pattern makers to create rough sample garments. Patterns can be formed by 2-D processes including flat, drafting and reverse engineering methods (Shin, 2007). In the flat method, a pattern is generated from an existing foundation pattern known as a block from which garment styles can be created. The pattern maker creates a new style by adding design details. In the drafting method, patterns are drawn directly onto paper using collected measurements taken from a pre-existing garment, an individual or a body form. In the reverse engineering process, patterns are made from an existing garment which is taken apart to generate pattern pieces.
Patterns can also be formed by 3-D processes including draping, wherein a garment is produced by applying inexpensive fabric such as muslin directly onto a 3-D form. The muslin is adjusted while on the 3-D form and details of the drape are marked (e.g., any darts, seams, gathers, tucks to remove or control buckling fabric). The drape is transferred to pattern paper to be traced. The 2-D pattern pieces are used to generate the sample garment. However, this method has its disadvantages since the body form may not necessarily represent real body proportions, and muslin may not share the characteristics of the specific fabric that will be used to make the final garment. Further, errors are introduced as garment details are translated from 3-D to 2-D and back to 3-D (Heisey et al., 1988). The method also does not consider personal preferences for loose or tight fitting clothing. The fit of the sample garments is confirmed by using mannequins or models. Several iterations of sample garments are required before the final garment is approved for mass manufacture. Following alterations and approval of the final stock fit, the factories begin production.
Custom-made foundation garments and swimwear are made according to the specifications of the wearer, but their creation is often expensive and time-consuming, requiring the wearer to make multiple appointments for detailed measuring, fitting and alterations.
There is thus a need in the art for methods for facilitating the fitting and preparation of foundation garments and swimwear.
The present invention relates to a system and method for garment fitting and fabrication.
In one aspect, the invention comprises a system for manufacturing a garment for a wearer comprising a fabric template and a plurality of fabric pieces attachable to the template to form the garment.
In one embodiment, the fabric template comprises a plurality of bands which are interconnected and arranged to form a foundation, a lower lift section, and an upper lift section.
In one embodiment, the foundation comprises a bandeau. In one embodiment, the bandeau section comprises a breast-covering part, upper and lower edges, ends, and adjustable fastening means. In one embodiment, the bandeau is formed of an elasticized or resilient form-fitting material.
In one embodiment, the foundation further comprises a suspender section, a girdle section, and a corset section.
In one embodiment, the suspender section comprises bands connecting the bandeau to the girdle section in a criss-cross pattern overlying the wearer's back.
In one embodiment, the girdle section comprises bands traversing in a criss-cross pattern overlying the wearer's front pelvic region, and extending underneath the wearer's buttocks and upwardly from between the wearer's thighs to converge with the suspender section, and bands at the top of the criss-cross pattern converging at the back of the wearer's waist.
In one embodiment, the corset section comprises a lower edge of the bandeau, the suspender section, and bands of the girdle section which criss-cross over the front pelvic region and converge at the back of the wearer's waist.
In one embodiment, the lower lift section comprises bands traversing in a criss-cross pattern overlying the wearer's upper back, and extending downwardly over the wearer's shoulders along the sides of the wearer's breasts to align substantially horizontally below the wearer's breasts.
In one embodiment, the upper lift section comprises bands encircling the wearer's arms and traversing in a criss-cross pattern over the wearer's sternum to isolate each of the wearer's breasts, and to extend over lower portions of the wearer's breasts.
In one embodiment, the garment is a brassiere, a top, a swimsuit, sportswear, a supporting garment, a body-shaping garment, or a medical garment.
In another aspect, the invention comprises a method for preparing a garment for a wearer comprising the steps of:
In one embodiment, before step (b), a bandeau conforming substantially to the torso of the wearer is fitted. In one embodiment, after step (b), the fabric pieces are adjusted to fit the wearer. In one embodiment, the method further comprises pinning the fabric pieces together. In one embodiment, the garment is a brassiere, a top, a swimsuit, sportswear, a supporting garment, a body-shaping garment, or a medical garment. In one embodiment, the garment is prepared within about four hours.
In another aspect, the invention comprises a method for treating or preventing disorders associated with insufficient breast support comprising clothing a subject in a garment manufactured using the above system.
In one embodiment, the disorders are selected from ptosis, mastalgia, macromastia, maceration, intertrigo, muscle tension, neck pain, back pain, headaches, fatigue, upper limb neural symptoms, abrasions, poor posture, impaired circulation, shoulder strain, or breathing problems.
In yet another aspect, the invention comprises a kit for preparing a garment for a wearer comprising a plurality of pre-fabricated fabric pieces in a variety of sizes, styles, and fabrics, each of the fabric pieces being structured to correspond to respective portions of the above fabric template, and instructions for using the fabric pieces to prepare the garment.
Additional aspects and advantages of the present invention will be apparent in view of the description, which follows. It should be understood, however, that the detailed description and the specific examples, while indicating preferred embodiments of the invention, are given by way of illustration only, since various changes and modifications within the spirit and scope of the invention will become apparent to those skilled in the art from this detailed description.
The invention will now be described by way of an exemplary embodiment with reference to the accompanying simplified, diagrammatic, not-to-scale drawings:
The present invention relates to a system and method for garment fitting and fabrication.
When describing the present invention, all terms not defined herein have their common art-recognized meanings. To the extent that the following description is of a specific embodiment or a particular use of the invention, it is intended to be illustrative only, and not limiting of the claimed invention. The following description is intended to cover all alternatives, modifications and equivalents that are included in the spirit and scope of the invention, as defined in the appended claims.
The present invention relates to a system and method for garment fitting and fabrication.
In one embodiment, the invention comprises a system for manufacturing a garment for a wearer comprising a fabric template and a plurality of fabric pieces attachable to the template to form the garment. As used herein, the term “wearer” means a female or male adult or child.
In one embodiment, the foundation (12) comprises a bandeau (18). As used herein, the term “bandeau” means a band-shaped covering for the breasts. The bandeau (18) is a strapless top having sufficient circumference and width to circumnavigate the wearer's torso and to cover the breasts, respectively. The bandeau (18) comprises a breast-covering part (20), upper and lower edges (22, 24), ends (26a, 26b), and adjustable fastening means (28a, 28b, 28c). The breast-covering part (20) has a criss-cross shape to enable centering of the bandeau (18) on the sternum of the wearer's body.
The bandeau (18) is formed of an elasticized or resilient form-fitting material to encircle the wearer's torso snugly, yet comfortably, and to impart sufficient compression to stabilize and shape the breasts. Suitable materials include, but are not limited to, nylon, spandex, darlex, Lycra™, jersey, cotton, polyurethane, neoprene, elastomer and the like. The material may be a breathable fabric. The bandeau (18) may be in the form of a circular knit-type sock made in different circumferences and which can be adjusted to the depth of the breasts when placed on the body. A material which is shaped by heat or pressure, and retains its shape upon removal from the body may also be used.
The upper edge (22) of the bandeau (18) rests over the top of the breasts against the chest to compress the breasts downward to limit any upward movement of the breasts. In one embodiment, the upper edge (22) of the bandeau (18) extends under the arm and across the back in a horizontal line to connect with itself at the center back. This configuration applies to garments requiring only upper body support such as, for example, brassieres or tops. In one embodiment, the upper edge (22) of the bandeau (18) extends to form the suspender section (30) as described below. This configuration applies to garments requiring both upper and lower body support such as, for example, foundation garments.
The lower edge (24) of the bandeau (18) is positioned at the inframammary fold to support the breasts in a raised position. It will be recognized by those skilled in the art that the underbust band of a bra generally sits at the inframammary fold and holds the breast in a pert position with the breast lifted away from the chest wall; however, after hours of wear, the band crushes or rolls over or under the ptosis. To prevent this problem, the lower edge (24) preferably supports the breast in a pseudo-ptosis state at about 1 to 2 cm above the inframammary fold. The lower edge (24) traverses the wearer's back horizontally.
The ends (26a, 26b) of the bandeau (18) may meet at either the wearer's front or back, or both.
In one embodiment, the foundation (12) comprises in addition to the bandeau (18), a suspender section (30), a girdle section (32), and a corset section (34). The suspender section (30) serves as “a suspension bridge” between the wearer's thorax and pelvis. The suspender section (30) comprises bands connecting the bandeau (18) to the girdle section (32) in a criss-cross pattern overlying the wearer's back. As shown in
The girdle section (32) supports and holds in the wearer's lower abdominal wall. The girdle section (32) comprises bands which traverse in a criss-cross pattern overlying the wearer's front pelvic region. The bands then extend underneath the wearer's buttocks and upwardly from between the wearer's thighs to converge with the suspender section (30). As used herein, the term “converge” means to merge or to join at a shared point. At the top of the criss-cross pattern, the bands converging at the back of the wearer's waist. As shown in
The corset section (34) supports and holds in the wearer's body from below the chest to the hips. As shown in
Folds of the skin (for example, the armpits, under the breasts, belly, buttocks, groin, and the area between the fingers or toes) may be prone to intertrigo which can be worsened by any conditions causing increased heat, wetness, and friction, and may be complicated by superficial skin infection with yeast or bacteria. The corset section (34) creates a chest wall ptosis barrier which pockets the breasts, minimizes bounce so as to prevent mastalgia, and wicks moisture to treat or prevent maceration and intertrigo. The chest wall ptosis barrier forms the inner barrier between the chest wall and the ptosis portion of the breast to which the lower lift and upper lift sections (14, 16) attach, creating a pocket within the cradle of the lift to hold the pendulous portion of the breast at an appropriate location for the breast to move outwardly from the chest wall. The location depends on the weight and circumference of the breast mass. In women having macromastia, the location would be at the fourth or fifth rib. This three point connection is designated as “the lift line” (
The lower lift section (14) supports the pendulous portion of the breasts. As shown in
The upper lift section (16) helps to raise the breasts by supporting the lower portions of the breasts. As shown in
The lower lift and upper lift sections (14, 16) together provide secure positioning of the breast to the chest wall to minimize movement during high impact activities such as exercise. A center frontline supporting triangle may be formed by a fabric piece attached at the intersection of the lower lift and upper lift sections (14, 16). A chest supporting triangle may be formed by a fabric piece attached at the intersection of the upper edge (22) of the bandeau (18), and the lower lift and upper lift sections (14, 16).
The bands of the foundation (12), lower lift section (14), upper lift section (16), suspender section (30), girdle section (32), and corset section (34) interconnect at various points within the fabric template (10). Connection points are indicated by asterisks in
The width of the bands for the suspender, girdle and corset sections (30, 32, 34) can be at least two inches or more, although other widths can be used. The bands are formed of a material having sufficient elasticity including, but not limited to, nylon, spandex, darlex, Lycra™, jersey, cotton, polyurethane, neoprene, elastomer and the like.
The fabric template (10) aids garment fitting and fabrication since it indicates the structure and position for individual fabric pieces. The fabric template (10) functions as a frame which defines spaces and shapes for which corresponding fabric pieces are structured. The fabric pieces are selectively attached to provide additional support, to lift and shape the wearer's body, and to yield the desired garment. As used herein, the term “fabric” means any cloth made from yarn or fibres by weaving, knitting, felting, etc. The fabric may be an elastic/stretch fabric including, but not limited to, nylon, spandex, darlex, Lycra™, jersey, cotton, polyurethane, neoprene, elastomer and the like. The fabric may include moisture-absorbing or wicking fibres or yarns capable of wicking or drawing moisture away from the skin. Wicking can be solely due to capillary action, as in the case of polyester or it may be a form of absorbency, as with cotton. Wicking may also be due to hydrophilic properties. The fabric may include fibres or yarns coated with anti-microbial metals selected from Ag, Au, Pt, Pd, Ir, Sn, Cu, Sb, Bi, Zn, and alloys or compounds of one or more of these metals.
As shown in
It will be understood that many different types of garments can be prepared by attaching fabric pieces to the fabric template (10) of the present invention. As used herein, the term “garment” refers to apparel which covers the upper body region including the breasts, or lower body region including the waist, stomach, hips, buttocks and thighs. In one embodiment, the garment is a brassiere, top, swimsuit, sportswear, or a medical garment. As used herein, the term “brassiere” or “bra” means a structure which conceals, supports and elevates the bust of the wearer. As used herein, the term “top” means garments which cover the upper body or torso, and include a bottom hem at one end, and a neckline at the other end. Examples of tops include camisoles, blouses, halter tops, shirts, tank tops, tube tops, t-shirts, polo shirts, sports jerseys, and golf shirts. As used herein, the term “swimsuit” for women means either a two-piece bra and panty ensemble or a one-piece maillot style. As used herein, the term “sportswear” means active wear garments designed for comfort and casual wear including, for example, swimsuits, wetsuits, leotards, bodysuits, salopettes, cycling suits, and tracksuits. As used herein, the term “medical garment” means a garment designed for postoperative and/or therapeutic use, and includes garments typically used after plastic, aesthetic, reconstructive, orthopaedic, general, surgical, and burn treatment applications. Examples of medical garments include mastectomy brassieres, surgical vests and corsets, abdominal belts or girdles, lymphoedema garments, body suits, trunk bandages, and other postoperative compression garments.
The following figures show garments which may be fabricated using the system of the present invention including, for example, a bandeau bra (
Portions of the fabric template (10) used to structure the garments are outlined. As shown in
The fabric pieces developed from the fabric template (10) can serve as foundation patterns or blocks for garments such as, for example, swimsuits.
Intermediate blocks can be developed from basic blocks to enable pattern manipulation such that patterns can be produced for a variety of styles.
Fabric pieces can also be modified to fit specific areas of the body including, for example, the crotch. Prior art designs for classic bifurcated and panty crotchlines typically include an open dart positioned on the center frontline which can cause puckering and does not provide any option for full leg coverage (
Openings or closures may be positioned at the front or rear of the garment as shown, for example in the following figures: rear closure (
In one embodiment, the invention comprises a method for preparing a garment for a wearer comprising the steps of:
As set forth in Example 1, the detailed steps of the method are as follows. Modular fabric pieces are pre-fabricated in a variety of sizes, styles, and functions. The fabric pieces function as blocks to form the structural base of a garment. Following a consultation with the client or wearer, the fitter selects fabric pieces in accordance to the wearer's body contour and preferences. Alternatively, the wearer may select her choices through a printed or online catalogue prior to attending the on-site fitting.
From among a selection of bandeaus having pre-determined circumferences, a bandeau (18) having the circumference of the wearer's bust is selected and fitted to the wearer's body. Suitable tools for measuring the circumference of the wearer's bust include, but are not limited to, measuring tape, metal tape, and the like. The width of the client's rib cage may provide an estimated circumference of the wearer's bust. Rib cage width can be measured by having the wearer stand with her back to a wall, marking each side of her rib cage using pegs, thumbtacks, or a pencil, and measuring the distance between the markers. The estimated circumference may vary slightly from the true circumference due to factors such as, for example, the shape of the bridge at the sternum, the height from the bridge to the top of the breast, the length of ptosis, and the depth or volume of the breasts.
After a bandeau (18) conforming substantially to the wearer's torso is fitted, the fitter drapes the fabric pieces directly onto the wearer's body. Since the fabric pieces are laid directly onto the body, the wearer has the opportunity to decide upon the desired feel of fit (i.e., tighter or looser, neckline, etc.). The fabric pieces are adjusted or altered as needed to fit the wearer. In addition, drafting fit templates may also be used in combination with the fabric pieces. As will be recognized by those skilled in the art, drafting fit templates provide individualized information as to neckline, sleeve cut, etc. Any changes to the wearer's original choices for the garment can be made during draping. In addition, there is no loss of garment details since the garment is fitted directly onto the wearer's body.
When a satisfactory fit has been achieved, the fabric pieces are pinned together. The fitter relays the details of the fabric pieces to a production operator who prepares and cuts any exterior or additional pieces required to complete assembly of the garment. With the fabric pieces provided by the production operator, the fitter finishes the fitting process on the wearer. Assembly of the garment is completed by making any needed alterations and sewing all the fabric pieces together. Any additional requirements may be included such as, for example, underwire for women having macromastia, and padding to create symmetry for a smaller breast, a lower shoulder, or a lower hip, or to enhance the size of the breasts or buttocks. In one embodiment, the garment is fitted and prepared within about four hours. In one embodiment, the garment is fitted and prepared in about 3.8 hours, including about 80 minutes for consultation and fitting, about 85 minutes for drafting and alteration, and about 65 minutes for sewing. After consultation and fitting, the garment can thus be prepared within about two and a half hours.
It will be understood that the pre-fabricated fabric pieces may be provided in a kit for fashion training or home sewing. In one embodiment, the invention comprises a kit for preparing a garment for a wearer comprising a plurality of pre-fabricated fabric pieces in a variety of sizes, styles, and fabrics, each of the fabric pieces being structured to correspond to respective portions of the fabric template, and instructions for using the fabric pieces to prepare the garment.
In one embodiment, the invention comprises a method for treating or preventing disorders associated with insufficient breast support comprising clothing a subject in a garment manufactured using the above system.
The disorders may be selected from ptosis, mastalgia, macromastia, maceration, intertrigo, muscle tension, neck pain, back pain, headaches, fatigue, upper limb neural symptoms, abrasions, poor posture, impaired circulation, shoulder strain, or breathing problems. As used herein, the term “mastalgia” means general breast pain including cyclical mastalgia with symptoms at certain timepoints in the menstrual cycle, non-cyclical mastalgia which results in consistent pain to all or part of the breast, and exercise-related mastalgia. As used herein, the term “macromastia” means a state of having disproportionately large breasts. As used herein, the term “maceration” means the softening and breaking down of skin resulting from prolonged exposure to moisture. As used herein, the term “intertrigo” means inflammation of skin folds which occurs with ptosis and macromastia.
As will be apparent to those skilled in the art, various modifications, adaptations and variations of the foregoing specific disclosure can be made without departing from the scope of the invention claimed herein.
Exemplary embodiments of the present invention are described in the following Example, which is set forth to aid in the understanding of the invention, and should not be construed to limit in any way the scope of the invention as defined in the claims which follow thereafter.
A garment was prepared for a client according to the steps set out in Table 1. The time for each step was determined, with the total time for consultation/fitting being about 80 minutes, the total time for drafting/alteration being about 85 minutes, and the total time for sewing being about 65 minutes. The overall total time for preparation of the garment was 3.8 hours. These results indicate that a garment can be fitted and fabricated accurately and efficiently within less than about four hours. This preparation time is considerably less than the typical production time required for custom-made garments.
The following references are incorporated herein by reference (where permitted) as if reproduced in their entirety. All references are indicative of the level of skill of those skilled in the art to which this invention pertains.
