This invention generally relates to the manufacture of clothing and, more particularly, to a system and method for producing and inspecting custom-made clothing using digital design data.
One of the ways the clothing industry seeks to be profitable is by mass-producing garments in only a few sizes. T-shirts, for example, usually are available in small, medium and large sizes. One-size-fits-all is a familiar sizing option for some garments as well.
Even where ten or more garment sizes are offered for sale, many customers seem not to fit into any of the available sizes. Consider, for example, a customer with a large waist and thin legs. Since the waist size is large, the customer is more likely to regularly find pants that are too loose on the legs or too tight in the waist. Also, the customer may find pants that will fit, but may not prefer the pants design.
Some changes are evident in the clothing industry. Some garment stores, for example, offer pants in many different styles, hoping to fit a larger percentage of customers. Still, the almost infinite variety of body sizes and fit preferences frustrate the ability to satisfy all customers.
Some garment manufacturers offer custom-fitting facilities, in which a customer either visits a sizing location or submits size data to the facility. For on-site service, a variety of sizing methods can be employed, from computer-directed body scanning techniques to the use of a tape measure. Once the body contour of the customer is established, a customer-specific garment can be produced.
Unlike mass manufactured garments, where textures are piled and pattern pieces (i.e., designed texture pieces) are cut out in mass, custom-made garments require each pattern piece to be cut out to a unique design. That unique design incorporates the size, shape and preferences of the customer for whom the garment is being made. Currently, these custom-made pattern pieces are often cut manually, piece by piece, and pattern pieces and garments (i.e., connected pattern pieces) are mostly inspected by manual means, or visual human inspection.
As with all manual, human manufacturing processes, the manual cutting and visual inspection process in the custom-made garments industry is tedious and time consuming, and marginally reliable at best. This unreliability is because the pattern pieces and garments at the manual visual inspection process require varying human judgment, even for similar quality standards. Further, unlike the inspection of mass-produced clothing where inspections are made against a static design, custom-made clothing are inspected against unique designs. This constantly changing unique design inspection frustrates the speed and accuracy with which the manual visual inspection process can be accomplished for custom-made clothing.
Some manufacturers have attempted to speed up pattern piece garment inspection. For example, U.S. Pat. No. 5,664,512 (“the 512 patent”) describes a vision and control system that produces an X-axis and Y-axis accept/reject reference, where the two axes are based on a corner point in the pattern piece and cut lines extending from the corner point in a 90 degrees cut angle. However, if a cut pattern piece does not have a corner point (e.g., a rounded pocket piece for pants, a hat piece, etc.), reference point cannot be located and inspection using X-Y axes cannot be conducted. Moreover, even if the pattern piece were to have a corner point, for many, if not most, pattern pieces (e.g., like sleeves, tapered pants legs, etc.), cut lines do not extend from the corner point in a 90 degrees angle, making formation of the reference X-Y axes using cut lines less possible.
A further drawback of using X-Y reference axes defined by a corner point with a 90 degrees cut angle is that inspection error will more likely be induced by this method. For example, consider a pattern piece that is shaped as shown in FIG. 14, having one 90 degrees cut corner and straight cut lines on the upper right position. During the cutting process, the 90 degrees corner has been mistakenly cut in a slightly skewed manner, but maintaining the 90 degrees corner and the straight cut lines. The pattern piece as a whole is within the design tolerance, but when X-Y axes are created from this corner point and inspected using the methodology of the '512 patent, the further away from the reference corner point, the more gap will result between the actual pattern piece position and the expected position, inducing an inspection error. This error-induction at inspection will hinder the production process and greatly increase the cost of the finished garment.
Because of the slow, tedious and inaccurate manual visual inspection process involved in the production of custom-made garments, custom-made garments tend to take longer to produce, which is one of reasons why they are more expensive than similar mass produced garments. Thus, for custom-made garments to more effectively compete with mass produced garments, the time to produce, which is driven by the time and accuracy to inspect must be reduced.
What is needed, then, in the custom-made garment industry is an improved method of inspecting custom-made pattern pieces and garments with precision and speed.
According to the embodiments described herein, a method is disclosed in which a try-on garment is created from a plurality of base patterns, the base patterns are retrieved and marked according to the body shape and fit and/or style preferences of a customer, then modified and connected to create a sample garment based on the marks, and the marked sample garment is scanned to generate customer data. The method further comprises cutting material for a custom-made garment based on the customer data and sewing the cut material together to form the custom-made garment.
Further, a system for producing custom-made garments is disclosed comprising a plurality of try-on garments, wherein each try-on garment associate with one or more pieces of base patterns to be modified and connected together to create a sample garment for sizing on a customer; and a recording system comprising at least one imaging device and the one or more pieces of the sample garment are recorded by the imaging device as digitized data. In some embodiments, the system further comprises a cutting machine, which cuts fabric based upon the digitized data. The system may further comprise a pattern holder for maintaining the positions of the one or more pieces of the sample garment during the recording operation.
Advantages and other features of the invention will become apparent from the following description, the drawings and the claims.
These and other aspects and features of the present invention will become apparent to those ordinarily skilled in the art upon review of the following description of specific embodiments of the invention in conjunction with the accompanying figures, wherein:
The present invention will now be described in detail with reference to the drawings, which are provided as illustrative examples of the invention so as to enable those skilled in the art to practice the invention. Notably, the figures and examples below are not meant to limit the scope of the present invention. Moreover, where certain elements of the present invention can be partially or fully implemented using known components, only those portions of such known components that are necessary for an understanding of the present invention will be described, and detailed descriptions of other portions of such known components will be omitted so as not to obscure the invention. Further, the present invention encompasses present and future known equivalents to the known components referred to herein by way of illustration.
Generally, in accordance with the embodiments described herein, a garment facility produces custom-made garments according to both the body contour, fit and style preferences of a customer. Sample garments, made by connecting one or more base patterns together, are made available to the customer for fitting.
Each sample garment is made from base patterns that have been marked and modified by tailors or other persons associated with the facility, according to the desired fit and the body contour of the customer. The marked garments are then scanned and information corresponding to the marks and desired modifications are recorded and sent to a cutting machine as digital design data. Material for the custom-made garment is then cut and inspected according to the digital design data and the cut items are sewn together to form the custom-made garment. The finished garment can be further inspected according to the digital design data. During inspection process, inspection marks will be used to facilitate an acceptably high level of quality control.
In
As referred to herein, a base pattern 210 is an individual pattern piece comprising the try-on garment 200, such as a left leg front, a back yoke, and so on. For example, a base pattern 210 for the try-on garment 200 illustrated in
Although depicted as a contiguous entity, the custom-made garment facility 100 can be physically distributed as two or more separate facilities. Accordingly, for example, the customer data 20 produced by a scanner system 10 and computer system 22 at one site can be sent to a remote site where cutting machines 30 are operated, such as in a factory environment. Further, the computer system 22 can be distributed among different sites. Moreover, some or all of the scanner system 10 and computer system 22 (e.g., a processor for executing one or more of the programs 24) can be combined in one unit.
In one embodiment of the present invention, a unique try-on garment identifier (TID) 46 is associated with each try-on garment 200 and a unique base pattern identifier (BID) 48 is associated with each base pattern 210. The TID and BID are printed on or attached to the try-on garment 200 and base pattern 210 where they will be visible. Each TID 46 and BID 48 is preferably stored in a database 250, accessible to the custom-made garment facility 100. As used herein, database 250 refers to a storage device such as a hard disk drive, an optical disk drive such as CD-ROM or DVD-ROM, tape media drive, or other storage device, whether or not structured as a database with associated database software (e.g., Oracle or Microsoft Access).
According to another aspect of the invention, each base pattern 210 can be a design-adjustable pattern piece. In the example shown in
During the marking process of the base pattern 210, care must be taken so that the mark lines 52 are marked on the ears 214 where the base pattern will be modifiable. In addition, the try-on garment 200 and the associated base pattern 210 have reference marks 104 in the same location as to help the tailor locate adjustment points on the base pattern from the try-on garment. For example, as a person (e.g., customer) is trying on a try-on garment 200, a tailor has at his/her disposal, the complete set of loose base patterns associated with that try-on garment. So the tailor can use the reference marks 104 on the try-on garment 200 worn by the customer to locate and identify adjustment points on the loose base patterns in accordance with the person's fit and preferences, without needing to use a tape measure or other methods that are possibly uncomfortable for the customer.
By modifying and connecting the pieces of the one or more base patterns 210 based on the mark lines 52, the tailor produces the sample garment 50. The base pattern pieces are connected together before the sample garment is tried on, such as with thread, snaps, tape, Velcro (trademark of 3M) or other connection means. In one embodiment, base patterns are connected together using thread and a sewing method called a “chain stitch”. A “chain stitch” can be made using a factory-type sewing machine, such as those widely used in most garment factories. The chain stitch has one unique point wherein if one thread becomes loose and that thread is pulled, all the thread will come off. Other preferred methods to securely connect and then easily separate the modified base patterns should be apparent to those skilled in the art, such as by using staples. Also, tape or Velcro (trademark of 3M) can be used to position the back pockets.
Depending on the garment's design, the sample garment 50 can be made from a single base pattern 210, or from multiple base patterns 210. Also, since each base pattern is a design-adjustable piece, the same base pattern piece can be modified in different ways to create different styles of sample garments. Moreover, base patterns retrieved from different styles of try-on garments 200 can be modified and selectively connected with one another to create a completely new sample garment. For example, the front legs of the sample garment can come from a first try-on garment-associated base pattern while the back legs of the sample garment come from a second try-on garment-associated base pattern. The custom-made garment facility 100 allows the customer to identify desired features of each possible garment style and use those features interchangeably in producing a sample garment 50 for trying on. For example, a customer can select a try-on garment 200, from which one or more base patterns 210 are retrieved, and the customer can also discuss with the person associated with garment facility 100 how the customer wants to modify them to obtain desired features.
During a customer order process (including the selection of a try-on garment 200, and the mark-up of its associated base patterns 210 as set forth above), a unique sample garment identifier (SID) 32 is assigned to the final sample garment 50, in one embodiment. As with the unique try-on garment identifier (TID) 46 and the unique base pattern identifiers (BID) 48, each SID 32 is stored in the database 250. In one embodiment, when the custom-made garment 300 is ultimately produced, its associated SID 32 will be printed on or attached to the garment, as will be described in more detail below. At a later time, the SID 32 can thus be readily obtained and used to retrieve the sample garment data so as to reproduce the sample garment for a new custom fitting, or for reorder of the custom-made garment 300. In addition, each customer will be assigned a unique customer identifier (CID) 26, when ordering a first custom-made garment from sample garment 50 for example. When pattern pieces are cut, the SID 32 and CID 26 can be printed on or attached to each pattern pieces to help keep track of those pieces, as will be described in more detail below.
The composition of the sample garment 50, which includes the inspection marks (point of origin 106, reference point 108, and reference lines 112, 114), is maintained in the database 250. Furthermore, in one embodiment, the database 250 is network-accessible, such that the database is available to employees of the custom-made garment facility who may operate in remote locations worldwide. Also, a customer will be able to re-order the custom-made garment via a data communications network such as the Internet. Security measures, well known to those in the industry, can be provided to limit access to the information in the database 250 to only those so authorized.
Ideally, try-on garment identifiers (TIDs), base pattern identifiers (BIDs), sample garment identifiers (SIDs), and customer identifiers (CIDs) are relationally linked in the database. The CID for a customer can be linked to the BIDs and SIDs agreed upon during the fitting operation, but individual customer information assigned to each CID contained in the database 250 would not be readily accessible by others. However, the association of a CID with a particular BID or SID does not preclude the BID or SID from being used by another customer. In other words, once a base pattern/sample garment arrangement is stored in the database, it may potentially be used by customers other than the original customer.
Once the various marked-up and modified base pattern pieces are connected and fitted on the customer, and the customer agrees with the fit and design, the sample garment 50 is disassembled for scanning by scanner system 10. The scanner system is used to identify the mark lines 52, fixed reference marks (e.g., size lines, inspection marks, etc.) and other markings made by the tailor (e.g., easing amount/position, etc.) on each piece and, accordingly, produce digital design data, shown as customer data 20. In one embodiment, digital design data that represents the design of each pattern piece constructing the sample garment will be preserved together in the customer data 20.
Referring back to
The computer system 22 preferably includes one or more software programs 24 that control the operation of the scanner, and retrieve the image output therefrom in order to identify the mark lines 52 and inspection marks. The scanner's operation can be controlled in basically the same manner as typical document scanners commonly used with computer systems today (except that the scanner of the present invention can include top and bottom scan cameras and a top head ink jet printer as will be described in more detail below).
Accordingly, programs 24 can include interface and control programs, adapted from or known to those of skill in the art, to control the scanner system 10 and to send appropriate commands to the scanner system 10. In one example operation of program 24, first it will cause the scanner system 10 to make a rough scan of the entire scan table 76 and to display the whole scanned image on the monitor 78. Next, a tailor can specify the area that needs to be scanned in more detail (e.g., the area including only one of the pattern pieces when multiple pattern pieces are placed on the table 76) and the program 24 will cause scanner system 10 to start the detail scan operation. The detail scan output image data can then be converted to a proprietary or standard format such as JPEG, TIFF or DXF (DXF is a format widely used in the CAD industry), preferably one that is able to handle color images.
According to one aspect of the invention, the reference marks 104, guide lines 128, size lines 126, inspection marks (point of origin 106, reference point 108, reference lines 112, 114), and mark lines 52 can differ in colors or shapes so as to be manually distinguished from each other by persons associated with the custom-made facility 100. Alternatively, the different types of marks can be distinguished from each other automatically by computer program 24 (for example, commercially available image editors such as Adobe Photoshop (trademark of Adobe Systems Inc. of San Jose, Calif.) can distinguish lines by color and so a full-auto program can be developed). In a preferred embodiment, computer program 24 is one program or complete set of programs that can both control the operation of scanner system 10, retrieve and convert the scanned image data to a desired file format, distinguish the mark lines from other lines and markings in the scanned image, and further adjust the mark lines as will be described in more detail below. Alternatively, separately available programs such as Adobe Photo Shop and Adobe Illustrator (trademarks of, and available from, Adobe Systems Inc. of San Jose, Calif.), which include routines that can recognize the mark lines by contrasting the color with the background color of the sample garment pieces, can be used along with other commercially available or proprietarily developed programs.
One possible scanner system for use in the present invention is depicted in FIG. 4A. The scanner includes motors 74, which operate one or more scanner heads 72. One motor 74a controls movement of the scanner head 72a in one direction (e.g., the X-axis), while the other motor 74b controls movement of the scanner head 72b in a second direction (e.g., the Y-axis). The scanner heads 72 provides one or more cameras for acquiring the image of a garment. Optionally, one or more top scanner heads can also be fitted with an ink jet head, such as for further marking the garment, as will be described in more detail below.
In one embodiment, the scanner system 10 comprises a transparent table surface 76 and two cameras (stored within the head units 72), one positioned above the table (head unit 72a) and one positioned below the table (head unit 72b). By positioning the pattern pieces on the transparent table, both sides of the pattern pieces can be scanned simultaneously. Alternatively, a first camera scan can be made, and then a second scan is made. In one example, the table includes air holes 88 connected to a vacuum or compressor (not shown) for producing suction against the pattern pieces. This prevents the pattern pieces from moving during the scanning operation.
Referring now to
As previously discussed, the image data 54 includes scanned inspection marks.
As shown in
Since the sample garment has been modified and connected based upon the customer fit preferences and body contour, no further modification should be required, but if the customer prefers further modification—for example, a snug fit in one section of the garment—the tailor can preliminarily mark the sample garment while on the customer, and then re-adjust the sample garment starting once again from re-marking the base pattern (block 408). Additionally, the customer's preferences for length of the garment, pocket position, pocket shape and other features can be made. Such sizing features are familiar to those of ordinary skill in the clothing industry. The mark lines 52 on each base pattern 210 comprising the sample garment indicate the modification of the design as well as the position of the marked piece in relation to one or more of the other base pattern pieces. Mark lines 52 are preferably made using a highly visible, but erasable or naturally disappearing medium, such as a disappearing Chako pen, chalk, ink, or other medium (available from Adger Kogya Co. Ltd. of Japan) that remains on the base pattern for only a limited duration.
In some prior art custom-fitting operations, a customer wears a sizing garment upon which sizing indicators are present. Sizing indicators can be elaborate, such as using color-coded, alphabetical or numerical markings, and the like. The tailor fits the garment according to the customer preference, and then records the sizing indicators, usually a series of numbers, letters, or other indicia representative of how the pieces of the sizing garment fit relative to one another. The recording may be on a custom-made order form or on a blank slip of paper.
Unfortunately, by recording the sizing indicators only, subsequent inspection of the garment can be checked only with respect to the recorded sizing indicators. Because the sizing indicators were recorded according to a visual inspection, an error is possible, but not discoverable, until the custom-made garment is tried on. In other words, if the tailor or other facility employee incorrectly records the sizing indicators, there is no way to inspect the final product for accuracy.
In contrast, the custom-made garment facility 100 of the present invention records the actual sizing information (e.g., the mark lines 52 for each marked up piece of the sample garment) by producing an actual visual image of the piece. The scanner system 10 thus records the pieces with both the inspection marks and the mark lines thereon. At a later time, the customer data 20 can be retrieved as an actual visual image of what was scanned. Instead of having written information about what the tailor saw (i.e., a translation), the tailor's actual markings on the sample garment pieces are recoverable by the custom-made garment facility 100 for an indefinite period of time.
Returning to
Once the customer data 20 is generated by the computer system 22, it is sent to a cutting facility such as the cutting machine 30 (block 416). As mentioned above, the cutting facility can be physically remote from the scanner system 10. Transmitting digital data to a remote facility can be accomplished in numerous ways familiar to those of ordinary skill in the art, such as via a data communications network including the Internet. Once the cutting facility receives the necessary customer data 20, material for the garment is cut (block 418). The cut materials (i.e., material corresponding to each of the customized base pattern pieces 210) are then inspected (block 419) using the customer data 20. Finally, the pattern pieces are sewn together (block 420) in a manner customary in the garment industry to form the custom-fit garment 300, and the final inspection is conducted (block 421).
In one embodiment, the customer data 20 includes a digital design data, a representation of each pattern piece of the customer-marked sample garment 50, as specified by the customer and as enhanced by the tailor and/or software program 24 (including salvage, shrinkage amount, and other parameters). With the customer data 20, the custom-made garment 300 can thus be reproduced at any time. Ideally, no paper pattern is generated for producing the custom-made garment, though one could easily be produced from the customer data 20. Instead, the customer data 20 is sent directly to a cutting machine 30, the desired material for the garment is selected, the inspection marks are marked, and the material is cut using the digital design data preserved in the customer data 20, as will be described in more detail below. Thus, the cutting machine uses the customer data 20 instead of a printed pattern to determine where to cut the material.
Image data 54 generated from customer data 20 may have been modified to include parameters such as salvage, shrinkage amount, easing amount and so on. Thus, the image data 54 can represent a modification of the customer-marked sample garment 50, as originally scanned. However, since additional parameters can be added automatically, such as by the software program 24, or manually, these parameters can likewise be removed automatically or manually. Therefore, the image data 54 can either be a representation of the customer-marked sample garment 50 or the customer-marked sample garment after the additional parameters are included. The specification data 56 is non-visual data that has been added to or extracted from the visual scanned image data 54. Data added to the image data includes the salvage, shrinkage amount, and other parameters that are added to the digital design data to change the mark lines 52, and generated as a modified image data 54 including these parameters. Specification data 56 that has been extracted from the image data include digital design data that indicate length and width of a pattern piece, distance of the mark lines from a point of origin 106 in X-Y coordinates using the inspection marks, and so on. This data can be in a DXF or other file format. In one embodiment, specification data can further include try-on garment identifier (TID), base pattern identifier(s) (BID) and sample garment identifier (SID) to identify try-on garment, base pattern(s) and sample garment, respectively, that have been used and assigned at the time of the customer's order. The customer information 58 is non-visual data that include customer identifier (CID), billing address, shipping address, customer dimensions, customer order history of custom-made garments (SIDs) and so on.
Because of the ease with which digital data can be reproduced, the image data 54 and the specification data 56 can be retrieved from one or more workstations located at the sewing site. A workstation may be a laptop computer, a personal computer, a mainframe computer/terminal, a personal digital assistant or other processor-based device that is capable of displaying both the image data 54 and the specification data 56. In
To further illustrate how the present invention incorporates inspection marks into the specification data 56 and, ultimately, the customer data 20, consider
The embodiment shown in
The processes of
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In
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As explained above, in order to obtain three-dimensional (3D) image data of final garment 300 during final inspection, stretchable air pack 310 can be used to style the garment as depicted in FIG. 13. Such may be the preferred method when the garment has darts, for example. The stretchable air pack can be made from material like polyester or stretchable texture that can maintain certain air pressure within the texture, and depending on air pack design, it can be separated into multiple chambers, each connected with an air tube, to give the required air-pressure to the intended position to bring the garment to its designed style.
While the invention is susceptible to various modifications and alternative forms, specific embodiments thereof are shown by way of example in the drawings and will herein be described in detail. It should be understood, however, that the drawings and detailed description thereto are not intended to limit the invention to the particular form disclosed, but on the contrary, the intention is to cover all modifications, equivalents and alternatives falling within the spirit and scope of the present invention as defined by the appended claims.
The present application is a continuation-in-part application of, and claims the benefit of priority from, commonly-owned U.S. patent application Ser. No. 10/342,671 (hereinafter “the '671 application”) to John S. Watanabe, filed Jan. 14, 2003 entitled “System and Method for Custom-Made Clothing,” which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety and for all purposes.
Number | Name | Date | Kind |
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5768135 | Park et al. | Jun 1998 | A |
5956525 | Minsky | Sep 1999 | A |
Number | Date | Country | |
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20040153195 A1 | Aug 2004 | US |
Number | Date | Country | |
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Parent | 10342671 | Jan 2003 | US |
Child | 10764209 | US |