Patent Application
20190059474
The disclosure of Japanese Patent Application No. 2017-166890 filed on Aug. 31, 2017, including the specification, drawings, and abstract is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety.
The present invention concerns a tailored jacket and a manufacturing method thereof and, particularly it relates to a tailored jacket which can be worn reversibly and a manufacturing method thereof.
Reversibly tailored clothes that can be turned inside out and worn with either side of the front and rear surfaces have been known so far. In most of those clothes, a surface fabric and a rear face fabric are overlaid and stitched together (for example, refer to JP2006-200053A).
Regarding such reversibly tailored clothes, either side of front and rear surfaces may be used depending on the use while varying the design and the color of both of the surfaces.
However, those reversibly tailored clothes made of two overlaid fabrics, or reversibly tailored clothes made of one fabric which can be used with either of both front and rear surfaces as an outer surface are not suitable for stiffly tailored jackets which are worn smartly such as tailored jackets.
The tailored jacket is a jacket designed to have a collar and is a well-tailored coat, the tailored jacket is put on alone or together with other items and the like unlike a suit or a blouson.
Upon selection of the tailored jacket, most important features are good fit and feeling of silhouette, and it is important to match the size of the tailored jacket and that of a user's shoulder as being said that “a user wears a jacket focusing on a shoulder in a good fit”.
Tailored jackets have various designs, and recently those having a silhouette tightly fitting a user's shoulder are predominant. Specifically, there is a tendency that a tailored jacket tightly fitting a user's body without causing creases on the back are preferred. Thus, the good fit and feeling of silhouette are important got users to wear a tailored jacket smartly.
However, when those tailored jackets focusing on the good fit and feeling of silhouette are made such that they can be worn reversibly, various problems are posed as described below.
Specifically, in a case of making a reversibly tailored jacket by overlaying a surface fabric and a rear face fabric, when the tailored jacket is worn with one surface being as an outer side, another surface is a rear side. Since a surface area of the rear side is smaller than that of the surface side, an excessive fabric causes creases or deformation.
Therefore, when the jacket is worn with another surface as the outer side, the resulted creases are revealed on the outer side, therefore, the revealed creases cause degradation of the good fit and feeling of silhouette which are important when the tailored jacket is worn smartly.
The creases of the reversible clothes due to the two overlaid fabrics are not annoying in the case of work clothes or exercise clothes. However, in the case of a anesthetically tailored jacket focusing on good fit more, the creases degrade the good fit, and even if reversible specifications with versatile designs could be realized, wearers could not have smartly worn a tailored jacket on which creases are revealed.
Since the reversibly tailored jacket is made by overlaying a surface fabric and a rear face fabric, this poses a problem that the surface fabric and the rear face fabric are misaligned when the tailored jacket is worn. Therefore, the fabric on the inner side fits the body of a wearer but the fabric on the outer side is deviated from the fabric on the inner side, making it difficult to provide a good fit which is important when the tailored jacket is worn smartly.
Besides, when a reversibly tailored jacket is made by overlaying a surface fabric and a rear face fabric, a seam allowance is formed on one surface when stitching the fabric and fabric together, thus posing a problem that the seam allowance gives feeling of discomfort or lowering of aesthetic sense when the jacket is worn.
When cut fabrics are stitched together, an excessive fabric by so much as stitching is necessary. While the fabrics are stitched with each other by overlapping and stitching the excess fabrics, a seam allowance is generated between the stitches and the cut surface.
In a state where the seam allowance is left, when the jacket is worn with the surface having no seam allowance as the outer side, the seam allowance is left on the rear face, leading to occurrence of discomfort when a tailored jacket focusing on good fit is worn. Alternatively, when it is worn with the surface having no the seam allowance on the inner side, although the discomfort generated when the jacket is worn is lowered, a problem that an aesthetic sense is degraded is posed since the seam allowance appears on the surface.
A method of inwardly folding the seam allowance which worsens the aesthetic sense thereby anesthetically treating the seam allowance is considered. However, when the seam allowance is folded inwardly, the folded portions are overlapped to increase the thickness, causing discomfort to a wearer of the tailored jacket focusing on the good fit.
Besides, when the seam allowance is folded and treated anesthetically, a foldable fabric should be used. That is, unless a flexible fabric is used, the seam allowance cannot be treated anesthetically. However, this makes it difficult for a user to wear the tailored jacket smartly without creases.
Thus, it has been extremely difficult to make a reversibly tailored jacket which can be worn with either of the front and rear surfaces as the outer side while turning them inside out smartly without impairing good fit or feeling of silhouette.
The present invention has been made in view of the above, and an object thereof is to provide a reversibly tailored jacket without suppressing good fit and feeling of silhouette which are important when a user wears the tailored jacket smartly, and a method of manufacturing thereof.
In order to solve the above-mentioned problem, the present invention intends to provide a reversibly wearable tailored jacket including a double-faced fabric having ornamental surfaces on both front and rear surfaces, which is a fabric of a circular knitted woolen textile compressed in a cloth-like configuration by felting the fabric comprising:
a cut out surface and
a stitched portion in which the cut out surfaces are stitched together in parallel.
With such a configuration, in the cut surface, the double-faced fabric having ornamental front and rear surfaces, which is a fabric of a circular knitted woolen textile compressed in a cloth-like configuration by felting is cut, and the cut surfaces are stitched in parallel in the stitched portion.
Further, the present invention provides a method of manufacturing a tailored jacket which can be worn reversibly, comprising steps of cutting a double-faced fabric having both ornamental front and rear surfaces, which is a fabric of circular knitted woolen textile compressed in a cloth-like configuration by felting, and stitching the cut fabrics together in parallel.
With such a configuration, the double-faced fabric having ornamental front and rear surfaces, which is a fabric of circular knitted woolen textile compressed in a cloth-like configuration by felting is cut, and cut fabrics are stitched together in parallel.
According to the tailored jacket and the manufacturing method thereof of the present invention, since the double-faced fabric having ornamental front and rear surfaces, which is a fabric of circular knitted woolen textile compressed in a cloth-like configuration by felting, is cut on the surface to be cut, and in the stitched portion, the cut fabrics are stitched together in parallel. Therefore, creases are not left in any of front and rear surfaces, the seam allowances are not revealed on the front or rear surface, so that this does not degrade any of a good fit and feeling of silhouette which are important in wearing a tailored jacket.
The embodiment of the present invention will be described specifically with reference to the drawings.
As shown in
The tailored jacket 100 is a reversibly tailored cloth which can be worn with either of the front surface or the rear surface, and the both surfaces can be used selectively properly in accordance with the use by varying the design or color of the first ornamental surface 111 and the second ornamental surface 112.
The tailored jacket 100 is provided with a plurality of button holes 130 on an upper front body 121 and a lower front body 122 which are to be laterally overlapped, among front body 120 which are parts covering the front of a body of a wearer of the tailored jacket 100.
The tailored jacket 100 includes a case shown in
That is, the upper front body 121 and the lower front body 122 are turned inside out between the case where the jacket is worn with the first ornamental surface 111 as the outer side and another case where the jacket is worn with the second ornamental surface 112 as the outer side. The upper front body 121 and the lower front body 122 are sometimes turned inside out depending on whether the wearer of the tailored jacket is a man or woman.
The button holes 130 formed to an overlapping portion of the upper front body 121 and the lower front body 122 are provided with detachably attached both-sided buttons 140, so that the upper front body 121 and the lower front body 122 are fastened by the both-sided buttons 140 by fitting them to the button holes 130 provided to the upper front body 121 and the lower front body 122 respectively. The button holes 130 and the both-sided buttons 140 are to be described specifically later.
In addition, container bags 150 each in a bag-like shape for containing small articles are provided to the first ornamental surface 111 and the second ornamental surface 112 of the front body 120 of the tailored jacket 100. The container bags 150 are to be described specifically below.
The tailored jacket 100 includes a collar 160 provided while being turned back outwardly at a portion fitting a neck. When the jacket is worn with the first ornamental surface 111 as the outer side, the collar 160 is provided so that the front side surface of the collar 160 provided while being turned back is the first ornamental surface 111 and, alternatively, when the jacket is worn with the first ornamental surface 112 as the outer side, the collar 160 is provided so that the front side surface of the collar 160 provided while being turned back is the second ornamental surface 112. The collar 160 will be described specifically below.
As shown in
The double-faced fabric 110 is a woolen fabric formed of sheep wool as a material, which is prepared by forming a tubular cloth by continuous spiral loops through circular knitting, cutting out the fabric into a planar shape and pressing the resultant fabric into a sheet-like shape by felting.
In the circular knitting step, threads of different yarn count and color are knitted, so that the first ornamental surface 111 and the second ornamental surface 112 can be formed to have different colors in one sheet of fabric.
In addition, when a double-faced circular knitted fabric is moistened with e.g., a special chemical and subjected to felting to shrink the fabric while applying pressure and friction, a double-faced fabric 110 having a felt-like unique texture can be formed.
As described above, since the sheep wool is subjected to circular knitting and felting, the loose threads of the fabric are compressed, unlike ordinary clothes, the double-faced fabric 110 scarcely suffers from loose threads at the cut edge portions.
Therefore, it is not necessary to treat the cut edges of the double-faced fabric 110, and the cut double-faced fabrics 110 can be stitched together in parallel while abutting the cut surfaces of the double-faced fabrics 110.
Accordingly, since it is not necessary to provide a seam allowance, the fabrics can be stitched together in a planer state, and no protruded seam allowance reveals on the surface of either the first ornamental surface 111 or the second ornamental surface 112 of the tailored jacket 100. Details of abutting the cut surfaces and stitching them together in parallel are to be described later.
By making the tailored jacket 100 using the double-faced fabric 110, a reversibly-tailored jacket 100 having a specification of completely single fabric can be made. Therefore, creases or deformation which was caused in reversibly tailored jacket made of double-faced fabrics so far can be overcome.
Accordingly, good fit and feeling of silhouette which are important in wearing a tailored jacket smartly can be obtained. Besides, when the tailored jacket is worn while fitting it to a body of a wearer, it does not cause discomfort to the wearer since there is no seam allowance.
As shown in
The double-faced fabric 110 includes cut out surfaces 113 formed by cutting the fabric along a pattern on every part constituting the tailored jacket 100 without providing seam allowance.
The double-faced fabric 110A and the double-faced fabric 110B are aligned in parallel having therebetween a stitching line L where the cut surfaces 113A and 113B are abutted against each other, and stitched together by two upper threads 114 and 115 and one lower thread 116.
The upper thread 114 forms zigzag stitches on the side of the first ornamental surface 111 of the double-faced fabric 110A, and the upper thread 115 forms zigzag stitches on the side of the first ornamental surface 111 of the double-faced fabric 110B.
The lower thread 116 forms stitches while passing through stitched and turned loops of the upper thread 114 and the upper thread 115 on the side of the second ornamental surface 112 of the double-faced fabric 110A and the double-faced fabric 110B.
On the side of the first ornamental surface 111 of the double-faced fabric 110A and the double-faced fabric 110B, all of turned back points 114A and turned back points 115A on the side of a stitch line L of the upper thread 114 and the upper thread 115 are located on the stitch line L, and turned back points 114B and turned back points 115B on the side opposite to the stitch line L are provided at predetermined intervals in the direction orthogonal to the stitch line L.
The lower thread 116 is stitched in the direction of the stitch line L passing through the turn back points 114A, 114B, 115A, and 115B on the side of the second ornamental surface 112 of the double-faced fabric 110A and the double-faced fabric 110B.
The lower thread 116 is connected with the upper thread 114 and the upper thread 115 while repeating the loops of stitches and turns formed by the upper thread 114 and the upper thread 115 in the order of the turn back points 115B, 115A, 114B, 115A, 115B, 114A, 115B, . . . .
Therefore, the cut out surface 113A is compressed by the upper thread 114 and the lower thread 116 surrounding the double-faced fabric 110A, the cut out surface 113B is compressed by the upper thread 115 and the lower thread 116 surrounding the double-faced fabric 110B, and the lower thread 116 stitches the cut out surface 113A and the cut out surface 113B together while passing through the stitched and turned loops of the upper thread 114 and the upper thread 115.
Accordingly, the double-faced fabric 110A and the double-faced fabric 110B can be stitched together in parallel while abutting the cut out surface 113A and the cut out surface 113B, so that it is possible to stitch the double-faced fabric 110A and the double-faced fabric 110B together in a flat state without forming protruding seams.
Since the double-faced fabric 110A and the double-faced fabric 110B can thus be stitched together in parallel in a flat state, a protruding seam allowance is not formed. That is, discomfort and loss of good fit that would be caused when a seal allowance protrudes inwardly in the reversibly tailored jacket 100 can be overcome and also degradation of aesthetic appearance when a seam allowance is protruded inwardly can be overcome.
As shown in
Since the collar 160 is provided while being turned back outwardly, when the tailored jacket 100 is made in a state where the ornamental surface of the front body 120 is continued, the outer surface of the outwardly turned back collar 160 and the outer surface of the front body 120 are revealed on the surface at their different ornamental surfaces. Then, only the collar 160 has a different ornamental surface, so that the tailored jacket 100 cannot be formed in a uniform design.
Specifically, in a case where the jacket is worn with the first ornamental surface 111 as the outer side, when the collar 160 is formed in a state where the ornamental surface of the front body 120 is continued, since the collar 160 is formed while being turned back outwardly, the second ornamental surface 112 of the collar 160 is turned back and revealed on the surface. Then, when the jacket is worn with the first ornamental surface 111 as the outer side, the second ornamental surface 112 is revealed only on the surface of the collar 160, and the design lacks uniform feeling.
Then, the collar 160 is cut from the front body 120 and the back body 170 separately, and as shown in
Specifically, as shown in
Therefore, as shown in
Accordingly, since the same ornamental surface of the turned back collar 160 as that of the ornamental surface of the front body 120 and the back body 170 is revealed on the surface, even when the tailored jacket 100 is worn so that the first ornamental surface 111 and the second ornamental surface 112 are turned inside out, the jacket can be worn while having a unified ornamental surface.
Besides, as shown in
While
As shown in
The both-sided button 140 is formed of two one-sided buttons 141 at a predetermined distance to fasten the overlapped thickness of the upper front body 121 and the lower front body 122, the two one-sided buttons 141 are connected by a connection part 142 formed by winding e.g., a thread around a portion by a plurality of times between the two one-sided buttons 141 and further winding the e.g., a thread so as to turn around the two one-sided button 141.
As shown in
While the diameter of the button hole 130 may be set appropriately, when the diameter is made identical with the diameter of the one-sided button 141 of the both-sided button 140, the both-sided button 140 is prevented from coming out of the button hole 130 after connecting the upper front body 121 and the lower body 122 by the both-sided button 140.
As shown in
Further, as shown in
In the reversibly tailored jacket 100, even when it is worn such that the front and the rear surfaces are turned inside out, since the positions of the buttons are not fixed, the front body 120 can be fastened together in an appropriate state by the both-sided buttons 140 depending on the state of wearing.
The design of the tailored jacket 100 can be varied by connecting the two one-sided buttons 141 of the both-sided button 140 so as to match the first ornamental surface 111 and the second ornamental surface 112 which are two ornamental surfaces of the tailored jacket 100.
As shown in
The container bag 150 is formed so as to have a bag-like shape by joining the container cloth 151 to the surface of the front body 120 by sewing along the stitched portion 152 except for one upper side.
When the container cloth 151 is joined to the front body 120 by sewing, the container cloth 151 and the front body 120 are sewn together using a thread. However, if the container cloth 151 is sewn to the front body 120 as it is, the thread of the stitches of the stitched portion 152 is exposed on the rear side of the front body 120.
For example, when the container cloth 151 is sewn on the side of the first ornamental surface 111 of the tailored jacket 100, the thread of the stitches of the stitched portion 152 is exposed on the side of the second ornamental surface 112. If the tailored jacket 100 is worn while turning the front surface and the rear face inside out in a state where the thread of the stitches of the stitched portion 152 is exposed on the side of the second ornamental surface 112, the thread of the stitched portion 152 which has been exposed on the side of the second ornamental surface 112 is exposed on the outer side, leading to degradation of aesthetic sense.
Then, in the tailored jacket 100 of the present invention, the position and the shape of the container bags 150 formed on the first ornamental surface 111 and the second ornamental surface 112 are made identical, whereby the exposed stitched portion 152 can be minimized.
Specifically, the configuration of the container cloth 151 formed on the first ornamental surface 111 is made identical with that of the container cloth 151 formed on the second ornamental surface 112, and the position of the container cloth 151 sewn to the first ornamental surface 111 and that of the second ornamental surface 112 are made identical.
When performing the sewing, the position of the container cloth 151 formed on the first ornamental surface 111 and the position of the container cloth 151 formed on the second ornamental surface 112 are matched and then basted, so that the two container clothes 151 are fixed to the double-faced fabric 110 at the same position, and then the two container clothes 151 are sewn to the double-faced fabric 110 by final stitching, and then the basting thread is removed.
As the final stitching, while the two container clothes 151 may be sewn to the double-faced fabric 110 at a time, one container cloth 151 is sewn to the double-faced fabric 110 from either side of the first ornamental surface 111 and the second ornamental surface 112, and another container cloth 151 is sewn to the double-faced fabric 110 along the line of the stitches from another side.
Accordingly, the container cloth 151 is sewn to the double-faced fabric 110 along one stitch line, so that excess stitches are not exposed even viewing from the side of the first ornamental surface 111 or the second ornamental surface 112.
As described above, since the double-faced fabric having ornamental surfaces on both front and rear surfaces, which is a fabric of a circular knitted woolen textile compressed in a cloth-like shape by felting is cut out, and the cut out fabrics are abutted against each other and stitched together in parallel, creases are not left on either front or rear surface and the stitches are not revealed on either front or rear surface.
Therefore, reversibly tailored jacket that can be worn by turning the front and rear surfaces inside out can be made without degrading good fit and feeling of silhouette which are important in wearing a tailored jacket smartly.
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2017-166890 | Aug 2017 | JP | national |
