The invention relates to a rose gold alloy, particularly suitable for a timepiece, and a timepiece or jewelry part per se comprising such an alloy, for instance a watch.
The color of gold alloys depends on their contents of alloying elements. For 18 ct AuCuAg alloys for example, a copper content of greater than 180‰ and a silver content of the order of 40‰ gives them a red color. The color changes toward pink then toward yellow if the copper content decreases from 180‰ to 150‰ then from 150‰ to 60‰ and if the silver content increases from 40‰ to 150‰. We have observed that watch cases or bracelets manufactured from these standard gold alloys have a tendency to undergo a gradual modification of their color under the action of tap water, sea water, swimming pool water, salt water or else soapy water.
One of the objectives of the invention is to improve the resistance to color change of a timepiece or jewelry part manufactured from a rose gold alloy and subjected, during use, to weakly corrosive aqueous media.
Another objective of the invention is to define a gold alloy of pink color, the pink of which has the most attractive esthetic appearance possible.
For this purpose, the invention is based on a timepiece or jewelry part comprising an alloy comprising at least 750‰ gold by weight, wherein the alloy comprises at least 200‰ copper, between 4‰ and 35‰ palladium and between 1‰ and 16‰ indium.
The invention is precisely defined by the claims.
These subjects, features and advantages of the present invention will be explained in detail in the following description of particular embodiments given non-limitingly in connection with the appended figures, among which:
Embodiments of the invention will now be presented, using precise examples and results of empirical experiments. For this, ingots are prepared by static vacuum casting (melting in a graphite crucible and cooling under nitrogen). Samples are cut from the ingot in the as-cast state. The surface is prepared by polishing. A typical sample has a square cross section of 20 mm×20 mm×5 mm. All the tests are carried out on as-cast alloys, without subsequent deformation or heat treatment, and without addition of customary grain refiners.
Crystallographic analysis of the samples is carried out with an x-ray diffractometer with Cu anode. A metallographic test and an analysis of the stoichiometries of the phases are carried out by scanning electron microscopy SEM-EDX.
The color variations are measured with a spectrocolorimeter with integrating sphere. The color is defined conventionally by a point of the CIELAB space formed by a green-red axis as abscissa, by a blue-yellow axis as ordinate and from an axis representative of the contrast (cf. CIE15:2004 report prepared by the International Commission on Illumination). The measurements were all carried out using the following convention: D65 illuminant and 10° standard observer (CIE1964). The color differences ΔE are defined by the DE2000 (equation 8.36, paragraph 8.3, CIE15:2004 report). The color difference is measured between new (cast and polished) samples and samples that have undergone accelerated aging in salt spray, with an exposure according to the NIHS 96-50 standard at a temperature of 45° C. with a saline solution containing 50 g/l of pure NaCl. The 750 Au 250 Cu alloy serves as a reference base.
The following convention is used for the naming of the alloys:
The table in
The 13 Pd alloy is very advantageous, from the point of view of the color obtained and of the discoloration. This discoloration as a function of time is represented by curve 1 from
More generally, an alloy composed of at least 750‰ gold, of copper and with a content of palladium (Pd) defined by: Pd≤20‰ or Pd≤15‰, or 5‰≤Pd 15‰, or 8‰ Pd≤15‰, or 11‰≤Pd≤15‰, is advantageous.
The AuCuIn alloys are advantageous, since the results demonstrate that In makes it possible to form a single-phase alloy with Au and Cu. In particular, the 5 In alloy drifts very little, as is seen on curve 2 from
The quaternary or quinternary alloys comprising palladium are also very advantageous. In particular, as it emerges from the results from
More generally, an alloy composed of at least 750‰ gold, of copper, of palladium and of indium is advantageous, particularly when the sum of the contents of Pd and In is less than or equal to 45‰, or even 40‰, or even 35‰, or even 30‰, and/or when the sum of the contents of Pd and In is within the range between 15‰ and 40‰, or even between 20‰ and 35‰, and/or when the alloy comprises at least 1‰ Pd and 1‰ In, or even at least 5‰ Pd and 5‰ In.
More generally, an alloy composed of at least 750‰ gold, of copper, of palladium and of at least one element Y, Y being selected from Ca, Zr, or In, is advantageous, particularly when the sum of the contents of palladium and of the element(s) Y is less than or equal to 40‰, or even 35‰, or even 30‰, or even 25‰, or even 20‰, or even 17‰, or even 15‰, or even 13‰, and/or when the sum of the contents of Pd and of the element(s) Y is within the range between 15‰ and 40‰, or even between 20‰ and 35‰, and/or when the alloy comprises at least 1‰ Pd and 1‰ of the element(s) Y, or even at least 5‰ Pd and 5‰ of the element(s) Y.
More generally, an alloy composed of at least 750‰ gold, of copper, of palladium and of at least one element Y, Y being selected from In, Ca, Sr, Si, Ti, Zr, or Mg, is advantageous, particularly when the sum of the contents of palladium and of the element(s) Y is less than or equal to 40‰, or even 35‰, or even 30‰, or even 25‰, or even 20‰, or even 17‰, or even 15‰, or even 13‰, and/or when the sum of the contents of Pd and of the element(s) Y is within the range between 15‰ and 40‰, or even between 20‰ and 35‰, and/or when the alloy comprises at least 1‰ Pd and 1‰ of the element(s) Y, or even at least 5‰ Pd and 5‰ of the element(s) Y.
The quaternary or quinternary alloys with In are also advantageous. More generally, an alloy composed of at least 750‰ gold, of copper, of indium and of at least one element Y, Y being selected from Ca, Sr, Si, Ti, Zr, Mg or Pd, is advantageous, particularly when the sum of the contents of indium and of the element Y is less than or equal to 40‰, or even 35‰, or even 30‰, or even 25‰, or even 20‰, or even 17‰, or even 15‰, or even 13‰, and/or when the sum of the contents of In and of the element(s) Y is within the range between 15‰ and 40‰, or even between 20‰ and 35‰, and/or when the alloy comprises at least 1 Too In and 1 Too of the element(s) Y, or even at least 5‰ In and 5‰ of the element(s) Y.
The following ternary alloys that are 18 ct or more are particularly advantageous:
The AuCuPdIn quaternary alloys that are 18 ct or more are particularly advantageous:
The following quaternary or quinternary alloys that are 18 ct or more are also particularly advantageous:
The AuCuPdInX quinternary alloys where X is selected from Ca, Sr, Si, Ti, Zr, Mg are also advantageous.
Lastly, it should be noted that other alloys comprising more than four elements may also be advantageous, for example containing five or six elements, obtained by replacing the element Y from the quaternary compounds mentioned above with n elements Y1, Y2, . . . , Yn, the elements Yi preferably being selected from Ca, Sr, Si, Ti, Zr, Mg, Pd or In, and so that the sum of the contents of all the elements apart from Au and Cu is less than or equal to 40‰. Such alloys especially include the alloys comprising the components Au, Cu, Pd, In and X, where X is at least one element selected from Ca, Sr, Si, Ti, Zr, Mg.
Finally, it is noted that the alloys combining both palladium and indium are particularly advantageous compared to the alloys comprising only one or other of these components, as curve 3 from
In particular, it appears that an alloy comprising at least 750‰ gold by weight, also comprising copper, palladium and indium, the sum of the contents of palladium and indium being less than or equal to 45‰, or even less than or equal to 35‰, or even less than or equal to 30‰, and/or the sum of the contents of palladium and indium being between 20‰ and 35‰, is advantageous. Such an alloy may comprise a content of indium defined by: 7‰≤content of In 15‰. Moreover, such an alloy may comprise gold, copper, palladium and calcium and/or silicon, so that the sum of the contents of all the elements apart from gold and copper is less than or equal to 40‰.
Besides the above very important considerations relating to maintaining the color of an alloy over time, it is also necessary to take into account the quality of the color itself obtained for an alloy in question, and particularly the esthetics of the pink color obtained. Indeed, the addition of the various components mentioned above has an effect not only on maintaining the color over time, but also on the color itself of the alloy. For example, the addition of palladium to a rose gold alloy has the effect of desaturating the pink color, even of making the color of the alloy tend toward gray, and the addition of indium has the effect of a drift toward yellow of a rose alloy.
Finally, the rose gold alloys that combine palladium and indium are advantageous since they make it possible simultaneously to achieve a color of satisfactory esthetics and which discolors little with time. The precise amounts for each of these two components and the sum thereof represent compromises between the reduction in discoloration and the esthetics of the desired pink color. We note however that the ranges for this sum of the palladium and indium contents that make it possible simultaneously to achieve a satisfactory pink color and a low discoloration are between 15‰ and 35‰, or even between 20‰ and 35‰, or even between 25‰ and 33‰, as emerges from the preceding analyses. Within these ranges, a high palladium content, greater than or equal to 15‰, or even greater than or equal to 19‰, is favorable to the reduction in discoloration. On the contrary, a low palladium content, less than or equal to 20‰, or even less than or equal to 19‰ or 18‰, is favorable to the esthetics of the pink color. As a compromise, a palladium content between 19‰ and 25‰ inclusive forms a good solution.
The preceding considerations may be adapted to any amount of copper greater than or equal to 180‰, especially also for a relatively small amount of copper, for example between 180‰ and 200‰. However, we note that it is possible to relax some of the above ranges supposing that a large amount of copper is imposed, especially greater than or equal to 200‰. Indeed, in this case, a pink color may be more easily obtained, even using larger amounts of the components palladium and indium that tend to degrade it, as explained above. The result of this is that if the amount of copper Cu is greater than or equal to 200‰, it is possible to obtain suitable alloys with a palladium content between 4‰ and 35‰ and an indium content between 1‰ and 16‰.
Thus, the invention relates to a timepiece or jewelry part comprising an alloy comprising at least 750‰ gold by weight, wherein the alloy also comprises at least 200‰ copper, between 4‰ and 35‰ palladium and between 1‰ and 16‰ indium.
In all cases, if it is desired to guarantee the optimal anti-discoloration effect (anti-aging effect with time), it then becomes advantageous to choose a relatively high palladium content, which may then be between 19‰ and 35‰, or even between 21‰ and 35‰. If it is also desired to avoid too great a degradation of the esthetics of the pink color, it is possible to lower the upper threshold of the palladium content, closer to 30‰ if possible and preferably strictly under 30‰. The optimal ranges taking into account these constraints are then a palladium content between 23‰ and 31‰ inclusive, or even between 23‰ and 29‰ inclusive, or even between 23‰ and 27‰ inclusive, in order to converge around a value of 25‰ which appears to be a good compromise. As an observation, it is noted that, starting from the use of a small amount of indium, for example between 1‰ and 10‰, or between 1‰ and 6‰, and even between 1‰ and 4‰, there is a significant advantageous effect owing to the combination thereof with palladium according to the above contents.
The preceding considerations were made using an example of 18 carat rose gold, i.e. 750‰ gold. As a variant, the results remain relevant for a larger amount of gold, in particular between 750‰ and 800‰, or even 750‰ and 770‰.
The above compositions mention only the predominant elements of the alloy, to which it is possible to add at least one grain refining element according to the knowledge of a person skilled in the art, which gives other embodiment variants of the invention. This grain refining element may be present, for example, at most at a content of 2‰, or even 1‰, of at least one element selected by way of example from Ru, Ir, Re, Co, V and Mo. in particular, the elements such as Ir, Re or Ru make it possible to guarantee the fineness of the grain and to avoid porosities, without substantially modifying the hardness, nor affecting the color, which is advantageous with respect to the desired object.
On the other hand, as was explained above, the alloys could also comprise other components, in addition to the components Au, Cu, Pd and In mentioned to the optional grain refiners, these other components being selected from among Ca, Sr, Si, Ti, Zr, Mg. Advantageously, the sum of the contents of all the elements of the alloy apart from gold and copper is less than or equal to 40‰. As a variant, the alloy may consist of only these four components Au, Cu, Pd, In, with one (or more) optional grain refiner(s).
On the other hand, the various figures illustrate a particular technical effect obtained with the addition of calcium Ca and/or silicon Si, in a very small amount, regarding the reduction in discoloration of the alloys cited by way of example. A very small amount, in particular less than or equal to 10‰, or even 7‰, or even 5‰, for calcium, and/or less than or equal to 2‰, or even 0.5‰, for silicon, is sufficient to significantly reduce the discoloration over time of the alloys illustrated, without having a notable effect on the color itself, provided that a sufficient content of copper, preferably greater than or equal to 180‰, more preferably greater than or equal to 200‰, is used. As an observation, this effect of the components Ca and Si is also borne out on any other rose gold alloy, not necessarily comprising palladium and/or indium.
As an additional observation, it is noted that such a rose gold alloy according to the embodiments of the invention advantageously does not comprise silver, which would induce the negative effect of yellowing the color of the alloy and even of making this color tend toward an unattractive greenish color, then moving away from the desired pink color. Furthermore, as is seen at the bottom of the table from
Lastly, in all the embodiments above, the alloys described will therefore perform particularly well for producing all or a portion of a timepiece, such as a watch case, a bracelet, a watch, etc., or a jewelry part. Naturally, this creation of a timepiece or jewelry part means the manufacture of all or a significant portion of the thickness of a timepiece, and not a simple surface coating. The tests studied and described above furthermore relate to solid volumes of certain alloys. Thus, the pieces or parts considered comprise a large amount of alloy, are advantageously in the form of a solid alloy capable of being deformed and of being polished, in particular comprising at least one portion having a thickness greater than or equal to 0.1 mm.
Number | Date | Country | Kind |
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13154296 | Feb 2013 | EP | regional |
13155142 | Feb 2013 | EP | regional |
14150827 | Jan 2014 | EP | regional |
Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind |
---|---|---|---|
PCT/EP2014/052372 | 2/6/2014 | WO | 00 |
Publishing Document | Publishing Date | Country | Kind |
---|---|---|---|
WO2014/122234 | 8/14/2014 | WO | A |
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Number | Date | Country | |
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20150378311 A1 | Dec 2015 | US | |
20160306327 A2 | Oct 2016 | US |