Patent Application
20230212400
The interaction of cosmetic formulations with the skin and facial oils or sweat has a large impact on the formulation's wear properties. Facial oils, such as sebum, can wet the pigments within a cosmetic formulation, causing them to migrate on the skin. Additionally, when a pigment becomes wetted by sebum it can undergo a color shift resulting in an unnatural appearance. These pitfalls manifest as an appearance of “cakiness” which more readily exposes fine lines and wrinkles. Regardless of how it manifests, the cosmetic must be reapplied, and consumers of cosmetics consider regular reapplication as a negative.
One way to mitigate the effect of migration is to use colourless filler particles with a high surface area that sacrificially absorb oil before the cosmetic becomes fully wetted. These high surface area fillers are scavengers for facial oil, absorbing it before it interacts with the rest of the formulation, and increasing the amount of time a cosmetic can be worn prior to the onset of migration.
Another way to mitigate the effect of migration is to include particles that obscure or blur fine lines and wrinkles. Such a phenomenon is called soft focus. In the case where a cosmetic migrates to a facial wrinkle, the pigment providing soft focus would obscure the wrinkle, making it less obvious, and decreasing the need to reapply the make-up.
Historically, cosmetic materials either address the oil absorption or the soft focus, but none have addressed both issues simultaneously. Traditionally, these cosmetic materials comprised substances including, but not limited to, talc, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and/or microplastics, ingredients which have recently been perceived as harmful by consumers and/or regulatory agencies. More recently, the public's concern over these ingredients, has led to new regulations worldwide with respect to their use and labelling for cosmetics. For this reason, it would be beneficial to develop a product using materials that are generally recognized as safe (GRAS materials).
Traditional strategies to improve the wear of a cosmetic formulation have focused on the binder, utilizing highly hydrophobic polymers, silicones, and pigment surface treatments to create a film over the cosmetic that prevents smudging. This approach protects against external environmental factors like sweat and tears that originate from an area apart from where the makeup is applied.
Soft focus pigments are available, however they contain ingredients that are considered by the public to be harmful to human health or the environment. These ingredients include titanium dioxide, talc, boron, and microplastics. Prior art soft focus pigments which are not as highly oil absorbent may or may not experiences consequences as a result BUT our pigment acts as a two in one—absorbing filler to prevent the soil from interacting with other portions of the cosmetic as well as a soft focus effect. These oils can cause a cosmetic formulation to migrate, resulting in the need to reapply the formulation after a short period of time.
This current composition addresses these issues by forming a layered pigment system comprising a porous or non-porous substrate with a porous shell. One commercial embodiment may comprise a diatomaceous earth substrate with a hydroxyapatite shell to form a functional pigment system with desirable properties.
The combination of these two minerals into a single particle has been found to increase particle surface area, which increases oil absorption when applied to the skin and desirable soft focus properties due to the high porosity of the powders.
The current composition is directed to a layered pigment system that incorporates an outer layer which is a porous mineral shell that is coated onto an inner substrate particle, that may or may not be porous, to form a layered pigment system. Both the inner substrate and outer layer generally have a naturally porous microstructure, which may produce soft-focus properties as well as increased oil absorption, when applied to a surface. This may reduce pigment migration and saturation of a cosmetic formulation once applied to the skin.
The porous mineral shell may comprise a calcium phosphate mineral, for example hydroxyapatite (HA), and the inner particle may be diatomaceous earth. Both diatomaceous earth (DE) and hydroxyapatite (HA) are porous, and the combination of the two materials results in a functional layered pigment system with a high degree of surface area. The high surface area leads to excellent absorption of oils when compared to other commonly used fillers. Moreover, the low refractive index of HA and the substrate and the porous, bilayer structure resulting in many different material interfaces (e.g. air-HA, air-substrate, HA-substrate), which leads to strong forward scattering and diffusion of light, resulting in excellent soft focus. The combination of both high oil absorption and soft focus has not been demonstrated before, and this technology allows formulators to capitalize on both properties while using a single ingredient.
Hydroxyapatite (HA) is a mineral of hydrated calcium phosphate with the following chemical formula: Ca10(PO4)6(OH)2. It is the main mineral that makes up tooth enamel and makes up to 70% the mass of bone in mammals. Hydroxyapatite can be easily precipitated from solution to give a porous mineral coating. Such coatings are used in fertilizer and in organ transplants as they are highly biocompatible and promote the growth of cellular material.
Diatomaceous earth (DE) is a porous mineral made from fossilized algae that is used in a number of applications, including cosmetics, agriculture and food. On a molecular level, DE is made of silicon dioxide, although other minerals like Ca2+ and Mg2+ may also be present. The porosity in the mineral results from the structure of the original algae organism prior to fossilization.
Combining materials such as diatomaceous earth (DE) and hydroxyapatite (HA) into a layered pigment system provides advantages over the prior art in that both substances are generally perceived as safe. The combination of the generally safe ingredients with the technical advantages, produces a compelling value proposition for cosmetic manufactures and provides a good incentive to commercialization.
The layered pigment system described in this application comprises a layered pigment particle having a porous or non-porous mineral substrate and a mineral shell. Note that “porous mineral substrate core,” “porous mineral substrate,” and “porous substrate” may be used interchangeably. The high porosity and multilayer structure of the pigment causes the pigment to have a high oil absorption, which can prolong the longevity of a cosmetic formulation. The pigment structure also leads to excellent soft focus properties when it is used in a cosmetic formulation. This layered pigment system may further comprise other additives which are discussed below.
Without being bound to theory, it is thought that the bilayer structure of porous materials allows for more efficient oil absorption than either a blend of the materials or an equal volume amount of the individual materials. Moreover, this layered combination of porous materials creates a structure with high surface area and a number of interfaces, which lead to efficient blurring and soft focus.
In one embodiment, the layered pigment system comprises an inner porous substrate and an outer shell, wherein the term “porous substrate” implies that it has a high amount of surface area, relative to a non-porous substrate of equal size. While the pore morphology is not important, the pores may be spherical, cylindrical, amorphous or lamellar without reducing the scope of the invention.
In one embodiment, the porous substrate is a mineral selected from: silica, mica, perlite, diatomaceous earth, kaolin, kaolinite, sericite, clay, talc, diatomite, diatomaceous earth, zeolite, and mixtures thereof.
In one embodiment, the porous substrate is a high surface area particle. In the case where the substrate is a particle, the substrate can have a shape that defines its boundaries. The shape of the substrate does not limit the scope of the invention, and the substrate can be any shape known to those skilled in the art. Exemplary substrate shapes include, irregular, spherical, platelet, acicular, wire, and mixtures thereof. The substrate has a particle size distribution that is defined by its median particle size, d50, as measured by light scattering. The d50 of the substrate is preferably in the range of 2-100 μm. In one embodiment, the d50 of the substrate may be in the range of 0.5-35 μm.
In one embodiment, the substrate may be coated with one or more layers of a porous mineral shell. A porous mineral shell is defined as the mineral shell having a high surface area with the pores having any morphology. In the case of the porous mineral shell, it may be present on the surface of the porous mineral substrate or it may penetrate into the pores of the porous mineral substrate. The porous mineral shell is generally present on the surface of the porous substrate in a range of 1-100% by weight with respect to the porous substrate. The porous mineral shell may fully or partially encompass the porous substrate without limiting the scope of the invention.
In one embodiment the porous mineral shell may be crystalline or amorphous without limiting the scope of the invention. Porous mineral shells may include, but are not limited to, one or more minerals from the following group, including calcium phosphate, monocalcium phosphate, monocalcium phosphate monohydrate, dicalcium phosphate, dicalcium phosphate dihydrate, dicalcium phosphate monohydrate, tricalcium phosphate, tetracalcium phosphate, octacalcium phosphate, dicalcium diphosphate, calcium triphosphate, calcium hydroxy phosphate, monetite, brushite, apatite, hydroxyapatite, silica, titanium dioxide, anatase, rutile, and mixtures thereof.
In one embodiment, the layered pigment system may be optionally blended or treated with one or more additives. These additives may have different functions, such as improving dispersibility, improving feel, improving the hydrophobicity, and improving oil absorption. Additionally, the additives may be used to modify the surface charge characteristics of the layered pigment system to be cationic, anionic, neutral or uncharged.
In one embodiment, the layered pigment system may also contain ingredients that may be passively released at a later time in an application. This is possible due to the porous structure of the particle and creating a large amount of free volume per particle. Examples of typical additives include, but are not limited to, one or more from the following: methicone, dimethicone, trifluoropropyl dimethicone, lecithin, egg lecithin, vegetable lecithin, hydrogenated lecithin, galactose arabinan sugar, starch, alginic acid, sodium alginate, potassium alginate, chitosan, magnesium myristate, aluminum myristate, zinc myristate, sodium glycerophosphate, alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, sodium aspartate, cysteine, glutamine, glutamic acid, sodium glutamate, glycine, proline, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, taurine, citruline, ornithine, theanine, dipeptides, tripeptides, polypeptides of more than three amino acids, proteins, enzymes, betaine, carnitine, carnosine, hydroxytryptophan, cysteine, hydroxyproline, N-acetyl cystine, S-adenosyl methionine, tyramine, γ-aminobutyric acid, serotonin, dopamine, 2-aminohepanoic acid, 2-aminoisobutyric acid, 3-aminoisobutyric acid, 2-aminopimelic acid, 2,4-diaminobutyric acid, desmosine, 2,2′-diaminopimelic acid, 2,3-diaminopropionic acid, N-ethylgllycine, selenomethionine, allo-isoleucine, N-methylglycine, N-methylisoleucine, 6-N-methyllysine, N-methylvaline, norvaline, norleucine, pyrrolysine, formylmethionine, β-alanine, δ-aminolevulinic acid, 4-aminobenzoic acid, dehydroalanine, cystathionine, lanthionine, djenkolic acid, diaminpimelic acid, isovaline, lauroyl lysine, glutamate-cysteine-arginine peptides, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, disodium steroyl glutamate, fatty acids, lipids, stearic acid, sodium stearate, oleic acid, sodium oleate, palmitic acid, sodium palmitate, myristic acid, elaidic acid, sodium elaidate, sodium myristate, lauric acid, sodium laurate, arachidic acid, sodium arachidate, erucic acid, sodium erucate, palmitoleic acid, sodium palmitoleate, linoleic acid, sodium linoleate, triethoxyoctyl silane, trimethoxyoctyl silane, triethoxydecyl silane, trimethoxydecyl silane, triethoxydodecyl silane, trimethoxydodecyl silane, triethoxytetradecyl silane, trimethoxytetradecyl silane triethoxyhexadecyl silane, trimethoxyhexadecyl silane, triethoxyoctadecyl silane, trimethoxyoctadecyl silane, PEG-8 triethoxysilane, jojoba wax, polyethylene wax, carnauba wax, unreacted fluorinated compounds, isopropyltitanium triisostearate, perfluoro alkyl phosphates, triethoxylcapryl silane, stearoyl glutamic acid, perfluoroocctyl triethoxysilane, silica, aloe, and mixtures and combinations thereof.
The layered pigment system comprising a porous mineral substrate and a porous mineral shell may be used in cosmetic formulations to improve the long wear properties of the cosmetic. In one embodiment, the layered pigment system may be incorporated into any type of personal care or cosmetic formulation at an optimized loading that improves the wear properties. In another embodiment, the layered pigment system may be incorporated into any type of personal care or cosmetic formulation at an optimized loading that shows a maximum in the soft focus properties of a formulation. In one embodiment, the layered pigment system may be an ingredient that provides a passive or an active effect to a cosmetic. In another embodiment, the layered pigment system may act as a filler or binder in a cosmetic formulation. In one embodiment the optimized loading of the layered pigment system may be in the range of 0.1%-90.0% by weight, with regards to the total weight of the personal care or cosmetic formulation, depending on the type of cosmetic formulation.
In one embodiment, the layered pigment system may be incorporated into any type of personal care formulation such as acne treatments, face creams, skin gels, hand creams, body lotions, moisturizers, water in oil formulation, oil in water formulations, cellulite treatments, body splashes, shampoos, conditioners, styling products, hair sprays, setting lotions, primers, mousses, gels, pomades, waxes, dry shampoos, serums, oils, hair color, root touch up products, scalp treatments, deodorants, antiperspirants, sun screens, tanning lotions, skin lighteners, lip balms, anti-aging creams, eye serums, body oils, make up removers, shaving creams, shaving gels, and eye creams. In the case where the layered pigment is incorporated into a personal care formulation, the layered pigment may be loaded with one or more active or passive ingredients for immediate or prolonged release without limiting the scope of the invention.
In another embodiment, the layered pigment system may be incorporated into any cosmetic formulation such as foundations, pressed powders, loose powders, bronzers, concealers, BB/CC creams, tinted moisturizers, liquid foundations, eye shadows, eye liners, lipsticks, lip glosses, blushes, rouges, facial powders, and nail polishes.
In one embodiment, the layered pigment system may be incorporated into an ink or coating. The ink or coating created may have an aesthetically desirable light diffusion effect. The soft focus effect of the coating or ink can be one or more of a variety of effects, ranging from, but not limited to, opacification, matting, haziness, blemish hiding, and extending. Examples of inks and coatings include but are not limited to automotive coatings, protective clear coatings, interior architectural coatings, exterior architectural coatings, powder coatings, industrial coating, anti-corrosion coating, gravure inks, flexographic inks, paste inks, energy curing (UV or EB) inks, etc. Additionally, the layered pigment may be used in combination with other effect pigment or organic pigments in all ratios without limiting the scope of the invention.
The content of the layered pigment system in the coating or ink composition may be set preferably in the range of 0.1% to 50% by weight with respect to the other components of the coating system. The content of the layered pigment system may also be set in the range of 1% to 20% by weight, with respect to the other components of the coating system.
In one embodiment, the layered pigment system may be incorporated into a plastic part. In this embodiment, the plastic according to the present invention may be obtained by incorporation into the layered pigment system and into a plastic material by compounding the layered pigment system with a plastic at temperatures above the glass transition temperature of the plastic. Suitable methods for incorporating the layered pigment system may include, but are not limited to, blow molding, extrusion or other techniques used to make plastic films or articles known to those skilled in the art. In one embodiment, the layered pigment system may be incorporated into a plastic at a loading in the range of 0.01%-20% with respect to the total weight of the formulation.
In the case where the layered pigment system is incorporated into a plastic, any suitable plastic may be used including, but not limited to, polypropylene, polyethylene, polyester, polyurethane, polyacrylate, polyolefin, epoxy, polyamide, poly(vinyl chloride), and poly(vinylidene fluoride), as well as any acrylic, alkyd, fluoropolymers, and blends thereof. In the case where the layered pigment system is incorporated into a plastic it can be used in conjunction with one or more additional light diffusing or colored pigments without limiting the scope of the invention.
The present invention has been described in detail. However, it will be appreciated that those skilled in the art, upon consideration of the present disclosure, may make modifications and/or improvements on this invention that fall within the scope and spirit of the invention.
The invention is further described by the following non-limiting examples which further illustrate the invention, and are not intended, nor should they be interpreted to, limit the scope of the invention.
In a 2 L oil jacketed reactor, 26.4 g of diatomaceous earth (Imerys Imercare 18D) was added with 600 g of D.I. water. The substrate was stirred in water at 350 RPM and heated to 70° C. 83.2 g of calcium acetate hydrate and 102.6 g of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid and 65 g water was added to the reactor and stirred for 30 min. 37 g of 87% phosphoric acid was added. 50% sodium hydroxide was metered into the reactor until pH reached 10.0. Once all reagents were added, the slurry was stirred for 30 min. The slurry was filtered and washed with water. The aqueous paste was then dried at 60° C., resulting in a white powder comprised of about 51% hydroxyapatite.
In a 1 L oil jacketed reactor, 30 g of Imerys Imercare 18D was added with 400 g of D.I. water. The substrate was stirred in water at 350 RPM and heated to 55° C. 47.3 g of calcium acetate hydrate and 58.3 g of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid was added to the reactor and stirred for 30 min. 20.5 g of 87% phosphoric acid was added. 10% sodium hydroxide was metered into the reactor until pH reached 10.5. Once all reagents were added, the slurry was stirred for 30 min. The slurry was filtered and washed with water. The aqueous paste was then dried at 60° C., resulting in a white powder comprised of about 23% hydroxyapatite.
In a 2 L oil jacketed reactor, 20 g of Imerys Imercare 18D was added with 800 g of D.I. water. The substrate was stirred in water at 350 RPM and heated to 75° C. 220 g of calcium acetate hydrate and 270.9 g of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid was added and stirred for 30 min. 95.4 g of 87% phosphoric acid was added. 50% sodium hydroxide was metered into the reactor until pH reached 9.5. Once all reagents were added, the slurry was stirred 30 min. The reaction contents were removed from the reactor, filtered, and washed. The aqueous paste was then dried at 60° C., resulting in a white powder comprised of about 77% hydroxyapatite.
In a 1 L oil jacketed reactor, 10.3 g of kaolin (Imery's Imercare 02K) was added with 270 g of D.I. water, 78.8 g calcium acetate hydrate, and 48.6 g ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid. Materials were stirred at 350 RPM and heated to 75° C. Once at temperature, 35 g 86% phosphoric acid was added. 180 g of 40% sodium hydroxide solution was metered into the reactor slowly. Reaction contents were removed from the reactor, filtered, and washed. The aqueous paste was then dried at 60° C. resulting in a white powder comprising −60% hydroxyapatite.
In a 2 L oil jacketed reactor, 30 g of diatomaceous earth (Imerys Imercare 03D) was added with 600 g of D.I. water. The substrate was stirred in water at 350 RPM and heated to 60° C. 94.6 g of calcium acetate hydrate and 116.6 g of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid was added and stirred for 30 min. 42 g of 87% phosphoric acid was added. 50% sodium hydroxide was metered into the reactor until pH reached 10.0. Once all reagents were added, the slurry was stirred 30 min. The reaction contents were removed from the reactor, filtered, and washed. The aqueous paste was then dried at 60° C., resulting in a white powder comprised of about 77% hydroxyapatite.
In a 1 L oil jacketed reactor, 13.4 g of mica (C86-6105 Sun Chemical) was added with 270 g of D.I. water, 78.8 g calcium acetate hydrate, and 48.6 g ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid. Materials were stirred at 350 RPM and heated to 75° C. Once at temperature, 35 g 86% phosphoric acid was added. 180 g of 40% sodium hydroxide solution was metered into the reactor slowly. Reaction contents were removed from the reactor, filtered, and washed. The aqueous paste was then dried at 60° C. resulting in a white powder comprising −60% hydroxyapatite.
Note: All Comparative Examples lack calcium phosphate mineral, particularly hydroxyapatite.
Comparative Example 7: Imerys Imercare 18D—Diatomaceous earth (no hydroxyapatite)
Comparative Example 8: Barretts Minerals MP1538USP—talc
Comparative Example 9: Imerys Imercare 02K—Kaolin (no hydroxyapatite)
Comparative Example 10: Sun Chemical C86-6105—mica (no hydroxyapatite)
Comparative Example 11: Sun Chemical C47051—TiO2 (white pigment used for soft focus)
Comparative Example 12: Sun Chemical SpectraFlex Illusion C88-0103-25% TiO2 on talc (white pigment used for soft focus)
Comparative Example 13: Saint-Gobain Ceramics & Plastics Tres BN PUHP3002—hexagonal boron nitride (white pigment used for soft focus)
Comparative Example 14: 25% TiO2 on Imercare 18D Diatomaceous earth (white pigment used for soft focus)
Particle Size
The particle size of Examples 1-14 was measured using a Cilas 1064L. Sample was prepared in water at 5% and sonicated for 5 min. The median particle size, d50, is reported in Table 1.
Oil Absorption
Castor oil was slowly added to 1 gram of pigments in Examples 1-13 until the pigment became wetted. A spatula was used to work the oil into the dry pigment. The amount of oil required to wet 1 g of pigments was noted and is reported in Table 1. Reported values are an average of 3 measurements.
The data in Table 1 shows that the inventive Examples 1-6 have high oil absorption values of >1.0 goil/gpigment, indicating that they will be longer lasting when applied in a cosmetic film to the skin than Comparative Examples 7-12 and 14, which have oil absorption values of <1.0 goil/gpigment. Although example 13 has high oil absorption, its composition is not considered to be environmentally friendly or safe in the consumer's perception.
Surface Area
The surface area was measured by N2 adsorption using a Nova 2000e. The results of the surface area measurements are reported in Table 1. The results show that the surface area of the inventive examples is much higher than the comparative examples.
SEM Analysis
The SEM micrograph of Examples 1 and Comparative Example 7 were measured using a Vega3 Tescan. The SEM images are reported in
Soft Focus Measurements
The soft focus of the pigments is an optical phenomenon leading to blurring and obscuring of fine lines and wrinkles. The soft focus may be quantified by a method that incorporates both the reflective and transmissive properties of a pigment film.
The reflective portion of the soft focus is known as SFFR, and it is defined in Equation 1 as:
SFF
R
=L*75/L*15 (1)
where L*15 and L*75 are the L* brightness values as measured in a multiangle spectrophotometer using a 45° incident beam and measuring the reflected beam at an aspecular reflectance angle of 15° and 75°. A good soft focus effect is observed, when the SFFR is between 0.4-0.7.
The transmissive portion of the soft focus (SFFT) is defined by Equation 2 as:
SFF
T
=T
TOT
T
DW (2)
where TTOT and TDW are the total and diffuse transmittance of a film as measured by spectrophotometer with the diffuse sphere configuration. A good soft focus effect is observed, when the SFFT is above 0.50.
To measure the soft focus, the examples were dispersed into a solvent-borne cellulose acetate butyrate paint base at 10% (w/w) loading. The paints were drawn down using a 1.5 mil Bird applicator onto a black and white test card (Byk Chart 2811). The multiangle color data was measured over the black portion of the card using a BYK mac i multiangle spectrophotometer. An additional drawdown was made on a transparent Mylar sheet using a 1.5 mil Bird applicator. The direct and total transmittance between 400-700 nm were measured using an X-Rite Color i7 spectrophotometer. The SFFT and SFFR are reported in Table 2.
The data shows that Comparative Example 12, which is comprised of TiO2 coated onto talc has a soft focus effect, with both SFFR and SFFT falling into the prescribed ranges. Comparative Example 13, which is a born nitride powder marketed for soft focus appears opaque and the measured soft focus falls out of the range at this loading. In contrast, Example 1, shows a strong soft focus effect at this loading, with an SFFT that is the highest of all the samples and a visible haze effect that is indicative of soft focus.
The CC cream is made by combining the ingredients of components A and B separately, and heating each to 85° C. The warmed Component A is added to Component B and mixed using a Dispermat for 10 min. The mixture is cooled below 40° C. and Component C is added. Phase D may be added to −10 g of formulation and mixed via Centrifugal mixer at 3,000 RPM for 1 min.
| Number | Date | Country | |
|---|---|---|---|
| 63078974 | Sep 2020 | US |
| Number | Date | Country | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Parent | PCT/US21/50382 | Sep 2021 | US |
| Child | 18119957 | US |
