Patent Application
20210022966
The present invention relates to the use of a particular dry film, comprising or not comprising cosmetic active ingredient, for cosmetic applications. It also relates to a cosmetic method for the non-therapeutic treatment of skin, which method involves applying said dry film to healthy skin under certain conditions.
Today, there are different types of masks which are intended to take care of healthy skin, in particular the skin of the face: these include cream masks, mud masks, gel masks, and peel-off masks. All of these masks are chosen depending on the type of skin. But these masks contain little or no cosmetic active ingredients. There are also sheet masks, inspired by Asian beauty rituals, which contain an ultra-fine material impregnated with a lotion. Even though some of these masks claim the presence of active agents in their composition, there is no evidence as to the bioavailability of the active ingredient in the skin.
One aim of the invention is therefore to provide a dry cosmetic film that is capable of acting on healthy skin and, when it contains a cosmetic active ingredient, of promoting the penetration of said active ingredient into the skin in a significant amount and/or more rapidly, i.e. to improve the dermal bioavailability of said active ingredient.
Orodispersible patches are known in the medical field for improving the bioavailability of therapeutic active ingredients. These medical devices have the specific feature of being instantly soluble upon contact with an aqueous medium and thus allowing the medicinal active ingredient to be taken directly in the mouth of patients, without water. This type of orodispersible patch, however, cannot be applied to the skin as a mask, as it will immediately disintegrate and is therefore not suitable.
In order to achieve the aim, the invention therefore proposes another solution, specifically the use of a particular dry film for topical cosmetic applications.
Dressings in film form already exist. One example is patent FR3029103, which discloses a soluble adhesive dressing in the form of a soluble film consisting of a natural polymer and a high mineral content, but which does not disclose and does not demonstrate any particular cosmetic application.
The film according to the invention has the particular feature of being in the form of a dry film, i.e. a form which is rarely developed in products to be applied to the skin, and of being able to be enriched with cosmetic active ingredients.
The constitution of this dry film very advantageously allows cosmetic effects to be obtained when applied to the skin without active ingredient, and, when said film does contain active ingredients, considerably promotes the bioavailability of said ingredients in the skin and therefore their functionality in the skin.
In particular, the invention relates to the use of a dry film having a water activity of less than 0.6, for a topical cosmetic treatment of healthy skin (i.e. non-therapeutic), which dry film comprises:
The particular useful dry film according to the invention can comprise other constituents and in particular at least one active ingredient.
Advantageously, a use of this kind can make it possible to obtain both an immediate effect and a medium- and long-term effect.
The invention also relates to a cosmetic method for the non-therapeutic treatment of skin, which involves applying a dry film having a water activity of less than 0.6 to the skin at least once for between 5 and 30 minutes, said dry film comprising:
Other features and advantages will become apparent from the detailed description of the invention which follows.
“Polymer of natural origin” or “biopolymer,” within the meaning of the invention, is understood to mean polymers derived from natural raw materials, as opposed to synthetic polymers which are obtained by chemical synthesis.
“Film,” within the meaning of the invention, is understood to mean a cosmetic product which is applied momentarily to the skin and which is removed after a certain application time, and which exhibits a cosmetic or dermocosmetic effect. It may be a face mask, for example.
“Cosmetic active ingredient” or “cosmetic active agent” or “active ingredient” or “active agent,” within the meaning of the invention, is understood to mean one or more molecules which are cosmetically effective when applied to the skin.
“Compatible with a topical cosmetic application,” within the meaning of the invention, is understood to mean that the agent must not be harmful to the skin and trigger undesirable effects as a result of its presence in the composition. It is therefore a cosmetically acceptable product as defined in European Regulation No. 1223/2009, which relates to cosmetic products.
“Non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment of the skin,” within the meaning of the invention, is understood to mean a cosmetic treatment on healthy skin.
“Soothing cosmetic treatment,” within the meaning of the invention, is understood to mean a cosmetic treatment which relieves itching, discomfort and irritations of the skin. It is therefore a treatment for comfort which does not aim to treat a skin disease by restoring health.
“Water content” of the dry film is understood to mean the quantity of liquid water contained in the film (weight ratio of water to the total weight of the film).
The invention relates to the use of a dry and soluble film having a water activity of less than 0.6, for a non-therapeutic topical cosmetic treatment of healthy skin, which dry film comprises:
In particular, the invention relates to the use of a dry and soluble film of this kind for one or more of the following specific cosmetic applications:
The use according to the invention preferably relates to at least one use for a moisturizing and/or anti-sebum effect and optionally one or more other specific cosmetic applications, in particular selected from those mentioned above.
The dry and soluble useful film according to the invention can exhibit these cosmetic effects without containing an active ingredient, but these effects can be reinforced by the presence of one or more cosmetic active ingredients in the film. This is because the specific constitution and characteristics of the dry film make it possible to promote the transdermal bioavailability of the active ingredients in significant quantities. Due to its constitution and its characteristic of a dry film having a water activity of less than 0.6, said film has special mechanical properties which ensure strength and flexibility for optimal application to the skin and easy and simple use.
The film preferably has a water activity of less than 0.6. This parameter, well known to a person skilled in the art, makes it possible to identify the availability of water in the material. It can be measured by means of a device known as an AW meter, such as a LabSwift-AW meter. The value is unitless and between 0 and 1.
The water content of the dry and soluble film of which the cosmetic use is the subject of the invention is preferably less than 6 wt. % of the total weight of the dry film. This parameter is different from the water activity and is measured by successive weighings before and after drying in an oven.
The solubility of the dry film of which the cosmetic use is the subject of the invention is preferably determined as follows: a round of film having a diameter of 3.5 cm is placed in 20 ml of water at 25° C. while stirring at 200 rpm. A film is considered to be soluble within the meaning of the invention when it is completely dissolved in less than an hour.
The film is preferably:
According to the invention, the dry film, advantageously when applied to the skin:
This is the case without active ingredient or with any cosmetic active ingredient. It can also exhibit additional cosmetic effects depending on the cosmetic effectiveness of the active ingredient(s) present in the film.
The invention therefore also relates to the use of a film on skin to promote the transdermal penetration of the cosmetic active ingredient(s) present in the film. This is because, when applied to the skin, the film according to the invention allows the active ingredients which it contains to have greater bioavailability in the skin by comparison with that obtained with the cosmetic or dermocosmetic masks of the prior art.
The dry and soluble film according to the invention can also be used in particular for:
The dry and soluble film used according to the invention preferably comprises from 0.5 to 25% of at least one cosmetic active ingredient. The cosmetic active ingredient(s) can be selected from known or unknown cosmetic active ingredients, and in particular said film comprises at least one active ingredient selected from cosmetic active ingredients which moisturize and/or smooth and/or improve the radiance of the complexion and/or have an anti-sebum and/or anti-wrinkle and/or anti-aging and/or depigmenting and/or anti-dark circles and/or anti-under-eye puffiness and/or anti-skin imperfections and/or soothing and/or anti-cellulite effect.
The use can be for an immediate and optionally single effect, or for a cure effect.
The dry and soluble film of which the cosmetic use is the subject of the invention preferably comprises at least one mineral filler which is selected from kaolin, talc, sodium or calcium montmorillonite, mica, illite, perlite, diatom, potassium salts, sodium salts or calcium salts, and mixtures thereof. The mineral filler can represent at least 5 wt. % of the dry film, preferably between 5% and 75%. These mineral fillers are not in the form of nanoparticles, and have not been chemically modified.
The polymer(s) of natural origin is/are selected from polymers extracted from plants or algae or microorganisms. Said polymer is preferably a polysaccharide of natural origin, and the polymer(s) of natural origin present in the dry useful film according to the invention are preferably selected from pullulan, cellulose, chitosan, acacia gum, guar gum, tara gum, gellan gum, konjac gum, xanthan gum, pectin, maltodextrin, cyclodextrins, polysaccharides, carrageenans, and mixtures thereof. The content of polymers of natural origin in the dry film is preferably greater than 15 wt. % of the dry film, and preferably between 15 and 75 wt. % of the dry film.
The polymers of natural origin are preferably soluble in water.
The dry and soluble film as described above also comprises other constituents and in particular:
However, the dry and soluble film does not comprise hydrophobic polymers such as polyisobutylenes, vinyl ether polymer or polysiloxanes.
In the context of the use of the dry and soluble film as described above, the invention is also specifically aimed at a cosmetic method for the non-therapeutic treatment of skin, which involves applying a useful film according to the invention to the skin at least once for between 5 and 30 minutes, preferably for an effect which moisturizes and/or smooths and/or improves the radiance of the complexion and/or for an anti-sebum and/or anti-wrinkle and/or anti-aging and/or depigmenting and/or anti-dark circles and/or anti-under-eye puffiness and/or anti-skin imperfections and/or soothing and/or anti-cellulite effect. The skin is preferably dampened before the film is applied.
A particularly suitable application time is between 10 and 30 minutes.
The film can be applied to the face for use as a mask, for example, but can also be applied to any other part of the body such as regions which have cellulite or imperfections. The film must therefore have mechanical properties which allow it to match any shape of the face or body. It must be flexible in order to be easily applied to the face or body. It must be strong so as to not tear during handling when being placed on the skin. It must be resilient to adapt to all shapes (hollows, reliefs) of the skin.
In order to obtain a cumulative effect, i.e. a cure effect, it is preferable to apply the film to the skin at least twice a week.
The invention will now be illustrated by examples of dry films and test results demonstrating the cosmetic effectiveness of said films.
A number of examples of films are presented.
This example presents various films which either do not comprise active ingredient or comprise one or two active ingredients.
Film A does not contain an active ingredient.
Film B contains an active ingredient, namely di- and tripeptides. The compositions of the films are set out below:
This example presents various films which either do not comprise active ingredient or comprise one or two active ingredients.
Film A does not contain an active ingredient.
Film B contains an active ingredient, namely glucose-fructose and galactoxylan oligosaccharides.
Film C contains an active ingredient, namely peptides.
Film D contains an active ingredient, namely sulfated polygalactomannans and galactans.
The compositions of the films are set out below:
This film contains an active ingredient, namely glucose-fructose oligosaccharides. The composition of said film is set out below:
This film contains an active ingredient, namely glucose-fructose oligosaccharides. The composition of said film is set out below:
This film contains an active ingredient, namely glucose-fructose oligosaccharides. The composition of said film is set out below:
This example presents various films which either do not comprise active ingredient or comprise one or two active ingredients.
Film A does not contain an active ingredient.
Film B contains an active ingredient, namely di- and tripeptides.
Film C contains an active ingredient, namely polyphenolic acids.
The compositions of the films are set out below:
This film contains an active ingredient, namely glucose-fructose oligosaccharides. The composition of said film is set out below:
The film of this example contains two active ingredients, namely galactoxylan and glucose-fructose oligosaccharides. The composition of said film is set out below:
This film contains two active ingredients, namely galactoxylan and glucose-fructose oligosaccharides. The composition of said film is set out below:
This example film contains two active ingredients, namely peptides and glucose-fructose oligosaccharides. The composition of said film is set out below:
This example presents various films which either do not comprise active ingredient or comprise one or two active ingredients.
Film A does not contain an active ingredient.
Film B contains two active ingredients, namely galactoxylan and glucose-fructose oligosaccharides.
Film C contains an active ingredient, namely a glucose, fructose and galacturonic acid oligosaccharide.
Film D contains an active ingredient, namely galactomannan oligosaccharides.
Film E contains an active ingredient, namely mannan polysaccharides.
The compositions of the films are set out below:
This film contains two active ingredients, namely galactoxylan and glucose-fructose oligosaccharides. The composition of said film is set out below:
This film does not contain any active ingredient. The composition of said film is set out below:
This film does not contain any active ingredient. The composition of said film is set out below:
This film does not contain any active ingredient. The composition of said film is set out below:
This example film contains two active ingredients, namely peptides and glucose-fructose oligosaccharides. The composition of said film is set out below:
This example film contains two active ingredients, namely polyphenols and oligofructosans. The composition of said film is set out below:
The formulas of these masks of the prior art are also produced:
The Young's modulus of the films according to the invention of a number aforementioned examples and those corresponding to the prior art (FR3029103, films denoted D, E and F) were measured on a TAXplus texture analyzer.
The physical characteristics obtained by the TAXplus texture analyzer are as follows:
Young's modulus is a measure which therefore makes the characteristics of the films redundant. The lower the value, the more flexible the film.
Energy corresponds to the energy required to break the film.
Elongation is the film's ability to stretch without breaking.
The results are shown in the table below.
Films D, E and F are films corresponding to those described in FR3029103.
Film D is the most flexible of the films according to the prior art (the Young's modulus gives a value of 7.3, which is much lower than that of films E and F), but it breaks more quickly (energy required to break=4 N sec) and is not very resilient (elongation of 4.5 mm).
Examples 1, 2, 4, 6, 10 and 11 of the present invention are all characterized by a Young's modulus lower than that of the films of the prior art. They are therefore more flexible. However, the energy required to break all of them is higher than that according to the prior art. They are therefore stronger. Finally, their elongation without breaking is higher than for the films of the prior art. They are therefore more extendable.
In order to evaluate the bioavailability properties of the active ingredients in the films, a number of formulas have been produced.
The ability of a film to make an active agent available in the skin was studied ex-vivo after depositing the tested film containing the active agent on the surface of a pig ear skin. This study is based on the standard for transcutaneous penetration, OECD 428.
The film containing the active agent of which the bioavailability is being studied is deposited on the skin for 10 to 20 minutes. After 10 to 20 minutes of contact, the film is removed and the molecules present on the surface of the skin are eliminated. The layers of the stratum corneum of the skin are then collected and the active agent present in these layers is extracted and quantified; this corresponds to the content of the active agent present in the stratum corneum.
Each test is carried out 3 times on 6 different skins.
The dosage of the active agent in the samples is carried out according to a method adapted to the nature of the active agent being tested, such as by fluorometry, chromatography, or any other analytical method suitable for the dosage of the selected active agent.
The results are expressed as a percentage of active agent present in the stratum corneum relative to the quantity of active agent deposited on the skin.
A person skilled in the art considers that a film allows bioavailability of an active ingredient when the bioavailability thereof in the stratum corneum is at least 5%.
For the purposes of comparing with standard formulas on the market, the three classic formulas of masks of the prior art presented in the examples were selected in order to study the bioavailability of the active ingredients which they contain; these are a cream mask, a hydrogel mask and a fabric mask+lotion.
The average of the percentages of availability of an active agent in the stratum corneum after the masks of the prior art have been applied to the skin for 10 to 20 minutes are as follows:
The different formulas of the masks on the market allow low bioavailability of the active agent in the stratum corneum. Moreover, no variation is observed between the different formulas, whether of the cream mask, sheet mask+lotion or hydrogel mask type.
Different dry films according to the invention were tested. The formulas have been described previously.
It can be seen that all of these films according to the invention have the ability to make the active ingredient they contain available in the stratum corneum.
It is noted that the nature of the active agent has little influence on the availability of the active agent in the stratum corneum. All of the active agents are bioavailable in the skin when applied by the film.
The functionality on the skin of different films containing or not containing different active ingredients, i.e. the performances in terms of cosmetic effectiveness of the films, was evaluated on volunteers. The cosmetic evaluation of the films focused on the effect of moisturizing or smoothing or improving the radiance or lightening/depigmenting or the anti-seborrheic or anti-aging effect. The effects were also studied immediately, after the application of a single film, or over the long term after a cure treatment of a plurality of films.
The studies were carried out successively to the use of the films.
The volunteers applied the film to the face or part of the face for 10 to 20 minutes. The moisturizing, smoothing, complexion radiance, anti-seborrhea and anti-wrinkle effects were evaluated immediately after a single film to evaluate the immediate effect, and/or after the application of 8 films spread over 28 days to evaluate the long-term effect.
For the different studies the selection criteria were as follows:
Additional criteria relating to the skin of the volunteers were considered depending on the nature of the study.
Evaluation of the Moisturizing Effect
This study involves evaluating the immediate moisturizing effect of the film not containing or containing an active ingredient. The rate of hydration was measured on the forehead using a MoistureMeter-D® from Delfin Technologies.
The MoistureMeter D° generates a high frequency electromagnetic wave that is sent by a probe to the skin. The reflected electromagnetic wave is recorded, and a dielectric constant proportional to the water content of the tissue measured is thus obtained.
The higher the value of this constant, the greater the water content of the tissue. The probe used to carry out the measurements is the XS5 probe which mainly measures the water content of the epidermis at the effective measuring depth of 0.5 mm.
12 to 21 volunteers applied one of the films to the face for 10 minutes. The measurements were taken before and after removal of the film.
The results are shown in the following table:
After using a dry film that does or does not contain active ingredient, the skin hydration rate is significantly increased. As a result of applying the film for 10 minutes, the superficial layers of the skin were hydrated.
Evaluation of the Anti-Seborrhea Effect
The anti-seborrhea effect is evaluated by measuring the level of sebum on the surface of the skin. The sebum level was measured on the forehead before and after application of the film. The measurements were carried out using an MPA 580® handset. The MPA580® allows direct measurement of sebaceous secretion. The plastics film contained in a cartridge is translucent and matte (such as frosted glass). Upon contact with sebum, this film becomes transparent depending on the amount of sebum located on the surface of the skin. The sebum level is determined by inserting the head of the cartridge into the MPA580® handset. A cell then analyzes the transparency of the film. The results are displayed in μg of sebum/cm2 of skin.
The measurements were taken before applying the film and 10 minutes after removing the film. The different films were tested by 11 to 21 volunteers who have a sebum level greater than 150.
The results are as follows:
As a result of applying a dry film for 10 minutes, the production of sebum is reduced significantly, regardless of whether or not the film contains an active ingredient.
The users noted that the application of such films significantly limits the shiny appearance of the skin that is characteristic of people with oily skin (−44%), and tends to tighten the pore size by 12%.
Evaluation of the Smoothing Effect
The smoothing effect was evaluated by analyzing the cutaneous microrelief of crow's feet by means of fringe projection, using a device dedicated to 3D measurement of cutaneous relief (Eotech). This system (DermaTOP 1303) comprises a measurement sensor which combines a light fringe projector and a high-resolution CCD camera linked to Optocat acquisition software (Eotech).
A system for repositioning the head of the volunteer according to the 3 axes of movement makes it possible to find the same measurement zone at different times in the study.
The effect of the film is measured in a region of interest automatically cut out from the original acquisition.
The microrelief of the skin is studied using the 3D roughness parameter (Sa) which represents the arithmetic mean of surface roughness.
The software used is OPTOCAT, EOTECH software. A decrease in these different parameters is characteristic of a smoothing of the studied surface.
The volunteers were asked to subjectively evaluate this effect using closed questions with the answers (agree, tend to agree, tend to disagree and disagree):
This first study involves evaluating the immediate effect of the film. 12 to 20 volunteers applied the film to the face for 20 minutes. The measurements were taken before and 30 minutes after removing the film.
The results are shown in the following table:
After using a film, the Sa parameter which is characteristic of the roughness of the cutaneous microrelief is reduced. As a result of applying the film for 20 minutes, the cutaneous microrelief of the volunteers is smoothed. The film provides instant smoothing and refines the skin texture.
b. Long-Term Effect
This study consists in evaluating the long-term effect of the film. 12 to 20 volunteers used 8 films in 28 days. Each film was applied to the face for 20 minutes. The measurements were taken before the first film and the day after the eighth film.
The results are as follows:
After a cure treatment of 8 smoothing films, the parameter Sa which is characteristic of the roughness of the cutaneous microrelief is reduced by 7.1%. As a result of the cure treatment of 8 films, the cutaneous microrelief of the volunteers is lastingly smoothed.
According to 88% of volunteers, the film smooths their skin in a lasting way and limits skin imperfections.
Evaluation of the Radiant Effect on the Complexion
The radiance of the complexion was evaluated blindly by two experts previously trained to judge different parameters that are representative of the radiance of the complexion.
The evaluation is carried out on the basis of score scales (from 1 to 10) and the following parameters have been identified:
These different parameters are evaluated in the regions of the cheekbones, forehead, chin and eyes.
The volunteers were asked to subjectively evaluate this effect using closed questions with the answers (agree, tend to agree, tend to disagree and disagree):
This first study involves evaluating the immediate effect of the film comprising or not comprising active ingredient. 15 to 20 volunteers applied the film to the face for 20 minutes.
The measurements were taken before and 30 minutes after removing the film.
The results are shown in the following table:
After using a film, the radiance of the skin of the volunteers is significantly improved up to 8.9%, and the healthy glow effect up to 4.9%.
As a result of applying the film for 20 minutes, the film improves the healthy glow effect and the radiance of the skin of the volunteers.
According to at least 69% of the volunteers, the film provides an immediate boost of radiance and revives the radiance of the complexion.
b. Long-Term Effect
This study consists in evaluating the long-term effect of the film. 15 to 20 volunteers used 8 films in 28 days. Each film was applied to the face for 20 minutes. The measurements were taken before the first film and the day after the eighth film.
The results are as follows:
After a cure treatment of 8 films, the healthy glow effect of the volunteers is significantly improved by 6.6%, the radiant complexion improved by 13.8% and the dull complexion decreased by 10.3%.
The cure treatment of 8 films helped to improve the healthy glow effect and radiant complexion and reduce the dull complexion of the volunteers' skin.
According to 81% of volunteers, the cure treatment of 8 films gives permanent radiance to their skin and 94% of the volunteers indicated that the cure treatment of 8 films makes their skin more homogeneous.
Evaluation of the Immediate Anti-Wrinkle Effect
The immediate anti-wrinkle effect was evaluated by analyzing the depth of the main wrinkle on the crow's feet. Standardized photographs of the face were taken under reproducible lighting conditions using a VISIA-CR system (Canfield). Displaying the initial images at the different measurement times and using a marking film make it possible to ensure the correct repositioning of the subjects at different times in the study.
A panel composed of 3 people then evaluated the stage of wrinkles of the crow's feet in each photo on a previously defined score scale. Each of the photos had been previously cut, coded and randomized in order to carry out this completely blind evaluation.
The wrinkles of the crow's feet were evaluated according to the following recommendations: evaluate the depth of the main wrinkle, disregard the number of wrinkles, disregard the width of the wrinkles, and disregard any scars. The volunteers were asked to evaluate the stage of the wrinkles of their crow's feet using the scale above by looking at themselves in a mirror. This evaluation was carried out before and after using the film.
The study involves evaluating the immediate effect of the film for its immediate anti-wrinkle effect. 12 to 20 volunteers applied the film to the face for 20 minutes. Self-assessments were performed before and 30 minutes after removing the film.
The results are shown in the following table:
After using a film, the experts, like the volunteers, assessed that the wrinkles of the crow's feet were smoothed out. The stage of wrinkles decreased significantly.
The volunteers also indicated that the film makes the skin smoother, more hydrated and softer for 92% of the volunteers. The film lifts for 75% of the volunteers. For 92% of the volunteers, the film reduced wrinkles of the eye contour and faded fine lines and wrinkles.
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| FR 1870340 | Mar 2018 | FR | national |
This application is the U.S. National phase application corresponding to PCT/EP2019/057527 which was assigned an international filing date of Mar. 26, 2019 and associated with publication WO 2019/185597 and which claims priority to French Patent Application FR 1870340 filed Mar. 26, 2018, the entire disclosures of which are expressly incorporated herein by reference.
| Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/EP2019/057527 | 3/26/2019 | WO | 00 |
