Use of an Acmella Oleracea Extract for the Botox-Like Effect Thereof in an Anti-Wrinkle Cosmetic Composition

Abstract
Spilanthol, in the form of an Acmella oleracea extract, inhibits contractions in subcutaneous muscles, notably those of the face, and can be used as an anti-wrinkle product. A cosmetic treatment procedure for wrinkles consists of locally or subcutaneously applying an effective quantity of a composition based on spilanthol pure or in the form of an Acmella oleracea extract.
Description
EXAMPLE 1
Production of an Acmella oleracea Extract

The whole dry plant comes from South America or more generally from tropical countries. This plant is ground until a powdered is obtained.


The extraction of the ground plant is performed in a mixture of ethanol at 96.2° H2O (80/20); volume/volume at ambient temperature subjected to magnetic stirring and protected from light, for 6 hours.


The extract is then filtered through a nylon filter then through a cellulose membrane (to 0.22 microns). In example 2, it is then lyophilised to be used diluted to 50% in maltodextrine.


EXAMPLE 2

1. Objective of the Study


To assess the ability of purified spilanthol and an Acmella oleracea extract to produce a reversible blockage of muscular contractions.


2. General Methodology


Nerve-Muscle Model


Nerve-muscle co-culture is a culture model which is used to recreate human striated muscle cell innervation with spinal cord and spinal ganglion explants from rat embryos. After 21 days of culture, the muscle fibres formed contract spontaneously.


The nerve-muscle co-culture model is a model suited to studying the influence of a substance on muscle contraction frequency, as well as to studying the recuperation of contractile activity after blockage of muscle contractions by a substance.


Carisprodol at 1 mM is used as a positive control for reversible blockage of muscle contractions.


Measurement of the Frequency of Contractions


For each selected culture well, a muscle fibre showing regular contractions is referenced.


Using automated counting software, the number of contractions is counted for 30 seconds for each measurement period: before incubation (pre-incubation frequency), during incubation and during the contractile activity recuperation phase after elimination of the substance.


Interpretation of the Results


Each measure was taken in triplicate (in 3 different wells) and an activity is considered to be significant when at least 2 fibres out of 3 show the same effect according to the following modulation range:


When the frequency of contractions is greater than 120% of the pre-incubation frequency before adding the substance, we speak of an increase in the frequency of contractions, indicated by +. When the frequency becomes too high to be measurable, we speak of vibration, indicated by Vib.


When the frequency of contractions is between 80% and 120% compared to the pre-incubation frequency before adding the substance, it is not modified and is indicated by 0.


When the frequency of contractions is less than 80% of the pre-incubation frequency before adding the substance, we speak of a decrease in the frequency of contractions, indicated by—or block (blockage) if it is 0%.


We speak of complete recuperation of contractile activity after blockage when at least 2 fibres out of 3 return to a frequency of contraction greater than or equal to 80% of the pre-incubation frequency of contraction, indicated by +.


We speak of incomplete recuperation of contractile activity after blockage when at least 2 fibres out of 3 return to a frequency of contraction between 10 and 80% of the pre-incubation frequency of contraction, indicated by +/−.


3. Substances Studied


Nature and origin of the substance:


- Lyophilised extract of the aerial portions (containing flower buds) of Acmella oleracea diluted to 50% in maltodextrine.


Spilanthol purified to 97% from an Acmella oleracea extract.


4. Study Process


a/ Pure Spilanthol


The frequency of contraction is determined after 5 minutes, 1 hour and 6 hours of incubation with the substance. At 6 hours, the substance is eliminated and recuperation of contractile activity is studied 1 hour and 24 hours later.


b/ Acmella oleracea Extract


The frequency of contraction is determined (at 5 minutes, 1 hour and 6 hours) until a blockage of contractions is obtained with the substance. Once blockage is achieved, the substance is eliminated and recuperation of contractile activity is studied at 1 hour, 4 hours and 24 hours.


5. Results


Pure Spilanthol
















Frequency of




contractions (%)
Interpretation












Incubation
Recuperation

Recuperation



without
after
Incubation
after



washout
washout
without washout
washout


















Substance
[C]
5 min
1 h
6 h
1 h
24 h
5 min
1 h
6 h
1 h
24 h





















Pure
 40 × 10−5%
0
0
0
0
0
block
block
block
block
block


spilanthol

0
0
0
0
37
block
block
block
block
+/−




0
0
0
0
0
block
block
block
block
block



160 × 10−5%
0
0
0
0
0
block
block
block
block
block




7
0
4
0
0

block

block
block




0
0
0
0
0
block
block
block
block
block









At the concentrations (40×110% and 160×10−5%), pure spilanthol blocks muscle contractions after 5 minutes of incubation. The blockage is maintained until 6 hours and the fibres remain blocked for 24 hours after elimination of the substance.



Acmella oleracea Extract
















Frequency of contractions (%)
Interpretation












Incubation
Recuperation
Incubation
Recuperation



without washout
after washout
without washout
after washout




















Substance
[C]
5 min
1 h
6 h
1 h
4 h
24 h
5 min
1 h
6 h
1 h
4 h
24 h





















Extract
  600 × 10−5%
Vib
0
0
114
Not tested
+
block
block
+
Not tested




Vib
Vib
0
171

+
+
block
+




400
Vib
Vib
194

+
+
+
+

















1,200 × 10−5%
0
Not tested
47
Not tested
block
Not tested
+/−
Not tested




5

104



+




0

110

block

+



2,400 × 10−5%
63
Not tested
97
Not tested

Not tested
+
Not tested




0

145

block

+




0

126

block

+









At a concentration of 600×10−5%, the extract blocks the frequency of contraction of muscle fibres after 6 hours of incubation. After washout of the cultures, the muscle fibres totally recuperate their contractile activity in 1 hour.


At concentrations of 1,200×10−5% and 2,400×10−5%, the extract blocks the frequency of contraction of muscle fibres after 5 minutes of incubation. After washout of the cultures, the muscle fibres totally recuperate their contractile activity in 1 hour.


6. Conclusion


Under the conditions of the study, the Acmella oleracea extract and the spilanthol compound lead to a blockage of muscle contractions. Recuperation of contractile activity is observed in presence of the plant extract but not observed in presence of spilanthol. This difference should probably be attributed to a difference in the protocol since the nerve-muscle system was only incubated for 5 minutes in presence of the extract compared to 6 hours in presence of pure spilanthol.


The anti-wrinkle effect of botulinum toxin lies in its ability to inhibit subcutaneous muscle contractions considered to be responsible for expression lines (deep wrinkles); the substances tested, given their ability to inhibit contractile activity (or botox-like effect), have the same anti-wrinkle potential as botulinum toxin.


EXAMPLE 3

Anti-Wrinkle Day Cream
















Composition
Quantity (%)



















Steareth-21
2.00



Steareth-2
3.00



Stearic acid
1.00



Cyclopentasiloxane
3.00



Octyldodecyl myristate
2.00



Cetylic alcohol
1.00



Glycerol stearate
0.50



Octyl methoxycinnamate
5.00



Benzophenone-3
2.00



Aluminium starch octenylsuccinate
3.00



Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben,
1.00



Butylparaben,



Ethylparaben, Propylparaben



Carbomer
0.15



Xanthan gum
0.30



Disodium EDTA
0.05



Glycerine
3.00



Sodium hydroxide (10% solution)
0.30



Dry Acmella oleracea extract
2.00



Ethanol
3.00



Tocopherol acetate
0.50



Fragrance
0.40










Water
to 100










Make-Up Foundation













Composition
Quantity (%)
















Glycerol Stearate, Propylene Glycol Stearate,
5


Glycerol Isostearate, Propylene Glycol


Isostearate, Oleth-25, Ceteth-25


Glycerol Dibehenate, Tribehenin,Glycerol Behenate
1


Ethoxydiglycol oleate
7.5


Isostearyl isostearate
5


Cetearyl alcohol
2


Dimethicone
5


Tocopheryl Acetate
0.5


Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben,
0.6


Propylparaben, Isobutylparaben


Xanthan gum
0.4


Microcrystalline cellulose, cellulose gum
1.5


Titanium dioxide
6.6


Metal oxides (yellow pigment)
1.55


Metal oxides (red pigment)
0.43


Metal oxides (black pigment)
0.11


Ethoxydiglycol oleate
2.5


Dimethicone, Dimethiconol
3


Alcohol
5


Dry Acmella oleracea extract
2








Water
to 100









O/W Emulsion
















Composition
Quantity (%)



















Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben,
1



Butylparaben, Ethylparaben,



Propylparaben



Carbomer
0.4



Glycerine
3



Xanthan gum
0.1



Polysorbate-60
0.9



Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate
2.1



Cetyl Alcohol
2.6



Paraffin Oil
7.5



Isopropyl Myristate
7.5



Ethoxydiglycol
5



Dry Acmella oleracea extract
1



Fragrance
0.2



Triethanolamine
0.3










Water
to 100










W/O Emulsion
















Composition
Quantity (%)



















Glycerine
3



Propylene Glycol, Diazolidinyl Urea,
1



Methylparaben, Propylparaben



Magnesium Sulphate
0.7



Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol
2.5



Isohexadecane
5



Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
5



Dimethicone
5



Alcohol
5



Dry Acmella oleracea extract
2



Fragrance
0.1










Water
to 100










Microemulsion
















Composition
Quantity (%)



















PEG-8 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides
13.33



Polyglyceryl-6 Dioleate
8.67



Isostearyl isostearate
4



Cyclomethicone
2.3



Diisopropyl Adipate
1.6



Octyldodecanol
2



PPG-5 Ceteth-20
2



Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben,
0.4



Butylparaben,



Ethylparaben, Propylparaben



Ethoxydiglycol
2



Dry Acmella oleracea extract
1










Water
to 100










W/O/W Multiple Emulsion
















Composition
Quantity (%)



















PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate
2.4



Isohexadecane
9



PPG-15 Stearyl Ether
4.5



Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
4.5



Magnesium Sulphate
0.82



Propylene Glycol, Diazolidinyl
1.2



Urea, Methylparaben,



Propylparaben



Dry Acmella oleracea extract
2



Poloxamer 407
2



Glycerine
3



Xanhan gum
0.7



Fragrance
0.2










Water
to 100









Claims
  • 1-8. (canceled)
  • 9. A method for removing wrinkles comprising applying an anti-wrinkle composition containing spilanthol to epidermal tissue.
  • 10. The method according to claim 9, wherein said applying includes at least one of topical application and subcutaneous application.
  • 11. The method according to claim 9, wherein said composition containing spilanthol comprises an Acmella oleracea extract.
  • 12. The method according to claim 11, wherein said Acmella oleracea extract is an extract of Acmella oleracea flower buds.
  • 13. The method according to claim 9, wherein said anti-wrinkle composition comprises 0.005 weight (wt) % to 20 wt % of dry Acmella oleracea extract.
  • 14. The method according to claim 9, wherein said anti-wrinkle composition comprises 0.1 weight (wt) % to 20 wt % of liquid Acmella oleracea extract.
  • 15. The method according to claim 9, wherein said anti-wrinkle composition includes 0.05 wt % to 5 wt % of spilanthol.
  • 16. The method according to claim 11, wherein said Acmella oleracea extract is an aqueous, alcoholic or mixed aqueous/alcoholic extract of Acmella oleracea flower buds.
Priority Claims (1)
Number Date Country Kind
0450093 Jan 2004 FR national
PCT Information
Filing Document Filing Date Country Kind 371c Date
PCT/FR05/50005 1/4/2005 WO 00 6/20/2006