This application is a national phase application under 35 U.S.C. 371 of PCT/EP01/09198, filed Aug. 9, 2001.
This invention relates to a novel use of cationic surfactants and preparations according to this novel use.
Due to their composition, many cosmetic products are susceptible to act as a culture medium for microorganisms, and this can cause possible alterations to the cosmetic preparation and constitute a possible risk to human heath as well. Thus, a cosmetic composition requires good protection against microbiological contamination.
A well-known substance used for the protection against microorganisms is a cationic surfactant derived from lauric acid and arginine, in particular, the ethyl ester of the lauramide of the arginine monohydrochloride, hereafter named LAE. The chemical structure is described in the following formula:
This compound is remarkable for its activity against different microorganisms, such as bacteria, fungi and yeasts and its use is known in food and feed preparations. The compound is well-known to be harmless to animals and humans. The minimum inhibitory concentrations of LAE are shown in the following table 1.
Arthrobacter oxydans ATCC 8010
Bacillus cereus var mycoide ATCC 11778
Bacillus subtilis ATCC 6633
Clostridium perfringens ATCC 77454
Listeria monocytogenes ATCC 7644
Staphylococcus aureus ATCC 6538
Micrococcus luteus ATCC 9631
Lactobacillus delbrueckii ssp lactis CECT 372
Leuconostoc mesenteroides CETC 912
Alcaligenes faecalis ATCC 8750
Bordetella bronchiseptica ATCC 4617
Citrobacter freundii ATCC 22636
Enterobacter aerogenes CECT 689
Escherichia coli ATCC 8739
Escherichia coli 0157H7
Klebsiella pneumoniae var pneumoniae
Proteus mirabilis CECT 170
Pseudomonas aeruginosa ATCC 9027
Salmonella typhimurium ATCC 16028
Serratia marcenses CECT 274
Mycobacterium phlei ATCC 41423
Aspergillus niger ATCC 14604
Aureobasidium pullulans ATCC 9348
Gliocadium virens ATCC 4645
Chaetonium globosum ATCC 6205
Penicillium chrysogenum CECT 2802
Penicillium funiculosum CECT 2914
Candida albicans ATCC 10231
Rhodotorula rubra CECT 1158
Saccharomyces cerevisiae ATCC 9763
It has now been detected that the product LAE and related compounds are particularly suitable to be used in cosmetic preparations.
The use of the invention relates to cationic surfactants derived from the condensation of fatty acids and esterified dibasic amino acids, according to the following formula:
where:
X− is Br−, Cl−, or HSO4−
R1: is a linear alkyl chain from a saturated fatty acid or hydroxyacid from 8 to 14 atoms of carbon bonded to the α-amino acid group through an amidic bond.
R2: is a linear or branched alkyl chain from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or an aromatic group.
R3: is:
and n can be from 0 to 4.
The most preferred compound of the above class of compounds is LAE.
LAE can be used in cosmetic formulations and preparations that are applied in the epidermis, the capillary system, lips, nails, external genital organs, or in the teeth and mouth cavity mucous, in order to clean, perfume, or modify its aspect and/or change corporal smells and/or protect a good physical fitness. At the same time LAE inhibits the growth of microorganisms in the cosmetic formulations and preparations in which they are susceptible to develop, and also from the microorganisms that can be introduced by the practical use of the customer.
The compositions of the invention have a medium which is compatible with the skin, the mucous membranes, and hair. These compositions can have the classical components such as: fatty compounds such as mineral oil, animals oil, vegetal oil, synthesis and silicon oils, and also alcohols, fatty acids and waxes; organic solvents, surface active agents, solubilizers and ionic and non ionic emulsifiers, thickening agents and jellying hydrophilic agents such as carboxyvinylic polymers (e.g. carbomer), acrylic copolymers (e.g. acrylates and alkylacrylates), polyacrylamides, polysaccharides, natural gums (e.g. xanthan gum); thickening agents and jellying lipophilic agents such as modified clays (e.g. bentonite), fatty acid metallic salts, hydrophobic silica and polyethylene; perfumes and essential oils; softening agents; excipients; antioxidants; sequestering agents; opacifiers; filters; colouring compounds which may be either hydrosoluble or liposoluble, and pigments; and hydrophilic or lipophilic active ingredients. These compositions can also contain further preservatives besides the ones used according to the invention.
The proportions of the components mentioned in the previous paragraph are the ones normally used in the mentioned applications. These components have to be applied without changing the preservative system of the invention.
According to the invention the compositions can be in different cosmetic forms suitable for a topic application, such as:
The compositions previously mentioned can be used in different forms such as foam, spray, or aerosol compositions and can contain a propulsion agent under pressure.
Thus, the compositions of the invention can have the aspect of a cream, a lotion, a milk, an emulsion, a gel or an oil for the skin, a beauty mask, a salt, a gel, a foam/spray or an oil for bath and shower, or for making up and making-up cleaner for the face and eyes and any other aspect known in the art.
The compositions according to the invention have been prepared according to the techniques well known for a person skilled in the art.
The method is based on the Antimicrobial Effectiveness Testing USP 24th Edition, 1999 (pp. 1809-1811), in order to demonstrate that the antimicrobial activity of the compound aim of the patent is enough to avoid the microbial growth that could have in the storage and use of the preparation, preventing the adverse effects of the contamination (Real Farmacopea Española, 1st Edición, 1997).
This assay consists of the contamination of the protecting formulations with an inoculum mixture of 108 cfu/mL concentration, for each of the microorganisms, and the determination of the number of viable cells in the time. This inoculum mixture is composed of the following microorganisms:
Pseudomonas aeruginosa
Staphylococcus aureus
Candida albicans
Aspergillus niger
Escherichia coli
The cosmetic composition to be analysed is divided into sterile containers with 50 g of product for each flask. Each container is inoculated with 0.5 mL of inoculum (108 cfu/mL). The target concentration is 106 cfu/mL, approximately. All the containers are kept at a temperature between 20-25° C. and are protected from light.
The level of the microbial contamination is checked at 0 hours, 7 days, 14 days and 28 days. The number of colonies is evaluated by dilution in buffer peptone with the appropriate neutraliser agent of the preservative. The culture media used for counting the microorganisms are: Soya triptone (35-37° C., 48 hours) for the determination of bacteria; Sabouraud agar with chloramphenicol for fungi and yeast (25° C., 3-5 days).
According to Antimicrobial Effectiveness Testing USP 24th Edition, 1999 (pp. 1809-1811), an antimicrobial preservative is considered to be effective in topically used products made with aqueous bases or vehicles, non-sterile nasal products and emulsions, including those applied to mucous membranes, if:
Different examples of cosmetic preparations and formulations are provided where the product has been assayed. Theses examples are a part of the preparations and formulations assayed.
The composition of the cosmetic formulation in oil-in-water emulsion with non-ionic surfactant, is (in g):
This formulation is completed with 0.20 g of LAE and its capacity of preservation is evaluated against the formulation without LAE. The results are shown in the table 2.
At 28 days no increase has been detected from the 14 days' count.
The composition of an oil-in-water emulsion with an ionic emulsifier, used as cosmetic formulation, is (in g):
This formulation is completed with 0.20 g of LAE and its capacity of preservation is evaluated against the formulation without LAE. The results are shown in the table 3.
At 28 days no increase has been detected from the 14 days' count.
The general composition for a cosmetic formulation, in water in oil emulsion with non-ionic emulsifiers, is (in g)
This formulation is completed with 0.20 g of LAE and its capacity of preservation is evaluated against the formulation without LAE. The results are shown in the Table 4.
At 28 days no increase has been detected from the 14 days' count.
The composition of a formulation to obtain an aqueous solution with a surfactants' mixture, is (in g):
This formulation is applied in bath gels.
This formulation is completed with 0.20 g of LAE and its capacity of preservation is evaluated against the formulation without LAE. The results are shown in the Table 5.
At 28 days no increase has been detected from the 14 days' count.
The composition of a formulation to obtain an aqueous solution with a surfactants' mixture, is (in g):
This formulation is applied in bath gels.
This formulation is completed with 0.20 g of LAE and its capacity of preservation is evaluated against the formulation without LAE. The results are shown in the Table 6.
At 28 days no increase has been detected from the 14 days' count.
The composition of a formulation to obtain a hydroalcoholic gel, is (in g):
This formulation is applied in lotions for after-shaving skin care.
This formulation is completed with 0.20 g of LAE and its capacity of preservation is evaluated against the formulation without LAE. The results are shown in the Table 7.
At 28 days no increase has been detected from the 14 days' count.
The composition of a formulation to obtain a facial tonic, is (in g):
This formulation is completed with 0.20 g of LAE and its capacity of preservation is evaluated against the formulation without LAE. The results are shown in the Table 8.
At 28 days no increase has been detected from the 14 days' count.
The composition of a formulation to obtain a mask-up cleaner, is (in g):
This formulation is completed with 0.20 g of LAE, and the preservative capacity is evaluated and it is compared with the formulation without LAE. The results are shown in the Table 9.
At 28 days no increase has been detected from the 14 days' count.
The composition of a formulation to obtain a fluid oil-in-water emulsion with non-ionic surfactants, is (in g):
This formulation is applied in body oil.
This formulation is completed with 0.20 g of LAE, and the preservative capacity is evaluated and it is compared with the formulation without LAE. The results are shown in the Table 10.
At 28 days no increase has been detected from the 14 days' count.
The composition of a toothpaste formulation is (in g):
This formulation is completed with 0.20 g of LAE, and the preservative capacity is evaluated and it is compared with the formulation without LAE. The results are shown in the Table 11.
At 28 days no increase has been detected from the 14 days' count.
The composition of a formulation to obtain an aqueous solution with surfactants, is (in g):
This formulation is applied in shampoos cosmetic formulations.
This formulation is completed with 0.20 g of LAE, and the preservative capacity is evaluated and it is compared with the formulation without LAE. The results are shown in the Table 12.
At 28 days no increase has been detected from the 14 days' count.
The composition of a formulation to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion with non-ionic surfactants, is (in g):
This formulation is applied in a face cream for skin care.
This formulation is completed with 0.20 g of LAE and its capacity of preservation is evaluated against the formulation without LAE. The results are shown in the Table 13.
At 28 days no increase has been detected from the 14 days' count.
The composition of a formulation to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion with non-ionic surfactants, is (in g):
This formulation is applied in a sun protector cosmetic formulator.
This formulation is completed with 0.20 g of LAE and its capacity of preservation is evaluated against the formulation without LAE. The results are shown in the Table 14.
At 28 days no increase has been detected from the 14 days' count.
The composition of a formulation to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion with non-ionic surfactants is (in g):
This formulation is applied in a sun protector cosmetic product.
This formulation is completed with 0.20 g of LAE, and the preservative capacity is evaluated and it is compared with the formulation without LAE. The results are shown in the Table 15.
At 28 days no increase has been detected from the 14 days' count.
The composition of a formulation to obtain an emulsion for hands care, is (in g):
This formulation is completed with 0.20 g of LAE, and the preservative capacity is evaluated and it is compared with the formulation without LAE. The results are shown in the Table 16.
At 28 days no increase has been detected from the 14 days' count.
| Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind | 371c Date |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/EP01/09198 | 8/9/2001 | WO | 00 | 1/16/2004 |
| Publishing Document | Publishing Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| WO03/013453 | 2/20/2003 | WO | A |
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| 0 485 616 | May 1992 | EP |
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| Number | Date | Country | |
|---|---|---|---|
| 20040175350 A1 | Sep 2004 | US |