Patent Application
20170087083
The present invention generally relates to cosmetics, and more particularly relates to the cosmetic, non-therapeutic use of a cosmetic composition as a prebiotic for inhibiting the growth and/or the physiological activity of undesirable skin microbes and/or for preserving desirable skin microbes.
The invention further relates to such a prebiotically active cosmetic composition.
A multitude of different bacteria reside on the human skin surface, some of which must be considered harmful since they can cause skin diseases such as acne (known as “pathogenic bacteria”). Other skin microbes, in turn, provide a positive action (known as “saprophytic bacteria”), as growth of these is able to inhibit the reproduction of harmful bacteria, and as a result they exert a protective function on the skin. It is therefore desirable to influence the skin flora to the effect that the growth of pathogenic bacteria is reduced, and the growth of saprophytic bacteria is favored.
Cosmetic cleansing agents usually include surfactants and/or surfactant combinations, which due to the irritating effect can adversely influence the skin flora and are therefore not recommended for use on blemished skin and/or skin suffering from acne. In the case of soaps, additionally the alkaline pH value can adversely influence the skin, which may worsen the skin complexion, especially in the case of skin imperfections.
DE 102009002262 already disclosed the use of prebiotically active surfactant combinations, in particular in washing and cleaning agents for hard surfaces. For cosmetic use on particularly sensitive parts of the skin, such as the facial skin, or for cosmetic use on diseased skin, however, milder compositions are desirable, which not only promote the growth and/or the viability of saprophytic bacteria of the skin flora as compared to the growth and/or the viability of pathogenic bacteria of the skin flora selectively at the application site (of the skin), but also ensure gentle cleansing of the skin and outstanding skin care.
It is therefore desirable to find substances or substance mixtures that exhibit a prebiotic action on the skin or in the skin flora and that are suitable for use in mild, nourishing skin cleansing preparations.
Furthermore, other desirable features and characteristics of the present invention will become apparent from the subsequent detailed description of the invention and the appended claims, taken in conjunction with the accompanying drawings and this background of the invention.
A method of using a composition, including spray-dried yoghurt powder and at least one anionic surfactant and/or at least one fatty acid soap, as a prebiotic for inhibiting the growth and/or the physiological activity of undesirable skin bacteria and/or for preserving desirable skin bacteria.
A prebiotically active cosmetic composition includes at least one fatty acid soap in a weight fraction of 10 to 75 wt. %, preferably 15 to 70 wt. %, particularly preferably 20 to 65 wt. %, and in particular 25 to 60 wt. %; and spray-dried yoghurt powder in a weight fraction of 0.01 to 10 wt. %, preferably 0.02 to 7.5 wt. %, particularly preferably 0.03 to 5 wt. %, and in particular 0.05 to 3 wt. %, wherein the quantity information is based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
The present invention will hereinafter be described in conjunction with the following drawing figures.
The following detailed description of the invention is merely exemplary in nature and is not intended to limit the invention or the application and uses of the invention. Furthermore, there is no intention to be bound by any theory presented in the preceding background of the invention or the following detailed description of the invention.
One subject matter of the present invention is the cosmetic, non-therapeutic use of a cosmetic composition, comprising spray-dried yoghurt powder and at least one anionic surfactant and/or at least one fatty acid soap, as a prebiotic for inhibiting the growth and/or the physiological activity of undesirable skin microbes and/or for preserving desirable skin microbes.
Surprisingly, it was found that the combination of the spray-dried yoghurt powder and at least one anionic surfactant and/or at least one fatty acid soap forms an outstanding nourishing-cleansing complex, which can be used as a prebiotic in skin treatment agents, and in particular in skin cleansing agents.
A “prebiotic action” (or a prebiotic) according to the invention shall be understood to mean that the growth and/or the viability of the desirable, in particular friendly, skin bacteria or microflora as compared to the growth and/or the viability of the undesirable, in particular hostile, skin bacteria or microflora is promoted. This can be achieved not only in that the active ingredient and/or the active ingredient combination is conducive to the growth of the desirable skin bacteria, without directly influencing the growth of the undesirable skin bacteria, but also in that the active ingredient inhibits the growth of the undesirable skin bacteria, without directly influencing the growth of the desirable skin bacteria. In a particularly preferred and particularly surprising embodiment according to the invention, however, the active ingredient is conducive to the growth of the desirable skin bacteria, while inhibiting the growth of the undesirable skin bacteria.
According to the invention, the term “skin” shall preferably be understood to mean the skin itself, and in particular the human skin, but additionally also the mucosa and skin appendages, to the extent they comprise living cells, in particular hair follicles, hair roots, hair bulb, the ventral epithelial layer of the nail bed (lectulus), as well as sebaceous glands and sweat glands.
Inflammatory conditions of the skin are caused by harmful bacteria, such as Propionibacterium acnes, which permanently reside on the skin, but proliferate more drastically under certain conditions and cause “blemished skin” or acne, for example. These are essentially microorganisms (bacteria and fungi) that must be classified as pathogenic.
Antibacterial active ingredients, such as are used for preventing and controlling acne in commercially available cosmetics, for example, usually do not act selectively and not only kill undesirable skin bacteria, but also desirable skin bacteria and thereby disrupt the biological equilibrium, which can have a variety of undesirable consequences.
The use according to the invention does not have these disadvantages since it results in a selective elimination of undesirable skin bacteria, without adversely influencing the desirable skin bacteria. Moreover, the use according to the invention has the advantage that the skin is nourished, moisturized and soothed, which results in a general improvement of the complexion, especially in the case of blemished skin.
It was not to be expected that the active ingredient combination of spray-dried yoghurt powder and at least one fatty acid soap and/or the active ingredient combination of spray-dried yoghurt powder and at least one anionic surfactant exhibits the above-described prebiotic action in cosmetic compositions, since no prebiotic action is demonstrated for the individual components.
Particularly suited cosmetic compositions within the meaning of the present invention are preferably rinse-off products such as liquid or solid soaps, in particular syndets, shower gels, shower baths, facial toners, facial masks, facial washing gels and/or peeling products.
According to the invention, “spray-dried yoghurt powder” shall be understood to mean yoghurt powder obtainable from natural yoghurt (following complete fermentation) by way of lyophilization.
Particularly suited yoghurt powder for the use according to the invention preferably comprises the following main components:
Spray-dried yoghurt powder is preferably used in the compositions to be used according to the invention in a weight fraction of 0.01 to 10 wt. %, more preferably 0.02 to 7.5 wt. %, particularly preferably 0.03 to 5 wt. %, and in particular 0.01 to 3 wt. %, wherein the quantity information is based on the total weight of the compositions.
In particular the spray-dried yoghurt powders available commercially by the designations “Yogurtene®” from Givaudan or “Yoghurt Protein GBU®” from Lipoid Kosmetik are suitable for the use according to the invention.
“Undesirable” bacteria within the meaning of the present invention shall be understood to mean preferably bacteria hostile to the skin and/or pathogenic bacteria and/or coagulase-positive bacteria, in particular S. aureas, or bacteria selected from the group consisting of Propionibacterium acnes, Candida albicans, Malassezia furfir, Corynebacterium spp. or Peptostreptococcus spp., in particular Propionibacterium acnes.
“Desirable” bacteria within the meaning of the present invention shall be understood to mean preferably harmless and/or not pathogenic and/or skin-friendly and/or saprophytic bacteria and/or coagulase-negative staphylococci, in particular S. epidermidis, S. hominis, S warneri, S. saprophyticus, S. xylosus, S. capitis or S. simulans, in particular S. epidermidis or S. warneri.
The prebiotically active cosmetic compositions to be used according to the invention are preferably conducive to the growth of coagulase-negative staphylococci, and in particular of S. epidermidis or S. warneri, while inhibiting the growth of Propionibacterium acnes.
A first preferred embodiment of the use according to the invention is thus characterized in that the prebiotically active cosmetic compositions are conducive to the growth of coagulase-negative staphylococci, and in particular of S. epidermidis or S. warneri, while inhibiting the growth of Propionibacterium acnes.
Possible application sites are the skin of any body region, in particular the facial skin, the scalp, the skin on the neck, decollete, back, on the arms, in the axillary region and/or in the genital area. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the application site is the facial skin and/or the skin on the neck, decollete, back and/or on the arms.
The use according to the invention of cosmetic compositions comprising spray-dried yoghurt powder and at least one fatty acid soap can be preferred according to the invention since it was found that the use of such a composition significantly promotes the growth of desirable skin bacteria (S. epidermis).
A second preferred embodiment of the use according to the invention is thus characterized in that the cosmetic compositions comprise spray-dried yoghurt powder and at least one fatty acid soap in a weight fraction of 10 to 75 wt. %, based on the total weight of the compositions.
“Fatty acid soaps” usually refer to the sodium, potassium or ammonium salts of fatty acids. “Fatty acids” shall be understood to mean linear and/or branched, saturated and/or unsaturated carboxylic acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid and behenic acid, erucic acid, isostearic acid, isotridecanoic acid, but also elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, eleostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid. It is preferred to use technical mixtures, such as those obtainable from vegetable and animal fats and oils, for example from tallow fatty acids, coconut fatty acids, olive oil fatty acids, palm oil fatty acids, lard fatty acids and/or palm kernel oil fatty acids.
The sodium salts of the following fatty acids are particularly preferred for the use according to the invention: of tallow fatty acid (INCI name: Sodium Tallowate), of coconut fatty acid (INCI name: Sodium Cocoate), of olive oil fatty acid (INCI name: Sodium Olivate), of palm oil fatty acids (INCI name: Sodium Palmate), of lard fatty acids (INCI names: Sodium Lardate) and/or of palm kernel oil fatty acids (INCI name: Sodium Palm Kernelate).
The total amount of fatty acid soaps in the cosmetic compositions of the second preferred embodiment is preferably 10 to 75 wt. %, more preferably 15 to 70 wt. %, particularly preferably 20 to 65 wt. %, and in particular preferably 25 to 60%, wherein the quantity information is based on the total weight of the cosmetic compositions.
Within the second preferred embodiment, it is particularly preferred for the cosmetic composition to be present in the form of a solid, pasty or liquid soap or as a combar (mixture of syndet and soap).
Within this embodiment, the cosmetic composition preferably has a water content of
The use according to the invention of cosmetic compositions comprising spray-dried yoghurt powder and at least one anionic surfactant may likewise be preferred. It was found that using such a composition significantly inhibits the growth of undesirable skin bacteria (Propionbacterium acnes), while promoting the growth of desirable skin bacteria (S. epidermis).
The prebiotic efficacy and the mildness of the compositions were moreover enhanced with careful selection of the nature and amount of the at least one anionic surfactant.
The combination of at least one anionic surfactant with at least one amphoteric surfactant and/or zwitterionic surfactant has proven to be particularly advantageous.
The combination of at least one anionic surfactant with at least one cationic polymer has also proven to be particularly advantageous.
A third preferred embodiment of the use according to the invention is thus characterized in that the cosmetic compositions, in addition to spray-dried yoghurt powder, comprise
Within this embodiment, it is particularly advantageous if the cosmetic compositions comprise at least one anionic surfactant a) and at least one amphoteric surfactant b) in a weight ratio a):b) of 10:1 to 1:3, more preferably of 7:1 to 1:2, and in particular of 5:1 to 1:1.
A fourth preferred embodiment of the use according to the invention is thus characterized in that the cosmetic compositions, in addition to spray-dried yoghurt powder, comprise
a) at least one anionic surfactant in a weight fraction of 3 to 8 wt. %,
b) spray-dried yoghurt powder in a weight fraction of 0.01 to 10 wt. %, and
c) at least one cationic polymer in a weight fraction of 0.01 to 5 wt. %,
wherein the quantity information is based on the total weight of the compositions.
Within the third and fourth preferred embodiments, it is furthermore particularly preferred for the cosmetic composition to be present in liquid form, and in particular in the form of a liquid soap, shower gel, shower bath, bubble bath, facial washing gel, peeling or facial toner.
Within the third and fourth preferred embodiments, the cosmetic composition preferably has a water content of at least 60 wt. %, more preferably of at least 70 wt. %, particularly preferably of at least 80 wt. %, and in particular of at least 85 wt. %, wherein the quantity information is based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
Preferably, the following surface-active substances are suitable anionic surfactants for the use according to the invention:
Preferred are mild anionic surfactants comprising polyglycol ether chains. To the extent that the mild anionic surfactants comprise polyglycol ether chains, it is especially particularly preferred for these to exhibit a restricted distribution of homologs. Furthermore, it is preferred in the case of mild anionic surfactants comprising polyglycol ether units for the number of the glycol ether groups to be 1 to 20, preferably 2 to 15, and particularly preferably 2 to 12. Particularly mild anionic surfactants comprising polyglycol ether groups exhibiting no restricted distribution of homologs can also be obtained, for example, when the number of the polyglycol ether groups is 4 to 12, and Zn or Mg ions are selected as the counterion. One example of this is the commercial product Texapon®.
Particularly preferred are:
Especially particularly preferred are alkyl sulfates and alkylpolyglycol ether sulfates of formula R—O(CH2—CH2O)x—SO3H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x=0 or 1 to 12, and acyl glumates of formula XOOC—CH2CH2CH(C(NH)OR)—COOX, in which RCO denotes a linear or branched acyl group having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, and 0 and/or 1, 2 or 3 double bonds, and X denotes hydrogen, an alkali metal and/or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkyl ammonium, alkanol ammonium or glucammonium; and the mixtures thereof.
Most preferred are alkyl sulfates and alkylpolyglycol ether sulfates of formula R—O(CH2—CH2O)x—SO3H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, particularly preferably having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and in particular having 10 to 18 carbon atoms, and x denotes 0 or 1 to 12, preferably 1 to 6, and in particular 2 to 4, and the mixtures thereof.
The total amount of anionic surfactants in the cosmetic compositions of the third and fourth preferred embodiments is preferably 3 to 8 wt. %, more preferably 4 to 8 wt. %, particularly preferably 5 to 8 wt. %, and in particular 5.5 to 8%, wherein the quantity information is based on the total weight of the cosmetic compositions.
Particularly suited zwitterionic surfactants for the use according to the invention are those known as betaines, such as N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example coconut alkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example, coconut acylaminopropyl dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl imidazolines, each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and coconut acylamino ethylhydroxyethyl carboxymethyl glycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine, and Coco Betaine.
Ampholytic surfactants shall be understood to mean those surface-active compounds capable of forming inner salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkyl glycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutytic acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropyl glycines, N-alkyl taurines, N-alkyl sarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids, and alkylaminoacetic acids, each having approximately 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkyl betaines, alkyl amido betaines, aminopropionates, amino glycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines.
Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethyl aminopropionate, the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine, and C12 to C18 acyl sarcosine.
The total amount of amphoteric and/or zwitterionic surfactants in the cosmetic compositions of the third and fourth preferred embodiments is preferably 1 to 6 wt. %, more preferably 1.2 to 5 wt. %, particularly preferably 1.4 to 4.5 wt. %, and in particular 1.5 to 4%, wherein the quantity information is based on the total weight of the cosmetic compositions.
Suitable cationic polymers are, for example:
Preferred cationic polymers are quaternized cellulose polymers, cationic guar derivatives and/or cationic polymers based on acrylic acid (derivatives), which particularly preferably are selected from the polymers known by the INCI names Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Polyquatemium-6, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-37 and/or Polyquaternium-67. The cationic polymers known by the INCI name Polyquaternium-7 are in particular preferred for use in the cosmetic compositions to be used according to the invention.
The cationic polymer or polymers can preferably be used in the cosmetic compositions to be used according to the invention in a weight fraction (based on the total weight of the cosmetic compositions) of 0.01 to 5 wt. %, more preferably of 0.02 to 4 wt. %, particularly preferably of 0.05 to 3 wt. %, and in particular of 0.1 to 2 wt. %.
A second subject matter of the present invention relates to a prebiotically active cosmetic composition comprising
What was said with respect to the use according to the invention applies, mutatis mutandis, with respect to preferred embodiments of the composition according to the invention.
In a first preferred embodiment of the second subject matter of the invention, the prebiotically active cosmetic compositions are present in a solid consistency. In this embodiment, these preferably comprise water in a weight fraction of 0.1 to 20 wt. %, more preferably of 5 to 18 wt. %, and particularly preferably of 7.5 to 17.5 wt. %, wherein the quantity information is based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
In a second preferred embodiment, the prebiotically active cosmetic compositions have an alkaline pH value, which is preferably in the range of 8 to 12, more preferably of 9 to 12, particularly preferably of 9.5 to 11.5, and in particular of 10 to 11.
In a third preferred embodiment of the second subject matter of the invention, the prebiotically active cosmetic compositions comprise the sodium salt(s) of tallow fatty acid (INCI name: Sodium Tallowate), of coconut fatty acid (INCI name: Sodium Cocoate), of olive oil fatty acid (INCI name: Sodium Olivate), of palm oil fatty acids (INCI name: Sodium Palmate), of lard fatty acids (INCI names: Sodium Lardate) and/or of palm kernel oil fatty acids (INCI name: Sodium Palm Kernelate) as particularly preferred fatty acid soap(s).
It may be in particular of advantage if the cosmetic compositions within this embodiment comprise mixtures of the above-mentioned fatty acid soaps.
In a further preferred embodiment, the spray-dried yoghurt powder in the prebiotically active cosmetic composition of the second subject matter of the invention comprises proteins.
It is particularly preferred for the spray-dried yoghurt powder to comprise proteins in a weight fraction of 20 to 30%, more preferably 22 to 28%, particularly preferably 24 to 26%, and in particular of approximately 25%, wherein the quantity information is based on the total weight of the spray-dried yoghurt powder.
From an application point of view, it has proven advantageous for the prebiotically active cosmetic compositions of the second subject matter of the invention to have a certain content of free, unsaponified fatty acids in addition to the fatty acid soap(s). The content of free fatty acids allowed in particular the foaming and foam properties to be improved. In particular, a creamy foam having fine bubbles was obtained, which leaves behind a pleasant sensation on the skin.
In a fourth preferred embodiment, the prebiotically active cosmetic compositions of the second subject matter of the invention thus furthermore comprise free fatty acids, wherein the weight fraction of the free fatty acids in the total weight of the cosmetic compositions is preferably 0.01 to 10 wt. %, more preferably 0.1 to 8 wt. %, particularly preferably 0.25 to 6 wt. %, and in particular 0.5 to 5 wt. %.
One particularly preferred active ingredient, which may furthermore be present in the prebiotically active cosmetic compositions of the second subject matter of the invention, is talc. It was found that talc, in combination with spray-dried yoghurt powder and at least one fatty acid soap, improves the suppleness of the skin and skin moisture.
Talc within the meaning of the invention shall be understood to mean a hydrated magnesium silicate of the theoretical composition 3MgO.4SiO2.H2O or Mg3(Si4O10).(OH)2, which, however, may comprise fractions of hydrated magnesium aluminum silicate of up to 12 wt. % Al2O3, based on the total product.
The particle diameter (equivalent spherical diameter) of the talc should preferably range between 0.5 and 50 μm. In general, talc qualities comprising no more than 5 wt. % of particles below 1 μm and no more than 5 wt. % of particles above 50 μm in size have proven useful. The fraction of particles that, on average, are greater than 40 μm (sieve retention) is preferably no more than 2 wt. %. The average particle diameter (D 50) is preferably 5 to 15 μm.
The content of by-products should preferably not account for more than 1.6 wt. % Fe2O3, 1 wt. % CaO and 1 wt. % unbound water (loss in drying at 105° C.). The content of hydrated magnesium aluminum silicate can be as much as 60 wt. %, calculated as Al2O3, to 12 wt. %.
In a fifth preferred embodiment, the prebiotically active compositions of the second subject matter of the invention furthermore comprise talc, wherein the weight fraction of the talc in the total weight of the cosmetic compositions is preferably 1 to 40 wt. %, more preferably 2 to 30 wt. %, particularly preferably 3 to 25 wt. %, and in particular 5 to 20 wt. %.
In addition to the above-mentioned active ingredients, the prebiotically active cosmetic compositions of the second subject matter of the invention can comprise further active ingredients, which impart advantageous properties to these, such as improved mildness and improved nourishing properties.
The preferred further active ingredients that may be used in the prebiotically active cosmetic compositions of the second subject matter of the invention include, for example:
Suitable non-ionic surfactants/emulsifiers include, for example,
Particularly suitable non-ionic surfactants/emulsifiers are alkyl oligoglucosides, and in particular alkyl oligoglucosides based on hydrogenated C12/14 coconut alcohol having a DP of 1 to 3, as they are commercially available by the INCI name “Coco-Glucoside,” for example.
Further preferred non-ionic surfactants/emulsifiers are addition products of 5 to 60 moles ethylene oxide to castor oil and/or hydrogenated castor oil, such as the emulsifiers known by the INCI names PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil and/or PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil.
Suitable active ingredients that positively influence skin moisture shall preferably be understood to mean at least one active ingredient that is selected from the following group:
i. glycerol,
ii. vitamins,
iii. cationic polymers and/or
iv. plant extracts, milks and/or juices.
Glycerol can preferably be used in the prebiotically active cosmetic compositions of the second subject matter of the invention in a weight fraction of 0.1 to 10 wt. %, more preferably 0.2 to 8 wt. %, particularly preferably 0.5 to 6, and in particular 1 to 5 wt. %, wherein the quantity information is based on the total weight of the cosmetic compositions.
Suitable vitamins shall preferably be understood to mean the following vitamins, provitamins, and vitamin precursors, and the derivatives thereof:
Vitamin A: The group of substances referred to as vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A1) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A2). β-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. Possible vitamin A components are, for example, vitamin A acid and the esters thereof, vitamin A aldehyde, and vitamin A alcohol and the esters thereof, such as palmitate and acetate.
Vitamin B: The vitamin B group or vitamin B complex includes, among other things,
The prebiotically active cosmetic compositions of the second subject matter of the invention can preferably comprise vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from the groups A, B, E and H. Vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from group B are particularly preferred; in particular, nicotinic acid amide and/or panthenol are preferred.
Vitamins, vitamin derivatives and/or vitamin precursors may preferably be used in the agents according to the invention of the second subject matter of the invention (based on the total weight of the agents) in an amount of 0.001 to 2 wt. %, particularly preferably of 0.005 to 1 wt. %, and in particular of 0.01 to 0.5 wt. %. Suitable cationic polymers and the amounts thereof used were disclosed earlier in the description.
Suitable plant extracts, milks and/or juices that may be present in the cosmetic cleansing agents according to the invention can preferably be selected from green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, pine needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, lady's smock, creeping thyme, yarrow, thyme, balm, restharrow, coltsfoot, vanilla, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng, and ginger root.
Extracts of green tea, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, vanilla, kiwi and melon are particularly preferred, and in particular the extracts of aloe vera, coconut, vanilla and melon are preferred.
The extracts are usually produced by way of extraction of the entire plant. However, in isolated cases, it may also be preferred to produce the extracts exclusively from flowers and/or leaves of the plant.
Extracting agents for producing the described plant extracts that may be used are water, alcohols and the mixtures thereof. Among the alcohols, lower alcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol, in particular, however, polyhydric alcohols, such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as the sole extracting agent and also in a mixture with water, are preferred. Plant extracts based on water/propylene glycol at a ratio of 1:10 to 10:1 have proven to be particularly suitable.
The plant extracts can be used either in pure form or in dilute form. If they are used in dilute form, they usually contain approximately about 2 to 80 wt. % active substance and, as solvent, the extracting agent or extracting agent mixture used during extraction thereof.
Aloe milk, aloe vera leaf juice and coconut milk may preferably be used as the plant milk or juice. The plant milks/juices can preferably be used in the cosmetic compositions of the second subject matter of the invention in a weight fraction of 0.01 to 5 wt. %, preferably 0.02 to 4 wt. %, and in particular 0.05 to 3 wt. %, based on the total weight of the agent.
In a sixth preferred embodiment, the prebiotically active cosmetic compositions of the second subject matter of the invention furthermore comprise at least one active ingredient c) positively influencing skin moisture in a weight fraction of 0.01 to 10 wt. %, preferably 0.05 to 7.5 wt. %, more preferably 0.1 to 5 wt. %, and in particular 0.2 to 4 wt. %, wherein the quantity information is based on the total weight of the compositions, and wherein the active ingredient is selected from
i. glycerol,
ii. vitamins,
iii. cationic polymers and/or
iv. plant extracts, milks and/or juices.
Within this embodiment, it is particularly preferred for the active ingredient c) to be selected from glycerol, panthenol, niacinamide, a cationic polymer known by the INCI name Polyquaternium-10, a cationic polymer known by the INCI name Polyquaternium-7 and/or extracts, milks and/or juices of aloe vera (Aloe barbadensis) and/or of coconut. In particular, niacinamide, Polyquaternium-7, aloe milk and/or coconut milk are preferred.
Further active ingredients, auxiliary substances and additives are, for example:
The production of the prebiotically active cosmetic compositions in a solid consistency can take place in a manner customary for such products, wherein in particular the active ingredient combination according to the invention creates an easily moldable mass that when exposed to heat is sufficiently plastic, but not rubber-elastic, and that is solid after cooling, and wherein the shaped products have a smooth surface. Conventional methods for mixing or homogenizing, kneading, optionally refining, extrusion molding, optionally pelletizing, extruding, cutting and bar pressing are known to a person skilled in the art and may be used to produce the bar soaps according to the invention. Production is preferably carried out in a temperature range of 40 to 90° C., wherein the meltable charged substances are introduced into a heatable kneader or mixer, and the non-melting components are stirred in. The mixture may subsequently be passed through a sieve for homogenization before it is then molded. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the components are used in anhydrous, granular form, as they are obtained after drying in what is known as a flash dryer. Reference shall be made in this regard to the teaching of German patent specification DE 19534371 C1.
Shaped soap products, however, may also be present in the form of noodles, needles, granules, extrudates, flakes and in any other form common for soap products.
Furthermore, the bars of soap may be imparted a marbled appearance, for example by injecting dye solutions during the extrusion process.
Likewise, the bars of soap can be processed as multi-phase soaps, in particular also as bars of soap provided with a nourishing phase.
Finally, the bars of soap may even exhibit a certain transparency. For this purpose, the inorganic components are selected to be especially fine. It is then possible to obtain at least semi-transparent soaps.
a) spray-dried yoghurt powder and anionic surfactant(s) and fatty acid soap(s)
b) spray-dried yoghurt powder and fatty acid soap(s)
The test was carried out to demonstrate the prebiotic action in cosmetic compositions comprising the above-mentioned active ingredient combinations. The “prebiotic effect” shall be understood to mean the difference between the quantitative number of desirable bacteria (S. epidermis) and the number of undesirable bacteria (Propionibacterium acnes) at two different points in time. For a prebiotic effect to be present, a difference in favor of the desirable bacteria must be shown.
The following compositions were analyzed (the quantity information is based on [% by weight]):
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice
The growth of S. epidermis (DSMZ 20042) and Propionibacterium acnes (DSMZ 1897) on 3 membranes (0.8 to 3.1×106 cfu) was analyzed. After the bacteria was left on the surfaces of the 3 membranes for 3 hours under aerobic conditions (37° C.), each membrane was applied to the respective test product (200 μL; heated to 37° C.). Contact was established for 2 minutes between the respective product and the particular membrane, and thereafter the membranes were each washed twice with 2 mL water each. Thereafter, the number of bacteria remaining on the three membranes was directly determined. After having then incubated membranes for 24 hours at 37° C., the above-described method was repeated twice more.
The results are shown in the diagrams in
The following soaps were produced (unless indicated otherwise, the quantity information is based on % by weight):
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice
While at least one exemplary embodiment has been presented in the foregoing detailed description of the invention, it should be appreciated that a vast number of variations exist. It should also be appreciated that the exemplary embodiment or exemplary embodiments are only examples, and are not intended to limit the scope, applicability, or configuration of the invention in any way. Rather, the foregoing detailed description will provide those skilled in the art with a convenient road map for implementing an exemplary embodiment of the invention, it being understood that various changes may be made in the function and arrangement of elements described in an exemplary embodiment without departing from the scope of the invention as set forth in the appended claims and their legal equivalents.
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| 10 2014 211 204.4 | Jun 2014 | DE | national |
| Number | Date | Country | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Parent | PCT/EP2015/061957 | May 2015 | US |
| Child | 15376204 | US |
