The invention relates to the use of N-methyl-N-acylglucamines as solubilizers in cosmetics preparations and also cosmetics preparations containing them, in particular lotions for producing wet wipes.
In the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations, the problem frequently occurs that certain ingredients do not have sufficient water solubility and the preparations, in particular in the presence of salts, become hazy or form several phases. In order to avoid this, generally solubilizers or hydrotropes are added to the preparations.
WO 96/14374 describes the use of carboxylic acid N-alkyl-N-polyhydroxy-alkylamides of the formula R2CO—NR3—[Z], in which R2CO is an aliphatic acyl radical having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, R3 is hydrogen, an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having 1 to 8 carbon atoms and [Z] is a polyhydroxyalkyl radical having 3 to 12 carbon atoms and 3 to 10 OH groups, as solubilizers for laundry detergents, dishwashing agents and cleaning agents, and also for cosmetics and/or pharmaceutical preparations. Those which may be mentioned as preferred are the carboxylic acid N-alkylglucamides, wherein R3 is hydrogen, a methyl or octyl group, and R2CO is derived from formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid or caproic acid, with the proviso that the sum of the carbon atoms in the acyl and alkyl radicals is preferably 6 to 10. Those which are cited explicitly are acetic acid N-octylglucamine, butyric acid N-octylglucamine and also caproic acid N-methylglucamine.
WO 95/16824 relates to lotions for producing wet wipes, such as wet toilet paper, containing a softening substance, an immobilizer, and also optionally a hydrophilic surfactant. As softening substance, mention may be made of fatty acid esters of C12-C28 fatty acids and C1-C8 monohydric alcohols, for example methyl palmitate, methyl stearate, isopropyl laurate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate and ethylhexyl palmitate, and also esters of long-chain fatty alcohols with short-chain fatty acids, for example lauryl lactate or cetyl lactate. The immobilizer is intended to prevent the migration of the softening substance into the paper web and to fix it to the surface of the paper cloth. Suitable immobilizers which may be mentioned are polyhydroxy fatty acid esters and polyhydroxy fatty acid amides. Particularly preferred polyhydroxy fatty acid amides which may be mentioned are N-methyl- or N-methoxypropyl-N-acylglucamines having a straight-chain C12-C18 acyl group, for example N-lauryl-N-methylglucamide, N-lauryl-N-methoxypropylglucamide, N-cocoyl-N-methylglucamide, N-cocoyl-N-methoxypropylglucamide, N-palmityl-N-methoxypropylglucamide, N-talloyl-N-methylglucamide and N-talloyl-N-methoxypropylglucamide. Optional hydrophilic surfactants which may be mentioned are alkylglycosides, alkylglycoside ethers, alkylpolyethoxylated esters and also ethoxylated sorbitan mono-, di- and/or triesters of C12-C18 fatty acids.
It is the object of the invention to provide solubilizers having an improved solubilization capacity for producing cosmetics preparations.
The object is achieved by the use of N-methyl-N—C8-C14-acylglucamines as solubilizers in cosmetics preparations.
It has been found that N-methyl-N-acylglucamines having a high fraction of C3-C14 acyl exhibit a particularly high solubilization capacity. N-Methyl-N-acylglucamines of these chain lengths are outstandingly suitable for producing clear solutions of water-insoluble and only partially water-soluble substances, and therefore for producing stable wet-wipe lotions.
N-Methyl-N-acylglucamines have the formula (I),
where R is an alkyl radical or a monounsaturated or polyunsaturated alkenyl radical, and in the case of C8-C14 acylglucamines, therefore, a C7-C13 alkyl or a monounsaturated or polyunsaturated alkenyl radical.
Generally, N-methyl-N-acylglucamines used according to the invention contain at least 80% by weight of N-methyl-N-acylglucamines which contain a C8-C14 acyl group. Particularly preferably, the fraction of N-methyl-N-acylglucamines which contain a C8-C14 acyl group is at least 90% by weight. In addition, the N-methyl-N-acylglucamines used according to the invention as solubilizers contain small fractions of N-methyl-N-acylglucamines derived from short-chain and/or long-chain fatty acids, in particular those which contain C1-C4 acyl, C6 acyl, C18 acyl and/or C20 acyl.
In one embodiment of the invention, N-methyl-N-acylglucamines are used, wherein at least 80% by weight of the N-methyl-N-acylglucamines contain a C8 acyl, or a C10 acyl group.
In a further embodiment of the invention, N-methyl-N-acylglucamines are used, wherein at least 80% by weight of the N-methyl-N-acylglucamines contain a C12 acyl or a C14 acyl group.
In a further embodiment of the invention, N-methyl-N-acylglucamines are used which consist exclusively of N-methyl-N-acylglucamines which contain a C8 acyl, C10 acyl, C12 acyl, or a C14 acyl group or mixtures thereof.
The N-methyl-N-acylglucamines can, as described in EP 0 550 637 B1, be prepared by reacting the corresponding fatty acid esters or fatty acid ester mixtures with N-methylglucamine in the presence of a solvent having hydroxyl groups or alkoxy groups. Suitable solvents are, for example, C1-C4 monohydric alcohols, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol, and also alkoxylated alcohols. Preference is given to 1,2-propylene glycol. N-methylglucamine can, as likewise described in EP 0 550 637 A1, be obtained by reductive amination of glucose with methylamine.
Suitable fatty acid esters which are reacted with the N-methylglucamines to form N-methyl-N-acylglucamines are generally the methyl esters which are obtained by transesterification from natural fats and oils, for example the triglycerides.
Suitable raw materials for the preparation of the fatty acid methyl esters are, for example, coconut oil or palm oil. The N-methyl-N-acylglucamines used according to the invention are suitable as solubilizers for producing skin and hair treatment compositions. Examples are body washes, shower creams, skincare compositions, day creams, night creams, care creams, nutrient creams, body lotions and ointments. The N-methyl-N-acylglucamines used according to the invention are suitable as solubilizers for producing oil-in-water emulsions, preferably for the treatment or care of the skin.
Skin-care compositions such as creams and lotions generally, in addition to the said oils, have surfactants, emulsifiers, fats, waxes, stabilizers, refitting agents, thickeners, biogenic active ingredients, film-forming agents, preservatives, colorants and fragrances.
In a particularly preferred embodiment, the N-methyl-N-acylglucamines are used as solubilizers in lotions for producing wet wipes.
Such lotions, in addition to the N-methyl-N-acylglucamines, contain at least one or more water-insoluble or only partially water-soluble antimicrobial active ingredients b), optionally oils c), water d), optionally surfactants e), and also optionally further customary auxiliaries and additives f) and preferably exhibit a clear appearance. It is understood here that the composition is optically transparent at a layer thickness of 5 cm and does not appear opaque and emulsion-like. In addition, the compositions do not exhibit separation into a plurality of phases and are therefore homogeneous.
Water-insoluble or only partially water-soluble antimicrobial active ingredients b) are preferably phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, phenethyl alcohol, 1,2-octanediol, ethylhexyl glycerol, sorbitan caprylate, glyceryl caprylate, parabens, or contain mixtures of two or more thereof. Particular preference is given to benzyl alcohol and phenoxyethanol.
The oil content of the lotions is generally up to 5% by weight, preferably up to 2% by weight, based on all components of the lotion.
The oils c) are preferably selected from the group of natural and synthetic fats, such as the triglycerides, preferably of esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low carbon number such as isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or of esters of long-chain fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids of low carbon number or alkyl benzoates, and also natural or synthetic hydrocarbon oils.
Triglycerides of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated, C8-C30 fatty acids come into consideration, in particular vegetable oils, such as sunflower, maize, soy, rice, jojoba, babusscu, pumpkin, grapeseed, sesame, walnut, apricot, orange, wheatgerm, peach kernel, macadamia, avocado, sweet almond, lady's smock, castor oil, olive oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil and coconut oil, and also synthetic triglyceride oils, e.g. the commercial product Myritol® 318. Hardened triglycerides are also preferred according to the invention. Oils of animal origin, for example beef tallow, perhydrosqualene and lanolin can also be used.
A further class of preferred oils are the benzoic acid esters of linear or branched C8-22 alkanols, e.g. the commercial products Finsolv® SB (isostearyl benzoate), Finsolv® TN (C12-C15 alkyl benzoate) and FinsoIv® EB (ethylhexyl benzoate).
A further class of preferred oils are the dialkyl ethers having in total 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular having 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as, e.g., di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol® OE), di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, isopentyl n-octyl ether and 2-methylpentyl n-octyl ether, and also di-tert-butyl ether and diisopentyl ether.
Branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 6-30 carbon atoms also come into consideration, e.g. isostearyl alcohol, and also Guerbet alcohols.
A further class of preferred oils are hydroxycarboxylic acid alkyl esters. Preferred hydroxycarboxylic acid alkyl esters are full esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid. Further esters suitable in principle of hydroxycarboxylic acids are esters of R-hydroxypropionic acid, of tartronic acid, of D-gluconic acid, saccharic acid, mucic acid or glucuronic acid. As alcohol component of these esters, primary, linear or branched aliphatic alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms are suitable. In this case, the esters of C12-C15 fatty alcohols are particularly preferred.
Esters of this type are commercially available, e.g. under the trade name Cosmacol® from EniChem, Augusta Industriale.
A further class of preferred oils are dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched C2-C10 alkanols, such as di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol® B), di-(2-ethylhexyl) adipate and di-(2-ethylhexyl) succinate and also diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di-(2-ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol dipelargonate, butanediol diisostearate and neopentyl glycol dicaprylate and also diisotridecyl azelate.
Oils which are equally preferred are symmetrical, unsymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol® CC).
A further class of preferred oils are the esters of dimeric unsaturated C12-C22 fatty acids (dimer fatty acids) with monohydric linear, branched or cyclic C2-C18 alkanols, or with polyhydric linear or branched C2-C6 alkanols.
A further class of preferred oils is hydrocarbon oils, for example those having linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C40 carbon chains, for example Vaseline, dodecane, isododecane, cholesterol, lanolin, synthetic hydrocarbons such as polyolefins, in particular polyisobutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polydecane, also hexadecane, isohexa-decane, paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils, e.g. the commercial products of the Permethyl® series, squalene, squalene, and alicyclic hydrocarbons, e.g. the commercial product 1,3-di-(2-ethylhexyl)cyclohexane (Cetiol® S).
Preferred oils are triglycerides, in particular triglycerides of caprylic acid and/or capric acid, termed dialkyl ethers, in particular dicapryl ether, and also dicapryl carbonate.
The invention also relates to lotions for producing wet wipes containing
Generally, the lotions according to the invention contain
The invention also relates to the wet wipes themselves impregnated with the lotion according to the invention.
The optional surfactants e) can be nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants and amphoteric surfactants.
Anionic surfactants which come into consideration are (C10-C22) alkyl and alkylene carboxylates, alkyl ether carboxylates, fatty alcohol sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, alkylamide sulfates and alkylamide sulfonates, fatty acid alkyl amide polyglycol ether sulfates, alkanesulfonates and hydroxy-alkane sulfonates, olefin sulfonates, acyl esters of isethionates, α-sulfo fatty acid esters, alkylbenzene sulfonates, alkylphenol glycol ether sulfonates, sulfosuccinates, sulfosuccinic acid semiesters and diesters, fatty alcohol phosphates, fatty alcohol ether phosphates, protein-fatty acid condensation products, alkyl monoglyceride sulfates and alkyl monoglyceride sulfonates, alkylglyceride ether sulfonates, fatty acid methyl-taurides, fatty acid sarcosinates, sulfosuccinates, sulforicinoleates, acyl glutamates and acyl glycinates. These compounds and mixtures thereof are used in the form of their water-soluble or water-dispersible salts, for example the sodium, potassium, magnesium, ammonium, mono-, di- and triethanolammonium, and also analogous alkylammonium salts.
Suitable cationic surfactants are substituted or unsubstituted straight-chain or branched quaternary ammonium salts of the R1N(CH3)3X, R1R2N(CH3)2X, R1R2R3N(CH3)X or R1R2R3R4NX type. The radicals R1, R2, R3 and R4 can preferably be independently of one another unsubstituted alkyl having a chain length of between 8 and 24 carbon atoms, in particular between 10 and 18 carbon atoms, hydroxyalkyl having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, phenyl, C2 to C18 alkenyl, C7 to C24 aralkyl, (C2H4O)xH, wherein x is from 1 to 3, alkyl radicals containing one or more ester groups, or cyclic quaternary ammonium salts. X is a suitable anion. Preference is given to (C8-C22) alkyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, particularly preferably cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, di-(C8-C22) alkyldimethylammonium chloride or bromide, (C8-C22) alkyldimethyl-dibenzylammonium chloride or bromide, (C8-C22) alkyldimethylhydroxy-ethylammonium chloride, phosphate, sulfate, lactate, particularly preferably distearyldimethylammonium chloride, di(C8-C22) alkylaminopropyltri-methylammonium chloride and methosulfate.
Nonionic surfactants which come into consideration, for example, are the following compounds:
Further suitable nonionic surfactants are alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides and also fatty acid polyglycol esters or fatty amine polyglycol esters each having 8 to 20, preferably 12 to 18, carbon atoms in the fatty alkyl radical, alkyl oligoglycosides, alkenyl oligoglycosides and fatty acid N-alkylglucamides.
In addition, the compositions according to the invention can contain amphoteric surfactants. These can be described as derivatives of long-chain secondary or tertiary amines which have an alkyl group having 8 to 18 carbon atoms and in which a further group is substituted with an anionic group which imparts the water solubility, for instance, e.g., with a carboxyl, sulfate or sulfonate group. Preferred amphoteric surfactants are N—(C12-C18)-alkyl-β-aminopropionates and N—(C12-C18)-alkyl-β-imino-dipropionates as alkali metal salts and mono-, di- and trialkylammonium salts. Suitable further surfactants are also amine oxides. These are oxides of tertiary amines with a long-chain group of 8 to 18 carbon atoms and two usually short-chain alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms. Preference here is given, for example, to the C10 to C18 alkyldimethylamine oxides, fatty acid amido alkyldimethylamine oxide.
Auxiliaries and additives f) are, for example, emulsifiers, preservatives and fragrances.
As emulsifiers, the following preferably come into consideration: addition products of 0 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide and/or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and to sorbitan or sorbitol esters; (C12-C18) fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 0 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide to glycerol; glycerol monoesters and diesters and sorbitan mono- and diesters of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and optionally the ethylene oxide addition products thereof; addition products of 15 to 60 mol of ethylene oxide to castor oil and/or hardened castor oil;
polyol esters, and in particular polyglycerol esters, such as, e.g., polyglycerol polyricinoleate and polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate.
Equally preferably suitable are ethoxylated fatty amines, fatty acid amides, fatty acid alkanolamides and mixtures of compounds from a plurality of these classes of substance.
As preservatives, the preservatives that are listed in the relevant annex of the European cosmetics legislation are suitable. Examples are benzoic acid and sorbic acid, and particularly highly suitable is, for example, 1,3-bis-(hydroxymethyl)-5,5-dimethylimidazolidine-2,4-dione (Nipaguard®DMDMH).
As fragrances, individual odorant compounds, e.g. the synthetic products of the type of esters, ethers, aldehydes, ketones, alcohols and hydrocarbons can be used. Odorant compounds of the ester type are, e.g., benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, ethylmethylphenyl glycinate, allylcyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, and the aldehydes include, e.g., the linear alkanols having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, the ketones include, e.g., the ionones, alpha-isomethylionone and methyl cedryl ketone, the alcohols include anethole, citronellol, eugenol, geranion, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, and the hydrocarbons include principally the terpenes and balsams. Preferably, mixtures of various odorants are used which together generate an appropriate fragrance.
As fragrances, natural odorant mixtures can also be comprised, as are accessible from plant or animal sources, e.g. pine oil, citrus oil, jasmine oil, lily oil, rose oil, or ylang-ylang oil. Essential oils of low volatility which are usually used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, e.g. sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, lime blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, frankincense oil, galbanum oil and ladanum oil.
The invention will be explained in more detail by the examples hereinafter.
The N-acyl-N-methylglucamines described hereinafter were prepared according to EP 0 550 637 from the corresponding fatty acid methyl esters and N-methylglucamine in the presence of 1,2-propylene glycol as solvent and obtained as solid comprising active substance and 1,2-propylene glycol (all figures in % by weight). Mixtures of N-acyl-N-methylglucamines with acyl radicals of the stated carbon numbers were obtained (C8/C10 and/or C12/C14).
The viscosities were measured using a Brookfield viscometer model DV II, with the spindles from spindle set RV at 20 revolutions/minute and at 20° C. Spindles 1 to 7 from the spindle set RV were used. Under these measurement conditions, spindle 1 was selected for viscosities of a maximum of 500 mPa·s, spindle 2 for viscosities of a maximum of 1000 mPa·s, spindle 3 for viscosities of a maximum of 5000 mPa·s, spindle 4 for viscosities of a maximum of 10000 mPa·s, spindle 5 for viscosities of a maximum of 20000 mPa·s, spindle 6 for viscosities of a maximum of 50000 mPa·s and spindle 7 for viscosities of a maximum of 200000 mPa·s.
Solubilizer tests were carried out. As test oil phase 1, a mixture of phenoxyethanol/benzyl alcohol/sorbitanic caprylate (Velsan® SC) in the ratio 1:1:1 was used. The usage rate was 1.5% by weight.
The test oil phase and increasing amounts of solubilizer (0.5/1/1.5/2/2.5% of active substance) were mixed and made up to 100% with water at 20 to 25° C. with stirring. The turbidity of the solution was assessed after 30 min. Turbid formulations were further heated to approximately 60° C. after evaluation, and after cooling they were evaluated again. The lowest concentration at which the solution became clear was noted (all figures in % by weight).
As may be seen in table 2, the C8/10 and C12/14-N/acyl-N-methylglucamines exhibit clear solutions at lower initial concentrations compared with comparative example 1, even without additional heating.
As test oil phase 2, a mixture of phenoxyethanollbenzyl alcohol/sorbitan caprylate (Velsan® SC)/dicaprylyl ether=1:1:1:1 was used. The usage rate was 2.0% by weight.
The test oil phase and an increasing amount of solubilizer (0.5/1/1.5/2/2.5% by weight of active substance) were mixed and made up to 100% with water at 20-25° C. with stirring. The turbidity of the solution was evaluated after 30 min. Turbid formulations were heated once more to approximately 60° C. after evaluation, and after they had cooled were evaluated again. The lowest concentration at which the solution became clear was noted (all figures in % by weight).
As may be seen in table 3, the N-acyl-N-methylglucamines according to the invention exhibit clear solutions at a low starting concentration compared with alkylpolyglucosides, even without additional heating.
Number | Date | Country | Kind |
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10 2012 010 654 | May 2012 | DE | national |
Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind |
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PCT/EP2013/061047 | 5/29/2013 | WO | 00 |
Publishing Document | Publishing Date | Country | Kind |
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WO2013/178671 | 12/5/2013 | WO | A |
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Number | Date | Country | |
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20150140048 A1 | May 2015 | US |