Patent Grant
7138109
This disclosure relates to the use, as a pre- or post-treatment of a process for bleaching keratin fibres, such as human hair, of a composition comprising at least one aminosilicone, as defined herein.
This disclosure also relates to processes for bleaching keratin fibres, such as human hair, comprising a pre- or post-treatment with a composition comprising at least one aminosilicone as defined herein.
Natural shades of dark hair may be lightened, for example, in a long-lasting manner though the use of at least one bleaching treatment. Artificial shades obtained through the use of at least one direct dye and/or at least one oxidation dye may also be lightened, for example, through the use of at least one bleaching treatment.
A bleaching composition used in these treatments may comprise ready-to-use thickened aqueous hydrogen peroxide compositions. A bleaching composition may be chosen, for example, from anhydrous products (powders and creams) comprising alkaline compounds (amines and alkaline silicates), and peroxygenated oxidizing reagents, such as ammonium and alkali metal persulphates, perborates and percarbonates, which may be diluted at the time of use with aqueous hydrogen peroxide.
These oxidizing treatments may cause sensitization of the hair; for example, the hair may become drier and more difficult to disentangle, with a coarser feel.
A bleaching treatment may also be chosen, for example, from ready-to-use compositions comprising at least one anhydrous product (e.g., a powder or a cream) comprising at least one reducing agent, which may be mixed at the time of use with an aqueous composition optionally comprising a pH agent. A composition comprising at least one reducing agent may cause sensitization of the hair.
To improve the condition of hair fibres after a bleaching treatment, at least one rinse-out or at least one leave-in care product chosen from conditioners, treating masks, treating creams and sera have been used, for example.
These care products have at least the drawback of being temporary and requiring reapplication each time the hair is washed.
They may make the hair lank, rendering it lifeless with an unnatural slippery coated feel.
There is thus a need to improve the condition of the hair after a bleaching treatment.
After considerable research, the inventors have discovered, surprisingly and unexpectedly, that the use, as a pre- or post-treatment on keratin fibres, such as human hair, of a composition comprising at least one aminosilicone as defined herein, solves at least one of the problems mentioned above.
A new embodiment relates to the use, as a pre- or post-treatment of a process for bleaching keratin fibres, such as human hair, of a composition comprising at least one aminosilicone chosen from formulae (I) and (II).
In another embodiment, the use may, for example, improve the condition of the fibres after bleaching. The fibres may, for example, become softer, smooth from the root to the end, individualized, light, supple and silky. The fibre may feel, for example, much more natural than when a prior art conditioner is used after a bleaching operation. The hair may disentangle well and style more easily. The treatment may also avoid modifying the lightening power of the bleaching treatment. At least one cosmetic effect may be long-lasting and/or visible for a long period of time, such as at least six weeks.
The phrase “improvement in the condition of the fibre” means, for example, a reduction in the porosity and/or the alkaline solubility of the fibre and a potential improvement in the cosmetic properties, such as smoothness, softness and ease of disentangling and of styling.
This effect may be remanent, e.g., long-lasting.
The porosity may be measured by fixing at 37° C. and at pH 10, for two minutes, 2-nitro-para-phenylenediamine at 0.25% in an ethanol/pH. 10 buffer mixture (10/90 volume ratio).
The alkaline solubility may correspond to the loss of mass of a sample of 100 mg of keratin fibres under the action of decinormal sodium hydroxide for 30 minutes at 65° C.
Another new embodiment relates to a bleaching process comprising: applying to keratin fibres, such as human hair, which may be wet or dry, washed or unwashed, a composition comprising at least one aminosilicone chosen from formulae (I) and (II); leaving the composition to act at room temperature or with a supply of heat; optionally rinsing the fibres; applying a bleaching composition; optionally washing the fibres; optionally rinsing the fibres; and optionally drying them.
Another new embodiment relates to a bleaching process comprising: applying a bleaching composition to keratin fibres, such as human hair; washing the fibres with shampoo; rinsing them with water; applying a composition comprising at least one aminosilicone chosen from formulae (I) and (II) to the wet or dry fibres; leaving the composition to act at room temperature or with a supply of heat; optionally rinsing the fibres; and optionally drying them. In another embodiment, the composition may be applied, for example, to the fibres immediately after bleaching or after an interval.
Aminosilicone(s)
The at least one aminosiliconeis chosen from formulae (I) and (II):
wherein:
For example, the alkoxy radical may be a methoxy radical.
The hydroxyl/alkoxy molar ratio may range, for example, from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1, for example, from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1, and further, for example, may be 0.3:1.
The at least one aminosilicone of formula (I) may have a weight-average molecular mass ranging, for example, from 2000 to 1 000 000, such as from 3500 to 200 000.
wherein:
For example, the alkoxy radical may be a methoxy radical.
The hydroxyl/alkoxy molar ratio may range, for example, from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1, for example, from 1:0.9 to 1:1, and further, for example, may be 1:0.95.
The at least one aminosilicone of formula (II) may have, for example, a weight-average molecular mass ranging from 2000 to 200 000, for example, from 5000 to 100 000, and further, for example, from 10 000 to 50 000.
The weight-average molecular mass of the at least one aminosilicone is measured by Gel Permeation Chromatography (GPC) at room temperature, as polystyrene equivalents. The columns used are styragel μ columns. The eluent is THF and the flow rate is 1 ml/minute. 200 μl of a solution at 0.5% by weight of silicone in THF are injected. The detection is performed by refractometry and UV-metry.
At least one commercial product comprising at least one aminosilicone chosen from formulae (I) and (II) may further comprise at least one aminosilicone other than those of formulae (I) and (II).
A product comprising at least one aminosilicone of structure (I) is sold, for example, by the company Wacker under the name Belsil ADM 652®.
A product comprising at least one aminosilicone of structure (II) is sold, for example, by the company Wacker under the name Fluid WR 1300®.
In another new embodiment, the at least one aminosilicone may be in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in-water emulsion may comprise at least one surfactant. The at least one surfactant may be chosen, for example, from cationic surfactants and non-ionic surfactants.
The aminosilicone particles in the emulsion may have a mean size ranging, for example, from 3 to 500 nanometres. Such particle sizes are measured with a laser granulometer.
For example, for the at least one aminosilicone of formula (II), microemulsions may range in size from 5 to 60 nanometres, for example, from 10 to 50 nanometres.
Microemulsions of the at least one aminosilicone of formula (II) are sold, for example, under the name Finish CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by the company Wacker.
The aminosilicone chosen from formulae (I) and (II) may be chosen, for example, such that the contact angle with water of a hair treated with a composition comprising 2% AM (active materials) of the at least one aminosilicone ranges from 90 to 180°, for example from 90 to 130°.
A composition comprising at least one aminosilicone chosen from formulae (I) and (II) may be chosen, for example, such that the contact angle of a hair treated with the composition ranges from 90 to 180°, for example, from 90 to 130°.
The contact angle measurement is based on immersing a hair in distilled water. It consists in evaluating the force exerted by the water on the hair during its immersion in distilled water and during its removal. The forces thus measured are directly linked to the contact angle θ between the water and the surface of the hair. The hair is said to be hydrophilic when the angle θ ranges from 0 to less than 90°, and hydrophobic when this angle ranges from 90 to 180°, limits included.
The test is carried out with locks of natural hair that have been bleached under the same conditions and then washed.
Each 1 gram lock is placed in a crystallizing dish 75 mm in diameter and then covered uniformly with 5 ml of the test formulation. The lock is left for 15 minutes at room temperature and then rinsed for 30 seconds. The drained lock is left in the open air until it is completely dry.
For each evaluation, 10 hairs that have undergone the same treatment are analysed. Each sample, attached to a precision microbalance, is immersed via its end in a container filled with distilled water. This DCA balance (“Dynamic Contact Angle Analyser”), from the company Cahn Instruments, allows the force (F) exerted by the water on the hair to be measured.
In parallel, the perimeter (P) of the hair is measured by means of observation by microscope.
The mean wettability force on 10 hairs and the cross section of the analysed hairs make it possible to obtain the contact angle of the hair on the water according to the formula:
F=P*┌lv*cos θ
where F is the wettability force expressed in newtons, P is the perimeter of the hair in metres, ┌lv is the liquid/water vapour interface tension in J/m2 and θ is the contact angle.
The product SLM 28020® from Wacker at 12% in water (i.e., 2% active materials) gives a contact angle of 93° according to the test indicated above.
The at least one aminosilicone chosen from formulae (I) and (II) may be present, for example, in a pre- or post-treatment composition, in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. This amount may range, for example, from 0.1% to 15% by weight, such as from 0.5% to 10% by weight.
A pre- or post-treatment composition may comprise, for example, any ingredient used in cosmetics, for example, the art of haircare. The pre- or post-treatment composition may comprise, for example, at least one surfactant and/or at least one polymer. The at least one surfactant and/or at least one polymer may be selected from, for example, nonionic, cationic, anionic and amphoteric compounds. The at least one polymer may be chosen, for example, from aminosilicones other than those of formulae (I) and (II).
A pre- or post-treatment composition may have, for example, a pH ranging from 2 to 11, such as from 4 to 9, when it is in aqueous form.
A pre- or post-treatment composition may be in a form chosen from, for example, lotions, gels, creams, shampoos, sticks, mousses and sprays. At least one of these forms may be packed in a form chosen from pump-dispenser bottles and aerosol containers. If in the form of an aerosol, for example, the composition may further comprise at least one propellant chosen from, for example, alkanes dimethyl ether, nitrogen, nitrous oxide, carbon dioxide, haloalkanes, and mixtures thereof.
Another new embodiment comprises the pre- or post-treatment composition in the form of a shampoo.
The composition may comprise, for example, at least one surfactant, such as an anionic surfactant. The composition may comprise at least one anionic surfactant and, for example, at least one surfactant chosen from nonionic surfactants and amphoteric surfactants
The post-treatment composition may be applied, for example, immediately after bleaching, or after an interval. The phrase “after an interval” means, for example, an application performed a few hours, one day or several days (e.g., from 1 to 60 days) after bleaching.
Several applications may occur, for example, between bleaching operations.
The number of applications between bleaching operations may range, for example, from 1 to 60, and further, for example, from 2 to 30.
A pre- or post-treatment composition may be used, for example, in rinse-out or leave-in mode, e.g., its application may or may not be followed by a rinsing operation.
If the application is followed by rinsing, the acting time of the pre- or post-treatment composition ranges, for example, from a few seconds to 60 minutes, such as from 30 seconds to 15 minutes.
The application temperature of the pre- or post-treatment composition may range, for example, from 10 to 70° C. The application temperature may range, for example, from 20 to 60° C., such as at room temperature.
Illustrative, non-limiting examples follow.
The following three compositions were prepared. (expressed as grams of Active Material)
Compositions A, B and C were each applied to natural chestnut-brown hair:
In pre-treatment, the hair was thus treated with these compositions A, B and C for 30 minutes at a temperature of 37° C., washed with water, bleached with Platifiz® and rinsed again thoroughly before drying.
As a post-treatment, the hair was bleached with Platifiz® and rinsed with water before being treated with compositions A, B and C, and then rinsed again thoroughly before being dried.
After these treatments, the hair was smoother, softer and easier to disentangle than in the absence of a pre- or post-treatment.
In addition, the level of bleaching was not altered by the treatments.
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