Patent Application
20050039270
The present invention relates to the use of particular polycarboxylic acids and salts thereof as complexing agents in oxidizing compositions for dyeing, bleaching or permanently reshaping keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres and more especially the hair.
The invention also relates to oxidizing compositions for dyeing, bleaching or permanently reshaping keratin fibres, which contain such complexing agents, and also to processes and devices or “kits” for dyeing, bleaching or permanently reshaping keratin fibres.
It is known practice, to dye keratin fibres, such as human hair, to use dye compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, in particular ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols, and heterocyclic bases, which are generally known as oxidation bases. Oxidation dye precursors are colourless or weakly coloured precursors, which, when combined with oxidizing products, can give rise to'coloured compounds and dyes via a process of oxidative condensation. The shades obtained with these oxidation bases can be varied by combining them with couplers or coloration modifiers, these agents being chosen from aromatic meta-diamines, meta-amino-phenols, meta-diphenols and certain heterocyclic compounds.
The coloration generated by the application to the fibres to be coloured of dye compositions in the presence of oxidizing products may be for the purpose of colouring grey hair, but also for modifying the colour of natural or dyed hair. In the latter case, it is necessary, in particular when the desired colour is several tones below the initial colour of the hair to be dyed, to bleach the hair to be dyed prior to dyeing it.
There is also a need to lighten, and thus to bleach, the hair without, however, wishing to recolour it.
Two types of composition are generally used to bleach keratin fibres: compositions that are “oxidizing”, since they contain one or more agents capable of oxidizing the melanin of the hair and thus of dissolving it in order to totally or partially remove it, and compositions that are, in contrast, “reducing”, since they contain one or more reducing agents such as ascorbic acid or thiols, the latter compositions being intended more especially for bleaching hair that has previously been dyed with exogenous pigments.
As regards permanent reshaping, it is common practice to apply to hair that has been placed under tension beforehand, for example using rollers if the desired reshaping is curls, a composition containing one or more reducing agents so as to induce the opening of the disulphide bridges formed by the cysteine residues of the hair keratin, and then, generally after rinsing, to reoxidize the hair in order to fix its reshaping, by applying an oxidizing composition.
As regards the oxidizing compositions that are necessary for performing the fixing step, use is usually made, in practice, of compositions based on aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution, sodium bromate or persalts, for instance sodium perborate.
Whether they are intended for dyeing, bleaching or permanent reshaping, the oxidizing compositions contain, in principle, a complexing agent intended to complex the metal cations that may be present in trace amounts in these compositions, and also those that may be present on the hair, originating from the ambient air, from the water with which this hair has been washed, or shampoos or other hair products with which the hair has been treated.
Specifically, it is very important to neutralize these metal cations, since they are capable of catalysing oxidation reactions on the hair fibres, and of doing so in an uncontrolled manner, which may be reflected by severe adverse effects such as breaking of the hair or burning of the scalp.
The complexing agents that are currently the most commonly used in oxidizing compositions for dyeing, bleaching or permanently reshaping keratin fibres are ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and derivatives thereof, for instance diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DPTA), generally in weight proportions of about 0.1% to 1%.
However, in the context of its research, the Applicant has found that EDTA and derivatives thereof have insufficient properties in compositions of this type. These findings, which are corroborated by the results obtained by other research teams, justify the search for novel complexing agents.
A complexing agent intended to form part of the constitution of oxidizing compositions for dyeing, bleaching or permanently reshaping keratin fibres should satisfy many requirements. Specifically, besides the fact that it should have high complexing power with respect to metals so as to remove, or at the very least minimize, the risk of catalysis of oxidation reactions on the keratin fibres by the traces of metals possibly present in these compositions and on these fibres, it should be compatible, and especially should not react, with the other constituents, and in particular with the oxidizing agent(s). It should also be stable in solution, since, specifically, the oxidizing compositions are generally applied to the keratin fibres in the form of solutions. It should also be entirely harmless with respect to these fibres and to the skin, and especially should have no allergenic nature.
It is also desirable, out of concern for the environment, for it to be biodegradable, and for its production cost or purchase cost to allow it to be used in compositions intended to be sold not only to professionals but also in mass distribution.
Now, after extensive research conducted in this matter, the Applicant has discovered that, surprisingly, certain polyacids and salts thereof are capable of satisfying all these requirements and consequently of representing complexing agents of choice in oxidizing compositions for dyeing, bleaching and permanently reshaping keratin fibres.
This discovery forms the basis of the invention.
Thus, a first subject of the invention is the use, as an agent for complexing metal cations present in an oxidizing composition, comprising at least one oxidizing agent, for bleaching, dyeing or permanently reshaping keratin fibres, of at least one compound corresponding to formula (I) below:
R—N— (CH(R′)CO2X)2 (I)
in which:
Thus, the complexing agents used in the context of the invention correspond to polycarboxylic acid compounds and to the corresponding carboxylates.
More specifically, the complexing agents correspond to:
In accordance with the invention, when the compound(s) of formula (I) is(are) carboxylates, then the monovalent or divalent cation is preferably chosen from the group consisting of monovalent alkali metal cations, divalent alkaline-earth metal cations, divalent transition metal cations and monovalent cations derived from organic amines or from ammonium cations.
Examples of alkali metal cations that may especially be mentioned include sodium (Na+) and potassium (K+), while examples of alkaline-earth metal cations that may especially be mentioned include calcium (Ca2+) and magnesium (Mg2+).
For the purpose of the present invention, the term “transition metal” means a metal comprising an incomplete d subshell, more particularly in oxidation state II, such as cobalt (Co2+), iron (Fe2+), manganese (Mn2+), zinc (Zn2+) and copper (Cu2+).
As regards the organic amine monovalent cations, mention may be made of primary, secondary or tertiary amine cations or alternatively alkanolamine cations.
Said amines contain one or more radicals, which may be identical or different, of linear or branched C1 to C20 alkyl type, optionally comprising a heteroatom such as oxygen.
As regards the quaternary ammonium monovalent cations, these comprise three radicals, which may be identical or different, chosen from hydrogen and a linear or branched C1 to C20 alkyl radical, optionally comprising a heteroatom such as oxygen.
In accordance with the invention, when the compound(s) of formula (I) is (are) carboxylates, then the monovalent or divalent cation is preferably chosen from the group consisting of alkali metal cations, alkaline-earth metal cations and divalent transition metal cations, and cations derived from organic amines or from ammonium.
The compound(s) of formula (I) is (are) preferably chosen from the group consisting of methylglycinediacetic acid, N-lauroyl-N,N′,N′-ethylenediaminetriacetic acid, iminodisuccinic acid and N,N-dicarboxymethyl-L-glutamic acid, the alkali metal salts thereof, the alkaline-earth metal salts thereof, the transition metal salts thereof, the organic amine salts thereof and the ammonium salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
Methylglycinediacetic acid, N-lauroyl-N,N′,N′-ethylenediamine-tiacetic acid, iminodisuccinic acid and N,N-dicarboxymethyl-L-glutamic acid and, and the salts thereof, are respectively represented by formulae (II), (III), (IV) and (V) below:
These compounds are especially available from the companies BASF, Dow Chemical, Hampshire, Bayer and Showa Denko.
Methylglycinediacetic acid and the sodium salts thereof are more particularly preferred.
Preferably, the compound(s) of formula (I) represent(s) from 0.001% to 10% by weight and better still from 0.001% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition. The weight percentages are expressed relative to the acid form of the compound(s) of formula (I).
In accordance with the invention, the oxidizing composition comprises one or more oxidizing agents, which may be chosen from the oxidizing agents conventionally used in cosmetic compositions for dyeing, bleaching and permanently reshaping keratin fibres. Among the oxidizing agents conventionally used that may be mentioned are hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts such as perborates, percarbonates and persulphates, and peracids.
According to the invention, it is particularly advantageous to use as complexing agents methylglycinediacetic acid or iminodisuccinic acid, optionally in the form of salts in combination with aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution.
According to the invention, the oxidizing composition may comprise, in addition to the compound(s) of formula (I) and the oxidizing agent(s), one or more compounds chosen from:
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “cationic conditioning polymer” means any polymer which comprises cationic groups or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups and which can improve the cosmetic properties of keratin fibres, in particular the disentangling, the softness, the sheen and the volume.
The cationic or amphoteric conditioning polymers that are suitable are advantageously chosen from those already known per se as improving the cosmetic properties of the hair, that is to say, especially, those described in patents and patent applications EP 337 354, FR 2 270 846, FR 2 383 660, FR 2 598 611, FR 2 470 596, FR 2 519 863, FR 2 788 974 and FR 2 788 976 for a list of these compounds.
However, more specific examples of cationic conditioning polymers that may especially be mentioned include cationic polymers comprising at least primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups, which either may form part of the main polymer chain, or may be borne by a side substituent directly attached thereto.
Thus, mention may be made of:
Mention may be made, for example, of polymers comprising the following repeating units:
Other cationic conditioning polymers that can be used in the context of the invention are polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.
The amphoteric conditioning polymer(s) that may be present in the oxidizing composition may themselves be chosen especially from polymers comprising units K and M randomly distributed in the polymer chain, in which K denotes a unit derived from a monomer comprising at least one basic nitrogen atom and M denotes a unit derived from an acidic monomer comprising one or more carboxylic or sulphonic groups; alternatively K and M may denote groups derived from zwitterionic carboxybetaine or sulphobetaine monomers; alternatively, K and M denote a cationic polymer chain comprising primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups, in which at least one of the amine groups bears a carboxylic or sulphonic group linked via a hydrocarbon-based radical; alternatively K and M form part of a chain of a polymer containing an α,β-dicarboxylic ethylene unit in which one of the carboxylic groups has reacted with a polyamine comprising one or more primary or secondary amine groups.
The amphoteric conditioning polymers corresponding to the above definition that are more particularly preferred are chosen from the following polymers:
Among the cationic or amphoteric conditioning polymers that may be used, the following are especially preferred:
When the oxidizing composition comprises one or more cationic or amphoteric conditioning polymers, this or these polymer(s) then generally represent from 0.01% to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.05% to 5% of the total weight of this composition.
(B) Nonionic, Anionic, Cationic or Amphoteric Amphiphilic Polymers Comprising a Hydrophobic Chain:
More particularly, the hydrophobic chain is a saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic, linear or branched C6-C30 hydrocarbon-based chain, optionally comprising one or more oxyalkylene (oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene) units.
Among the cationic amphiphilic polymers comprising a hydrophobic chain that may be found are cationic polyurethanes or cationic copolymers comprising vinyllactam units and in particular vinylpyrrolidone units.
Preferably, the amphiphilic polymers comprising a hydrophobic chain will be of nonionic or anionic nature.
As examples of nonionic amphiphilic polymers containing a hydrophobic chain, mention may be made, inter alia, of:
The polyurethane polyethers comprise a urethane bond between the hydrophilic blocks, but may also contain hydrophilic blocks linked to the lipophilic blocks via other chemical bonds.
The polyurethane polyethers are in particular those described in the article by G. Formum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen—Colloid Polym. Sci. 271, 380-389 (1993). Examples of polyurethane polyethers that may be mentioned include Nuvis FX 1100 (European and US INCI name “Steareth-100/PEG-136/HMDI Copolymer” sold by the company Servo Delden); Rheolate 205, 208, 204 or 212 (sold by the company Rheox); Elfacos T210 (Cl2-C14 alkyl chain) and Elfacos T212 (C18 alkyl chain) sold by the company Akzo.
The anionic amphiphilic polymers containing a hydrophobic chain that may be used comprise, as hydrophobic chain, at least one saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic, linear or branched C8-C30 hydrocarbon-based chain.
More particularly, the anionic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one hydrophobic chain which are crosslinked or non-crosslinked, comprise at least one hydrophilic unit derived from one or more ethylenically unsaturated monomers bearing a carboxylic acid function, or a sulphonic function which is free or partially or totally neutralized, and at least one hydrophobic unit derived from one or more ethylenically unsaturated monomers bearing a hydrophobic side chain, and optionally at least one crosslinking unit derived from one or more polyunsaturated monomers.
Anionic amphiphilic polymers of the type described above are described and prepared, for example, in patents U.S. Pat. No. 3,915,921 and U.S. Pat. No. 4,509,949 (copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of C10-C30 alkyl (meth)acrylates) or in patent EP 216 479 (copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of fatty alkyl allyl ethers).
The amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one sulphonic group, in free or partially or totally neutralized form and at least one hydrophobic portion are described, for example, in FR 00/16954 and FR 01/00328, the content of which forms an integral part of the present invention.
Among these, mention may be made more particularly of acrylamido-2-methyl-2-propanesulphonic (AMPS) acid/n-dodecylacrylamide copolymer neutralized with sodium hydroxide, the copolymer crosslinked with methylenebisacrylamide consisting of 75% by weight of AMPS units neutralized by NH3 and 25% by weight of Genapol T-250 acrylate units, the copolymer crosslinked with allyl methacrylate consisting of 90% by weight of AMPS units neutralized with NH3 and 10% by weight of Genapol T-250 methacrylate units, or the copolymer crosslinked with allyl methacrylate consisting of 80% by weight of AMPS units neutralized with NH3 and 20% by weight of Genapol T-250 methacrylate units.
Examples of preferred polymers that may be mentioned include Carbopol ETD-2020 (acrylic acid/C10-C30 alkyl methacrylate crosslinked copolymer—sold by the company Noveon); Carbopol 1382, Pemulen TR1 and Pemulen TR2 (acrylic acid/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked copolymers—sold by the company Noveon), the methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/oxyethylenated stearyl methacrylate copolymer (55/35/10); the (meth)acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/25 EO oxyethylenated behenyl methacrylate copolymer (Aculyn 28 sold by Rohm & Haas) and the methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/steareth-10 allyl ether crosslinked copolymer.
When the oxidizing composition comprises one or more amphiphilic polymer(s) containing a hydrophobic chain, then this or these polymer(s) generally represent(s) from 0.05% to 20% by weight and better still from 0.1% to 10% of the total weight of this composition.
(C) Surfactants:
The surfactant(s) that may be present in the oxidizing composition may be chosen, without preference, from anionic, nonionic, amphoteric and cationic surfactants.
Anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or cationic surfactants that are suitable for use in the invention are especially the following:
Anionic Surfactants:
By way of examples of anionic surfactants that may be used, alone or as mixtures, mention may be made of salts, in particular alkaline salts (sodium salts, magnesium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, amino alcohol salts, etc.) of the following compounds: alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamido ether sulphates, alkylarylpolyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates; alkyl sulphonates, alkyl phosphates, alkylamide sulphonates, alkylaryl sulphonates, α-olefin sulphonates, paraffin sulphonates; (C6-C24) alkyl sulphosuccinates, (C6-C24) alkyl ether sulphosuccinates, (C6-C24) alkylamide sulphosuccinates; (C6-C24) alkyl sulphoacetates; (C6-C24)acyl sarcosinates; and (C6-C24)acyl glutamates.
Mention may also be made of (C6-C24)alkylpolyglycoside carboxylic esters such as alkylpolyglucoside citrates, alkylpolyglucoside tartrates, alkylpolyglucoside sulphosuccinates and alkylpolyglucoside sulphosuccinamates; acyl isethionates and N-acyl taurates, the alkyl or acyl radical of all of these different compounds preferably containing from 12 to 20 carbon atoms and the aryl radical preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group.
It is also possible to use fatty acid salts such as the salts of oleic, ricinoleic, palmitic and stearic acid, and the salts of coconut oil acid or hydrogenated coconut oil acid; acyl lactylates in which the acyl radical contains 8 to 20 carbon atoms; alkyl D-galactoside uronic acids and their salts; polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkyl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkylamido ether carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups and more, especially ethylene oxide groups, and mixtures thereof.
Nonionic Surfactants:
Nonionic surfactants are compounds that are well known per se (see for example the “Handbook of Surfactants” by M. R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178) and their nature is not a critical feature in the context of the present invention.
Thus, used alone or as mixtures, they can be chosen especially from polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated, alkylphenols, α-diols or alcohols having a fatty chain containing, for example, 8 to 18 carbon atoms, it being possible for the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups to range in particular from 2 to 50; copolymers of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide, condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide, polyglycerolated fatty amides containing on average 1 to 5, and in particular 1.5 to 4, glycerol groups; oxyethylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan having from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; fatty acid esters of sucrose, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; alkylpolyglycosides; N-alkylglucamine derivatives, and amine oxides such as (C10-C14)alkylamine oxides or N-acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides.
Amphoteric Surfactants:
The amphoteric (or zwitterionic) surfactants, the nature of which is not a critical feature in the context of the present invention, may be chosen especially, alone or as mixtures, from aliphatic secondary or tertiary amine derivatives in which the aliphatic radical is a linear or branched chain containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-solubilizing anionic group, for example carboxylate, sulphonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate.
Mention may also be made of (C8-C20)alkylbetaines, sulphobetaines, (C8-C20) alkylamido(C1-C6)alkylbetaines or (C8-C20)alkylamido(C1-C6)alkylsulphobetaines.
Among the amine derivatives, mention may be made especially of the products sold by the company Rhodia Chimie under the trade name Miranol®, which are described in U.S. Pat. No. 2,528,378 and U.S. Pat. No. 2,781,354 and classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names “disodium cocoamphodiacetate”, “disodium lauroamphodiacetate”, “disodium caprylamphodiacetate”, “disodium capryloamphodiacetate”, “disodium cocoamphodipropionate”, “disodium lauroamphodipropionate”, “disodium caprylamphodipropionate”, “disodium capryloamphodiprbpionate”, “lauroamphodipropionic acid” and “cocoamphodipropionic acid”.
Cationic Surfactants:
As cationic surfactants that may be used, alone or as mixtures, mention may be made of salts of optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines; quaternary ammonium salts such as tetraalkylammonium, alkylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium, trialkylbenzylammonium, trialkylhydroxyalkylammonium or alkylpyridinium chlorides or bromides; imidazoline derivatives; and amine oxides of cationic nature.
When the oxidizing composition comprises one or more surfactants, then this or these agent(s) generally represent(s) from 0.01% to 40% by weight and better still from 0.1% to 30% of the total weight of this composition.
(D) Rheology Modifiers Other Than the Polymers (B):
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “rheology modifier” means any compound capable of giving a viscosity to the oxidizing composition such that, once it is applied onto keratin fibres, this composition does not run, and remains perfectly localized at the point of application
It should be noted that said agent described below lacks a hydrophobic chain, i.e. a saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic, linear or branched C8-C30 hydrocarbon-based chain optionally comprising one or more oxyalkylene (oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene) units.
The rheology modifier(s) that may be present in the oxidizing composition is (are) polymers of natural origin or synthetic polymers, and are advantageously chosen from those conventionally used in cosmetics.
Examples of synthetic polymers that may be mentioned include polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyacrylic acid, polyacrylamide, non-crosslinked poly(2-acrylamidopropanesulphonic acid) (Simugel EG from the company SEPPIC), crosslinked poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid), free or partially neutralized with ammonia (Hostacerin AMPS from Clariant), mixtures of non-crosslinked poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) with hydroxyalkylcellulose ethers or with poly(ethylene oxide)s, as described in patent U.S. Pat. No. 4,540,510; mixtures of poly((meth)acrylamido(C1-C4)alkylsulphonic acid), which is preferably crosslinked, with a crosslinked copolymer of maleic anhydride and of a (C1-C5)alkyl vinyl ether (Hostacerin AMPS/Stabileze QM from the company ISF).
The thickening polymers of natural origin are preferably polymers comprising at least one sugar unit, for instance nonionic guar gums, optionally modified with C1C6 hydroxyalkyl groups; biopolysaccharide gums of microbial origin, such as scleroglucan gum or xanthan gum; gums derived from plant exudates, such as gum arabic, ghatti gum, karaya gum, gum tragacanth, carrageenan gum, agar gum and carob gum; pectins; alginates; starches; hydroxy (C1-C6) alkylcelluloses and carboxy(C1-C6) alkylcelluloses.
It should be noted that the term “sugar unit” denotes a monosaccharide (i.e. monosaccharide or oside or simple sugar) portion, an oligosaccharide portion (short chains formed from a sequence of monosaccharide units, which may be different) or a polysaccharide portion [long chains consisting of monosaccharide units, which may be different, i.e. polyholosides or polyosides]. The saccharide units may also be substituted with alkyl, hydroxyalkyl, alkoxy, acyloxy or carboxyl radicals, the alkyl radicals containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
Examples of nonionic, unmodified guar gums that may be mentioned, inter alia, include Guargel D/15 (Goodrich); Vidogum GH 175 (Unipectine), Meypro-Guar 50 and Jaguar C (Meyhall/Rhodia Chimie); and the modified nonionic guar gums that may be mentioned include Jaguar HP8, HP60, HP120, DC 293 and HP 105 (Meyhall/Rhodia Chimie); Galactasol 4H4FD2 (Aqualon).
The biopolysaccharide gums of microbial or plant origin are well known to those skilled in the art and are described especially in the book by Robert L. Davidson entitled “Handbook of Water soluble gums and resins” published by McGraw Hill Book Company (1980).
Among these gums, mention will be made of scleroglucans such as, especially, Actigum CS from Sanofi Bio Industries; Amigel from Alban Muller International, and also the glyoxal-treated scleroglucans described in FR 2 633 940); xanthan gums, for instance Keltrol, Keltrol T, Keltrol Tf, Keltrol Bt, Keltrol Rd, Keltrol Cg (Nutrasweet Kelco), Rhodicare S and Rhodicare H (Rhodia Chimie); starch derivatives, for instance Primogel (Avebe); hydroxyethylcelluloses such as Cellosize QP3L, QP4400H, QP30000H, HEC30000A and Polymer PCG10 (Amerchol), Natrosol 250HHR, 250MR, 250M, 250HHXR, 250HHX, 250HR, HX (Hercules) and Tylose H1000 (Hoechst); hydroxypropylcelluloses, for instance Klucel EF, H, LHF, MF and G (Aqualon); carboxymethylcelluloses, for instance Blanose 7M8/SF, refined 7M, 7LF, 7MF, 9M31F, 12M31XP, 12M31P, 9M31XF, 7H, 7M31, 7H3SXF (Aqualon), Aquasorb A500 (Hercules), Ambergum 1221 (Hercules), Cellogen HP810A, HP6HS9 (Montello) and Primellose (Avebe).
The composition may also comprise in replacement for or in combination with at least one rheology modifier, at least one linear or non-linear, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30 carboxylic acid alkylamide, and optionally bearing one or more hydroxyl groups.
Moreover, the nitrogen of the amide group may be monosubstituted or disubstituted. It is preferably monosubstituted.
The amide may comprise 1 to 20 oxyalkylene (oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene) units, preferably oxyethylene units.
When the oxidizing composition comprises one or more rheology modifiers, then this or these agent(s) generally represent(s) from 0.05% to 20% by weight and better still from 0.1% to 10% of the total weight of this composition.
(E) pH Modifiers:
The pH of the oxidizing composition may be between 1.5 and 12.
However, it is preferable for this pH to be between 1.5 and 10 and better still between 1.5 and 7 in the case where the oxidizing composition is intended for bleaching keratin fibres, and for it to be between 6 and 12 and preferably between 7 and 11 when it is intended for permanently reshaping keratin fibres.
Such pH values may be obtained using acidifying or basifying agents.
As examples of acidifying agents that may be used, mention may be made of mineral or organic acids, for instance hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, orthophosphoric acid, acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, boric acid and sulphonic acids.
The basifying agents may themselves be chosen especially from aqueous ammonia, ammonium or alkaline carbonates, alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine and derivatives thereof, hydroxyalkylamines, oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and the compounds of the formula (XIX) below:
in which:
When the oxidizing composition comprises one or more acidifying agents or one or more basifying agents, then this or these agent(s) generally represent(s) from 0.01% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of this composition.
(F) Solvents:
The solvents that may be present in the oxidizing composition are especially water and mixtures composed of water and of one or more cosmetically acceptable organic solvents, this or these organic solvent(s) possibly being, in particular, alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, benzyl alcohol, phenylethyl alcohol or cetyl alcohol; polyols, for instance propylene glycol and glycerol; glycol ethers, for instance ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, monoethyl ether and monobutyl ether, and also glycol alkyl ethers, for instance diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether.
This or these organic solvent(s), when it is (they are) present in the oxidizing composition, generally represent(s) from 0.5% to 20% by weight and better still from 2% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of this composition.
Depending on its intended use and the particular properties desired to be given thereto, the oxidizing composition may also comprise one or more additives chosen from:
Each of these adjuvants may represent, when it is present in the oxidizing composition, up to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of this composition.
In accordance with the invention, the oxidizing composition is a composition that is preferably intended for dyeing, bleaching or permanently reshaping human keratin fibres, and more especially the hair.
A subject of the present invention is also an oxidizing composition for dyeing, bleaching or permanently reshaping keratin fibres, comprising at least one oxidizing agent and at least one compound corresponding to formula (I) below:
R—N— (CH(R′)CO2x)2 (I)
in which:
According to the invention, when X represents a monovalent metal cation, this cation may be chosen from the group of alkali metal cations, such as K+ and Na+.
According to the invention, when X represents a divalent metal cation, this cation may be chosen from the group of alkaline-earth metal cations or transition metal cations, such as Ca2+, Mg2+, Co2+, Fe2+, Mn2+ and Zn2+.
As mentioned previously, among the compounds of formula (I) above that can form part of the composition of the invention, mention may be made of the preferred compounds chosen from the group consisting of methylglycinediacetic acid, N-lauroyl-N,N′,N′-ethylenediamiaminetriacetic acid, iminodisuccinic acid, N,N-dicarboxymethyl-L-glutamic acid and iminodisuccinic acid, and the corresponding salts thereof, the compound that is most preferred being methylglycinediacetic acid.
As mentioned previously, the oxidizing composition according to the invention comprises at least one oxidizing agent, said oxidizing agent possibly being chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts such as perborates, percarbonates and persulphates, and peracids. The oxidizing agent is preferably a persulphate.
In accordance with the invention, the compositions that are preferred are those in which the compounds of formula (I) are methylglycinediacetic acid or iminodisuccinic acid, optionally in the form of salts, and the oxidizing agent is aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution.
As mentioned previously, the compound(s) of formula (I) preferably represent(s) from 0.001% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition.
As mentioned previously, the oxidizing composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the compound(s) of formula (I) and the oxidizing agent(s), one or more compounds chosen from:
These compounds may be chosen from those mentioned previously, and are present in the oxidizing composition in proportions similar to those mentioned previously for each of them.
A subject of the present invention is also a process for bleaching or permanently reshaping keratin fibres, successively comprising the steps consisting in:
When this process is a permanent-reshaping process, the first step of this process consists in applying a reducing composition to the hair. This application is performed lock by lock or all at once.
The reducing composition comprises at least one reducing agent, which may be chosen in particular from thioglycolic acid, cysteine, cysteamine, glyceryl thioglycolate, thiolactic acid, or thiolactic acid or thioglycolic acid salts.
The usual step for placing the hair under tension in a shape corresponding to the final shape desired for this hair (for example curls) may be performed by any means, especially mechanical means, which is suitable and known per se for holding the hair under tension, for instance rollers, curlers and the like.
Before performing the optional rinsing step (iii), the head of hair onto which the reducing composition has been applied should conventionally be left to stand for a few minutes, generally between 5 minutes and 1 hour and preferably between 10 and 30 minutes, so as to give the reducing agent enough time to act correctly on the hair. This waiting phase preferably takes place at a temperature ranging from 35° C. to 45° C., while preferably also protecting the hair with a bonnet.
In the optional rinsing step, the hair impregnated with the reducing composition is then rinsed thoroughly with an aqueous composition.
Next, after the optional rinsing step, the oxidizing composition of the invention is applied to the hair (step a)), with the aim of fixing the new shape given to the hair.
As in the case of the application of the reducing composition, the head of hair onto which the oxidizing composition has been applied is then, conventionally, left in a standing or waiting phase that lasts a few minutes, generally between 3 and 30 minutes and preferably between 5 and 15 minutes.
If the tension of the hair is maintained by external means, these means (rollers, curlers and the like) may be removed from the head of hair before or after the fixing step.
Lastly, in the final step of the process according to the invention (step c), the hair impregnated with the oxidizing composition is rinsed thoroughly, generally with water.
When the process is a process for bleaching keratin fibres, said process comprises, as defined above, a step of applying an oxidizing composition according to the invention to the keratin fibres. Conventionally, a second step of the bleaching process according to the invention is a step of rinsing the keratin fibres.
A subject of the present invention is also a process for dyeing keratin fibres, successively comprising the steps consisting in:
According to another variant of the invention, the process successively comprises the steps consisting in:
According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the dyeing process may comprise a preliminary step that consists in mixing, before application to the keratin fibres, a composition comprising at least one dye precursor with an oxidizing composition according to the invention, said oxidizing composition allowing, by virtue of the presence of an oxidizing agent and the presence of a complexing agent in accordance with the invention, the development of the dye precursor of the first composition, said resulting composition then being applied to the keratin fibres.
Irrespective of the embodiment of this dyeing process, the time required for the development generally ranges between 3 and 60 minutes and more specifically between 5 and 40 minutes, the standing time after application of the compositions to the keratin fibres ranging from 5 minutes to 1 hour and preferably from 10 to 30 minutes.
Another subject of the present invention is a device or “kit” for dyeing keratin fibres, comprising at least two compositions A and B intended to be mixed together to obtain a ready-to-use dye composition, the composition A being the oxidizing composition and the composition B being a composition comprising at least one dye, said device being characterized in that the composition A contains at least one or more compounds corresponding to the general formula (I) below:
R—N—(CH(R′)CO2X)2 (I)
in which:
A subject of the invention is also a device or “kit” for bleaching keratin fibres, comprising at least two compositions C and D intended to be mixed together to obtain a ready-to-use oxidizing composition, said device being characterized in that at least one of the compositions C and D contains one or more oxidizing agents and at least one contains one or more compounds corresponding to the general formula (I) below:
R—N—(CH(R′) CO2X)2 (I)
Finally, a subject of the invention is a device or “kit” for permanently reshaping keratin fibres, comprising at least two compositions E and F, composition E being an oxidizing composition and composition F being a reducing composition, said device being characterized in that composition E contains one or more oxidizing agents and at least one or more compounds corresponding to the general formula (I) below:
R—N—(CH(R′) CO2X)2 (I)
in which:
Finally, a subject of the invention is the use of a composition as defined above, or of a process as defined above or of a device as defined above, for dyeing, bleaching or permanently reshaping human keratin fibres and more especially the hair.
Besides the preceding arrangements, the invention also comprises other arrangements which will emerge from the rest of the description that follows, which refer to embodiments of reducing compositions for dyeing, bleaching and permanently reshaping keratin fibres.
It goes without saying that these examples are given for illustrative purposes and do not in any way limit the subject of the invention.
In this example, the stability of two oxidizing compositions—A and B, respectively—is tested, the oxidizing composition A being a composition comprising a complexing agent not in accordance with the invention (diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid in salt form) and composition B being a composition comprising a complexing agent in accordance with the present invention (methylglycinediacetic acid in salt form). Table I below specifies the constituents included in compositions A and B, the amounts being expressed as percentages by mass.
(1)Dissolvine ® from Azko
(2)Trilon M Liquide ® from BASF
The stability of these two compositions is determined by measuring the aqueous hydrogen peroxide titre, before (t1) and after (t2).
The stability index corresponds to the ratio of the aqueous hydrogen peroxide titre at t2 to the aqueous hydrogen peroxide titre at t1.
Three tests were performed for each composition. Table 2 collates the mean stability indices for each of the abovementioned compositions.
In this example, two oxidizing compositions—C and D, respectively—intended for use in dyeing keratin fibres were prepared, composition C being a composition comprising a complexing agent not in accordance with the invention, and composition D being a composition comprising a complexing agent in accordance with the invention.
Table III represents the qualitative and quantitative compositions of these compositions, the amounts being expressed as percentages by mass.
(9)Dissolvine ® from Akzo
(10)Trilon M Liquide ® from BASF
Compositions C and D were mixed with an equal amount of a neutral dye composition Recital, into which is introduced:
The resulting compositions are applied for 30 minutes to locks of permanent-waved natural grey hair containing 90% white hairs, in a proportion of 10 g of composition per 1 g of lock of hair.
In this example, an oxidizing composition E intended for use in permanently reshaping keratin fibres, and comprising a complexing agent in accordance with the invention, was prepared.
Table IV gives its qualitative and quantitative composition, the amounts being expressed in percentages by mass.
In this example, two oxidizing compositions—F and G, respectively—intended for use in bleaching were prepared, these compositions both being anhydrous compositions, in pulverulent form, comprising a complexing agent in accordance with the invention.
Table V shows the qualitative and quantitative compositions of these compositions, the amounts being expressed as percentages by mass.
(13)Imino disuccinate VP OC sodium salt powder (N-305) from Bayer;
(14)SER-AD FX 1100 ® from Servo Delden;
(15)Carbopol ETD 2020 ® from Noveon;
(16)Silkflo 366 NF Polydecene ® from Amoco Chemical
The bleaching composition F (40 g) is mixed with the oxidizing composition based on aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution E (80 g). The ready-to-use bleaching mixture thus obtained is applied for 45 minutes, under a hood, to dark natural hair, and is then rinsed out thoroughly with water. After these operations, strong, uniform bleaching is obtained.
The bleaching composition G (40 g) is mixed with the oxidizing composition based on aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution E (60 g). The ready-to-use bleaching mixture thus obtained is applied for 30 minutes, under a hood, to dark natural hair, and is then rinsed out thoroughly with water. After these operations, strong, uniform bleaching is obtained, and the hair is soft, shiny and easy to disentangle.
In this example, two oxidizing compositions—H and I, respectively—intended for use in bleaching were prepared, these compositions both being anhydrous compositions, in paste form, comprising a complexing agent in accordance with the invention.
Table VI shows the qualitative and quantitative compositions of these compositions, the amounts being expressed as percentages by mass.
(17)Imino disuccinate VP OC sodium salt powder (N-305) from Bayer;
(18)SER-AD FX 1100 ® from Servo Delden;
(19)Carbopol ETD 2020 ® from Noveon.
The bleaching composition H (40 g) is mixed with the oxidizing composition based on aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution E (80 g). The ready-to-use bleaching mixture thus obtained is applied for 45 minutes, under a hood, to dark natural hair, and is then rinsed out thoroughly with water. After these operations, strong uniform bleaching is obtained, and the hair is soft, shiny and easy to disentangle.
The bleaching composition I (40 g) is mixed with the oxidizing composition based on aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution E (60 g). The ready-to-use bleaching mixture thus obtained is applied for 25 minutes, under a hood, to dark natural hair, and is then rinsed out thoroughly with water. After these operations, strong, uniform bleaching is obtained, and the hair is soft, shiny and easy to disentangle.
In this example, in a first stage, a reducing composition is prepared.
Table VII gives the qualitative and quantitative composition, the amounts being expressed as percentages by mass.
Composition J is applied to a lock of wet hair, which has been rolled up beforehand on a curler 9 mm in diameter, the leave-in time being 10 minutes. Next, the lock thus treated is rinsed thoroughly with water.
In a second stage, an oxidizing composition, referred to as composition K, is prepared. Table VIII shows the qualitative and quantitative composition, the amounts being expressed as percentages by mass.
(20)XUS-40855.00 ® from Dow Chemical
Composition K is applied to the locks previously treated with the reducing composition J, by applying said composition K for a leave-in time of 10 minutes. Next, the locks are rinsed thoroughly with water. Finally, the hair is unrolled from the roller and then dried. The locks thus treated are wavy.
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| 0350078 | Mar 2003 | FR | national |
| 0350064 | Mar 2003 | FR | national |
| Number | Date | Country | |
|---|---|---|---|
| 60461983 | Apr 2003 | US |
