The subject of the present invention is a novel use of cosmetic active agents for slimming the human body and/or for preventing the formation of fat in the human body.
Some of the fat in the human body is stored in the form of triglycerides, in cells of the fatty tissue of the dermis, called adipocytes. Slimming reflects a reduction in the fat stored in the adipocytes. This process requires a preliminary step which takes place inside these cells and which consists in hydrolyzing the triglycerides to fatty acids and glycerol. This phenomenon is called lipolysis. Most slimming cosmetic formulations currently marketed contain at least one compound possessing a lipolytic activity. The one most frequently used is caffeine, but theophylline is also known to possess such a property.
By contrast, during weight gain, the adipocytes can fill with fat in the context of a so-called adipocyte atrophy process but a phenomenon of recruitment of new adipocytes by differentiation of preadipocytes to mature adipocytes, capable of storing the triglycerides according to the adipocyte hyperplasia process, can also occur. An active agent which makes it possible to prevent weight gain can therefore be selected based on its ability to prevent the recruitment of new adipocytes. Tumor necrosis factor or TNFα is widely described in the scientific literature as an inhibitor of this maturation of the adipocytes but its use is not allowed in cosmetic formulations. No active molecule therefore exists that is known for its use in cosmetics in the state of the art and which constitutes a reference inhibitor of the differentiation of preadipocytes.
During their search for novel active agents with lipolytic activity, and/or which make it possible to inhibit the differentiation of the preadipocytes in order to prevent the formation of new fat, which have good compatibility with the skin, the inventors demonstrated that quinoa extracts, which are normally marketed by the cosmetics industries for their moisturizing and decongestant properties, had both a lipolytic effect that is more effective than that of caffeine and an inhibitory effect on the differentiation of the preadipocytes.
Accordingly, according to a first aspect, the subject of the invention is the use of a quinoa extract, as a slimming active agent, and/or as an active agent which makes it possible to inhibit the formation of new fat in the human body, in a composition containing a cosmetical acceptable medium.
The term quinoa denotes, in the present patent application, the quinoa plant (Chenopodium quinoa) or its genetically modified variants. The quinoa extracts used in the invention which is the subject of the present patent application are generally commercially available in the form of liquid extracts as aqueous extracts, glycolic extracts, in which the solvent is, for example, glycol, propylene glycol or butylene glycol, aqueous-glycolic extracts, alcoholic extracts in which the alcohol is, for example, alcoholic ethanol or aqueous-alcoholic extracts. Such extracts generally contain between 0.01% and 10% by mass of dry extract.
The subject of the invention is also a method for the nontherapeutic treatment of the human body intended for slimming it and/or intended for inhibiting the formation of new fat, characterized in that a composition containing a cosmetically acceptable medium and an effective quantity of quinoa extract is applied thereto.
The expression effective quantity denotes, in the context of the present invention, a percentage by mass of dry extract relative to the final composition of between 0.0001% by mass and 2.0% by mass, preferably between 0.0001% by mass and 0.9% by mass.
The subject of the invention is also the use of a quinoa extract, as defined above, for preparing a medicament with lipolytic activity, intended to induce slimming of the human body.
The subject of the invention is also the use of a quinoa extract, as defined above, for preparing a medicament with inhibitory activity on the differentiation of the preadipocytes, intended to prevent the formation of new fat in the human and/or animal body.
In the compositions defined above, the quinoa extract is generally used in a sufficient quantity for there to be between 0.0001% and 2% by mass of composition as dry extract, more particularly between 0.0005% and 0.9% by mass of composition as dry extract and most particularly between 0.001% and 0.6% by mass of composition as dry extract.
As the following experimental study shows, the quinoa extracts used in the cosmetic or therapeutic treatments defined above are characterized, unexpectedly, by a lipolytic activity greater than the compositions of the state of the art and by a capacity to prevent the formation of fat in the human body. They are therefore in general appropriate for treatments for slimming the human body.
The compositions used in said treatments are generally provided in the form of dilute aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solutions, in the form of simple or multiple emulsions, such as water-in-oil (W/O), oil-in-water (O/W) or water-in-oil-in-water (W/O/W) emulsions in which the oil is of a vegetable or mineral nature, or in powdered form. They may also be dispersed or impregnated onto textile or onto nonwoven materials such as wipes, paper serviettes or clothing.
The compositions used in said treatments are administered to the subject in the conventional forms used in cosmetics and in pharmacy; this includes more particularly topical, oral or parenteral administrations.
In general, the quinoa extracts are combined with many types of adjuvants or active ingredients used in cosmetic formulations, such as fatty substances, organic solvents, thickeners, gelling agents, emollients, antioxidants, opacifiers, stabilizers, foaming agents, perfumes, emulsifiers, which are ionic or nonionic, fillers, sequestrants, chelators, preservatives, chemical screening agents or inorganic screening agents, essential oils, coloring matter, pigments, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, humectants, for example glycerin, preservatives, colorants, perfumes, cosmetic active agents, inorganic or organic sunscreens, inorganic fillers such as iron oxides, titanium oxides and talc, synthetic fillers such as nylons and poly(methyl methacrylate) which are crosslinked or otherwise, silicone elastomers, sericites or plant extracts or alternatively lipid vesicles or any other ingredient customarily used in cosmetics.
As examples of oils which may be combined with the quinoa extracts, there may be mentioned mineral oils such as paraffin oil, liquid paraffin, isoparaffins or white mineral oils, oils of animal origin, such as squalene or squalane, vegetable oils, such as sweet almond oil, copra oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, groundnut oil, sunflower oil, wheat germ oil, maize germ oil, soya bean oil, cottonseed oil, lucerne oil, poppy seed oil, pumpkin seed oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, hazelnut oil, palm oil, shea butter, apricot kernel oil, calophyllum oil, sysymbrium oil, avocado oil, calendula oil; ethoxylated vegetable oils; synthetic oils such as fatty acid esters such as butyl myristate, propyl myristate, cetyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexadecyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, dodecyl oleate, hexyl laurate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, esters derived from lanolic acid, such as isopropyl lanolate, isocetyl lanolate, monoglycerides, diglycerides and triglycerides of fatty acids such as glyceryl triheptanoate, alkyl benzoates, poly-alpha-olefins, polyolefins such as polyisobutene, synthetic isoalkanes such as isohexadecane, isododecane, perfluorinated oils and silicone oils. Among the latter, there may be mentioned more particularly dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, silicones modified with amines, silicones modified with fatty acids, silicones modified with alcohols, silicones modified with alcohols and fatty acids, silicones modified with polyether groups, epoxy-modified silicones, silicones modified with fluorinated groups, cyclic silicones and silicones modified with alkyl groups.
As other fatty substances which may be combined with this active agent, there may be mentioned fatty alcohols or fatty acids.
Among the thickening and/or emulsifying polymers used in the present invention are for example homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid or of acrylic acid derivatives, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylamide, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylamide derivatives, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylamidomethylpropane-sulfonic acid, vinyl monomer, trimethylaminoethyl-acrylate chloride, hydrocolloids of plant or biosynthetic origin, for example xanthan gum, karaya gum, carrageenans, alginates; silicates; cellulose and its derivatives; starch and its hydrophilic derivatives; polyurethanes. Among the polymers of the polyelectrolyte type which may be used in the production of a gelled aqueous phase capable of being used in the preparation of W/O, O/W, W/O/W or O/W/O emulsions, or of an aqueous gel containing the quinoa extracts which are the subject of the present invention, there are for example copolymers of acrylic acid and 2-methyl-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propane-sulfonic acid (AMPS), copolymers of acrylamide and 2-methyl-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid, copolymers of 2-methyl-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid and (2-hydroxyethyl)acrylate, homopolymer of 2-methyl-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid, homopolymer of acrylic acid, copolymers of acryloylethyltrimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide, copolymers of AMPS and vinylpyrrolidone, copolymers of acrylic acid and alkyl acrylates whose carbon chain comprises between ten and thirty carbon atoms, copolymers of AMPS and alkyl acrylates whose carbon chain comprises between ten and thirty carbon atoms. Such polymers are marketed respectively under the names SIMULGEL™ EG, SEPIGEL™ 305, SIMULGEL™ NS, SIMULGEL™ 800, SIMULGEL™ A, SIMULGEL™ EPG, SIMULGEL™ INS, SIMULGEL™ FL, SEPIGEL™ 501, SEPIGEL™ 502, SEPIPLUS™ 250, SEPIPLUS™ 265, SEPIPLUS™ 400, SEPINOV™ EMT 10, CARBOPOL™, ULTREZ™ 10, ACULYN™, PEMULEN™ TR1, PEMULEN™ TR2, LUVIGEL™ EM, SALCARE™ SC91, SALCARE™ SC92, SALCARE™ SC95, SALCARE™ SC96, FLOCARE™ ET100, FLOCARE™ ET58, HISPAGEL™, NOVEMER™ EC1, ARISTOFLEX™ AVC, ARISTOFLEX™ HBM, RAPITHIX™ A60, RAPITHIX™ A100, COSMEDIA SP and STABILEZE™ 06.
Among the waxes which can be used in the present invention, there may be mentioned for example beeswax; carnauba wax, candelilla wax; ouricury wax; Japan wax; cork fiber or sugarcane wax; paraffin waxes; lignite waxes; microcrystalline waxes; lanolin wax; ozokerite; polyethylene wax; hydrogenated oils; silicone waxes; vegetable waxes; fatty alcohols and fatty acids which are solid at room temperature; glycerides which are solid at room temperature.
Among the emulsifiers which can be used in the present invention, there may be mentioned:
As examples of an active ingredient which may be combined with the quinoa extracts there may be mentioned compounds having a lightening or depigmenting action, such as for example arbutin, kojic acid, hydroquinone, ellagic acid, vitamin C, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, SEPICALM™ MSH, extracts of polyphenols, grape extracts, pine extracts, wine extracts, olive extracts, marc extracts, N-acylated proteins, N-acylated peptides, N-acylated amino acids, such as for example N-lauroylproline, N-linoleyllysine, N-linoleylleucine, N-octanoylglycine, N-undecylenoyl-phenylalanine, N-palmitoylproline, N-acylated partial hydrolyzates of proteins, amino acids, peptides, total hydrolyzates of proteins, partial hydrolyzates of proteins, polyols (for example glycerin or butylene glycol), urea, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid or derivatives of this acid, glycyrrhetinic acid, alpha-bisabolol, sugars or sugar derivatives, polysaccharides or their derivatives, hydroxy acids, for example lactic acid, vitamins, vitamin derivatives such as retinol, vitamin E and its derivatives, minerals, enzymes, coenzymes such as Coenzyme Q10, hormones or hormone-like substances, soya bean extracts, for example Raffermine™, wheat extracts, for example Tensine™ or Gliadine™, vegetable extracts such as extracts rich in tannins, extracts rich in isoflavones or extracts rich in terpenes, extracts of fresh water or marine algae, essential waxes, bacterial extracts, minerals, lipids in general, lipids such as ceramides or phospholipids, active agents having a slimming action such as caffeine or its derivatives, active agents having an antimicrobial activity or a purifying action in relation to greasy skin such as LIPACIDE™ PVB, LIPACIDE™ UG, active agents having an energizing or stimulating property such as SEPITONIC™ M3 or Physiogenyl™, panthenol and its derivatives such as SEPICAP™ MP, antiaging active agents such as SEPILIFT™ DPHP, LIPACIDE™ PVB, SEPIVINOL™, moisturizing active agents such as SEPICALM™ S, SEPICALM™ VG and LIPACIDE™ DPHP, PROTEOL™ SAV 50, “antiphotoaging” antiaging active agents, active agents protecting the integrity of the dermo-epidermal junction, active agents increasing the synthesis of the components of the extracellular matrix, active agents having a slimming, toning or draining activity such as caffeine, theophylline, cyclic adenosyl monophosphate (cAMP), green tea, sage, ginko biloba, ivy, horse-chestnut, bamboo, ruscus, butcher's broom, centella asiatica, heather, meadowsweet, fucus, rosemary, willow, active agents creating a sensation of “heat” on the skin, such as activators of skin microcirculation (for example nicotinates) or products creating a sensation of “freshness” on the skin (for example menthol and its derivatives).
As sunscreen which may be incorporated into the composition according to the invention, there may be mentioned all those which appear in the amended cosmetics directive 76/768/EEC, annex VII.
The following experimental study illustrates the invention without, however, limiting it.
1—Aim and Principle of the Method
2—Experimental Protocol
3—Evaluation of the Results
These results show that the quinoa extract has a lipolytic activity of the same order of magnitude as that of caffeine, which makes it a candidate as active ingredient of slimming compositions.
1—Principle of the Method
2—Experimental Protocol
The TNFα tested at 1 ng/ml (that is 10−7% DE) inhibits by 43% the differentiation of the preadipocytes. The glycolic quinoa extract tested inhibits by 26% the activity of G6PDH which makes it appropriate for use as slimming active ingredient in preventing the formation of fat in the human body.
In the following examples, the expressed as percentages by weight.
Centella asiatica/hydrocotyle
Ginkgo biloba extract
Ginseng extract
Ruscus extract
The definitions of the commercial products used in the examples are the following:
SEPILIFT™ DPHP: (INCI name: Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline), marketed by the company SEPPIC;
SEPICIDE™ CI: Imidazoline urea (preservative), marketed by the company SEPPIC;
SEPICIDE™ HB: Mixture of phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben and butylparaben (preservative), marketed by the company SEPPIC;
SEPICIDE™ LD: Phenoxyethanol marketed by the company SEPPIC;
KATHON™ CG: (INCI name: methyl isothiazolinone/Methyl chloroisothiazolinone);
MONTANE™ 60: Sorbitan stearate;
SIMULGEL™ EG: Self-reversible invert latex of copolymer such as those described in international publication WO 99/36445 (INCI name: Sodium acrylate/Sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer and Isohexadecane and Polysorbate 80) marketed by the company SEPPIC;
SIMULGEL™ NS: Self-reversible invert latex of copolymer such as those described in international publication WO 99/36445 (INCI name: hydroxyethylacrylate/Sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer and squalane and Polysorbate 60) marketed by the company SEPPIC;
SEPIGEL™ 305: Self-reversible invert latex (INCI name: Polyacrylamide/C13-14 Isoparaffin/Laureth-7);
SEPIGEL™ 501: Self-reversible invert latex (INCI name: C13-14 Isoparaffin/Mineral Oil/Sodium polyacrylate-/Polyacrylamide/Polysorbate 85) marketed by the company SEPPIC;
LANOL™ 99: Isononyl isononanoate marketed by the company SEPPIC;
LANOL™ 189: Isostearyl isononanoate;
LANOL™ 1688: Cetearyl ethylhexanoate marketed by the company SEPPIC;
SEPITONIC™ M3: Mixture of magnesium aspartate, copper gluconate and zinc gluconate marketed by the company SEPPIC;
MONTALINE™ C40: Cocamidopropyl betainamide MEA chloride;
PROTEOL™OAT: N-lauroyl-containing oat amino acids;
MONTANOV™ b 14: Myristyl alcohol/Myristyl glucoside;
MONTANOV™ L: Emulsifying agent based on a C14-C22 alcohol and a C12-C20 alkyl polyglucoside such as those described in European Patent Application EP 0 995 487;
MONTANOV™ 202 is an emulsifying agent based on arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and arachidyl polyglucoside.
Number | Date | Country | Kind |
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0653801 | Sep 2006 | FR | national |
0654790 | Sep 2006 | FR | national |
Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind | 371c Date |
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PCT/FR07/51859 | 8/31/2007 | WO | 00 | 3/17/2009 |