Field of the Invention
This invention relates generally to the art and jewelry craft industry, and more particularly to a hand tool for making the Viking Knit weave from wire for use in art and jewelry pieces.
Related Art
Viking Knit is an old, traditional wire weave made by a looping technique of the wire around a cylindrical form such as a wooden dowel. The resulting woven wire tube is then gradually reduced in diameter by sequentially pulling the tube through a series of holes of diminishing diameters. Then the drawn Viking Knit is formed into jewelry and other decorative objects.
Methods for fabrication of traditional Viking Knit are centuries old, and have included the use of a solid, cylindrical form such as bone, wood in various sizes, wooden dowels, pencil shapes or more recently, even Allen wrenches. These items are most often attached to a stationary device such as a vise or clamp for ease of manufacture.
According to the prior art practice, before beginning the Viking Knit weave, a start-up bundle of wire loops must be constructed. This is a hand-formed, single-use group of looped wires than can be made by wrapping wire around a thin, solid form, approximately 1″ by ⅛″, to form loops that are then twisted or made stationary at one end. When the loose loops are parted they are shaped into a semi-flat flower petal-like form that is then bent over one end of the dowel, pencil or Allen wrench, and held in place by the wire shape itself, adhesive tape, additional wire or other means. The bent over form is then used as a base to begin the wire weaving process for the Viking Knit technique. Because the loose loops are not rigid, it can be difficult to get the Viking Knit weave started.
The prior art start-up bundle does not spin freely about a vertical axis as the Knit forms at the end of the dowel, pencil or Allen wrench. Later, the start-up bundle is used as a means of pulling the finished Viking Knit through a draw plate, a series of progressively smaller sized drilled holes, often made from a piece of wood. The Knit is drawn through increasingly smaller holes in the plate, allowing the Knit to reduce in diameter and increase in length. The start-up bundle is then cut away and discarded. Therefore, a new start-up bundle is created for each project.
New wire is added making a small hook at one end of the new wire or by inserting the new wire randomly into the existing Knit and holding it in place until the attachment is made following several additional stitches. An awl or other sharp, pointed instrument is used sometimes to lift the wire from the dowel, pencil or Allen wrench, whereby new stitching is created underneath. Also, preferably, the tool of the present invention is provided in a kit with a separate pointed instrument, like a thumb tack or push pin.
An example of one prior art device for making the Viking Knit is the kit currently advertised at CoolToolChick.com (http://www.cooltoolchick.com/viking.html).
This invention in one embodiment comprises a cylindrical rod with a rotatable and removable loop head inserted into the center of the top end of the rod. Preferably, the cylindrical rod is a hexagonal, nylon plastic rod. Alternatively, the rod may be dodecagonal. The loop head is made from, for example, a 6-loop Bali silver bead cap secured to the top of a rivet. Alternatively, the loop head may be molded from plastic with 6 or 12 outwardly, radially extending circumferential loops. The loop head is inserted into a vertical hole drilled into the top end of the rod, wherein the loop head is held by gravity, but able to spin or rotate freely in the hole. The vertical hole has an axis substantially parallel to, or even coincident with, the axis of the rod.
Preferably, the rod also has an anchor hole, drilled diagonally through the rod near its top end, for receiving and securing a wire. Also, preferably, the rod has indicia on its outer surface near its top, for indicating approximately the loop length in the first row of the Viking Knit. Metal wires, varying in size, most generally 32-18 gauge, copper-based, color coated wires and precious metal wires, are woven through the loop head and around the rod to form tubular Viking Knit stitches.
Preferably, the rod also has a conical wire wrap attachment at the bottom of the rod for making wired end caps to cover or enclose the finished Viking Knit weave. The conical wire wrap attachment has a hole drilled transversely through it near its bottom for receiving a wire.
Also, preferably, the tool of the present invention is provided in a kit with a separate draw plate for shaping and sizing the finished Viking Knit. The draw plate may be a sturdy, stiff plastic block with several holes of diminishing diameter drilled through it. The finished Viking Knit is sequentially pulled through several holes of diminishing diameter in order to better align the weave stitches and size the outer diameter of the weave.
In another embodiment, this invention comprises a hollow cone with a free-turning loop head inserted in either or both ends of the cone. Preferably, the hollow cone is hexagonal and/or dodecagonal. Also, preferably, the hollow cone has two rows of about 5/64 inch anchor holes about ½ inch apart, drilled into the cone on two sides thereof.
Referring to the Figures, there are depicted several, but not all, preferred embodiments of the present invention.
Detailed Use of a Preferred Tool:
The preferred methods of using the tool may be understood by reference to the following steps:
With a black permanent marker, draw a line around the hex rod approximately ¼″ from the top of the rod or apply the pin striping tape at the same height. Insert the loop head central shaft into the top hole. See
Cut 30″ of #26 gauge wire. Holding the rod in your left hand, insert one end of the wire into the top of the diagonal anchor hole, extending about 1 inch. Press the “anchor wire” down with your left forefinger to hold in place. See
Row 1: Insert the remaining wire down through one of the head loops above the anchor hole. Gently pull the wire down then cross over the top of the previous wire to form an elongated loop. Use the black line as a guide to establish the length of the loop.
Use your left thumb to help hold the first loop in place. Bring the wire down through the next head loop on the right. Pull the wire down, taking care not to distort the first loop. Keep the wire on top and cross to the right.
Make 6 loops around. Keep the stitches similar in size and as evenly spaced as possible. Use the shape of the rod as a guide placing one loop on each side of the hex. This way, the outer surface of the rod determines the size and shape of the inside of the Viking Knit tube. The flat sides also allow extra space to get under the wire. Use the pin tool to help with spacing and to lift the wire if necessary.
The pin tool is sharp. Keep the plastic cover on the point when not in use. Keep away from animals and small children.
Row 2: Bring the wire, right to left, behind the first loop (on row one) at the bottom where the wires cross. Pull through then swing the wire back to the right to form a small loop. Working to the right, repeat on each loop around.
Row 3: Continue another round of loops. Use the first 3-6 rows (or more if necessary) to develop a consistent pattern.
The first few rows of Viking Knit can be cut away later, so don't worry if they aren't perfect. You will be amazed how much the draw plate helps to reposition and even out the stitches.
Row 4: Pull the beginning anchor wire out of the diagonal hole and cut close to work. Continue working around with the main wire.
As you continue to work, check to make sure you still have 6 loops on the rod.
Row 5 and beyond: continue working loops around.
Periodically slide the knit out the top of the rod every few rows, otherwise it may be hard to remove later. If it becomes stuck twist the knit tube around the rod to loosen.
Adding wire: move the last loop formed so that it is over the diagonal anchor hole at the top of the rod.
Cut another length of #26 wire, 24-30 inches, or whatever length you are most comfortable working with.
Insert one end of the wire through the last wire loop and into the diagonal hole, extending about 1 inch. Press the “anchor wire” down end with your forefinger to hold in place. Bring the free end of the wire under the next loop and continue. See
Determining length: The final length of your knit depends on how many loops you start with, how far down you draw the knit and the size wire you use.
As a general rule, if you start with 6 loops #26 gauge and make a 6-inch length of Viking Knit, you can gain 2-3 inches or more depending on how small you reduce the tube. The smaller the hole draw the longer the knit. The number of feet needed varies but about 15 feet of wire should be enough for a bracelet.
Preparing the knit: Remove the completed length of Viking Knit from the hex rod. Clip the top loops to remove the loop head and remove any loose wires.
Roll the knit between the soft side of the fabric cloth several times. This helps align the stitching and makes drawing easier.
Cut 3 pieces of #26 wire about 12 inches each. Insert the wires in through loops on rows 2 or 3. Fold wires together and twist. This will give you something to hold onto as you draw the knit through the draw plate. They will be removed later.
Draw plate: pull the knit through the largest hole several times. Continue to pull through each hole several times until the desired length and width is achieved.
You can cut the Viking Knit to any length—it will not unravel. Clip any sharp ends (where added wires began and ended) that may protrude.
About wire: many colored wires have a copper base with color coating on top. They are generally quite durable, however you can scratch the surface color off if not careful.
Different gauges of wire change the length and width of the knit: #24 and #28 gauge wires are suitable. #20 gauge is usually too hard to work.
To make a smaller diameter knit experiment by starting with 4 loops and #26 gauge or 5 loops with #28 gauge. This will allow you to pull the knit through the smallest hole on the draw plate. Just skip one or two loops on the loop head and space accordingly around the rod.
Making Coiled Wire End Caps
Use the Viking Knit hand tool described above to make two 3-4 inch lengths of coil.
Cut a 12″ length of #20 gauge wire and insert one end into the small hole at the cone end of the hex rod.
Holding the rod with your right hand and the long wire in your left, turn the rod to wind the wire 3-4 times around the cone. Add the coil and continue to wind.
Cut the wire ½-inch at the bottom and make a small loop. Cut the top wire to release the coil. Finish by adding a loop at the top. The technique for making a Viking Knit with the cone tool is essentially the same as described above.
Advantages:
The Viking Knit Hand Tool eliminates the need for repeatedly creating a new start-up bundle for each project and instead uses a fitted, removable, free-turning, interchangeable loop head inserted into the top center of the rod according to the invention.
The hard plastic nylon rod material is more durable than a dowel or pencil. The vertical shape is preferable over a bent Allen wrench. Constant removal of the Viking Knit wire weave can wear down other, softer materials. The lightweight material is portable and does not necessitate the use of a stationary stand, such as a vise or clamp.
A diagonally drilled anchor hole makes startup, and the addition of new wire, easier by creating tension and a stationary direction for the new wire to be attached. In use, the last stitch of the Viking Knit is aligned over the top diagonal hole on the rod. The new wire is inserted through the existing knit stitch and down through the diagonal hole extending about 1″. A forefinger is placed on the extended end to provide tension. The new wire is in position for the next stitch. After several rows of stitching the 1″ extended end and the original wire are cut away leaving the new wire.
A starting line, indent in the outer surface of the rod, or loop length guide, is provided at the top of the rod, just below the wire loop attachment. The line aids in positioning the first row of Viking Knit.
The hex shape, plastic nylon rod reduces the need for an awl or other pointed instrument to lift the wire from the rod because the flat surfaces allow more clearance room for getting under the initial wire and adding new stitches. Lessening the use of an awl or other pointed instrument to move the wire also reduce the changes of accidentally scratching the surface of the wire, especially in the case of copper-based, color coated wires.
The six sides of the rod also compliment the 6-loop metal head insert. This collaboration is helpful in initially with forming and positioning the first rows of Viking Knit stitches. The rod is constructed of Quadrant Nylon Hexagon Bar, ¼″ across flats (USP item #47521), measuring approximately 6 inches in length (vertical).
A vertical 1/16-inch hole, drilled in the top of the rod approximately ½″ in depth is referred to as the central axial hole.
A ⅛-inch adhesive tape strip may be applied around the circumference of the rod approximately ¼′inch from the top of the rod, referred to as the “loop length guide”. Alternatively, a black line can be drawn with a permanent marker.
In one embodiment, the “wire loop attachment” is comprised of one ⅛″×⅜″ aluminum blind rivet and one 6-loop Bali silver bead cap, #C2010 0.45 grams, 4×10 mm made in Indonesia (beads-park.com). The bead cap is permanently adhered to the top of the rivet. The rivet and bead cap are then inserted into the central axial hole at the top of the rod.
A second 1/16-inch hole, drilled at a slight diagonal, starting approximately 1-inch from the top of the rod, allows the addition of start up or new wire. It is referred to as the “anchor hole”.
A cone wire cap tool is permanently attached at the bottom of the rod. The cast metal cone is approximately ⅞-inch in length, part #BM60606-PE-003. A 1/16-inch hole is drilled through the metal cone near the smallest point. The hole is used to insert a base wire. Coiled wire, beads or other materials are added to the base wire. The base wire is then wrapped about the coil shape to form an end cap. Alternately, the hex rod itself may be shaped or sharpened at the bottom end to form a cone shape, eliminating the need for a metal cone. The cone wire cap tool is not essential to the creation of the Viking Knit weave; it offers a complimentary alternative finishing technique. However, the cone wire cap is also convenient for another important function associated with the Viking Knit Hand Tool. If the woven tube of wire becomes excessively tight on the rod or cone, the tube may be taken off, the rod or cone turned over and passed through the inside of the tube like a reamer. This way, due to the increased diameter of, for example, tip 18 (
One advantage of the Viking Knit Cone Tool is that, instead of limiting the traditional Viking Knit woven wire construction to a single, cylindrical shape, the cone form allows the woven knit to be formed into additional sizes and shapes, like open or closed cones, that add new dimension and opportunities for its use. The cone also eliminates the need to repeatedly create a new start-up bundle for each project and instead uses two or more fitted, removable, free-turning, interchangeable metal or plastic loop heads that can be inserted at either end of the cone. Heads can have a varying number of loops. The shape of the woven tube around the cone allows design options not available on the traditional straight rods.
The hollow cone has six flat sides at the smaller end (¼″) converting to 12 or 24 flat sides at the larger end (1¼″). The overall length is 5″. The six sides of the cone compliment a 6-loop plastic or metal head insert. A 12- or 24-loop metal or plastic head is used at the larger end. The flat surfaces are useful initially in and positioning the first rows of Viking Knit stitches: one or two stitches on each flat surface are useful for measuring stitch length, girth and shape.
The hollow cone is constructed of a plastic carbon and/or nylon reinforced material. Horizontal anchor hole sites of about 5/64 inch diameterare aligned at about ½ intervals down the length of the cone on one or both sides. The small end of the tool is a ¼″ hexagon shape, graduating to 1¼″ with 12 or 24 sides at the large end. Six-loop and a 24-loop head attachments are inserts at either ends of the cone.
Alternatives:
The hex tool may be modified in a number of respects, all without departing from the original intent and concept.
The diameter, length and hex shape could be changed to a larger or smaller diameter and the number of flat-sided surfaces could also be changed, for example, a ⅜″ rod with four sides or a ½″ rod with eight sides.
The rod material could be changed to wood, metal or other plastic materials. It can be solid or hollow. The rod may be round in diameter and not have flat sides at all. It could be attached to a stationary surface if necessary by means of a stand, vise or clamp.
The wire loop attachment can be shaped of a one-piece solid metal or plastic material with an increased or decreased number of loops forming the head. The size, depth and diameter of the rivet or pin inserted into the rod may vary in size.
Also, interchangeable wire loop attachments, of varying loop length and varying loop holes, could be used alternately with the same rod size or different rod sizes, depending on the style of Viking Knit mesh desired. Thus one could mix-and-match a five loop wire loop attachment with a five-sided ½″ rod or a five-sided ¼″ rod.
The number of wire loops on the wire loop attachment head need not correspond to the same number of flat sides on the rod. The flat sides of the rod help make the Viking Knit wrapping technique easier but can also aide in the placement of the Viking Knit loops.
The metal cone wire wrap accessory could be manufactured as part of the actual rod by sharpening the end of the rod into a graduated cone shape with an insert hole drilled at the end.
An alternative method for making the permanent or semi-permanent starting line at the top of the rod could be fashioned by the use of painted, a routed crevice or by burning or engraving a line onto the material.
The diagonal anchor hole could be located at varying heights and vary in diameter. Additional anchor holes could be added as starting points or to accommodate more than one wire.
The diameter of the rod, the number of starting loops, the size of wire used and the draw plate holes all contribute to determining various textures, diameters and sizes of a completed Viking Knit weave project.
The cone material could be changed to wood, metal or other plastic materials. It can be solid or hollow. The cone may be totally round in diameter and not have flat sides at all. It could be attached to a stationary surface if necessary by means of a stand, vise or clamp.
The plastic or metal loop attachments can be shaped of a one-piece solid metal or plastic material with an increased or decreased number of loops forming the head.
Interchangeable wire or plastic loop attachments, of varying loop lengths and varying loop holes, could be used alternately with the same cone size or different cone sizes, depending on the style of Viking Knit mesh desired.
The number of wire loops on the wire loop attachment head need not correspond to the same number of flat sides on the cone. The flat sides of the cone help make the Viking Knit wrapping technique easier but can also be used as a teaching aide to indicate the correct placement of the Viking Knit stitches.
Horizontal or vertical anchor holes could be located at varying heights and vary in diameter. Additional anchor holes could be added as starting points or to accommodate more than one wire.
The diameters of the cone, the number of starting loops at either end, the size of wire used and the draw plate holes all contribute to determining various textures, diameters and sizes of a completed Viking Knit weave project.
The end of the cone can be altered to include an end cap tool can be with the addition of an about 5/64 inch hole drilled through the cone about ¼″ from the end. The hole is used to insert wire and wrap about the cone shape formed an end cap that may be used to complete a Viking Knit project.
Variations of this invention will occur to those skilled in the art. All such variations are intended to be within the scope and spirit of the Viking Knit Hand Tool, and not limited to those alternatives listed. A feature disclosed herein may be used together or in combination with any other feature on any embodiment of the tool. It is also contemplated that any feature may be specifically excluded from any embodiment of this tool.
Although this invention has been described above with reference to particular means, materials and embodiments, it is to be understood that the invention is not limited to these disclosed particulars, but extends instead to all equivalents within the scope of the following claims.
This application is a continuation of Ser. No. 13/375,737, filed Dec. 1, 2011, and issuing on May 10, 2016 as U.S. Pat. No. 9,334,589, which is incorporated herein by this reference, and which is a 371 National Phase Entry Application of PCT/US2010/036979, with international filing date of Jun. 1, 2010, entitled “VIKING KNIT HAND TOOL”, which claims priority of U.S. Provisional Patent Application Ser. No. 61/217,622, filed Jun. 1, 2009 and entitled “Viking Knit All-In-One Tool” and which also claims priority of U.S. Provisional Application Ser. No. 61/336,370, filed Jan. 21, 2010 and entitled “Lazee Daizee Viking Knit Matrix Cone Tool”. The disclosures of these two provisional patent applications are incorporated herein by reference.
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20170022639 A1 | Jan 2017 | US |
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Parent | 13375737 | US | |
Child | 15149880 | US |