This invention relates to polymers useful for personal care products, and, more particularly, to vinyl lactam/vinyl carbazole copolymers having advantageous properties for skin and hair care applications.
Copolymers of vinyllactam, e.g. vinyl pyrrolidone or vinyl caprolactam, and vinyl carbazole were prepared by solution polymerization in ethanol. The structure of the vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl carbazole copolymer is shown below:
vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl carbazole (VP/VCZ) copolymer
The experimental procedures are given in Examples 1 and 2 below. The copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone with a vinyl carbazole content of 10 and 25% w/w are water soluble and alcohol soluble, respectively. The copolymers are characterized by UV absorption with the maximum at 360 nm (Example 3) and fluorescence emission with maximums at 390 nm and 420 nm.
A variety of copolymers, terpolymers and tetrapolymers based on vinyl pyrrolidone or vinyl caprolactam and carbazole with one or more other monomers, e.g. dimethylaminopropyl(meth)acrylamide (DMAPMA), C1-C8-quaternized DMAPMA, dimethylaminoethyl(meth)acrylate (DMAEMA), C1-C18-quaternized DMAEMA, and acrylamide, also are suitable in the invention. They are preferably characterized by visible light fluorescence which enhances luster (or add glitter, sparkle, glisten, or luminance) to hair treated with products containing them, which is a very attractive feature of hair conditioners or hair fixatives such as gels, mousses, or hairsprays.
The main applications for these copolymers are for personal care products, e.g. hair and skin treatments. Hair care applications include hair styling products, leave-in hair conditioners and hair shiners. Skin care applications include moisturizers, sunscreens, treatment lotions, etc.
The copolymers were tested as a treatment of hair for the improvement of luster (Example 4). It was shown that VP/VCZ copolymers are characterized by superior reflective properties as compared to a PVP homopolymer (Example 4).
The UV spectra of VP/VCZ copolymers indicates they act as UVB and UVA photo-protectors for hair and skin.
Based on UV and fluorescence spectra, the VP/VCZ copolymers are useful in skin care products for masking wrinkles.
Into a one-liter, four-necked, jacketed glass reactor, fitted with an anchor-type agitator, a nitrogen inlet tube, a thermometer and a reflux condenser, charge 144 g of vinylpyrrolidone, 16 g of 9-vinylcarbazole and 160 g of anhydrous ethanol. The reactants were bubbled with nitrogen for 15 minutes, followed by heating them to the reaction temperature of 78° C. The first initiator, 0.80 g of 20.0% 2,2′-azobis(methylbutyronitrile) (VAZO® 67 from Du Pont) in ethanol, was then added at time t=0. After reaching a mild exotherm peak of 87° C. in 15 minutes, the batch was controlled to 78° C. and maintained throughout the experiment. The second VAZO® 67 initiator of same amount was added at time t=1 hour from start and the batch was held for 2 hours at 78° C. At this point the polymer solution at 50% solids became very viscous and was diluted with 80.0 g of anhydrous ethanol to 40% solids. Three booster initiators (1.60 g of 20.0% VAZO® 67 in ethanol each) were added at time t=4, 8 and 12 hours, respectively. After holding the batch for 4 hours, it was cooled to ambient temperature and discharged into a glass bottle. The polymer solution is very slightly hazy and is soluble in water.
Into a one-liter, four-necked, jacketed glass reactor, fitted with an anchor-type agitator, a nitrogen inlet tube, a thermometer and a reflux condenser, charge 120 g of vinylpyrrolidone, 40 g of 9-vinylcarbazole and 160 g of anhydrous ethanol. The reactants were bubbled with nitrogen for 15 minutes, followed by heating them to the reaction temperature of 78° C. The first initiator, 0.80 g of 20.0% 2,2′-azobis(methylbutyronitrile) (VAZO® 67 from Du Pont) in ethanol, was then added at time t=0. After reaching a mild exotherm peak of 88° C. in 15 minutes, the batch was controlled to 78° C. and maintained throughout the experiment. The second VAZO® 67 initiator of same amount was added at time t=1 hour from start and the batch was held for 2 hours at 78° C. At this point the polymer solution at 50% solids became very viscous and was diluted with 80.0 g of anhydrous ethanol to 40% solids. Three booster initiators (1.60 g of 20.0% VAZO® 67 in ethanol each) were added at time t=4, 8 and 12 hours, respectively. The batch was held at 78° C. for 4 hours after the addition of the third booster. The batch was then cooled to ambient temperature and discharged into a glass bottle. The polymer solution is hazy in ethanol and is insoluble in water.
UV-VIS spectrum of vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl carbazole copolymer in aqueous solution at a concentration of 1 g/l is shown in
The copolymer is characterized by the maximum absorbance at 330 nm and 345 nm in the UVA range and 290 nm in the UVB range of solar emission.
Using image analysis luster apparatus, we examined the optical properties of hair treated with two different compositions of vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl carbazole copolymer. Luster analysis was conducted for (1) PVP K-30, (2) vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl carbazole copolymer [90/10 wt %] of Example 1, and (3) vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl carbazole copolymer [75/25 wt %] of Example 2. [R. McMullen and J. Jachowicz, Optical Properties of Hair: Effect of Treatments on Luster as Quantified by Image Analysis, J. Cosmet. Sci, 54, 335-351, (2003).]
Various parameters have been used to determine luster and are summarized in
The luster parameters for vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl carbazole copolymer compare favorably to previously determined parameters for VCL/VP/DMAEMA (Advantage LCA) and Phenyl Trimethicone. In relation to untreated hair the treated/untreated differences are as follows. Peak Intensity: 177±3/168±4 for Advantage LCA and 154±1/168±4 for Phenyl Trimethicone vs. 184±2/178±4 for co(VP-vinyl carbazole) [90/10 wt %]; Reich-Robbins Luster: 0.68±0.007/0.54±0.07 for Advantage LCA and 0.62±0.1/0.54±0.07 for Phenyl Trimethicone vs. 0.79±0.03/0.52±0.02 for co(VP-vinyl carbazole) [90/10 wt %]; Stamm Luster: 0.76±0.02/0.72±0.03 for Advantage LCA and 0.80±0.03/0.72±0.03 for Phenyl Trimethicone vs. 80±0.01/0.71±0.01 for co(VP-vinyl carbazole) [90/10 wt %].
In summary, the obtained results indicate that the reflective properties of vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl carbazole copolymer [90/10 wt %] are superior to phenyl trimethicone, PVP, and equal or better than Advantage LCA.
While the copolymer of the invention is particularly useful for skin and hair care, it will be understood that it can be used in other personal care applications, such as an absorbent material in appropriate applications such as diapers, etc.
Thus, the copolymer of the invention is useful in combination with conventional cosmetic ingredients, such as conditioning agents, protecting agents, fixing agents, oxidizing agents, reducing agents, dyes and the like.
Any known conditioning agent is useful in the hair compositions of this invention. Conditioning agents function to improve the cosmetic properties of the hair, particularly softness, thickening, untangling, feel, and static electricity and may be in liquid, semi-solid, or solid form such as oils, waxes, or gums. Similarly, any known skin altering agent is useful in the compositions of this invention. Preferred conditioning agents include cationic polymers, cationic surfactants and cationic silicones.
Conditioning agents may be chosen from synthesis oils, mineral oils, vegetable oils, fluorinated or perfluorinated oils, natural or synthetic waxes, silicones, cationic polymers, proteins and hydrolyzed proteins, ceramide type compounds, cationic surfactants, fatty amines, fatty acids and their derivatives, as well as mixtures of these different compounds.
The synthesis oils include polyolefins, e.g., poly-α-olefins such as polybutenes, polyisobutenes and polydecenes. The polyolefins can be hydrogenated.
The mineral oils suitable for use in the compositions of the invention include hexadecane and oil of paraffin.
Suitable animal and vegetable oils include sunflower, corn, soy, avocado, jojoba, squash, raisin seed, sesame seed, walnut oils, fish oils, glycerol tricaprocaprylate, Purcellin oil or liquid jojoba.
Suitable natural or synthetic oils include eucalyptus, lavender, vetiver, litsea cubeba, lemon, sandalwood, rosemary, chamomile, savory, nutmeg, cinnamon, hyssop, caraway, orange, geranium, cade, and bergamot.
Suitable natural and synthetic waxes include carnauba wax, candelila wax, alfa wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite wax, vegetable waxes such as olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, absolute flower waxes such as black currant flower wax, animal waxes such as bees wax, modified bees wax (cerabellina), marine waxes and polyolefin waxes such as polyethylene wax. The cationic polymers that may be used as a conditioning agent in combination with the VP/VCZ copolymers according to the invention are those known to improve the cosmetic properties of hair treated by detergent compositions. The expression “cationic polymer” as used herein, indicates any polymer containing cationic groups and/or ionizable groups in cationic groups. The cationic polymers used generally have a number average molecular weight of which falls between about 500 and 5,000,000 and preferably between 1000 and 3,000,000.
The preferred cationic polymers are chosen from among those containing units including primary, secondary, tertiary, and/or quaternary amine groups that may either form part of the main polymer chain or a side chain.
Useful cationic polymers include known polyamine, polyaminoamide, and quaternary polyammonium types of polymers, such as:
(1) homopolymers and copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides. The copolymers can contain one or more units derived from acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinyl pyrrolidone or vinyl caprolactam, and vinyl esters. Specific examples include: copolymers of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with an alkyl halide; copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyl trimethyl ammonium chloride; the copolymer of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyl trimethyl ammonium methosulfate; copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate, optionally quaternized, such as the products sold under the name GAFQUAT by International Specialty Products; the dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinyl caprolactam/vinyl pyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX® VC 713 by International Specialty Products; the vinyl pyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymer, marketed under the name STYLEZE® CC 10 by International Specialty Products; and the vinyl pyrrolidone/quaternized dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymers such as the product sold under the name GAFQUAT® HS 100 by International Specialty Products.
(2) derivatives of cellulose ethers containing quaternary ammonium groups, such as hydroxy ethyl cellulose quaternary ammonium that has reacted with an epoxide substituted by a trimethyl ammonium group.
(3) derivatives of cationic cellulose such as cellulose copolymers or derivatives of cellulose grafted with a hydrosoluble quaternary ammonium monomer, as described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,131,576, such as the hydroxy alkyl cellulose, and the hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl-cellulose grafted with a salt of methacryloylethyl trimethyl ammonium, methacrylamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium, or dimethyl diallyl ammonium.
(4) cationic polysaccharides such as described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,589,578 and 4,031,307, guar gums containing cationic trialkyl ammonium groups and guar gums modified by a salt, e.g., chloride of 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethyl ammonium.
(5) polymers composed of piperazinyl units and alkylene or hydroxy alkylene divalent radicals with straight or branched chains, possibly interrupted by atoms of oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen, or by aromatic or heterocyclic cycles, as well as the products of the oxidation and/or quaternization of such polymers.
(6) water-soluble polyamino amides prepared by polycondensation of an acid compound with a polyamine. These polyamino amides may be reticulated.
(7) derivatives of polyamino amides resulting from the condensation of polyalkoxylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkoxylation by bi-functional agents.
(8) polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine containing two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dioxycarboxylic acid chosen from among diglycolic acid and saturated dicarboxylic aliphatic acids having 3 to 8 atoms of carbon. Such polymers are described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,227,615 and 2,961,347.
(9) the cyclopolymers of alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium such as the homopolymer of dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride and copolymers of dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride and acrylamide.
(10) quaternary diammonium polymers such as hexadimethrine chloride. Polymers of this type are described particularly in U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,273,780, 2,375,853, 2,388,614, 2,454,547, 3,206,462, 2,261,002, 2,271,378, 3,874,870, 4,001,432, 3,929,990, 3,966,904, 4,005,193, 4,025,617, 4,025,627, 4,025,653, 4,026,945, and 4,027,020.
(11) quaternary polyammonium polymers, including, for example, Mirapol® A 15, Mirapol® AD1, Mirapol® AZ1, and Mirapol® 175 products sold by Miranol.
(12) the quaternary polymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl imidazole such as the products sold under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550, and FC 370 by BASF.
(13) quaternary polyamines.
(14) reticulated polymers known in the art.
Other cationic polymers that may be used within the context of the invention are cationic proteins or hydrolyzed cationic proteins, polyalkyleneimines such as polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinyl pyridine or vinyl pyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and epichlorhydrins, quaternary polyurethanes, and derivatives of chitin.
Preferred cationic polymers are derivatives of quaternary cellulose ethers, the homopolymers and copolymers of dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride, quaternary polymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl imidazole, and mixtures thereof.
The conditioning agent can be any silicone known by those skilled in the art to be useful as a conditioning agent. The silicones suitable for use according to the invention include polyorganosiloxanes that are insoluble in the composition. The silicones may be present in the form of oils, waxes, resins, or gums. They may be volatile or non-volatile. The silicones can be selected from polyalkyl siloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkyl aryl siloxanes, silicone gums and resins, and polyorgano siloxanes modified by organofunctional groups, and mixtures thereof.
Suitable polyalkyl siloxanes include polydimethyl siloxanes with terminal trimethyl silyl groups or terminal dimethyl silanol groups (dimethiconol) and polyalkyl (C1-C20) siloxanes.
Suitable polyalkyl aryl siloxanes include polydimethyl methyl phenyl siloxanes and polydimethyl diphenyl siloxanes, linear or branched.
The silicone gums suitable for use herein include polydiorganosiloxanes preferably having a number-average molecular weight between 200,000 and 1,000,000, used alone or mixed with a solvent. Examples include polymethyl siloxane, polydimethyl siloxane/methyl vinyl siloxane gums, polydimethyl siloxane/diphenyl siloxane, polydimethyl siloxane/phenyl methyl siloxane and polydimethyl siloxane/diphenyl siloxane/methyl vinyl siloxane.
Suitable silicone resins include silicones with a dimethyl/trimethyl siloxane structure and resins of the trimethyl siloxysilicate type.
The organo-modified silicones suitable for use in the invention include silicones such as those previously defined and containing one or more organofunctional groups attached by means of a hydrocarbon radical and grafted siliconated polymers. Particularly preferred are amino functional silicones.
The silicones may be used in the form of emulsions, nano-emulsions, or micro-emulsions.
The conditioning agent can be a protein or hydrolyzed cationic or non-cationic protein. Examples of these compounds include hydrolyzed collagens having triethyl ammonium groups, hydrolyzed collagens having trimethyl ammonium and trimethyl stearyl ammonium chloride groups, hydrolyzed animal proteins having trimethyl benzyl ammonium groups (benzyltrimonium hydrolyzed animal protein), hydrolyzed proteins having groups of quaternary ammonium on the polypeptide chain, including at least one C1-C18 alkyl.
Hydrolyzed proteins include Croquat L, in which the quaternary ammonium groups include a C12 alkyl group, Croquat M, in which the quaternary ammonium groups include C10-C18 alkyl groups, Croquat S in which the quaternary ammonium groups include a C18 alkyl group and Crotein Q in which the quaternary ammonium groups include at least one C1-C18 alkyl group. These products are sold by Croda.
The conditioning agent can comprise quaternized vegetable proteins such as wheat, corn, or soy proteins such as cocodimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein, laurdimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein and steardimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein.
According to the invention, the conditioning agent can be a ceramide type of compound such as a ceramide, a glycoceramide, a pseudoceramide, or a neoceramide. These compounds can be natural or synthetic. Compounds of the ceramide type are, for example, described in Patents pending DE4424530, DE4424533, DE4402929, DE4420736, WO95/23807, WO94/07844, EP-A-0646572, WO95/16665, FR-2 673 179, EP-A-0227994, WO 94/07844, WO 94/24097, and WO 94/10131. Ceramide type compounds useful herein include 2-N-linoleoyl amino-octadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-oleoyl amino-octadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-palmitoyl amino-octadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-stearoyl amino-octadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-behenoyl amino-octadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-[2-hydroxy-palmitoyl]-amino-octadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-stearoyl amino-octadecane-1,3,4-triol, N-stearoyl phytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoyl amino-hexadecane-1,3-diol, bis-(N-hydroxy ethyl N-cetyl) malonamide, N(2-hydroxy ethyl)-N-(3-cetoxyl-2-hydroxy propyl) amide of cetylic acid, N-docosanoyl N-methyl-D-glucamine and mixtures of such compounds.
The conditioning agent can be a cationic surfactant such as a salt of a primary, secondary, or tertiary fatty amine, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, a quaternary ammonium salt, a derivative of imadazoline, or an amine oxide. Suitable examples include mono-, di-, or tri-alkyl quaternary ammonium compounds with a counterion such as a chloride, methosulfate, tosylate, etc. including, but not limited to, cetrimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, and the like. The presence of a quaternary ammonium compound in conjunction with the polymer described above reduces static and enhances combing of hair in the dry state. The polymer also enhances the deposition of the quaternary ammonium compound onto the hair substrate thus enhancing the conditioning effect of hair.
The conditioning agent can be any fatty amine known to be useful as a conditioning agent; e.g. dodecyl, cetyl or stearyl amines, such as stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.
The conditioning agent can be a fatty acid or derivatives thereof known to be useful as conditioning agents. Suitable fatty acids include myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, and isostearic acid. The derivatives of fatty acids include carboxylic ester acids including mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-carboxylic acids.
The conditioning agent can be a fluorinated or perfluorinated oil. Fluorinated oils include perfluoropolyethers described in EP-A-486135 and the fluorohydrocarbon compounds described in WO 93/11103. The fluoridated oils may also be fluorocarbons such as fluoramines, e.g., perfluorotributylamine, fluoridated hydrocarbons, such as perfluorodecahydronaphthalene, fluoroesters, and fluoroethers.
Of course, mixtures of two or more conditioning agents can be used.
The conditioning agent or agents can be present in an amount of 0.001% to 20%, preferably from 0.01% to 10%, and even more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight based on the total weight of the final composition.
The composition of the invention can contain one or more protecting agents to prevent or limit the degrading effects of natural physical and/or chemical assaults on the keratinous materials.
The protecting agent can be chosen from hydrosoluble, liposoluble and water-insoluble UV filters, antiradical agents, antioxidants, vitamins and pro-vitamins. The above-described cationic polymer enhances the deposition of these materials onto the hair or skin substrate enhancing protection of hair to UV damage.
Organic UV filters (systems that filter out UV rays) can be chosen from among hydrosoluble or liposoluble filters, whether siliconated or nonsiliconated, and mineral oxide particles, the surface of which may be treated.
Hydrosoluble organic UV filters may be chosen from para-amino benzoic acid and its salts, anthranilic acid and its salts, salicylic acid and its salts, hydroxy cinnamic acid and its salts, sulfonic derivatives of benzothiazoles, benzimidizoles, benzoxazoles and their salts, sulfonic derivatives of benzophenone and their salts, sulfonic derivatives of benzylidene camphor and their salts, derivatives of benzylidene camphor substituted by a quaternary amine and their salts, derivatives of phthalydene-camphosulfonic acids and their salts, sulfonic derivatives of benzotriazole, and mixtures thereof.
Hydrophilic polymers which have light-protective qualities against UV rays can be used. These include polymers containing benzylidene camphor and/or benzotriazole groups.
Suitable liposoluble organic UV filters include derivatives of para-aminobenzoic acid, such as the esters or amides of para-aminobenzoic acid; derivatives of salicylic acid; derivatives of benzophenone; derivatives of dibenzoyl methane; derivatives of diphenyl acrylates; derivatives of benzofurans; UV filter polymers containing one or more silico-organic residues; esters of cinnamic acid; derivatives of camphor; derivatives of trianilino-s-triazine; the ethylic ester urocanic acid; benzotriazoles; derivatives of hydroxy phenyl triazine; bis-resorcinol-dialkyl amino triazine; and mixtures thereof.
The liposoluble (or lipophilic) organic UV filter according to the invention can be chosen from octyl salicylate; 4-tert-butyl-4′-methoxy dibenzoyl methane; octocrylene; 4-methoxy cinnamate; 2-ethylhexyl [2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate]; and 2-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-6-[2-methyl-3-[1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-[(trimethyl silyl)oxy] disiloxanyl]propynyl] phenol.
Other UV filters particularly preferred for use herein are derivatives of benzophenones such as 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy benzophenone-5-sulfonic acid, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy benzophenone, derivatives of benzalmalonates such as poly dimethyl/methyl (3(4-(2,2-bis-ethoxy carbonyl vinyl)-phenoxy)-propenyl) siloxane, derivatives of benzylidene camphor such as b-b′camphosulfonic [1-4 divinylbenzene] acid and derivatives of benzimidazole such as 2-phenyl-benzimidazol-5-sulfonic acid.
Water-insoluble UV filters include various mineral oxides. The mineral oxides may be selected from among titanium oxides, zinc oxides, and cerium oxides. The mineral oxides can be used in the form of ultrafine nanoparticles.
Preferred UV filters include Escalol HP-610 (dimethylpabamido propyl laurdimonium tosylate and propylene glycol stearate) and Crodasorb HP (polyquaternium 59).
The antioxidants or antiradical agents can be selected from phenols such as BHA (tert-butyl-4-hydroxy anisole), BHT (2,6-di-tert-butyl-p-cresol), TBHQ (tert-butyl hydroquinone), polyphenols such as proanthocyanodic oligomers, flavonoids, hindered amines such as tetra amino piperidine, erythorbic acid, polyamines such as spermine, cysteine, glutathione, superoxide dismutase, and lactoferrin.
The vitamins can be selected from ascorbic acid (vitamin C), vitamin E, vitamin E acetate, vitamin E phosphate, B vitamins such as B3 and B5, vitamin PP, vitamin A, and derivatives thereof. The provitamins can be selected from panthenol and retinol.
The protecting agent can be present in an amount 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, and more preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight of the total weight of the final composition.
The composition of the invention can contain a fixing agent.
The fixing agent can be an anionic polymer chosen from polymers containing carboxylic units derived from unsaturated carboxylic mono- or polyacids of the formula:
in which n is a whole number from 0 to 10, A1 denotes a methylene group, optionally bonded to the carbon atom of the unsaturated group or to a neighboring methylene group when n is greater than 1 by means of a heteroatom like oxygen or sulfur, R7 denotes a hydrogen atom, a phenyl or benzyl group, R8 denotes a hydrogen atom, a lower alkyl or carboxyl group, R9 denotes a hydrogen atom, a lower alkyl group, a —CH2—COOH, phenyl or benzyl group and polymers containing units derived from sulfonic acid like vinylsulfonic, styrenesulfonic, acrylamidoalkylsulfonic units.
The fixing agent can be an amphoteric polymer chosen from the polymer containing recurring units derived from:
The fixing agent can be a nonionic polymer chosen from polyalkyloxazolines; vinyl acetate homopolymers; vinyl acetate and acrylic ester copolymers; vinyl acetate and ethylene copolymers; vinyl acetate and maleic ester copolymers; polyethylene and maleic anhydride copolymers; homopolymers of alkyl acrylates; homopolymers of alkyl methacrylates; copolymers of acrylic esters; copolymers of alkyl acrylates and alkyl methacrylates; copolymers of acrylonitrile and a nonionic monomer chosen from among butadiene and alkyl (meth)acrylates; copolymers of alkyl acrylate and urethane; and polyamides.
The fixing polymer can be a functionalized or unfunctionalized, silicone or non-silicone polyurethane.
The fixing polymer can be a polymer of the grafted silicone type containing a polysiloxane portion and a portion consisting of a nonsilicone organic chain, with one of the two portions forming the main chain of the polymer, and with the other being grafted onto said main chain.
The fixing agent can be present in the composition in a relative weight concentration between 0.1 and 10%, preferably 0.5 and 5%.
The composition of the invention can contain an oxidizing agent. The oxidizing agent can be chosen from the group of hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, ferricyanides, persalts, and redox enzymes, optionally with their respective donor or cofactor. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide. The oxidizing agent can be a solution of oxygenated water whose titer varies from 1 to 40 volumes.
The composition of the invention can contain at least one reducing agent in amounts from 0.01 to 30 wt %, preferably 0.05 to 20 wt % of the total weight of the composition. The reducing agents useful in the practice of this invention can be selected from thiols, like cysteine, thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, their salts and esters, cysteamine, and its salts or sulfites. In the case of compositions intended for bleaching, ascorbic acid, its salts and its esters, erythorbic acid, its salts and its esters, and sulfinates, like sodium hydroxymethanesulfinate can be used.
The composition of the invention can contain a dye selected from the group consisting of neutral acid or cationic nitrobenzene dyes, neutral acid or cationic azo dyes, quinone dyes, neutral, acid or cationic anthraquinone dyes, azine dyes, triarylmethane dyes, indoamine dyes and natural dyes. The dye or dyes can be present in a concentration from 0.001 to 20% and preferably 0.005 to 10 wt % based on the total weight of the composition.
The composition of the invention can contain at least one amphoteric polymer or a cationic polymer different from the cationic poly(vinyllactam) defined above. Suitable cationic polymers include a poly(quaternary ammonium) consisting of recurrent units corresponding to the following formulae (W) and (U):
Suitable amphoteric polymers include a copolymer containing at least one acrylic acid and a dimethyldiallyammonium salt as a monomer. The cationic or amphoteric polymer or polymers can be present in an amount of 0.01 to 10%, preferably 0.05 to 5%, and more preferably 0.1 to 3% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
In addition, the compositions according to the invention advantageously include at least one surfactant, which can be present in an amount of 0.1% and 60% preferably 1% and 40%, and more preferably 5% and 30% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. The surfactant may be chosen from among anionic, amphoteric, or non-ionic surfactants, or mixtures of them known to be useful in personal care compositions.
The composition of the invention can contain one or more additional cosmetically acceptable additives chosen from conditioning agents, protecting agents, such as, for example, hydrosoluble, liposoluble and water-insoluble UV filters, antiradical agents, antioxidants, vitamins and pro-vitamins, fixing agents, oxidizing agents, reducing agents, dyes, cleansing agents, anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric surfactants, thickeners, perfumes, pearlizing agents, stabilizers, pH adjusters, filters, preservatives, hydroxy acids, cationic and nonionic polyether associative polyurethanes, polymers other than the cationic polymer described herein, vegetable oils, mineral oils, synthetic oils, polyols such as glycols and glycerol, silicones, aliphatic alcohols, colorants, bleaching agents, highlighting agents and sequestrants. These additives are present in the composition according to the invention in proportions that may range from 0 to 20% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition. The precise amount of each additive may be easily determined by an expert in the field according to its nature and its function.
Additional thickeners or viscosity increasing agents may be included in the composition of the invention, such as:
Acetamide MEA Acrylamide/Ethalkonium Chloride Acrylate Copolymer
Acrylamide/Ethyltrimonium Chloride Acrylate/Ethalkonium Chloride Acrylate
Copolymer
Acrylamides Copolymer
Acrylamide/Sodium Acrylate Copolymer
Acrylamide/Sod ium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer
Acrylates/Acetoacetoxyethyl Methacrylate Copolymer
Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Acrylates/Ceteth-20 Itaconate Copolymer
Acrylates/Ceteth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer
Acrylates/La ureth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer
Acrylates/Palmeth-25 Acrylate Copolymer
Acrylates/Palmeth-25 Itaconate Copolymer
Acrylates/Steareth-50 Acrylate Copolymer
Acrylates/Steareth-20 Itaconate Copolymer
Acrylates/Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer
Acrylates/Stearyl Methacrylate Copolymer
AcrylatesNinyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer
Acrylic Acid/Acrylonitrogens Copolymer
Adipic Acid/Methyl DEA Crosspolymer
Agar
Agarose
Alcaligenes Polysaccharides
Algin
Alginic Acid
Almondamide DEA
Almondamidopropyl Betaine
Aluminum/Magnesium Hydroxide Stearate
Ammonium Acrylates/Acrylonitrogens Copolymer
Ammonium Acrylates Copolymer
Ammonium AcryloyidimethyltaurateNinyl Formamide Copolymer
Ammonium AcryloyidimethyltaurateNP Copolymer
Ammonium Alginate
Ammonium Chloride
Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Ammonium Sulfate
Amylopectin
Apricotamide DEA
Apricotamidopropyl Betaine
Arachidyl Alcohol
Arachidyl Glycol
Arachis Hypogaea (Peanut) Flour
Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate
Astragalus Gummifer Gum
Attapulgite
Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Flour
Avocadamide DEA
Avocadamidopropyl Betaine
Azelamide MEA
Babassuamide DEA
Babassuamide MEA
Babassuamidopropyl Betaine
Behenamide DEA
Behenamide MEA
Behenamidopropyl Betaine
Behenyl Betaine
Bentonite
Butoxy Chitosan
Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum
Calcium Alginate
Calcium Carboxymethyl Cellulose
Calcium Carrageenan
Calcium Chloride
Calcium Potassium Carbomer
Calcium Starch Octenylsuccinate
C20-40 Alkyl Stearate
Canolamidopropyl Betaine
Capramide DEA
Capryl/Capramidopropyl Betaine
Carbomer
Carboxybutyl Chitosan
Carboxymethyl Cellulose Acetate Butyrate
Carboxymethyl Chitin
Carboxymethyl Chitosan
Carboxymethyl Dextran
Carboxymethyl Hydroxyethylcellulose
Carboxymethyl Hydroxypropyl Guar
Carnitine
Cellulose Acetate Propionate Carboxylate
Cellulose Gum
Ceratonia Siliqua Gum
Cetearyl Alcohol
Cetyl Alcohol
Cetyl Babassuate
Cetyl Betaine
Cetyl Glycol
Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose
Chimyl Alcohol
Cholesterol/HDI/Pullulan Copolymer
Cholesteryl Hexyl Dicarbamate Pullulan
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Extract
Cocamide DEA
Cocamide MEA
Cocamide MIPA
Cocamidoethyl Betaine
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine
Coco-Betaine
Coco-Hydroxysultaine
Coconut Alcohol
Coco/Oleamidopropyl Betaine
Coco-Sultaine
Cocoyl Sarcosinamide DEA
Cornamide/Cocamide DEA
Cornamide DEA
Croscarmellose
Crosslinked Bacillus/Glucose/Sodium Glutamate Ferment
Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba (Guar) Gum
Decyl Alcohol
Decyl Betaine
Dehydroxanthan Gum
Dextrin
Dibenzylidene Sorbitol
Diethanolaminooleamide DEA
Diglycol/CHDM/lsophthalates/SIP Copolymer
Dihydroabietyl Behenate
Dihydrogenated Tallow Benzylmonium Hectorite
Dihydroxyaluminum Aminoacetate
Dimethicone/PEG-10 Crosspolymer
Dimethicone/PEG-15 Crosspolymer
Dimethicone Propyl PG-Betaine
Dimethylacrylamide/Acrylic Acid/Polystyrene Ethyl Methacrylate Copolymer
Dimethylacrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Crosspolymer
Disteareth-100 IPDI
DMAPA Acrylates/Acrylic Acid/Acrylonitrogens Copolymer
Erucamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine
Ethylene/Sodium Acrylate Copolymer
Gelatin
Gellan Gum
Glyceryl Alginate
Glycine Soja (Soybean) Flour
Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
Hectorite
Hyaluronic Acid
Hydrated Silica
Hydrogenated Potato Starch
Hydrogenated Tallow
Hydrogenated Tallowamide DEA
Hydrogenated Tallow Betaine
Hydroxybutyl Methylcellulose
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Hydroxyethyl Chitosan
Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose
Hydroxyethyl Stearamide-MIPA
Hydroxylauryl/Hydroxymyristyl Betaine
Hydroxypropylcellulose
Hydroxypropyl Chitosan
Hydroxypropyl Ethylenediamine Carbomer
Hydroxypropyl Guar
Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose
Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose Stearoxy Ether
Hydroxypropyl Starch
Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate
Hydroxypropyl Xanthan Gum
Hydroxystearamide MEA
Isobutylene/Sodium Maleate Copolymer
Isostearamide DEA
Isostearamide MEA
Isostearamide MIPA
Isostearamidopropyl Betaine
Lactamide MEA
Lanolinamide DEA
Lauramide DEA
Lauramide MEA
Lauramide MIPA
Lauramide/Myristamide DEA
Lauramidopropyl Betaine
Lauramidopropyl Hyd roxysultaine
Laurimino Bispropanediol
Lauryl Alcohol
Lauryl Betaine
Lauryl Hydroxysultaine
Lauryl/Myristyl Glycol Hydroxypropyl Ether
Lauryl Sultaine
Lecithinamide DEA
Linoleamide DEA
Linoleamide MEA
Linoleamide MIPA
Lithium Magnesium Silicate
Lithium Magnesium Sodium Silicate
Macrocystis Pyrifera (Kelp)
Magnesium Alginate
Magnesium/Aluminum/Hydroxide/Carbonate
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate
Magnesium Silicate
Magnesium Trisilicate
Methoxy PEG-22/Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer
Methylcellulose
Methyl Ethylcellulose
Methyl Hydroxyethylcellulose
Microcrystalline Cellulose
Milkamidopropyl Betaine
Minkamide DEA
Minkamidopropyl Betaine
MIPA-Myristate
Montmorillonite
Moroccan Lava Clay
Myristamide DEA
Myristamide MEA
Myristamide MIPA
Myristamidopropyl Betaine
Myristamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine
Myristyl Alcohol
Myristyl Betaine
Nafto Gum
Nonoxynyl Hyd roxyethylcellulose
Oatamide MEA
Oatamidopropyl Betaine
Octacosanyl Glycol Isostearate
Octadecene/MA Copolymer
Oleamide DEA
Oleamide MEA
Oleamide MIPA
Oleamidopropyl Betaine
Oleamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine
Oleyl Betaine
Olivamide DEA
Olivamidopropyl Betaine
Oliveamide MEA
Palmamide DEA
Palmamide MEA
Palmamide MIPA
Palmamidopropyl Betaine
Palmitamide DEA
Palmitamide MEA
Palmitamidopropyl Betaine
Palm Kernel Alcohol
Palm Kernelamide DEA
Palm Kernelamide MEA
Palm Kernelamide MIPA
Palm Kernelamidopropyl Betaine
Peanutamide MEA
Peanutamide MIPA
Pectin
PEG-800
PEG-Crosspolymer
PEG-150/Decyl Alcohol/SMDI Copolymer
PEG-175 Diisostearate
PEG-190 Distearate
PEG-15 Glyceryl Tristearate
PEG-140 Glyceryl Tristearate
PEG-240/HDI Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether
PEG-100/IPDI Copolymer
PEG-180/Laureth-50/TMMG Copolymer
PEG-10/Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
PEG-15/Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
PEG-2M
PEG-5M
PEG-7M
PEG-9M
PEG-14M
PEG-20M
PEG-23M
PEG-25M
PEG-45M
PEG-65M
PEG-90M
PEG-115M
PEG-160M
PEG-180M
PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Trioleate
PEG-180/Octoxynol-40/TMMG Copolymer
PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate
PEG-4 Rapeseedamide
PEG-150/Stearyl Alcohol/SMDI Copolymer
Phaseolus Angularis Seed Powder
Polianthes Tuberosa Extract
Polyacrylate-3
Polyacrylic Acid
Polycyclopentadiene
Polyether-1
Polyethylene/Isopropyl Maleate/MA Copolyol
Polyglyceryl-3 Disiloxane Dimethicone
Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone
Polymethacrylic Acid
Polyquaternium-52
Polyvinyl Alcohol
Potassium Alginate
Potassium Aluminum Polyacrylate
Potassium Carbomer
Potassium Carrageenan
Potassium Chloride
Potassium Palmate
Potassium Polyacrylate
Potassium Sulfate
Potato Starch Modified
PPG-2 Cocamide
PPG-1 Hydroxyethyl Caprylamide
PPG-2 Hydroxyethyl Cocamide
PPG-2 Hydroxyethyl Coco/isostearamide
PPG-3 Hydroxyethyl Soyamide
PPG-14 Laureth-60 Hexyl Dicarbamate
PPG-14 Laureth-60 Isophoryl Dicarbamate
PPG-14 Palmeth-60 Hexyl Dicarbamate
Propylene Glycol Alginate
PVP/Decene Copolymer
PVP Montmorillonite
Pyrus Cydonia Seed
Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fiber
Rhizobian Gum
Ricebranamide DEA
Ricinoleamide DEA
Ricinoleamide MEA
Ricinoleamide MIPA
Ricinoleamidopropyl Betaine
Ricinoleic Acid/Adipic Acid/AEEA Copolymer
Rosa Multiflora Flower Wax
Sclerotium Gum
Sesamide DEA
Sesamidopropyl Betaine
Sodium Acrylate/Acryloyidimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Sodium Acrylates/Acrolein Copolymer
Sodium Acrylates/Acrylonitrogens Copolymer
Sodium Acrylates Copolymer
Sodium Acrylates Crosspolymer
Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acrylamidomethylpropane Sulfonate Copolymer
Sodium AcrylatesNinyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer
Sodium Acrylate/Vinyl Alcohol Copolymer
Sodium Carbomer
Sodium Carboxymethyl Chitin
Sodium Carboxymethyl Dextran
Sodium Carboxymethyl Beta-Glucan
Sodium Carboxymethyl Starch
Sodium Carrageenan
Sodium Cellulose Sulfate
Sodium Chloride
Sodium Cyclodextrin Sulfate
Sodium Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate
Sodium Isooctylene/MA Copolymer
Sodium Magnesium Fluorosilicate
Sodium Oleate
Sodium Palmitate
Sodium Palm Kernelate
Sodium Polyacrylate
Sodium Polyacrylate Starch
Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Sodium Polygamma-Glutamate
Sodium Polymethacrylate
Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate
Sodium Silicoaluminate
Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinate
Sodium Stearate
Sodium Stearoxy PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Sulfonate
Sodium Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer
Sodium Sulfate
Sodium Tallowate
Sodium Tauride Acrylates/Acrylic Acid/Acrylonitrogens Copolymer
Sodium Tocopheryl Phosphate
Solanum Tuberosum (Potato) Starch
Soyamide DEA
Soyamidopropyl Betaine
Starch/Acrylates/Acrylamide Copolymer
Starch Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
Stearamide AMP
Stearamide DEA
Stearamide DEA-Distearate
Stearamide DIBA-Stearate
Stearamide MEA
Stearamide MEA-Stearate
Stearamide MIPA
Stearamidopropyl Betaine
Steareth-60 Cetyl Ether
Steareth-100/PEG-136/HDI Copolymer
Stearyl Alcohol
Stearyl Betaine
Sterculia Urens Gum
Synthetic Fluorphlogopite
Tallamide DEA
Tallow Alcohol
Tallowamide DEA
Tallowamide MEA
Tallowamidopropyl Betaine
Tallowamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine
Tallowamine Oxide
Tallow Betaine
Tallow Dihydroxyethyl Betaine
Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum
Tapioca Starch
TEA-Alginate
TEA-Carbomer
TEA-Hydrochloride
Trideceth-2 Carboxamide MEA
Tridecyl Alcohol
Triethylene Glycol Dibenzoate
Trimethyl Pentanol Hydroxyethyl Ether
Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Powder
Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Kernel Flour
Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Starch
Tromethamine Acrylates/Acrylonitrogens Copolymer
Tromethamine Magnesium Aluminum Silicate
Undecyl Alcohol
Undecylenamide DEA
Undecylenamide MEA
Undecylenamidopropyl Betaine
Welan Gum
Wheat Germamide DEA
Wheat Germamidopropyl Betaine
Xanthan Gum
Yeast Beta-Glucan
Yeast Polysaccharides and Zea Mays (Corn) Starch.
Preferred thickeners or viscosity increasing agents include Carbomer, Aculyn and Stabileze, e.g. crosslinked acrylic acid, crosslinked poly(methylvinyl ether/maleic anhydride) copolymer, acrylamides, carboxymethyl cellulose and the like.
The compositions according to the invention may be used to wash and treat keratinous material such as hair, skin, eyelashes, eyebrows, fingernails, lips, and hairy skin.
The compositions according to the invention can be detergent compositions such as shampoos, bath gels, and bubble baths. In this mode, the compositions will comprise a generally aqueous washing base. The surfactant or surfactants that form the washing base may be chosen alone or in blends, from known anionic, amphoteric, or non-ionic surfactants. The quantity and quality of the washing base must be sufficient to impart a satisfactory foaming and/or detergent value to the final composition. The washing base can be from 4% to 50% by weight, preferably from 6% to 35% by weight, and even more preferentially from 8% to 25% by weight of the total weight of the final composition.
The pH of the composition applied to the keratinous material is generally between 2 and 12. It is preferably between 3 and 8, and may be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or alkalinizing agents that are well-known in the state of the art in compositions applied to keratinous materials. Thus, the composition of the invention can contain at least one alkalizing or acidifying agent in amounts from 0.01 to 30 wt % of the total weight of the composition.
The alkalizing agent can be chosen from ammonia, alkali carbonates, alkanolamines, like mono-, di- and triethanolamines, as well as their derivatives, hydroxyalkylamines and ethoxylated and/or propoxylated ethylenediamines, sodium or potassium hydroxides and compounds of the following formula (XIX):
in which R is a propylene residue optionally substituted with an hydroxyl group or a C1-C4 alkyl radical; R38, R39, R40 and R41, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical or C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical.
The acidifying agent can be chosen from mineral or organic acids, like hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, carboxylic acids like tartaric acid, citric acid, or lactic acid, or sulfonic acids and the like.
The physiological and cosmetically acceptable medium may consist exclusively of water, a cosmetically acceptable solvent, or a blend of water and a cosmetically acceptable solvent, such as a lower alcohol composed of C1 to C4, such as ethanol, isopropanol, t-butanol, n-butanol, alkylene glycols such as propylene glycol, and glycol ethers. However, the compositions of the invention can be anhydrous.
Generally the present cosmetic compositions are prepared by simple mixing procedures well known in the art.
The invention also has as its object a process for treating keratinous material including the skin or hair, characterized in that it consists of applying to skin or keratinous materials a cosmetic composition as described above, and then eventually rinsing it with water. Accordingly, the process according to the invention makes it possible to maintain the hairstyle, treatment, care, washing, or make-up removal of the skin, the hair, and any other keratinous material.
The compositions according to the invention may also take the form of after-shampoo compositions, to be rinsed off or not, for permanents, straightening, waving, dyeing, or bleaching, or the form of rinse compositions to be applied before or after dyeing, bleaching, permanents, straightening, relaxing, waving or even between the two stages of a permanent or straightening process.
The compositions of the invention may also take the form of skin-washing compositions, and particularly in the form of solutions or gels for the bath or shower, or of make-up removal products.
The compositions of the invention may also be in the form of aqueous or hydro-alcoholic solutions for skin and/or hair care.
The compositions described herein are useful in products for personal care, including, but mot limited to, gels, lotions, glazes, glues, mousses, sprays, fixatives, shampoos, conditioners, 2n1 shampoos, temporary hair dyes, semi-permanent hair dyes, permanent hair dyes, straighteners, permanent waves, relaxers, creams, putties, waxes, pomades, moisturizers, mascaras, lip balms and foam enhancers.
The present application claims benefit of U.S. Provisional Application No. 60/620,196 filed Oct. 19, 2004.
Number | Date | Country | |
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60620196 | Oct 2004 | US |