Patent Application
20130345316
The present invention is directed to cosmetic compositions and methods of using and producing cosmetic compositions. More specifically, the present invention is directed to a water-releasing cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion having an aqueous phase including a hydrating agent and an oil phase including dimethicone and an emulsifying crosslinked siloxane elastomer. The water-releasing cosmetic composition converts from an emulsion to a plurality of droplets upon rubbing.
For various reasons associated in particular with greater comfort of use (softness, emollience and the like), current cosmetic compositions are usually in the form of an emulsion of the oil-in-water (O/W) type consisting of an aqueous-dispersing-continuous phase and an oily-dispersed-discontinuous phase, or of an emulsion of the water-in-oil (W/O) type consisting of an oily-dispersing-continuous phase and an aqueous-dispersed-discontinuous phase. O/W emulsions are usually preferred in the cosmetics field, because O/W emulsions comprise an aqueous phase as external phase, which gives the emulsions, when applied to the skin, a fresher, less greasy, less tacky, and lighter feel than W/O emulsions.
Many compositions, especially cosmetic compositions, have been developed for easy and comfortable application onto a targeted substrate. Unfortunately, many of these compositions are in fact difficult to apply and do not possess a smooth feel upon application. Moreover, compositions often have a tendency to feel tacky, yielding poor application and spreadability characteristics.
Although glycerin is a fairly low cost humectant or hydrating agent, problems arise when incorporating high levels of glycerin in cosmetic compositions. Incorporating high levels of glycerin, generally greater than 5%, results in a cosmetic compositions having a tacky and sticky feel upon application to skin. The tacky and sticky feel is undesirable to consumers. Several approaches, such as using light emollients, powders, or combinations thereof may reduce tackiness; however, the resulting cosmetic compositions may not provide sufficient consumer appeal and may still have residual tackiness that can be felt on the skin after application.
Therefore, it is desirable to provide a composition possessing a high level of glycerin without having a tacky feel and that is pleasing to consumers.
A cosmetic composition and methods of using and producing cosmetic compositions that do not suffer from one or more of the above drawbacks would be desirable in the art.
In an exemplary embodiment, a water-releasing cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion is provided. The composition includes and aqueous phase and an oil phase. The aqueous phase includes a hydrating agent at a concentration, by weight, of about 1% to about 50%, based upon weight of the composition. The oil phase includes dimethicone, at a concentration, by weight of about 1% to about 40%, based upon weight of the composition and an emulsifying crosslinked siloxane elastomer at a concentration, by weight, of about 3% to about 20%, based upon weight of the composition. The water-releasing cosmetic composition has a phase ratio of the aqueous phase to the oil phase of about 1.5 to about 12.0. The water-releasing cosmetic composition converts from an emulsion to a plurality of droplets upon rubbing.
In another exemplary embodiment, a water-releasing cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion is provided. The composition includes an aqueous phase and an oil phase. The aqueous phase including a hydrating agent at a concentration, by weight, of about 1% to about 50%, based upon weight of the composition. The aqueous phase is at a concentration, by weight, of about 80% to about 92%, based upon weight of the composition. The oil phase includes dimethicone, at a concentration, by weight of about 1% to about 40%, based upon weight of the composition and an emulsifying crosslinked siloxane elastomer at a concentration, by weight, of about 3% to about 20%, based upon weight of the composition. The water-releasing cosmetic composition converts from an emulsion to a plurality of droplets upon rubbing.
In another exemplary embodiment, a method for preparing the cosmetic composition is provided. The method includes mixing the aqueous phase at ambient or elevated temperature. The method includes mixing the oil phase. The method includes slowly adding the mixed aqueous phase to the mixed oil phase while mixing, forming a water-in-oil emulsion.
The present disclosure is also directed to a method for cosmetic treatment of keratinous tissues by applying the above-disclosed water-releasing composition onto a surface of the keratinous tissue.
Other features and advantages of the present invention will be apparent from the following more detailed description of the preferred embodiment which illustrates, by way of example, the principles of the invention.
Wherever possible, the same reference numbers will be used throughout the drawings to represent the same parts.
“Keratinous tissue,” as used herein, includes but is not limited to skin, hair, and nails.
“Homogenous” means substantially uniform throughout, i.e., a single phase mixture.
In the present application the term “ambient temperature” means a temperature of about 25° C.
In the present application the term “water-releasing,” as used herein, describes the phenomenon wherein, upon application of a cosmetic composition, the shearing forces generated by the rubbing in or application of the cosmetic composition cause the water-in-oil type emulsion to rupture, thereby causing the internal aqueous phase to emerge in the form of droplets.
The cosmetic compositions and methods of the present invention can comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the invention described herein, as well as any additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations described herein or otherwise useful in personal care compositions intended for topical application to keratinous tissue.
It has been surprisingly discovered by the inventor that high levels of hydrating agents, such as glycerin can be formed into a water-in-oil type emulsion in the form of a cream that has a transformative water-releasing effect upon rubbing into keratinous tissue. The transformative water-releasing effect is that the cream transforms into droplets containing the aqueous phase upon rubbing the cream into keratinous tissue. It has also been surprisingly discovered by the inventor that a composition containing greater than about 80% by weight of an aqueous phase forms a stable emulsion in the form of a cream. It has also been surprisingly discovered by the inventor that the cream provides a unique and refreshing sensory experience without the tackiness associated with incorporating high levels of hydrating agents like glycerin into cosmetic compositions.
One advantage of an embodiment of the present disclosure includes providing a cosmetic composition for incorporating relatively high levels of aqueous based moisturizing ingredients (e.g. glycerin). Another advantage of an embodiment of the present disclosure includes providing cosmetic compositions that provide improved skin-feel properties. Yet another advantage of an embodiment of the present disclosure is providing a cosmetic composition having an aqueous phase at a concentration, by weight, of greater than about 80% based upon weight of the composition. Yet another advantage of an embodiment of the present disclosure is providing a keratinous tissue treatment composition that has stability against phase separation even under freeze/thaw cycling. Another advantage of an embodiment of the present disclosure includes a keratinous tissue treatment composition that achieves a smooth non-draggy rub-in upon initial application to the keratinous tissue.
The water-in-oil emulsion system of the present water-releasing cosmetic composition has a white, glossy cream appearance, or it may change to a transparent gel-like or matte appearance by a method of adjusting the refractive index, as known by those in the art. When the cosmetic composition is applied to the skin in a conventional way, the cosmetic composition quickly releases bead-like droplets containing the aqueous phase, bringing about a novel and soothing feeling to consumers
Aqueous Phase
The aqueous phase present in the cosmetic composition according to the disclosure includes glycerin, water, and other aqueous phase ingredients. The aqueous phase of the water-releasing cosmetic composition is at a concentration, by weight, of about 20% to about 92%, or alternatively about 50% to about 90%, or alternatively about 85% to about 90% based upon weight of the cosmetic composition.
Hydrating Agent
The aqueous phase present in the cosmetic composition according to the disclosure includes a hydrating agent at a concentration, by weight, of about 1% to about 50%, or alternatively about 5% to about 40%, or alternatively about 10% to about 30% based upon weight of the composition.
Suitable examples of hydrating agents include polyols, for example, glycerol, glycols such as butylene glycol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, hydroxypropyl sorbitol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, ethoxylated glycerin, propoxylated glycerin, and sugars such as glucose, and mixtures thereof. According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the polyol chosen is glycerol, dipropylene glycol or mixtures thereof, or a mixture of glycerol and/or of dipropylene glycol and of one or more other polyols especially chosen from those indicated above: butylene glycol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, hexylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, sugars, methylpropanediol and 1,3-propanediol and mixtures thereof. A particularly suitable polyol for use with the present invention is glycerin.
In one embodiment, glycerin is incorporated in the cosmetic composition at levels greater than 5% or alternatively, greater than 10%, by weight, of the cosmetic composition.
Water
The aqueous phase present in the cosmetic composition according to the disclosure includes water at a concentration, by weight, of about 20% to about 85%, or alternatively about 35% to about 80% or alternatively about 40% to about 70%, based upon weight of the composition. The water used may be sterile demineralized water and/or a floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, camomile water or lime water, and/or a natural thermal or mineral water such as, for example: water from Vittel, water from the Vichy basin, water from Uriage, water from La Roche Posay, water from La Bourboule, water from Enghien-les-Bains, water from Saint Gervais-les-Bains, water from Neris-les-Bains, water from Allevar-les-Bains, water from Digne, water from Maizieres, water from Neyrac-les-Bains, water from Lons-le-Saunier, water from Eaux Bonnes, water from Rochefort, water from Saint Christau, water from Les Fumades, water from Tercis-les-Bains or water from Avene. The water phase may also comprise reconstituted thermal water, that is to say a water comprising trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc., reconstituting the characteristics of a thermal water.
Preservative System
The aqueous phase present in the cosmetic composition according to the disclosure includes a preservative system at a concentration, by weight, of about 0.1% to about 3%, or alternatively about 0.5% to about 2.5% or alternatively about 1% to about 2.0%, based upon weight of the composition. In a preferred embodiment, the preservative system includes an organic acid preservative system. In another preferred embodiment, the preservative system includes sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate, phenoxyethanol, p-anisic acid, parabens, chlorphenesin, and combinations thereof. In another preferred embodiment, preservative system is selected from the group consisting of disodium EDTA, phenoxyethanol, methyl paraben, propyl paraben, imidazolidinyl urea, sodium dehydroacetate, para-hydroxybenzoic acid, hydantoin derivatives, propionate salts, quaternary ammonium compounds, benzyl alcohol and mixtures thereof. A suitable example of a preservative system is sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate.
Oil Phase
The oil phase present in the cosmetic composition according to the disclosure includes dimethicone and an emulsifying crosslinked siloxane elastomer. The oil phase of the water-releasing cosmetic composition is at a concentration, by weight, of about 5% to about 40%, or alternatively about 8% to about 30%, or alternatively about 10% to about 20%, based upon weight of the cosmetic composition.
Dimethicone
The oil phase present in the cosmetic composition according to the disclosure includes dimethicone at a concentration, by weight, of about 1% to about 40%, or alternatively about 5% to about 35%, or alternatively about 7% to about 20%, based upon weight of the composition.
Emulsifying Crosslinked Siloxane Elastomer
The oil phase present in the cosmetic composition according to the disclosure includes an emulsifying crosslinked siloxane elastomer at a concentration, by weight, of about 3% to about 20%, or alternatively about 4% to about 15%, or alternatively about 5% to about 10%, based upon weight of the composition.
Examples of suitable emulsifying crosslinked siloxane elastomers, include, but are not limited to, substituted or unsubstituted dimethicone/copolyol crosspolymer, dimethicone and dimethicone/PEG-10/15 crosspolymers, substituted or unsubstituted dimethicone/polyglyceryl crosspolymer, dimethicone and dimethicone/polyglycerin-3 crosspolymer. Such suitable emulsifying crosslinked siloxane elastomers are sold or made, for example, under the names of “KSG-210” a polyether-modified cross polymer with an INCI name of dimethicone (and) dimethicone/PEG-10/15 crosspolymer, and “KSG-710” a polyglycerin-modified crosspolymer with an INCI name of dimethicone (and) dimethicone/polyglycerin-3 crosspolymer, both available from ShinEtsu Silicones of America, Inc. (Akron, Ohio).
The oil phase present in the cosmetic composition according to the disclosure may further include a mixture of dimethicone and dimethiconol, at a concentration, by weight, of about 1% to about 40% or alternatively of about 5% to about 35%, or alternatively about 7% to about 25%, based upon weight of the composition. In one embodiment, the mixture of dimethicone and dimethiconol reduce residual tackiness that may be present from the high levels of glycerin incorporated into the present cosmetic composition, thereby improving texture of the present cosmetic composition.
The water-releasing cosmetic composition of the present disclosure may also contain cosmetically acceptable additives or adjuvants as well as cosmetic or dermatologic active agents. Representative additives and adjuvants include, for example, water-soluble or water-miscible solvents or co-solvents, dispersion enhancing agents, moisturizers, colorants, fillers, antioxidants (e.g., EDTA, BHT, tocopherol), essential oils, fragrances, dyes, neutralizing or pH-adjusting agents (e.g., citric acid, triethylamine (TEA) and sodium hydroxide), conditioning or softening agents (e.g., panthenol and allantoin) and extracts such as botanical extracts. Additives and adjuvants may be present in the compositions in amounts generally ranging from about 0.01% to about 10% by weight. Examples of cosmetic active agents or dermatological active agents include sunscreen agents (e.g., inorganic sunscreen agent, such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide and organic sunscreen agents, such as octocrylene, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, and avobenzone), free-radical scavengers, keratolytic agents, vitamins (e.g., Vitamin E and derivatives thereof), anti-elastase and anti-collagenase agents, peptides, fatty acid derivatives, steroids, trace elements, extracts of algae and of planktons, enzymes and coenzymes, flavonoids and ceramides, hydroxy acids and mixtures thereof, and enhancing agents. These ingredients may be soluble or dispersible in any water phase(s) or oil phase(s) that is/are present in the cosmetic composition (i.e., aqueous and/or fatty (oil) phase).
Co-emulsifier
The oil phase present in the cosmetic composition according to the disclosure may optionally include a co-emulsifier at a concentration, by weight, of about 0.01% to about 1%, or alternatively about 0.05% to about 0.9%, or alternatively about 0.1% to about 0.8%, based upon weight of the composition. If the co-emulsifier concentration exceeds 1% by weight of the cosmetic composition, then the cosmetic composition may still form an emulsion but the desirable transformative effect of cream changing to droplets upon rubbing is lost.
Suitable examples of co-emulsifiers include polyether substituted linear or branched polysiloxane copolymers. One preferred co-emulsifier is PEG-10 dimethicone available under the tradename of ES-5612 from Dow Corning Corporation (Midland, Mich.), or KF-6017 from Shin-Etsu (Akron, Ohio). Another preferred co-emulsifier is dimethicone (and) PEG/PPG-18/18 dimethicone available under the tradename of ES-5226 DM from Dow Corning Corporation (Midland, Mich.). Other suitable co-emulsifiers include, PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone available under the tradename KF-6028 and PEG-9, lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone available under the tradename KF-6038, both available from Shin-Etsu (Akron, Ohio). Another suitable example of a co-emulsifier is polyoxyalkylene copolymers also known as silicone polyethers. Polyoxyalkylene copolymers are described in detail in U.S. Pat. No. 4,268,499, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. A particularly preferred polyoxyalkylene copolymer is known by its CTFA designation as dimethicones copolyol. A particularly preferred form of dimethicone copolyol is supplied by Dow Corning as DC5225C.
Optional Powders
The cosmetic composition of the present disclosure may optionally include cosmetic powders. The optional cosmetic powders provide formulas that are smoother and softer on the skin. Representative cosmetic powders include, but are not limited to talc, mica, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, magnesium silicate, aluminum magnesium silicate, silica, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, black iron oxide, polyethylene powder, methacrylate powder, polystyrene powder, silk powder, crystalline cellulose, starch, titanated mica, iron oxide titanated mica, bismuth oxychloride, and the like. Additional powders include, but are not limited to, inorganic powders such as gums, chalk, Fuller's earth, kaolin, sericite, muscovite, phlogopite, synthetic mica, lepidolite, biotite, lithia mica, vermiculite, aluminum silicate, starch, smectite clays, alkyl and/or trialkyl aryl ammonium smectites, chemically modified magnesium aluminum silicate, organically modified montmorillonite clay, hydrated aluminum silicate, fumed aluminum starch octenyl succinate barium silicate, calcium silicate, magnesium silicate, strontium silicate, metal tungstate, magnesium, silica alumina, zeolite, barium sulfate, calcined calcium sulfate (calcined gypsum), calcium phosphate, fluorine apatite, hydroxyapatite, ceramic powder, metallic soap (zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, zinc myristate, calcium palmitate, and aluminum stearate), colloidal silicone dioxide, and boron nitride; organic powder such as polyamide resin powder (nylon powder), cyclodextrin, methyl polymethacrylate powder, copolymer powder of styrene and acrylic acid, benzoguanamine resin powder, poly(ethylene tetrafluoride) powder, and carboxyvinyl polymer, cellulose powder such as hydroxyethyl cellulose and sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, ethylene glycol monostearate; inorganic white pigments such as magnesium oxide. A representative cosmetic powder includes, for example, polymethylsilsesquioxane. Cosmetic powders may be present in the compositions in amounts generally ranging from about 0.1% to about 5% by weight of the composition.
Phase Ratio
The phase ratio is calculated by dividing the total weight of the aqueous phase by the total weight of the oil phase. The cosmetic composition of the present disclosure as a water-in-oil emulsion has a ratio of the aqueous phase to oil phase of about 1.5 to about 12.0, or alternatively about 4.0 to about 9.0, or alternatively about 5.0 to 9.0. The phase ratio excludes any additional optional powders that may be added to the composition.
Hydration Index
The cosmetic composition of the present disclosure has a hydration index of greater than about 1.34.
The hydration index is calculated using the following equation
where IP1h is the hydration index of the skin; T1h is the Corneometer reading one hour after applying the formula or reference, T0 is the initial Corneometer reading right after applying the formula or reference, (T1h−T0)formula is the difference between the Corneometer reading one hour after applying the formula of the present disclosure to the skin and the Corneometer reading right after applying the formula of the present disclosure to the skin; (T1h−T0)bare skin is the difference between the Corneometer reading at the one hour mark and initial reading of bare skin; (T1h−To)reference is the difference between the Corneometer reading one hour after applying the reference cream (containing 7% glycerin) to the skin and Corneometer reading right after applying the reference cream (containing 7% glycerin) to the skin. The Corneometer readings were taken at ambient temperatures. The Corneometer used to measure the hydration index was Corneometer® CM825, available from Courage+Khazaka, Köln, Germany.
Process
The method for preparing the water-releasing cosmetic composition of the present disclosure, according to one embodiment, includes creating a stable water-in-oil emulsion with or without heating. In one embodiment, the process uses a cold-processing method which keeps the temperature below 30° C. and more preferably at ambient temperature during emulsification. In an alternative embodiment, the process includes heating the water and oil phases to an elevated temperature which includes temperatures above 30° C. to form the emulsion. The process includes mixing a first phase (aqueous) including a hydrating agent (e.g. glycerin), water, the preservative system and other ingredients. In one embodiment, the pH of the aqueous phase is adjusted using suitable and well-known pH adjusters to create optimal conditions to prevent any growth of undesired microbiological organisms. The process includes mixing a second phase (oil) including dimethicone and an emulsifying crosslinked siloxane elastomer. The process includes very slowly adding the first phase (aqueous) to the second phase (oil) while mixing and as viscosity of the mixture increases, mixing speed is increased to about 1200 rpm. After the first phase (aqueous) is mixed into the second phase (oil) a white, glossy, trembling cream emulsion is formed, where the cream releases droplets upon rubbing the cream into the skin.
Viscosity
Viscosity is measured using a Brookfield Viscometer, using spindle T-D and speed set at 10 rpm. Viscosity of the present disclosure is about 40,000 cp to about 75,000 cp.
Water-Releasing Effect
With respect to the present invention, a good water-releasing effect of the water-in-oil emulsion means that the water-releasing effect has an evaluation result of more than or equal to a score of 3 in the evaluation system described below. The test method and evaluation score of the test system are described below.
About 0.2 g of a water-in-oil emulsion sample of cosmetic composition is taken and placed on the back of a hand, then it is applied thereon by circling gently with the middle finger and ring finger of the other hand, and then the phenomenon of the water-releasing effect is observed when the circling application reaches 20 cycles, and evaluated by a 5-level scoring system. A score of 5 represents that more than 10 bead-like water drops having an average diameter of more than or equal to 3 mm appear, or more than 20 bead-like water drops having an average diameter of more than or equal to 1 mm appear. A score of 4 represents that 2-10 bead-like water drops having an average diameter of more than or equal to 3 mm appear, or 10-20 bead-like water drops having an average diameter of more than or equal to 1 mm appear and the bead-like water drops having an average of more than or equal to 3 mm are no more than 10. A score of 3 represents that 2-9 bead-like water drops having an average diameter of more than or equal to 1 mm appear and there is at most 1 bead-like water drop having an average diameter of more than or equal to 3 mm, or 10-20 bead-like water drops having an average diameter of 1 mm appear. A score of 2 represents that 2-9 bead-like water drops having an average diameter of 1 mm appear. A score of 1 represents that no water drop appears. Each level between scores 5 to 4, 4 to 3, 3 to 2, and 2 to 1 shows that the water-releasing effect is between the two end values described above, and the lower the score, the poorer the water-releasing effect.
In one embodiment, the water-releasing effect of the cosmetic composition of the present disclosure is about 4 to 5. In embodiments, having higher levels of glycerin, namely greater than 30%, the water-releasing effect of the cosmetic composition of the present disclosure is about 2 to 3.
The water-silicone boundary of the water-in-oil emulsion of the present disclosure is stable as shown in
Tackiness Test
The tackiness of the cosmetic compositions is measured using a TA.XT Plus Texture Analyzer. The cosmetic composition is evenly applied on a Leneta drawdown card in the amount of 0.1 g over an area of 2 cm×6.5 cm and allowed to air-dry for 2 min. The drawdown card with cosmetic composition or test product is mounted on a testing platform. The measurement is made using a tack probe and is recorded with Exponent 32 software. The average of six (6) measurements for each formula is used in the analysis. The tackiness of the test product is expressed as the force (in Newtons) required to lift the tack probe from the test product surface. The higher the force required to remove the tack probe from the test product surface, the tackier the cosmetic composition. Generally, tackiness levels of greater than 20 Newtons will register a “tackiness” feeling with consumers. Tackiness levels of less than 20 Newtons are generally not considered to be “tacky” by consumers.
Upon application of the water-releasing cosmetic composition to keratinous tissue, the aqueous phase droplets are released from the emulsion and form droplets on the surface of a keratinous tissue as a result of the shearing forces used to apply the cosmetic composition to the keratinous tissue.
A method for treating keratinous tissue includes applying to the keratinous tissue the cosmetic composition of the present disclosure. The cosmetic composition of the present disclosure is in any desirable cosmetic form, such as, but not limited to, liquid lotions, creams, and mousses, can be applied to keratinous tissue to provide greater hydration.
The following examples are intended to further illustrate the present invention. They are not intended to limit the invention in any way. Unless otherwise indicated, all parts are by weight.
The method of making each of the examples provided in Tables 1 and 2 is generally the same. The examples in Table 1 include inventive examples and comparative examples having a water-releasing effect. The example in Table 2 is a comparative example illustrating the tackiness of glycerin in a typical water-in-oil emulsion.
In making each of the examples in Tables 1 and 2, the following procedure is used. The ingredients of Phase B (aqueous) are mixed together in a side kettle at ambient temperature or higher temperatures. The ingredients of Phase A (oil phase) are mixed together in a main kettle at ambient temperature or higher temperatures. The mixture of Phase B ingredients (aqueous phase) is slowly added to the mixture of Phase A ingredients (oil phase), while mixing. As viscosity of the mixture increases, mixing speed in the main kettle is increased to about 1200 rpm. After the first phase (aqueous) is mixed into the second phase (oil) a water-in-oil emulsion is formed.
The water-in-oil emulsion of inventive Example 1 is prepared according to the procedure outlined above and includes adding a pH adjuster, citric acid, to the aqueous phase prior to mixing Phase B (aqueous phase) with Phase A (oil phase). Example 1 includes 15% glycerin. The emulsion formed in Example 1 is a white, trembling gel-like cream that releases droplets upon rubbing. The water/silicone emulsion boundary layer is stable and includes droplets having various droplet sizes, with some droplets as large as 50 microns or greater (see
The water-in-oil emulsion of inventive Example 2 is prepared according to the procedure outlined above. Example 2 includes 45% glycerin. The emulsion formed in Example 2 is translucent, white gel-like cream that releases droplets upon rubbing. The water/silicone emulsion boundary layer is stable with smaller and more uniform water droplets. The viscosity of Example 2 is measured using a Brookfield Viscometer, using spindle T-D and speed set at 10 rpm. The viscosity of Example 2 is 63,000 cp (mPa·s). The tackiness of Example 2 is measured using a TA.XT Plus Texture Analyzer as described above. The tackiness of Example 2 is 10.19 Newtons, which indicates there is little or no tackiness feeling when applied to the skin. The water-releasing effect of Example 2 is measured by placing about 0.2 g of the cosmetic composition on the back of a hand. The cosmetic composition is then applied thereon by circling gently with the middle finger and ring finger of the other hand. The phenomenon of the water-releasing effect is observed when the circling application reaches about 20 cycles. Approximately 9-11 bead-like droplets having an average diameter of 1 mm appear. The water-releasing effect of the water-in-oil emulsion of Example 2 is about 2 to 3. Example 2 incorporates very high levels of glycerin and does not have a tacky feel.
The water-in-oil emulsion of Example 3 is a comparative example and is prepared according to the procedure outlined above. Example 3 does not include glycerin. The emulsion formed in Example 3 is a frosty-looking, white cream that releases droplets upon rubbing. The water/silicone emulsion boundary layer is stable with various droplet sizes. The viscosity of Example 3 is measured using a Brookfield Viscometer, using spindle T-D and speed set at 10 rpm. The viscosity of Example 3 is 60,000 cp (mPa·s). The tackiness of Example 3 is measured using a TA.XT Plus Texture Analyzer. The tackiness of Example 3 is 8.99 Newtons. Example 3 has little or no tackiness feeling when applied to the skin. The water-releasing effect of Example 3 is measured by placing about 0.2 g of the cosmetic composition on the back of a hand. The cosmetic composition is then applied thereon by circling gently with the middle finger and ring finger of the other hand. The phenomenon of the water-releasing effect is observed when the circling application reaches 20 cycles. Approximately 5-7 bead-like droplets of more than or equal to 3 mm appear and approximately 15-18 bead-like droplets having an average diameter of more than or equal to 1 mm appear. The water-releasing effect of the water-in-oil emulsion of Example 3 is about 4 to 5. Example 3 does not include glycerin; therefore, Example 3 does not provide the hydrating and moisturizing properties of inventive Examples 1 and 2.
The water-in-oil emulsion of Example 4 is a comparative example and is prepared according to the procedure outlined above. The water-in-oil emulsion of Example 4 is a typical water-in-oil emulsion. Example 4 includes about 10% by weight glycerin. The emulsion formed in Example 4 is a glossy, white cream that does not release droplets upon rubbing. The water/oil emulsion boundary layer is stable and includes uniform droplets evenly dispersed within the emulsion. The viscosity of Example 4 is measured using a Brookfield Viscometer, using spindle T-D and speed set at 10 rpm. The viscosity of Example 4 is 14,200 cp (mPa·s). The tackiness of Example 4 is measured using a TA.XT Plus Texture Analyzer for a tackiness of 29.63 Newtons. The tackiness of Example 4 is greater than 20 Newtons, as such, Example 4 feels tacky when applied to the skin. The water-releasing effect of Example 4 is measured by placing about 0.2 g of the cosmetic composition on the back of a hand. The cosmetic composition is applied thereon by circling gently with the middle finger and ring finger of the other hand. The phenomenon of the water-releasing effect is observed when the circling application reaches 20 cycles. No bead-like droplets having an average diameter of more than or equal to 1 mm appeared. The water-releasing effect of the water-in-oil emulsion of Example 4 is about 1; therefore, Example 4 has no water-releasing effect.
In making each of the examples in Tables 3, the following procedure is used.
The ingredients of Phase B1 (aqueous) are mixed together in a side beaker with a rotor/stator mixer until all solids are dissolved, giving a clear solution. If needed, Phase B1 (aqueous) can be gently heated to about 40-45° C. until all solids are dissolved. The final pH of the aqueous phase is adjusted to about 5.0±0.3 with Phase B2 (citric acid). The ingredients of Phase A (oil phase) are placed in a main beaker and are mixed well with a propeller mixer at about 600-700 RPM and set aside. The mixture of aqueous phase ingredients (Phase B1 and B2 combined) are slowly added to the mixed ingredients of Phase A (oil phase) using a prop mixer over a period of 10-15 minutes for an about 1 kg batch. As the viscosity of the mixture increases, the stirring speed is increased from 700 rpm to about 1200 rpm. As the aqueous phase is mixed into the oil phase a water-in-oil emulsion is formed. Optionally, powders are added to the batch and are mixed into the water-in-oil emulsion.
The water-in-oil emulsion of inventive Example 5 is prepared according to the procedure outlined above. Example 5 includes 15% glycerin. The total weight percentage of the aqueous or water phase is about 86.93 and the total weight percent of the oil phase is about 12.07, making the a ratio of the aqueous phase to oil phase about 7.2. The emulsion formed in Example 5 is a white, glossy, trembling cream that releases droplets upon rubbing. The water/silicone emulsion boundary layer is stable and includes droplets having various droplet sizes, with some droplets as large as 50 microns or greater. The viscosity of Example 5 is measured using a Brookfield Viscometer, using spindle T-D and speed set at 10 rpm for 1 minute. The viscosity of Example 5 is about 45,000 cp (mPa·s). The tackiness of Example 5 is measured using a TA.XT Plus Texture Analyzer. The tackiness of Example 5 is 7.70 Newtons, which indicates little or no tackiness feeling when applied to the skin. The water-releasing effect of Example 5 is measured by placing about 0.2 g of the cosmetic composition on the back of a hand, then applying thereon by circling gently with the middle finger and ring finger of the other hand. The phenomenon of the water-releasing effect is observed when the circling application reaches 20 cycles. Approximately 5-7 bead-like droplets of more than or equal to 3 mm appears and approximately 15-20 bead-like droplets having an average diameter of more than or equal to 1 mm appear. The water-releasing effect of the water-in-oil emulsion of Example 5 is about 4 to 5.
The water-in-oil emulsion of inventive Example 6 is prepared according to the procedure outlined above. Example 6 includes 15% glycerin. The total weight percentage of the aqueous or water phase is about 87.5 and the total weight percent of the oil phase is about 12, making the a ratio of the aqueous phase to oil phase about 7.29. The emulsion formed in Example 6 is a white, glossy, trembling cream that releases droplets upon rubbing. The water/silicone emulsion boundary layer is stable and includes droplets having various droplet sizes, with some droplets as large as 50 microns or greater. The viscosity of Example 6 is measured using a Brookfield Viscometer, using spindle T-D and speed set at 10 rpm for 1 minute. The viscosity of Example 6 is about 40,000 cp (mPa·s). The tackiness of Example 6 is measured using a TA.XT Plus Texture Analyzer. The tackiness of Example 6 is 7.52 Newtons, which indicates little or no tackiness feeling when applied to the skin. The water-releasing effect of Example 6 is measured by placing about 0.2 g of the cosmetic composition on the back of a hand, then applying thereon by circling gently with the middle finger and ring finger of the other hand. The phenomenon of the water-releasing effect is observed when the circling application reaches 20 cycles. Approximately 7-10 bead-like droplets of more than or equal to 3 mm appears and approximately 15-20 bead-like droplets having an average diameter of more than or equal to 1 mm appear. The water-releasing effect of the water-in-oil emulsion of Example 6 is about 4 to 5.
The water-in-oil emulsion of inventive Example 7 is prepared according to the procedure outlined above. Example 7 includes 45% glycerin. The total weight percentage of the aqueous or water phase is about 88 and the total weight percent of the oil phase is about 12, making the a ratio of the aqueous phase to oil phase about 7.33. The emulsion formed in Example 7 is a white, trembling cream that releases droplets upon rubbing. The water/silicone emulsion boundary layer is stable and includes droplets having various droplet sizes, with some droplets as large as 50 microns or greater. The viscosity of Example 7 is measured using a Brookfield Viscometer, using spindle T-D and speed set at 10 rpm for 1 minute. The viscosity of Example 7 is about 50,000 cp (mPa·s). The tackiness of Example 7 is measured using a TA.XT Plus Texture Analyzer. The tackiness of Example 7 is 12.30 Newtons, which indicates little or no tackiness feeling when applied to the skin. The water-releasing effect of Example 7 is measured by placing about 0.2 g of the cosmetic composition on the back of a hand, then applying thereon by circling gently with the middle finger and ring finger of the other hand. The phenomenon of the water-releasing effect is observed when the circling application reaches 20 cycles. Approximately 5-10 bead-like droplets having an average diameter of more than or equal to 1 mm appear. The water-releasing effect of the water-in-oil emulsion of Example 7 is about 2 to 3.
The water-in-oil emulsion of inventive Example 8 is prepared according to the procedure outlined above. Example 8 includes 15% glycerin. The total weight percentage of the aqueous or water phase is about 90 and the total weight percent of the oil phase is about 10, making the a ratio of the aqueous phase to oil phase about 9. The emulsion formed in Example 8 is a white, glossy, trembling cream that releases droplets upon rubbing. The water/silicone emulsion boundary layer is stable and includes droplets having various droplet sizes, with some droplets as large as 50 microns or greater (see
Hydrating Efficacy Study
Hydrating Efficacy of the present disclosure was evaluated in a double-blind test. The formula provided in Example 5 was evaluated to determine the hydrating efficacy compared to a known positive control, L'Oreal HYDRA RENEWAL® (having a glycerin content of about 7%).
Twenty-three (23) women with dry inner forearm skin tested Example 5 and positive control (L'Oreal HYDRA RENEWAL®). The test was conducted over a four day period and the study conditions were as follows:
An average of three (3) measurements were taken at each site for data analysis. The measurements were taken with Corneometer® CM825, available from Courage+Khazaka, Köln, Germany.
A paired t-test was used to compare the treated and untreated sites at baseline. To determine the treatment effect of the formulation of Example 5 and the positive control, differences from the baseline (T24 hrs−Baseline, T48 hrs−Baseline, and T72 hrs−Baseline) of the treated and untreated sites for each product were compared using a paired t-test. For the positive control, twenty-four (24) hour measurement was done on bare skin before reapplication of positive control on days 2 and 3 of the study. The positive control was reapplied every 24 hours during the study. The formulation provided in Example 5 was applied only one time at the start of the study on day 1. The results of Corneometer measurements and calculated p-Values for the study are below.
As expected, the study results show that there was no significant difference in hydration between the control sites, the positive control sites, or Example 5 treated sites at baseline on day 1. The significance level for the study was set at a p-Value of ≦0.05. The study shows that the positive control, HYDRA RENEWAL®, statistically hydrated the skin twenty-four (24) hours after product application on each previous day, when compared to the untreated control. The study also shows that formulation of Example 5 statistically hydrated the skin at twenty-four (24), forty-eight (48), and seventy-two (72) hours after product application, when compared to the untreated control. This study indicates that formulation of Example 5 provides a 72-hour period of extended hydrating benefit on the skin.
While the invention has been described with reference to a preferred embodiment, it will be understood by those skilled in the art that various changes may be made and equivalents may be substituted for elements thereof without departing from the scope of the invention. In addition, many modifications may be made to adapt a particular situation or material to the teachings of the invention without departing from the essential scope thereof. Therefore, it is intended that the invention not be limited to the particular embodiment disclosed as the best mode contemplated for carrying out this invention, but that the invention will include all embodiments falling within the scope of the appended claims.
This patent application claims the benefit of and is a continuation-in-part of U.S. Non-Provisional patent application Ser. No. 13/529,059 filed on Jun. 21, 2012, and entitled “WATER-RELEASING COSMETIC COMPOSITION,” the disclosure of which is incorporated by reference as if fully rewritten herein.
| Number | Date | Country | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Parent | 13529059 | Jun 2012 | US |
| Child | 13855495 | US |
