The manufacturing of a shoe upper may involve sewing and adhering a number of pieces and or upper portions to result in a three-dimensional volume able to receive a wearer's foot. The manufacturing resources utilized to cut and secure the individual pieces and/or upper portions can be costly and detrimental to the resulting quality of the shoe upper. However, even though the incorporation of multiple pieces may increase the burden on manufacturing resources, the various pieces and/or portions may be utilized in the manufacturing of shoe uppers to impart desired physical characteristics to the shoe uppers.
Aspects of the present invention relate to a woven material having varied functional zones having varied degrees of stretch. The woven material may comprise a plurality of woven cells defined by their respective perimeters. Each woven cell in the plurality of woven cells may comprise one or more physically distinct regions enclosed within, wherein the physically distinct regions may comprise different physical, chemical, physicochemical properties, and the like, or in other words, may be reversibly or substantially irreversibly reactive in response to an external stimulus. Substantially irreversible as described herein may describe a physical and or chemical change where the material undergoing the change may not be fully returned to its original state (prior to being exposed to the external stimulus) by normal wear and tear, for example. For example, each woven cell in the plurality of woven cells may comprise two regions, namely a first region and a second region, where the amount of stretchability of each woven cell may be determined, in part, by the area occupied by each of the first region and the second region. In another example, each woven cell in the plurality of woven cells may comprise only a first region enclosed within, where the amount of stretchability of each woven cell may be determined, in part, by the area occupied by the first region in each respective woven cell. The area occupied by the first region (and the second region) in each woven cell may be varied at different locations in the woven material and consequently, the woven cells comprising, for example, a larger first region may be more stretchable than the woven cells comprising a smaller first region. In other words, the placement of the different woven cells on the woven material having the different stretchabilities provide the functional zones having varied degrees of stretch in the woven material. The woven material having varied functional zones having varied degrees of stretch may be manufactured as a rolled goods fabric/textile, or in the alternative, the woven material may be formed as a discrete piece of material according to the specifications of a final product (e.g., a footwear upper, an upper body garment, a lower body garment, a glove, a hat, and the like). For example, a footwear upper may be formed from a cut section (if formed as a rolled good) of the woven material with varied functional zones integrally formed therein. The varied functional zones may be strategically positioned zones having varied degrees of stretch that work to enhance a comfort of a wearer when the footwear article comprising the footwear upper formed from the woven material, is worn by a wearer. The footwear upper may start as a substantially planar upper that may undergo processing to be formed into a three-dimensional upper having a volume that may be occupied by a wearer's foot. Therefore, an upper having integrally formed functional zones may be formed in a single weaving operation that integrates the various functional zones in a common manufacturing process without utilizing post-processing coupling techniques to integrate the functional zones.
This Summary is provided to introduce a selection of concepts in a simplified form that are further described below in the Detailed Description. This Summary is not intended to identify key features or essential features of the claimed subject matter, nor is it intended to be used as an aid in determining the scope of the claimed subject matter.
Illustrative embodiments of the present invention are described in detail below with reference to the attached drawing figures, which are incorporated by reference herein and wherein:
The subject matter of embodiments of the present invention is described with specificity herein to meet statutory requirements. However, the description itself is not intended to limit the scope of this patent. Rather, the inventors have contemplated that the claimed subject matter might also be embodied in other ways, to include different elements or combinations of elements similar to the ones described in this document, in conjunction with other present or future technologies.
Aspects of the present invention relate to a woven material that comprises an inner surface and an outer surface. The woven material comprises a plurality of woven cells, each woven cell in the plurality of woven cells, at least when observed on the outer surface, comprises a perimeter comprising at least a first yarn, the perimeter defining an edge of each woven cell in the plurality of woven cells. Further, each woven cell in the plurality of woven cells may comprise a reactive region having at least a second yarn. In another example, each woven cell may comprise a reactive region having a second yarn and a non-reactive region having at least the first yarn. In accordance with an aspect herein, the perimeter and the non-reactive region may comprise a common composition and/or weaving pattern, as will become more apparent with respect to the discussion of the figures, below. The reactive and non-reactive regions are enclosed within the perimeter, where the reactive region may be configured to surround the non-reactive region if a non-reactive region is provided. In other words, the reactive region abuts the perimeter of the woven cell. The reactive region in each woven cell is configured to undergo a physical change from a first physical state to a second physical state when the woven material is exposed to an external stimulus. The non-reactive region, wen provided, is configured to remain unchanged when the woven material is exposed to the external stimulus.
The plurality of woven cells may form, for example, an array of nesting woven cells in the woven material. In other words, at least two woven cells may share at least a portion of the perimeter described above. For example, the woven cells may comprise, for example, a shape that is amenable for nesting. For example, geometric shapes with straight lines such as triangles, squares, rectangles, parallelograms, diamonds, hexagons, octagons, pentagons, are amenable for nesting, or in other words, forming a uniform array of the particular shape throughout a surface, with no irregular open gaps between shapes (i.e., for example, when laying tile on a surface, every tile is the same size and shape). Other desirable shapes may be for example, auxetic shapes such as, for example, an auxetic hexagon, which exhibits a negative Poisson's ratio. The auxetic shape may provide an additional dimensionality to the stretchability of the woven material described in accordance with aspects herein.
The woven material in accordance with aspects herein is capable of undergoing a physical deformation that gives the woven material unique stretch properties in at least the weft direction. The physical properties of the woven material may be achieved by the types of materials used to weave the woven material and the types of weaving patterns and/or techniques used to weave the woven material. In other words, the woven material may comprise multiple types of yarns, the particular properties of each type of yarn, along with the woven structures in the woven material (plurality of woven cells) may provide the woven material with different desirable properties. The yarns may be, for example, spun yarns and/or monofilament yarns according to their respective material composition, and/or texture. The different types of yarns may include a combination of synthetic materials (e.g., polyester, rayon, nylon, thermoplastics such as thermoplastic polyurethane, elastomers or elastic materials such as elastane, rubber, and the like), a combination of synthetic materials with natural materials, only natural materials (e.g. cotton, hemp, silk, etc.), and the like. The different yarns may be interwoven with each other to form the plurality of woven cells in the woven material in accordance with aspects herein. For purposes herein, the materials used for weaving are described as yarns, yarns are contemplated to include threads, strings, cords, monofilaments, and the like. Additionally, the yarns in accordance with aspects herein may comprise fibers or filaments that are twisted, braided, spun, melt spun, tangled, and the like, without departing from the aspects described herein. Furthermore, the yarns in accordance with aspects herein may comprise a single material, or in the alternative, the yarns may be multi-component yarns formed from two or more synthetic, natural, or both synthetic and natural materials.
In an exemplary aspect, the warp yarns in the woven material may be comprised of, for example, polyester yarns having a weight in denier (D=grams/9000 meters) between 50D-600D, 100D-570D, 110D-450D, 130D-330D, 140D-200D, 150D-180D, and the like. The warp yarns are present throughout the length of the woven material, whether the woven material is woven as a discrete garment panel, a footwear panel, and the like, or whether the woven material is woven as a roll goods (i.e. X meters of the fabric/textile per roll). The weft yarns in the woven material may comprise different types of yarns, whose compositions may play a role in the special properties of the woven material. The weft yarns are present throughout the width of the woven material and may comprise, for example, thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) coated polyester yarns, silicone coated polyester yarns, rubber coated polyester yarns, elastomer yarns (e.g., elastane, synthetic rubbers (e.g., silicone rubber, polyacrylic rubber), natural rubber (e.g., gum)), yarns comprising different degrees of aramid fibers (e.g., Kevlar®), coated nylon yarns similar to the above described polyester yarns, and the like. The yarns described above are merely exemplary and it is contemplated that the yarns in accordance with aspects herein may comprise different compositions than the ones described above. For example, it is contemplated that the yarns may be monofilament or multi-component yarns comprising different types of materials than the ones described above. The choice of materials may differ according to the specific properties desired in the final woven fabric/textile. Since there is greater flexibility in the weft direction in a weaving process, the weft yarns may be used to introduce different properties into the woven fabric/textile based on need, visual appeal, inherent properties, surface exposure, texture, resilience, elasticity, and the like, for the final woven product/material. However, it is also contemplated that the warp yarns may also be used to impart different properties to the woven material in the warp direction.
For example, the woven material in accordance with aspects herein may comprise a first weft yarn such as, for example, a polyester yarn having a weight in denier between 200D-400D, 220D-380D, 240D-360D, 260D-340D, 280D-340D, 300D-320D. The woven material may further comprise a second weft yarn such as, for example, a TPU coated polyester yarn having a weight in denier between 300D-700D, 350D-650D, 400D-600D, 450D-550D. Furthermore, the woven material may comprise a third weft yarn such as, for example, a covered elastic yarn (having a core of an elastic material and a cover of, for example, polyester, e.g. elastane) having a weight in denier for the elastic core between 50D-300D, 60D-290D, 70D-280D, 80D-270D, 90D-260D, 100D-250D, 110D-240D, 120D-230D, 130D-220D, 140D-280D, 140D-250D.
The first, second, and third weft yarns may impart different properties to the woven material and more specifically, to each woven cell in the woven material. For example, the first weft yarn may provide dimensional sturdiness (i.e., lock-down) of each woven cell within the plurality of woven cells, the second weft yarn may provide, for example, abrasion resistance to the woven material, and the third weft yarn may provide stretchability/elasticity to the woven material. Furthermore, the technique in which each of the different yarns are integrated to form, for example, a single layer, multiple layers, voided areas, and the like, may also impart different properties to the woven material. For example, a woven material generally having at least a first surface and a second surface, may be woven to expose certain materials (i.e., yarns) in the first surface, and different materials in the second surface, at different sections/areas/portions of the final woven material (i.e., woven fabric/textile or woven form such as for example, a footwear upper).
Additionally or alternatively, one or more of at least the first, second, and third weft yarns may be sensitive to an external stimulus, such as, for example, temperature, causing the yarn to undergo one or more of a physical change, a chemical change, or both a physical and a chemical change when exposed to the external stimulus. Exemplary external stimuli may include, for example, temperature, pressure, moisture, and the like. For example, if a yarn is temperature sensitive, the yarn(s) may be sensitive to a particular temperature range where when exposed to the particular temperature range, may undergo a physical, chemical, or physicochemical change in response to the particular temperature range. In other words, the yarn(s) may comprise a threshold temperature where the yarn(s) is in a first physical, chemical, or physicochemical state below such threshold temperature, and may be induced to move into a second physical, chemical, or physicochemical state when exposed to temperatures that are equal to or close to the threshold temperature (i.e. there may be a ±15° C. margin, ±10° C. margin, a ±5° C. margin, and the like). Depending on the material composition of the yarns used in weaving the woven material, the threshold temperature may range between, for example, 100° C.-150° C., 105° C.-145° C., 110° C.-140° C., 115° C.-135° C., 120° C.-130° C., and 125° C.-135° C. In an exemplary construction, the woven material may be exposed to a steaming process at a temperature between 100° C. and 150° C. The 150° C. upper range, in an exemplary aspect, is limited to maintain a physical and chemical integrity of one or more of the contemplated materials (i.e., yarns) that are considered to be more stable and/or non-reactive when exposed to the external stimulus, when compared to the sensitive materials (i.e., yarns). Therefore, the range of temperature may allow for the thermoproces sing of the intended materials without inducing an unintended degradation of the material not intended to be thermoprocessed, in an exemplary aspect.
The physical, chemical, or physicochemical change may be a reversible or a substantially irreversible change (i.e., the change may be between about 49%-0%, reversible, 40% reversible, 35% reversible, 30% reversible 25% reversible, 20% reversible, 15% reversible, 10% reversible, 5% reversible, etc.) from a first state to a second state. When the change is irreversible, the yarn may remain in its second state irrespective of subsequent processing (e.g., even when exposed to a similar or a different external stimulus). When the change is reversible, the yarn may be returned to the first state from the second state in response to time, a second external stimulus such as moisture (e.g. by washing), and the like. In accordance with aspects herein, a weft yarn capable of undergoing a physical change in response to an external stimulus may be provided in the woven fabric/textile. The weft yarn may, for example, be a temperature sensitive yarn that is dimensionally unstable at or above a particular threshold temperature. For example, the threshold temperature may be between 100° C. and 150° C. and therefore, when exposed to the threshold temperature (e.g. 120° C., 115° C., 100° C., 137° C., and the like), a length of the weft yarn may be irreversibly reduced from a first length to a second length. In other words, the weft yarn may become physically shorter when exposed to the particular threshold temperature. This irreversible physical change in the yarn may be used to provide unique three dimensional characteristics (i.e., texture (e.g., z-directional change in a substantially planar good)) to the fabric/textile in accordance with aspects herein that will become more apparent in the description provided below with reference to the figures.
It is contemplated that any type and combination of manufacturing techniques may be implemented in exemplary aspects. For example, it is contemplated that a substantially fabric/textile may be formed as a roll good or a substantially planar upper for an article of footwear may be formed in a loom that is functional to alternate different material yarns and weaving techniques utilized in one or more regions. Similarly, it is contemplated that a knitting machine may be implemented to form a substantially planar material, as provided herein.
Traditionally, weaving utilizes two distinct directional sets of yarns/threads/fibers/filaments that are interlaced orthogonally to one another to form the resulting fabric/textile. For example, a first directional set running in a first direction of the resulting fabric may be referred to as a warp set, or “warps” for short. Interlaced at a right angle to the warps are a second directional set, referred to as a weft set, or “wefts” for short. Stated differently, longitudinal elements (e.g., threads, yarn, fibers, and filaments) of a woven article are the warp and the lateral elements are the weft.
Depending on a number of factors, characteristics of the resulting fabric may be affected. Those characteristics may include, but are not limited to, the fabric's size, shape, feel, look, texture, impact absorption/attenuation/response, moisture repellency/wicking, thermal energy insulation/dissipation, stretchability, and the like. Factors that are contemplated as affecting the characteristics include, but are not limited to how the warp and weft are interwoven. Additionally, depending on the size of the elements utilized in the warp and/or the weft relative to other warp and/or weft affect the resulting fabric characteristics. The type of material from which individual (or sets) of elements are formed (e.g., twisted fibers, synthetic filaments, multi-material filaments, and the like) also may affect the characteristics. Reactions and other in-line and post-processing activities (e.g., introduction of stimulus to a reactive material or portion of material) may affect the resulting characteristics of the fabric. Other variables that are manipulated during the weaving process may also affect the resulting characteristics (e.g., tension, loom type, loom characteristics, temperature, and the like). The formation of a woven product, such as a roll good, or an upper for an article of footwear, may occur on a loom-like device. In an exemplary aspect, the loom holds the warp threads in place as weft threads are interlaced in a repeating or non-repeating manner. It is also contemplated that other devices may be implemented other than a traditional loom to form a woven product. For example, tablet weaving, back-strapping, and other techniques are contemplated.
As will be discussed and described in more detail hereinafter, it is possible to implement any number of weaving techniques. In a plain weave, the warp and weft are aligned so they form a simple criss-cross pattern, which may be balanced so that there are the same number of ends per inch (i.e., warps) and picks per inch (i.e., wefts). Another example weaving pattern that is contemplated herein is a twill weave. In a twill weave, a pattern of diagonal parallel ribs (also referred to as a wale) may be visible. The ribs are formed by passing the weft over one or more warps and then under two or more warps. The following row of wefts then are offset by one or more warps from the previous row providing a stepping pattern. Additionally, a satin weave is contemplated. A satin weave may have four or more wefts floating over a single warp or vice versa. The type of woven process employed is not limited to plain, twill, or satin, but instead they are merely exemplary in nature and may form a building block from which the ultimate weaving process is selected.
In addition to traditional weaving techniques, it is also contemplated that a dobby, jacquard, or other mechanism may be implemented for manipulating heddles or harness(es) controlling the position of one or more warps to form the resulting woven article. Therefore, any combination of weaving techniques may be implemented.
In the alternative of weaving, it is also contemplated that a substantially planar upper may be formed utilizing a knitting technique. A knit article, such as a shoe upper, is an article formed, in an exemplary aspect, through a method of integrating consecutive rows of loops (e.g., stitches) with a subsequent row of loops. A new loop in a subsequent row is pulled through an existing loop of a previous row, in an example. In knitting a yarn/fiber/thread/filament follows a course forming the symmetric loops (i.e., bights) symmetrically above and below the mean path of the yarn. A variety of stitches (e.g., knit or purl, slip-stitch fair-isle, drop-stitch) may be implemented to provide various functionality (e.g., elasticity), dimensional effects (e.g., ribbing, welting, basket weaving) and aesthetic results. Any combination of materials and stitching techniques may be implemented in one or more aspects herein.
A single spun yarn may be knitted as is, or it may be braided or plied with another yarn. In plying, two or more yarns are spun together. When spun together, a direction of spinning may be opposite from which the yarns were originally spun (if at all); for example, two Z-twist yarns may be plied with an S-twist. The opposing twist may relieve some of the yarns' tendency to curl up and produces a thicker, balanced yarn. Plied yarns may themselves be plied together, producing cabled yarns or multi-stranded yarns. Sometimes, the yarns being plied are fed at different rates, so that one yarn loops around the other, as in bouclé.
Referring now to the figures, an exemplary aspect is a woven substantially planar roll good fabric/textile 100 with warps running in the warp direction 106 and wefts running perpendicular to the warps in a weft direction 108, as shown in
Moving on to
When the fabric/textile is woven as continuous material and formed as a roll good fabric/textile 100 as shown in
As further depicted in
As shown in
The woven footwear upper form 310 is substantially planar and comprised of a plurality of functionally varied regions. Stated differently, the woven footwear upper 310 may be formed from a common machine that utilizes varying techniques to impart the functional regions and dimensional characteristics. This is in contrast to a typical shoe construction that requires a plurality of subsequent manufacturing processes to couple one or more components to an underlying substrate to achieve varied functional zones. For example, a cut and sew (or bond) approach may be utilized in a typical upper construction where multiple cut pieces are mechanically connected with sewing and/or adhesives in a series of events. Advantages of a woven footwear upper in accordance with aspects herein over traditional shoe manufacturing processes, may include, for example: reduced labor, reduced time, greater versatility, greater quality control, and the like.
While the terms “medial” and “lateral” will be used herein for purposes of convenience, it is intended and understood that each term could be substituted for the other term. Or, in the alternative, it is understood that generic terms, such as “first” and “second” could be substituted for either medial or lateral. This substitution is, in part, to allow for a right article of footwear construction and a left article of footwear construction. Similarly, it is contemplated that some portions of the woven footwear upper form 310 may alternatively be coupled (either integrally or mechanically) to an opposite side (e.g., the heel portion 420a may be integrally coupled with the medial side portion 450a and the heel portion 420b may be integrally coupled with the lateral side portion 450b , in an exemplary aspect).
Starting at the bottom leftmost portion of
Continuing on from the lateral lower heel edge 472b , the perimeter extends to a lateral heel flap edge 476b . The lateral heel flap edge 476b merges into a lateral flap edge 478b in the toewardly direction. The lateral flap edge 478b forms into the lateral toe flap edge 480b . In combination the lateral heel flap edge 476b , the lateral flap edge 478b , and the lateral toe flap edge 480b , in part, define a lateral sole flap 430b . The lateral sole flap 430b , in an exemplary aspect, may be coupled with an opposite medial sole flap 430a along the lateral flap edge 478b to form a bottom portion of the interior 903 of the article of footwear 900 (shown in
Similarly, it is contemplated that the lateral heel flap edge 476b may be coupled with the lateral lower heel edge 472b to also form, in part, a three-dimensional volume of the interior 903. Further, it is contemplated that the lateral toe flap edge 480b and a lateral toe edge 482b may be coupled to also form, in part, a three-dimensional volume of the interior 903. In a post-proces sing step, the corresponding edges in the woven footwear upper 310 may be mechanically coupled (e.g., sewn, sealed, bonded, adhered) together to form a three-dimensional volume.
The lateral toe edge 482b extends toewardly from the lateral toe flap edge 480b intersection around the toe box 410 as part of the perimeter 470. The lateral toe edge 482b merges into a medial toe edge 482a . Together, the medial toe edge 482a and the lateral toe edge 482b form a toe edge defining a perimeter of the toe box 410.
The medial toe edge 482a intersects a medial toe flap edge 480a . The medial toe flap edge 480a intersects with the medial flap edge 478a , which extends heelwardly to a medial heel flap edge 476a . The medial flap edge 478a was previously discussed as a coupling edge in connection with the lateral flap edge 478b . The medial heel flap edge 476a merges into the medial lower heel edge 472a , which was previously discussed as being formed in complement to the lateral lower heel edge 472b . Together the medial toe flap edge 480a , the medial flap edge 478a , and the medial heel flap edge 476a define, at least in part, a perimeter of the medial sole flap 430a . The medial toe flap edge 480a and the medial toe edge 482a are contemplated as being coupled, in part, to form the three-dimensional volume from the woven footwear upper form 310. Similarly, it is contemplated that the medial heel flap edge 476a and the medial lower heel edge 472a are contemplated as being coupled, in part, to form the three-dimensional volume from the woven footwear upper form 310. As previously discussed, the medial sole flap 430a and the lateral sole flap 430b may be coupled to form a lower portion (e.g., sole-like surface) from the woven footwear upper form 310 when in a three-dimensional configuration, as illustrated in
In an exemplary aspect, it is contemplated that the medial sole flap 430a and the lateral sole flap 430b are mechanically coupled with the sole 902 of
In accordance with exemplary aspects, an adhesive or other bonding agent may be applied to a surface portion of the assembled woven footwear upper 310 for securing it to a surface of a bottom unit (such as a sole or midsole). Therefore, it is contemplated that the sewing and or adhering that may be used to form the upper and/or secure the upper to the sole may further aid in reinforcing the coupling of the lateral sole flap 430b and the medial sole flap 430a , in exemplary aspects.
It is contemplated that any type of lasting construction may be implemented in exemplary aspects. For example it is contemplated that a strobel last (e.g., a material is coupled with the upper along a perimeter portion roughly matching a midsole perimeter) may be utilized in aspects. Further, it is contemplated that a hybrid last may be utilized that incorporates two or more lasting techniques. An example of a hybrid lasting may include utilizing a strobel last in a heel region and a slip last in a metatarsal region of the foot.
The substantially planar woven footwear upper form 310, as described above, may be manufactured from a roll good fabric/textile, or in a sheet-like manner having varied materials (e.g., organic, synthetic), varied manufacturing technique (e.g., differing weaving techniques), varied physical properties (e.g., modulus of elasticity, impact attenuation), and varied geometric properties (e.g., shape, dimension, thickness). It is to be noted that while an exemplary woven upper form 310 is provided, additional configurations may be possible and implemented without departing from the aspects herein. For example, medial and lateral upper components may be cut out in separate pieces, the medial side may comprise more upper portions (i.e., heel quarter, vamp, to box, and the like) than the lateral side of the upper form, or vice versa. Additionally, although aspects herein are described relative to an article of footwear, other type of garments may also benefit from the technology described herein such as, for example, garments, tents, covers, and the like.
The woven footwear upper form 310 is also comprised of functionally-varied regions. Functionally-varied regions are portions of the woven footwear upper form 310 that have varied physical characteristics from other portions of the woven footwear upper form 310. The varied physical characteristics may include a different modulus of elasticity. As used herein, a modulus of elasticity is a measure of ability to stretch in one or more directions. For example, the woven footwear upper form 310 may be comprised of a “non-stretch” portion, a “standard stretch” portion, and a “stretch” portion. The terms are not intended to be literally interpreted, but instead intended to provide a relative measure of elasticity. Therefore, a stretch portion may have a lower modulus of elasticity than a non-stretch portion. This does not imply that a non-stretch portion is without stretch; instead, it means the non-stretch portion is more limited in stretch than a standard or stretch portion of the woven footwear upper form 310.
As described above, the woven fabric/textile in accordance with aspects herein may be woven from a plurality of different types of yarns, each type of yarn comprising physical, chemical, and/or physicochemical properties unique to each type of yarn. For example, the woven textile in accordance with aspects herein may comprise at least three different kinds of weft yarns and at least one type of warp yarns. Specifically, the warp yarns may, for example, be comprised of polyester yarns. More specifically, the warp yarns may, for example, be comprised of polyester yarns weighing between 50D-600D. The weft yarns may include, for example polyester yarns, thermoplastic coated polyester yarns, covered elastic core yarns, resilient aramid yarns, and the like. In an exemplary aspect of the woven material in accordance with aspects herein the different weft yarns having different material compositions may be intercalated at the weaving machine (loom) weaves the woven material. For example, the weft yarns may be comprised of 200D-400D polyester yarns, 300D-700D thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) coated polyester yarns, 50D-300D polyester covered elastic core yarns (e.g. elastane core yarns).
The woven footwear upper form 310 may have strategically placed functional regions, such as stretch regions formed through a plurality of woven cells in the woven footwear upper form 310, as illustrated in
As depicted in
Prior to exposing the woven material to an external stimulus in accordance with aspects herein, such as the fabric/textile piece 300 depicted in
The stretch properties of the woven material in accordance with aspects herein, may therefore be controlled according to the types of yarns and the amount of reactive region present in each individual woven cell. In other words, the larger an area occupied by the reactive region in a single woven cell, the more elastic the woven cell becomes. However, because of the higher modulus of elasticity (compared to the third weft yarn 730) of the first weft yarn 710 and the second weft yarn 720 present in the first layer 702 and the second layer 704, respectively, the amount of stretch of a particular woven cell may be “locked down” or, in other words, limited to the stretched length of the first weft yarn 710 that is floating in the second layer 704 and/or the distance 640 in
In accordance with aspects herein, when for example, the woven footwear upper form 310 in
The articles of footwear depicted in
The article of footwear 900 comprises a sole 902 that may be constructed from resilient materials that are typically employed in the construction of soles of athletic shoes. The sole 902 can be constructed with an outsole, a midsole, and an insert, as is conventional. The sole 902 comprises a bottom surface that functions as the traction surface of the shoe, and an opposite top surface (not shown.) The size of the article of footwear 900 comprises a length that extends from a rear sole heel end 906 to a front toe end 904 of the sole 902. The sole 902 comprises a width that extends between a medial side (not shown) and a lateral side 908 of the sole 902.
The footwear upper 910 may be secured to the sole 902 and extend upwardly from the sole 902, such as from the sole top surface. The footwear upper 910 may be constructed of a flexible material, such as the woven material described above. The footwear upper 910 may be constructed with a heel or quarter area 950 that extends around the sole 902 at the rear sole heel end 906. The heel or quarter area 950 extends upwardly from the sole 902 to an ankle edge 960 defining, in part, an ankle opening 962. The ankle opening 962 provides access to the shoe interior.
From the heel or quarter area 950, the footwear upper 910 has a medial side portion (not shown) and an upper lateral side portion 970 that extend along the respective sole medial side and the sole lateral side 908. The upper medial side portion extends upwardly from the sole medial side to an upper medial side edge (not shown). The upper lateral side portion 970 extends upwardly from the sole lateral side 908 to an upper lateral side edge 972. As illustrated in the figures, the upper medial side edge and the upper lateral side edge 972 extend rearwardly from opposite sides of a toe box area 940 forming, in combination, an upper edge 942. The length of the upper medial side edge and the upper lateral side edge 972 define a forefoot opening 974 in the footwear upper 910 that opens to the shoe interior 903.
The footwear upper 910 is also constructed with the toe box area 940 that extends around and across the sole top surface at the front toe end 904. The toe box area 940 is connected between the upper medial side portion and the upper lateral side portion 970 and encloses a portion of the shoe interior 903 adjacent the front toe end 904. The upper medial side edge and the upper lateral side edge 972 extend rearwardly from the toe box area 940.
A plurality of lacing mechanisms 990 are provided on the upper medial side portion and on the upper lateral side portion 970. The lacing mechanisms may be an aperture through which a string or lace is intended to pass. Additional lacing mechanisms are also contemplated such as hooks, loops, integrated fibers/strings, and the like. For example, the lacing mechanisms 990 may be lacing openings that are typically occupied by a portion of a fastener, such as lacing that close the footwear upper 910 over the forefoot opening 974 of the article of footwear 900. The lacing mechanisms 990 may be eyelet or grommet style aperture, string or ribbon loops, and the like. The lacing mechanisms 990 are arranged in lines along the upper medial side portion and the upper lateral side portion 970, as is conventional. As illustrated in the figures, the lacing mechanisms 990, may extend substantially the entire length of the upper medial side edge and the upper lateral side edge 972. However, it is also contemplated that the footwear upper may not comprise forefoot opening 974, but rather, be enclosed such as in an article of footwear resembling a loafer type construction.
The footwear upper 910 includes a vamp 944 or a throat positioned rearwardly of the toe box area 940, and an optional tongue 946 may extend rearwardly from the vamp 944 through the forefoot opening 974. The optional tongue 946 may extend along the lengths of the upper medial side portion and the upper lateral side portion 970 to a distal end of the tongue near an ankle opening 962. The length and \width of the tongue may position the tongue side edges beneath the upper medial side portion and the upper lateral side portion 970, and may optionally extend the tongue over the forefoot opening 974 of the article of footwear 900.
As described above in reference to
The woven cells such as woven cell 600 depicted in the exemplary woven materials and footwear constructions in
Similarly,
Further,
Moving on to
At step 1520, a portion of the fabric/textile woven at step 1510 may be severed from the rolled good. At step 1530, one or more outlines of one or more upper forms may be optionally provided on the portion of fabric/textile by for example, drawing, stenciling, and the like. At step 1540, the one or more upper forms may be cut out from the fabric/textile portion along the outlines, or alternatively, the one or more upper forms may be die cut or laser cut without having to perform step 1530. An advantage of high energy cutting methods such as laser cutting, is that a seal around the cut edges may be formed simultaneously when cutting, thereby preventing the upper form from, for example, unraveling. This is particularly useful when using synthetic yarns, or a combination of synthetic yarns with natural yarns.
At step 1550, the one or more upper forms cut out from the fabric/textile portion may be steamed or otherwise exposed to an external stimulus to cause the dimensionally unstable third weft yarn in the reactive region of each woven cell to shrink (reduction in length), thereby changing the texture of the fabric. In other words, as the third yarn changes from a first physical state (normal state) to a second physical state (shrunken state: e.g. a reduction in longitudinal length), the first and second layers in the reactive regions may change from a substantially planar state to a bent state Although the steaming step is described here as happening after the one or more upper forms are cut out from the fabric/textile piece. It is contemplated that the steaming step may happen prior to the cutting step, for example, after the fabric/textile portion is severed from the roll good but prior to the upper forms being cut out from the fabric/textile portion.
At step 1560, the one or more steamed footwear upper forms may be lasted to form one or more footwear uppers. At step 1570, a sole may be attached to the one or more lasted footwear uppers to form one or more articles of footwear. At step 1575, the construction of the one or more articles of footwear may be completed by putting finishing touches such as lacing, and the like. Optionally, if reinforcement is desired in certain areas of the one or more articles of footwear that are prone to abrasion (e.g., toe box area, quarter area), a mask may be applied to areas where the reinforcement is not desired at step 1580, leaving only the areas where reinforcement is desired exposed. At step 1590, heat and pressure may be applied to the article of footwear to melt the thermoplastic material in the first layer of the reactive region of each woven cell, thereby forming a hardened film-like covering in the exposed areas. An additional advantage of the reinforcement is the “locking down” of the woven cells in the reinforced areas (no stretch in the reinforced areas). Although this reinforcing step is discussed as happening after the one or more articles of footwear are constructed, it is contemplated that this reinforcement step may be performed prior to lasting the one or more upper forms when they are still in their “flat” configuration (e.g., substantially planar). Then the construction of the one or more articles of footwear may be completed by putting finishing touches as indicated at step 1575.
It is to be noted that prior to treating the fabric/textile with steam to induce the dimensional change in the third weft yarn, the fabric/textile in accordance with aspects herein may be limited in stretch (relative to post steaming) and its modulus of elasticity may be determined by the first and second weft yarns. However, after inducing the dimensional change in the third weft yarn, it can be deduced that the overall size of the fabric portion and in particular the size of the fabric portion in the weft direction may be diminished. As described above, because of the dimensional change in the third weft yarn in the third layer of the reactive region, the stable second layer and first layer of the reactive region may become bent or raised (e.g., forming a dimensionally textured surface on the textile) because these layers do not undergo a dimensional change (shrinkage) at least to the same extent/degree as the third weft yarn, thereby creating a textured surface with grooves (non-reactive regions and perimeters) and ridges (reactive regions). Further, because the first, second, and third weft yarns are separated into their own layers in the reactive regions, the fabric/textile may become stretchable and its modulus of elasticity may be defined, in part, by the modulus of elasticity of the third yarn. As such, the modulus of elasticity of the overall woven fabric/textile may be reduced or in other words, the modulus of elasticity of the woven fabric/textile prior to inducing the dimensional change in the third layer may be greater than the modulus of elasticity of the overall woven fabric/textile after the dimensional change is induced in the third layer and more specifically in the third yarn. Furthermore, because the first and second layers of the reactive region of each woven cell are inherently not as stretchy (i.e., have a higher modulus of elasticity than the third layer) as the third layer, the amount of stretch in the weft direction of the woven fabric/textile may be limited by the stretchiness of the first and second layers of the reactive region in each of the woven cells. In other words, the amount of stretch of the fabric/textile in the weft direction (i.e., the extent to which the fabric/textile can stretch) may be limited or “locked” by the first layer and/or the second layer because once the first layer and/or the second layer of the dynamic region are returned to their original state (are straightened), the overall fabric/textile will not stretch anymore.
Specifically, as it can be seen in the fabric/textile piece 1600, the zonal characteristics of the fabric are provided by having woven cells 1680 with the larger reactive regions being enclosed by a perimeter 1682 that is configured as a non-reactive region, near the toe ends 1630; and the woven cells 1690 with the smaller reactive regions being enclosed by a perimeter portion 1692 that is continuous with or “blended in” with a non-reactive region 1694, near the heel ends 1640. In other words, instead of the reactive region enclosing a non-reactive region within each cell, as shown above with respect to the fabric/textile piece 300 in
The article of footwear 1700 comprises a sole 1740 that may be constructed from resilient materials that are typically employed in the construction of soles of athletic shoes. The sole 1740 can be constructed with an outsole, a midsole, and an insert, as is conventional. The sole 1740 comprises a bottom surface that functions as the traction surface of the shoe, and an opposite top surface (not shown.) The size of the article of footwear 1700 comprises a length that extends from a rear sole heel end 1742 to a front toe end 1744 of the sole 1740. The sole 1740 comprises a width that extends between a medial side (not shown) and a lateral side 1746.
The footwear upper 1710 may be secured to the sole 1740 and extend upwardly from the sole 1740, such as from the sole top surface (not shown.) The footwear upper 1710 may be constructed of a flexible material, such as the woven materials described above. The heel or quarter area 1730 extends upwardly from the sole 1740 to an ankle edge 1750 defining, in part, an ankle opening 1752. The ankle opening 1752 provides access to the shoe interior.
From the heel or quarter area 1730, the footwear upper 1710 has a medial side portion (not shown) and an upper lateral side portion 1770 that extend along the respective sole medial side and the sole lateral side 1746. The upper medial side portion extends upwardly from the sole medial side to an upper medial side edge (not shown). The upper lateral side portion 1770 extends upwardly from the sole lateral side 1746 to an upper lateral side edge 1772. As illustrated in the figures, the upper medial side edge and the upper lateral side edge 1772 extend rearwardly from opposite sides of a toe box area 1720 forming, in combination, an upper edge 1774. The length of the upper medial side edge and the upper lateral side edge 1772 define a forefoot opening 1760 in the footwear upper 1710 that opens to the shoe interior 1702.
The toe box area 1720 of the footwear upper 1710 is connected between the upper medial side portion and the upper lateral side portion 1770 and encloses a portion of the shoe interior 1702 adjacent the toe box area 1720. The upper medial side edge and the upper lateral side edge 1772 extend rearwardly from the toe box area 1720.
A plurality of lacing mechanisms 1790 are provided on the upper medial side portion and on the upper lateral side portion 1770. The lacing mechanisms may be an aperture through which a string or lace 1792 is intended to pass. Additional lacing mechanisms are also contemplated such as hooks, loops, integrated fibers/strings, and the like. For example, the lacing mechanisms 1790 may be lacing openings that are typically occupied by a portion of a fastener, such as lacing that close the footwear upper 1710 over the forefoot opening 1760 of the article of footwear 1700. The lacing mechanisms 1790 may be eyelet or grommet style aperture, string or ribbon loops, and the like. The lacing mechanisms 1790 are arranged in lines along the upper medial side portion and the upper lateral side edge 1772, as is conventional. As illustrated in the figures, the lacing mechanisms 1790 may extend substantially the entire length of the upper medial side edge and the upper lateral side edge 1772. However, it is also contemplated that the footwear upper may not comprise forefoot opening 1760, but rather, be enclosed such as in an article of footwear resembling a loafer type construction.
The footwear upper 1710 includes a vamp 1780 or a throat positioned rearwardly of the toe box area 1720, and an optional tongue 1782 may extend rearwardly from the vamp 1780 through the forefoot opening 1760. The optional tongue 1782 may extend along the lengths of the upper medial side portion and the upper lateral side portion 1770 to a distal end of the tongue near an ankle opening 1752. The length and\width of the tongue may position the tongue side edges beneath the upper medial side portion and the upper lateral side portion 1770, and may optionally extend the tongue over the forefoot opening 1760 of the article of footwear 1700.
The fabric/textile in
Further, once formed, the article of footwear shown in
The aspects described throughout this specification are intended in all respects to be illustrative rather than restrictive. Upon reading the present disclosure, alternative aspects will become apparent to ordinary skilled artisans that practice in areas relevant to the described aspects without departing from the scope of this disclosure. In addition, aspects of this technology are adapted to achieve certain features and possible advantages set forth throughout this disclosure, together with other advantages which are inherent. It will be understood that certain features and subcombinations are of utility and may be employed without reference to other features and subcombinations. This is contemplated by and is within the scope of the claims.
Since many different products may be made of the woven material described herein, without departing from the scope thereof, it is to be understood that all matter herein set forth or shown in the accompanying drawings is to be interpreted as illustrative and not in a limiting sense.
This application claims priority to U.S. Provisional Application No. 62/420,982, entitled, “WOVEN FOOTWEAR UPPER,” filed on Nov. 11, 2016, and U.S. Provisional Application No. 62/432,336, entitled, “WOVEN FOOTWEAR UPPER,” filed on Dec. 9, 2016. The entireties of the aforementioned applications are incorporated by reference herein.
Number | Date | Country | |
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62420982 | Nov 2016 | US | |
62432336 | Dec 2016 | US |