This application is related to and claims the benefit of French Patent Application Number 2213878 filed on Dec. 19, 2022 and French Patent Application Number 2301115 on Feb. 6, 2023, the entire contents of both of said applications are herein incorporated by reference.
The present disclosure relates to the field of make-up cosmetic product and skin care product applicators. The present disclosure relates more particularly to flocked-texture applicators for applying in particular lip gloss or lip oil and a concealer, and possibly mascara. The disclosure also relates to a method for manufacturing such an applicator.
The applicators in particular for lip gloss or lip oil generally have a flock formed of bristles bonded to a support. Such a flock requires several manufacturing steps to assemble parts made of different materials. As a result, the applicator is difficult to recycle.
The patent application US2019/0343262 describes a cosmetic applicator including a hard plastic frame and silicone bristles radially arranged and covering the external periphery of the frame. Due to the fragility of the bristles, this applicator cannot be manufactured by conventional injection molding, but by vacuum injection molding.
The patent application US2008/0083421 describes a mascara applicator likely to be molded in one piece by injection including a rod, a hub formed at the end of the rod, and members provided with bristles extending radially from the hub. The members are intended to be kept folded along the rod, the bristles on the members extending substantially radially from the axis of the rod.
The patent application US2021/0323205 describes a method for manufacturing a cosmetic applicator comprising a step of injection molding a thermoplastic material. This molding step involves a mold whose inner surface has micro-engraved cavities intended to form a flock.
The formation of flock or bristles by molding leads to numerous defects during molding and demolding in particular due to the very fine shapes of the flock or the bristles.
The patent application FR 3 091 983 also describes a method for manufacturing a cosmetic product applicator comprising steps of mixing the thermoplastic material with an inert gas and injecting the mixture into a mold, to obtain a microporous surface structure.
It is therefore desirable to propose a cosmetic or skin care product applicator with a flocked texture that is effective, both in supporting the product, and in transferring it to the skin or to the eyelashes or eyebrows. It can also be desirable for the applicator to be easily manufactured, by injection molding of a thermoplastic elastomer material, and with the lowest possible rate of manufacturing defects.
Embodiments relate to an applicator for a cosmetic product on the skin or bristles, comprising an application member made of a thermoplastic elastomer material, the application member comprising: a core extending along a longitudinal axis, and application elements formed on the surface of the application member, each of the application elements having a top with a width greater than 35 μm and smaller than 450 μm.
Such an applicator has the advantage of being able to be produced only by molding, while having a flocked texture, which can be easily demolded due to the enlarged, substantially flat tops of the application elements.
According to one embodiment, the top of the application elements has a length larger than their width.
In this way, it is possible to obtain a surface having both more and less hydrophobic properties according to the relevant direction. The hydrophobic character can be adapted depending on the cosmetic product to be applied, simply by adjusting the dimensions of the tops and the distances between the tops of the application elements.
According to one embodiment, the top of the application elements have a rectangular shape, or the application elements have the shape of parallel ribs.
This arrangement allows combining hydrophilic and hydrophobic characters, capable of both sufficiently retaining the cosmetic product, and easily transferring the latter to the skin or the eyelashes.
According to one embodiment, the application elements have a width comprised between 40 and 400 μm.
These dimensions are particularly adapted to the function of applying a cosmetic product.
According to one embodiment, the application elements have a height comprised between 350 and 600 μm.
Such a depth allows retaining a sufficient quantity of cosmetic product, without disturbing the hydrophobic character of the relief formed by the application elements. Furthermore, the application elements can deform during the application and release the product accumulated between them.
According to one embodiment, the application elements, are spaced apart from each other by a distance comprised between one and two and a half times the width of the top of the application elements.
Such a distance allows retaining a sufficient quantity of the cosmetic product, while offering the required hydrophobic character.
According to one embodiment, the core has a circular or helical-shaped groove.
This groove allows retaining an additional quantity of cosmetic product.
According to one embodiment, the core comprises two drop-shaped portions arranged along the longitudinal axis, the two portions delimiting between them an annular groove.
This shape has a good ergonomic while allowing retaining an additional quantity of cosmetic product.
According to one embodiment, the application member comprises a plurality of parts engaged on a rod of the applicator, the application elements being formed on all or part of the surface of the parts.
According to one embodiment, each of the parts comprises two fin-shaped portions connected to each other by a portion forming a hub in which the rod of the applicator is engaged, the fin-shaped portions forming fins about the rod of the applicator.
According to one embodiment, each of the parts has the shape of a star with a hub in which the rod of the applicator is engaged and radial elements extending radially about the hub.
Embodiments may also relate to a method for manufacturing a cosmetic applicator as previously defined, the method comprising a step of molding a thermoplastic elastomer material, using a mold complementary in shape to that of the applicator, having a plurality of cavities complementary in shape to those of the application elements of the applicator.
The particular shape of the applicator with application elements having a top with a relatively large width, enables it to be manufactured in a single molding step, with a low risk of breakage of the application elements during demolding. As a result, the number of manufacturing defects is reduced and the cleaning operation of the mold which may be required to be performed between two molding operations is simplified.
According to one embodiment, the method comprises a step of manufacturing a mold, the cavities being formed using a femtosecond laser.
The properties of the surfaces formed by such a laser allow both obtaining an easy demolding with a low risk of breakage and molding surfaces having a good affinity for the cosmetic products to be applied.
Embodiments may also relate to a mold for manufacturing a cosmetic product applicator as previously defined, the mold comprising a molding surface having a plurality of cavities complementary in shape to those of the application elements of the applicator.
The present disclosure will be well understood using the following description of embodiments with reference to the appended figures, in which identical reference signs correspond to structurally and/or functionally identical or similar elements.
In the example of
According to an embodiment illustrated by
The shape of the application elements 14 with a wide top, has the advantage of being easy to demold, in particular by reducing the risk of breakage of the ends of the application elements in the mold reliefs.
According to one embodiment, the distance D1 between the application elements 14 is comprised between one and three times the width L1. According to one embodiment, the width L1 of the application elements 14 is comprised between 80 and 160 μm, and preferably comprised between 90 and 150 μm. The distance D1 between the application elements 14 is comprised between 80 and 160 μm, and preferably comprised between 90 and 150 μm. The maximum height H1 of the application elements 14 is comprised between 350 and 600 μm. In the direction of the ends of the core 13 along the longitudinal axis X, the application elements 14 may have a decreased height H1, as shown in
In the example of
According to one embodiment, the applicator 1 is manufactured in one piece using a mold, by injection of a thermoplastic elastomer (TPE) material.
According to one embodiment, the cavities 94 are made of the material forming the mold halves 9a, 9b using a femtosecond laser. Such a laser allows making a relief in a mold surface with sufficient accuracy to form the application elements 14, the lateral faces 17 of the application elements 14 being substantially perpendicular (to within 15°) to the surface 16 of the core 13. This technique for forming the cavities 94 also has the advantage of forming a relief and surfaces having a good affinity for the cosmetic products to be applied.
It should be noted that the enlarged and flat or substantially flat shape of the tops 15 of the application elements 14 reduces the risk of breakage during demolding, relative to sharp application elements. The cleaning operation of the mold between two molding operations is therefore simplified.
It should also be noted that the cavities 94 are directed perpendicular to the interface plane between the two mold halves and therefore can be easily produced by directing the laser perpendicular to this plane.
The applicator 1 can be made of a thermoplastic elastomer TPE such as SEBS (polystyrene-b-poly(ethylene-butylene)-b-polystyrene) and/or of a thermoplastic material having a hardness of around 30 shore A (to within + or −10%). The SEBS has the advantage of being pleasant to the touch and therefore suitable for contact with the skin.
Any other shape of the top of the application elements 14 may also be suitable as an elliptical shape, or a polygonal shape inscribed in a circle or in an ellipse.
Table 1 groups examples of top dimensions and distances between the tops and the angles A1 measured in the perpendicular directions X1 and X2, indicated in
In the case of the rectangular-shaped tops 65 (
Table 1 shows that the ribs (
In
It will be clear to those skilled in the art that the present disclosure is open to diverse variants and diverse applications. In particular, the disclosure is not limited to the previously described applicator shapes. Other applicator shapes may be suitable when the applicator has a relief with application elements having enlarged, substantially flat tops, likely to retain a cosmetic product and to transfer it to the skin or to the bristles (eyelashes, eyebrows).
Nor is the disclosure limited to an application member formed in one piece. Indeed, it may be envisaged to manufacture the application member by assembling several parts, for example by interlocking. These parts may include at least one surface on which application elements are formed. As previously, the application elements can have a top with a width greater than 35 μm and smaller than 450 μm. Each of these parts can be formed using a mold with a complementary shape and having a surface including cavities which can be produced using a femtosecond laser, to form the application elements. The different parts forming the core of the application member may or may not be identical.
According to an embodiment illustrated by
According to an embodiment illustrated by
According to one embodiment, the application elements 14, 64, 74 are formed on all or part of the faces of the parts 43. To this end, the corresponding faces of the molds allowing manufacturing the parts 43 may be treated using a femtosecond laser to form the cavities 94 at the desired locations. If required, a mirror system may be used to direct the laser beam on some faces of the mold, for example on the faces forming the thickness of the fins 44a, 44b. It should be noted that all parts 43 can be manufactured in a single molding step using a same mold comprising one molding cavity per part.
According to another embodiment illustrated by
According to one embodiment, the hub 45a-e, 45a′ of the parts 43, 43′ comprises axial ribs 47 formed inside the hub. The ribs 47 are intended to cooperate with slots with a complementary shape formed on the rod 41, 41′ of the applicator. Thus, the parts 43, 43′ can be introduced on the rod 41, 41′ only in a determined angular position about the axis X of the rod. This arrangement allows for example uniformly distributing the fins 44a, 44b, 44a′, 44b′ about the rod 41, 41′.
According to one embodiment, the hub 45a-e, 45a′ of the parts 43, 43′ comprises axial slots 47 formed on the outer face of the hub. These slots are intended to receive the internal edges of the other parts 43, 43′ when the latter are engaged on the rod 41, 41′ to form the applicator 4, 4′.
According to another embodiment illustrated by
According to one embodiment, the application elements are formed on all or part of the faces of the parts 53. To this end, the corresponding faces of the molds allowing manufacturing the parts 53 can be treated using a femtosecond laser to form the cavities 94 at the desired locations. If required, a mirror system can be used to direct the laser beam on some faces of the mold, for example on the faces forming the thickness of the radial elements 54. All parts 53 may have identical shapes, they can be manufactured using a same mold.
According to one embodiment, the hub 55 of the parts 53 comprises axial ribs 57 formed inside the hub. The ribs 57 are intended to cooperate with slots with a complementary shape formed on the rod 51 of the applicator 5. Thus, the parts 53 can be introduced on the rod 51 only in a determined angular position about the axis X of the rod. This arrangement allows for example aligning the free ends of the radial elements 54 along an axis parallel to the axis X of the rod 51, or arranging them differently, for example so as to distribute these ends along helices. It should be noted that the slots formed on the rod 51 are not necessarily aligned in the direction of the axis X, but can also follow a helical trajectory.
In addition, it may also be considered to mold the applicator or the different parts forming the applicator by injecting the thermoplastic material into the mold, mixed with an inert gas to obtain a foamy appearance.
Number | Date | Country | Kind |
---|---|---|---|
2213878 | Dec 2022 | FR | national |
2301115 | Feb 2023 | FR | national |