Patent Application
20160051025
Hair may be damaged by chemical treatments such as dyeing, or permanent waves, or by mechanical stresses such as untangling or blow-drying. The mechanical, morphological, and physicochemical properties of the surface of hair, in particular of the cuticle, i.e. the outer layer of hairs with a scaly structure, are modified thereby. In particular, during such treatments for stresses, scales of the cuticle become raised and their normally regular margins become ragged. Such deterioration can have several consequences. Firstly, hair becomes less smooth and less easy to untangle. Secondly, the active agents in a hair treatment composition, e.g. a conditioner, run the risk of being deposited in non-uniform manner on the hair. It can be desirable for active care agents to be deposited uniformly on the hair.
It is known to care for damaged hair by applying a care product thereon, e.g. including specific polymers such as silicones or polymers with cationic fillers. Nevertheless, the improvement to hair treated in this way is only temporary, since once the care product is no longer on the hair, e.g. after washing the hair one or more times, the hair returns to its original state.
EP 1 283 019 discloses an article such as a textured wipe with elements in relief e.g. comprising rubber or a polyolefin. The article is used to exfoliate the skin, for example.
EP 1 577 161 describes a rigid comb having teeth with ends that are textured to give them a certain amount of roughness so as to catch and remove nits present in the hair.
There exists a need to benefit from methods and kits enabling hair to be treated durably, in particular hair with surface damage.
Amongst other objects, the invention seeks to satisfy this need and it achieves this by a cosmetic treatment method for hair that comprises the following steps:
The steps of the method of the invention may be implemented in a single session, e.g. over a period of one hour. When the cosmetic treatment composition is applied to the hair prior to abrading it, the composition is still present while the hair is being abraded. When the composition is applied after the hair has been abraded, this application takes place immediately after the abrasion, during a single session, e.g. within a period of one hour or less.
Another object of the invention is to provide a method of treating hair that comprises the steps consisting in abrading the hair with a hair-care composition including abrasive solid particles of mean dimension greater than or equal to 50 micrometers (μm), in particular greater than or equal to 100 μm.
The invention also provides a method of treating hair comprising the step consisting in abrading the hair with a hair-care composition including abrasive solid particles of mean dimension greater than or equal to 50 μm, in particular greater than or equal to 100 μm, the abrasion treatment being performed mesh by mesh, the number of passes over a mesh being greater than five passes, in particular lying in the range 6 to 100, e.g. in the range 6 to 10.
The invention also provides a method of treating the hair, comprising the step of abrading the hair with a hair-care composition including abrasive solid particles of mean dimension greater than or equal to 50 μm, in particular greater than or equal to 100 μm, the method comprising the step consisting in subjecting the hair to post-treatment, after the treatment with the hair-care composition, the post-treatment being selected from applying a permanent wave, a straightening composition, a coloring composition, or a bleaching composition for hair.
The invention also provides a method of treating the hair to smooth the hair, the method comprising the steps consisting in abrading the hair with a hair-care composition including abrasive solid particles of mean dimension greater than or equal to 50 μm, in particular greater than or equal to 100 μm.
The invention also provides a method of treating the hair comprising the step of abrading the hair with a hair-care composition including abrasive solid particles of mean dimension greater than or equal to 50 μm, in particular greater than or equal to 100 μm, wherein the abrasive solid particles are at a content lying in the range 0.1% to 20%, in particular 5% to 20%, better 10% to 20%, better still 15% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and are of hardness greater than or equal to 3, better greater than or equal to 4, preferably greater than or equal to 5 on the Mohs scale.
The invention also provides a method of treating the hair comprising two steps consisting in abrading the hair with two hair-care compositions that are applied in succession, each including abrasive solid particles of mean dimensions greater than or equal to 50 μm, in particular greater than or equal to 100 μm, the mean dimensions of the solid particles of the two hair-care compositions being different.
The invention may enable hair to be prepared for hair-care post-treatment such as applying a conditioner, a color, a permanent wave, a straightening composition, a bleaching composition, or some other composition. The method may also include the step consisting in subjecting the hair to post-treatment, after being treated with the hair-care composition of the invention, the post-treatment being selected from applying a conditioner, straightening agent, a coloring composition or a bleaching composition for hair, this list not being limiting.
The invention may enable the surface of hair as defined by the cuticle to be smoothed.
The abrasion of hair as operated by implementing the invention may be more or less thorough, depending on the initial state of the hair and/or on the desired results.
To modulate the degree to which the hair is abraded, it is possible for example to vary the duration of hair abrasion. The abrasion may be relatively gentle and/or of short duration so as to avoid hairs breaking during subsequent mechanical stressing and treatment such as hair styling, for example.
By means of the invention, it is possible to make the hair visibly smoother and the effect of the treatment is durable. The hair may be cleared of any deposit that might be present on the surface thereof prior to abrasion, and the margins of scales in the cuticle may be made more regular.
Furthermore, after treatment, compositions for reinforcing certain properties of hair or for modifying the appearance of hair may penetrate more easily and more deeply into the abraded hair.
The hair may be abraded by applying abrasive particles thereto in various ways described below.
The solid particles may be selected from natural particles, in particular of mineral or vegetable origin, or from synthetic materials. The abrasive particles may be selected from the following, this list not being limiting:
The abrasive particles may optionally be soluble in water.
The abrasive particles may present a mean dimension lying in the range 10 nanometers (nm) to 800 μm, better in the range 50 nm to 500 μm. The term “dimension” in the meaning of the present invention should be understood as the greatest dimension of a particle. The term “mean dimension” in the meaning of the present invention should be understood as the dimension given by the statistical grain size distribution at half population, known as D50. Depending on the range of particles implemented, it may be determined by using a screen or by laser granulometry.
The abrasive particles may be of vegetable or synthetic origin and they may be of flat, spherical, elongate, polyhedral, or irregular shape. The abrasive particles may be derived for example from pumice stone powder grains, diamond powder, powdered stones of fruit, powdered coconut shells, microbeads, e.g. microbeads of alumina, glass, or polyamide, in particular nylon-6, or fibers, in particular polyamide fibers, or hard fibers of wood cellulose. The abrasive particles may be free of ceramic.
The hardness of the abrasive particles may be greater than or equal to 3, better greater than or equal to 4, in particular greater than or equal to 5, on the Mohs scale.
There follows a non-limiting table presenting various types of abrasive particles that are suitable for being used:
By way of example, the abrasion means comprise at least two facing surfaces, at least one of which is abrasive, the facing surfaces coming into contact with the hair during abrasion, and at least one of the facing surfaces acting on the hair by abrasion.
The roughness of the or each abrasive surface corresponds for example to the roughness of an abrasive surface having grain size lying in the range P12 to P2500, where roughness is defined using the standards ISO 6344-1, ISO 6344-2, and ISO 6344-3.
The abrasive surface(s) may comprise abrasive particles fastened on a medium. Under such circumstances, the abrasive particles may for example comprise a first material and they may be fastened on a medium that is constituted at least in part by a second material that is different from the first, at least in the portion of the medium that comes into contact with the abrasive particles.
The abrasive particles may be fastened to the medium by various means, for example they may be adhesively bonded to the medium or they may be dispersed within the medium in the form of a filler. The abrasive particles may be fastened to the medium in such a manner that the abrasive particles do not become detached from the medium during treatment.
A plurality of abrasive surfaces presenting different abrasion characteristics may be proposed together to the user, in particular in the same packaging. When they include abrasive particles, that may make it possible, for example, to enable the user to perform first treatment with relatively coarse particles followed by second treatment with finer particles.
All of the facing surfaces may be abrasive. This may serve to reduce the duration of the treatment and/or to treat the hair in more uniform manner. In a variant, only one of the surfaces need be abrasive, with the other surface(s) being non-abrasive. The or each non-abrasive surface, also referred to as a backing surface, may be used to apply the treatment composition to the hair, which composition may be a liquid, a gel, a cream, or a powder, for example.
By way of example, the backing surface may include flocking, a foam, or an elastomer, amongst others, and it may optionally be impregnated with the treatment composition. The backing surface may also present a surface state that encourages hair to slide in contact therewith, e.g. being provided with a coating of a material having a low coefficient of friction, e.g. polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), or it may be defined by a wall of a thermoplastic material including a fill of particles that encourage sliding, e.g. particles of graphite.
The backing surface may be impregnated with the composition before the abrasion treatment. The backing surface may also be fed with the composition continuously or discontinuously during treatment, for example the backing surface may communicate with a supply containing the treatment composition.
At least one hair, better the majority or all of the hair being treated may come into contact with the abrasive surface over a length of at least 5 millimeters (mm), and preferably of at least 10 mm.
The or each abrasive surface may optionally be plane when it comes into contact with the hair.
The above-mentioned facing surfaces may be the only facing surfaces that come into contact with the hair each time the method is implemented. The facing surfaces may be only two in number, optionally being parallel to each other.
The surfaces coming into contact with the hair may optionally be caused to move relative to one another during the abrasion treatment. All of the surfaces may be set into motion.
The relative motion between the facing surfaces and the hair may be generated by the person to whom the hair belongs or by a third party, e.g. a hairdresser. The relative motion may be generated manually or at least in part by motor-driven means, using a mechanical system.
The hair may be treated from the roots towards the ends, or otherwise.
The facing surface(s) define the face(s) of a medium.
The medium may be flexible, and for example it may comprise or be constituted by a woven fabric, a non-woven fabric, a paper, or a flexible polymer.
The medium may be in the form of a sheet having two opposite main faces. Only one of the faces need present abrasive properties. In a variant, the other face may also be abrasive. The abrasive properties of the two faces may then be identical or different.
The facing surfaces may form parts of two distinct media, or in a variant of a single medium that is folded so as to obtain at least the two surfaces.
The medium may optionally deform during treatment. A flexible medium may be suitable for deforming during treatment, e.g. in the hand, where such deformation may be useful, e.g. for entraining motion or manipulating more easily and/or better controlling the amount of force that is applied. The flexibility of the medium may also be useful for shaping a mesh for treatment.
In a variant, the abrasive surface(s) may form part of a medium that is hard, e.g. having a modulus of elasticity that is greater than or equal to 1 gigapascal (GPa), preferably greater than or equal to 4 GPa.
By way of example, the medium may comprise a metal, a ceramic, a mineral glass, or a thermoplastic material, in particular a polyolefin, e.g. high density polyethylene.
The medium may comprise a plurality of portions, having a first portion presenting abrasive properties and a second portion to which the first portion is fastened, optionally in removable manner.
The medium may be arranged to be easy for a user to grip, e.g. being in the form of a glove, a glove finger, or being made with a handle or with a grip.
The medium may be a heater and/or vibrator medium. By way of example, the medium may enable the surface of the hair to be raised to a temperature greater than or equal to 40° C.
The medium may optionally be porous.
Each medium may be for single use, or alternatively may be suitable for using several times over. The media may optionally be individually packaged, and they may optionally be detachable from one another. The medium may be packaged while impregnated with the treatment composition, in a dry or a wet state.
A hard medium may comprise a structure that is arranged to confer abrasive properties to the abrasive surface, in particular it may comprise a sintered structure.
The abrasive surface may include roughnesses, e.g. spikes, crenellations, or scratches.
When one or more abrasive surfaces are set into motion by a mechanical system, the system may be arranged to cause the abrasive surface to vibrate or to cause it to move in a single direction.
The vibration of the abrasive surface may have an amplitude that is less than or equal to 20 mm, better less than or equal to 10 mm, better still less than or equal to 5 mm. The vibration of the abrasive surface may have a frequency lying in the range 1 hertz (Hz) to 10,000 Hz, i.e. one go-and-return reciprocation per second to 10,000 reciprocations per second, better in the range 2 Hz to 1000 Hz, better still in the range 5 Hz to 500 Hz.
While hair is being abraded, it is possible for example to cause the amplitude and/or the frequency of the vibration of the abrasive surface to vary and/or to cause the orientation of the vibration to vary, for example the vibration may be in a longitudinal direction substantially parallel to the hair or in a transverse direction substantially perpendicular to the hair.
In a variant, or in addition, the abrasive surface may move and be driven in rotation by the mechanical system. By way of example, the speed of rotation may be modulated while abrading the hair. The rotary motion may be rotary motion about one axis of rotation, e.g. extending generally perpendicularly to the root-to-end length, or it may be motion that is more complex, e.g. comprising a combination of motions about distinct axes of rotation.
By way of example, the abrasive surface may be defined by a disk that moves in a plane of rotation about an axis that is perpendicular to the axis of the hair, the various regions of the abrasive surface coming successively into contact with the hair during a rotation.
The abrasive surface may also be defined by a strip that moves around a single axis by describing a circular path, or about two axes, e.g. two mutually parallel axes, e.g. describing an elliptical path.
The relative speed between the hair being treated and the abrasive surface may for example lie in the range 0.005 meters per second (m/s) to 10 m/s, preferably in the range 0.01 m/s to 3 m/s, better in the range 0.02 m/s to 0.5 m/s, during treatment.
The duration of the abrasion of a portion of hair may lie for example in the range 1 millisecond (ms) to several minutes, and in particular may lie in the range 0.1 seconds (s) to 60 s, which duration may depend for example on the intensity of the abrasion and on the state of the hair.
While performing the method of the invention, the hair may be held while it is being abraded. For example, it may be held in the hand or with the help of a device for applying traction. The traction exerted on the hair may be measured during treatment so as to control said traction and give it a predefined value and/or prevent it exceeding a predefined traction threshold.
Pressure may be exerted on the hair in contact with the abrasive surface. This may serve to improve the effectiveness of the abrasion. The pressure exerted on the hair may for example lie in the range 1 pascal (Pa) to 1,000,000 Pa, better in the range 100 Pa to 100,000 Pa, preferably in the range 500 Pa to 50,000 Pa.
The mechanical system may include an electric, hydraulic, or pneumatic motor, an engine, or other drive means.
The mechanical system is preferably portable.
The mechanical system that sets one or more of the abrasive surfaces into motion may form part of an appliance. When the abrasion is performed by vibrating abrasive surfaces, the abrasive surface(s) may be set into vibration by means of at least one vibration source that may be arranged in various ways. For example, the vibration source may be arranged within the appliance so as to cause the entire appliance to vibrate, with the vibration source being located, for example, close to the abrasive surface, e.g. in a branch of the appliance. By way of example, such a vibration source may comprise an eccentric flyweight driven in rotation by an electric motor at a speed that may be constant or variable, as a function of whether it is desired to have a frequency of vibration that is constant or variable. The orientation of the axis of rotation of the motor may enable the direction of vibration to be selected. When the vibration source is constituted by a flyweight driven in rotation by an electric motor, the abrasive surface(s) may vibrate with the same amplitude as the portions of the appliance that supports them.
The vibration source may also be placed on the appliance in such a manner as to drive at least one abrasive surface in motion relative to a portion that supports it. For example, an abrasive surface may be mounted so as to be capable of sliding between two extreme positions and the vibration source may cause the abrasive surface to reciprocate relative to the portion that supports it, e.g. by means of a crank system that transforms rotary motion of an electric motor into oscillating axial motion of the abrasive surface. The frequency of oscillation of the abrasive surface depends on the speed of rotation of the motor, which speed of rotation may be constant or adjustable by the user.
The appliance may include a single oscillating abrasive surface, or in a variant two facing abrasive surfaces that may oscillate in the same direction or in opposite directions, or that may oscillate independently of each other, at the same frequency or at different frequencies, with the same amplitude or with different amplitudes.
The mechanical system may comprise a piezoelectric transducer or a motor provided with an eccentric flyweight in order to create vibration of the abrasive surface.
The appliance may also be an appliance that enables abrasion to be performed by moving the abrasive surface in a single direction. Under such circumstances, the abrasive surface medium may be a strip that is moved by at least one rotary shaft and possibly by a second shaft, that is optionally rotary.
The abrasive surface medium may for example comprise a disk that pivots about a rotary shaft.
The travel speed of the abrasive surface medium may be variable and it may be adjusted by a suitable device.
The mechanical system may include an electrical, hydraulic, or pneumatic motor, an engine, or other drive means.
The appliance, regardless of whether it operates in vibration or by moving in a single direction, may include a suction system to recover abrasive particles and/or particles or deposits detached from the hair during abrasion thereof. By way of example, the suction system may comprise a fan and a filter, and/or a pump and a filter, and/or a liquid recovery system, e.g. comprising one or more oils that collect the particles, and/or an electrostatic system that attracts the particles onto a surface by creating a potential field.
The appliance may include at least one abrasive or non-abrasive surface that is pierced by holes so as to enable the abrasive particles and/or particles detached from the hair to be sucked through these holes, which holes may open out at or close to the hair being treated.
The appliance may enable the hair to be abraded while simultaneously applying the treatment composition. The appliance may serve to deposit the composition on the hair, e.g. by means of an applicator element placed facing the abrasive surface. The composition may be taken to a dispenser orifice by any means, e.g. by gravity, capillarity, or by means of a pump, e.g. an electric pump or a manual pump driven by the user. The applicator element carried by the appliance may also be pre-impregnated with the treatment composition and may be put into place on the appliance in the pre-impregnated state, or the appliance may be arranged to enable it to be soaked in the treatment composition, either completely or after removing a removable portion that includes the applicator element. The appliance may also include a container having a flexible wall against which the user may press in order to force the composition to flow towards the hair.
The appliance may include a heater system, e.g. in order to shape the hair after abrasion.
By way of example, the appliance may present two surfaces, at least one of which may be abrasive, and between which it is possible to insert the hair for treatment. When in a closed position, the surfaces may be arranged to be suitable for holding a mesh of hair, and to be capable of releasing said mesh when in an open position. The appliance may include means for controlling the pressure of one surface against the other when in the closed position. For example, the control means may comprise a controllable spring such as a blade, a spiral, an elastically deformable material, and/or an abutment, and/or an electronic sensor suitable for triggering an audible or visible alarm when the pressure is excessive.
The appliance may include an audible or visible indicator for informing the user when a sufficient number of passes have been performed, e.g. in order to avoid abrading the hair excessively.
In a variant, the appliance may include an element such as a small wheel, or any other movement sensor, for example, serving to enable the appliance to count the number of passes over the hair.
Independently of the above-described abrasive surface(s), the abrasion means may be configured so as to project abrasive particles onto the hair in order to abrade it. Under such circumstances, the abrasive particles are free and they are not fastened on a medium.
The abrasive particles may be projected in the form of at least one jet.
A jet of solid particles may be projected onto the hair at a particle mass flow rate lying in the range 1 milligram per second (mg/s) to 25 grams per second (g/s), and preferably in the range 10 mg/s to 10 g/s.
A jet of solid particles may be projected into the hair under propulsion from a liquid or gaseous vector fluid. The volume flow rate of the vector fluid, gas or, liquid, may lie in the range 50 microliters per second (μL/s) to 4 liters per second (L/s), and preferably lies in the range 500 μL/s to 2 L/s.
As a liquid fluid, mention may be made in particular of water.
As a gaseous fluid, mention may be made in particular of air.
The jet of particles optionally associated with a fluid may be delivered under pressure. Its pressure preferably lies in the range 2 bars to 50 bars, better in the range 3 bars to 20 bars, and still more preferably in the range 3 bars to 15 bars.
Preferably, the fluid is a fluid under pressure. Still more preferably, the fluid is compressed air.
The speed of the particles at the moment of impact may, for example, lie in the range 0.01 m/s to 750 m/s, and preferably in the range 0.1 m/s to 100 m/s. Provision may be made for it to be possible to modify the above-mentioned flow rate. For example, abrasion may begin at a high flow rate, and subsequently abrasion may be terminated at a lower flow rate so as to avoid excessively abrading the hair.
Flow rate adjustment may be manual, being performed by the user, or it may be performed by a processor device, e.g. as a function of the amount of time that has elapsed since the beginning of treatment.
The jet of solid particles as projected onto the hair may present a width extending transversely to the jet contacting the hair that lies in the range 10 μm to 4 centimeters (cm), better in the range 50 μm to 8 mm, preferably in the range 100 μm to 2 mm.
On arrival in the zone where the jet impacts against the hair, the section of the jet may lie in the range 0.0001 square millimeters (mm2) to 8 square centimeters (cm2), and preferably in the range 1 mm2 to 1 cm2.
A plurality of jets may be sent towards the hair. These jets may be parallel, diverging, or converging. The impact zones of the jets may optionally overlap, e.g. being substantially touching. At least two jets may be used for treating two opposite sides respectively of a mesh of hair.
The section of the jet(s) may optionally be circular.
Within a jet, the distribution of particles may be uniform or otherwise.
The jet may be solid or hollow.
The vector fluid may convey not only particles, but where appropriate also at least one hair treatment compound, in particular a compound selected from:
The vector fluid may thus constitute a hair treatment composition.
The particles may also be projected towards the surface for treatment without a vector fluid, e.g. by being impacted against a vibrating surface, e.g. a sonotrode. The particles may also be magnetized and set into vibration by an electromagnetic field.
It may be possible to modify the section of the jet, e.g. while abrasion is taking place, so as to treat a mesh that is narrower or a small zone, or on the contrary a mesh that is thicker or a wider zone of the hair, for example. The mass flow rate and/or the section of the jet may be modulated simultaneously or independently, for example.
Mechanical, pneumatic, hydraulic, or electromechanical means may be used for imparting the required speed to the particles.
The jet of particles may be delivered by a nozzle.
The jet may be delivered by a nozzle that is optionally movable, e.g. a nozzle that is driven with reciprocating or rotary motion.
By way of example, the abrasion means may comprise a hair treatment appliance comprising:
The particle projection system may be arranged to project the particles together with a vector fluid under pressure. By way of example, the particle projection system may include or be connected to a compressor or a suction pump arranged to propel the solid particles with a flow of air.
The particle projection system may include a solid particle feed nozzle configured so that the solid particles are projected into the inside of the enclosure.
The appliance may include a supply of solid particles for being projected against the hair in order to abrade it.
In order to recover abrasive particles and/or particles or deposits detached from the hair during abrasion thereof, the appliance may include a suction system. By way of example, the suction system may comprise a fan and a filter, and/or a pump and a filter, and/or a liquid recovery system, e.g. comprising one or more oils that collect particles, and/or an electrostatic system that attracts particles onto a surface by creating a potential field. When the appliance includes a suction system, it may also include a container for containing used particles and deposits that have been sucked up by the suction system. The suction may take place inside the enclosure.
The appliance may include means for combining particles inside the enclosure so as to reduce losses of particles leaving the enclosure. By way of example, such confinement means may comprise a flexible slot or a comb having teeth that are close together with the mesh of hair passing therethrough, and/or a confinement system that operates by projecting compressed air so as to return particles back towards the enclosure at the openings through which the hair passes.
The appliance may serve simultaneously to abrade hair and to apply a cosmetic treatment composition.
The appliance may include a heater system, e.g. in order to shape the hair after abrasion.
The enclosure may have an open position in which it is possible to place a portion of a mesh of hair therein, and a closed position in which the hair may be abraded. By way of example, the enclosure may comprise two shells that are secured to each other in at least one zone, for example, but that are movable relative to each other so as to be capable of taking up an open, first configuration and a closed, second configuration in which the two shells are secured to each other in at least two zones.
The enclosure may present a cylindrical shape that is open at both ends of the cylinder so as to allow a mesh of hair to pass therethrough. The empty volume of the enclosure for receiving the hair may present a section that is circular, rectangular, oval, or other.
While abrasion is taking place, the enclosure may be moved, e.g. by the user, along the mesh of hair being treated, e.g. from the roots towards the ends of the hair, without abrasion being interrupted so as to treat the mesh of hair over its entire length, for example, or at least over a fraction of its length that is greater than the length of the enclosure. In a variant, the appliance may require abrasion to be interrupted in order to move the enclosure. Under such circumstances, abrasion may take place inside the enclosure without moving the enclosure along the hair while the hair is being impacted by the particles.
The enclosure may include portions in relief, in particular teeth, that are arranged to enable the hair to be combed.
Hair-Care Composition with Abrasive Particles
Independently from the above, the abrasion means may include a hair-care composition containing abrasive particles, which composition is applied to the hair so as to abrade it.
Under such circumstances, the abrasive particles may be of mean size greater than or equal to 50 μm, in particular greater than or equal to 100 μm. The abrasive particles may have a mean size less than or equal to 500 μm, or better less than or equal to 300 μm.
The capillary composition may include abrasive solid particles at a concentration lying in the range 0.1% to 20%, in particular 5% to 20%, better 10% to 20%, better still 15% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
In addition to solid particles, the hair-care composition may include one or more additives.
The hair-care composition may also include one or more additional surfactants such as surfactants that are anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic, or non-ionic.
The surfactant(s) is/are preferably selected from non-ionic surfactants. Non-ionic surfactant agents are compounds that are themselves well known (in this respect see in particular “Handbook of surfactants” by M. R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178), and in the context of the present invention the nature of the surfactants is not critical. Thus, they may be selected in particular from alcohols, alpha-diols, and polyethoxyl and polypropoxyl alkylphenols having fatty chains containing 8 to 18 atoms of carbon, for example, with the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups lying in particular in the range 2 to 50, this list not being limiting. Mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide, condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide on fatty alcohols; polyethoxyl fatty amines preferably having 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, polyglycerol fatty amides having on average 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular having 1.5 to 4 glycerol groups; fatty acid esters of oxyethylene sorbitan having 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; fatty acid esters of sucrose, fatty acid esters of polyethyleneglycol, alkylpolyglycosides, derivatives of N-alkyl glucamine, amine oxides such as (C10-C14) amine alkyl oxides or N-acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides.
The non-ionic surfactant(s) may be present in the hair-care composition at a concentration lying in the range 0.1% to 25% by weight, preferably in the range 1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Concerning amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, mention may be made, and without any intention of being limited thereto, of aliphatic secondary or tertiary amine derivatives in which the aliphatic radical is a linear or branched chain having 8 to 18 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-soluble anionic group (e.g. carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate, or phosphonate); mention may also be made of (C8-C20) alkyl betaines, sulfobetaines, (C8-C20) alkyl (C1-C6) amidoalkyl betaines, or (C8-C20) alkyl (C1-C6) amidoalkyl sulfobetaines.
Amongst amine derivatives, mention may be made of the products sold under the name Miranol, as described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,528,378 and 2,781,354 and classified in the 1982 3rd edition of the CTFA dictionary under the names amphocarboxyglycinates and amphocarboxypropionates having the following respective structures:
R2—CONHCH2CH2—N(R3)(R4)(CH2COO—)
in which:
R2 designates an alkyl radical of an R2—COOH acid present in hydrolyzed coprah oil, a heptyl, nonyl, or undecyl radical, R3 designates a beta-hydroxyethyl group, and R4 designates a carboxymethyl group; and
R2′—CONHCH2CH2—N(B)(C)
in which:
B represents —CH2CH2OX′;
C represents —(CH2)2—Y′ with z=1 or 2;
X′ designates the group —CH2CH2—COOH or a hydrogen atom;
Y′ designates —COOH or the —CH2CHOH—SO3H radical; and
R2′ designates an alkyl radical of an R9—COOH acid present in coprah oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl radical, in particular a C7, C9, C11, or C13 radical, a C17 alkyl radical and its iso form, an unsaturated C17 radical.
These compounds are classified in the 1993, 5th edition of the CTFA dictionary under the names: disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium ocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid, disodium cocoamphocarboxyl ethyl hydroxypropyl sulfonate.
By way of example, mention may be made of cocoamphodiacetate sold under the trade name concentrated Miranol® C2M by the supplier Rhodia Chimie.
Concerning anionic surfactants, mention may be made in non-limiting manner of the salts of the following compounds (and in particular alkaline salts, in particular of sodium, ammonium salts, amine salts, aminoalcohol salts, or magnesium salts): alkylsulfates, alkylethersulfates, alkylamidoethersulfates, alkylarylpolethersulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; alkylsulfonates, alkylphosphates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, α-olefin-sulfonates, paraffin-sulfonates; (C6-C24) alkyl sulfosuccinates, (C6-C24) alkyl ethersulfosuccinates, (C6-C24) alkyl amidesulfosucccinates; (C6-C24) alkyl sulfoacetates; (C6-C24) acyl sarcosinates, and (C6-C24) alkyl glutamates. It is also possible to use esters of (C6-C24) alkyl carboxylic polyglycosides such as alkylglycoside citrates, alkylpolyglycoside tartrates, and alkylpolyglycoside sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfosuccinamates; acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, the alkyl or acyl radicals of all of the various compounds preferably having 12 to 20 carbon atoms, and the aryl radicals, preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group. Amongst anionic surfactants that are also usable, mention may also be made of the salts of fatty acids such as the salts of oleic, ricinoleic, palmitic, and stearic acids, acids of coprah oil, or of hydrogeneated coprah oil; acyl-lactylates with an acyl radical having 8 to 20 carbon atoms. It is also possible to use alkyl D galactoside uronic acids and their salts, polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24) alkyl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24) alkyl aryl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24) alkyl amido ether carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular such as those having 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene oxide groups, and mixtures thereof.
The anionic surfactants possibly present are preferably soft anionic surfactants.
Concerning soft anionic surfactants, mention may be made in particular of the following compounds and their salts, together with mixtures thereof:
Most particularly, use be made of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids such as for example the (4.5 OE) lauryl ether carboxylic acid sold for example under the name Akypo RLM 45 CA by KAO.
If such anionic or amphoteric surfactants are present, then their content lies in the range 0.1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the hair-care composition, and more particularly 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the hair-care composition does not contain any sulfate type anionic detergent surfactant (alkysulfate or alkylether sulfate, alkylamidoether sulfate). If it does contain any, its content is such that the weight ratio of alkyl sulfate or alkyl ether sulfate type anionic detergent over the sum of amphoteric, zwitterionic, soft anionic, and non-ionic surfactants is preferably less than or equal to 1, and more particularly less than or equal to 0.75, and still more preferentially less than or equal to 0.5.
The hair-care composition may also include additives that are conventional in the field such as, for example, additives selected from the following non-exhaustive list such as: reducing agents, oxidizing agents, sequestering agents, softening agents, anti-foaming agents, hydrating agents, emollient agents, alkalinizing agents, plasticizing agents, sunscreens, direct or oxidation dyes, fragrances, peptizing agents, preservatives, optionally-fixing polymers, proteins, vitamins, antidandruff agents, anti-hair loss agents, optionally-associative thickening polymers, fatty amides, fatty ethers, fatty alcohols, etc.
The above-mentioned additives are generally present in quantities lying for each of them in the range 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
It should be observed that if the hair-care composition includes one or more thickening agents, their content may lie in the range 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the weight of the hair-care composition, preferably 0.01% to 3% by weight relative to the weight of the hair-care composition.
The hair-care composition may include one or more conditioning agents.
When the hair-care composition contains at least one conditioning agent, it may be selected from synthetic oils such as poly-α-olefins, fluorinated oils, fluorinated waxes, fluorinated gums, esters of carboxylic acids, cationic polymers, cationic surfactants, silicones, mineral, vegetable, or animal oils, ceramides, pseudoceramides, and mixtures thereof.
Amongst cationic polymers that are suitable for use, it is preferred to use ether derivatives of quaternary cellulose such as the products sold under the name JR 400 by the supplier Amerchol, cationic cyclopolymers, in particular homopolymers or copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride sold under the names Merquat® 100, Merquat® 500, and Merquat® S by the supplier Nalco, cationic polysaccharides such as guar gums modified by a salt of 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium, quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, and mixtures thereof.
Amongst cationic surfactants, mention may be made in particular of the following (this list not being limiting): primary, secondary, and tertiary fatty amine salts, optionally polyoxyalkylenated; quaternary ammonium salts such as tetraalkylammonium, alkylamidoalkyl-trialkylammonium, trialkylbenzylammonium, trialkylhydroxyalkylammonium, or alkylpyridinium chlorides or bromides; derivatives of imidazoline; or oxides of cationic amines.
As preferred cationic surfactants, mention may be made in particular of Quaternium-87, sold by the supplier Degussa under the reference Varisoft W 575 PG, behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride sold by the supplier Clariant under the reference Genamin KDMP.
The content of conditioning agents in the hair-care composition may lie in the range 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably in the range 0.005% to 5% by weight, and still more preferably in the range 0.01% to 3% by weight, of the total weight of the final composition.
The acceptable aqueous medium for hair may comprise water or a mixture of water and one or more organic solvents that are acceptable for cosmetics.
By way of example, the water content of the composition may be greater than or equal to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
As an organic solvent, mention may be made, for example, of preferably-saturated, linear or branched monoalcohols having 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol; aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol, phenylethyl alcohol; polyols or ethers of polyols such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl, and monobutyl ethers of ethyleneglycol, propyleneglycol or ethers thereof such as, for example, propyleneglycol monomethylether, butyleneglycol, dipropyleneglycol, (2-methyl 2,4-pentanediol) hexyleneglycol, neopentylglycol, and 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol; and also alkylethers of diethyleneglycol, in particular in a C1-C4 configuration, such as for example monoethylether or monobutylether of diethyleneglycol, alone or in a mixture.
The organic solvent(s) may be present in proportions lying for example in the range 1% to 40% approximately by weight relative to the total weight of the hair-care composition, and still more preferably in the range 5% to 30% approximately by weight.
The hair-care composition of the invention may be present in various galenic dosage forms such as a lotion, a shampoo, a gel, a cream, or a wax. The hair-care composition may be packaged in any type of container, optionally with an applicator. The container may contain a ball or a member serving in particular to make the hair-care composition uniform prior to being applied to the hair. The container containing the hair-care composition may have a capacity that is greater than or equal to 15 mL, in particular greater than or equal to 50 mL, or indeed 100 mL, and in particular it may be greater than or equal to 150 mL, e.g. lying in the range 15 mL to 500 mL.
The abrasive hair-care composition may impregnate a wipe.
The abrasive hair-care composition may be introduced in a stream of a vector fluid, e.g. by the Venturi effect, in order to be projected onto the hair.
In a particular implementation, the hair-care composition may be contained in a container of a comb or a brush that, for example, presents orifices at the base of its teeth or bristles serving to feed the composition and apply it to the hair.
The treatment composition may be a cosmetic, in particular a care product and/or a composition for coloring or bleaching the hair, a conditioner, a permanent wave, a straightening composition, or a composition for bleaching or coloring the hair.
The term “cosmetic composition” covers any “cosmetic product” as defined in the Jun. 14, 1993 Council Directive 93/35/EEC.
For a hair-care composition that includes abrasive particles, the treatment composition may constitute the hair-care composition. In a variant, the treatment composition may be applied to the hair before and/or after abrasion thereof using the hair-care composition.
By way of example, the treatment composition may be selected from the following, this list not being limiting:
The treatment composition may be applied prior to abrasion and may contribute to protecting the hair during abrasion so as to avoid excessive abrasion.
The treatment composition may form a sheath on the hair. The abrasion may remove the excess portion of this sheath, which is smoothed onto the hair. The material forming the sheath may thus remain in the hollow portions in relief of the hair.
A first treatment composition may be applied prior to abrasion, in particular a reducing composition, and a second treatment composition may be applied after abrasion, in particular an oxidizing composition, e.g. for the purpose of durably modifying the shape of the hair.
In an implementation of the invention that involves applying a treatment composition on the hair prior to putting it into contact with the abrasive surface, the treatment composition is applied to the hair which is then allowed to dry.
The composition may be packaged in any leaktight packaging means, e.g. defined by a bottle, a tube, a sachet, an ampoule, or any other container. The container containing the treatment composition may have a capacity greater than or equal to 15 milliliters (mL) in particular greater than or equal to 50 mL, or indeed 100 mL, in particular greater than or equal to 150 mL, e.g. lying in the range 15 mL to 500 mL. The packaging means may optionally be provided to be suitable for reclosing and may for example include a stopper capable of being fastened on a dispenser opening, or a valve that opens under pressure from the composition while it is being dispensed. The composition may also be packaged in a device that enables it to be dispensed by spraying.
The duration for which a portion of hair is abraded may for example lie in the range 1 ms to several minutes, in particular in the range 0.1 s to 60 s, which duration may depend for example on the intensity of the abrasion and the state of the hair.
The number of passes of the surfaces facing the hair, e.g. in a longitudinal direction from the roots towards the ends of the hair, may lie in the range 1 to 100, and in particular in the range 1 to 10.
The hair may be treated from the roots to the ends, or otherwise.
The abrasion may be performed transversely or longitudinally relative to the hair, in particular when the abrasion means comprise at least one abrasive surface or a hair-care composition.
In addition to the steps of abrading the hair and applying a hair-care composition, the method of the invention may also include one or more other steps.
The treatment method may be implemented after a step of characterizing the hair, e.g. examining it with the naked eye or with a magnifier device or using an instrument, e.g. by recording the sound produced by passing a comb through the hair using a sound meter or by optically determining the sheen of the hair. The hair may also be characterized by applying a chemical reaction to a sample of hair.
Prior to bringing the hair into contact with the abrasive surface(s), it may optionally be wetted. If the hair is wetted and/or if the method is implemented in a shower or a bath, and when the abrasion means comprise at least one abrasive surface, the medium may be suitable for withstanding water, e.g. not dispersing on contact with water. The medium may in particular be waterproof and/or non-porous.
The hair may be rinsed and/or combed after the abrasion treatment.
After abrading the hair, it is possible to monitor the extent to which it has been smoothed, e.g. by visual examination with the naked eye or using a magnifier device or using an instrument.
The method of the invention may also include the step consisting in heating the hair in contact with the abrasive surface to a temperature lying in the range 40° C. to 250° C., in particular in the range 60° C. to 210° C., e.g. during or after abrasion of the hair. For example, the hair may be heated after the abrasion so as to shape it.
The hair may be subjected to acoustic impacts, in particular using ultrasound or infrasound, e.g. before, during, or after abrasion of the hair, where appropriate. After the hair has been abraded, this may serve to detach solid particles and possibly other particles or deposits that are present on the hair.
It is also possible to subject the hair to treatment by exposure to an intense light beam, e.g. from a laser delivering pulses of short duration, where such pulses may serve to bleach the hair.
With one or more abrasive surfaces, the hair may be pressed against the abrasive surface(s) and said surface(s) may be the only surface(s) coming into contact with the hair each time the method is implemented.
The method of the invention need not include a combing step. In a variant, at least one of the surfaces may comprise or be constituted by a plurality of teeth or bristles or may have teeth or bristles secured thereto.
Independently, or in combination with the above, when used with a hair-care composition, the abrasion of the hair may take place immediately after the composition has been applied to the hair, e.g. within a period of less than one hour, in particular less than 30 minutes (min), or indeed 10 min after application of the hair-care composition to the hair. If rinsing is performed, it may take place quickly after the hair has been abraded. The time between applying the composition and rinsing the hair may for example be less than 4 hours (h), in particular less than 1 h, e.g. less than 20 min.
The step of abrading the hair may be performed by rubbing the hair with the bare hands and interposing between the hands and the hair at least one surface loaded with hair-care composition, e.g. a wipe or a towel, a glove, etc. The abrasion may be performed other than with the help of a comb or a brush.
By way of example, the hair may be abraded using at least one surface that is set into motion, in particular into vibration or rotation, by means of a mechanical system. The surface(s) may be set into vibration by means of at least one vibration source that may be arranged in various ways. By way of example, the vibration source may be arranged within the appliance to cause the entire appliance to vibrate, by way of example the vibration source may be located close to a surface that is to come into contact with the hair, e.g. in a branch of the appliance.
By way of example, the vibration source may comprise an eccentric flyweight driven in rotation by an electric motor at a speed that may be constant or variable depending on whether it is desired for the frequency of vibration to be constant or variable. The orientation of the axis of rotation of the motor may enable the direction of vibration to be selected.
With a vibration source constituted by a flyweight driven in rotation by an electric motor, the surface(s) for coming into contact with the hair may vibrate with the same amplitude as the portions of the appliance that support them. It is also possible for the vibration source to be located in the appliance in such a manner as to drive motion of at least one surface relative to a portion supporting that surface. For example, the surface that is to come into contact with the hair may be mounted so as to be capable of sliding between two extreme positions, and the vibration source may move said surface back and forth relative to the portion that supports it, e.g. by means of a crank system so as to transform rotary motion of an electric motor into axial oscillating motion of the surface. The frequency of oscillation of the surface depends on the speed of rotation of the motor, said speed of rotation being constant or adjustable by the user. The mechanical system may include a single oscillating surface, or in a variant it may have two facing surfaces capable of oscillating in the same direction or in opposite directions, or of oscillating independently of each other, at the same frequency or at different frequencies, with the same amplitude or with different amplitudes. The mechanical system may include an electric, hydraulic, pneumatic, or other motor. The mechanical system may comprise a piezoelectric transducer or a motor provided with an eccentric flyweight for creating vibration of the surface.
By way of example, the abrasion treatment using the hair-care composition may be performed, e.g. by hand, on a mesh by mesh basis, e.g. using two motions: a first motion referred to as “tangential” motion, i.e. extending substantially along the hair, e.g. from the roots to the ends, and a second motion referred to as “shear” motion, i.e. substantially orthogonally to the hair, in a direction transverse thereto. Both motions may be repeated several times, e.g. at least five times, e.g. ten times. In a variant, only one of the above-mentioned motions need be performed, and optionally repeated several times. Independently of the motion performed, the number of passes over a mesh may for example be greater than five passes, in particular it may lie in the range 6 to 100, e.g. in the range 6 to 10.
The duration of the abrasion by means of the composition including the solid particles may depend, for example, on the intensity desired for the abrasion and on the state of the hair.
The method of the invention may comprise two abrasion steps using two hair-care compositions that are applied in succession, each composition including abrasive solid particles, with the mean dimensions of the solid particles of the two hair-care compositions being different. For example, the mean dimension of the solid particles of the first hair-care composition to be applied may be greater than that of the solid particles of the second hair-care composition to be applied.
A single container may contain both hair-care compositions in separate packaging, or two separate containers may each contain one of the hair-care compositions.
Another mode of packaging may consist in a container containing a basic hair-care composition having no solid particles, which particles are packaged separately, e.g. in at least two separate compartments, depending on their grain size. Under such circumstances, before abrading the hair, the user selects which solid particles are to be mixed with the basic composition in order to form the first hair-care composition, with the mixing being performed by the user or within the container. After the first abrasion step, the user may perform a second abrasion step, this time mixing the other solid particles with the basic hair-care composition in order to form the second hair-care composition. Rinsing may be performed between and/or after the two abrasion steps. Abrasion with the hair-care composition need not modify the color of the hair.
The treatment method may be implemented after a step of characterizing the hair, e.g. by visually examining the hair with the naked eye or using a magnifier device or by means of an instrument, e.g. by recording the sound produced by moving a comb through the hair by using a sound meter or by optically determining the sheen of the hair. Characterization of the hair may also involve applying a chemical reagent to a sample of hair.
The method of the invention may include the step consisting in combing and/or rinsing the hair after applying the hair-care composition. The rinsing may be performed with water.
After abrading the hair, it is possible to monitor the degree of smoothing obtained, e.g. by visual examination with the naked eye or using a magnifying device or by means of an instrument.
The method of the invention may also include the step consisting in heating the hair before or after putting it into contact with the hair-care composition, e.g. to a temperature lying in the range 40° C. to 250° C., in particular in the range 60° C. to 220° C. By way of example, the hair may be heated after abrasion so as to be shaped, e.g. by blow-drying. By way of example, the hair may be heated by means of an iron, a mixture of liquid water and steam, or by means of a heating helmet.
The hair may be dried completely or partially.
In another of its aspects, independently or in combination with the above, the present invention also provides a hair treatment kit comprising:
The abrasion means may comprise at least one medium defining at least one abrasive surface as defined above that is set into motion manually or mechanically. The abrasion means may comprise one or more abrasive surfaces and/or an appliance including a mechanical system as described above. Where appropriate, all of the surfaces may be abrasive, and the abrasive surfaces may be as described above.
In a variant, the abrasion means may comprise an appliance for projecting abrasive particles against the hair, as described above.
In another variant, the abrasion means may comprise a hair-care composition as applied above.
The kit may further comprise at least one other medium and/or instructions mentioning, or explaining, hair abrasion treatment with the help of the kit.
The treatment composition may also be as defined above.
When present, the medium may be packaged separately from the composition, within the kit. In a variant, the medium may be pre-impregnated with the composition.
All of the parts of the kit may be proposed to the user within a common package, e.g. in a blister, a bag, a box, a case, or some other container.
The kit may also include a tool or advice on evaluating hair before and/or after treatment.
Independently or in combination with the above, the invention also provides a hair treatment kit comprising; within a packaging device:
The hair-care composition with abrasive particles may be as described above.
The abrasive solid particles may be at a concentration lying in the range 0.1% to 20%, in particular 5% to 20%, better 10% to 20%, better still 15% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the hair-care composition.
The post-treatment composition may be selected from a conditioner, a permanent wave, a straightening composition, and a composition for coloring or for bleaching the hair. The post-treatment composition may for example be selected from the above-described treatment compositions.
Independently or in combination with the above, the invention also provides a hair treatment kit comprising, within a packaging device:
The hair-care composition may be as described above.
The abrasive solid particles may be at a content lying in the range 0.1% to 20%, in particular 5% to 20%, better 10% to 20%, better still 15% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the hair-care composition.
The kit may also include a post-treatment composition for hair. The post-treatment composition may be selected from a conditioner, a permanent wave, a straightening composition, a coloring composition, or a bleaching composition for hair. By way of example, the post-treatment composition may be selected from those mentioned above.
The invention can be better understood on reading the following description of non-limiting embodiments thereof, and on examining the accompanying drawings, in which:
The abrasive surface 5 is defined by a medium 7 that is made, in the example described, of a flexible material, such as a non-woven fabric, for example. In the example shown, the abrasive surface 5 includes abrasive particles 8, in particular particles of alumina of hardness equal to 9 on the Mohs scale, which particles are fastened, e.g. adhesively bonded, on the medium 7 to form the abrasive surface 5.
By way of example, the non-abrasive surface 6 is defined by a medium 7 that is identical to the medium of the abrasive surface 5 but without the abrasive particles. The non-abrasive surface 6 in the example described is impregnated with a hair treatment composition.
The hair treatment method may be implemented using the kit 1 of
The operator takes the media 7 between the hands M so as to hold a mesh of hair C captive between the facing abrasive and non-abrasive surfaces 5 and 6, as shown in
The user may then move the hands back-and-forth substantially transversely relative to the hair, so as to abrade the hair C against the surfaces 5 and 6.
The operator may move the media 7 little by little along the hair, e.g. substantially all the way along the mesh of hair C so as to abrade the hair over its entire length, without interrupting the back-and-forth sideways motion. In a variant, the operator may abrade the hair over a portion of the mesh and then move the media 7 along the mesh and repeat the abrading motion, which motion is interrupted while the media 7 are being moved along the hair.
The operator may start from the roots of the hair and go towards the ends.
During the treatment, the hair is smoothed by the abrasive surface 5, while the treatment composition is deposited on the hair by the surface 6.
In a variant, or in addition, the operator may perform longitudinal motion along the hair, e.g. moving the media 7 from the roots of the hair towards the ends.
The operator may perform one or more passages between the roots towards the ends in order to abrade the hair, e.g. 1 to 100 passes, in particular 1 to 10 passes.
By way of example, such motion may be performed using a device as shown in
By way of example, the abrasive surface 5 is of the same type as that described above. By way of example, the surface 6 is non-abrasive and may include flocking. The non-abrasive surface 6 may be impregnated with a treatment composition. In a variant, the operator may pour the treatment composition onto the hair or onto the surface 6 prior to treating the hair.
In this example, at least the medium 7 of the abrasive surface 5 and possibly also the medium of the non-abrasive surface 6 is releasably fastened to the corresponding branch 12, e.g. by means of a hook-and-loop or Velcro® type connection. This enables the media 7 to be replaced between uses.
The clamp may optionally include means arranged for controlling and/or indicating the pressure exerted on the hair, e.g. a spring and a dynamometer.
It would not go beyond the ambit of the invention for the non-abrasive surface 6 to be defined by a foam, an elastomer coating, or some other surface.
As shown, the kit also includes a treatment composition 10 e.g. packaged in a container, e.g. presenting content of 250 mL.
By way of example, the treatment method using the kit 1 of
Optionally, the hair may be moistened before abrasion and the hair may also be rinsed after abrasion, e.g. prior to applying the composition 10.
By way of example, the composition 10 is applied after rinsing the hair and may include an agent for restructuring the insides of hairs, e.g. including a reagent such as a silane.
The kit may also include instructions informing the user how to use the abrasive medium or media for smoothing the hair.
By way of example, the media shown in
In a variant, as shown in
As an alternative to adhesive, the abrasive particles 8 may be dispersed in the medium 7 in the form of a filler, as shown in
The portions in relief may be made by being molded integrally with the medium 7 carrying the abrasive particles, or in a variant with an element that carries the medium 7, e.g. one of the branches of the clamp shown in
When the medium is hard, it may include a structure that is arranged to enable the surface 5 to be abrasive, in particular it may comprise sintered material, as shown in
In a variant, when the medium is hard, the abrasive surface 5 may include roughnesses, e.g. spikes 16 as shown in
The medium or media 7 may be detachably fastened to a hair-care device, e.g. a comb as shown in
The surfaces that come into contact with the hair may form part of two separate media as shown in
In the embodiments shown in
The appliance 100 extends generally along an axis X and includes a handle member 102 and a clamp 103 having two hinged branches 104. On a face facing the other branch, each branch 104 is provided with a medium 107 defining a surface that is to come into contact with the hair.
In the example shown, the branch 104a includes a medium 107 defining an abrasive surface 105, while the branch 104b of the clamp 103 presents a non-abrasive surface 106.
The handle member 102 houses a mechanical system, e.g. including an electric motor (not shown in the figures) suitable for vibrating the abrasive surface 105 in the example described. The abrasive surface(s) may be set into vibration by means of at least one source of vibration housed in the appliance. The appliance is set into motion by pressing on a control button 110.
The frequency of the vibration may be modified by the user using an adjustment knob 111 movable past various graduations 112.
A slider 114 may also serve to select the amplitude of the vibration.
In the example shown, the medium 107 defining the abrasive surface is made of a flexible material, e.g. comprising a woven fabric, having abrasive particles 108 fastened thereto, e.g. by adhesive, e.g. solid alumina particles of spherical shape having hardness equal to 9 on the Mohs scale and having a diameter of about 8 μm. It would not go beyond the ambit of the invention for the abrasive surface 105 to be similar to one of the abrasive surfaces 5 described with reference to
The medium 107 defining the abrasive surface 105 is fastened to the branch 104a, e.g. releasably, e.g. by means of hooks or by means of a Velcro® type fastener so as to enable the medium to be changed, e.g. if the abrasive surface becomes worn after one or more uses. The width of the abrasive surface 5 may lie in the range 1 cm to 5 cm, and its length may lie in the range 1 cm to 10 cm.
The surface 106 does not have abrasive properties, since it does not include abrasive particles.
The surface 106 may be filled with a hair treatment composition. By way of example, the composition may be brought to a dispenser orifice located in the surface 106 or in the proximity thereof, for example, by any means such as gravity, capillarity, or a pump, e.g. an electrical pump or a manual pump driven by the user. In a variant, in order to implement the step of applying a treatment composition in the method of the invention, the user may pour the composition contained in a container of the type shown in
In order to use the appliance of
The branches 104a and 104b of the clamp 103 are moved apart, as shown in
The clamp 103 is reclosed so as to hold the mesh of hair C captive, it being possible for the branches 104a and 104b to be urged towards each other by resilient return action, e.g. coming from the presence of a resilient return member such as a spring.
Optionally after selecting the amplitude of the vibration using the slider 114, the user presses on the button 110 that switches the source on. During abrasion, the user has the option of modifying the amplitude of the vibration.
As shown in
Where appropriate, the appliance may be arranged to enable the user to select the orientation of the vibration.
By way of example, the appliance has two vibration sources serving respectively to vibrate the abrasive surface parallel to the axis X or transversely relative thereto.
The mode of vibration may be selected as a function of the hair, a transverse mode being appropriate for hair that is damaged little, while a longitudinal mode may be appropriate for hair that is very damaged.
In a variant that is not shown, the user may cause the frequency of the vibration to vary, e.g. by acting on the frequency of rotation of a motor driving an eccentric flyweight.
The user may cause the appliance to slide along the mesh for treatment, as shown, or may treat the portion of the mesh of hair that is in contact with the abrasive and non-abrasive surfaces 105 and 106 without moving the appliance, and then open the clamp and reposition the appliance so as to treat another portion of the mesh of hair.
Once the abrasion operation has been completed, the user may rinse the hair in order to remove abrasive particles and/or any deposit that might have been detached from the hair.
The user may subsequently perform any coloring or care treatment on the hair.
The appliance 100 may include a system for sucking up particles and/or deposits, or indeed it may include a liquid-recovery system.
By way of example, and as shown in
If the appliance is used so as to include a step of moistening the hair prior to abrading it, the abrasive particles 108 may be fastened in such a manner as to ensure that they do not separate from the medium 107 on coming into contact with the water or other substance that is used.
In the example of
In order to use the appliance shown in
In the example of
In the embodiment of
In the example shown in
In the method of using one of the appliances shown in
In a variant shown in
In the example of
During the abrasion treatment, the flow rate of the jet of solid particles may be modified. Initially the jet may present a width of about 0.5 cm. This width may optionally be modified during abrasion or prior to abrasion, e.g. so as to adjust the degree of abrasion as a function of the state of the hair. The jet of particles is propelled by a fluid, in particular by compressed air in the example shown. The jet of particles is emitted from a nozzle 205 that is constituted by a single outlet presenting a flat shape (5 mm×2 mm).
By way of example, the solid particles 208 projected onto the hair may be silica particles having a diameter of about 20 μm and hardness of about 7 on the Mohs scale.
Before, after, or during abrasion of the hair, a cosmetic treatment composition is applied to the hair.
In the open, first configuration, the shells 204 are secured to each other via the connection 210, whereas in the second configuration the shells 204 are no longer movable but are positioned one against the other so as to define between them a volume 211 that is open at both ends of the enclosure so as to allow hair to pass through.
In the example shown, the enclosure 202 presents an outside shape that is substantially cylindrical, and the volume 211 presents a cross-section that is of oval shape. It would not go beyond the ambit of the invention if the enclosure 202 were to be of some other shape.
A channel 212 for feeding abrasive solid particles opens out into the volume 211 defined by the shells 204. In this embodiment, the appliance 200 also has a channel 213 serving to suck particles 208 out from the volume 211. These inlet and outlet channels 212 and 213 are housed in a flexible connection 214 connecting the enclosure 202 to the remainder of the appliance (not shown in the drawing). The number of inlet and outlet channels may be greater without going beyond the ambit of the invention. In particular, the appliance may include a plurality of channels 212 for feeding solid particles 208 so as to have greater impact on the hair or so as to provide abrasion that is more effective.
In addition to the enclosure 202 and the channels 212 and 213 housed in the flexible connection 214, the appliance 200 may include a supply of solid abrasive particles 208, a particle suction system comprising a fan, for example, possibly together with a filter, a container for used particles, and a compressor arranged to generate the gas under pressure that acts as a vector for entraining the solid particles 208 from the supply to the volume 211.
The operation of the appliance 200 shown in
The user switches on the appliance 200 so that a jet of solid particles is projected from the channel 212 for feeding particles 208 into the volume 211. The jet of particles projected onto the portion of hair held in the enclosure serves to abrade the hair.
During abrasion, it is possible to modify the volume flow rate or the mass flow rate of the jet.
A suction system comes into operation, e.g. simultaneously, so as to suck up the abrasive particles 208 together with particles or deposits D that are detached from the hair by the abrasion, which particles are directed to a used particle container, where appropriate.
The user has the possibility of moving the enclosure 202 along the mesh of hair held in the enclosure 212, e.g. from the roots to the ends.
The section of the inside volume 211 of the enclosure is not limited to the shape shown in
At least one of the shells 204, and both shells in the example shown in
In the methods implemented using the appliances of
The invention is not limited to the embodiments described.
Hair was treated using a flexible medium consisting of a card sheet including abrasive particles of silica having a diameter of about 20 μm and hardness of 6 on the Mohs scale.
Abrasion was performed mesh by mesh on meshes having a diameter lying in the range about 0.5 cm to about 1 cm.
Three passes were performed longitudinally going from the roots towards the ends on dry hair.
Hairs were taken before and after the abrasion, and they were analyzed using an atomic force microscope (AFM).
It can be seen that the scales E of the treated hair are more regular and less jagged, which may facilitate untangling. Furthermore, after abrasion, there remain practically no raised scales.
The hair then had a conditioning treatment composition applied thereto, which deposited uniformly on the surface of the hairs and/or penetrated effectively into the insides thereof.
Examples with an Abrasive Hair-Care Composition
The other examples described make use of a hair-care composition that includes abrasive particles for the purpose of abrading the hair. A treatment composition in addition to the hair-care composition was also applied to the hair, e.g. before or after abrasion of the hair. In one particular example, the abrasive hair-care composition constituted the treatment composition, with abrasion and application of the treatment composition being performed simultaneously with the hair-care composition in this example.
The proportions are given by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The following hair-care compositions were prepared.
The study was performed on a panel of 20 women: ten women with natural long hair and ten women with sensitized long hair.
10 grams (g) to 15 g of each of these compositions A and B were applied per half-head, composition A being in accordance with the invention and composition B being a control composition.
Application was performed mesh by mesh using two motions for abrading the hair: a first motion referred to as “tangential” motion was substantially parallel to the hair; and a second motion, referred to as “shear” motion was substantially orthogonal to the hair. Both motions were repeated ten times. The hair was combed, then rinsed, and finally blow-dried.
A comparative evaluation was made of the sensory properties of each half-head: one treated using the method of the invention with composition A and the other treated using the control composition B.
The results showed that the side treated using the method of the invention was smoother, more supple, and more uniform than the control side. It was also observed that the method of the invention gave better control over hair volume with fewer small curls. Effects that are particularly remarkable given that the hair was sensitized and thick.
After shampooing five times, the smoothing of the hair was conserved, as was control over volume and regardless of the degree to which the hair was sensitized (natural to highly sensitized).
The protocol for applying the hair-care compositions, abrading the hair, combing, rinsing, and drying the hair was the same as in Example 1, but using compositions A and C.
A comparative evaluation was made of the sensory properties of each half-head: one treated with the method of the invention using composition A containing solid particles of alumina with a mean dimension of 120 μm; and the other treated using a composition B containing solid particles of alumina with a mean dimension of 0.68 μm.
The results show that the side treated with composition A containing alumina “a” particles was smoother, more supple, and more uniform than the side treated with composition C containing alumina “b” particles.
After shampooing five times, the smoothing of the hair was conserved as was control over volume, for hair treated with composition A containing alumina “a” particles.
In this example, the method of the invention was followed by post-treatment of the conditioner type.
The formulations of treatment composition D and of comparative composition E were as follows:
The study was performed on a panel of 20 women: ten women having natural long hair and ten women having sensitized long hair.
10 g to 15 g of each of the treatments were applied per half-head.
The application was performed mesh by mesh in two motions: a “tangential” first motion; and a “shear” second motion. The two motions were repeated ten times. The hair was combed, then rinsed, and finally blow-dried.
After this first treatment of the hair, a conditioner type post-treatment was applied.
Halianthus annuus
This post-treatment was applied to all of the hair and then rinsed. The hair was blow-dried.
The results show that the conditioning, i.e. the smoothing on the side treated with the method of the invention using composition D was more regular from the roots to the ends, lighter, and more natural than the side treated with composition E. The conditioner composition was deposited in appropriate manner leading to roots that were loaded little and ends that were well-groomed. The invention provided good control over hair volume and improves the discipline of the hair. The effects were particularly remarkable on hair that was sensitized and thick.
After shampooing five times, the smoothing of the hair was conserved as was control over volume, regardless of the degree of sensitivity of the hair (natural to highly sensitized).
Examples with Microsanding
In Examples 1 to 3 described below, and as shown in
The appliance 200 had an enclosure 202 of width e 3 cm, enabling hair to be slid through the volume 211 and enabling abrasive powder to be sucked up after impacting against the mesh of hair by means of a suction system 232.
A small metal grid 231 supported the hair to prevent it from being sucked up.
Abrasive particles in powder form were delivered by a stream of compressed air at a rate of about 1 liter per second (L/s). The nozzle 205 presented a diameter of about 1.7 mm.
The mesh of hair was slid through the enclosure 202 at a speed of about 1 centimeter per second (cm/s).
In this example, so-called “angular” abrasive particles of trademark Arena, referenced ABC 220 were used, consisting in white corundum of size lying in the range 50 μm to 70 μm.
This treatment was applied to sensitized hair.
In this example, the abrasive particles used were round, in the form of glass microbeads (trademark Arena, reference ABV 05; diameter lying in the range 45 μm to 89 μm approximately).
The abrasion treatment was applied to natural hair, before styling. Treatment was applied in particular to meshes at the front. Then, after a final rinse, styling was performed using hair spray (Elnett Satin). The hair was easier to keep in shape.
The third example was performed using angular type metal abrasive particles (trademark Arena, reference P 300 3, of dimensions lying in the range 200 μm to 500 μm).
The abrasion treatment was performed on hair that was gray and greasy. After treatment, the hair was washed and then brown coloring (Majirel 3.0) was applied thereto. A high intensity color effect was then obtained.
A sander 30 was used of trademark “SD2”, referenced DA 15301 from the supplier Henry Schein, article code 886-9361.
It was set up in the same configuration as for the above examples.
The abrasive particles 8 comprised an aluminum oxide powder with a mean dimension of 50 μm.
The sander 30 was also fed with compressed air by a compressor (not shown) delivering about 50 milliliters per second (mL/s) of air.
The nozzle could be swiveled.
Sensitized hair was then treated as in Example 1.
The term “comprising a” should be understood as being synonymous with the term “comprising at least one”, and the term “lying in the range” should be understood as including the limits given, unless specified to the contrary.
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| 08 53595 | May 2008 | FR | national |
| 08 53597 | May 2008 | FR | national |
This application is a continuation of application Ser. No. 12/995,073 filed Jan. 21, 2001, which is a U.S. national stage application of PCT/FR09/51024 filed May 29, 2009 and is a non-provisional application of Application No. 61/103,722 filed Oct. 8, 2008 and Application No. 61/129,523 filed Jul. 2, 2008.
| Number | Date | Country | |
|---|---|---|---|
| 61103722 | Oct 2008 | US | |
| 61129523 | Jul 2008 | US |
| Number | Date | Country | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Parent | 12995073 | Jan 2011 | US |
| Child | 14861276 | US |
