The present invention relates to devices having an application member that is able to create a cooling or heating feeling on keratin materials.
The expression “cosmetic product” is understood to mean any composition as defined in Council Directive 93/35/EEC of 14 Jun. 1993.
In order to create a cooling feeling, the application FR 2 894 460 proposes using an application member which is cooled by being placed beforehand in a refrigerator or freezer or by being exposed to expansion of a compressed or liquefied gas or to an endothermic reaction.
The patent U.S. Pat No. 3,750,255 teaches using the thermal effusivity of an applicator ball in order to create a cooling feeling on application. An example is given with a solid steel ball having a diameter of 32 mm and a weight of 141 grams. The drawback of such a device is its weight, since in addition to the weight of the ball there is that of the container containing the product to be applied. The cost of the device may also be relatively high on account of the quantity of metal employed.
The patent application FR 2 915 972 relates to a dispenser having an end piece for storing heat, said end piece being made of a metal material such as Zamac®, the mass of which is between about 0.3 and 0.6 gram. Such a weight can prove to be too low for getting a sufficient cooling feeling.
The patent application FR 2 954 936 relates to a dispenser having an end piece for storing heat, said end piece being made of a metal material such as Zamac®, the mass of which is greater than 4 grams. Such a weight can also prove to be too low for getting a lasting cooling feeling.
The patent application WO2008/151260 discloses a Peltier effect device that is able to create a cooling or heating feeling on the skin or on an area of the body. Said document does not provide for the use of the device for treating the hair. It also does not provide for the use of the device for treating narrow areas of the body with precision.
There is a need to further improve the prior art devices so as to have a device:
Furthermore, there is a need for miniaturized appliances that are able to provide a cooling or heating feeling while producing a mechanical effect such as a massage.
The invention aims to meet this need and achieves this by virtue of a device for the cosmetic treatment of human keratin materials, having:
an application surface,
the application surface having an area of between 50 and 200 mm2, better still between 70 and 150 mm2, and
the handpiece being designed to generate a thermal amplitude of greater than or equal to 5° C. between the keratin materials and the application surface for a duration of at least 5 minutes, in particular a thermal amplitude of greater than or equal to 20° C. for a duration of at least 5 minutes.
Preferably, the handpiece is designed to generate a thermal amplitude of less than or equal to 100° C. between the keratin materials and the application surface for a duration of at least 5 minutes, in particular a thermal amplitude of less than or equal to 60° C. for a duration of at least 5 minutes.
The device according to the invention is a miniaturized device that is capable of generating a cooling or heating feeling and has a precise application surface. The latter is specifically designed for the cosmetic treatment of limited areas such as the scalp, the roots of the hair and the periocular area. This device is also easy to handle. It is also easy to transport.
Advantageously, the device according to the invention has at least one Peltier module.
The Peltier effect (also known as the thermoelectric effect) is a physical phenomenon relating to the movement of heat in the presence of an electric current. The Peltier effect is known per se. Conductors having different natures that are connected by junctions (contacts) are produced in the materials. One of the junctions cools while the other heats up. An electric current I is applied to the circuit, by placing for example a source of electric current between the materials, this causing heat to be released at one junction and heat to be absorbed at the other junction.
The name “Peltier module” is given to the assembly formed by the conductive materials and the junctions connecting them.
According to the invention, the “surface of the Peltier module” is understood to be the surface of the Peltier module that is located facing the application surface.
More advantageously, the ratio between the application surface of the device and the surface of the Peltier module is strictly greater than 1, preferably between 1.02 and 2.
By choosing this surface ratio, the excess energy generated by the Peltier effect can be emitted rapidly out of the device. Specifically, the excess energy generated by the Peltier effect is dissipated at the surface of the application member.
Thus, any overheating or excessive cooling is avoided. The thermal effect can last for longer. Internal short circuits are avoided. The consumer perceives a uniform and pleasant feeling of heat or cold. This feeling is more or less uniform over all of the keratin materials in contact with the application surface.
Advantageously, the device according to the invention has at least one radiator. Thus, the dissipation of the heat is optimized.
According to the invention, the Peltier effect is ensured between an internal mass and the application member.
Advantageously, the weight ratio between the internal mass and the application member is between 1 and 15, preferably between 3 and 12, and more preferably between 5 and 10.
The advantages associated with the choice of such a mass ratio are:
By choosing an application member that is lighter than the internal mass, the cold and heat migrate better to the application surface. They are also generated with a sufficient reserve.
In accordance with the invention, the mass of the application member is advantageously between 2 grams and 5 grams, preferably between 2.1 grams and 4.5 grams, and more preferably between 2.2 grams and 4 grams.
More advantageously, the mass of the internal mass is advantageously between 12 grams and 25 grams, preferably between 15 grams and 22 grams, and more preferably between 16 grams and 19 grams. The emission of heat is optimized in these ranges of weights.
According to the invention, provision is made of a device that is capable of producing a sufficient cooling or heating feeling associated with the very structure of the device.
The expression “application surface” is understood to mean the surface that comes into contact with the keratin materials during application and which can carry a product. The application surface may for example be a front face of the application member when the device is viewed along the longitudinal axis.
The “thermal amplitude” represents a difference in temperatures in terms of absolute value. It is denoted δT. This difference in temperature corresponds to the difference, in terms of absolute value, between the temperature of the keratin materials treated and the application surface.
In order to determine the temperature of the keratin materials before and after they are brought into contact with the application surface of the device, use can be made of a thermal probe or an infrared camera.
Advantageously, the handpiece has a module for stabilizing the temperature of the application surface for at least 20 minutes. Thus, the user can benefit from a sufficient duration of the cooling or heating feeling.
More advantageously, the handpiece has a module for stabilizing the temperature of the application surface for at least 60 minutes.
The application surface generally comprises an inorganic material. The latter may be chosen from metals, ceramics and glass, in particular metalized ceramics or glass.
The application surface may be produced at least partially, or even entirely, from a metal material.
The metal may be chosen from steel, stainless steel, aluminum, copper, silver, iron and alloys. The application member may be plated with another metal.
The material may be predominantly in a non-oxidized form.
The application surface may be completely inert from a chemical point of view with respect to the products and keratin materials.
The application surface may be covered with a varnish.
The application surface may be polished.
The application member may have a biocidal material, for example silver or copper, on its surface. Such a metal may be deposited in the form of a thin layer.
According to a first embodiment of the invention, the application surface is smooth. In this case, the device is particularly suitable for attenuating surface defects of an area of the body. It can in particular serve to temporarily attenuate lines or wrinkles on the body. Moreover, the distribution of heat or cold is homogeneous at every point of the surface of the body treated. This homogeneity is particularly appreciable if the device is used with a cosmetic product.
According to a second embodiment of the invention, the application surface has at least one raised element. In this case, the device may also serve to massage a chosen area of the body.
The raised element may in particular be chosen from spikes, balls and rollers.
The raised elements may themselves be smooth or have complementary raised areas.
Alternatively, the raised elements may be removable. It is thus possible to change the raised elements of the device, for example in order to modify their dimensions, their surface properties, or else their roughness.
The raised elements may comprise a thermoplastic material of the acrylic type, cellulose type, polycarbonate type, polyamide type, styrene type, polyolefin type, vinyl type or polyethylene terephthalate type and mixtures of said materials in a variable proportion, which are expanded or not expanded. The raised elements may also comprise one or more thermoplastic resins or one or more metals.
Advantageously, the device has a single Peltier module. All of the raised elements are in contact with the same Peltier module.
Thus, the device is less expensive and the emission of heat is controlled better.
The application member may be snap-fastened onto the handpiece. The application member may have an annular groove formed by machining, said groove being snap-fitted onto an annular bulge or an annular lip of the handpiece.
As a variant, the application member may be adhesively bonded to or snugly fitted onto the handpiece, or be fixed in some other way.
Advantageously, the handpiece has a mass of less than 100 grams, preferably less than 80 grams. In this case, it is easy for any person to handle.
According to a first embodiment of the device, the handpiece is designed to generate heat at the application surface.
According to a second embodiment of the device, the handpiece is designed to generate cold at the application surface.
According to a third embodiment of the device, the handpiece is designed to generate heat or cold at the application surface, depending on the user's wishes. In general, the user can select heat or cold by means of a control button provided for this purpose.
The device according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a satisfactory cooling or heating feeling for the user. Cooling can have a decongestant and relaxing effect, being advantageously used during the application of a cosmetic product in order to improve the application of the product, in particular the comfort of application and the treating or makeup effect of the product. Heating can provide a feeling of well-being. It may also promote the penetration of some cosmetic active agents.
Advantageously, the handpiece is designed to be held between three fingers of one hand. The device is ergonomic. The user can use it for regions that are difficult to access. For example, the device can have the form of a pen.
More advantageously, the handpiece is configured such that the application surface reaches a temperature defined by the user in less than one minute. The device is thus rapidly operational.
Even more advantageously, the handpiece has an elongate shape, in particular a cylindrical shape. This geometry is especially suitable for the face, the scalp and the hair.
A further subject of the invention, according to another of its aspects, independently or in combination with the foregoing, is a cosmetic process comprising the employment of a device as described above. Preferably, in the process according to the invention:
The process according to the invention can be employed for any surface of the body such as the skin of the face, the skin of the body, the scalp (moisturizing, hair loss, sensitive scalp) and the hair (relaxing, dyeing or bleaching treatment of the roots).
Depending on the area treated or the effect desired, the device will be used to generate heating or cooling. In particular:
The process according to the invention may comprise, in particular, the application of a cosmetic composition to the surface of the body.
Use will be made, in particular:
If the device according to the invention is used to apply heat, a hair dyeing composition can in particular be applied to one or more locks of hair. In this case, the process according to the invention advantageously comprises the steps:
More particularly, the device of the invention is brought into contact with the keratin materials to be treated, in particular with the lock of hair to which the dyeing composition has been applied beforehand, for at least 2 minutes, preferably at least 4 minutes and more preferably at least 6 minutes.
The cosmetic compositions may also contain at least one cosmetic agent such as, for example, reducing agents, oxidizing agents, fatty substances, silicones, thickeners, softeners, antifoams, moisturizers, emollients, basifying agents, plasticizers, sunscreens, direct dyes or oxidation dyes, pigments, mineral fillers, clays, mineral colloids, nacres, fragrances, peptizers, preserving agents, anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic or nonionic surfactants, fixing or nonfixing polymers, conditioning polymers, proteins and vitamins.
These agents are generally present in the composition used within the scope of the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The cosmetic compositions of the invention may be in various galenical forms, such as a lotion, a spray, a foam, a cream, a gel, a hair conditioner or a shampoo.
When the composition is used for washing and/or conditioning keratin materials, in particular the hair, it may be used in rinsed mode or non-rinsed mode.
It is also possible to use the device according to the invention to generate heating or cooling, before and/or after composition treatment, in particular for the scalp and the hair.
The invention relates in particular to a process for the pretreatment or post-treatment of keratin materials, consisting in using the device according to the invention before or after a hair dyeing or hair-root dyeing, hair bleaching or hair-root bleaching, hair permanent-waving, hair relaxing, hair regrowth, hair care or hair root care and hair conditioning treatment.
The invention also relates to a process for the pretreatment or post-treatment of the skin of the body, of the face or of the scalp, consisting in using the device according to the invention before or after a hair regrowth, care or makeup treatment.
A further subject of the invention, according to another of its aspects, independently or in combination with the foregoing, is a cosmetic kit comprising:
Advantageously, the composition is chosen from:
Advantageously, in the kit according to the invention, the cosmetic composition is a hair composition for dyeing the hair or a composition for the scalp.
The product for the skin is for example a makeup and/or care product, in particular an eye contour product, a concealer, or a product for the lips, for example a lipstick, a lip gloss or a care product for the lips.
The invention may be better understood from reading the following detailed description of nonlimiting illustrative embodiments thereof and from examining the appended drawings, in which:
A device according to the invention is illustrated in
The device has:
In the example shown, the heat or cold is generated by the Peltier effect.
The handpiece 1 has a cylindrical shape. It can be held between three fingers of one hand.
The electrical assembly 2 is housed entirely in the handpiece 1.
It has:
The electrical assembly 1 is actuated by a switch 52.
The Peltier effect is obtained between a copper internal mass 5 and the aluminum application member 3 for example.
The application surface 4 has an approximately planar overall shape in the example described but may have some other shape.
The application surface 4 has an area of around 6 cm2 for example. Of course, if the area of the application surface is more or less extensive, being for example between 50 and 200 mm2, this does not depart from the scope of the present invention.
In the example described, the application surface 4 is in the form of a convex bezel which is inclined at an angle of for example between 30 and 70° with respect to the longitudinal axis X of the device.
A largest transverse dimension T of the application member 3, for example a diameter, may be between 7 and 20 mm.
The application surface 4 has an area of around 6 cm2.
The application member 3 is made of a first inorganic material, for example stainless steel. The choice of such a material makes it possible to ensure a cooling or heating effect on application.
This effect is also ensured by the fact that the application member 3 is in contact with an internal mass 5 that is made overwhelmingly of a second inorganic material. This is a heat- or cold-conducting material. In the example in question, it is copper.
According to the invention, the internal mass 5 ensures a sufficiently long cooling or heating effect at the application surface 4. This effect must be able to be felt by the user for a duration of greater than 5 minutes, or even greater than 20 minutes, and even better still greater than one hour.
The internal mass 5 is in the form of a cylinder of revolution. Its diameter may be between 1 cm and 1.5 cm. Its height may be around 1.6 cm.
The surface of the Peltier module may have a size of between 0.785 cm2 and 1.7 cm2.
The ratio between the application surface 4 and the surface of the Peltier module is greater than 1.
The weight of the internal mass 5 is for example around 17 grams.
In the example shown, the weight ratio between the internal mass 5 and the mass of the application member 3 may be equal to around 7.
The application member 3 is force-fitted onto the handpiece 1. It may be engaged with the handpiece 1 by any other means, for example by snap-fastening, clip-fastening or adhesive bonding.
In
In the examples which have just been described, the application surface 4 is inclined with respect to a longitudinal axis X of the device, and this can make application easier. Moreover, the application surface 4 may be slightly convex, and beveled at its periphery.
The handpiece 1 may have a thread so as to engage with a closure cap of the device, which is not visible in
In order to use the device of the invention, the handpiece 1 is grasped. The surface 4 is positioned in front of a chosen area of the body. The cooling of this area is started manually, for example by the user pressing the push button 53. The handpiece 1 is for example moved over the chosen keratin materials so as to progressively cool a larger surface.
The keratin materials may have been coated beforehand with a cosmetic product.
The keratin materials may be a lock of hair or the scalp for example.
In the case of a lock of hair, a dyeing product may be applied beforehand. In the case of the scalp, a hair product for promoting hair regrowth may be applied beforehand.
Of course, the invention is not limited to the examples illustrated.
It is possible for example to use other materials to produce the application member 3, for example other metals such as copper, silver, alloys and possibly a metal plated with a second metal.
It is also possible to use other materials to produce the internal mass 5. The application surface may have a surface with a different size or shape. The expression “having a” should be understood as being synonymous with “having at least one”.
The device from
Two measurements are possible:
1) Measurement of the rate and the kinetics of penetration of an active agent into the skin by microdialysis and assaying of the active agent.
2) Measurement of the quantity of active agents in the surface layers of the skin by taking strip specimens and assaying the active agent.
Tests were carried out on an area treated with a formulation in combination with the device compared with an area treated with the same formulation without a device.
The protocol used was as follows:
The dialysis measurement is obtained by the prior insertion of probes into the skin and is repeated 3 times per area over an overall surface of around 20 cm2.
The assays at the surface of the skin are carried out on 20 specimens of strips.
a) The tests showed the positive effects of the combination of the formulation and the device on the speed of penetration of the caffeine:
b) The tests showed the positive effects of the combination of the formulation with the device generating heating on the quantity of caffeine penetrating into the skin:
A total of 19 strips were made, which correspond to the stratum corneum. These show that with the device producing heating, all of the caffeine penetrated, while in the control group caffeine was still detected (3.17 μg/mL±0.99).
The same device is used as in example 1.
In order to evaluate the activity of the heat on the dye, use was made of an oxidation dye Majirel® from L'Oreal, shade 6.62 with a 9-volume oxidant on natural white hair with 90% white.
The device was used at a constant temperature of 56° C. and the locks were placed on a plate thermostatically maintained at 33° C. throughout the treatment.
Each lock was separated into two. Half of the lock was treated with the device according to different applications and the other half acted as a control.
Different applications and a control were carried out:
It was observed that the device makes it possible to activate the dye on the hair. Specifically, for the same leave-on time, the color between the halves of the lock is significantly different between the control half of the lock and the half of the lock that was treated with the device according to the invention.
The following aqueous-alcoholic solution of Tween 21® was applied to an area of the inside of the arm and an area of the scalp:
20%
(SM stands for “raw material”).
Each area was divided into three parts 100, 101 and 102.
The temperature of each part 100, 101 and 102 was measured.
This temperature measurement was carried out with an infrared camera.
On each part, the color makes it possible to determine the temperature of the scalp. The lighter the color, the higher the temperature. The darker the color, the lower the temperature.
It is observed that:
It follows that the device according to the invention, generating cooling, activates cooling of the scalp in combination with a soothing active agent.
The following is observed:
It follows that the device according to the invention generating cooling, in combination with a soothing composition, has the effect of stimulating the soothing of the scalp compared with the same composition used on its own. The same effect was observed on the skin on the inside of the arm.
Number | Date | Country | Kind |
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1358953 | Sep 2013 | FR | national |
Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind |
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PCT/EP2014/069617 | 9/15/2014 | WO | 00 |